Composition for keratin fiber care

Abstract

To provide a composition for keratin fiber care, capable of imparting care effect and improved sensation.SOLUTION: The present invention provides a composition for keratin fiber care, comprising (a) at least one plant extract for curing keratin fiber, (b) at least one sugar alcohol, and (c) at least one amino acid.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition. In addition, the present invention also relates to the use of the composition and a cosmetic method using the composition. [Background technology]

[0002] In the field of cosmetics, cosmetic compositions that can obtain care effects are increasingly in demand from users.To obtain care effects, active agents are generally included in the composition.In the cosmetic compositions that contain cosmetic active agents for keratinous materials, oil can be used in the formulation as a medium to achieve good penetration properties of active agents into keratinous materials.

[0003] For example, JP-T-2020-514263 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising 30% to 89% by weight of at least one polar oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, 10% to 45% by weight of at least one C2-C6 aliphatic monoalcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition, and 0.5% to 50% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one hydrophilic active agent, wherein the composition contains less than 7% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0004] However, there is a problem that cosmetic compositions that contain oil can cause sticky feeling during application.The cosmetic benefits obtained from oil-based compositions are not necessarily obtained from aqueous compositions.Generally, the techniques that are applied to oil-based compositions do not work in aqueous compositions.Therefore, there is a need for cosmetic compositions in aqueous form that provide cosmetic benefits such as hair fiber hardening that is connected to hair volume.

[0005] In addition, styling polymers are typically used in cosmetic compositions for the purpose of providing immediate hair fiber stiffening.However, styling polymers may cause users to experience unnatural styling-like sensations.Therefore, there is also a need for cosmetic compositions that provide cosmetic benefits such as hair fiber stiffening that results in hair volume without the use of traditional styling polymers and without providing styling sensations. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0006] [Patent Document 1] JP-T-2020-514263 [Patent Document 2] U.S. Patent No. A-5364633 [Patent Document 3] U.S. Patent No. A-5411744 [Non-patent literature]

[0007] [Non-Patent Document 1] "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, 3rd ed., 1982, Vol. 3, pp. 896-900 and Vol. 15, pp. 439-458 [Non-Patent Document 2] "Polymers in Nature" by EA MacGregor and CT Greenwood, John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980 [Non-Patent Document 3] "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, 2nd ed., published by Academic Press Inc. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] The object of the present invention is to provide a composition for caring for keratinous fibres, which is capable of imparting a care effect and an improved sensation. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] The above object of the present invention is to (a) at least one plant extract for stiffening keratin fibers; (b) at least one sugar alcohol; (c) at least one amino acid; This can be achieved by a composition comprising:

[0010] (a) The at least one plant extract for stiffening keratinous fibers may be selected from ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceous plants.

[0011] (a) The at least one plant extract for stiffening keratinous fibers may be a root extract from a plant of the Nymphaeaceae family.

[0012] The Nymphaeaceae family includes Nymphaea plants such as Nymphaea alba (white water lily), Nymphaea odorata (fragrant water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (Australian water lily), Nymphaea colorata (Blue pigmy), Nymphaea Mexicana (Yellow water lily), Nymphaea rubra (India red water lily), Nymphaea lotus (Egyptian white water lily), Nymphaea serrata (Siberian ... water-lily), tropical water lily, Nymphaea tetragona (Pygmy water lily) and Nymphaea cv. (Pygmy water lily); Victoria plants such as Victoria regia and Victoria cruziana (Santa Cruz water lily); Euryale plants such as Euryale ferox (Prickly water lily); and Nuphar plants such as Nuphar pumilum var. ozeense, Nuphar japonicum. japonicum), Nuphar subintegerrimum, Nuphar japonicum f. rubrotinctumrubrotinctum and Nuphar lutea ssp. polysepala (Rocky Mountain pond-lily), and mixtures thereof.

[0013] (b) The at least one sugar alcohol may include at least two types of sugar alcohol.

[0014] (b) The at least one sugar alcohol may comprise at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol in combination with at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol.

[0015] (b) The at least one sugar alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, and xylitol.

[0016] (c) The amino acid may include a basic amino acid.

[0017] (c) The amino acid may be arginine.

[0018] (a) The at least one plant extract for stiffening keratinous fibers may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.001% to 0.05% by weight, or in particular from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] (b) At least one sugar alcohol may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] (c) At least one amino acid may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by mass, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0021] The compositions may be in non-emulsion formats, such as solutions, especially aqueous solutions, and serums.

[0022] The composition may contain the oil in an amount in the range of 0% to 5% by mass, preferably 0% to 0.5% by mass, and more preferably 0% to 0.1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0023] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or conditioning keratinous fibres, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous fibres a composition according to the invention. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0024] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a method for determining a bend angle. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0025] After extensive investigation, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that a combination of at least one plant extract, at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid for stiffening keratinous fibers can impart cosmetic benefits to the keratinous fibers, such as strength effects and improved feel after it is applied onto the keratinous fibers.

[0026] Therefore, the composition for caring for keratinous fibers according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one plant extract for stiffening keratin fibers; (b) at least one sugar alcohol; (c) at least one amino acid; Includes.

[0027] Hereinafter, the compositions and cosmetic methods according to the invention will be described in more detail.

