Collared shirt
By using a band-shaped collar body with folded pieces to create a bag-like shape at the collar ends and adjusting the front placket ends, the collared shirt addresses issues of fraying, peeling, and unevenness, enhancing both aesthetics and wearer comfort.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2025002605
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-01-08
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-16
- Estimated Expiration
- Not applicable · inactive patent
AI Technical Summary
Collared shirts often suffer from aesthetic issues and discomfort due to fraying, peeling, and yellowing at the collar and placket peripheries, as well as unevenness and rubbing caused by fabric thickness differences.
The design incorporates a band-shaped collar body with three folded pieces that are folded back and overlapped with the collar body, forming a bag-like shape at the collar ends, and adjusts the positioning of the front placket ends to reduce fabric edge concentration and unevenness.
This configuration prevents fraying and peeling at the collar periphery, maintains the collar's aesthetic appearance, and reduces discomfort by minimizing fabric edge unevenness and rubbing.
Smart Images

Figure 2025063899000001_ABST
Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a collared shirt. [Background technology]
[0002] Patent Document 1 discloses a collared shirt having a collar and a placket. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0003] [Patent Document 1] Actual publication Showa 57-35311 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0004] Generally, the aesthetic appearance of a collared shirt is easily evaluated based on the collar and the area around the placket, so it is desirable to improve the appearance of the collar and / or the area around the placket.
[0005] An object of the present invention is to provide a collared shirt with improved appearance around the collar and / or placket. [Means for solving the problem]
[0006] One aspect of the present invention provides a collared shirt comprising a collar sewn to the body, the collar having a body, a strip-shaped collar body which constitutes a first side located on the front side in the normal state with the collar tip facing downward, and three folded pieces which are continuous with the collar body and are folded back on the collar body to constitute a second side located on the back side in the normal state, the collar body having a first long side sewn to the body, a second long side opposite the first long side, and a pair of short sides connecting the first long side and the second long side, the three folded pieces being provided at the second long side and the pair of short sides.
[0007] Generally, a collar is known that is formed by preparing two pieces of collar fabric and joining the two pieces of collar fabric with an adhesive. When the two pieces of collar fabric are joined together, the cross section of the two pieces of fabric that were joined together when cut may be exposed at the periphery of the collar. When a collar is formed in this way, there is a risk that the periphery of the joined collar fabrics may peel off, or the cross section of the periphery may yellow due to deterioration of the adhesive, etc.
[0008] According to the present invention, in a collar formed by overlapping at least two pieces of collar fabric, when the three fold pieces are folded and overlapped on the collar body, the peripheral edge of the collar is formed into a bag shape by the fold pieces and the collar body along the fold line consisting of the second long side and a pair of short sides, except for the first long side that is sewn to the body. Therefore, the cross section of the cut end of the parts does not appear on the peripheral edge of the collar, and fraying of the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed. For example, even if the collar is joined by adhesive, peeling and yellowing of the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed. As a result, the appearance of the collar area of the collar shirt can be improved.
[0009] The three folded pieces include a main folded piece continuous with the second long side portion and a pair of sub-folded pieces continuous with each of the pair of short side portions, and the main folded piece has a first main long side portion consisting of the second long side portion around which the main folded piece is folded, a second main long side portion parallel to the first main long side portion, and a pair of main short side portions connecting the first main long side portion and the second main long side portion, and each of the pair of sub-folded pieces may have a first sub-side portion consisting of the pair of short side portions around which the sub-folded piece is folded, a second sub-side portion inclined complementarily to the main short side portion when folded, and a third sub-side portion extending along the first long side portion.
[0010] According to this configuration, a pair of main short side portions of the main fold piece and the second minor side portions of each minor fold piece are formed complementarily, so that when folded, the pair of main short side portions overlap with each of the second minor side portions, thereby preventing thickness differences (unevenness) in the collar, and allowing the formation of an aesthetically pleasing collar.
[0011] In addition, the peripheral edge of the collar is formed into a bag shape by the fold lines consisting of the second long side and the pair of short sides, so fraying, peeling and yellowing at the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed. In particular, even when the top of the collar tip after the collar is sewn to the body is formed by the intersection of the second long side and the short sides, fraying, peeling and yellowing at the top of the collar tip can be suppressed.
[0012] The collar may be formed by bonding between the collar body and the three cuff pieces.
[0013] According to this configuration, when the three folded pieces are folded and overlapped on the collar body, the peripheral edge of the collar is formed by the folded pieces and the collar body, except for the first long side portion sewn to the body, and is in a bag shape along the folding line. Therefore, the cross section of the cut end of the part does not appear on the peripheral edge of the collar. Therefore, peeling and yellowing of the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed, unlike when the collar body and the overlapping piece cut off from the collar body are bonded. Furthermore, compared to when the collar body and the three folded pieces are sewn to each other, it is possible to prevent the collar tip from bulging due to the collar body and the folded pieces being separated, and to form a collar with excellent aesthetics.
[0014] The collar may be such that the collar body and the three folded pieces are not bonded to each other and can be separated from each other.
[0015] According to this configuration, when the three fold pieces are folded and overlapped on the collar body, the peripheral edge of the collar is formed by the fold pieces and the collar body, except for the long side portion sewn to the body, and is in a bag shape along the fold line. Therefore, the cross section of the cut end of the parts does not appear on the peripheral edge of the collar. Therefore, fraying of the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed.
[0016] The collar may comprise a butt joint portion where the pair of main short side portions of the main fold piece and the second minor side portions of the pair of minor fold pieces are butted together and bonded, and a reinforcing tape arranged to extend along the butt joint portion.
[0017] According to this configuration, the butt joint where the pair of main short sides and the pair of second minor sides are butted together extends from the top of the collar tip after the collar is sewn to the body toward the first long side that is sewn to the body of the collar body. This allows the reinforcing tape provided along this butt joint to function as a so-called collar keeper to prevent the tip of the collar from warping or losing its shape, thereby preventing the collar from losing its shape without the need for a separate member for the collar keeper.
[0018] A core material may be provided between the collar body and the three folded pieces.
