Cosmetic

Abstract

To provide a cosmetic for an emulsion base in which the liquid has a transparent to translucent appearance.SOLUTION: Provided is a cosmetic comprising the following components (A) to (H): (A) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil; (B) polyglyceryl-10 myristate; (C) glyceryl isostearate; (D) polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate; (E) oleyl alcohol; (F) glycerin; (G)phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate; and (H) water.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for use as an emulsion base containing dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl). [Background technology]

[0002] Emulsions are skin care cosmetics that are widely used to moisturize the skin. Emulsions contain a variety of emollient components that suppress water evaporation from the skin, keep the skin moist, and soften the skin. Examples of such emollient components include hydrocarbons such as squalane and mineral oil, waxes such as beeswax and jojoba seed oil, esters such as isopropyl myristate and cetyl ethylhexanoate, and vegetable oils such as soybean oil and olive fruit oil. However, many emollient components give the user a sticky feeling, so the sticky feeling is reduced by adding a component with a water-holding function that allows the oil itself to hold water to the liquid.

[0003] Examples of components with such water-holding properties include waxes such as lanolin, and esters such as dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) and di(cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate (see Non-Patent Document 1 below). The above-mentioned lanolin is a paste-like oily base derived from wool fat with excellent water-holding properties. However, since the 1990s, there has been a growing trend toward plant-derived raw materials as raw materials for cosmetics, and animal-derived raw materials such as lanolin have been avoided. The above-mentioned dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) was developed against this background.

[0004] Dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) is a dimer acid ester obtained by combining dilinoleic acid, which is a type of fatty acid, with a mixture of phytosterols, which are plant sterols as alcohol components, isostearyl alcohol having a branched chain, and cetanol, which is a linear alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol (see Non-Patent Documents 2 and 3 below).

[0005] This compound has been reported to have high water holding capacity, as well as viscosity behavior and texture similar to lanolin, and good spreadability (see Non-Patent Document 4 below). Regarding water holding capacity, 10 g of dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) was kneaded while adding 0.2 to 0.5 mL of purified water dropwise, and the water holding rate was measured as a percentage of the sample according to the water content measurement method for lanolin in the British Pharmacopoeia, and was found to be about 300%, indicating high water holding capacity equivalent to that of lanolin (see Non-Patent Document 5 below).

[0006] However, many emulsions remain white on the skin for a while after application, which may make the skin feel slow to absorb. One of the reasons for this negative image is thought to be the appearance of the milky liquid. Therefore, the present inventors came up with the idea of ​​developing an emulsion that is unlike an emulsion, that is, an emulsion that is not milky and is transparent to translucent. Some cosmetics, such as lotions, have liquids that appear transparent, but actually contain oily components due to solubilization. In the prior art, in which a water-holding oily component is solubilized and appears transparent, a product containing tetra(behenic acid / benzoic acid / ethylhexanoic acid)pentaerythritol as an oily component is known (see Patent Document 1 below). [Prior art documents] [Non-patent literature]

[0007] [Non-Patent Document 1] Cosmetic Ingredients Online Homepage (https: / / cosmetic-ingredients.org / emollient / ) [Non-Patent Document 2] Katayama, Tsuyoshi (2000) "New vegetable oils" Fragrance Journal (28) (12), 75-80. [Non-Patent Document 3] Nippon Fine Chemicals Co., Ltd. (2011) "Plandool" technical data [Non-Patent Document 4] Ohashi, Yukihiro (2003) "Development of a new vegetable oil base with lanolin-like properties and its application to cosmetics" Fragrance Journal (31) (11), 55-60. [Non-Patent Document 5] Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. "Plandool Series" technical documentation [Patent documents]

[0008] [Patent Document 1] JP 2013-189408 A Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0009] However, in the above Patent Document 1, the tetra(behenate / benzoate / ethylhexanoate)pentaerythritol used as a water-holding oil component in the examples has a water-holding rate of about 50%. In addition, macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl has a water-holding rate of 250%, and dimer dilinoleyl bis(phytosteryl / behenyl / isostearyl) dimer dilinoleate has a water-holding rate of 200%, both of which are lower than the above dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl).

[0010] Therefore, the present inventors attempted to replace the water-holding oily component (component (c)) with dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) in the examples disclosed in the above Patent Document 1, but the liquid preparation obtained was cloudy in appearance and did not become translucent (details will be described later).

[0011] The present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned problems, and has an object to provide a cosmetic preparation for use as an emulsion base, which contains dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) and has a liquid appearance that ranges from transparent to translucent. [Means for solving the problem]

[0012] In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic preparation comprising the following components (A) to (H): (A) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (B) Polyglyceryl-10 myristate (C) Glyceryl Isostearate (D) Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (E) Oleyl alcohol (F) Glycerin (G) Dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) (H)Water.

