Pretreatment composition (PC) containing malic acid and dtpmp for coloring or bleaching method of keratin fibers

Abstract

To provide a composition that can be used as a pretreatment composition for a coloring or bleaching method of keratin fibers, preferably to protect keratin fibers during the coloring or bleaching method.SOLUTION: Provided is a composition that contains (A) malic acid and / or a salt thereof, (B) at least one chelating agent including diethylenetriaminepenta (methylenephosphonic acid) and / or a salt thereof, (C) at least one thickener, (D) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent, (E) at least one surfactant, and (F) optionally at least one care ingredient. Also provided are: use of the composition as a pretreatment composition for a coloring or bleaching method; use of the composition to protect keratinous fibers during a coloring or bleaching method; methods for coloring or bleaching keratinous fibers; kits including the composition and an oxidative hair coloring composition; and multi-compartment containers having a compartment housing the composition and a compartment housing the oxidizing composition.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] FIELD OF THE INVENTION The presently claimed invention relates to a composition (PC) comprising as ingredients malic acid and / or malate(s) (component (A)), at least one chelating agent comprising diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) and / or diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) salt(s) (component (B)), at least one thickener (component (C)), at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent (component (D)), at least one surfactant (component (E)), and optionally at least one care ingredient (component (F)), the composition (PC) having a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 6.5. Further aspects of the presently claimed invention relate to the use of the composition (PC) as a pretreatment composition for a coloring or bleaching method, the use of the composition (PC) for protecting keratinous fibers during a coloring or bleaching method, and a method for coloring or bleaching keratinous fibers, in which the composition (PC) is applied to the keratinous fibers. Another aspect of the claimed invention relates to a kit comprising a composition (PC) and an oxidative hair coloring composition (HC). Another aspect of the claimed invention relates to a multi-compartment container comprising a first compartment containing the composition (PC) and a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition. [Background technology]

[0002] Background of the Invention Oxidative hair coloring or bleaching processes are well known for altering the color of natural keratin fibers, such as human hair. Bleaching methods typically use compositions containing at least one oxidizing agent. Oxidative hair coloring methods typically use oxidative hair coloring compositions containing an oxidative dye precursor and at least one oxidizing agent. Consumers desire the ability to color their hair in a wide range of shades. This requires high hair lift to achieve a wide range of shades. To achieve a wide range of shades, multiple dye precursors are typically used. Permanent and semi-permanent oxidative hair coloring compositions have been used for decades in professional beauty salons and in retail products for home use. Oxidative hair coloring compositions typically consist of a so-called hair dye composition and an oxidizing composition, which are typically packaged separately and mixed immediately before use to form the oxidative hair coloring composition. The hair dye composition contains an oxidative dye precursor, typically at least one oxidative primary dye precursor and at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor, and an alkalizing agent, typically an organic amine such as ammonia, monoethanolamine, and / or 2-amino-1-propanol. The oxidative primary dye precursor reacts with the oxidative coupler dye precursor in the presence of an oxidizing agent to form a larger colored dye product within the hair. The oxidizing composition typically contains a stabilized form of hydrogen peroxide. The oxidizing composition is sometimes called a "developer composition."

[0003] Although these oxidative hair coloring or bleaching compositions certainly have coloring or bleaching power, in some cases they may cause deterioration of the quality of keratin fibers, such as human hair. The constituent proteins of keratin fibers may be denatured, which may result in unstable proteins. The higher the content of unstable proteins in keratin fibers, the more severely damaged the keratin fibers are. This deterioration of keratin fibers, such as human hair, may result in substantial breakage of the keratin fibers during combing, especially when the oxidative hair coloring or bleaching composition is applied to sensitive hair.

[0004] As a result, it is common to apply care compositions containing conditioning agents to limit the deterioration of keratinous fibers or to improve the cosmetic properties of keratinous fibers, such as human hair, but these care compositions sometimes impair the oxidative coloring or bleaching of keratinous fibers.

[0005] There is a need to provide a composition (PC) that is suitable for use as a pretreatment composition for protecting keratinous fibers during oxidative coloring processes. Summary of the Invention

[0006] Summary of the Invention The object of the presently claimed invention is to provide a composition (PC) that can be used as a pretreatment composition for a process for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, preferably to protect keratin fibers during the process.

[0007] The purpose of this study is to (A) malic acid and / or malate(s); (B) at least one chelating agent comprising diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) and / or diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) salt(s); (C) at least one thickening agent; (D) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; (E) at least one surfactant component, and (F) optionally at least one care ingredient A composition (PC) comprising: This was resolved by the use of a composition (PC) with a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 6.5.

[0008] In one embodiment, composition (PC) may comprise at least one additional component as component (G).

[0009] In another aspect, the claimed invention is directed to the use of a composition (PC) as defined herein as a pretreatment composition for a coloring or bleaching method.

[0010] In another aspect, the claimed invention is directed to the use of a composition (PC) as defined herein for protecting keratinous fibers during a coloring or bleaching process.

[0011] In yet another aspect, the claimed invention comprises: i) applying a composition (PC) as defined herein to keratinous fibers, ii) applying a coloring or bleaching composition to the keratin fibers The present invention is directed to a method for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, comprising:

[0012] In yet another aspect, the presently claimed invention is directed to a kit comprising a composition (PC) as defined herein, an oxidative hair coloring composition (HC) as defined herein, and optionally a conditioner.

[0013] In yet another aspect, the claimed invention comprises: - a first compartment containing a composition (PC) as defined herein; - a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising as a component at least one oxidizing agent (HD), - optionally a third compartment containing a hair dye composition comprising as ingredients at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor (HA), at least one oxidative primary dye precursor (HB), and at least one alkalizing agent (HC), and - optionally a fourth compartment containing a conditioner The present invention relates to a multi-compartment container comprising:

[0014] It has surprisingly been found that at least one chelating agent comprising diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) and / or its salts (component (B)) can be used in composition (PC), particularly in combination with malic acid and / or its salts (component (A)). It has surprisingly been found by the inventors of the present invention that the use of composition (PC) as a pre-treatment composition for a coloring or bleaching method can reduce the level of damage to hair.

