Makeup composition for eyelashes
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2023006597
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-01-19
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing compositions for keratin fibers, particularly eyelashes, lack long-lasting curl maintenance and resistance properties.
A composition containing C8-C30 acrylic polymers with alkyl side chains, resistance imparting agents such as fillers, non-phenyl silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils, which provide improved long-term resistance and curl maintenance.
The composition achieves enhanced curl retention and resistance to water, sebum, and heat, maintaining the curl and integrity of keratin fibers for an extended period.
Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for making up keratin fibres, preferably eyelashes, such as a mascara, as well as methods and uses relating to said composition. [Background technology]
[0002] A strong curling effect with long-lasting properties is one of the important features for makeup of keratin fibers, preferably eyelashes, such as mascara products.For example, FR3111556A1 and FR3088201A1 disclose technical matters related to compositions for makeup and / or care of keratin materials such as eyelashes and eyebrows and their contours, which have semi-permanent makeup and / or care effects.
[0003] However, there remains a need for compositions for keratinous fibers, particularly eyelashes, that are capable of providing curl maintenance benefits with long-lasting properties to keratinous fibers. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0004] [Patent Document 1] FR3111556A1 [Patent Document 2] FR3088201A1 [Patent Document 3] U.S. Patent No. 5,538,793 [Patent Document 4] DE10 2008 012 457 [Non-patent literature]
[0005] [Non-Patent Document 1] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0006] It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition for keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes, in particular a mascara, which is capable of imparting improved long-term wear and curl retention benefits to the keratinous fibers. [Means for solving the problem]
[0007] The above object of the present invention is to (a) at least one C8-C 30 at least one acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains; (b) at least one resistance imparting agent selected from (b-1) a filler, (b-2) a non-phenyl silicone oil, and (b-3) a phenyl silicone oil; (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil; This can be achieved by a composition comprising:
[0008] (a) Acrylic polymer C8-C 30 The alkyl side chains may be linear and saturated.
[0009] (a) The acrylic polymer is a polymer having at least one (meth)acrylic acid (C8 to C 30 ) alkyl.
[0010] (Meth)acrylic acid (C8-C 30 )Alkyl may be selected from isodecyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, isostearyl (meth)acrylate, behenyl (meth)acrylate, and hexadecyl (meth)acrylate.
[0011] (a) The acrylic polymer is not crosslinked.
[0012] (b) The resistance imparting agent may include (b-1) a filler selected from lauroyl lysine, talc, cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
[0013] The (b) resistance imparting agent may comprise (b-2) a non-phenyl silicone oil selected from nonvolatile non-phenyl silicone oils.
[0014] The (b) resistance imparting agent may comprise (b-2) at least one non-phenyl silicone oil selected from linear non-phenyl silicone oils.
[0015] (c) The hydrocarbon-based oil may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0016] (c) The hydrocarbon-based oil may comprise at least two types of hydrocarbon-based oil.
[0017] (a) at least one C8-C 30 The acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains may be present in an amount of 10% to 70% by weight, preferably 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably 30% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0018] The (b) resistance imparting agents may be present in a total amount of from 0.5% to 20% by mass, preferably from 1% to 15% by mass, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0019] The (c) hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in an amount of from 10% to 70% by mass, preferably from 20% to 60% by mass, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0020] The composition according to the invention may contain water in an amount of less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or may be anhydrous.
[0021] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up keratinous fibres, preferably eyelashes, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0022] As a result of extensive investigation, the present inventors have discovered that the combination of components (a) to (c) can produce a composition for keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, in particular a mascara composition, which can provide improved long-term durability and curl retention effects to keratinous fibers.
[0023] Therefore, the composition according to the invention (a) at least one C8-C 30 At least one acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains; (b) at least one resistance imparting agent selected from (b-1) a filler, (b-2) a non-phenyl silicone oil, and (b-3) a phenyl silicone oil; (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil; A composition comprising:
[0024] The composition according to the invention is capable of providing improved long-term durability and curl retention to keratinous fibers, preferably eyelashes, i.e., the composition according to the invention is capable of providing a very strong deposit on the keratinous fibers so as to maintain the curl for a long time.
[0025] The composition according to the invention is preferably intended for the eyelashes, in particular it is useful as a mascara.
[0026] The compositions, methods and uses according to the invention are described in more detail below.
[0027] [Composition] (At least one C8~C 30 Acrylic polymer with alkyl chains The composition according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one C8-C 30At least one acrylic polymer having an alkyl side chain. 30 Acrylic polymers having alkyl side chains may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acrylic polymer or a combination of different types of acrylic polymers may be used.
[0028] (a) at least one C8-C 30 Acrylic polymers with alkyl side chains are C8-C 30 It may be hydrophobic due to the alkyl side chain. Thus, (a) at least one C8-C 30 Acrylic polymers with alkyl side chains can improve or enhance the durability of the compositions according to the present invention against water and sebum.
[0029] C8~C 30 Alkyl side chains, as used herein, are defined as having at least one C-C 30 It means a side chain or pendant group that contains an alkyl moiety. Therefore, (a) at least one C8-C 30 Acrylic polymers with alkyl side chains have a polymer backbone or main chain derived from acrylic or acrylate monomers and at least one C8-C 30 It has at least one side chain that includes an alkyl moiety.
