Woven fabric and japanese dress article

Abstract

To provide a woven fabric which prevents clothing from becoming loose when worn and has excellent wearing comfort without impairing aesthetic property.SOLUTION: A woven fabric has an elongation rate of 6% to 20% in any one direction based on JIS L1096:2010 8.14.1 Method A (strip method) and an elongation recovery rate of 70% to 100% based on JIS L1096:2010 8.15.1 Method A (strip method), using a flat weave textile made of 100% wool with a basis weight of 100 g / m2 and a thickness of 0.3 mm, an average friction coefficient when rubbed in a direction showing the elongation rate and the elongation recovery rate is 0.40 to 1.00, and a multifilament includes a fiber A having 3 to 5 grooves in a fiber axial direction and a fiber B having 6 to 12 grooves.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to textiles and Japanese clothing. [Background technology]

[0002] When wearing clothing, it can gradually become loose after initial donning. A typical example is the women's kimono. To put on a kimono, the long kimono is wrapped around the body, the excess fabric tucked up at the waist and secured with strings to create a section called the ohashi-ori, and then an obi is tied over it to complete the kimono. Most kimono fabrics are made of low-stretch materials, which facilitate fastening the obi and enhance the wearer's standing posture, improving aesthetics. However, because the fabric is low-stretch, the wearer often feels constricted, and when standing or sitting, the knees and buttocks are pulled in, causing the ohashi-ori to slip, resulting in a loose kimono. Elastic Japanese clothing materials, such as crepe and chirimen, can stretch depending on the texture of the material, but these do not yet provide sufficient relief from the feeling of tightness when sitting or exercising.

[0003] As a conventional technique aimed at preventing the garment from becoming loose and improving comfort, Japanese clothing using a woven fabric with a high elongation percentage is provided, as disclosed in Patent Document 1. Also, as a conventional technique aimed at preventing the garment from becoming loose, Japanese clothing made of a tricot fabric knitted using knitting yarn containing no elastic fiber is provided, as disclosed in Patent Document 2. Meanwhile, as a conventional technique aimed at comfort, a yukata is provided, as disclosed in Patent Document 3, which is characterized by being made of a woven fabric containing polyester filament yarn with a cross-sectional shape having a recess. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0004] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2009-185403 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2015-124449 [Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 9-87913 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0005] Japanese clothing made with highly stretchable fabrics such as those disclosed in Patent Document 1 has low clothing pressure and is easy to move in, reducing the feeling of tightness around the waist when sitting on the floor or in a chair. On the other hand, high stretchability alone can cause the hem to slip off, so there is a need to further prevent the clothing from becoming untidy.

[0006] Japanese clothing made of tricot fabric knitted using knitting yarns that do not contain elastic fibers, as disclosed in Patent Document 2, has high elongation due to the tricot, and the tricot knitting creates unevenness in the fabric, which creates high friction, making it effective in preventing the garment from becoming loose. However, the knitted fabric is heavy, which reduces comfort when worn. In addition, the fabric makes the body lines more noticeable, which reduces aesthetic appeal.

[0007] Furthermore, a yukata, which is characterized by being made of a fabric containing polyester filament yarns having a cross-sectional shape with a recess as disclosed in Patent Document 3, has excellent wearing comfort, such as quick-drying properties and a dry, firm feel due to the cross-sectional shape of the fibers, but it is not able to prevent the garment from becoming loose.

[0008] The present invention has been made in consideration of the above circumstances, and its object is to provide a woven fabric that prevents clothing from becoming loose when worn and has excellent wearing comfort without compromising aesthetics. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] In order to solve the above problems, the woven fabric of the present invention has the following configuration. (1) In any one direction, the elongation rate based on JIS L1096:2010 8.14.1 Method A (strip method) is 6% to 20%, and the elongation recovery rate based on JIS L1096:2010 8.15.1 Method A (strip method) is 70% to 100%; Weight is 100g / m 2 When a plain weave fabric made of 100% wool and having a thickness of 0.3 mm is rubbed in the direction showing the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate, the average coefficient of friction is 0.40 to 1.00, A woven fabric comprising multifilaments, the multifilaments comprising fibers A having 3 to 5 grooves in the fiber axis direction and fibers B having 6 to 12 grooves. (2) The woven fabric according to (1), wherein the grooves have a width of 0.1 to 2.0 μm and a depth of 0.1 to 4.0 μm. (3) A woven fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein in the cross section of the multifilament, the ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​the fiber A to the total cross-sectional area of ​​the fibers constituting the multifilament is 25 to 75%, and the ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​the fiber B is 25 to 75%. (4) A woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), having an elongation rate of 1% to 5% based on JIS L1096:2010 8.14.1 Method A (strip method) in a direction perpendicular to the direction showing the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate. (5) A Japanese clothing item comprising the fabric according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the direction showing the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate is the vertical direction of the body. [Effects of the Invention]

[0010] According to the present invention, a woven fabric can be obtained which prevents clothes from becoming loose when worn and has excellent wearing comfort without impairing aesthetics. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0011] [Figure 1] FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional schematic diagram of fiber A included in the multifilament. [Figure 2] FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional schematic diagram of fiber B included in the multifilament. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] The woven fabric of the present invention satisfies the following requirements. In any one direction, the elongation rate based on JIS L1096:2010 8.14.1 Method A (strip method) is 6% to 20%, and the elongation recovery rate based on JIS L1096:2010 8.15.1 Method A (strip method) is 70% to 100%; Weight is 100g / m 2 When a plain weave fabric made of 100% wool and having a thickness of 0.3 mm is rubbed in the direction showing the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate, the average coefficient of friction is 0.40 to 1.00, A woven fabric comprising multifilaments, the multifilaments comprising fibers A having 3 to 5 grooves in the fiber axis direction and fibers B having 6 to 12 grooves.