[0013] In the above cosmetic, the blending ratio of the above components expressed in mass % is preferably ((A)+(B)) / ((C)+(D))=2.3 to 2.6.

[0014] In the above cosmetic, the blending ratios of the above components in mass % are preferably (A) / (B) = 1.3 to 1.7, and (C) / (D) = 0.25 to 1.7.

[0015] In the above cosmetic, the blending ratios of the above components in terms of mass % are preferably (E) / (G)=1.0-1.4, and (F) / (E)=5-10.

[0016] In the above cosmetic preparation, the blending ratio of the above components expressed in mass % is preferably (C) / (G) = 0.85 to 1.0. Effect of the Invention

[0017] According to the present invention, by containing components (A) to (H), it is possible to obtain a cosmetic preparation for use as an emulsion base, in which the liquid has a transparent to translucent appearance. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0018] [Figure 1] FIG. 2 is a diagram for explaining a method for evaluating a cosmetic material produced in one embodiment of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0019] The following describes cosmetics for emulsion bases according to an embodiment of the present invention. In developing the cosmetics, the present inventors based their formulation on the general solubilization theory, blending a hydrophilic surfactant with a clarifying HLB (hydrophile-lipophile-balance) value of 14 or more and a lipophilic surfactant. The HLB value is the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, and is proposed as an index of the degree of compatibility of a surfactant with water and oil. A solubilizing effect is observed at an HLB value of 15 to 18, and a transparent solution is obtained at an HLB value of 14 to 20.

[0020] Next, we increased the concentration of the surfactant and searched for ingredients that would form effective micelles. In the process, we obtained a known technology that when two types of polyglycerol fatty acid esters, monoester and diester, are mixed with water, a fine oil-in-water emulsion is formed (December 1-2, 2022, 89th SCCJ Research Discussion Meeting, Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. "New Phase Inversion Emulsification Method Using Inverted Worm-Like Micelles"). This known technology improves the stability of cosmetics over time, adjusts the skin compatibility and feel, and improves the penetration of active ingredients into the epidermis. Specifically, a low-viscosity white cream is created by mixing mineral oil and purified water with low-speed stirring. The present inventors focused on this known technology as one of the means for forming micelles that can create fine particles.

[0021] In addition, the Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research Database website states that, under the research topic "Formation and structural control of reversed micelle-type thread-like micelles" (research period (year) 2008-2009), the reversed micelle structure of surfactants with mono- and diglycerin groups as lipophobic groups in various oils was investigated, and it was revealed that the larger the lipophobic group size and the larger the molecular weight of the oil, the longer the rod-like reversed micelles formed. Furthermore, it is also stated that it was revealed that these rod-like reversed micelles transition to a spherical shape by adding a small amount of water (https: / / kaken.nii.ac.jp / ja / grant / KAKENHI-PROJECT-08F08044). Therefore, the present inventors changed the formulation to one that would become a lotion, and conducted extensive research into the combination of two types of available polyglycerin fatty acid esters. As a result, it was found that polyglyceryl-10 myristate and polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate were effective in forming micelles incorporating dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) inside.

[0022] However, it was still not possible to create a translucent emulsion by simply blending the above hydrophilic surfactant and lipophilic surfactant. On the other hand, we discovered that by adding oleyl alcohol, it was possible to create a translucent emulsion of dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), and this cosmetic was completed.

[0023] The present cosmetic contains the following components (A) to (H). (A) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (B) Polyglyceryl-10 myristate (C) Glyceryl Isostearate (D) Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (E) Oleyl alcohol (F) Glycerin (G) Dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) (H)Water.

[0024] Component (A), a hydrophilic surfactant with an HLB value of 14 or more, which is the basis of the clarifying formulation, is preferably PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil with an HLB value of 14 (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.: product name NIKKOL HCO-60), and the amount blended is preferably 0.65 to 3.75 mass%. Component (C), a lipophilic surfactant, which is also the basis of the formulation, is preferably glyceryl isostearate (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.: product name NIKKOL MGIS), and the amount blended is preferably 0.25 to 1.5 mass%. Component (B), which is used to increase the concentration of the hydrophilic surfactant to form micelles, is preferably polyglyceryl-10 myristate (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.: product name NIKKOL Decaglyn 1-M), and the amount blended is preferably 0.45 to 3.5 mass%. Component (D) for increasing the concentration of lipophilic surfactant to form micelles is polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (manufactured by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.: product name Lysolex PGIS22), and the blending amount is preferably 0.18 to 1.4 mass%. Solubilizing aid (E) is oleyl alcohol (manufactured by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.: product name Oleyl Alcohol VP), and the blending amount is preferably 0.3 to 2.1 mass%. Component (G), which is a water-holding oily component, is dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) (manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.: product name Plandool-S), and the blending amount is preferably 0.3 to 1.5 mass%. Component (F) for increasing the transparency of the cosmetic is glycerin, and the blending amount is preferably 1.5 to 4.5 mass%.