[0030] C8~C 30 The alkyl side chain is preferably C9-C 28 , more preferably C 10 ~C 26 , and even more preferably C 12 ~C 24 , with priority given to C 14 ~C 22 , especially C 16 ~C 20 It may also be an alkyl side chain.
[0031] C8~C 30 The alkyl side chain may be linear or branched, preferably linear. 30The alkyl side chains may be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.
[0032] C8~C 30 The alkyl side chain is linear and saturated, C8-C 30 It may also be an alkyl side chain.
[0033] (a) The acrylic polymer carrying at least one taurate side chain may have a number average molecular weight in the range from 1 000 to 20 000 000 g / mol, preferably in the range from 20 000 to 5 000 000 g / mol and even more preferentially in the range from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g / mol.
[0034] (a) at least one C8-C 30 The acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains has at least one C8-C 30 The acrylic polymer can be obtained from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer having an alkyl moiety. This is because (a) the acrylic polymer can be obtained from at least one C8-C 30 It means that it may contain at least one unit derived from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer having an alkyl moiety.
[0035] At least one C8~C 30 The monomer having an alkyl moiety is (C8-C) of (meth)acrylic acid. 30 ) alkyl esters, i.e. (meth)acrylic acid (C8-C 30 This means that the (a) acrylic polymer can be selected from at least one (meth)acrylic acid (C8 to C 30 ) alkyl.
[0036] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, (meth)acrylic acid (C8 to C 30)Alkyl may be selected from isodecyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, isostearyl (meth)acrylate, behenyl (meth)acrylate, and hexadecyl (meth)acrylate.
[0037] (a) at least one C8-C 30 The acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains may be a copolymer. In this case, at least one C8-C 30 In addition to the at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer having an alkyl side chain, at least one additional comonomer may also be used. The additional comonomer may be an ethylenically unsaturated monomer selected from (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, and mixtures thereof.
[0038] (a) at least one C8-C 30 The acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains may be crosslinked or uncrosslinked. Preferably, it comprises (a) at least one C8-C 30 The acrylic polymers having alkyl side chains are not crosslinked.
[0039] (a) at least one C8-C 30 Commercially available acrylic polymers having alkyl side chains include acrylates / stearyl methacrylate copolymers.
[0040] (a) at least one C8-C 30 The amount of acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, more preferably 30% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0041] (a) at least one C8-C 30 The amount of acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains may be up to 70% by weight, preferably up to 60% by weight, more preferably up to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0042] (a) at least one C8-C 30 The amount of the acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains may be from 10% to 70% by mass, preferably from 20% to 60% by mass, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0043] (Resistance imparting agent) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (b) resistance-imparting agent. Two or more (b) resistance-imparting agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of resistance-imparting agent or a combination of different types of resistance-imparting agents may be used.
[0044] The resistance imparting agent of the present invention is selected from (b-1) a filler, (b-2) a non-phenyl silicone oil, and (b-3) a phenyl silicone oil. The (b) resistance imparting agent may comprise any one of (b-1) a filler, (b-2) a non-phenyl silicone oil, and (b-3) a phenyl silicone oil, or the (b) resistance imparting agent may comprise (b-1) a filler, (b-2) a non-phenyl silicone oil, and / or (b-3) a phenyl silicone oil in any combination.
[0045] - Filler The (b-1) filler may include a single type of filler or a combination of two or more types of fillers.
[0046] The term "filler" should be understood to mean mineral or synthetic particles of any shape that are insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is prepared.
[0047] The (b-1) filler of the present invention can provide mechanical toughness to the composition, resulting in stronger adhesion of the composition, particularly resistance to higher temperatures, and therefore the (b-1) filler can provide such resistance to the composition.
[0048] The fillers may be of any shape, regardless of the crystalline form (eg lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.), and may be platelet-shaped, spherical, or oblong.
[0049] The fillers may be inorganic or organic powders and may or may not be surface coated.
[0050] The average particle size of the filler is not limited, but generally is 100 μm or less, preferably 50 μm or less, more preferably 10 μm or less. The average particle size of the filler is 0.01 μm or more, preferably 0.05 μm or more, more preferably 0.1 μm or more. The term "average particle size" as used herein refers to the number-average size mean diameter given by statistical particle size distribution for half of the population, and is referred to as D50. For example, the number-average size mean diameter can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as the Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
[0051] It should be noted that the filler (b-1) of the present invention is different from a “pigment.” A pigment is generally characterized by an average particle size of 200 μm or more.
[0052] Inorganic fillers include talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, trimethylsiloxysilicate or silylated silica, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, metal soaps, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof, which may be optionally hydrophilically or hydrophobically treated. The metal soap may be a metal soap derived from an organic carboxylic acid containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate.
[0053] Examples of organic fillers include acrylic polymer powder, silicone powder, wax powder, polyamide powder, urethane polymer powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, polyacrylonitrile powder, poly-β-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, cellulose powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] Acrylic polymer powders can include polymethyl methacrylate powder, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, lauryl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate powder, and expanded hollow particles of acrylonitrile (co)polymers such as acrylonitrile / methacrylate / vinylidene chloride copolymers.
