Composition for scalp care containing lipophilic solid activator, monoalcohol and hydrophilic thickener

Abstract

To provide a composition containing solid components, intended for scalp care, being stable and free of oiliness.SOLUTION: The present invention provides a stable composition for scalp care, comprising (a) at least one lipophilic solid activator, (b) at least one 2-6C monoalcohol, and (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for the scalp, comprising at least one lipophilic solid active agent, at least one monoalcohol and at least one hydrophilic thickener. [Background technology]

[0002] In the field of hair / scalp cosmetics, active agents are generally included in the composition to obtain care effects. To obtain improved care effects, solid-type active agents can be used. Generally, solid-type active agents are formulated in emulsion cosmetics, for example, in creams, to obtain stable formulations. However, for hair / scalp cosmetics, consumers generally prefer non-greasy formulations.

[0003] Thus, there is a need for stable, non-greasy formulations containing cosmetic solid ingredients for hair / scalp care products. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0004] [Patent Document 1] US4131576 [Patent Document 2] EP503853 [Patent Document 3] US3,915,921 [Patent Document 4] US4,509,949 [Patent Document 5] WO 00 / 31154 [Patent Document 6] WO 98 / 44012 [Patent Document 7] US-A-5364633 [Patent Document 8] US-A-5411744 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0005] It is an object of the present invention to provide a stable, non-greasy composition for caring for the scalp, which comprises solid ingredients. [Means for solving the problem]

[0006] The above object of the present invention is to provide a composition for caring for the scalp, comprising: (a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent; (b) at least one monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms; (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener; This can be achieved by a composition comprising:

[0007] (a) The lipophilic solid active agent may be an organic compound.

[0008] (a) The lipophilic solid active agent may be an active agent for the skin and / or scalp.

[0009] (a) The lipophilic solid active agent may be selected from anti-ageing active agents for the skin and / or scalp, and active agents having anti-free radical properties, or free radical scavengers.

[0010] The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be selected from retinol (vitamin A) and derivatives such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes including beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, vitamin Ds, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, organic acid esters, and unsaponifiables having cosmetic and / or dermatological properties including tocotrienols, sesamin, phytosterols, squalene, waxes and terpenes, preferably the (a) powdered active agent is selected from organic acid esters selected from ethyl ferulate, oryzanol, in particular gamma-oryzanol.

[0011] (c) The hydrophilic thickener may be selected from gums.

[0012] (c) The hydrophilic thickener may comprise a combination of at least two types of hydrophilic thickeners.

[0013] The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The (b) monoalcohol may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by mass, preferably from 3% to 30% by mass, and more preferably from 5% to 25% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0015] The hydrophilic thickener may be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The compositions may also be in non-emulsion form, such as solutions, particularly aqueous solutions, and serums.

[0017] The composition may be a leave-on cosmetic composition.

[0018] The composition may contain the oil in an amount in the range of 0% to 5% by mass, preferably 0% to 0.5% by mass, and more preferably 0% to 0.1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0019] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for or conditioning the scalp, comprising the step of applying on the hair and / or scalp a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0020] After extensive investigation, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that a combination of (a) a lipophilic solid active agent, (b) a monoalcohol, and (c) a hydrophilic thickener can provide stability to a composition even when it does not contain a significant amount of oil, thus completing the present invention.

[0021] Therefore, the composition for caring for the scalp according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent; (b) at least one monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms; (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener; Includes.

[0022] Hereinafter, the compositions according to the invention will be described in detail.

[0023] [Composition] The composition for caring for the scalp according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent, (b) at least one monoalcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener.

[0024] The composition according to the invention can be used as a composition for conditioning and / or caring for the scalp.

[0025] The compositions according to the invention may take a variety of forms, such as solutions, gels, lotions, serums, suspensions, dispersions, fluids, emulsions, pastes, creams, foams, etc. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are in non-emulsion form, such as solutions, particularly aqueous solutions, and serums.

[0026] The compositions used according to the present invention are preferably intended to be used as leave-on (or leave-in) type cosmetic compositions. The term "leave-on" means a composition that is not intended to be washed / rinsed off or removed immediately after application. Leave-on compositions are different from rinse-off type compositions that are intended to be rinsed off after use on keratinous materials.

[0027] The components contained in the composition according to the present invention are described in detail below.

[0028] (Lipophilic solid surfactant) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent. Two or more (a) lipophilic solid active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of lipophilic solid active agent or a combination of different types of lipophilic solid active agents may be used.

[0029] The term "lipophilic" is used herein to mean a lipid permeability at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 "Soluble in oil" refers to a substance that is soluble in oil at a concentration of at least 1% by weight (at 1000 MPa, 1000 Pa) based on the total weight of the oil.

[0030] The term "solid" means that the material is solid at 25° C. under 1 atmosphere.

[0031] (a) The lipophilic solid active agent may be in the form of a powder.

[0032] The term "powder" as used herein should be understood to mean particles of any shape that are insoluble in the medium of the composition, in particular in water.

[0033] (a) The lipophilic solid active agents may be of any shape, regardless of the crystalline form (e.g. lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.), and may be platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong.