[0028] [Composition] The composition for caring for keratinous fibers according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one plant extract for stiffening keratinous fibers, (b) at least one sugar alcohol, and (c) at least one amino acid.

[0029] The composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, in particular to keratinous fibers.

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, "keratin fibres" is intended to mean eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

[0031] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended for hair care.

[0032] The composition according to the invention can be used as a composition for conditioning and / or caring for keratinous fibres such as hair.

[0033] The compositions according to the invention can take a variety of forms, such as solutions, gels, lotions, serums, suspensions, dispersions, fluids, emulsions, pastes, foams, etc. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are in a non-emulsion format, such as solutions, especially aqueous solutions, and serums.

[0034] The compositions used according to the invention are preferably intended to be used as leave-on (or leave-in) type cosmetic compositions. The term "leave-on" means a composition that is not intended to be washed out / rinsed out or removed immediately after application. Leave-on compositions are different from rinse-off type compositions that are intended to be rinsed off after being used on keratin fibers.

[0035] The components included in the composition are described in detail below.

[0036] (Plant extract) The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one plant extract for stiffening keratin fibers. Two or more types of plant extracts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of plant extract or a combination of different types of plant extracts may be used.

[0037] The plant extract of the present invention is an active ingredient for keratinous fibers, in particular hair, for stiffening the keratinous fibers. The plant extract therefore has the function of stiffening the keratinous fibers.

[0038] Preferably, the plant extract of the invention is also an active ingredient for reducing stickiness and / or improving smoothness of keratinous fibers, in particular hair. Thus, the plant extract may have the function of imparting less stickiness and greater smoothness to keratinous fibers.

[0039] The plant extract of the present invention can be preferably selected from components derived from plants of the Nymphaeaceae family.

[0040] "Nymphaeaceae-derived ingredients" is intended to mean any material derived from Nymphaeaceae plants. Nymphaeaceae-derived ingredients may include Nymphaeaceae plants, their tissues, extracts, juices or slurries, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] In some embodiments, ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceae plants can be selected from natural products and commercial products including Nymphaeaceae plants, their tissues, extracts, juices or slurries, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Nymphaeaceae plants include Nymphaea plants such as Nymphaea alba (white water lily), Nymphaea odorata (fragrant water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (Australian water lily), Nymphaea colorata (blue pygmy water lily), Nymphaea mexicana (yellow water lily), Nymphaea rubra (Indian water lily), Nymphaea lotus (Egyptian white water lily), Nymphaea tropicalis, Nymphaea tetragona (little water lily) and Nymphaea c v. (water lily); Victoria plants such as Victoria regia and Victoria cruziana (Paraguay water lily); Euryale plants such as Euryale ferox (water lily); and Nuphar plants such as Nuphar pumirum var. oseense, Nuphar japonicum, Nuphar subtilisinum, Nuphar japonicum f. rubrotinctum and Nuphar lutea sp. polysepara (Rocky Mountain water lily).

[0043] In some embodiments, the Nymphaeaceae plant can be selected from Nymphaea plants. In certain embodiments, the Nymphaeaceae plant can be selected from Nymphaea alba.

[0044] Nymphaeaceae plants may be the whole plant or parts thereof, such as the whole plant, above-ground parts thereof, roots, bulbs, seeds, sprouts, seeds, leaves, flowers, or combinations thereof.

[0045] The extract, juice or slurry may be derived from the whole plant or parts thereof, such as the whole plant, above-ground parts thereof, roots, bulbs, seeds, sprouts, seeds, leaves, flowers, or combinations thereof.

[0046] The extract may be a solvent extract, preferably an aqueous extract, an alcoholic extract, or a water-alcoholic extract, such as a water-propylene glycol extract.

[0047] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ingredient derived from a Nymphaeaceae plant is a root extract of a Nymphaeaceae plant.In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ingredient derived from a Nymphaeaceae plant is a root extract of Nymphaeaceae.In a particular embodiment, the ingredient derived from a Nymphaeaceae plant may advantageously be a root extract of Nymphaeaceae, in particular sold under the name WATER LILY PRO by the company LIPOID KOSMETIK.

[0048] The amount of (a) at least one plant extract for stiffening keratinous fibers in the composition according to the invention may be at least 0.0001% by weight, or preferably at least 0.0005% by weight, more preferably at least 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] The amount of (a) at least one plant extract for stiffening keratinous fibers in the composition according to the invention may be at most 1% by weight, preferably at most 0.5% by weight, more preferably at most 0.1% by weight, even more preferably at most 0.05% by weight, or in particular at most 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] The amount of (a) at least one plant extract for stiffening keratinous fibers in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.001% to 0.05% by weight, or in particular from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] (Sugar alcohol) The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one sugar alcohol. Two or more types of sugar alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of sugar alcohol or a combination of different types of sugar alcohols may be used.

[0052] Sugar alcohols are compounds obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a sugar.

[0053] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be selected from sugar alcohols and mixtures thereof that are reduced from sugars, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The sugars, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one substituent, such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0054] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a monosaccharide, a disaccharide, a trisaccharide, or a mixture thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a monosaccharide and / or a disaccharide.