[0055] Examples of acrylic polymer powders include: a powder of crosslinked polymethylmethacrylate, for example "Covabead LH85" sold by LC Wackherr, or a powder of non-crosslinked polymethylmethacrylate, for example SJ Touch 1 sold by Nippon Junyaku Co., Ltd. - a powder of methyl methacrylate / butyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Seppic under the name Sepipress M; - a powder of methyl acrylate / ethylene copolymer sold by Kobo Products Inc. under the name EMAA; - powders of methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate crosslinked copolymers, such as those sold by Ganz Chemical under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820, by Sekisui Plastics under the name Techpolymer MBP-8, or by Sunjin Chemical under the name SUNPMMA-S; - polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, for example "Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge Skin Oil Adsorber" sold by the company Dow Corning, - a powder of methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate crosslinked copolymer sold by Ganz Chemical under the name Ganzpearl PM 030; - polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders, such as "Poly-Pore L200" or "Poly-Pore E200" sold by the company Amcol, lauryl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer powder, for example "Polytrap 6603" sold by Dow Corning, - acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer powder, for example "Techpolymer ACP-8C" sold by Sekisui Chemical Co., Ltd. - acrylonitrile / methacrylate / vinylidene chloride copolymer powders sold under the name Expancel by the company Expancel under the references 551 DE 50, 551 DE 20, 551 DE 12, 551 DE 80 and 461 DE 50.
[0056] As polyurethane powders, mention may be made of powders of crosslinked polyurethanes, including copolymers containing trimethylolhexyllactone, such as the hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolhexyllactone polymers sold under the names Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® by the company Toshiki.
[0057] Examples of silicone powders include organopolysilsesquioxane powders, organopolysiloxane powders, and silicone resin powders.
[0058] The organopolysilsesquioxane powder is preferably a polymethylsilsesquioxane powder. Examples of polymethylsilsesquioxane powders include the materials sold under the trade name "TOSPEARL" by Momentive Performance Materials, Inc., and the materials sold under the names MSP-N050 and MSP-N080 by Nikko Rica Corporation.
[0059] The organopolysiloxane powder may be elastomeric or non-elastomeric, it is preferred to use elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders or organopolysiloxane elastomer powders.
[0060] The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes can, for example, be crosslinked, and via a crosslinking addition reaction, preferably in the presence of, for example, a platinum catalyst, of at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen-containing diorganopolysiloxane and at least one silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated group-containing diorganopolysiloxane; or via a dehydrogenative cross-linking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydroxyl end group and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, preferably in the presence of, for example, an organotin compound; or via a cross-linking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydroxyl end group and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or via thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes, preferably in the presence of, for example, organoperoxide catalysts; or Through crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet light, or electron beams. can be obtained.
[0061] Elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders that can be used include those sold by Dow Corning under the names "Dow Corning 9505 Powder" and "Dow Corning 9506 Powder." These powders have the INCI name: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
[0062] The elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder may be selected, for example, from elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with a silicone resin, for example with a silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 5,538,793, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. Such elastomeric powders are sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104" and "KSP-105", and have the INCI name Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.
[0063] Other elastomeric organopolysiloxanes in the form of spherical powders may be powders of hybrid silicones functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, such as that sold under the name "KSP-200" by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and powders of hybrid silicones functionalized with phenyl groups, such as that sold under the name "KSP-300" by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
[0064] Among the wax powders, mention may be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 350® by Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as paraffin wax powders, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders, microwaxes formed from mixtures of carnauba wax and polyethylene waxes, such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by Micro Powders, microwaxes formed from mixtures of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by Micro Powders, and polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders.
[0065] Polyamide powders which may be mentioned include those sold under the name "Orgasol" by the company Atochem. These polyamide powder particles are further known under the names "Nylon 12" or "Nylon 6" due to their different physicochemical properties. Polyamide powders useful in the present invention may also include those sold under the name SP500 by Toray Industries, Inc.
[0066] Preferred fillers of the present invention include lauroyl lysine, talc, cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
[0067] (b-1) The filler, if present, is generally in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0068] - Non-phenyl silicone oil (b-2) The non-phenyl silicone oil may include a single type of non-phenyl silicone oil or a combination of two or more types of non-phenyl silicone oil.
[0069] As used herein, "oil" means a compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C) and that has a water solubility of less than 0.5% by mass at 25°C.
[0070] The term "silicone oil" as used herein refers to an oil that contains at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
[0071] The terms "non-phenyl silicone oil" or "non-phenylated silicone oil" refer to silicone oils that do not contain any phenyl groups.
[0072] The non-phenyl silicone oil (b-2) of the present invention can impart adhesiveness to keratin fibers, particularly eyelashes, to the composition. Therefore, the non-phenyl silicone oil (b-2) can impart durability to the composition.
[0073] The non-phenyl silicone oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0074] The term "volatile" as used herein means a material that has a flash point below 100° C. The term "non-volatile" as used herein means a material that has a flash point above 100° C.
[0075] Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compounds that are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (10 -3 The vapor pressure is in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), specifically, in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg), and more specifically, in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0076] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and is particularly suitable for use in treating keratinous fibers that are at least 10 -3 Refers to oils that have a vapor pressure of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0077] The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil preferably has a viscosity at 25° C. of 8 to 5,000 centistokes (cSt) (10 -6 m 2 / s), more preferentially from 10 to 1000 cSt, more particularly from 50 to 500 cSt and even better still from 50 to 150 cSt. The viscosity may be measured according to standard DIN 53018.
[0078] Representative examples of these non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones); alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, thiol groups and / or amine groups.