[0015] Without being bound by theory, it is hypothesized that divalent and trivalent metal cations, such as iron cations or copper cations, present on the surface of keratin fibers or in the water used during oxidative hair coloring or bleaching processes may, upon contact with hydrogen peroxide, cause the formation of aggressive radicals that result in high levels of hair damage. The chelating agent (component (B)), particularly when combined with malic acid (component (A)), appears to reduce the effectiveness of the formation of aggressive radicals induced by divalent and trivalent metal ions. As a result, when used as a pretreatment composition, Composition (PC) can reduce hair damage during oxidative hair coloring or bleaching processes. Surprisingly, Composition (PC) has been found to have improved storage stability. The pH value of Composition (PC) does not change even when Composition (PC) is stored at elevated temperatures. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0016] [Figure 1] The x-axis shows temperature (°C) and the y-axis shows heat flow (W / g). The denaturation temperature is indicated by the peak temperature Td. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] Detailed Description of the Invention The present inventors have surprisingly found that a combination of malic acid and / or malic acid salt(s) (component (A)) with diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (component (B)) and / or diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) salt(s) (component (B)), when used as a pre-treatment composition (PC), is effective in protecting keratinous fibers in methods for oxidative hair coloring or bleaching.

[0018] Component (A) In this case, the terms "(A)", "component (A)", and "malic acid and / or malate(s)" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning.

[0019] Malic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with the molecular formula C4H6O5. Malic acid has two stereoenantiomeric forms: the L-enantiomer and the D-enantiomer. Only the L-enantiomer exists in nature. Racemic malic acid can be produced by double hydration of maleic anhydride. Racemic malic acid consists of a mixture of the L- and D-isomers of malic acid.

[0020] Malic acid and / or malate(s) are envisaged as one of the active ingredients contained in compositions (PC) for protecting keratin fibres.

[0021] As component (A), preferably racemic malic acid and / or a salt of racemic malic acid is used. Suitable salts of malic acid, preferably racemic malic acid, are the sodium or ammonium salts of malic acid, preferably the sodium or ammonium salts of racemic malic acid.

[0022] In a particularly preferred embodiment, racemic malic acid is used as component (A). Racemic malic acid has the CAS number 6915-15-7.

[0023] In one embodiment, component (A) is generally present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount ranging from 0.4 to 1.2% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of composition (PC).

[0024] In the present invention, all weight amounts (% by weight) indicated in consideration of component (A) contained in composition (PC) are in each case calculated based on malic acid, preferably in the form of the free acid.

[0025] Ingredient (B) In this case, the terms “(B)”, “component (B)”, and “at least one chelating agent comprising diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) and / or diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) salt(s)” are used synonymously and, therefore, preferably have the same meaning.

[0026] The term "at least one chelating agent" means exactly one chelating agent, but also a mixture of two or more different chelating agents. Preferably, a mixture of at least two different chelating agents is used.

[0027] Diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) is also known by its IUPAC name {[(phosphonomethyl)azanediyl]bis[ethane-2,1-diylnitrilobis(methylene)]}tetrakis(phosphonic acid) and CAS number 15827-60-8. The abbreviation for diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) is DTPMP.

[0028] DTPMP is usually used as a salt because the acid form has very limited solubility in water and tends to crystallize in highly concentrated aqueous solutions. Preferably, the hepta-sodium salt of DTPMP (DTPMP.7Na), which has CAS number 22042-96-2, is used.

[0029] In the present invention, the terms "diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) and ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid" and "DTPMP" include the free acid of DTPMP and salts of DTPMP.

[0030] In a preferred embodiment, component (B) comprises DTPMP and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid salt(s).

[0031] The abbreviation for ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid is EDTA. EDTA's CAS number is 60-00-4. EDTA is available as the free acid or in several salt forms, including disodium EDTA, sodium calcium EDTA, and tetrasodium EDTA.

[0032] The terms "ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid" and "EDTA" in the present invention include the free acid of EDTA as well as salts of EDTA. Preferably, the disodium salt of EDTA having CAS number 6381-92-6 is used.

[0033] In addition to DTPMP and optionally EDTA, component (B) included in composition (PC) of the present invention may, in one embodiment, comprise one, two, or more additional chelating agents selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid (HEDTA), ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(orthohydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), dimethylglucamine (DMG), N-(1-carboxyethyl)iminodiacetic acid, methylglycine-N,N-diacetic acid (MGDA), aminotrimethylenephosphonic acid (ATMP), and salts thereof.

[0034] In the present invention, all weight amounts (% by weight) indicated taking into account the chelating agents contained in component (B) are in each case calculated based on the chelating agent in the form of the free acid.

[0035] In other words, when the amount of DTPMP contained in the oxidative coloring composition is expressed as a weight percent, the weight percent amount of DTPMP is calculated based on the free acid form of DTPMP, not on the salt form of DTPMP, and the same applies to EDTA and other chelating agents that may be contained in the composition (PC).

[0036] In a preferred embodiment, composition (PC) contains component (B) in an amount generally in the range of 0.1% by weight or more and 1.5% by weight or less, preferably in the range of 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, and particularly preferably in the range of 0.4 to 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (PC).

[0037] The amount of component (B) at this point means the amount of all chelating agents contained in component (B), and preferably means the amount of all chelating agents contained in composition (PC).

[0038] In a particularly preferred embodiment, component (B) comprises a mixture of 0.2 to 1.4 wt. % DTPMP and 0.05 to 0.5 wt. % EDTA, where the wt. % values ​​are based on the total weight of composition (PC).

[0039] In a particularly preferred embodiment, component (B) comprises a mixture of 0.5 to 1.0 wt. % DTPMP and 0.1 to 0.2 wt. % EDTA, where the wt. % values ​​are based on the total weight of composition (PC).