[0055] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a monosaccharide selected from, for example, pentoses such as ribulose, xylose, ribose, arabinose, lyxose and deoxyribose, hexoses such as allulose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, fucose, fuculose and rhamnose, and heptoses such as sedoheptulose. Sugar alcohols derived from monosaccharides are also referred to in this context as monosaccharide sugar alcohols.

[0056] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a disaccharide, such as sucrose, lactose, maltose, and trehalose. Sugar alcohols derived from disaccharides are also referred to in this context as disaccharide sugar alcohols.

[0057] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a trisaccharide such as maltotriose, cellotriose, 2'-fucosyllactose, gentianose, raffinose, and melissitose.

[0058] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and mixtures thereof, preferably the group consisting of erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the group consisting of maltitol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof, wherein at least one hydrogen in their hydroxyl groups may be replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0059] The sugars can be in the form of the L- or D-isomer.

[0060] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, (b) the sugar alcohol comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol.

[0061] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, (b) the sugar alcohol comprises at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol.

[0062] In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two types of sugar alcohols.

[0063] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the (b) sugar alcohol comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol, such as erythritol, mannitol, arabitol and sorbitol, and at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol, such as maltitol and lactitol, in combination.

[0064] In yet another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) at least one sugar alcohol comprises at least two types of sugar alcohol, preferably selected from erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol and xylitol, more preferably selected from erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol and sorbitol, and even more preferably selected from maltitol and sorbitol.

[0065] The amount of (b) at least one sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] The amount of (b) at least one sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be at most 15% by weight, preferably at most 12% by weight, more preferably at most 10% by weight, and even more preferably at most 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] The amount of (b) at least one sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 12% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, and even more preferably 0.3% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0068] (amino acid) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one amino acid. Two or more types of amino acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of amino acid or a combination of different types of amino acids may be used. The amino acids may include analogs, solvates, hydrates, stereoisomers, and salts thereof.

[0069] An amino acid has at least one amino group and at least one carboxyl group. The amino group may be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, or a tertiary amino group.

[0070] The amino acids may be in the D or L configuration.

[0071] The amino acids can be selected from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids, natural amino acids, and mixtures thereof. An acidic amino acid typically has one amino group and two carboxyl groups. Acidic amino acids can include glutamic acid and aspartic acid. A basic amino acid typically has two amino groups and one carboxyl group. Basic amino acids can include arginine, lysine, histidine, and ornithine. The number of amino groups and the number of carboxyl groups in a neutral amino acid are the same. Neutral amino acids can include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, asparagine, glutamine, proline, phenylalanine, tyrosine, and tryptophan. In certain preferred embodiments, (c) at least one amino acid can be arginine.

[0072] The amino acids may be selected from α-amino acids, β-amino acids, γ-amino acids and δ-amino acids. The α-amino acids may be selected from non-cyclic α-amino acids and cyclic α-amino acids. The non-cyclic α-amino acids may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. The cyclic α-amino acids may be selected from non-aromatic cyclic α-amino acids, such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyroglutamic acid or pyroic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid may be formed by intermolecular condensation of the amino and carboxyl groups of glutamic acid.

[0073] In some embodiments, (c) the at least one amino acid may be selected from an amino acid derivative, wherein the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group in the amino acid is replaced with at least one substituent.

[0074] Examples of substituents that may be mentioned are alkyl, acyl, alkenyl, alkoxyl and alkoxycarbonyl groups.

[0075] The alkyl group may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group. The alkyl group may be a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an i-propyl group and a butyl group. On the other hand, the alkyl group may be a cyclic C3-C6 alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group and a cyclohexyl group.

[0076] The acyl group may be a C1-C6 acyl group, such as a formyl group and an acetyl group.

[0077] The alkenyl group may be a C2-C6 alkenyl group, such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group, and a hexenyl group.

[0078] The alkoxy group may be a C1-C6 alkoxy group, such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group, and a propoxy group.

[0079] The alkoxycarbonyl group may be a C1-C6 alkoxycarbonyl group, such as a methoxycarbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group, and a propoxycarbonyl group.

[0080] The above substituents may be further substituted with at least one group such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group, and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.

[0081] In one embodiment, (c) the at least one amino acid may be selected from a salt of an amino acid, or a salt of an amino acid derivative.

[0082] The type of salt of amino acid or amino acid derivative is not limited. The salt may be an acid salt or a base salt. The acid salt may include, for example, inorganic acid salts such as hydrochloride, sulfate, nitrate and phosphate, and organic acid salts such as citrate, oxalate, acetate, formate, maleate and tartrate. The base salt may include, for example, inorganic base salts such as sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, copper salt, zinc salt, aluminum salt and ammonium salt, and organic base salts such as triethylammonium salt, triethanolammonium salt, pyridinium salt and diisopropylammonium salt.

[0083] The amount of (c) at least one amino acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The amount of (c) at least one amino acid in the composition according to the present invention may be not more than 5% by weight, preferably not more than 3% by weight, more preferably not more than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] The amount of (c) at least one amino acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0086] (water) The composition according to the invention preferably comprises water. The amount of water may depend on the amounts of the other ingredients.