[0019] According to this configuration, the core material prevents the collar from losing its shape, and allows the collar to be kept in shape.
[0020] Another aspect of the present invention comprises a front body having a right front body portion located on the right side of the body width and a left front body portion located on the left side of the body width, the right front body portion and the left front body portion each having a folded portion that is folded back to the back side of the front body at the center side in the body width direction, and further comprising a placket member adjacent to the inner edge of the folded portion in the body width direction and extending along the body length direction of the front body, the placket member having a front placket portion located on the front side of the front body and a back placket portion that is continuous with the inner end of the front placket portion in the body width direction and is located on the back side of the front placket portion and extends toward the outside in the width direction, and at least one of the front placket end portion on the outside of the front placket portion in the body width direction and the back placket end portion on the outside of the back placket portion in the body width direction may be positioned with a shift in the body width direction relative to the folded end portion on the outside of the body width direction of the folded portion.
[0021] Generally, the placket member of a polo shirt is configured so that the positions in the body width direction of the folded end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the folded portion formed by folding over the front body, the front placket end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the front placket member that is sewn to the front body, and the back placket end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the back placket, which is continuous with the inner end in the body width direction of the front placket and is positioned on the back side of the front placket, are aligned.
[0022] In this case, the concentration of the ends of the multiple fabrics around the placket of the front body may cause the concentration of the ends of the placket to appear as unintended unevenness on the front side, marring the aesthetic look, or the ends of the shirt may come into contact with the wearer, causing discomfort. More specifically, the thickness of the fabric differs between the placket, which is formed by overlapping multiple fabrics (for example, four pieces of the front body, the folded part, the front placket, and the back placket), and the front body (one piece), causing a step at the end of the placket (the end in the width direction of the folded part, the front placket, and the back placket). This step may appear on the front side of the shirt, marring the aesthetic look, or the step may come into contact with the wearer, causing chafing.
[0023] In contrast, according to the present invention, by shifting the position of the end of the fabric around the placket, the step around the placket with respect to the front body is reduced compared to when the folded end, the front placket end, and the back placket end are aligned in the body width direction. This reduces the occurrence of unintended unevenness on the front side and discomfort to the wearer caused by the concentration of the ends of multiple fabrics around the placket of the front body. More specifically, the thickness of the fabric differs between the placket, which is formed by overlapping multiple fabrics, and the front body, and the step at the end of the placket is prevented from appearing on the front side, damaging the aesthetic appearance, or from the step coming into contact with the wearer, causing rubbing. As a result, the step is prevented from appearing as an unintended unevenness on the front side, damaging the aesthetic appearance, and the appearance around the collar of the collared shirt is improved. Furthermore, the discomfort caused by the step coming into contact with the wearer can be suppressed.
[0024] The width from the inner edge portion to the end portion of the back placket may be set to be larger than the width of the folded-back portion.
[0025] Since the back placket end is located outside the folded end in the body width direction, the folded end is covered by the back placket on the inside (wearer's side) of the polo shirt, providing an aesthetically pleasing appearance from the inside.
[0026] The width from the inner edge to the end of the front placket may be set smaller than the width of the folded-back portion.
[0027] Since the front placket end is located on the inner side of the folded end in the width direction, the folded end and the front placket end are located on the inner side of the back placket end in the width direction. This allows the folded end and the front placket end to be covered by the back placket, making it look more beautiful from the inside. Also, compared to when the width from the inner edge to the front placket end is set larger than the width of the folded end, the area of the overlapping fabric in the placket, which causes a large step, can be reduced.
[0028] A band-shaped interlining extending in the body length direction along the placket is sandwiched between the front placket and the back placket, and the interlining end portion on the outer side in the body width direction of the interlining may be positioned so as to be shifted in the body width direction from the folded end portion, the front placket end portion, and the back placket end portion.
[0029] According to this configuration, even when an interlining is sandwiched in the placket portion, the step around the placket relative to the front body is reduced by shifting the positions in the body width direction of the end of the interlining, the folded end, the front placket end, and the back placket end.
[0030] The width from the inner edge to the end of the interlining may be set to be equal to or smaller than the width from the inner edge to the end of the front placket.
[0031] The width from the inner edge to the end of the interlining can reduce the area of overlapping fabric that causes a large step in the placket, compared to when the width from the inner edge to the end of the front placket is set larger than the width from the inner edge to the end of the front placket.
[0032] The width of the back placket portion may increase from the bottom to the top.
[0033] Since the width of the lining placket increases from the chest side located at the bottom in the body length direction to the collar side located at the top, it is easier to position the outer end of the lining placket outside the collarbone of the wearer located in the center in the body width direction, compared to when the outer end of the lining placket extends in the body length direction with the width of a straight part. This makes it easier to prevent discomfort caused by the outer end abutting the collarbone.
[0034] The back placket end portion may have a straight portion located below, and a curved portion that is continuous with the straight portion and curves upward and outward in the body width direction.