[0079] Among the non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned are thus: - PDMS containing pendant and / or at the ends of silicone chains alkyl or alkoxy groups, each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; - PDMS containing functional groups such as aliphatic groups or hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, - polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with fluorinated groups, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxane; - polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, for example dihydroxydimethylsiloxane (dimethiconol); - polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, - A mixture of these.
[0080] According to one embodiment, the non-phenylated silicone oil is chosen from linear non-phenylated silicone oils.
[0081] According to one embodiment, the non-phenylated silicone oil is chosen from linear, non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils.
[0082] The linear, non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils are in particular those of the formula:
[0083] [ka]
[0084] (In the formula, R1, R2, R5 and R6, together or separately, are an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R3 and R4, together or separately, are an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl group, an amine group, or a hydroxyl group; X is an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, or an amine group; n and p are integers selected to have a fluid composition. The silicone may be selected from the following:
[0085] Among the non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils which may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: - the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent methyl groups and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as, for example, the product sold under the name SE30 by General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500 000 by Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by Bluestar and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by Dow Corning; - the substituents R1 to R6 and X denote methyl groups and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 300 000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 300 000 by the company Wacker; the substituents R1 to R6 and X are methyl groups and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker; the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent methyl groups and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning; - the substituents R1 to R6 represent methyl groups, the X group represents a hydroxyl group and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.
[0086] The volatile non-phenylated silicone oils can be chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, for example Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, of the formula:
[0087] [ka]
[0088] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane. (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a molecular weight of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2Linear, volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than 10000 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Annex C.
[0089] (b-2) The non-phenyl silicone oil is preferably selected from non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils, more preferably linear non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils such as dimethicone.
[0090] (b-2) Non-phenyl silicone oils, if present, are generally present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] - Phenyl silicone oil (b-3) The phenylsilicone oil may include a single type of phenylsilicone oil or a combination of two or more types of phenylsilicone oil.
[0092] The phenyl silicone oil (b-3) of the present invention can provide the composition with adhesiveness to keratin fibers, particularly eyelashes, and therefore can provide durability to the composition.
[0093] The phenylsilicone oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.
[0094] Representative examples of these non-volatile phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned are: - The following formula:
[0095] [ka]
[0096] In formula (I), the R groups are each independently methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group is phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least 3, such as at least 4, at least 5 or at least 6 phenyl groups. Equivalent phenyl silicone oil. - The following formula:
[0097] [ka]
[0098] In formula (II), the R groups are each independently methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group is phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the organopolysiloxane comprises at least three, such as at least four or at least five, phenyl groups. Mixtures of the aforementioned phenylorganopolysiloxanes may also be used. Examples that may be mentioned are mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenylorganopolysiloxanes. - The following formula:
[0099] [ka]
[0100] [In formula (III), Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl] Such phenylsilicone oils are in particular manufactured by the company Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. - The following formula:
[0101] [ka]
[0102] [In formula (IV), Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents -CH2-CH(CH3)(Ph)] Equivalent phenyl silicone oil. - The following formula (V):
[0103] [ka]
[0104] [In formula (V), Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR′ represents a —OSiMe group, y is 0 or ranges from 1 to 1000, and z ranges from 1 to 1000, such that compound (V) is a non-volatile oil.] According to a first embodiment, y ranges between 1 and 1000. Use can be made, for example, of trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker. According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. Use can be made, for example, of phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. - Formula (VI):
[0105] [ka]
[0106] [In formula (VI), - R1~R 10 are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 is a hydrocarbon group, m, n, p and q are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0, and preferably the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900, and even better still between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. - Formula (VII):
[0107] [ka]
[0108] [In formula (VII), R1 to R6 are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 is a hydrocarbon group, m, n and p are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, and preferably R1 to R6 are, independently of one another, saturated, linear or branched C1 to C 30 , especially C1~C 12 represents a hydrocarbon group, specifically a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, and R1 to R6 may in particular be identical and may additionally be a methyl group. and mixtures thereof. Preferably, in formula (VII), m=1 or 2 or 3 and / or n=0 and / or p=0 or 1 may apply. - Formula (VIII):
[0109] [ka]
[0110] [In formula (VIII), - R is C1~C 30 is an alkyl group, an aryl group, or an aralkyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100; - m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100. and mixtures thereof. In particular, the R groups of formula (VIII) and the R1 to R2 groups defined above 10 are each a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, particularly C2-C 20 Alkyl groups, especially C3-C 16 Alkyl groups, more specifically C4-C 10 Represents an alkyl group, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C 14 and especially C. 10 ~C 13 It can represent an aryl group or an aralkyl group, the aryl and alkyl residues of which are as previously defined. Preferably, R and R to R of formula (VIII) 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group. According to one embodiment, the viscosity at 25° C. is between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (i.e., 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably with a viscosity of 5 to 1000 mm 2Phenyl silicone oils of formula (VIII) can be used, which have a viscosity between 0.1 and 0.25 g / s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt). As phenyl silicone oils of formula (VIII), it is particularly possible to use phenyl trimethicones, such as DC556 (22.5 cSt) from Dow Corning, oil Silbione 70663V30 (28 cSt) from Rhone-Poulenc, or diphenyl dimethicones, such as Belsil oils, in particular Belsil PDM 1000 (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. The values in brackets represent the viscosity at 25°C. - The following formula:
[0111] [ka]
[0112] [In formula (IX), R1, R2, R5 and R6, together or separately, are an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R3 and R4, together or separately, are an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl group; X is an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, or a vinyl group; n and p are selected to give the oil a weight average molecular weight of less than 200,000 g / mol, preferably less than 150,000 g / mol, more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol. Phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the above, and mixtures thereof.