[0087] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention may be at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 45% by weight, more preferably at least 50% by weight, even more preferably at least 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention may be up to 95% by weight, preferably up to 90% by weight, more preferably up to 85% by weight, or even more preferably up to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 45% by mass to 90% by mass, more preferably 50% by mass to 85% by mass, and even more preferably 60% by mass to 80% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0090] (Other ingredients) - A hydrophilic organic solvent acceptable for use in cosmetics The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent. If two or more of these solvents are used, they may be the same or different.

[0091] Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvents may include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, the monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as the monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6 and PEG-8, and derivatives thereof.

[0092] The amount of the hydrophilic organic solvent acceptable for use as a cosmetic in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 5% by mass to 50% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 40% by mass, and more preferably 15% by mass to 35% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0093] In one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of monoalcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 5% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 35% by mass, more preferably 15% by mass to 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0094] In one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of polyol or polyol ether in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 7% by mass, more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0095] - Powdered activator The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one powdered active agent. Two or more powdered active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of powdered active agent or a combination of different types of powdered active agents may be used.

[0096] The term "powder" as used herein should be understood to mean particles of any shape that are insoluble in the medium of the composition, especially water.

[0097] The powdered active agent may be of any shape, regardless of the crystalline form (eg, lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.), and may be platelet-shaped, spherical, or oblong.

[0098] The average particle size of the powdered active agent is not limited, but is generally 50 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 10 μm or less. The average particle size of the powdered active agent may be 0.01 μm or more, preferably 0.1 μm or more. The term "average particle size" used herein refers to the number-average particle size given by statistical particle size distribution for half of the population, and is referred to as D50. For example, the number-average particle size can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as the Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.

[0099] The powdered active agents may be chosen from cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents, such as anti-ageing active agents and active agents having anti-free radical properties or free radical scavengers.

[0100] The powdered active agent may be a lipophilic active agent.

[0101] The term "lipophilic" is used herein to refer to the degree of hydrophilicity at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 "Soluble in oil" refers to a substance that is soluble in oil at a concentration of at least 1% by weight (at 1000 MPa, 1000 Pa) based on the total weight of the oil.

[0102] The powdered active agent may be a water-insoluble active agent.

[0103] The term "water-insoluble" as used herein means water-insoluble at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 %. In particular, the term "soluble in water" refers to substances that are soluble in water at a concentration of less than 0.1% by weight, in particular less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of water (at 1000 MPa, 1000 sq. m. / kg).

[0104] In particular, the powdered active agent of the invention may be a cosmetic and / or dermatological lipophilic and / or water-insoluble active agent for the skin and / or scalp, in particular a lipophilic and water-insoluble active agent for the skin and / or scalp chosen from anti-ageing active agents, and active agents having anti-free radical properties or free radical scavengers.

[0105] In one preferred embodiment, the powdered activator of the present invention is an organic compound powdered activator.

[0106] It may be preferred that the molecular weight of the organic compound forming the powdered active agent is 150 or more, preferably 300 or more, more preferably 450 or more, and / or 3,000 or less, preferably 2,000 or less, more preferably 1,000 or less.

[0107] In some cases, it may be preferable that the molecular weight of the organic compound forming the powdered activator is in the range of 150 to 3,000, preferably 300 to 2,000, and more preferably 450 to 1,000.

[0108] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" may mean number average molecular weight.

[0109] Concerning powdered active agents, those which can be used are retinol (vitamin A) and derivatives, such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes, including beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate, D vitamins, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, organic acid esters, and unsaponifiable substances with cosmetic and / or dermatological properties, such as tocotrienols, sesamin, phytosterols, squalene, waxes and terpenes.

[0110] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the powdered active agent is an organic acid ester, in particular an ester of the formula (I):

[0111] [ka]

[0112] [In formula (I), R 1 , R 4 and R 5 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy; R 3 represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6) alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; R 6 teeth, i) (C1-C6) alkyl, preferably (C1-C4) alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl; ii) (C1~C 10 ) Alkyl, (C2-C 10 ) cycloalkyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl; and iii) Glycosyl represents a group selected from or a geometric isomer thereof, an organic or inorganic acid or base salt thereof, or a solvate thereof, in particular a hydrate.

[0113] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the ester of formula (I) has the following formula (I'):

[0114] [ka]

[0115] [In formula (I'), R 6 is as defined above, R 7 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group. It is of the following.

[0116] Particular examples of esters of formula (I) or (I') include methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, chlorogenic acid, isopropyl ferulate, or ferulic acid esters of sterols, such as oryzanol, especially gamma-oryzanol. According to another embodiment, oryzanol, especially gamma-oryzanol, is particularly preferred.

[0117] The powdered active agent may be present in a content of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. The powdered active agent may be present in a content of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0118] The powdered active agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] - Thickener The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thickening agent. A single type of thickening agent may be used, but two or more different types of thickening agents may also be used in combination.

[0120] It is preferred that the thickener is selected from hydrophilic thickeners. The term "hydrophilic" is used herein to mean a thickener that is hydrophilic at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 "Water-soluble" refers to a substance that is soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by mass or more based on the total mass of water (at 1 Pa).

[0121] Preferably, the thickening agent is selected from polysaccharides.