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, component (B) comprises, in addition to DTPMP and optionally EDTA, less than 10 wt. %, more preferably less than 5 wt. %, of a further chelating agent, based on the total weight of component (B) contained in composition (PC), preferably based on the total weight of composition (PC).

[0041] In a more preferred embodiment, component (B) does not contain any further chelating agents besides DTPMP and optionally EDTA. In another preferred embodiment, composition (PC) does not contain any further chelating agents besides DTPMP and optionally EDTA.

[0042] Ingredients (C) In this case, the terms "(C)", "component (C)", and "at least one thickener" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one thickener" means exactly one thickener, and also means a mixture of two or more different thickeners.

[0043] The compositions (PC) of the presently claimed invention preferably include at least one thickener, particularly a polymeric thickener, as known in the art, in an amount sufficient to provide a viscosity to the composition (PC) that allows for easy application to the hair without excessive dripping from the hair.

[0044] In a preferred embodiment, the composition (PC) comprises as component (C) at least one water-soluble polymer, preferably selected from the group consisting of cellulose-based polymers, polysaccharide-based polymers, and acrylate-based polymers.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, composition (PC) contains component (C) in an amount generally in the range of 0.1% by weight or more and 5.0% by weight or less, preferably in the range of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and particularly preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (PC).

[0046] Examples of commonly used polymeric thickeners include those sold by Rohm & Haas under the trademarks Aculyn-22 and Aculyn-33, those sold by Noveon under the trademarks Permulen TR1, Carbopol 2020, and Carbopol Ultrez-21, and those sold by National Starch under the trademarks Structure 2001 and Structure 3001. Other suitable polymeric thickeners include polyether polyurethanes, such as Aculyn-44 and Aculyn-46 by Rohm and Haas. Another suitable polymeric thickener is cellulose modified with a group containing at least one C8 to C30 fatty chain, such as the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330CS sold by Aqualon.

[0047] In one embodiment of the claimed invention, the composition (PC) is selected from the group consisting of, but not limited to, xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose (available as AQUACOTE®), hydroxyethylcellulose (NATROSOL®), carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose (available as KLUCEL®), hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose (available as NATROSOL® Plus 330), N-vinylpyrrolidone (available as POVIDONE®), acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconic acid copolymer (available as STRUCTURE® 3001), hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (available as STRUCTURE® ZEA), polyethoxylated urethane or polycarbamyl polyglycol ester (e.g., PEG-150 / decyl / SMDI copolymer (e.g., ACULYN® 44), PEG-150 / stearyl / SMDI copolymer (available as ACULYN® 46), trihydroxystearin (available as THIXCIN®), acrylate copolymer (e.g., available as ACULYN® 33), or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymer (e.g., acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (e.g., available as ACULYN® 22 and available as ACULYN® 88), acrylates / vinyl neodecanoic acid crosspolymer (available as ACULYN® 38), acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer (available as ACULYN® 28), acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (available as Carbopol® ETD 2020), at least one fatty chain, andand at least one hydrophilic unit selected from polyether urethanes containing at least one fatty chain.

[0048] Suitable cellulosic polymers are, for example, selected from the group consisting of methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, and cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.

[0049] Preferred cellulosic polymers are selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose.

[0050] Suitable polysaccharide-based polymers are, for example, selected from the group consisting of xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

[0051] Preferred polysaccharide-based polymers are selected from the group consisting of xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

[0052] Suitable acrylate-based polymers are, for example, selected from the group consisting of acrylate copolymers, hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymers, acrylates / vinyl neodecanoic acid crosspolymers, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers, and acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers.

[0053] Preferred acrylate-based polymers are selected from the group consisting of acrylate copolymers, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymers, and acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers.

[0054] Ingredients (D) In this case, the terms "(D)", "component (D)" and "at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent" means exactly one cosmetically acceptable solvent, but also a mixture of two or more different cosmetically acceptable solvents. Preferably, a mixture of two or more different cosmetically acceptable solvents is used as component (D).

[0055] The cosmetically acceptable solvent (component (D)) used in composition (PC) is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic. Typically, the cosmetically acceptable solvent comprises water and one or more monohydric and / or polyhydric C1-C4 alcohols. According to an embodiment, component (D) comprises water and at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and ethoxydiglycol.

[0056] In one embodiment, component (D) is generally present in an amount ranging from 71.75 to 98.7% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 75.5 to 97.15% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount ranging from 79.5 to 96.4% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of composition (PC).

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, component (D) comprises at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, and particularly preferably at least 80% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of component (D) contained in composition (PC).

[0058] Ingredient (E) In this case, the terms "(E)", "component (E)", and "at least one surfactant" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one surfactant" refers to exactly one surfactant, and also refers to a mixture of two or more different surfactants.

[0059] Suitable surfactants for component (E) include anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants.

[0060] The anionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl amido sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amido sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isethionates; N-acyltaurates; and salts of mixtures thereof (e.g., alkali salts, e.g., sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts, magnesium salts, etc.). The alkyl or acyl radicals of all of these various compounds contain, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radicals are selected, for example, from phenyl and benzyl groups. Weak anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, e.g., those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof. Anionic derivatives of polysaccharides, e.g., carboxyalkyl ethers of alkyl polyglucosides, can also be used.

[0061] Suitable anionic surfactant(s) (ingredient (E)) may contain at least one anionic functional group in its head group selected from sulfate, sulfonate, and phosphate.

[0062] Suitable alkyl sulfates include ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate (sodium dodecyl sulfate, SLS, or SDS), and alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium laureth sulfate (sodium lauryl ether sulfate or SLES) and sodium myreth sulfate. Further suitable anionic surfactants may include docusate (dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate), alkyl aryl ether phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium laureth sulfate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and sodium lauryl sulfoacetate.

[0063] Preferred anionic surfactants may be selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium laureth ether sulfate, sodium dodecyl sulfate, ammonium laureth ether sulfate, ammonium dodecyl sulfate, alkyl benzene sulfonates, and combinations thereof.