[0034] The average particle size of lipophilic solid active agent is not limited, but generally is 50 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 10 μm or less. The average particle size of lipophilic solid active agent may be 0.01 μm or more, preferably 0.1 μm or more. The term "average particle size" used herein refers to the number average particle size given by statistical particle size distribution for half of the population, and is referred to as D50. For example, the number average particle size can be measured by laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.

[0035] (a) The lipophilic solid active agent may be a water-insoluble active agent.

[0036] The term "water-insoluble" as used herein means water-insoluble at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 This term refers to substances that are soluble in water at a concentration of less than 0.1% by weight, specifically less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of water (at 1000 Pa).

[0037] (a) The lipophilic solid active agent may be chosen from cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents, in particular active agents for the skin and / or scalp.

[0038] (a) The lipophilic solid active agent may be selected from skin and / or scalp care active agents, such as anti-aging active agents for the skin and / or scalp, and active agents having anti-free radical properties, or free radical scavengers.

[0039] In particular, the (a) lipophilic solid active agent of the present invention may be a cosmetic and / or dermatological lipophilic and / or water-insoluble active agent, in particular a lipophilic and water-insoluble active agent selected from anti-ageing active agents, and active agents having anti-free radical properties, or free radical scavengers.

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the (a) lipophilic solid active agent of the present invention comprises an organic compound. The (a) lipophilic solid active agent of the present invention may be an organic compound.

[0041] (a) It may be preferred that the molecular weight of the organic compound forming the lipophilic solid active agent is 150 or more, preferably 300 or more, more preferably 450 or more, and / or 3,000 or less, preferably 2,000 or less, more preferably 1,000 or less.

[0042] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the organic compound forming the (a) lipophilic solid active agent is in the range of 150 to 3,000, preferably 300 to 2,000, and more preferably 450 to 1,000.

[0043] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" may mean number average molecular weight.

[0044] (a) As regards lipophilic solid active agents, those which may be used are retinol (vitamin A) and derivatives, such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes, including beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate, vitamin Ds, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glyceride, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, organic acid esters, and unsaponifiable substances having cosmetic and / or dermatological properties, such as tocotrienols, sesamin, phytosterols, squalene, waxes and terpenes.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) lipophilic solid active agent is an organic acid ester, specifically represented by the formula (I):

[0046] [ka]

[0047] [In formula (I), R 1 , R 4 and R 5 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, R 2represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy; R 3 represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6) alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; R 6 teeth, i) (C1-C6) alkyl, preferably (C1-C4) alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl; ii) (C1~C 10 ) Alkyl, (C2-C 10 ) cycloalkyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, and iii) Glycosyl represents a group selected from or a geometric isomer thereof, an organic or inorganic acid or base salt thereof, or a solvate thereof, particularly a hydrate.

[0048] (C x ~C z A (C1-C6) alkyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from x to z carbon atoms, for example, a (C1-C6) alkyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0049] (C x ~C z An alkenyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing x to z carbon atoms and containing one or more conjugated or non-conjugated unsaturations, preferably only one unsaturation. For example, (C2 to C 10 ) An alkenyl group represents a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and containing one or more unsaturations.

[0050] (C x~C z ) alkoxy group is -O-(C x -C z ) an alkyl group [wherein (C x ~C z ) alkyl groups are as previously defined.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, in formula (I), R 6 represents the (C1-C6) alkyl group i) defined above.

[0052] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (I), R 6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, non-aromatic monocyclic cycloalkyl group ii) containing 5 to 7 carbon atoms and optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C4)alkyl groups and / or with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl.

[0053] In particular, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl, optionally substituted with one to five hydroxyl and / or carboxyl groups. In particular, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl and optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl. More particularly, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl, optionally substituted with one to five hydroxyl and / or carboxyl groups.

[0054] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (I), R 6represents a polycyclic cycloalkyl group ii) which preferably contains between 2 and 5 fused rings, contains 12 to 32 carbon atoms and is optionally substituted; in particular, cycloalkyl is a polycyclic group containing between 4 and 5 fused rings, the rings being 3-, 5- or 6-membered and containing 16 to 20 carbon atoms, even better still 17 or 18 carbon atoms, and the cycloalkyl is one or more linear or branched (C1-C 10 ) alkyl group or linear or branched (C2-C 10 ) alkenyl groups, optionally substituted.

[0055] Preferably, the organic acid ester is represented by formula (I): R 1 , R 4 and R 5 represents a hydrogen atom, R 2 represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy; R 3 represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6) alkoxy group, R 6 represents i) a group selected from (C1-C6) alkyl, preferably (C1-C4) alkyl, and also its geometric isomers, organic or inorganic acids or base salts thereof, and solvates thereof, for example hydrates] It is of the following.

[0056] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the ester of formula (I) has the formula (I'):

[0057] [ka]

[0058] [In formula (I'), R 6 is defined above, R 7 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group. It is of the following.

[0059] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester is more particularly represented by formula (I′), 6 represents a (C1-C6) alkyl group and preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably an ethyl group; R 7 represents a (C1-C6) alkyl group and preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably a methyl group.

[0060] According to this embodiment, ethyl ferulate is preferred.

[0061] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester is more particularly represented by formula (I′), 6 represents a saturated monocyclic cycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups, preferably between 1 and 4 groups selected from hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, R 7 is a hydrogen atom.

[0062] According to this embodiment, chlorogenic acid is preferred.