[0113] Phenylsilicones most particularly suitable for use in the present invention may correspond to formula (II) herein above, and in particular to formulas (III), (V) and (VIII).
[0114] More specifically, the phenyl silicones may be selected from phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl-trimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl siloxy silicate, and mixtures thereof.
[0115] Preferably, the mass average molecular weight of the phenyl silicone oil used according to the present invention may be in the range of 500 to 10000 g / mol.
[0116] The amount of the (b) resistance imparting agent in the composition according to the present invention may be in total 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 2% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0117] The amount of (b) resistance imparting agent in the composition according to the present invention may be a total of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0118] The amount of the resistance imparting agent (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass, in total relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0119] (Hydrocarbon oil) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one hydrocarbon-based oil. Two or more (c) hydrocarbon-based oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrocarbon-based oil or a combination of different types of hydrocarbon-based oils may be used.
[0120] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" (or "hydrocarbonized oil" or "hydrocarbon oil") means an oil essentially formed or even composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and which does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
[0121] The hydrocarbon oil may be a non-polar oil.
[0122] The hydrocarbon-based oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0123] In one embodiment, the term "non-volatile oil" refers to a non-volatile oil having a density of exactly 0.01 mg / cm at room temperature and pressure. 2 The term "volatile oil" means an oil having an evaporation rate of less than 0.01 mg / cm3 / min at room temperature and pressure. 2 This refers to oil that has an evaporation rate of 1 / min or more.
[0124] (c) The hydrocarbon oil is preferably volatile.
[0125] According to one embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point above 65°C, and even better above 80°C.
[0126] Volatile hydrocarbon oils are selected from hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially branched C8-C 16 It may be selected from alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0127] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made of n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof, or branched C8-C 16 Branched esters such as esters, for example, isohexyl neopentanoate.
[0128] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may also be used, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE 10 2008 012 457 from Cognis.
[0129] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may preferably be selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0130] In one embodiment of the present invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point of 65° C. or higher, preferably 80° C. or higher.
[0131] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as fatty acid triglycerides containing more than 16 carbon atoms, for example caprylic / capric triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; branched C triglycerides such as those sold under the name DUB TGI 24® by Stearineries Dubois; 18 ~C 36 Triglycerides of fatty acids and glycerol (INCI name: C18-36 acid triglycerides); - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam® or squalene; and - A mixture of these.
[0132] (c) The hydrocarbon oil is preferably a volatile hydrocarbon oil, more preferably a branched C-C 16 It is selected from alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0133] In one particular embodiment of the present invention, the (c) hydrocarbon-based oil is preferably a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more preferably a branched C-C 16 It comprises at least two types of hydrocarbon-based oils selected from alkanes, in particular isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0134] The amount of (c) the hydrocarbon-based oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 10 mass % or more, preferably 20 mass % or more, more preferably 30 mass % or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0135] The amount of (c) the hydrocarbon-based oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 70 mass % or less, preferably 60 mass % or less, more preferably 10 mass % or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0136] The amount of (c) hydrocarbon oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by mass to 70% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 60% by mass, and more preferably 30% by mass to 50% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0137] (Optional Ingredients) - Pigments The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pigment. Two or more pigments may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of pigment or a combination of different types of pigments may be used.
[0138] The term "pigments" means white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous media and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition. These pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.
[0139] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used in the present invention are selected from mineral pigments. The term "mineral pigment" means any inorganic pigment. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of metal oxides such as zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, titanium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, as well as manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder, or any combination thereof. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixtures with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2 or ZnS. In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more specifically iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.
[0140] The average particle size of the coated pigments is generally 200 nm or more. The average particle size of the coated pigments according to the invention may range from 200 nm to 25 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 μm. For the purposes of the present invention, the D50 size or the volume average size corresponds to the particle size defined such that 50% by volume of the particles have a size above D50. The volume average size can be evaluated by light diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser particle size analyzer, the particles being evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium, for example in octyldodecyl neopentanoate.
[0141] Pigments may also be pearlescent and / or metallic particles. The term "pearlescent" should be understood to mean any shape of iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles, which are produced in particular by certain mollusks in their shells or are synthesized, and which have a color effect through optical interference.
[0142] The pearlescent agents can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxide and / or organic dye are superimposed.
[0143] The pigment of the present invention is hydrophobically surface-treated. In other words, the pigment of the present invention has a hydrophobic coating. The hydrophobic coating preferably comprises at least one hydrophobic compound selected from fatty substances, silicone surface agents, fluorinated surface agents, fluorosilicone surface agents, metal soaps, N-acylated amino acids and their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl titanium triisostearate, isostearyl sebacate, phospholipids and mixtures thereof.
[0144] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic surface treated pigment is coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
[0145] The type of fatty substance is not limited: a single type of fatty substance or a combination of different types of fatty substances can be used.
[0146] As used herein, the term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound that is insoluble in water (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.1%) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Fatty substances may contain in their structure at least one consecutive siloxane group of at least two or at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least six carbon atoms. Fatty substances are generally lipophilic substances and may be soluble in organic solvents, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0147] In one embodiment, the fatty material is an oil. As used herein, "oil" refers to any fatty material that is not in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Any oil suitable for cosmetic use can be used in the present invention. Suitable oils may include both volatile and non-volatile oils.