[0122] Polysaccharides include, for example, glucans, modified and unmodified starches (e.g., from cereals, such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables, such as yellow pea, and from tubers, such as potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, cellulose and its derivatives (e.g., methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabinose, They are selected from galactan, galacturonan, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucan, glucomannan, pectic acid and pectin, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactan, carrageenan, agar, glycosaminoglucan, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum ghatti, gum karaya, carob gum, galactomannans such as guar gum and non-ionic derivatives thereof (e.g. hydroxypropyl guar), sclerotium gum and xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] For example, polysaccharides that may be used are selected from those described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, 3rd Edition, 1982, Vol. 3, pp. 896-900 and Vol. 15, pp. 439-458, "Polymers in Nature" by EA MacGregor and CT Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, 2nd Edition, published by Academic Press Inc., the contents of which three publications are incorporated by reference in their entirety.

[0124] For example, starch, guar gum, cellulose, and derivatives thereof can be used.

[0125] Among the starches that may be used, mention may be made of macromolecules in the form of polymers containing base units, for example anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymers) and amylopectin (branched polymers). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, may vary depending on the plant origin of the starch.

[0126] The starch molecules used may have cereal or tuber origins as their botanical origin, and thus the starches may be chosen, for example, from maize, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches.

[0127] Starch generally exists in the form of a white powder that is insoluble in cold water and has a primary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

[0128] The starch may optionally be C1-C6 hydroxyalkylated or C1-C6 acylated (eg acetylated). The starch may also be subjected to a heat treatment.

[0129] Distarch phosphate or compounds rich in distarch phosphate can also be used, such as the products offered by the company AVEBE under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropylated cassava distarch phosphate), or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate), or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate).

[0130] The guar gum may be modified or unmodified.

[0131] Unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the names Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Meyhall.

[0132] The modified nonionic guar gum is, for example, modified with a C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0133] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0134] These guar gums are well known in the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting guar gum with the corresponding alkene oxide, such as propylene oxide, to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0135] The degree of hydroxyalkylation corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxy functional groups present in the guar gum and may range, for example, from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0136] Such non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, by the company Rhodia Chimie (Meyhall) under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 or by the company Aqualon under the name Galactasol 4H 4FD2 It is sold at.

[0137] Among the celluloses and cellulose derivatives used, such as celluloses modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, there are, for example, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose, as well as hydrophobized hydroxypropyl methylcellulose. Mention may be made of the products sold by the company Aqualon under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF and Klucel G.

[0138] The amount of thickener in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0139] - Non-ionic surfactants The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. A single type of nonionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may also be used in combination.

[0140] The nonionic surfactant may have an HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.0, more preferably 4.0 to 5.0. Alternatively, the nonionic surfactant may have an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably 12 to 16, more preferably 13 to 15. When two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the nonionic surfactants.

[0141] The non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from: (1) a surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl glycerides, and polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers; (2) Mixed esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, carboxylic acids, and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars, and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) A surfactant selected from fatty esters of sorbitan, oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan, and oxyalkylenated fatty esters. (5) Block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B); (6) Polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C 16 ~C 30 )ether, (7) Silicone surfactants, and (8) Mixtures of these.

[0142] The surfactant (1) may be fluid at a temperature of 45°C or less.

[0143] The surfactant (1) may in particular be: - at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C 22 Hydrocarbon groups, e.g. C8-C 22 Alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C 18 Alkyl or alkenyl groups, more preferably C8-C 12 polyglyceryl fatty acid esters of at least one, preferably one, fatty acid containing an alkyl or alkenyl group and 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably 2 to 10 glycerol units, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerol units; - polyoxyethylenated (PEGylated) alkyl glycerides, such as polyethylene glycol derivatives of mixtures of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic and capric acid (preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably having from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, even more preferably having from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units), such as PEG-6 (caprylic / capric) glyceride, PEG-7 (caprylic / capric) glyceride, and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, - at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C 22 Hydrocarbon groups, e.g. C8-C 22 Alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C 18 Alkyl or alkenyl groups, more preferably C8-C 12 polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one, preferably one, aliphatic alcohol containing an alkyl or alkenyl group and 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units, - A mixture of these.

[0144] It is preferred that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 2 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably from 4 to 6 glycerols.

[0145] The polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be selected from mono-, di- and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acids, preferably saturated acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid, containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0146] The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers, may contain 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ether may be chosen in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers that may be mentioned are lauryl alcohol ethers containing 2, 3, 4 and 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4 and laureth-5), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BL-2 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., Emalex 703 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., Nikkol BL-4 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., and EMALEX 705 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd. Mention may also be made, for example, of stearyl alcohol ethers containing 2, 3, 4, 5 and 20 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: steareth-2, steareth-3, steareth-4, steareth-5 and steareth-20), such as the products sold under the name Emalex 602 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., Emalex 603 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., Nikkol BS-4 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. and Emalex 605 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.

[0147] The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ether is one or more C8-C 24 Polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, and one or more C4-C 24 Also preferred are polypropylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols, such as PPG-14 butyl ether and PPG-15 stearyl ether.