[0064] The surfactant (component (E)) may be a nonionic surfactant. The nonionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of lanolin alcohol, polyoxyethylene ethers of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. The nonionic surfactant may preferably be ceteareth-n (n is 2 to 100, or 10 to 30). Suitable nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds (see, for example, MR Porter's "Handbook of Surfactants," Blackie & Son, Glasgow and London, 1991, pp. 116-178). Preferred surfactants include nonionic surfactants, particularly polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols or oils. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants include polyoxyethylated castor oil and hydrogenated polyoxylated castor oil. Specific examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present disclosure include PEG-35 castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and combinations thereof.

[0065] Component (E) is preferably present in an amount of 1.0 to 5.0 wt. %, more preferably 1.25 to 4.0 wt. %, and especially preferably 1.5 to 3.0 wt. %, where the wt. % values ​​are based on the total weight of composition (PC).

[0066] Ingredient (F) In this case, the terms "(F)", "ingredient (F)", and "at least one care ingredient" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one care ingredient" means exactly one care ingredient, but also a mixture of two or more different care ingredients.

[0067] Component (F) is preferably present in an amount of 0 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%, and especially preferably 1.0 to 3.0 wt.%, where the wt.% values ​​are based on the total weight of composition (PC).

[0068] In a preferred embodiment, component (F) is at least one care ingredient selected from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium compounds, fatty compounds, and silicone compounds.

[0069] In one embodiment, suitable quaternary ammonium compounds include polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-31, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-33, polyquaternium-34, polyquaternium-35, polyquaternium-36, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-38, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-68, polyquaternium-69, polyqua One or more selected from the group consisting of Quaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, and Polyquaternium-47, and cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, dipalmitoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] In one embodiment, the lipid compound is preferably selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives.

[0071] In one embodiment, the fatty alcohol preferably has 14 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and can be linear or branched, more preferably the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0072] In one embodiment, the fatty acid preferably has 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and may be linear or branched. Salts of these fatty acids are also included in the present invention. More preferably, the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and sebacic acid.

[0073] In one embodiment, the fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives are preferably selected from the group consisting of alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having an esterifiable hydroxy group, and hydroxy-substituted fatty acids. More preferably, the fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives are selected from the group consisting of methyl stearyl ether; ceteth series compounds such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol (the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present); steareth series compounds such as steareth-1 to 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol (the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present); ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol (i.e., mixtures of fatty alcohols containing primarily cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present); C1-C30 alkyl ethers of ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth compounds. alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, and glyceryl tristearate.

[0074] Suitable silicone compounds are one or more selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane and polymethylphenylsiloxane, with polydimethylsiloxane being preferred here.

[0075] Ingredients (G) In this case, the terms "(G)", "component (G)", and "at least one additional component" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one additional component" means exactly one additional component, and also means a mixture of two or more different additional components. Preferably, a mixture of two, three, or more different additional components is used as component (G).

[0076] Component (G) is preferably present in an amount of 0 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%, and especially preferably 0.2 to 10.0 wt.%, where the wt.% values ​​are based on the total weight of composition (PC).

[0077] Composition (PC) may optionally contain, as component (G), at least one cosmetically acceptable additive selected from the group consisting of perfumes / fragrances, opacifiers, preservatives, pH adjusters, physiologically compatible silicone derivative compounds, light protection agents, anti-stripping agents, hair gloss enhancers, combing agents, degreasing agents, moisturizing agents, and cooling agents. The cosmetically acceptable additives may be used in any combination as desired or required.

[0078] Suitable cosmetically acceptable additives not specifically listed below are found in the International Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (8th Edition; The Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association). Volume 2, Sections 3 (Chemical Classification) and 4 (Function) are particularly useful in identifying specific additives for achieving specific or multiple purposes. Some of these additives are described below, although the disclosure is, of course, non-exhaustive.

[0079] Suitable ranges of amounts for fragrances, opacifiers, preservatives, pH adjusters, physiologically compatible silicone derivative compounds, light protectants, anti-stripping agents, hair glossing agents, combing aids, degreasing agents, moisturizing agents, and cooling agents are indicated for the additives described below. These cosmetically acceptable additives may be present in a total amount of up to 10.0 weight percent, particularly up to 7.0 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (PC). Typically, the total amount of these cosmetically acceptable additives may be in the range of 0.010 to 10.0 weight percent, preferably 0.010 to 7.0 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (PC). For example, the total amount of these cosmetically acceptable additives may be in the range of 0.010 to 5.0 weight percent, preferably 0.010 to 3.0 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (PC).

[0080] The composition (PC) used according to the present disclosure may contain a fragrance / scent. For example, the composition (PC) may contain 0.0010 to 1.50 weight percent, particularly 0.010 to 0.50 weight percent, of the fragrance / scent, based on the weight of the composition (PC). The fragrance / scent may provide an enhanced user experience by imparting a pleasant scent to the composition (PC) and / or evoking emotions such as a relaxing or stimulating scent.