[0148] The fatty materials may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils and waxes, preferably from hydrocarbon oils and waxes.
[0149] The hydrocarbon oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil of animal, vegetable, mineral, or synthetic origin.
[0150] Examples of animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oils may include, but are not limited to, squalene, perhydrosqualene, and squalane.
[0151] The hydrocarbon oil of plant origin may include the oil known as vegetable oil or vegetable oil.The example of the hydrocarbon oil of plant origin may include, but is not limited to, jojoba oil, avocado oil, olive oil, dog rose oil, sweet almond oil, coriander oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, shea butter oil, palm oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, almond oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, sesame seed oil, canola oil, apricot oil, mango oil, walnut oil, poppy seed oil, barley oil, rye oil, and mixtures thereof. Among them, jojoba oil, particularly jojoba seed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, particularly olive fruit oil, rosehip oil, particularly rosehip fruit oil, and mixtures thereof may be preferably used.
[0152] The hydrocarbon-based oil of mineral or synthetic origin may be volatile or non-volatile, and examples of such oils may include, but are not limited to, liquid paraffin, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum (mineral oil), hydrogenated isoparaffin or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, perhydrosqualene, polydecene, isohexadecane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof. Among them, mineral oil is particularly preferably used.
[0153] In one embodiment, the fatty material is a wax. As used herein, "wax" refers to a fatty material that is substantially solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and has a melting point of, for example, 30°C or higher. Representative examples of such waxes may include waxes of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin, such as candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, ouricle wax, sugarcane wax, paraffin wax, lanolin wax, montan wax, and ozokerite, hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes of synthetic origin, such as polyethylene wax, and silicone waxes, such as alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxane or poly(di)methylsiloxane ester. Among them, preferably candelilla wax can be used.
[0154] The fatty material may also be selected from fatty acids, synthetic esters and ethers, fatty alcohols and fatty amides.
[0155] Examples of fatty acids include C 12 ~C 22 Higher fatty acids, e.g. C 12 ~C 22 Saturated fatty acids, e.g. stearic acid; C 12 ~C 22 Unsaturated fatty acids may be included, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid; and mixtures thereof.
[0156] Examples of synthetic esters and ethers may include, but are not limited to, oils of the formula R1COOR2 and R1-OR2, where R1 represents a residue of a fatty acid or fatty alcohol containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, pureserin oil, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl laurate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate or heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; or lipophilic derivatives of amino acids such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.
[0157] Other exemplary esters include, for example, 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate (or octyl monococoate), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate ... propyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), isopropyl isostearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl pelargonate (or octyl pelargonate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), decyl oleate, diisopropyl adipate, bis(ethylhexyl) oleate, (2-Ethylhexyl) adipate (or dioctyl adipate), diisocetyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate (or octyl succinate), diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl malate (or octyl malate), pentaerythrityl caprate / caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate (or octyl hexanoate), octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate may include isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate (or octyl 2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl octanoate (or octyl octanoate), and cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate.
[0158] The fatty alcohols that may be useful in the present invention may be non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more specifically 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols that may be preferably used in the present invention are in liquid form or not solid at room temperature. Examples of fatty alcohols may include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol, and linoleic alcohol. Myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and myricyl alcohol may also be used.
[0159] Examples of fatty amides include isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.
[0160] The fatty material may also be a volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.The examples of the volatile or non-volatile silicone oil preferably used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, cyclopolydimethylsiloxane (cyclomethicone), such as cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, phenylsilicone, such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate and polymethylphenylsiloxane.
[0161] Fluoro oils that may be suitable for the present invention may include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and nonafluoromethoxybutane.
[0162] Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon-based oils, waxes and mixtures thereof of vegetable or mineral origin, more preferably selected from the group consisting of jojoba oil, in particular jojoba seed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, in particular olive fruit oil, rosehip oil, in particular rosehip fruit oil, candelilla wax and mixtures thereof.
[0163] The silicone surface agent may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicon-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. The term organopolysiloxane refers to compounds having a structure containing alternating silicon and oxygen atoms and organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms.
[0164] The fluorinated surface agent may be selected from perfluoroalkylphosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, or polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkylperfluoropolyether groups. The term perfluoroalkyl group denotes an alkyl group in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.
[0165] The fluorosilicone surface agent may be selected from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes, and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxy silanes.
[0166] The hydrophobic compound may be selected from metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate. Specific examples of metal soaps include metal soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The metal of the metal soap may be, in particular, zinc or magnesium. As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof may be used.
[0167] The hydrophobic compound may also be selected from N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, which may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl groups. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid derivative may be, in particular, any of glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, more specifically, stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.
[0168] The amount of hydrophobic compound, preferably fatty substance, in the hydrophobic coating is at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobic coating.
[0169] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic surface treated pigment is selected from pigments coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, i.e. the surface of the pigment is coated or treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
[0170] The hydrophobic surface-treated pigment can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Also, commercially available products can be used. The surface agent of isopropyl titanium triisostearate can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted to the surface of the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and formation of covalent bonds.
[0171] The pigment may be present in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and / or in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0172] The amount of pigment in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0173] - Lipophilic gelling agent The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent. If two or more lipophilic gelling agents are used, they may be the same or different.