[0035] Since the width of the back placket end is smoothly expanded by the curved portion, it is possible to suppress the discomfort caused by the portion that changes from the straight portion to the curved portion coming into contact with the wearer. Specifically, compared to when the curved portion is continuous with the straight portion and is configured with a straight line that slopes upward and outward in the width direction, it is less likely that a corner will be formed between the straight portion and the curved portion, and it is possible to suppress the discomfort caused by the corner coming into contact with the wearer. Effect of the Invention
[0036] The collared shirt of the present invention can improve the appearance of the area around the collar and / or placket. [Brief description of the drawings]
[0037] [Figure 1] 1 is a front view of a polo shirt (collared shirt) according to the present invention. [Diagram 2] FIG. 2 is a rear view of the polo shirt according to the present invention. [Diagram 3] FIG. 2 is a partially enlarged view of the collar area of the polo shirt according to the present invention in a normal state with the collar folded back. [Figure 4] FIG. 2 is a schematic development of the collar before it is sewn to the body. [Diagram 5] FIG. 4 is a schematic development of the collar before the fold-over pieces are folded back. [Figure 6] Cross-sectional view taken along line VI-VI in Figure 4. [Figure 7] An enlarged view of the center of the front body width direction before the placket and collar are sewn on. [Figure 8] 8 is an enlarged view of the folded-back portion of the front body in FIG. 7 . [Figure 9] FIG. 2 is a partially enlarged view of the placket portion and its surroundings when the collar of the polo shirt according to the present invention is upright. [Figure 10] FIG. 10 is a cross-sectional perspective view taken along line XX in FIG. [Figure 11] 11 is a cross-sectional view corresponding to FIG. 10 of a collar with a core material. [Figure 12] 13A and 13B are a development view and a front view showing a modified collar. [Figure 13] 13A and 13B are a development view and a front view showing another modified example of the collar. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0038] Hereinafter, an embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
[0039] Fig. 1 is a front view of a polo shirt as a collared shirt according to one embodiment of the present invention. Hereinafter, the top and bottom, left and right, and front and back of the polo shirt 1 will be defined based on a state in which a wearer wearing the polo shirt 1 is standing upright. In addition, the direction from the outer surface toward the inside in the thickness direction of the fabric is defined as the inside, and vice versa, the direction toward the outside in the width direction of the body is defined as the outside, and the direction toward the center in the width direction of the body is defined as the inside. Referring to Fig. 1, the polo shirt 1 has a body 2 made of, for example, woven or knitted fabric, with a front body 21 and a back body 25, a pair of left and right sleeves 4, a collar 5, and a placket member 6.
[0040] As shown in FIG. 1 and FIG. 2, the body 2 has a front body 21 and a back body 25. The front body 21 and the back body 25 are sewn together at both ends 21a, 25a in the body width direction, except for the part where the left and right sleeves are sewn together. The front body 21 and the back body 25 are sewn together at the upper edges 21b, 25b in the body length direction, except for the part where the collar 5 is connected. The left and right sleeves 4 are sewn together at the side edges 21c, 25c between the both ends 21a, 25a and the upper edges 21b, 25b. Note that each part such as the front body 21, the back body 25, the sleeves 4, the collar 5, etc. may be joined together by bonding, ultrasonic bonding, etc., instead of sewing. In addition, when joining parts such as each body to another or a body to a sleeve, either sewing or bonding is possible.
[0041] The collar 5 will be described with reference to Figures 3 to 5 and 9. Figure 3 shows the collar 5 in its normal state with the tip facing down, and Figure 9 shows it in its upright state. Figure 4 shows the collar 5 before it is sewn to the body 2. Figure 5 shows the collar 5 after it has been cut from the fabric and before the fold-back pieces 52, 53, and 54 described below have been folded back. Hereinafter, the surface of the collar 5 that is positioned on the front side in the normal state will be referred to as the first side, and the surface that is positioned on the back side in the normal state will be referred to as the second side.
[0042] 3, the collar 5 is attached across the upper ends of the front body 21 and the back body 25, and is arranged to surround the neck of the wearer when worn. The collar 5 is folded back to the outside of the neck along the circumferential direction of the neck.
[0043] Referring to Fig. 4, in this embodiment, the collar 5 is made of cotton, linen, polyester, or the like, and has a rectangular and band-like shape. The collar 5 has a pair of opposing long sides 5a, 5b and a pair of opposing short sides 5c, 5d. In this embodiment, the length of each of the long sides 5a, 5b is, for example, approximately equal to the circumference L3 of the neck edge. The length of each of the short sides 5c, 5d is set to a predetermined height H1 according to the design of the collar height.
[0044] In this embodiment, angle a1 of corner 5e formed by long sides 5a, 5b and short sides 5c, 5d is approximately 90 degrees. Angle a1 of corner 5e is not limited to 90 degrees, and may be an acute angle or an obtuse angle depending on the design of the collar.
[0045] 5, collar 5 has a band-shaped collar body 51 and three fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 provided continuously with collar body 51. Collar 5 is sewn to body 2 with the three fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 folded over to overlap collar body 51. Collar 5 is sewn to body 2 such that, in the normal state, collar body 51 constitutes a first surface located on the outside, and fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 constitute a second surface located on the inside. In other words, the entire collar body 51 constitutes the first surface of collar 5, and the entirety of fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 constitute the second surface of collar 5.
[0046] The collar body 51 has a first long side 51a sewn to the body 2, a second long side 51b facing the first long side 51a, and a pair of short sides 51c, 51d connecting the first long side 51a and the second long side 51b. The lengths of the first long side 51a and the second long side 51b match the long sides 5a, 5b of the collar 5. The height H1 of the pair of short sides 51c, 51d is set to be higher than the height of the collar 5 by an allowance for seam. The first long side 51a, the second long side 51b, and the pair of short sides 51c, 51d of the collar body 51 form the outer shape of the collar in the finished state, i.e., the pair of long sides 5a, 5b and the pair of short sides 5c, 5d.
[0047] The three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 are provided continuous with the second long side portion 51b and the pair of short side portions 51c, 51d. More specifically, the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 include a main folded piece 52 continuous with the second long side portion 51b and a pair of secondary folded pieces 53, 54 respectively continuous with the pair of short side portions 51c, 51d.
[0048] As shown by the two-dot chain arrows in FIG. 5, the three fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 are folded back at the second long side portion 51b and the pair of short side portions 51c, 51d, respectively, and the three fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 are superimposed on the collar body 51.
[0049] The main folded piece 52 is trapezoidal in shape and has a first main long side 52a consisting of a second long side 51b around which the main folded piece 52 is folded, a second main long side 52b facing the first main long side 52a, and first and second main short sides 52c, 52d connecting the first main long side 52a and the second main long side 52b. Depending on the design of the collar 5, the main folded piece 52 may be rectangular.
[0050] In this embodiment, the length of the first main long side portion 52a is equal to the length L3 of the second long side portion 51b, and the length L4 of the second main long side portion 52b is shorter than that of the first main long side portion 52a. The first main long side portion 52a and the second main long side portion 52b are formed so that their centers in the length direction are aligned, so that the first and second main short side portions 52c and 52d connecting both ends of the first main long side portion 52a and the second main long side portion 52b are inclined in a direction approaching each other from the first main long side portion 52a toward the second main long side portion 52b. The collar 5 is symmetrical with respect to a center line C that passes through the center of the long side portion 5a of the collar 5 and extends in the body length direction.
[0051] The height of main fold piece 52 coincides with height H1 of short sides 51c, 51d of collar body 51. That is, in the folded state, second main long side 52b overlaps first long side 51a of collar body 51 and extends circumferentially around the neck along first long side 51a.
[0052] Each of the pair of minor folded pieces 53, 54 has a first minor side 53a, 54a consisting of the short side 51c, 51d around which the minor folded pieces 53, 54 are folded, a second minor side 53b formed complementary to the third and fourth main short side 52c, 52d in the folded state (see FIG. 3), and a third minor side 53c extending along the first long side 51a. Complementary does not necessarily mean that the main short side 52c, 52d and the second minor side 53b, 54b are butted together, but also includes cases where the main short side 52c, 52d and the second minor side 53b, 54b overlap or are separated from each other due to an error in cutting the collar pattern or an error when folding the folded pieces. In addition, when the main short side portions 52c, 52d and the second sub-side portions 53b, 54b are spaced apart, the opposing portions may be covered with a reinforcing tape 56 (see Figures 3 and 4) described below to prevent the folded pieces from peeling off.
[0053] 4, the sum of the angle a2 between the first major long side portion 52a and the first and second major short side portions 52c, 53c and the angle a3 between the first and second short side portions 52c, 52d and the second and third minor side portions 53b, 54b is the angle a1 of the corner portion 5e. It is preferable that the difference between the angle a2 and the angle a3 is small, and more preferably, the angle α2 and the angle α3 are approximately equal.
[0054] 3 and 4, when the three fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 are overlapped on the collar body 51, peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5b of the collar 5, except for the first long side 51a that is sewn to the body, are formed into a bag-like shape at the end of the collar 5 by the fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 and the collar body 51 along the fold-back lines. In other words, no cross section of the cut-off end of the collar 5 parts appears at peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5b of the collar 5.
[0055] 5, in this embodiment, the angle a1 of the corner 5e is 90 degrees, and before folding, the angle a4 of the first and second main short sides 52c, 52d relative to the first main long side 52a and the angle a5 of the second minor side 53b, 54b relative to the first long side 51a match. As a result, the first and second main short sides 52c, 52d and the second minor side 53b, 54b each form a continuous straight line, which tends to improve the efficiency of the arrangement or cutting of the collar pattern on the material (cloth before cutting), and the yield rate.
[0056] 4, the collar 5 has a butt portion 55 where the first and second main short side portions 52c, 52d of the main folded piece 52 and the second minor side portions 53b, 54b of the pair of minor folded pieces 53, 54 are butted together and bonded. More specifically, the first and second main short side portions 52c, 52d and the second minor side portions 53b, 54b are butted together and bonded at the butt portion 55. The butt portion 55 is bonded, for example, by supersonic (ultrasonic bonding), which bonds the fabric while cutting it. The butt portion 55 may be sewn instead of bonded.
[0057] 3, 4 and 9, butt portion 55 extends from apex 5f of the collar tip after collar 5 is sewn to body 2 toward first long side 51a of collar body 51 that is sewn to body 2. In other words, as shown in Fig. 4, before being sewn to the body, butt portion 55 is inclined inward in the width direction of collar 5 from apex 5f toward first long side 51a.
[0058] 5, an adhesive tape 57 made of, for example, a sheet-like thermoplastic resin composition (e.g., a styrene-based elastomer resin tape or the like) is attached to the inner surface (the surface opposite to the first surface) of collar body 51. Adhesive tape 57 has the property of being pressed in a heated and molten state and then solidified and bonded by cooling (so-called hot melt adhesiveness). Adhesive tape 57 is not limited to a thermoplastic resin composition, and may be, for example, a polyurethane-based hot melt resin, a polyamide-based hot melt resin, an EVA-based hot melt resin, a polyolefin-based hot melt resin, a styrene-based hot melt resin, or the like.
[0059] Adhesive tape 57 may be in a mesh form other than a sheet form. When adhesive tape 57 is in a sheet form, it is attached to almost the entire front surface of collar body 51, so that a collar with a firmness (crispness) without breathability can be formed. On the other hand, when adhesive tape 57 is in the form of, for example, a lattice-like mesh, a softer collar with better breathability can be formed compared to the case where sheet-like adhesive tape 57 is attached.
[0060] The collar body 51 and the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 are adhered to each other via the adhesive tape 57 by heating and pressing the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 in a state where they are folded back against the surface of the collar body 51 to which the adhesive tape 57 is affixed.
[0061] The collar 5 thus manufactured has a three-layer structure consisting of a collar body 51, a hot melt layer made of adhesive tape 57, and each of the cuffs 52, 53, and 54, as shown in FIG.
[0062] 3 and 4, collar 5 has reinforcing tape 56 provided to extend along butt portion 55. Reinforcing tape 56 is made of, for example, thermoplastic polyurethane. As the thermoplastic polyurethane, for example, a 4 mm wide thermoplastic polyurethane can be used. By providing reinforcing tape 56 at butt portion 55, the adhesion of butt portion 55 is reinforced and peeling is suppressed.
[0063] 6, in this embodiment, the thickness T1 of the collar 5 at the portion where the reinforcing tape 56 is attached is 1.03 mm to 1.16 mm. The thickness T2 of the collar at the portion where the reinforcing tape 56 is not attached is 0.86 mm to 0.93 mm. The bending rigidity of the portion where the reinforcing tape 56 is attached is higher than that of the portion where the reinforcing tape 56 is not attached.
[0064] FIG. 7 shows an enlarged view of the center of the front body 21 in the body width direction before the placket member 6 and the collar 5 are sewn on. FIG. 8 shows an enlarged view of the front body 21 in FIG. 7 with the folded-back portions 22a, 23a folded back. Referring to FIG. 7, the front body 21 is provided with an inverted Y-shaped slit S at approximately the center of the body width direction, having a length from the upper edge portion 21b located at the upper edge in the body length direction to approximately the chest area. The slit S has a linear vertical portion S1 extending in the body length direction, and a pair of left and right inclined portions S2 inclined downward from the lower end of the vertical portion S1 toward the outside in the body width direction. The pair of left and right inclined portions S2 are provided so as to be line-symmetrical with respect to the vertical portion S1.
[0065] The front body 21 has a front body right part 22 and a front body left part 23 located on the right side of the vertical part S1. The front body right part 22 and the front body left part 23 each have a pair of left and right fold-back parts 22a, 23a that are folded back to the back side of the body 2 at the center in the body width direction, and a lower fold-back part 23d that is folded back downward and to the back side of the body 2 at the center in the body width direction.
[0066] The pair of left and right folded-back portions 22a, 23a are each defined by a vertical portion S1, an inclined portion S2, folding lines 22b, 23b extending in the body length direction from the lower end of the inclined portion S2 parallel to the vertical portion S1, and upper edges 21b of the front body right portion 22 and the front body left portion 23. When the folded-back portions 22a, 23a are folded back as shown in Fig. 8, the folding lines 22b, 23 become inner edges 22b, 23b located on the inner edges of the folded-back portions 22a, 23a in the body width direction. The width W1 of the folded-back portions 22a, 23a in the body width direction is half the width W2 between the lower ends of the pair of left and right inclined portions S2.
[0067] The lower folded portion 23d is a triangular portion defined by a pair of left and right inclined portions S2 and a folding line 23e extending in the body width direction between the lower ends of the inclined portions S2. When the lower folded portion 23d is folded back as shown in FIG. 8, the folding line 23e becomes the upper edge 23e located at the upper edge of the lower folded portion 23d in the body length direction.
[0068] 8, when the folded-back portions 22a, 23a are folded back, a rectangular opening 24 is formed in the front body 21, extending downward in the body length direction from the upper edge of the front body 21. The width of the opening 24 corresponds to the width W2 between the lower ends of the inclined portion S2.
[0069] 9, the front body 21 further includes a placket member 6 adjacent to the inside in the body width direction of the inner edge portions 22b, 23b in the body width direction of the folded-back portions 22a, 23a in the body width direction and extending along the body length direction of the body 2. The placket member 6 includes a pair of left and right placket members 61, 62 provided on the front body right portion 22 and the front body left portion 23, respectively. The pair of left and right placket members 61, 62 are overlapped openably and closably at approximately the center in the body width direction along the folded-back portions 22a, 23a, with a length from the upper end portion in the body length direction reaching approximately the chest area.
[0070] The placket member 61 is located on the inside and is an inner member to which a button 6a for maintaining the overlapping is attached. The placket member 62 is located on the outside and is an outer member 62 to which a buttonhole 6b through which the button 6a is inserted is provided. In the placket closed state in which the pair of left and right placket members 61, 62 are overlapped, the opening 24 of the front body 21 is covered from the outside by the pair of left and right placket members 61, 62.
[0071] FIG. 10 is a cross-sectional perspective view taken along line XX in FIG. 9. In FIG. 10, the thickness of the fabric piece is emphasized in order to make the structure of the front placket member 6 easier to understand. Referring to FIG. 10, the inner member 61 and the outer member 62 are each formed into a bag shape by front placket parts 61a, 62a located on the front side of the body 2, and back placket parts 61c, 62c located on the back side of the front placket part 61a, continuing from the inner end parts 61b, 62b located on the inner end parts in the width direction of the front placket parts 61a, 62a, and extending toward the outside in the width direction. The inner member 61 and the outer member 62 are opposite in the left-right direction (inside and outside in the width direction), but have roughly the same configuration, so only the inner member 61 will be described.
[0072] The front placket 61a includes a main body 61d disposed in the opening 24 and a seam allowance 61e sewn to the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a. The front placket 61a is sewn to the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a of the front body 21 between the main body 61d and the seam allowance 61e.
[0073] The main body 61d is rectangular in shape corresponding to the opening 24, and extends inward in the width direction from the inner edge 23b of the fold-back portion 23a to near the inner edge 22b of the fold-back portion 23a of the front body right portion 22. The width in the width direction of the main body 61d roughly matches the width W2 of the opening 24. The length L1 in the body height direction of the front placket portion 61a at the center in the width direction of the front body 21 is set longer than the length L2 of the opening 24 (see FIG. 9).
[0074] The seam allowance 61e is continuous with the outer side of the body width direction of the main body portion 61d, and extends from the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a to the outer side in the body width direction. The width W3 of the seam allowance 61e in the body width direction (the dimension from the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a to the outer end 61f of the seam allowance 61e in the body width direction) is set to be smaller than the width W1 of the folded-back portion 22a (the dimension from the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a to the outer end 23c of the folded-back portion 23a in the body width direction). For example, it is preferable that the width W3 of the seam allowance 61e in the body width direction is set to 0.4 or less than the width W1 of the folded-back portion 23a. Alternatively, it is preferable that the width W1 of the folded-back portion 23a is set to 5 mm or more greater than the width W3 of the seam allowance 61e in the body width direction. In other words, it is preferable that the end 23c of the folded-back portion 23a and the outer end 61f of the seam portion 61e are spaced apart by 5 mm or more in the width direction. In this embodiment, the width W3 of the seam portion 61e in the width direction is set to 6 mm, and the width W1 of the folded-back portion 23a is set to 15 mm.
[0075] 9, the back placket 61c extends from the inner end 61b of the front placket 61a toward the outside in the body width direction, beyond the outer end 23c of the folded-back portion 23a. The inner end 61b of the back placket 61c is formed as a straight line extending in the body length direction along the opening 24.
[0076] As shown in FIG. 10, the outer end 61g of the back placket 61c has a straight portion 61h that extends in the body length direction along the opening 24 at the lower side in the body length direction, and a curved portion 61e that extends further upward from the upper end of the straight portion 61h to the upper edge 21b of the front body 21. The curved portion 61e curves outward in the body width direction toward the upper side in the body length direction. The outer end 61g of the back placket 61c expands in the body width direction from the lower side to the upper side in the body length direction. Therefore, the curved portion 61i of the outer end 61g of the back placket 61c is located more outward in the body width direction than the straight portion 61f, and the outer end 61g of the back placket 61c is separated from the outer end 23c of the folded-back portion 23a from the lower side to the upper side. In other words, since the width of the back placket 61c increases from the chest located at the bottom in the body length direction to the collar located at the top, it is easier to position the outer end 61g on the outside of the collarbone of the wearer located at the center in the body width direction, compared to when the outer end 61g of the back placket 61c extends in the body length direction with the width of the straight portion 61h. This makes it easier to prevent the outer end 61g from contacting the collarbone.
[0077] The width W4 in the body width direction from the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a of the back placket 61c to the outer end 61g in the body width direction is set to be larger than the width W1 of the folded portion 23a. For example, the width W4 is preferably set to be 1.3 times or more the width W1 of the folded portion 23a. Alternatively, the width W4 is preferably set to be 5 mm or more larger than the width W1. In other words, the end 23c of the folded portion 23a and the outer end 61g in the body width direction from the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a of the back placket 61c are preferably spaced apart from each other by 5 mm or more in the body width direction. In this embodiment, the width W4 is set to be 20 mm or more and 35 mm or less.
[0078] An outer end 61g of the back placket 61c is located outside the outer end 23c of the folded-back portion 23a and the outer end 61f of the seam allowance 61e in the body width direction. On the inside (wearer side) of the polo shirt 1, the outer end 23c of the folded-back portion 23a and the outer end 61f of the front placket 61a are covered by the back placket 61c, so that the appearance from the inside is excellent.
[0079] 9 and 10, in this embodiment, a strip-shaped interlining 63 extending in the body length direction along the placket member 6 is sandwiched between the front placket portion 61a and the back placket portion 61c. The interlining 63 is an adhesive interlining that is bonded to the front placket portion 61a, and the fabric is knit, 100% polyester, and the adhesive resin is polyamide resin, polyurethane resin, or the like. In this embodiment, the interlining 63 is in a so-called loose state, that is, it is not bonded to the back placket portion 61c and is left floating. The interlining 63 extends from the inner end portion 61b of the front placket portion 61a to the outside in the body width direction beyond the inner edge portion 23b of the folded-back portion 23a. The interlining 63 has the same body length direction dimension L1 as the inner member 61, and its width in the body width direction is larger than the width W2 of the opening 24. In other words, the outer end 63a of the interlining 63 is located outside the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a in the body width direction and inside the outer end 61f of the front placket portion 61a in the body width direction.
[0080] The interlining 63 is sewn to the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a of the front body 21, similarly to the front placket portion 61a. In this embodiment, the interlining 63 is sewn to the front body 21 while being bonded to the front placket portion 61a. The width W5 from the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a to the outer end 63a of the interlining 63 is set to be smaller than the width W3 of the seam allowance portion 61e. For example, the width W5 is preferably set to 1 / 3 or less of the width W1 of the folded-back portion 23a, and in this embodiment, the width W5 is set to 5 mm. The width W3 may be the same as the width W5.
[0081] The inner member 61 and the interlining 63 are sewn together along the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a in a state where they are overlapped on the front side of the left front body portion 23. When the folded-back portion 23a is folded back along the inner edge 23b in a state where the inner member 61 and the interlining 63 are sewn to the left front body portion 23, the folded-back portion 23a, the front placket portion 61a and the seam allowance portion 61e, the interlining 63, and the back placket portion 61c are overlapped on the back side of the left front body portion 23 in this order from the front side to the back side.
[0082] As shown in Figure 10, the folded end 23c on the outer side in the body width direction of the folded portion 23a, the outer end (front placket end) 61f on the outer side in the body width direction (seam allowance portion 61e) of the front placket portion 61a, the outer end (back placket end) 61g on the outer side in the body width direction of the back placket portion 61c, and the outer end (back placket end) 63a on the outer side in the body width direction of the interlining 63 are positioned with their positions shifted in the body width direction.
[0083] The polo shirt 1 constructed in this manner has the following features.
[0084] According to the present invention, when the three fold pieces 52, 53, 54 are folded back and overlapped on the collar body 51, the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5 are formed into a bag-like shape along the fold lines by the fold pieces 52, 53, 54 and the collar body 51, except for the first long side 51a sewn to the body 2. Therefore, the cross section of the cut-off end of the parts does not appear on the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5, and peeling and yellowing of the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5 at the peripheral edges of the collar 5 can be suppressed. Furthermore, compared to when the collar body 51 and the three fold pieces 52, 53, 54 are sewn to each other, this prevents the collar tip from swelling due to separation between the collar body 51 and the fold pieces 52, 53, 54, and forms a collar 5 with excellent aesthetics.
[0085] The pair of main short sides 52c, 52d of the main fold piece 52 and the second sub-side sides 53b, 54b of each sub-fold piece 53, 54 are formed complementarily, so that when folded, the pair of main short sides 52c, 52d overlap with each of the second sub-side sides 53b, 54b, which prevents thickness differences (unevenness) in the collar 5 from occurring, and allows the formation of an aesthetically pleasing collar.
[0086] The fold lines consisting of the second long side portion 51b and the pair of short side portions 51c, 51d form the end of the collar 5 into a bag shape at the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5, thereby preventing fraying, peeling, and yellowing at the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5. In particular, the apex 5f of the collar tip after the collar 5 is sewn to the body is formed by the intersection of the second long side portion 51b and the short side portions 51c, 51d, thereby preventing fraying, peeling, and yellowing at the apex 5f of the collar tip.
[0087] Butt portion 55, where pair of main short sides 52c, 52d and pair of second minor sides 53b, 54b are butted together, extends from apex 5f of the collar tip after collar 5 is sewn to the body toward first long side 51a sewn to the body of collar main body 51. As a result, reinforcing tape 56 provided along butt portion 55 functions as a so-called collar keeper to prevent the tip of collar 5 from warping or otherwise losing its shape, making it possible to prevent collar 5 from losing its shape without the need for a separate member for the collar keeper.
[0088] Generally, the placket member of a polo shirt is formed so that the positions in the body width direction of the folded outer end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the folded portion formed by folding over the front body, the front placket end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the front placket member that is sewn to the front body, and the back placket end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the back placket, which is continuous with the inner end in the body width direction of the front placket and is positioned on the back side of the front placket, are aligned.
[0089] In this case, the concentration of the ends of the multiple fabrics around the placket of the front body may cause the concentration of the ends of the placket to appear as unintended unevenness on the front side, marring the aesthetic look, or the ends of the placket may come into contact with the wearer, causing discomfort. More specifically, the thickness of the fabric differs between the placket member, which is formed by overlapping multiple fabrics (for example, four pieces: the front body, the fold-back portion, the front placket portion, and the back placket portion), and the front body (one piece), causing a step at the end of the placket member (the ends in the body width direction of the fold-back portion, the front placket portion, and the back placket portion). This step may appear on the front side, marring the aesthetic look, or the step may come into contact with the wearer, causing chafing.
[0090] In contrast, in the polo shirt 1 of this embodiment, the folded end 23c, the front placket end 61e, and the back placket end 61f are offset in the width direction, so that the step of the placket can be reduced compared to when the folded end 23c, the front placket end 61e, and the back placket end 61f are aligned in the width direction, and the discomfort felt by the wearer due to the concentration of multiple fabric ends around the placket of the front body can be reduced. More specifically, by offsetting the position of the fabric ends around the placket, the step around the placket relative to the front body is reduced from three pieces (foldback, front placket, and back placket) to one piece (back placket only). Furthermore, even when an interlining is provided as in this embodiment, the position of the interlining end 63a in the body width direction is offset from the positions of the folded end 23c, the front placket end 61e, and the back placket end 61f, so that the step is reduced from four pieces (foldback part, front placket, back placket, and interlining) to one piece (back placket). As a result, the step is prevented from appearing as an unintended unevenness on the front side, which would damage the aesthetic appearance, and the appearance around the collar of the collared shirt can be improved. Furthermore, the discomfort caused by the step coming into contact with the wearer can be suppressed.
[0091] Since the back placket end 61g is positioned outside the folded end 23c in the body width direction, the folded end 23c is covered by the back placket 61c on the inside (wearer side) of the polo shirt 1, providing an excellent appearance from the inside.
[0092] Since the front placket end 61f is located on the inner side of the folded end 23c in the width direction, the folded end 23c and the front placket end 61f are located on the inner side of the back placket end 61g in the width direction. This allows the folded end 23c and the front placket end 61f to be covered by the back placket 61c, and the aesthetic appearance from the inside is more excellent. Also, compared to the case where the width W3 from the inner edge 23b to the front placket end 61f is set larger than the width W1 of the folded portion 23a, the area of the overlapping fabrics that causes a large step in the placket can be reduced.
[0093] The width W5 from the inner edge 23b to the interlining end 63a can reduce the area of overlapping fabric that causes a large step in the placket compared to when the width W5 is set larger than the width W3 from the inner edge 23b to the front placket end 61f.
[0094] Since the width of the back placket 61c increases from the chest side located at the bottom in the body length direction to the collar side located at the top, it is easier to position the outer end 61g on the outside of the collarbone of the wearer located at the center in the body width direction, compared to when the outer end 61g of the back placket 61c extends in the body length direction with the width of the straight portion 61h. This makes it easier to prevent the outer end 61g from contacting the collarbone.
[0095] Since the width of the back placket end 61g is smoothly expanded by the curved portion 61i, it is possible to suppress the discomfort caused by the portion where the straight portion 61h changes to the curved portion 61i abutting on the wearer. Specifically, compared to the case where the curved portion 61i is continuous with the straight portion 61h and is configured as a straight line that slopes upward and outward in the body width direction, it is difficult for a corner to be formed between the straight portion 61h and the curved portion 61i, and it is possible to suppress the discomfort caused by the corner abutting on the wearer.
[0096] In the above embodiment, the collar 5 is formed by adhesion, but the present invention is not limited to this. The collar 5 may be formed such that the collar body 51 and the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 are not adhered to each other and can be separated from each other. With this configuration, as in the case of forming the collar 5 by adhesion, when the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 are folded and overlapped on the collar body 51, the peripheral portions 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5 are formed by the folded pieces 52, 53, 54 and the collar body 51, except for the long side portion 5b that is sewn to the body, and are in a bag shape along the folding line. Therefore, the cross section of the cut-off end of the part does not appear on the peripheral portion of the collar 5. Therefore, fraying of the peripheral portion of the collar is suppressed.
[0097] In the above embodiment, collar 5 has been described as having a three-layer structure consisting of collar body 51, adhesive layer 57, and folded pieces 52, 53, 54, but this is not limited thereto. As shown in FIG. 11, a strip-shaped core material 58 corresponding to collar body 51 may be sandwiched between collar body 51 and the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54. In other words, collar 5 may have a five-layer structure. Core material 58 is an adhesive core material that is adhered to collar body 51, and is made of knitted fabric, 100% polyester, and adhesive resin, such as polyamide resin or polyurethane resin. In this case, adhesive tape 57 is attached to both sides of core material 58 in the thickness direction, so that collar body 51 and each folded piece 52, 53, 54 can be adhered to each other via core material 58. By arranging core material 58 between collar body 51 and the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54, the loss of shape of collar 5 is suppressed, and the shape of collar 5 can be adjusted.
[0098] In the above embodiment, the angle a of the corner 5e is 90 degrees, but the present invention is not limited to this. As shown in FIG. 12(a), the angle a11 of the corner 105e may be an obtuse angle exceeding 90 degrees depending on the design of the collar. In this case, the collar body 151 has a trapezoid shape in which the first long side 151b sewn to the body 2 is shorter than the second long side 151a and the short sides 151c and 151d are inclined. As shown in FIG. 12(b), when the collar body 151 is sewn to the body 2, the angle between the pair of short sides 151c and 151d facing each other across the placket 6 is widened, creating a so-called wide collar.
[0099] 13(a), the angle a21 of the corner 205e may be an acute angle less than 90 degrees. In this case, the collar body 251 has a trapezoid shape in which the first long side 251b sewn to the body 2 is longer than the second long side 251a, and the short sides 251c, 251d are inclined inward in the width direction from the top 205f toward the first long side 251b. As shown in FIG. 13(b), when sewn to the body 2, a pair of short sides 251c, 251d facing each other across the placket 6 can form a long collar 205 with a long corner 205e, or the angle between the pair of short sides 251c, 251d can be narrowed as shown by the two-dot chain line.
[0100] Also, as shown by the two-dot chain line on the collar 5 on the right side of Fig. 3, the corner 305e may be arc-shaped. In this case, a so-called round collar can be created when sewn to the body 2. Also, as shown by the two-dot chain line on the collar 5 on the left side of Fig. 3, the corner 405e may be chamfered with the corners rounded off.
[0101] In the above embodiment, the interlining 63 is disposed between the front placket parts 61a, 62a and the back placket parts 61c, 62c of the placket member 6. However, the interlining 63 does not necessarily have to be provided.
[0102] In the above-described embodiment, the placket member 6 is configured such that the folded end 23c, the front placket end 61e, and the back placket end 61f are misaligned with respect to each other, but at least one of the front placket end 61e and the back placket end 61f may be misaligned with respect to the folded end 23c.
[0103] In the above embodiment, the collared shirt is a polo shirt 1, but the collared shirt is not limited to this and may be a dress shirt, a dress shirt, or the like.
[0104] The polo shirt (collared shirt) 1 of the present invention is not limited to the configuration of the above-mentioned embodiment, and various modifications are possible. [Explanation of symbols]
[0105] 1. Polo shirt (collared shirt) 2 Body 5 Collar 6. Front placket 22 Right front body 23 Left front body 22a, 23a Folded part 22b, 23b Inner edge 22c, 23c Folded end 51 Collar body 51a First long side 51b Second long side 51c, 51d A pair of short sides 52 Main fold piece (fold piece) 52a First main long side 52b Second main long side 52c, 52d Main short side 53,54 Secondary folded piece (folded piece) 53a, 54a First minor side 53b,54b 2nd secondary side 53c,54c 3rd secondary side 55 Butt joint 56 Reinforcement Tape 58 Core material 61a, 62a Front placket 61b,62b Inner end 61c,62c Back placket 61f,62f Front placket end 61g,62g Back placket end 61h Straight section 61i Curved section 63 Interlining 63a End of interlining
Claims
1. The body and a collar having a band-shaped collar body constituting a first surface located on the front side in a normal state with the collar tip facing downward, and three folded-back pieces provided continuously with the collar body and folded back on the collar body, constituting a second surface located on the back side in the normal state, the collar being sewn to the body; Equipped with the collar body has a first long side portion sewn to the body, a second long side portion opposed to the first long side portion, and a pair of short side portions connecting the first long side portion and the second long side portion, The three folded pieces are provided on the second long side portion and the pair of short side portions. Collared shirt.
2. The three folded pieces include a main folded piece continuous with the second long side portion and a pair of sub folded pieces continuous with the pair of short side portions, respectively; the main folded piece has a first main long side portion consisting of the second long side portion around which the main folded piece is folded, a second main long side portion parallel to the first main long side portion, and a pair of main short side portions connecting the first main long side portion and the second main long side portion, Each of the pair of minor folded pieces has a first minor side portion formed of the pair of short side portions around which the minor folded piece is folded, a second minor side portion inclined complementarily to the main short side portion when folded, and a third minor side portion extending along the first long side portion.
2. The collared shirt of claim 1.
3. 3. The collared shirt according to claim 1, wherein the collar is formed by bonding the collar body and the three cuff pieces together.
4. 3. The collared shirt according to claim 1, wherein the collar body and the three cuff pieces are not bonded to each other and can be separated from each other.
5. The collar comprises: a butt joint portion in which the pair of main short side portions of the main folded piece and the pair of second minor side portions of the minor folded pieces are butted together and bonded to each other; a reinforcing tape provided so as to extend along the butted portion; 3. The collared shirt of claim 2, comprising:
6. 3. The collared shirt according to claim 1, further comprising a core material between the collar body and the three cuff pieces.
7. The garment has a front body having a right front body part located on the right side of the body width and a left front body part located on the left side of the body width, The right front body portion and the left front body portion each have a folded-back portion that is folded back to the back side of the front body at a center side in the body width direction, The garment further includes a front flap member adjacent to an inner edge of the folded portion in the width direction and extending along the length direction of the front body. The front placket member has a front placket portion located on the front side of the front body, and a back placket portion located on the back side of the front placket portion, continuous with the inner end portion in the body width direction of the front placket portion, and extending toward the outside in the width direction, At least one of a front placket end portion on the outer side in the body width direction of the front placket portion and a back placket end portion on the outer side in the body width direction of the back placket portion is disposed so as to be shifted in the body width direction relative to a folded end portion on the outer side in the body width direction of the folded-back portion. Collared shirt.
8. The width from the inner edge to the end of the back placket is set to be larger than the width of the folded-back portion.
8. The collared shirt of claim 7.
9. The width from the inner edge to the front flap end is set smaller than the width of the folded-back portion.
9. The collared shirt according to claim 7 or 8.
10. A strip-shaped interlining extending in the body length direction along the front placket is sandwiched between the front placket and the back placket, The end of the interlining on the outer side in the body width direction is arranged to be shifted in the body width direction from the folded end, the front placket end, and the back placket end.
8. The collared shirt of claim 7.
11. The width from the inner edge to the end of the interlining is set to be equal to or smaller than the width from the inner edge to the end of the front placket.
11. The collared shirt of claim 10.
12. The width of the back placket increases from the bottom to the top.
9. The collared shirt according to claim 7 or 8.
13. The back placket end portion has a straight portion located at a lower portion and a curved portion that is continuous with the straight portion and curves upward and outward in the body width direction.
9. The collared shirt according to claim 7 or 8.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
JP1982035311U