[0148] (2) Mixed esters of fatty acids, or fatty alcohols, carboxylic acids and glycerol can be used as the nonionic surfactants described above and can in particular be selected from the group comprising fatty acids or fatty alcohols having an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and mixed esters of α-hydroxy acids and / or succinic acid with glycerol. The α-hydroxy acids can be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] The alkyl chains of the fatty acids or alcohols derived from the mixed esters that may be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] Examples of mixed esters that may be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention include the mixed ester of glycerol with a mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid sold under the name Imwitor 375 by the company Huls (CTFA name: glyceryl citric acid / lactic acid / linoleic acid / oleate); the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol sold under the name Imwitor 780 K by the company Huls (CTFA name: isostearyl diglyceryl succinate); the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol sold under the name Imwitor 370 by the company Huls (CTFA name: glyceryl citrate stearate); the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol sold under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30 by the company Danisco (CTFA name: glyceryl lactate stearate).

[0151] The fatty acid ester of sugar (3) that can be used as the nonionic surfactant is a C8-C 22 Esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids with sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and C 14 ~C 22 It may especially be chosen from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids and of methylglucose.

[0152] C8 to C4 forming the fatty unit of the ester that can be used in the present invention 22 Or C 14 ~C 22 The fatty acids comprise saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl or alkenyl chains containing from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty units of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.

[0153] The sugar fatty alcohol ether (3) that can be used as the nonionic surfactant may be solid at a temperature of 45° C. or less and may have a C8 to C 22 Ethers or mixtures of ethers of fatty alcohols with glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and C 14 ~C 22 They may in particular be chosen from the group comprising the ethers or mixtures of ethers of fatty alcohols and methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.

[0154] C8-C forming the fatty units of the ethers that can be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention 22 Or C 14 ~C 22 The fatty alcohols contain saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl or alkenyl chains containing, respectively, 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty units of the ethers can be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.

[0155] (4) Fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan that can be used as the nonionic surfactants described above are C 16 ~C 22 Oxyethylation of fatty acid esters and sorbitan C 16 ~C 22 The oxyethylenated esters may be selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters. They may be formed from at least one fatty acid containing at least one saturated linear alkyl chain each containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The oxyethylenated esters may generally contain 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units, preferably 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

[0156] These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof, with stearates and palmitates being preferably used.

[0157] The (4) oxyalkylenated fatty ester, preferably ethoxylated fatty ester, which may be used as the nonionic surfactant may be an ester formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and at least one fatty acid chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. The fatty chain in the ester may be selected in particular from stearic acid ester, behenic acid ester, arachidic acid ester, palmitic acid ester units, and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned are esters of stearic acid containing 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, and esters of behenic acid containing 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.

[0158] The block copolymer of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B) that can be used as the nonionic surfactant is represented by the formula (I): HO(C2H4O) x (C3H6O) y (C2H4O) z H (I) (wherein x, y, and z are integers such that x+z is in the range of 2 to 100, and y is in the range of 14 to 60). and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from block copolymers of formula (I) having an HLB value ranging from 8.0 to 14.0.

[0159] (6) Polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C 16 ~C 30 ) The ether may be selected from the group consisting of: PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30; polyoxyethylene (30) polyoxypropylene (6) tetradecyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PEN-4630; PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-12; polyoxyethylene(12) polyoxypropylene(6) tetradecyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PEN-4612; PPG-13 decyltetradeceth-24; polyoxyethylene (24) polyoxypropylene (13) decyltetradecyl ether, such as that sold by NOF Corp. under the name Unilube 50MT-2200B; PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (6) decyltetradecyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PEN-4620; PPG-4 ceteth-1; polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PBC-31; PPG-8 ceteth-1; polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PBC-41; PPG-4 ceteth-10; polyoxyethylene (10) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PBC-33; PPG-4 ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PBC-34; PPG-5 Ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (5) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Croda Inc. under the trade name Procetyl AWS; PPG-8 Ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol PBC-44; and PPG-23 Steareth-34; polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene stearyl ether (34 EO) (23 PO), such as that sold by POLA Chemical Industries Co., Ltd. under the name Unisafe 34S-23. These can provide compositions with stability over long periods of time, even when the temperature of the composition rises and falls over a relatively short period of time.

[0160] As silicone surfactants (7) that can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, mention may be made of those disclosed in US Pat. No. 5,364,633 and US Pat. No. 5,411,744.

[0161] The silicone surfactant (7) as the nonionic surfactant is preferably represented by the formula (I):

[0162] [ka]

[0163] [In the formula, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently a C1 to C6 alkyl group or -(CH2) x -(OCH2CH2) y -(OCH2CH2CH2) z represents an -OR group, where at least one R, R or R group is not an alkyl group, and R is hydrogen, an alkyl group or an acyl group; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer in the range of 0 to 50, with the condition that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5. It may also be a compound of the formula:

[0164] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer in the range of 2-6, and y is an integer in the range of 4-30.

[0165] Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) that may be mentioned are those of formula (II):

[0166] [ka]

[0167] (In the formula, A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10, and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.) It is a compound of the formula:

[0168] Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) that may also be mentioned are those of formula (III): H-(OCH2CH2) y -(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO] A' -(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2) y -OH (III) (In the formula, A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.) It is a compound of the formula:

[0169] The nonionic surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] - Additives The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants common in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, selected from cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; penetrating agents; pH adjusters such as sodium hydroxide; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizing agents such as hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; emollients; hydrophilic active agents; free radical scavengers; sequestering agents such as gluconolactone; suspending agents; buffering agents; fragrances; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and / or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizing agents; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifying agents; agents capable of causing a cooling sensation, for example menthol; and mixtures thereof.