[0063] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester is more particularly represented by the formula (I′) 6 is at least one, preferably at least two (C1-C4) alkyl groups, preferably ethyl, and at least one, preferably one branched (C8-C 10 ) alkenyl group or (C8-C 10 ) a polycyclic group containing between 3 and 5 saturated fused rings, containing between 16 and 20 carbon atoms, substituted with an alkyl group, R 7 is a (C1-C6) alkyl group and preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably a methyl group.

[0064] The compounds of formula (I) and formula (I') according to the invention are preferably selected from natural compounds or compounds of natural origin. They are preferably "green" compounds.

[0065] Particular examples of esters of formula (I) or formula (I') that may be mentioned are methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, chlorogenic acid, isopropyl ferulate or ferulic acid esters of sterols, such as oryzanol, especially gamma-oryzanol. According to another embodiment, oryzanol, especially gamma-oryzanol, is particularly preferred.

[0066] The compounds of formula (I) and formula (I') may be obtained via any method known to one skilled in the art.

[0067] For example, ferulic acid esters can be obtained by esterification of ferulic acid, which can itself be obtained by biosynthesis, for example via methoxylation of caffeic acid using the enzyme caffeic acid-O-methyltransferase, or by extraction from plant extracts, in particular wheat germ, using concentrated bases, such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.

[0068] Gamma-oryzanol can be obtained, inter alia, from rice bran by extraction with organic solvents.

[0069] A number of compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') are also commercially available, such as gamma-oryzanol available under the trade name Oryzanol® from Tsuno Foods Co., Ltd., Gamma Oryzanol® from Ikeda Rika Co., Ltd., or Oryzanolgamma V® from Ichimaru Pharcos Co., Ltd., ethyl ferulate available under the reference Ethyl Ferulate, Natural or COS from Gfn Selco, also available from Sigma-Aldrich, and chlorogenic acid available under the reference Eucommia Leaves Extract Chlorogenic Acid 98% by Guilin Layn Natural Ingredients.

[0070] Preferably, (a) the lipophilic solid active agent is selected from organic acid esters selected from ethyl ferulate, oryzanol, and in particular gamma-oryzanol.

[0071] The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be present in a content of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, more preferably at least 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be present in a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 3% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] (Monoalcohol) The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one monoalcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms. Two or more types of monoalcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monoalcohol or a combination of different types of monoalcohols may be used.

[0075] (b) The monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms may be water-soluble. The term "water-soluble" is used herein to mean a water-soluble monoalcohol at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 The term "alcohol" refers to alcohol that can be dissolved in 100 mL of water at 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more at 100 mL (at 200 MPa).

[0076] The monoalcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and having only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.

[0077] The monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0078] The term "aliphatic monoalcohol" as used herein means any straight-chain or branched, saturated alkane compound having only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.

[0079] The aliphatic monoalcohol present in the composition of the present invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be selected from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] The amount of (b) monoalcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0082] The amount of (b) monoalcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, more preferably 25% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0083] The amount of (b) monoalcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably from 3% by mass to 30% by mass, and more preferably from 5% by mass to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0084] (hydrophilic thickener) The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener. Two or more types of hydrophilic thickeners may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic thickener or a combination of different types of hydrophilic thickeners may be used.

[0085] The term "hydrophilic" as used herein refers to the degree of hydrophilicity at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 "Water-soluble" refers to a substance that is soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by mass or more based on the total mass of water (at 1 Pa).

[0086] The hydrophilic thickening agent is preferentially chosen from thickening polymers having saccharide units, such as non-associative thickening polymers having saccharide units, non-associative thickening polymers without saccharide units, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0088] The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0089] The sugar units which may be included in the composition of the hydrophilic thickening polymer of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0090] Preferably the thickening agent is selected from polysaccharides.

[0091] Among the thickening polymers containing sugar units that may be mentioned in particular are the natural gums such as: a) Tree or shrub exudates, including: - gum arabic (a branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid), - Ghatti gum (a polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid), - karaya gum (a polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid), - tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (a polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose), b) Gums obtained from algae, including: - agar (a polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose), - alginates (polymers of mannuronic and glucuronic acid), - Carrageenan and Furcellan (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate), c) Gums obtained from seeds or tubers, including: - guar gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose), - locust bean gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose), - Fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose), - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose), - Konjac gum (a polymer of glucose and mannose), d) microbial gums, including: - Xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid), - gellan gum (a partially acylated polymer of glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer), e) Plant extracts containing: - cellulose (glucose polymer), - Starch (glucose polymer) and - Inulin.

[0092] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. Physical treatments can include, inter alia, temperature.

[0093] Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments may in particular lead to polymers that may be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0094] Preferably, the thickening polymer having saccharide units is not chemically or physically treated.

[0095] The non-ionic guar gum that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0096] Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0097] These guar gums are well known in the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxide, such as propylene oxide, with guar gum to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0098] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present in the guar gum.

[0099] Such non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0100] Among the starches that may be used, mention may be made of macromolecules in the form of polymers that contain base units, for example anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (a linear polymer) and amylopectin (a branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, may vary depending on the plant origin of the starch.

[0101] The plant origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be a cereal or tuber, so that the starch is, for example, selected from maize starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0102] Starch may be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0103] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphates will be used with preference, examples being the products sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassavani starch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassavani starch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassavani starch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or under the reference Structure Zea (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate) by the company National Starch.