[0174] The term "lipophilic gelling agent" means an auxiliary capable of gelling the hydrocarbon-based oil in the composition according to the invention.
[0175] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent which is preferably particulate.
[0176] The term "particulate" lipophilic gelling agent means a lipophilic gelling agent that is in particulate or crystalline form (particulate or crystalline).
[0177] According to the invention, the lipophilic gelling agent is preferably chosen from organomodified clays.
[0178] Clay refers to materials based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.
[0179] The clays may be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with C10-C22 ammonium chlorides, especially alkyl ammonium salts such as stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
[0180] These clays may be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonite, hectorite and montmorillonite, beidellite, saponite, nontronite, sepiolite, biotite, attapulgite, vermiculite, and zeolites.
[0181] The organically modified clays may in particular be clays treated with compounds selected from quaternary and tertiary amines. Organically modified clays that may be mentioned include organically modified bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, and organically modified hectorites, such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 and Bentone 38 by the company Rheox. In particular, mention may be made of modified clays such as modified magnesium silylate (Bentone gel VS38 from the company Rheox), hectorites modified with C10-C22 fatty acid ammonium chlorides, such as modified hectorites modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis, or the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox, or the product sold under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the company Elementis.
[0182] The lipophilic gelling agent can also be selected from hydrophobic fumed silica, which can be obtained by modifying the surface of the silica through a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups, which are optionally replaced by hydrophobic groups in particular. The hydrophobic groups can be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating the fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are known as "silicic silylate" according to the CTFA Dictionary (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, by the company Degussa under the reference Aerosil R812® and by the company Cabot under the reference Cab-O-Sil TS-530®. The hydrophobic groups can be dimethylsilyloxyl groups or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating the fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "dimethylsilylated silicas" according to the CTFA Dictionary (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, by the company Degussa under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974®, and by the company Cabot under the references Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720®.
[0183] The lipophilic gelling agent is also, for example, the product sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate), whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per mass unit of 600-800 m 2 / g; furthermore, mention may be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1 100, Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
[0184] The lipophilic gelling agent may also be chosen from lipophilic polymeric thickeners which may be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol products (Carbomer) and Pemulen products (Acrylates / C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Copolymers) or polymers with the INCI name "Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate", such as the product Intelimer® from Air Products, for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1, which is a polystearyl acrylate, or the product 30 Intelimer® IPA 13-6, which is a behenyl polymer.
[0185] It may be preferred that the lipophilic gelling agent is an organo-modified clay, especially disteardimonium hectorite.
[0186] The amount of lipophilic gelling agent in the composition according to the invention may be more than 0.1% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 0.5% by weight, more preferably equal to or greater than 1% by weight, and / or equal to or less than 15% by weight, preferably equal to or less than 10% by weight, more preferably equal to or less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0187] The amount of lipophilic gelling agent in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0188] - Alkyl or alkylene carbonate The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate. A single type of alkyl or alkylene carbonate or a combination of different types of alkyl or alkylene carbonates may be used in the composition according to the invention.
[0189] The alkyl or alkylene carbonate may function as a thickening aid, acting in conjunction with the thickener to thicken the compositions of the present invention.
[0190] According to one embodiment, the alkylene chain of the alkylene carbonate and / or the alkyl group of the alkyl carbonate present in the composition according to the invention contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and are ultimately substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0191] According to another embodiment, the sum of the carbons of the alkylene chain of the alkylene carbonates and / or the sum of the carbons of the alkyl groups of the alkyl carbonates present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0192] The alkylene carbonate is in particular represented by the following formula (4):
[0193] [ka]
[0194] [In formula (4), R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; R" represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; m is 1, 2 or 3. The following are selected from:
[0195] Preferably, the R' group represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, a linear or branched C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group. R'' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C2 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1 to C2 hydroxyalkyl group. Preferably, m is 1.
[0196] Particularly advantageous examples of alkylene carbonates include those in which the R' group represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), an ethyl group (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate) or a hydroxymethyl group (R'=-CHOH; corresponding to glyceryl carbonate). Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.
[0197] The alkyl carbonate is in particular represented by the following formula (5): R'-O-C-O-R'' [In formula (5), R' represents a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; R″ represents a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; The sum of the carbons of R' and R'' ranges from 2 to 6. The above is selected from the following:
[0198] Preferably, the R' group represents a linear C1-C3 alkyl group or a linear C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group. R'' represents a linear C1-C3 alkyl group or a linear C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0199] More specifically, diethyl carbonate and dipropyl carbonate can be mentioned.
[0200] The carbonate according to the invention is preferably an alkylene carbonate, more particularly propylene carbonate.
[0201] The alkyl or alkylene carbonate may be present in an amount of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.2% by weight, more preferably at least 0.5% by weight, and / or in an amount of at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 3% by weight, more preferably at most 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0202] The amount of thickening aid in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by mass, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by mass, more preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0203] - Other optional additives The compositions according to the invention may also comprise any other additives normally used in the cosmetics field, for example chosen from solvents, gums, resins, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, fragrances, UV filters, vitamins, cosmetic active agents such as moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectants, and mixtures thereof.
[0204] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water in an amount of less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and most preferably is free of water.
[0205] In other words, in one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the invention does not contain any water or contains water in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0206] [Method and Use] The composition according to the invention can be used to coat keratinous fibres, and more preferably the eyelashes.
[0207] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used by a method for coating keratinous fibers, the method comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratinous fibers to form at least one coating on the keratinous fibers.