[0171] Hydrophilic active ingredients can include vitamin B3 and derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.

[0172] The composition according to the invention may further comprise a plant extract, for example a ginger root extract.

[0173] The amount of the additive contained in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be 0.01% by mass to 30% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition according to the present invention.

[0174] Naturally, the skilled artisan will carefully select any adjuvant to be added to the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition according to the invention are not adversely affected or are not substantially affected by the envisaged addition.

[0175] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention does not contain oil or contains a trace amount of oil. In some embodiments, the oil may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention does not contain oil (i.e., 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition).

[0176] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and at room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0177] The oils include volatile or non-volatile oils, which may be hydrocarbon-based oils, especially of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof. The oils may be chosen from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof.

[0178] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil that contains mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oils do not contain any silicon atoms.

[0179] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group, such as dimethicone.

[0180] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the present invention do not include any styling polymers.

[0181] Styling polymers include, for example, polyacrylate crosspolymers or crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic or carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polyquaterniums, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers / copolymers, C 8~24 Hydroxyl-substituted aliphatic acids, C 8~24 They may be selected from conjugated aliphatic acids, sugar fatty esters, polyglyceryl esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may generally be, for example, 2-7, preferably 3-7, and more preferably 4-6.

[0183] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients according to any of the methods well known to those skilled in the art.

[0184] [Cosmetic methods and uses] The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or conditioning keratinous fibres, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous fibres a composition according to the invention.

[0185] Cosmetic method means herein a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for the care and / or conditioning of keratinous materials.

[0186] The application step can be performed by any conventional means, such as by applicator, for example, by hand, spray, brush, etc. The application step can be a topical application step.

[0187] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on cosmetic composition.Therefore, the cosmetic method according to the present invention does not include the step of rinsing or washing out the applied composition from keratin fibers after the application step.In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic method according to the present invention does not include the step of rinsing or washing out the applied composition within 1 hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after the application step.

[0188] Moreover, the present invention also relates to the use of the compositions according to the invention, in particular in the cosmetics field, for caring for and / or conditioning keratin fibres.

[0189] The same explanations for the composition (a) at least one plant extract for stiffening keratin fibers, (b) at least one sugar alcohol, and (c) at least one amino acid according to the present invention can be applied to the explanations for the method and use according to the present invention. The composition used in the method and the use according to the present invention may contain any of the optional components explained above for the composition according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0190] The present invention will now be described in more detail by examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0191] [Compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was prepared by mixing the components listed in Table 1 below. The numerical values ​​of the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on the "mass %" of each component relative to the total mass of the composition. "Maltitol (and) sorbitol" was obtained from a product sold under the name "Amalty Syrup" by Kankosha Co., Ltd.

[0192] [Preparation protocol] The compositions in the examples are (1) adding soluble ingredients such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, Nymphaea alba extract, propylene glycol, arginine, sugar alcohols, and polyols, if required, to deionized water; (2) stirring the mixture from step (1) at room temperature until all components are completely dissolved; (3) adding oily ingredients, such as oryzanol and ginger extract, into the mixture from step (2) and pre-adjusting the pH to be slightly acidic (approximately 6); (4) stirring the mixture from (3) until all components are completely dissolved; (5) adding sodium hyaluronate, ethanol, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and menthol to adjust the final pH to 5.3; The compound was prepared by a method including the steps of:

[0193] [Table 1]

[0194] [evaluation] (strength analysis) Strength analysis was performed by bending angle testing of each hair tress and referenced to a tress that had not had any composition applied.

[0195] A hair tress (1 g, 27 cm) was prepared for each experiment. Each hair tress was washed with the plain shampoo shown in Table 2 before application. After shampooing, the hair tress was rinsed with water and then towel dried. 0.20 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was applied to each hair tress and left in an environment of 24°C / 40% RH for 5 minutes.

[0196] For bending angle measurements the following measuring equipment was used: - A hair stand plate with clips for fixing hair strands - Jack stand for adjusting the position of the hair strands - Double-sided tape to secure the stand plate onto the jack - Digital camera - Image analysis software.

[0197] The root of the hair strand was fixed on the plate. Meanwhile, the tip of the strand was held and held upwards, then released so that the tip of the strand was facing downwards. In this way, the hair strand was allowed to naturally bend under gravity. The angle between the plate and the root of the hair strand (hair bundle) (Figure 1) was measured using image analysis software as a means to estimate the strength / stiffness of the hair.

[0198] The results are shown in Table 3 below. The bend angle of the hair tress itself was 71°. The higher the bend angle, the better the strength of the hair tress. It should be noted that a bend angle of 70° or greater may be a threshold that is considered to indicate strength.