[0081] Alternatively, the composition (PC) used according to the present disclosure may be substantially free of perfumes and / or fragrances. Some consumers prefer perfume-free compositions. The perfume / fragrance may be an animal-based fragrance or a botanical fragrance. The animal-based fragrance may be selected from the group consisting of musk oil, civet, castoreum, ambergris, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] The botanical fragrance may be selected from the group consisting of nutmeg extract, cardamom extract, ginger extract, cinnamon extract, patchouli oil, geranium oil, orange oil, mandarin oil, orange flower extract, cedarwood, vetiver, lavandin, ylang extract, tuberose extract, sandalwood oil, bergamot oil, rosemary oil, spearmint oil, peppermint oil, lemon oil, lavender oil, citronella oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, sage oil, neroli oil, labdanum oil, eucalyptus oil, verbena oil, mimosa extract, daffodil extract, carrot seed extract, jasmine extract, olibanum extract, rose extract, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Fragrance: Acetophenone, Adoxal, Aldehyde C-12, Aldehyde C-14, Aldehyde C-18, Allyl Caprylate, Ambroxan, Amyl Acetate, Dimethylindan Derivatives, Alpha-Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde, Anethole, Anisaldehyde, Benzaldehyde, Benzyl Acetate, Benzyl Alcohol and Ester Derivatives, Benzyl Propionate, Benzyl Salicylate, Borneol, Butyl Acetate, Camphor, Carbitol, Cinnamaldehyde, Cinnamyl Acetate, Cinnamyl Alcohol, cis-3-Hexanol and Ester Derivatives, cis-3-Hexenyl Methyl Carbonate, Citral, Citronellol and Ester Derivatives, Cuminaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Cyclogalbanate galbanate), damascone, decalactone, decanol, estragole, dihydromyrcenol, dimethylbenzylcarbinol, 6,8-Dimethyl-2-nonanol, dimethylbenzylcarbinylbutyrate, ethyl acetate, ethyl isobutyrate, ethyl butyrate, ethyl propionate, ethyl caprylate, ethyl cinnamate, ethyl hexanoate, ethyl valerate, ethyl vanillin, eugenol, exaltolide, fenchone, fruity esters such as ethyl 2-methylbutyrate, galaxolide, geraniol and ester derivatives, helional, 2-heptonone, hexenol, α-hexyl cinnamic aldehyde, hydroxycitrolnellal, indole, isoamyl acetate, isoeugenol acetate, ionone, isoeugenol, isoamyl isovalerate, iso E Super super), limonene, linalool, lilial, linalyl acetate, lyral, majantol, mayol, melonal, menthol, p-methylacetophenone, methyl anthranilate, methyl cedrylone The fragrance may include one or more fragrances selected from the group consisting of: cedrylone, methyl dihydrojasmonate, methyl eugenol, methyl ionone, methyl-α-naphthyl ketone, methylphenylcarbinyl acetate, mugetanol, γ-nonalactone, octanal, phenylethyl acetate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylethyl alcohol, pinene, sandalwood, santalol, stemone, thymol, terpenes, triplal, triethyl citrate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexanol, γ-undecalactone, undecenal, vanillin, veloutone, verdox, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] The composition (PC) according to the present disclosure may contain a preservative or a mixture of preservatives. The composition (PC) may contain preservative(s) in an amount of up to 1.0 weight percent, for example, 0.0010 to 1.0 weight percent, particularly 0.010 to 0.90 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (PC). Cosmetically acceptable preservatives include organic acids such as parahydroxybenzoic acid; organic acid salts such as sodium benzoate; compounds such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and 1,3-bis(hydroxymethyl)-5,5-dimethylimidazolidine-2,4-dione; capryl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The composition (PC) according to the present disclosure may contain a pH adjusting agent and / or buffering agent in an amount sufficient to effectively adjust the pH of the composition. For example, the composition may contain up to 1.0 weight percent, e.g., 0.000010 to 1.0 weight percent, particularly 0.0010 to 0.50 weight percent, of the pH adjusting agent based on the weight of the composition (PC). pH adjusting agents and / or buffering agents suitable for use herein include, but are not limited to, guanidinium salts, alkali metal and ammonium hydroxides and carbonates, such as sodium hydroxide, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, and ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium chloride, and organic and inorganic acids, such as ascorbic acid, citric acid, acetic acid, or tartaric acid, phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Use of Composition (PC) / Method of Colouring or Bleaching The compositions of the present invention can be advantageously used as pretreatment compositions for coloring or bleaching processes for keratin fibers, preferably human hair.

[0087] The compositions (PC) of the invention can furthermore be used to protect keratin fibres, preferably human hair, during colouring or bleaching processes.

[0088] After application to the keratin fibers, preferably human hair, the composition (PC) is preferably left on the keratin fibers, preferably human hair, for a period of time ranging from 1 to 45 minutes, preferably from 2 to 20 minutes, particularly preferably from 4 to 12 minutes.

[0089] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for producing a semiconductor device comprising: i) applying a composition (PC) as defined herein to keratinous fibers, ii) applying a coloring or bleaching composition to the keratin fibers A method for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, comprising:

[0090] In a preferred embodiment, the colouring or bleaching composition used in step ii) comprises at least one oxidizing agent (HD) selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxide salts, peracids, percarbonates, persulfates, and precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] In another preferred embodiment, during step ii) the components (HA) at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor; (HB) at least one oxidative primary dye precursor; (HC) at least one alkalizing agent, and (HD) at least one oxidizing agent An oxidative hair coloring composition (HC) comprising:

[0092] The oxidizing agent (HD) is preferably as described above.

[0093] Particularly preferably, the composition (PC) applied in step i) is left on the keratin fibers for a time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes.

[0094] The composition (PC) is preferably used as a leave-on composition. The term "leave-on" preferably means that the composition (PC) is not washed off between steps i) and ii). In another preferred embodiment, the method for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers does not include a rinsing step between steps i) and ii).

[0095] Another object of the present invention is a kit comprising a composition (PC) as defined herein, an oxidative hair colouring composition (HC) as defined herein and, optionally, a conditioner.

[0096] In a preferred embodiment, the kit comprises an oxidative hair coloring composition (HC) in the form of a hair dye composition comprising components (HA), (HB), and (HC), and an oxidizing composition comprising component (HD), wherein the hair dye composition and the oxidizing composition are mixed together to obtain the hair coloring composition (HC).

[0097] Another object of the present invention is to provide - a first compartment containing a composition (PC) as defined herein; - a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising as a component at least one oxidizing agent (HD), - optionally a third compartment containing a hair dye composition comprising as ingredients at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor (HA), at least one oxidative primary dye precursor (HB), and at least one alkalizing agent; and - optionally a fourth compartment containing a conditioner A multi-compartment container comprising:

[0098] The at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor (HA), the at least one oxidative primary dye precursor (HB), the at least one alkalizing agent (HC), and the at least one oxidizing agent (HD) may be any of the ingredients commonly known in the field of hair coloring and hair bleaching.

[0099] Suitable oxidizing agents (HD) are described above, of which hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred.

[0100] In one embodiment, the at least one alkalizing agent (HC) is at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia and alkanolamines. In one embodiment, the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine, propanolamine, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-1-propanol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 1-amino-2-propanol, 3-amino-1-propanol, 2-aminopropane-1,3-diol, 1-amino-2-butanol, 4-amino-2-butanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, 3-amino-1-butanol. , 3-amino-2-butanol, 2-amino-1-butanol, dimethylglucamine, 2,5-diaminocyclohexane-1,4-diol, 2-aminocyclohexane-1-ol, 2,4,6-triaminocyclohexane-1,3,5-triol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-1-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol, and 2-dimethylamino-2-methyl-1-propanol. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alkalizing agent (A) is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine, propanolamine, isopropanolamine, and 2-amino-1-propanol; more preferably, the at least one alkalizing agent (A) is monoethanolamine and / or ammonia.

[0101] In one embodiment of the at least one oxidized primary dye precursor (HB), the at least one oxidized primary dye precursor is selected from the group consisting of toluene-2,5-diamine, p-phenylenediamine, n-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulfate, hydroxypropyl bis(n-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine), 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, p-methylaminophenol, 4-amino-m-cresol, 6-amino-m-cresol, bis(5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl)methane, tetraaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triamino-4-pyrimidinol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole. and at least one oxidation primary dye precursor selected from the group consisting of 2,3-diaminodihydroxypyrazolopyrazolone dimethosulfonate, 4,5-diamino-1-hexylpyrazole, hydroxypropyl-p-phenylenediamine, dimethylpiperazinium aminopyrazolopyridine chloride hydrochloride, methylimidazolium propyl p-phenylenediamine, hydroxyethoxyaminopyrazolopyridine, and salts thereof.

[0102] In one embodiment, the at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor (HA) is selected from the group consisting of resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, m-aminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 3-amino-2,6-dimethylphenol, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol, 5-amino-4-chloro-o-cresol, hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 6-amino-m-cresol, 6-amino-o-cresol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 1,3-bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 2,6-dihydroxyethylaminotoluene, m-phenylenediamine, 2,4-diamino-1,5- and at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor selected from the group consisting of di(2-hydroxyethoxybenzene), 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-naphthalenediol, 2,7-naphthalenediol, 1-acetoxy-2-methylnaphthalene, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-pyridinediamine, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-(methylamino)-pyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, dihydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, dihydroxyindoline, phenylmethylpyrazolone, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 5-((2-hydroxyethyl)amino)-1,3-benzodioxole, isatin, hydroquinone, 4-formyl-1-methylquinolinium-p-toluenesulfonate, resveratrol, and salts thereof.

[0103] These and other primary dye precursors (F) and coupler dye precursors (G) can be used in different combinations to achieve the desired nuances, as is known in the art.

[0104] Implementation Below, a list of embodiments is provided to further illustrate the present disclosure, without intending to limit the disclosure to the specific embodiments listed below.

[0105] 1. As an ingredient, (A) malic acid and / or malate(s); (B) at least one chelating agent comprising diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) and / or diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) salt(s); (C) at least one thickening agent; (D) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; (E) at least one surfactant component, and (F) optionally at least one care ingredient A composition (PC) comprising: The composition (PC) has a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 6.5.

[0106] 2. Composition (PC) according to embodiment 1, Component (A) in an amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight; Component (B) in an amount of 0.1 to 1.5% by weight; Component (C) in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight; Component (D) in an amount of 71.75 to 98.7% by weight; Component (E) in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight, Component (F) in an amount of 0 to 5% by weight Including, The weight percent values ​​are based on the total weight of the composition (PC).

[0107] 3. Composition (PC) according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein composition (PC) has a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 6.5.

[0108] 4. Composition (PC) according to any one of embodiments 1 to 3, wherein composition (PC) has a viscosity in the range of 1000 to 2000 mPas, measured using a Brookfield RS viscometer, cone C75, a shear rate of 64.5 / s, at 25°C, and a rotation time of 30 seconds.

[0109] 5. Composition (PC) according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4, wherein component (C) is at least one water-soluble polymer, preferably selected from the group consisting of cellulose-based polymers, polysaccharide-based polymers, and acrylate-based polymers.

[0110] 6. Use of a composition (PC) according to any of embodiments 1 to 5 as a pretreatment composition for a colouring or bleaching method.

[0111] 7. Use of a composition (PC) according to any of embodiments 1 to 5 for protecting keratin fibres during colouring or bleaching processes.

[0112] 8. i) applying a composition (PC) according to any one of embodiments 1 to 5 to keratinous fibers, ii) applying a coloring or bleaching composition to the keratin fibers 1. A method for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, comprising:

[0113] 9. The method of embodiment 8, wherein the coloring or bleaching composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent (HD) selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxide salts, peracids, percarbonates, persulfates, and precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] 10. The composition applied during step ii) comprises as components: (HA) at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor; (HB) at least one oxidative primary dye precursor; (HC) at least one alkalizing agent, and (HD) at least one oxidizing agent 10. The method of claim 8 or 9, wherein the oxidative hair coloring composition (HC) comprises:

[0115] 11. The method according to any of embodiments 8 to 10, wherein in step i), the composition (PC) is left on the keratin fibers for a time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes.

[0116] 12. The method of any one of embodiments 8 to 11, wherein the method does not include a rinsing step between steps i) and ii).

[0117] 13. A kit comprising a composition (PC) according to any one of embodiments 1 to 5, an oxidative hair coloring composition (HC) according to an embodiment, and optionally a conditioner.

[0118] 14. The kit of embodiment 13, wherein the kit comprises an oxidative hair coloring composition (HC) in the form of a hair dye composition comprising components (HA), (HB), and (HC), and an oxidizing composition comprising component (HD), wherein the hair dye composition and the oxidizing composition can be mixed together to obtain the hair coloring composition (HC).

[0119] 15. - a first compartment containing a composition (PC) according to any of embodiments 1 to 5; - a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising as a component at least one oxidizing agent (HD), - optionally a third compartment containing a hair dye composition comprising as ingredients at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor (HA), at least one oxidative primary dye precursor (HB), and at least one alkalizing agent (HC), and - optionally a fourth compartment containing a conditioner A multi-compartment container comprising: [Example]

[0120] Example The following examples illustrate formulations and performance results according to the claimed invention. These examples are not intended to be inclusive of all aspects of the subject matter disclosed herein, but rather to illustrate representative compositions and results. These examples are not intended to exclude equivalents and variations of the claimed invention that would be apparent to one skilled in the art.

[0121] DSC measurements were performed on hair. DSC measurements help determine the denaturation temperature of the hair α-helix. A higher denaturation temperature is associated with a higher degree of cross-linking of the matrix (e.g., a higher cystine content). A more cross-linked matrix has a higher viscosity, which kinetically inhibits the denaturation of the hair α-helix.

[0122] Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) is a thermal analysis technique in which the difference in the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of a sample is measured as a function of temperature. The technique of DSC measurements for human studies is described, for example, in "Investigations of cosmetically treated human hair by differential scanning calorimetry in water," F. Wortmann, C. Springob, G. Sendelbach, Journal of Cosmetic Science, 53, 219-228, July / August 2002.

[0123] The denaturation temperature of the hair alpha helix is ​​further illustrated by accompanying Figure 1.

[0124] The diagram in Figure 1 shows temperature (°C) on the x-axis and heat flow (W / g) on ​​the y-axis. The denaturation temperature is the peak temperature T d is shown by

[0125] Damage to hair was evaluated by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), a method well-established for studying the effects of damage on the keratin surface. (Strassburger, J., J. Soc. Cosmet Chem., 36, 61-74 (1985); Joy, M. & Lewis, DM, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 13, 249-261 (1991); Signori, V. and Lewis, DM, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 19, 1-13 (1997)). In particular, these authors demonstrated that this method was suitable for quantifying the amount of cysteic acid. In general, cystine oxidation is considered a suitable marker for monitoring the overall oxidation of the keratin portion of the fiber. Finally, the measurement of cysteic acid units by FTIR became commonly used.

[0126] Signori and Lewis (DM, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 19, 1-13 (1997)) have shown that FT-IR using a diamond attenuated total internal reflectance (ATR) cell was a highly sensitive and reproducible method for measuring the cysteic acid content of single fibers and hair bundles. Therefore, the method used to measure the cysteic acid content of multiple fiber bundles and whole hair switches was based on the FTIR diamond cell ATR method used by Signori and Lewis (1997). A detailed description of the method for testing different damage inhibitors follows:

[0127] Cysteic acid concentrations in mammalian or synthetic hair were measured using a Perkin Elmer Spectrum® 1 Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectrometer equipped with a diamond attenuated total internal reflectance (ATR) cell. Hair switches of various sizes and colors were used in this method. The switches were braided (approximately one braid per cm) to minimize variations in contact area between readings. The above oxidative hair treatment protocol was repeated for five cycles to mimic hair behavior after repeated bleaching cycles. After this treatment, four readings per switch were taken (the lower one-third and two-thirds on each side of the switch) and averaged. Background was collected every four readings, and an ATR cell pressure of 1 N / m was used. Between each reading, the cell was rinsed with ethanol, and a contamination check was performed using the instrument's monitor ratio mode. A normalized double derivative analysis routine was used, as defined by Signori and Lewis in 1997. The original spectrum was first converted to absorbance, then measured at 1450 cm. -1 The absorbance was normalized to a band (characteristic and invariant protein CH2 stretch). This normalized absorbance was then derived twice using 13-point averaging. -1 is the normalized second derivative of the absorbance at 1450 cm -1 The value of cysteic acid was obtained as the relative concentration of cysteic acid. 4 and recalculated to the appropriate units.

[0128] The following traces were used: To test the pre-treatment compositions, a level 7 hair tress that had been pre-bleached three times (hereinafter referred to as tress_1) and a level 7 hair tress that had been pre-bleached five times (hereinafter referred to as tress_2) were used.

[0129] The following pretreatment compositions were used: TIFF2025157164000001.tif84170 * Not according to the present invention

[0130] The pH value of the composition according to the invention (PC_1) is 3.97, and the pH value of the composition PC_2 * The pH value was 3.82.

[0131] The storage stability of the composition (PC_1) according to the present invention was evaluated. The initial pH value was measured immediately after the preparation of composition PC_1. 150 ml of the sample was then placed in a sealed wide-mouth bottle and stored in a warming cabinet at 40°C. The pH value was measured after one month and three months. The pH value was measured using a Mettler pH meter. The results are shown in the table below. TIFF2025157164000002.tif17170

[0132] Malic acid (ingredient (A)) was obtained in the form of the racemic pre-acid by Active Concepts Distribution LLC.

[0133] Citric acid was obtained in the free acid form by Cargill.

[0134] DTPMP (component (B)) was obtained by Zschimmer & Scharz in the form of its heptasodium salt.

[0135] EDDS was obtained from Innospec in the form of the trisodium salt.

[0136] The denaturation temperatures (Td) of TRES_1 and TRES_2 were measured by DSC. A pretreatment composition (PC_1) was applied to TRES_1 and TRES_2 for 15 minutes, and the denaturation temperatures (Td) of the pretreated TRES (TRES_1_PC_1 and TRES_2_PC_1) were measured. d The denaturation temperature (T d ) are shown in Table 2. TIFF2025157164000003.tif17170

[0137] The results in Table 2 show the denaturation temperature (T d ) increased by 3.75°C, and the denaturation temperature (Td ) will rise by 4.15°C.

[0138] Further examples were conducted in which Tress_1 was treated with an oxidative hair coloring composition with or without the application of a pre-treatment composition.

[0139] For coloring the hair, Wella's oxidative hair coloring compositions were used, which were obtained by mixing the test hair dye compositions with the oxidizing compositions shown in the following table. TIFF2025157164000004.tif76170

[0140] TIFF2025157164000005.tif61170

[0141] The formulations were prepared according to the following method.

[0142] The cream premix formulation was part hair dye composition and part oxidizing composition. The cream premix was created by mixing together DI water (68.5%), cetearyl alcohol (25%), and steareth-20 (6.5%). The mixture was heated to 80-85°C, and the wax and surfactants were melted with stirring. The composition was homogenized for 5 minutes, after which cooling was initiated to allow the product to cool to room temperature.

[0143] Hair dye composition: The remaining ingredients of the hair dye composition were mixed with DI water at room temperature. Once all materials were dissolved, 40% by weight of the crème premix was added and stirred until a uniform viscosity was achieved. The product was stored in an aluminum tube until use.

[0144] Oxidizing composition: The remaining ingredients were mixed with DI water at room temperature. Once all materials were dissolved, 20% by weight of the creme premix was added and stirred until a uniform viscosity was achieved. The product was stored in a plastic bottle until use. One part of the hair dye composition was mixed with 1.5 parts of an oxidizing composition (Welloxon Perfect 9%) to obtain an oxidizing hair coloring composition.

[0145] An oxidative hair coloring composition was applied to Tress_1. Three examples were performed, with the first example (Tress_1_col * In Example 1, Tress_1 was stained without applying a pretreatment composition. * In the example, before coloring, the trace 1 was treated with a non-inventive pretreatment composition PC2 * In a third example (Tress_1_PC1_col), prior to coloring, Tress_1 was treated with a pre-treatment composition PC1 of the present invention for 10 minutes. The oxidative hair coloring composition in each example was applied for 35 minutes.

[0146] Denaturation temperature (T d ) are shown in Table 3. TIFF2025157164000006.tif17170 * Not according to the present invention

[0147] The tresses pretreated with the pretreatment composition of the present invention (Tress_1_PC1_col) were compared with the tresses pretreated with the non-invention pretreatment composition (Tress_1_PC2 * _col) and non-preprocessed trace (Trace_1_col * ) higher than the denaturation temperature (T d ) with temperature increases of 0.16°C and 1.1°C, respectively.

[0148] The injury results are shown in Table 4. TIFF2025157164000007.tif221701)Δ refers to the difference in measurements between traces processed with PC1 and traces not processed with PC1.

[0149] Tress pretreated with the pretreatment composition of the present invention (Tress_1_PC1_col) shows less damage compared to Tress_1_col.

Claims

1. As ingredients, (A) malic acid and / or malate salts, (B) at least one chelating agent comprising diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) and / or a diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) salt; (C) at least one thickening agent; (D) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; (E) at least one surfactant component, and (F) optionally at least one care ingredient A composition (PC) comprising: The composition (PC) has a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 6.

5.

2. 2. The composition (PC) according to claim 1, Component (A) in an amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight, Component (B) in an amount of 0.1 to 1.5 wt. %; Component (C) in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt. %; Component (D) in an amount of 71.75 to 98.7 wt. %; Component (E) in an amount of 1 to 5 wt. %, Component (F) in an amount of 0 to 5% by weight Including, The weight percent values ​​are based on the total weight of the composition (PC).

3. 3. Composition (PC) according to claim 1 or 2, wherein composition (PC) has a viscosity in the range of 1000 to 2000 mPas, measured with a Brookfield RS viscometer, cone C75, shear rate 64.5 / s, 25°C, rotation time 30 seconds.

4. 4. The composition (PC) according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein component (C) is preferably at least one water-soluble polymer selected from the group consisting of cellulose-based polymers, polysaccharide-based polymers, and acrylate-based polymers.

5. 5. Use of a composition (PC) according to any one of claims 1 to 4 as a pretreatment composition for a colouring or bleaching process.

6. 5. Use of a composition (PC) according to any one of claims 1 to 4 for protecting keratin fibres during colouring or bleaching processes.

7. i) applying a composition (PC) according to any one of claims 1 to 4 to keratin fibres, ii) applying a coloring or bleaching composition to the keratin fibers 1. A method for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, comprising:

8. 8. The method of claim 7, wherein the coloring or bleaching composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent (HD) selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxide salts, peracids, percarbonates, persulfates, and precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition applied during step ii) comprises as components: (HA) at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor; (HB) at least one oxidation primary dye precursor; (HC) at least one alkalizing agent, and (HD) at least one oxidizing agent 9. The method of claim 7 or 8, wherein the oxidative hair coloring composition (HC) comprises:

10. 10. The method according to any one of claims 7 to 9, wherein in step i) the composition (PC) is left on the keratin fibres for a time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes.

11. 11. The method of any one of claims 7 to 10, which does not include a rinsing step between steps i) and ii).

12. 10. A kit comprising a composition (PC) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, an oxidative hair colouring composition (HC) according to claim 9 and optionally a conditioner.

13. 13. The kit of claim 12, wherein the kit comprises an oxidative hair coloring composition (HC) in the form of a hair dye composition comprising components (HA), (HB), and (HC), and an oxidizing composition comprising component (HD), wherein the hair dye composition and the oxidizing composition can be mixed together to obtain the hair coloring composition (HC).

14. - a first compartment comprising a composition (PC) according to any one of claims 1 to 4; a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising as a component at least one oxidizing agent (HD); - optionally a third compartment containing a hair dye composition comprising as ingredients at least one oxidative coupler dye precursor (HA), at least one oxidative primary dye precursor (HB), and at least one alkalizing agent (HC); and - optionally a fourth compartment containing a conditioner A multi-compartment container comprising:

Images