[0025] In the method for producing the present cosmetic preparation, components (A) to (E) and component (G) were mixed and heated to 70-80°C to form an oil phase. Next, a part of component (H) water and component (F) glycerin were mixed and heated to 70-80°C to form an aqueous phase. Next, the oil phase was added to the aqueous phase and emulsified at 6000 rpm for 2 minutes using a homodisper of a dispersion tester manufactured by Primix Corporation. The remainder of the room temperature water (H) was then added and dispersed at 6000 rpm for 1 minute, followed by cooling to 35°C to prepare the cosmetic preparation.

[0026] Next, the specific blending ratios of the examples of the present cosmetic will be described in detail, in comparison with the comparative examples. Here, the evaluation method of the prepared cosmetic will be described with reference to Fig. 1. The appearance color of the cosmetic was judged by filling 45 mL of the cosmetic into a cylindrical transparent glass bottle (diameter 30 mm, height 40 mm) shown in Fig. 1 (2), bringing the black and white striped background pattern shown in Fig. 1 (1) into contact with the glass bottle, and visually viewing the cosmetic through the glass bottle at an elevation angle of 0 degrees from a position where the line of sight is 90 degrees with the background pattern, and judging the appearance of the black and white stripes in the background as follows. "Semi-transparent": All six black lines are visible across the entire width of the bottle (outer diameter of the bottle). "Cloudy": Anything other than the above. Specifically, the black lines are not visible at all. Even if the black lines are visible, they are not visible on all bottles. All the black lines are visible but not the entire width of the bottle.

[0027] The haze value (ratio of diffuse transmitted light to total transmitted light) of the sample was also measured. The haze value was measured using a Konica Minolta colorimeter CM-36dG in accordance with "JISK 7136:2000 Plastics - Determination of haze for transparent materials". By comparing the haze value with visual evaluation using a black and white striped background pattern, a haze value of 75 or less was determined as an embodiment, and a haze value of 75 or more was determined as a comparative example.

[0028] Table 1 below shows the formulation of Example 1 of the present cosmetic preparation, and the formulations of Comparative Examples 1 to 6 that do not contain any of the components (A) to (F). The unit of the blend amounts shown in the table below is "% by mass."

[0029] [Table 1]

[0030] From the results in Table 1 above, as shown in Comparative Examples 1 to 6, it became clear that when any one of components (A) to (F) was not included, the liquid became cloudy and a translucent cosmetic preparation could not be obtained, and that all of components (A) to (H) were necessary to produce a translucent cosmetic preparation.

[0031] This cosmetic product realizes a translucent liquid by incorporating component (G) (dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl)), an oily component of a water-containing oil, into micelles together with two types of hydrophilic surfactants, components (A) and (B), two types of lipophilic surfactants, components (C) and (D), and solubilizing aids, components (E) and (F). Therefore, it is hypothesized that micelles cannot be formed unless the relative ratio (hereinafter referred to as "balance") between the amounts of each of components (A) to (F) and the amounts of the other components is constant, and Tables 2 and 3 below show the results of experimentally determining this.

[0032] [Table 2]

[0033] [Table 3]

[0034] As shown in Table 2, in Examples 1 to 8, translucent liquids were obtained. On the other hand, as shown in Table 3, in Comparative Examples 7 to 15, the liquids were cloudy and translucent liquids were not obtained. The balance ((A)+(B)) / ((C)+(D)) between the total amount of hydrophilic surfactants and the total amount of lipophilic surfactants that can produce a translucent cosmetic preparation had a lower limit of 2.3 in comparison between Example 4 and Comparative Example 7, and an upper limit of 2.56 in comparison between Example 5 and Comparative Example 9. Therefore, the blending ratio of the above components in mass % is preferably ((A)+(B)) / ((C)+(D))=2.3 to 2.6.

[0035] Moreover, from the results of Examples 1 to 8 (particularly Examples 4, 5, and 2), the blend ratio (A) / (B) is preferably 1.3 to 1.7. Comparative Examples 13 and 14 satisfy the above blend ratio ((A)+(B)) / ((C)+(D))=2.3 to 2.6, but Comparative Example 13, in which the blend ratio (A) / (B) is 0.67, was cloudy. Comparative Example 14, in which the blend ratio (A) / (B) is 3, was cloudy. These results support the appropriateness of the blend ratio (A) / (B)=1.3 to 1.7.