[0104] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, which contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be attached to the same or different reactive sites of the starch molecule, and they are preferably attached to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphoric or sulfuric acid type, preferably of the carboxylic acid type. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0105] The starch molecules may be derived from any vegetable starch source, in particular from corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the starches listed above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0106] The starch may optionally be C1-C6 hydroxyalkylated or C1-C6 acylated (e.g. acetylated). The starch may also be subjected to a heat treatment.

[0107] The non-associative thickening polymers of the present invention have in their structure 10 ~C 30 It may be a cellulosic polymer that does not contain fatty chains.

[0108] According to the present invention, the term "cellulosic polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted cellulose, the cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

[0109] Thus, the cellulose polymers that may be used according to the invention may be selected from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0110] Among these cellulosic polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are well known.

[0111] Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic esters of cellulose (such as cellulose nitrate, cellulose sulfate, cellulose phosphate), organic cellulose esters (such as cellulose monoacetate, cellulose triacetate, cellulose amidopropionate, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate propionate and cellulose acetate trimellitate), and mixed organic / inorganic esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetate sulfate butyrate and cellulose acetate propionate. Among the cellulose ester ethers, there may be mentioned hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalate and ethylcellulose sulfate.

[0112] C 10 ~C 30Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers which do not contain fatty chains, i.e. are "non-associative", there may be mentioned (C1-C4) alkyl celluloses, such as methyl cellulose and ethyl cellulose (e.g. Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g. Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g. Klucel EF from Aqualon); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkyl(C1-C4) alkyl mixed celluloses, such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (e.g. Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical); hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose.

[0113] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without fatty chains, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C1-C4) alkylcelluloses and their salts. Examples include carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylmethylcellulose (for example Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, as well as the sodium salts thereof.

[0114] Among the cationic cellulose ethers not having fatty chains, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose copolymers or derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers and described in detail in US 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcellulose, in particular grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium salts, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts or dimethyldiallylammonium salts. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200® and Celquat H 100® by the company National Starch.

[0115] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxy functional groups present in the guar gum, may for example range from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0116] Among the non-associative thickening polymers without saccharide units that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures thereof, of crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.

[0117] The first family of non-associative thickening polymers suitable for use is represented by the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

[0118] The non-associative thickening polymer may also be a crosslinked (meth)acrylic copolymer, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.

[0119] The non-associative thickening polymer may be selected from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof.

[0120] Among the partially or completely neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, mention may in particular be made of the products described in Example 1 of patent application EP 503853, reference being made to said document with regard to these polymers.

[0121] The composition may also comprise, as non-associative thickening polymer, a homopolymer of ammonium acrylate or a copolymer of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.

[0122] Also usable are cationic thickening polymers of the acrylic type.

[0123] Among the hydrophilic thickening polymers that may be mentioned are associative polymers that are well known to those skilled in the art and are in particular of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.

[0124] Recall that associative polymers are polymers that are capable of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules in aqueous media.

[0125] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

[0126] The term "hydrophobic group" means a group or polymer having a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0127] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also represent a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example polybutadiene.

[0128] Among the associative polymers of anionic type that may be mentioned are: - (a) comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain aryl ether unit, more particularly wherein the hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly a vinyl carboxylic acid, most particularly acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or a mixture thereof. Among these anionic associative polymers, particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ethers, and 0% to 1% by weight of crosslinkers, which are well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomers, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene bisacrylamide. Among the latter polymers, the most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10OE) stearyl alcohol ether (steareth-10), in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the names Salcare SC80® and Salcare SC90®, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10). - (b) i) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and ii) (C 10~ C 30 ) alkyl esters containing at least one hydrophobic unit. The unsaturated carboxylic acids useful in the present invention (C 10 ~C 30 ) Alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, as well as the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0129] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, by patents US 3,915,921 and US 4,509,949.

[0130] The ethylenically unsaturated monomer having a sulfonic group is, in particular, vinyl sulfonic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamide (C1-C 22 ) Alkyl sulfonic acid, N-(C1-C 22 ) Alkyl (meth)acrylamide (C1-C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acids, such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or fully neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] (Meth)acrylamide (C1-C 22 ) Alkyl sulfonic acids, such as acrylamido methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido dodecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or completely neutralized forms, are more preferentially used.

[0132] 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), and also its partially or fully neutralized forms, are more particularly used.

[0133] This family of polymers consists of C6-C 22 They may in particular be chosen from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with n-monoalkylamines or di-n-alkylamines, such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, chosen for example from (meth)acrylic acid, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives, or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0134] Preferred polymers of this family are selected from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.

[0135] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers that do not contain a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acid, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives, or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or with mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0136] As cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the invention, in particular vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacryl-amidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers are used.

[0137] The amphoteric associative polymer is preferably chosen from those containing at least one acyclic cationic unit, more particularly from those prepared from or containing 1 to 20 mol %, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol %, and even more particularly from 1.5 to 6 mol %, of an aliphatic chain monomer, relative to the total number of moles of monomer.

[0138] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO98 / 44012.

[0139] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, preferred are the acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.

[0140] Preferably, the polyurethane polyether comprises at least two types of hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, which may be side chains or terminal chains of the hydrophilic block. In particular, one or more side chains may be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of the hydrophilic block.

[0141] The polyurethane polyethers may be in the form of multiblocks, and in particular triblocks. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example triblock copolymers with a hydrophilic central block) or may be distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example multiblock copolymers). These same polymers may also be graft or star polymers.

[0142] The non-ionic aliphatic chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic blocks of which are polyoxyethylene chains containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Non-ionic polyurethane polyethers contain urethane bonds between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the name.

[0143] By extension, also included among the non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic block is linked to the lipophilic block via other chemical bonds.

[0144] Even more particularly preferred is the use of polyurethane polyethers obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds, including (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0145] Preferably, the hydrophilic thickener is selected from polymers containing sugar units. More preferably, the hydrophilic thickener is selected from natural gums. Even more preferably, the hydrophilic thickener is selected from microbial gums, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum.

[0146] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrophilic thickener comprises a combination of at least two types of hydrophilic thickeners. In a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic thickener comprises at least two types of hydrophilic thickeners selected from polymers having sugar units, preferentially from natural gums and more preferentially from microbial gums, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum.

[0147] The amount of hydrophilic thickener in the first composition may be up to 15% by weight, preferably up to 10% by weight, more preferably up to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0148] The amount of (c) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 0.15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0149] The amount of (c) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] The amount of (c) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.15% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0151] (Other ingredients) - Sugar alcohols The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one sugar alcohol. Two or more types of sugar alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of sugar alcohol or a combination of different types of sugar alcohols may be used.

[0152] Sugar alcohols are compounds obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a sugar.

[0153] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol can be selected from sugar alcohols and mixtures thereof reduced from sugars, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. The sugars, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof can be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one substituent, such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0154] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohols can be derived from monosaccharides and / or disaccharides, trisaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

[0155] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a monosaccharide selected from, for example, pentoses such as ribulose, xylose, ribose, arabinose, lyxose and deoxyribose, hexoses such as allulose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, fucose, fuculose and rhamnose, and heptoses such as sedoheptulose. Sugar alcohols derived from monosaccharides are also referred to in this context as monosaccharide sugar alcohols.

[0156] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a disaccharide, such as sucrose, lactose, maltose, and trehalose. Sugar alcohols derived from disaccharides are also referred to in this context as disaccharide sugar alcohols.

[0157] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a trisaccharide, such as maltotriose, cellotriose, 2'-fucosyllactose, gentianose, raffinose, and melissitose.

[0158] In some preferred embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be selected from the group including erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, arabitol, xylitol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0159] In another preferred embodiment, the sugar alcohol may be selected from the group comprising erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, arabitol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the sugar alcohol comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol.

[0161] In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the sugar alcohol comprises at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol.

[0162] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the sugar alcohol comprises at least two types of sugar alcohol.

[0163] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the (b) sugar alcohol comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol, such as erythritol, mannitol, and sorbitol, in combination with at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol, such as maltitol and lactitol.

[0164] The amount of sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.05% to 3% by mass, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by mass, more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0165] - Polyol The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyol. Two or more polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of polyol or a combination of different types of polyols may be used.

[0166] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule that contains at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0167] Polyols suitable for use in the present invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compounds having at least two --OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.

[0168] Preferably, the polyols that may be used in the composition according to the invention are linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl type compounds having at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, preferably from 2 to 5 -OH functional groups, more preferably from 2 to 4 -OH functional groups, even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functional groups.

[0169] Polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating the cosmetic composition according to the invention are in particular those having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0170] The polyols that may be used according to the invention are chosen from linear or branched, preferably linear, polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, of which mention may in particular be made of: diols, such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof.

[0171] The amount of polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by mass, more preferably from 1% to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0172] - Non-ionic surfactants The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant. If two or more non-ionic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

[0173] The nonionic surfactant may have an HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.0, more preferably 4.0 to 5.0. Alternatively, the nonionic surfactant may have an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably 12 to 16, more preferably 13 to 15. When two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the nonionic surfactants.

[0174] The non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from: (1) a surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl glycerides, and polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers; (2) Mixed esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, carboxylic acids, and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars, and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) A surfactant selected from fatty esters of sorbitan, oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan, and oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan; (5) Block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B); (6) Polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C 16 ~C 30 )ether, (7) Silicone surfactants, and (8) Mixtures of these.

[0175] The surfactant (1) may be fluid at a temperature of 45°C or less.

[0176] The surfactant (1) may in particular be: - at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C 22 Hydrocarbon groups, e.g. C8-C 22 Alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C 18 Alkyl or alkenyl groups, more preferably C8-C 12 Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters of at least one, preferably one, fatty acid containing an alkyl or alkenyl group and 2 to 12 glycerols, preferably 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerols; - polyoxyethylenated (PEGylated) alkyl glycerides, such as polyethylene glycol derivatives of mixtures of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic and capric acid (preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably having from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, even more preferably having from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units), such as PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glyceride, and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; - at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C 22 Hydrocarbon groups, e.g. C8-C 22 Alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C 18 Alkyl or alkenyl groups, more preferably C8-C 12 polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one, preferably one, fatty alcohol containing an alkyl or alkenyl group and 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units, and - A mixture of these.

[0177] It is preferred that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 2 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably from 4 to 6 glycerols.

[0178] The polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be selected from mono-, di- and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acids, preferably saturated acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid, containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0179] The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers, may contain from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ether may be chosen in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers that may be mentioned are lauryl alcohol ethers containing 2, 3, 4 and 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4 and laureth-5), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BL-2 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., Emalex 703 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., Nikkol BL-4 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. and EMALEX 705 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd. Mention may also be made, for example, of stearyl alcohol ethers containing 2, 3, 4, 5 and 20 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Steareth-2, Steareth-3, Steareth-4, Steareth-5 and Steareth-20), such as the products sold under the name Emalex 602 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., Emalex 603 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., Nikkol BS-4 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. and Emalex 605 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.

[0180] The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ether is a C8-C 24 Polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols or alcohols and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, as well as C4-C 24 Also preferred are fatty alcohols or polypropylene glycol ethers of alcohols, such as PPG-14 butyl ether and PPG-15 stearyl ether.

[0181] The (2) mixed ester of a fatty acid or fatty alcohol, a carboxylic acid, and glycerol that can be used as the nonionic surfactant can be particularly selected from the group including mixed esters of a fatty acid or fatty alcohol having an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and an α-hydroxy acid and / or succinic acid with glycerol. The α-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] The alkyl chains of the fatty acids or fatty alcohols derived from the mixed esters that may be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may in particular be stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonic acid, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof.

[0183] Examples of mixed esters that may be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention include the mixed ester of glycerol with a mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: glyceryl citric acid / lactic acid / linoleic acid / oleate) sold by Huls under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by Huls under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl citrate stearate) sold by Huls under the name Imwitor 370; and the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl lactate stearate) sold by Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.

[0184] The fatty acid ester of sugar (3) that can be used as the nonionic surfactant is a C8-C 22 Esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids with sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, as well as C 14 ~C 22 It may especially be chosen from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids and of methylglucose.

[0185] C8 to C4 forming the fatty unit of the ester that can be used in the present invention 22 Or C 14 ~C 22 The fatty acids comprise saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl or alkenyl chains containing from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty units of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearic acid esters, behenic acid esters, arachidonic acid esters, palmitic acid esters, myristic acid esters, lauric acid esters and capric acid esters, and mixtures thereof. Stearic acid esters are preferably used.

[0186] The sugar fatty alcohol ether (3) that can be used as the nonionic surfactant may be solid at a temperature of 45° C. or less and may have a C8 to C6 22 Ethers or mixtures of ethers of fatty alcohols with glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, as well as C 14 ~C 22 They may in particular be chosen from the group comprising the ethers or mixtures of ethers of fatty alcohols and methylglucose, these being in particular alkylpolyglucosides.

[0187] C8-C forming the fatty units of the ethers that can be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention 22 Or C 14 ~C 22 The fatty alcohols comprise saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl or alkenyl chains containing, respectively, 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty units of the ethers may be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.

[0188] (4) Fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan that can be used as the nonionic surfactants described above are C 16 ~C 22 Oxyethylation of fatty acid esters and sorbitan C 16 ~C 22 The oxyethylenated esters may be selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters, which may be formed from at least one fatty acid containing at least one saturated linear alkyl chain, each containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or from ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters may generally contain 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units, preferably 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

[0189] These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof, with preference given to using stearates and palmitates.

[0190] The (4) oxyalkylenated fatty ester, preferably ethoxylated fatty ester, which may be used as the nonionic surfactant may be an ester formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and at least one fatty acid chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. The fatty chain in the ester may be selected in particular from stearic acid ester, behenic acid ester, arachidic acid ester and palmitic acid ester units, and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned are esters of stearic acid containing 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, and esters of behenic acid containing 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.

[0191] The block copolymer of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B) that can be used as the nonionic surfactant (5) is particularly represented by the formula (I): HO(C2H4O) x (C3H6O) y (C2H4O) z H (I) [In the formula, x, y, and z are integers such that x+z is in the range of 2 to 100, and y is in the range of 14 to 60] and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from block copolymers of formula (I) having an HLB value in the range of 8.0 to 14.0.

[0192] (6) Polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C 16 ~C 30 ) The ether may be selected from the group consisting of: PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30; polyoxyethylene (30) polyoxypropylene (6) tetradecyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PEN-4630; PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-12; polyoxyethylene(12) polyoxypropylene(6) tetradecyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PEN-4612; PPG-13 decyltetradeceth-24; polyoxyethylene(24) polyoxypropylene(13) decyltetradecyl ether, such as that sold by NOF Corporation under the name UNILUBE 50MT-2200B; PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (6) decyltetradecyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PEN-4620; PPG-4 ceteth-1; polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PBC-31; PPG-8 ceteth-1; polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PBC-41; PPG-4 ceteth-10; polyoxyethylene (10) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PBC-33; PPG-4 Ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PBC-34; PPG-5 Ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (5) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Croda Inc. under the trade name Procetyl AWS; PPG-8 Ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PBC-44; and PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene stearyl ether (34 EO) (23 PO), such as that sold by POLA Chemical Industries Co., Ltd. under the trade name Unisafe 34S-23. These can provide compositions with stability over long periods of time, even when the temperature of the composition rises and falls within a relatively short period of time.

[0193] Among the silicone surfactants (7) which may be used as the abovementioned nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US Pat. No. 5,364,633 and US Pat. No. 5,411,744.

[0194] The silicone surfactant (7) as the nonionic surfactant is preferably represented by the formula (I):

[0195] [ka]

[0196] [In the formula, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently a C1 to C6 alkyl group or -(CH2) x -(OCH2CH2) y -(OCH2CH2CH2) z represents an -OR group, where at least one R, R or R group is not an alkyl group, and R is hydrogen, an alkyl group or an acyl group; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer in the range of 0 to 50, with the condition that A and B are not equal to 0 at the same time; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5. It may also be a compound of the formula:

[0197] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer in the range of 2-6, and y is an integer in the range of 4-30.

[0198] Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) that may be mentioned are those of formula (II):

[0199] [ka]

[0200] [In the formula, A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10, and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20] It is a compound of the formula:

[0201] As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may also be made of those of formula (III): H-(OCH2CH2) y -(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO] A' -(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2) y -OH (III) [In the formula, A′ and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20] It is a compound of the formula:

[0202] The nonionic surfactant may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] - Amino acids The composition according to the present invention may include at least one type of amino acid. Two or more types of amino acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of amino acid or a combination of different types of amino acids may be used. The amino acids may include analogs, solvates, hydrates, stereoisomers, and salts thereof.

[0204] An amino acid has at least one amino group and at least one carboxyl group. The amino group may be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, or a tertiary amino group.

[0205] The amino acids may be in the D or L configuration.

[0206] The amino acids may be selected from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids, neutral amino acids, and mixtures thereof. An acidic amino acid typically has one amino group and two carboxyl groups. Acidic amino acids may include glutamic acid and aspartic acid. A basic amino acid typically has two amino groups and one carboxyl group. Basic amino acids may include arginine, lysine, histidine, and ornithine. The number of amino groups and the number of carboxyl groups in a neutral amino acid are the same. Neutral amino acids may include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, asparagine, glutamine, proline, phenylalanine, tyrosine, and tryptophan. In some preferred embodiments, the amino acids may be selected from basic amino acids, and mixtures thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the amino acid may be arginine.

[0207] The amino acids may be selected from α-amino acids, β-amino acids, γ-amino acids and δ-amino acids. The α-amino acids may be selected from non-cyclic α-amino acids and cyclic α-amino acids. The non-cyclic α-amino acids may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. The cyclic α-amino acids may be selected from non-aromatic cyclic α-amino acids, such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyroglutamic acid or pyroic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid may be formed by intermolecular condensation of the amino and carboxyl groups of glutamic acid.

[0208] In some embodiments, the amino acid may be selected from amino acid derivatives, where the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group in the amino acid is replaced with at least one substituent.

[0209] Examples of substituents that may be mentioned are alkyl, acyl, alkenyl, alkoxyl and alkoxycarbonyl groups.

[0210] The alkyl group may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group. The alkyl group may be a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, i-propyl and butyl. Alternatively, the alkyl group may be a cyclic C3-C6 alkyl group, such as cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl.

[0211] The acyl group may be a C1 to C6 acyl group, such as a formyl group and an acetyl group.

[0212] The alkenyl group may be a C2-C6 alkenyl group, such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group, and a hexenyl group.

[0213] The alkoxy group may be a C1 to C6 alkoxy group, such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group, and a propoxy group.

[0214] The alkoxycarbonyl group may be a C1 to C6 alkoxycarbonyl group, such as a methoxycarbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group, and a propoxycarbonyl group.

[0215] The above substituents may be further substituted with at least one group, such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group, and an aromatic group, such as a phenyl group.

[0216] In one embodiment, the amino acid may be selected from a salt of an amino acid or a salt of an amino acid derivative.

[0217] The type of salt of amino acid or amino acid derivative is not limited. The salt may be acidic or basic. Acidic salts include, for example, inorganic acid salts such as hydrochloride, sulfate, nitrate and phosphate, and organic acid salts such as citrate, oxalate, acetate, formate, maleate and tartrate. Basic salts include, for example, inorganic basic salts such as sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, copper salt, zinc salt, aluminum salt and ammonium salt, and organic basic salts such as triethylammonium salt, triethanolammonium salt, pyridinium salt and diisopropylammonium salt.

[0218] The amino acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.03% to 3% by mass, more preferably 0.05% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0219] - water The composition according to the invention preferably comprises water.

[0220] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention may be at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, and / or at most 95% by weight, preferably at most 85% by weight, more preferably at most 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 50% by mass to 85% by mass, and more preferably 60% by mass to 80% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0222] - Additives The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants common in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, selected from cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; penetrating agents; pH adjusters, such as sodium hydroxide; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizing agents, such as sodium hyaluronate; emollients; hydrophilic active agents; free radical scavengers; sequestering agents, such as gluconolactone; suspending agents; buffers; fragrances; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and / or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizing agents; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifying agents; agents capable of causing a cooling sensation, such as menthol; and mixtures thereof.

[0223] The composition according to the invention may further comprise a plant extract, such as an extract from a plant of the Nymphaeaceae family, for example an extract of the roots of Nymphaea alba or an extract of the roots of ginger.

[0224] The amount of the extract from a plant of the Nymphaeaceae family may be in the range of 0.0001% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably 0.001% to 0.05% by weight, or specifically 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0225] Mention may be made, as hydrophilic active ingredients, of vitamin B3 and derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.

[0226] The amount of the additive contained in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be 0.01 to 30% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition according to the present invention.

[0227] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention does not contain oil or contains a trace amount of oil. In some embodiments, the oil may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention does not contain oil (i.e., 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition).

[0228] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and at room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0229] The oils may include volatile or non-volatile oils, which may in particular be hydrocarbon-based oils of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof. The oils may be chosen from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof.

[0230] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil that contains mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oils do not contain any silicon atoms.

[0231] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group, such as dimethicone.

[0232] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may generally be, for example, 2-7, preferably 3-7, and more preferably 4-6.

[0233] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing components (a) to (c) through a conventional technique in the art. The other components described above can be mixed with these components. While mixing these components, they can be heated if necessary.

[0234] [Cosmetic methods and uses] The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for or conditioning the scalp, which comprises applying to the scalp a composition according to the invention.

[0235] Cosmetic method means herein a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or conditioning keratinous materials.

[0236] The step of applying can be carried out by any conventional means, such as by applicator, for example, by hand, spray, brush, etc. The step of applying can be a step of topical application.

[0237] The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on cosmetic composition.Therefore, the cosmetic method according to the present invention does not include the step of rinsing or washing off the applied composition after the step of application.In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic method according to the present invention does not include the step of rinsing or washing off the applied composition within 1 hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after the step of application.

[0238] Moreover, the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention in the cosmetics field, in particular in caring for and / or conditioning the scalp.

[0239] The present invention also relates to the use of (b) a monoalcohol and (c) a hydrophilic thickener for stabilizing a composition comprising (a) a lipophilic solid active agent. The composition may comprise an oil in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, or the composition may be free of oil.

[0240] The same explanations given for the composition comprising (a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent, (b) at least one monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener in the composition of the present invention can also be applied to the method and use according to the present invention. The composition used in the method and use according to the present invention may comprise any of the optional ingredients explained above for the composition according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0241] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0242] [Composition] Compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were prepared according to the following protocol. The formulation ratios are shown in Table 1 below. Oryzanol was obtained from Tsuno Foods Co., Ltd., and it is sold under the name "Gamma Oryzanol". In Table 1, all ingredients are based on "mass %" of the active ingredient.

[0243] [Preparation protocol] 1) If present, water-soluble ingredients such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, Nymphaea alba extract, propylene glycol, arginine and sugar compounds are added to the water. 2) Stir at room temperature until all ingredients are completely dissolved. 3) Add oily or solid ingredients such as ginger extract and oryzanol. Pre-adjust the pH to be slightly acidic (approximately 6). 4) Stir at room temperature until all ingredients are completely dissolved. 5) Add sodium hyaluronate, ethanol, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and menthol to adjust the final pH to 5.3.

[0244] [evaluation] (stability) 10 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was stored for two months at different temperatures, i.e., 4° C., 25° C., 37° C., or 45° C. Then, the appearance and viscosity changes of each of the compositions were evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. - Viscosity The viscosity of each of the compositions was measured at room temperature using a VISCOMAN™ (GILSON Technology). OK: Viscosity change after storage was less than 10%. NG: Viscosity change after storage was more than 10% - exterior OK: No phase separation or color change was observed at any temperature. NG: Phase separation and color change were observed at all temperatures.

[0245] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0246] [Table 1]

[0247] As can be seen from the results shown in Table 1, the compositions according to Examples 1-4 containing components (a)-(c) of the present invention exhibited improved stability.

[0248] In contrast, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not contain a monoalcohol, and the compositions according to Comparative Examples 2 and 3, which did not contain a hydrophilic thickener, did not exhibit good stability.

[0249] It can therefore be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is highly preferred as a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or conditioning the scalp, since it is capable of providing a stable composition even when it comprises solid components and does not contain a significant amount of oil.

Claims

1. A composition for caring for the scalp, comprising: (a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent; (b) at least one monoalcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener; A composition comprising:

2. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) the lipophilic solid active agent is an organic compound.

3. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) the lipophilic solid active agent is an active agent for the skin and / or scalp.

4. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) lipophilic solid active agent is selected from anti-aging active agents and active agents with anti-free radical properties or free radical scavengers for the skin and / or scalp.

5. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) lipophilic solid active agent is selected from retinol (vitamin A) and derivatives such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes including beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, vitamin Ds, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, organic acid esters, and unsaponifiables with cosmetic and / or dermatological properties including tocotrienols, sesamin, phytosterols, squalene, waxes and terpenes, and preferably the (a) powdery active agent is selected from organic acid esters selected from ethyl ferulate, oryzanol, in particular gamma-oryzanol.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) the hydrophilic thickener is selected from thickening polymers having sugar units.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) the hydrophilic thickener is selected from gums.

8. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) the hydrophilic thickener comprises a combination of at least two types of hydrophilic thickeners.

9. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) the powdered active agent is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (b) monoalcohol is present in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein (c) the hydrophilic thickener is present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.15% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. 10. The composition according to claim 1, which is in a non-emulsion form, such as a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, and a serum.

13. 10. The composition according to claim 1, which is a leave-on cosmetic composition.

14. 2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising the oil in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A cosmetic method for caring for or conditioning the scalp, comprising the step of applying to the scalp a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.