[0199] (Sensory evaluation) A hair tress (1 g, 27 cm) was prepared for each experiment. Each hair tress was washed with the plain shampoo in Table 2 before application. After shampooing, the hair tress was rinsed with water and then towel dried. 0.20 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was applied to each hair tress and left for 5 minutes, followed by blow drying. The tresses were then evaluated by five expert panelists for hair fiber stiffness, natural feel (non-artificial styling feel) and smoothness.

[0200] The stiffness, natural feel and smoothness were evaluated according to the following criteria (1 to 5). Benchmark refers to the evaluation result for the hair tress applied in Comparative Example 1, i.e., the application of the composition not containing sugar alcohol or amino acid. 5: Much better than the benchmark 4: Better than benchmark 3: On par with benchmarks 2: Lower than benchmark 1: Much lower than the benchmark

[0201] The scores thus obtained were averaged, and the results are shown in Table 4 below.

[0202] [Table 2]

[0203] [result] (strength analysis)

[0204] [Table 3]

[0205] As can be seen from the results shown in Table 3, it was found that the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, each of which contains at least one plant extract, at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid for stiffening keratin fibers, were able to impart greater strength to hair.

[0206] In contrast, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-2, which did not include at least one sugar alcohol, did not show increased strength of the hair.

[0207] Therefore, it can be said that the addition of sugar alcohols can provide volumizing benefits and better integration with the keratin fibers.

[0208] (Sensory evaluation)

[0209] [Table 4]

[0210] Comparative Example 1 was used as the benchmark in Table 4.

[0211] As can be seen from the results shown in Table 4, it was interestingly found that the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 comprising at least one plant extract, at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid for stiffening keratin fibres were able to increase the stiffness of the fibres.

[0212] The feeling of stiffness of fiber is often considered to be similar to the feeling of styling products, which is unnatural and may give users negative impressions.However, by adding at least one plant extract for hardening keratin fiber, at least one sugar alcohol, and at least one amino acid, particularly arginine, it can reduce the feeling of styling products, improve natural feeling, and increase smoothness, while still maintaining or increasing the stiffness of fiber.

[0213] In contrast, the composition according to Comparative Example 2, which did not include at least one sugar alcohol, did not exhibit increased fiber hardness when compared to the composition according to Comparative Example 1. Also, the composition according to Comparative Example 2 did not exhibit a change in its sensation compared to the composition according to Comparative Example 1.

[0214] It should be noted that the composition comprising at least one plant extract for stiffening keratin fibers, at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid can increase the strength and stiffness of hair tresses without a styling polymer. The increase in strength and / or stiffness of hair indicates that the addition of at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid can impart increased volume to hair.

[0215] It has also been found that a composition comprising at least one plant extract for stiffening keratin fibers, at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid, in particular arginine, improves the natural feel and increases smoothness.The improved natural feel and smoothness show that the addition of at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid can provide cosmetic benefits such that the increased strength and / or stiffness of the hair obtained by the composition does not appear fake or artificial.

[0216] Therefore, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention can provide the benefit of adding volume without styling polymers, and a better cosmetic acceptability with improved natural feel and smoothness, especially for topical cosmetic compositions for hair.In addition, since the composition according to the present invention is in aqueous form, it is assumed that the composition provides a less sticky feel than oil-based compositions.

[0217] It can therefore be concluded that the cosmetic composition according to the invention is highly preferred as a topical cosmetic composition for caring for and / or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular hair.

Claims

1. A composition for caring for keratinous fibers, comprising: (a) at least one plant extract for stiffening keratin fibers; (b) at least one sugar alcohol; (c) at least one amino acid; A composition comprising:

2. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) at least one plant extract is a plant extract from a plant of the Nymphaeaceae family.

3. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) the at least one plant extract is a root extract from a plant of the Nymphaeaceae family.

4. Plants of the Nymphaeaceae family include Nymphaea plants, such as Nymphaea alba (white water lily), Nymphaea odorata (fragrant water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (Australian water lily), Nymphaea colorata (blue pygmy water lily), Nymphaea mexicana (yellow water lily), Nymphaea rubra (indoor water lily), Nymphaea lotus (Egyptian white water lily), Nymphaea tropicalis, Nymphaea tetragona (small water lily) and Nymphaea cv. (small water lily); 3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the plant is selected from the group consisting of Victoria plants, such as Victoria regia and Victoria cruziana (Paraguay water lily); Euryale plants, such as Euryale ferox (water lily); and Nuphar plants, such as Nuphar pumirum var. oseense, Nuphar japonicum, Nuphar svintegelimum, Nuphar japonicum f. rubrotinctum and Nuphar lutea sp. polysepara (Rocky Mountain water lily); and mixtures thereof.

5. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) the at least one sugar alcohol comprises at least two types of sugar alcohol.

6. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) the at least one sugar alcohol comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol in combination with at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol.

7. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) the at least one sugar alcohol is selected from the group consisting of erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, and xylitol.

8. The composition of claim 1 , wherein (c) the amino acid comprises a basic amino acid.

9. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) the amino acid is arginine.

10. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) at least one plant extract is present in a range of 0.0001% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably 0.001% to 0.05% by weight, or in particular 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) the at least one sugar alcohol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) the at least one amino acid is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. 10. The composition of claim 1 in the form of an aqueous solution.

14. 2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising the oil in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous fibers a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.

Images