[0036] Moreover, from the results of Examples 1 to 8 (particularly Examples 7 and 2), the blend ratio (C) / (D) is preferably 0.25 to 1.7. Comparative Example 15 satisfies the above blend ratio ((A)+(B)) / ((C)+(D))=2.3 to 2.6, but Comparative Example 15, in which the blend ratio (C) / (D) is 0.04, was cloudy. These results support the appropriateness of the blend ratio (C) / (D)=0.25 to 1.7.

[0037] Next, the balance between the solubilization aids, component (E) oleyl alcohol and component (F) glycerin, and the applicable blending range of component (G) dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), were experimentally determined, and the results are shown in Table 4 below.

[0038] [Table 4]

[0039] From the results of Examples 9, 10, and 11 in Table 4, the balance ((E) / (G)) between oleyl alcohol of component (E) and water-holding oil agent of component (G) is preferably in the range of 1.0 to 1.4. Comparative Example 16, in which the blending amount of oleyl alcohol of component (E) relative to component (G) was lower than the above condition, became cloudy.

[0040] The balance ((F) / (E)) of component (F) glycerin and component (E) oleyl alcohol is preferably in the range of 5 to 10. As shown in Comparative Examples 16 and 17, it was found that when the blending amount of component (F) glycerin relative to component (E) oleyl alcohol was higher than the above-mentioned range, the product became cloudy.

[0041] Furthermore, from the results of Examples 12, 13, and 14, it was found that the component (G) dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) can be blended in the range of 0.1 to 1.5 mass %. In that case, the balance ((C) / (G)) of blending the component (C) glyceryl isostearate, which is a lipophilic surfactant, is preferably 0.85 to 1.0, based on Examples 5 and 6 in Table 1 above and Example 13 in Table 4 above.

[0042] The results of the preliminary tests carried out in preparing the present cosmetic composition described above are shown in Table 5 below as Reference Examples 1 to 7.

[0043] [Table 5]

[0044] Reference Examples 1 and 2 are the results of a preliminary test in which the water-holding oily component (component (c) in Patent Document 1) in the examples disclosed in the above Patent Document 1 (JP Patent Publication 2013-189408 A) was replaced with dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) (component (G) in the present cosmetic). The blending amount of dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) was set to 0.3% by mass as specified in the present cosmetic.

[0045] As shown in Table 5, the liquid preparations of Reference Examples 1 and 2 were both cloudy. Therefore, referring to Patent Document 1, it was shown that even if the water-holding oily component is simply replaced with dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), a translucent liquid preparation like that of the present cosmetic composition cannot be obtained.

[0046] In addition, the pamphlet of Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. describes oleyl alcohol, cetyl octanoate, and trioctanoin as oils that can dissolve dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) (product name: Plandool-S). Therefore, preliminary tests were conducted by blending each of the above oils (oleyl alcohol (Reference Examples 5, 6, and 7), cetyl octanoate (Reference Example 4), and trioctanoin (Reference Example 3)).

[0047] In these Reference Examples 3 to 7, the liquid was cloudy and a translucent liquid like that of the present cosmetic was not obtained. However, in Reference Example 6, which contains 0.3% by mass of oleyl alcohol, the liquid was cloudy, but when viewed from a different angle, a bright red-orange pearlescent luster was observed. Therefore, the conditions of Reference Example 6 are expected to have some effect compared to other Reference Examples, and in the above-mentioned examples, the amount of oleyl alcohol was set to 0.3% by mass, and further conditions were explored. However, adding oleyl alcohol in the above amount does not make the liquid translucent, and as shown in Table 1 above, all of the components (A) to (H) are necessary to create a translucent cosmetic.

[0048] Incidentally, the cosmetic according to the present invention is intended to be used primarily as an emulsion base, but it can also be used in other applications, for example, as various liquid cosmetic products.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising the following components (A) to (H): (A) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (B) Polyglyceryl-10 myristate (C) Glyceryl isostearate (D) Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (E) Oleyl alcohol (F) Glycerin (G) Dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) (H) Water.

2. The blending ratio of the components in mass% is ((A)+(B)) / ((C)+(D))=2.3~2.6 2. The cosmetic according to claim 1,

3. The blending ratio of the components in mass% is (A) / (B)=1.3~1.7 (C) / (D)=0.25-1.7 3. The cosmetic according to claim 2,

4. The blending ratio of the components in mass% is (E) / (G)=1.0~1.4 (F) / (E)=5-10 The cosmetic preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that

5. The blending ratio of the components in mass% is (C) / (G)=0.85~1.0 The cosmetic preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that

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