[0208] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up keratinous fibres, preferably eyelashes, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the invention.
[0209] The cosmetic method described above may be aimed at imparting curl to keratinous fibers as well as maintaining the curl of the keratinous fibers (ie, retaining the curl) with long-lasting properties. EXAMPLES
[0210] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by examples.However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.The following examples are presented as non-limiting examples in the field of the present invention.
[0211] (Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3) Cosmetic eyelash compositions (mascaras) of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 until homogeneous. All numerical values for component amounts are based on "mass %" of active ingredients.
[0212] [evaluation] (long-term durability) Each composition according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was applied to a plastic sheet having a thickness of 300 μm and left to dry at room temperature for 1 hour to prepare a deposit film. Droplets of artificial sebum or water were cast onto the surface of the dried deposit and kept in contact for 24 hours. After removing the droplets from the surface, the deposit was then evaluated for chemical resistance by rubbing the deposit with a finger. Evaluation of the resistance of the deposit was performed in terms of adhesion and decomposition of the deposit according to the following criteria: Very good: no damage was observed on the membrane. Good: Minor changes to the surface were observed, but no damage was observed. Poor: Damage was observed on the film and it was sticky. Very poor: The membrane is completely destroyed.
[0213] (Curl retention ability) Each composition according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was applied manually to the false eyelashes of six testers using a mascara brush (30 strokes each). The false eyelashes were dipped into various media according to the following process. 1) False eyelashes were successfully immersed in water, artificial sebum, and shower gel at room temperature for 1 minute and rubbed with a finger after each immersion in the solvent. This series of steps constitutes one cycle of the test. 2) The curl angle of the false eyelashes was analyzed using a VHS-5000 digital microscope. 3) Procedures 1 and 2 were repeated four times (a total of four cycles).
[0214] The curl was evaluated by comparing the difference in angle between the initial time and after 4 cycles. The curl retention ability of each composition was evaluated according to the following criteria: Very good: The curl angle was 30 degrees or greater. Good: The curl angle was greater than or equal to 15 degrees and less than 30 degrees. Poor: The curl angle was 10 degrees or more and less than 15 degrees. Very poor: The curl angle was less than 10 degrees.
[0215] (Hot water resistance) Each composition according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was applied to the false eyelashes by hand using a mascara brush (30 strokes each). The false eyelashes were immersed in a water bath at 45°C and kept in the medium for 1 hour with stirring. The false eyelashes were then rubbed with a finger (10 strokes) and the coating adhesion and coverage quality on the false eyelashes were evaluated according to the following criteria: Very good: no changes were observed in the coating of the false eyelashes. Good: slight changes were observed in the coating of the false eyelashes, but they were maintained. Poor: Some coating has been removed from the false eyelashes. Very poor: The coating was completely removed from the false eyelashes.
[0216] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0217] [Table 1]
[0218] As shown in Table 1, the cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 containing the combination of components (a) to (c) of the present invention exhibited improved durability and curl retention effects.
[0219] On the other hand, (a) at least one C8-C 30 The cosmetic compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which do not contain an acrylic polymer with an alkyl side chain, exhibited poor curl retention. In addition, the composition according to Comparative Example 2 also exhibited poor long-term resistance to sebum. Also, the cosmetic composition according to Comparative Example 3, which does not contain the resistance imparting agent of the present invention, exhibited poor resistance to hot water.
[0220] Accordingly, it can be seen that the composition according to the invention is highly suitable as a cosmetic composition for keratin fibres, in particular as a make-up composition for eyelashes, for example a mascara, since it is capable of providing keratin fibres with improved long-term durability and curl retention effects.
Claims
1. 1. A composition for keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes, comprising: (a) At least one C 8 ~C 30 at least one acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains; (b) at least one resistance imparting agent selected from (b-1) a filler, (b-2) a non-phenyl silicone oil, and (b-3) a phenyl silicone oil; (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil; A composition comprising:
2. (a) Acrylic polymer C 8 ~C 30 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the alkyl side chain is linear and saturated.
3. (a) The acrylic polymer is a polymer containing at least one (meth)acrylic acid (C 8 ~C 30 ) alkyl.
4. (Meth)acrylic acid (C 8 ~C 30 4. The composition of claim 3, wherein the alkyl is selected from isodecyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, isostearyl (meth)acrylate, behenyl (meth)acrylate, and hexadecyl (meth)acrylate.
5. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the (a) acrylic polymer is not crosslinked.
6. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) the resistance imparting agent comprises (b-1) at least one filler selected from lauroyl lysine, talc, cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
7. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein (b) the resistance imparting agent comprises (b-2) at least one non-phenyl silicone oil selected from non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils.
8. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein (b) the resistance imparting agent comprises (b-2) at least one non-phenyl silicone oil selected from linear non-phenyl silicone oils.
9. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
10. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) the hydrocarbon-based oil comprises at least two types of hydrocarbon-based oil.
11. (a) At least one C 8 ~C 30 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the acrylic polymer having alkyl side chains is present in an amount of 10% to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
12. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (b) resistance-imparting agents are present in a total amount of 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) the hydrocarbon-based oil is present in an amount of 10% to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
14. 10. The composition of claim 1, which contains water in an amount of 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, or is anhydrous.
15. A cosmetic method for making up keratin fibers, comprising: applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 onto keratin fibres; Beauty methods, including: