Dyeing method

Abstract

To provide a dyeing method capable of efficiently preparing a kimono using both Yuzen dyeing and pail dyeing without applying correction treatment by reducing the slippage of a feather as much as possible even when elongation or shrinkage occurs in a cloth.SOLUTION: A dyeing method for applying two dyeing processes of Yuzen dyeing and pail dyeing to a fabric includes an embossing process for embossing the fabric, a Yuzen dyeing process for dyeing the embossed fabric, and a pail dyeing process for applying pail dyeing to the embossed fabric, wherein the embossing process is performed prior to the Yuzen dyeing process and the pail dyeing process, and the embossing process performs both the Yuzen dyeing embossing and the pail dyeing embossing together.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a dyeing method that uses both Yuzen dyeing and barrel dyeing. [Background technology]

[0002] Traditionally, kimonos have been dyed using two different methods: Yuzen dyeing and Oke dyeing.

[0003] There are several techniques (dyeing methods) for Yuzen dyeing, such as stencil yuzen dyeing and hand-inserted yuzen dyeing. Stencil yuzen dyeing involves applying a pattern thread, color paste, and a base paste pattern. Hand-inserted yuzen dyeing involves applying a pattern thread, color paste (depending on the pattern), and a base paste pattern (after steaming and rinsing the dye), and then manually inserting the thread into the pattern thread.

[0004] In both techniques, in the case of Yuzen dyeing, after stenciling, the base is dyed using a technique called hikizome, in which a brush is dipped in room temperature dye and pulled over the base, and after the base dye has dried, the color is fixed by steaming, and excess base paste and auxiliary agents are washed away by rinsing with water, and in this process, the base paste in the pattern parts that have been prevented from dyeing by the base paste is washed away, so in stencil yuzen dyeing, the pattern dyed by the color paste stencil appears, while in hand-sashi yuzen dyeing, the pattern that has been prevented from dyeing by the base paste appears white. In hand-sashi yuzen dyeing, color is applied to the exposed white parts using a brush or paintbrush with room temperature dye, and after drying, the dye is fixed by steaming in the same way as with hand-sashi yuzen dyeing.

[0005] In addition, okezome is a technique in which the thread is placed according to the shape of the oke dye, and then the part to be oke-dyed is removed from the oke, while the part not to be dyed is placed on the edge of the oke and fixed with a lid so that it is filled in the oke, and then this filled oke is dyed in a hot dye solution.This okezome does not produce small, delicate patterns like Yuzen patterns, but rather produces large, rough dyed expressions such as cloud-like patterns, rip-like patterns, and pine bark-like patterns.

[0006] When two different dyeing techniques, Yuzen dyeing and Oke dyeing, are used to create a single kimono, Yuzen dyeing (hiki dyeing) is generally done at a hikizome dyeing shop and Oke dyeing at a okezome dyeing shop, so they are done separately. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0007] As mentioned above, Yuzen dyeing uses a technique called pull dyeing. In this pull dyeing process, tensioners are attached to both ends of the fabric (bolt of fabric), each tensioner is fixed to a support with string, and stretchers are set at equal intervals to keep the width of the fabric constant. After that, both ends of the fabric with the tensioners attached are pulled, and the work is carried out with the fabric taut, so after the work is done, the fabric ends up stretched in the length direction due to this pulling.

[0008] In addition, barrel dyeing involves drawing the threads together when filling the barrel, and performing other processes such as hat shibori and Hikita shibori, which cause the fabric to shrink around the periphery of the shibori process after the process.

[0009] Therefore, when dyeing processes that combine Yuzen dyeing and oke dyeing are performed, for example, as shown in Figure 6, if oke dyeing is performed after Yuzen dyeing, the oke dyeing stencil is performed while the fabric is stretched, and if oke dyeing is performed after Yuzen dyeing, the Yuzen dyeing stencil is performed while the surrounding fabric where the tie-dyeing process has been performed is shrunk.If the stencil is performed in this way while the fabric is stretched or shrunk and the standards are off, a problem occurs in which the pattern does not fit (the pattern becomes misaligned), as shown in Figure 7, and if this misalignment of the pattern exceeds the allowable range, appropriate corrections are made.

[0010] Specifically, if there is a misalignment in the pattern, priority is given to matching the thread pattern, so the misalignment occurs in the barrel-dyed part, and this misalignment in the barrel-dyed part has to be corrected.When correcting the barrel-dyed part, if the base color is light, the barrel-dyed color is added to the base color to make the pattern match, and if both the base color and the barrel-dyed color are dark, one of the colors is removed, and the colors are matched to make the pattern match, but these correction processes are very troublesome.

[0011] The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned circumstances, and aims to provide a dyeing method that can reduce the misalignment of patterns as much as possible even if the fabric expands or shrinks, and can efficiently produce kimonos using both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing without carrying out any correction process. [Means for solving the problem]

[0012] The gist of the present invention will be explained with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[0013] This dyeing method involves two dyeing processes, Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing, on fabric, and includes a shaping step for shaping the fabric, a Yuzen dyeing step for applying a brush dye to the shaped fabric, and a tub dyeing step for applying tub dyeing to the shaped fabric, the shaping step being carried out before the Yuzen dyeing step and the tub dyeing step, and further, the shaping step is characterized in that both the Yuzen dyeing and the tub dyeing are carried out together.

[0014] In addition, the dyeing method according to claim 1 relates to a dyeing method characterized in that the shaping step performs at least the thread marking, the flat marking and the barrel line marking in a single work at the board shop.

[0015] In addition, in the dyeing method described in claim 2, the shaping process relates to a dyeing method characterized in that the tub line shape is shaped after the thread line shape is shaped, and the base shape is shaped after the tub line shape is shaped.

[0016] Furthermore, in the dyeing method described in any one of claims 1 to 3, the tub dyeing process includes thread insertion, which is characterized in that thread is sewn along the tub line at a predetermined interval from the tub line applied to the fabric in the shaping process.

[0017] The present invention also relates to a dyeing method as set forth in claim 4, characterized in that the predetermined interval is 4 mm to 7 mm. [Effects of the Invention]

[0018] As described above, the present invention provides an epoch-making dyeing method that minimizes misalignment of the pattern even if the fabric expands or shrinks, and allows kimonos that combine Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing to be efficiently produced without any correction process. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0019] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 is a process flow diagram (outline) of the present embodiment. [Figure 2] FIG. 2 is a process flow diagram (details) of the present embodiment. [Figure 3] FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram showing each shaping and thread insertion location in this embodiment. [Figure 4] FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing the state of pattern matching in this embodiment. [Figure 5] 10 is a photograph showing the finished state of the main part in this example. [Figure 6] This is a process flow diagram (outline) of a dyeing method that combines conventional Yuzen dyeing and barrel dyeing. [Figure 7] 1 is a schematic diagram showing the state of pattern matching in a conventional dyeing processing method that uses both Yuzen dyeing and barrel dyeing. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0020] A preferred embodiment of the present invention will be briefly described below, illustrating the operation of the present invention with reference to the drawings.

[0021] In the present invention, as shown in FIG. 1, a shaping process is carried out prior to the Yuzen dyeing process and the tub dyeing process, and in this shaping process, shaping for both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing is carried out together.

[0022] In other words, in the present invention, both the Yuzen dyeing stencil and the tub dyeing stencil are performed on fabric that has not been dyed and has not stretched or shrunk (because the Yuzen dyeing stencil and the tub dyeing stencil are stenciled using the same reference position that is not misaligned), so even if the fabric stretches or shrinks due to subsequent Yuzen dyeing or tub dyeing, the Yuzen dyeing stencil and the tub dyeing stencil are already stenciled in the correct position, so misalignment is prevented as much as possible when the patterns are matched.

[0023] This allows kimonos that combine Yuzen dyeing and barrel dyeing to be produced efficiently without any corrections.

[0024] Furthermore, while traditionally Yuzen dyeing was done at a dyeing shop and tub dyeing at a tub dyeing shop, this invention makes it possible to produce both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing in one place, making it possible to more efficiently produce kimonos that combine both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing. [Example]

[0025] Specific embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

[0026] This example is a dyeing method for applying two dyeing processes, Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing, to white fabric, and as shown in Figure 1, it includes a design and stencil making process for creating a design for a pattern and a stencil based on this design, a stencil making process for applying a stencil to the white fabric using the stencil, a Yuzen dyeing process for applying Hikizome dyeing or Hand-inserted Yuzen dyeing to the stenciled white fabric, and a tub dyeing process for applying tub dyeing to the stenciled white fabric, and the stencil making process is carried out before the Yuzen dyeing process and the tub dyeing process, and further, in this stencil making process, both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing are performed together.

[0027] Specifically, as shown in FIG. 2, this example includes a design and pattern making process, a stencil making process, a Yuzen dyeing process (first time), a barrel dyeing process, a Yuzen dyeing process (second time), and a processing process, and the work is carried out in this order.

[0028] The design and pattern creation process is the process of creating designs and patterns. Design creation involves creating a full-size kimono design called the main design (which includes the pattern and barrel lines for barrel dyeing and serves as the base drawing for creating each pattern), as well as instruction designs to be used when creating barrel lines, color patterns with colored Yuzen dye ground patterns, and barrel line blue and white patterns based on this main design.

[0029] Specifically, when creating this design, the tub line is drawn in as a dotted line to distinguish it from the picture. When drawing this tub line, it is drawn at a certain distance from the handle (approximately 4mm to 7mm, preferably about 4.5mm (1.5 bu) to about 6mm (2 bu)) so that the tub line does not touch the handle.

[0030] In addition, patterns are created based on this design and the instruction design, including thread patterns, color patterns, Hikita blue patterns, okesen blue patterns, and fusegata patterns.

[0031] In this example, in the design and pattern making process, in order to check for defects in each completed pattern and to use it as a processing instruction diagram when performing dyeing processing, each pattern is also printed onto a nonwoven fabric other than the white fabric (not shown).

[0032] The shaping process involves inspecting the white fabric, shaping for Yuzen dyeing, and shaping for Oke dyeing.

[0033] In this embodiment, as shown in Figure 2, before carrying out both the Yuzen dyeing process and the Oke dyeing process, shaping for both Yuzen dyeing and Oke dyeing, specifically shaping for at least the Itome shaping, the Fushi shaping, and the Oke line shaping (in this embodiment, the Itome shaping, the Iro shaping, the Oke line Aohana shaping, the Hikita Aohana shaping, and the Fushi shaping) is carried out in a single operation at the weaver's workshop.

[0034] In detail, first, the white fabric that has been inspected is stretched on a pattern board. At that time, the weave of the white fabric is evenly aligned and stretched on the board without any stretching or shrinking.

[0035] Next, marks common to the Itome, Iro, and Fuse patterns of Yuzen dyeing, and the Okesen Aohana pattern of Okezome dyeing, are placed on the edge of the white fabric using the shoulder and hemline as reference points, and the stenciling is carried out in the order of Itome, Iro, Okesen Aohana, and Fuse patterns according to these marks (Figure 3 shows the state after each stenciling has been applied).

[0036] After each step is completed, the white fabric is sandwiched between a special sheet and rolled up, and then moved on to the next step (Yuzen dyeing).

[0037] In addition, when sizing is not performed using the Hikizome dyeing method, the Itome, Okesen Aohana, and Hikita Aohana patterns are used. In addition, when sizing is not performed using the Hikizome dyeing method but there is ground pattern and color paste sizing, the Itome, Ground pattern color paste, Okesen Aohana, Hikita Aohana, and Fuse patterns are used.

[0038] The Yuzen dyeing step is a step of dyeing the predetermined areas that have been shaped in the shaping step.

[0039] In this example, the Yuzen dyeing process is carried out twice, as shown in Figure 2. The first Yuzen dyeing process is carried out after the stencil-setting process, and the second Yuzen dyeing process is carried out after the vat-dyeing process.

[0040] In the first Yuzen dyeing process, the fabric is subjected to ground-in and brush-dyeing. Ground-in is a pre-treatment to ensure uniform dyeing in the brush-dyeing process. In this example, the fabric is made from a mixture of soybean juice, funori liquid, and an auxiliary agent to create a ground-in liquid, which is then brushed evenly onto the front and back of the white fabric.

[0041] After this process, the fabric is dyed using a dye in the usual way, and then steamed and washed.

[0042] Furthermore, during the first Yuzen dyeing process (especially the ground-dyeing process), which involves the ground-dyeing and pull-dyeing steps, the white fabric is pulled at both ends and kept taut during the process, causing the entire white fabric to stretch longitudinally.

[0043] In the second Yuzen dyeing process, hand-inserted Yuzen dyeing is carried out in the usual way, and after inspection, the fabric is steamed and washed in the same way as the first Yuzen dyeing.

[0044] The tub dyeing process involves tub dyeing after thread insertion and shibori processing.

[0045] In this example, as shown in FIG. 2, threading, inspection, shibori processing, steaming, tubing, tub dyeing, inspection, shibori loosening, and water washing are carried out.

[0046] The thread is inserted by sewing along the tub line applied to the white fabric during the shaping process, at a predetermined interval (approximately 4mm to 7mm, preferably about 4.5mm (1.5 minutes) to about 6mm (2 minutes)).

[0047] Specifically, wet the area where the thread will be inserted with water, and as shown in Figure 3, sew the thread into a point close to the pattern stitch about 4.5 mm (1.5 min) outside the tub line, and continue the work while gathering the white fabric (pulling the thread together) (when filling the tub, the tub's thread should be pulled together so that the center is straight and the wrinkles and height of the gathered white fabric are uniform).

[0048] The drawing process includes Hikita drawing, hat drawing, etc. (both Hikita drawing and hat drawing may be performed, or only one of them may be performed).

[0049] In barrel dyeing, the first step is to put the steamed white fabric into a barrel after the shibori process.

[0050] When packing the fabric into the tub, the part to be tub-dyed (in this example, the drawn part is placed outside the tub to be tub-dyed) is removed from the tub, and the part not to be dyed is placed inside the tub, placed on the rim of the tub, and secured with a lid (a sealing member (in this example, a twisted paper member) is placed around the rim of the tub to prevent the dye liquid from entering the tub, and the lid is then tightly fastened and secured using a special tool).

[0051] Specifically, a needle is inserted along the needle marking line on the rim of the tub to secure the white fabric in place (this position does not change even after the tub lid is placed on top, and this position becomes the reference line that determines the edge of the tub when dyed). Note that the needle marking line is not the center of the tub rim, but is located about 5 to 6 mm from the outside of the tub (the tub-dyed side).

[0052] The space between this needle-stitched line and the edge of the tub, that is, the space between the position where the thread is inserted and the actual tub dyeing, is the gap between the tub line blue flower and the pattern thread and ground color paste (this space is spaced apart at a fixed interval to avoid the pattern, which is easily affected by dye insertion and pressure).

[0053] After the fabric is packed into the tub, it is dyed in a tub. In tub dyeing, white fabric is immersed in a dye solution containing dye and auxiliaries at a high temperature (approximately 90-100°C). Dyeing in a tub is not done with delicate, small patterns like Yuzen patterns, but with larger areas such as cloud patterns, slash patterns, and pine bark patterns, resulting in a rough dyeing that makes the most of the characteristics of tub tie-dyeing.

[0054] After dyeing in a barrel, the fabric is immersed in an alkaline solution to fix the color, and then the alkaline solution is removed by rinsing with water.

[0055] After this alkali-removing rinsing, the state of the tub dyeing is inspected, and if there are no problems, the fabric is further rinsed with water while loosening the squeegee, and after the loosening and rinsing are complete, the fabric is placed in a drying chamber and dried.

[0056] In this barrel dyeing process, squeezing the flat fabric, such as when stuffing the white fabric into the barrel, hat shibori, or Hikita shibori, causes the fabric to swell as wrinkles, and the fabric is pulled around the shibori, causing the white fabric to shrink.

[0057] After the barrel dyeing process, the second Yuzen dyeing is carried out.

[0058] The second Yuzen dyeing process is done by hand using the usual method, and after the process is completed, the fabric is steamed and washed in water, just like the first time.

[0059] The processing step involves decorative processes other than Yuzen dyeing and barrel dyeing, specifically gold processing and embroidery.

[0060] In this embodiment, the thread pattern is gold-plated.

[0061] In this embodiment, after the above processing step, a basting is performed, and then the matching of the patterns is checked (inspected) before the product is completed (dyeing work is completed).

[0062] The effects of the present embodiment performed as described above will be described below.

[0063] In this embodiment, the shaping process is carried out before the Yuzen dyeing process and the tub dyeing process, and in this shaping process, both the Yuzen dyeing shaping and the tub dyeing shaping are done together in one operation at the boarding shop. Therefore, both the Yuzen dyeing shaping and the tub dyeing shaping are done on white fabric that has not been dyed and has not stretched or shrunk. Therefore, even if the fabric stretches or shrinks due to the subsequent Yuzen dyeing or tub dyeing, there will be no misalignment when the patterns are matched, as shown in Figure 4.

[0064] This allows kimonos that combine Yuzen dyeing and barrel dyeing to be produced efficiently without any corrections.

[0065] In addition, in this embodiment, when creating the design, the tub lines are drawn at a regular interval (about 4 mm to 7 mm, preferably about 4.5 mm (1.5 bu) to about 6 mm (2 bu)) from the pattern, and the thread is inserted along the tub lines at a specified interval (about 4 mm to 7 mm, preferably about 4.5 mm (1.5 bu) to about 6 mm (2 bu)) from the tub lines drawn on the white fabric.As a result, as shown in Figure 5, the Yuzen dyed pattern and the tub dyed area are distinguished (do not overlap), and the unevenness of the dyeing edge, which is a characteristic of tub dyeing, can be clearly seen.

[0066] Furthermore, in the past, Yuzen dyeing was done at a dyeing shop and tub dyeing was done at a tub dyeing shop, but according to this embodiment, it is possible to produce both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing in one place, making it possible to more efficiently produce kimonos that combine both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing.

[0067] The present invention is not limited to the present embodiment, and the specific configuration of each component can be designed as appropriate.

Claims

1. This dyeing method is for subjecting fabric to two dyeing processes, Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing, and includes a shaping step for shaping the fabric, a Yuzen dyeing step for applying a draw dye to the shaped fabric, and a tub dyeing step for applying tub dyeing to the shaped fabric, the shaping step being carried out before the Yuzen dyeing step and the tub dyeing step, and further characterized in that the shaping step involves carrying out both the Yuzen dyeing shaping and the tub dyeing shaping together.

2. 2. The dyeing method according to claim 1, wherein the shaping step comprises shaping at least the thread pattern, the flat pattern and the tub line pattern in a single operation at the dyeing site.

3. 3. The dyeing method according to claim 2, wherein the shaping step comprises shaping the tub-shaped pattern after shaping the thread-shaped pattern, and shaping the basin-shaped pattern after shaping the tub-shaped pattern.

4. In the dyeing method described in any one of claims 1 to 3, the tub dyeing process includes thread insertion, which is characterized in that thread is sewn along the tub line at a predetermined interval from the tub line applied to the fabric in the shaping process.

5. 5. The dyeing method according to claim 4, wherein the predetermined interval is 4 mm to 7 mm.

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