[0013] The present invention will be described in detail below, but the present invention is not limited to the scope of the following description as long as it does not deviate from the gist of the invention.

[0014] [Multifilament] The woven fabric of the present invention comprises multifilaments.

[0015] The component forming the fibers contained in the multifilament (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as "component A") is preferably a thermoplastic polymer.

[0016] Examples of thermoplastic polymers include polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polylactic acid; polyamides such as polycaproamide (polyamide 6), polydodecanoamide (polyamide 12), polyhexamethylene adipamide (polyamide 66), polyhexamethylene sebacamide (polyamide 610), and polyhexamethylene dodecanoamide (polyamide 612); polyolefins such as polypropylene, polyethylene, and polyurethane; and combinations thereof. Among these, polyesters and polyamides, which are commonly used as clothing fibers, are preferred. In this case, the polymer's intrinsic viscosity should be in the range of 0.5 to 0.7.

[0017] The above-mentioned polyester-based thermoplastic polymers, such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate, may contain a small amount (usually less than 30 mol%) of copolymerization component, if necessary. When the copolymerization component of the polyester-based thermoplastic polymer is 8 mol% or less, strength is maintained even after alkali reduction, making it easier to achieve softness. Furthermore, dimensional stability is improved by maintaining molecular orientation in the textured yarn even after dyeing. Furthermore, the copolymerization component contained in the polyester-based thermoplastic polymer is preferably 5 mol% or less, and more preferably polyethylene terephthalate, which does not contain any copolymerization component, is used. This makes it easier for crimp to occur in the woven fabric, making it easier to achieve stretchability and resilience. Well-known components can be used as the copolymerization component.

[0018] The polymers may be plant-derived biopolymers or recycled polymers recycled by any of chemical recycling, material recycling, and thermal recycling. The polymers may also contain additives, such as matting agents, pigments, dyes, antifouling agents, fluorescent brighteners, flame retardants, stabilizers, weathering agents, UV absorbers, lubricants, or moisture absorbents, as long as the additives do not impair the objectives of the present invention. If the functional agent is incompatible with the polymer, it may be added by, for example, preparing a masterbatch and then melt-blending and spinning the resulting mixture.

[0019] The multifilament includes fiber A having 3 to 5 grooves in the fiber axis direction as shown in Figure 1 and fiber B having 6 to 12 grooves as shown in Figure 2. The groove in the present invention refers to, for example, when a straight line S1 tangent to the cross-sectional contour of the same single fiber cross section is drawn, there are multiple contact points X1 and X2, and the number of grooves is the number of the above-mentioned contact points. By combining two types of fiber A and fiber B having different numbers of grooves and exerting the effects of each fiber, the desired effect can be obtained as a woven fabric.

[0020] If only fibers with fewer than three grooves are used, the grooves have fewer opportunities to come into contact with other parts, which reduces the coefficient of friction when rubbing against other fabrics when made into a woven fabric or clothing, making it more likely to become loose. If only fibers with more than 12 grooves are used, fibrillation such as single fiber cracking is more likely to occur, reducing abrasion resistance, and the surface of the woven fabric becomes worn, making it easier for fabrics to slip against each other, resulting in loosening. Wearing comfort is also reduced. If only fiber B with 6 to 12 grooves is used, fibrillation such as single fiber cracking is more likely to occur, reducing abrasion resistance, making it easier for fabrics to slip against each other, resulting in loosening. Wearing comfort is also reduced. If only fiber A with 3 to 5 grooves is used, the grooves have fewer opportunities to come into contact with other parts, which reduces the coefficient of friction when rubbing against other fabrics when made into a woven fabric or clothing, making it more likely to become loose.

[0021] The number of grooves can be a value measured by the method described in the Examples. One example of a method for adjusting the number of grooves to the above range is a method of forming grooves by a dissolution process, as described below. In this case, in order to prevent the grooves from being crushed during the false twisting process or twisting process, it is more preferable to dissolve the components that form the grooves after the false twisting process or twisting process, and it is also preferable to dissolve the components that form the grooves during the dyeing process.

[0022] The groove width is preferably 0.1 to 4.0 μm, and the groove depth is preferably 0.1 to 4.0 μm. The groove width, for example, refers to the width between the tangent points (between tangent points X1 and X2) in FIG. 1. The groove depth refers to the maximum depth of the groove, and for example, in FIG. 1, refers to the length of a line S2 drawn from the midpoint between tangent points X1 and X2 on line S1 in the cross section of a single fiber to the deepest point T of the groove.

[0023] By making the groove width 0.1 μm or more, the resistance force when the groove comes into contact with other parts increases, and the coefficient of friction when the fabric or clothing is rubbed against other fabrics increases, thereby further preventing the fabric from becoming loose. It is more preferable to make the groove width 1.0 μm or more. On the other hand, by making the groove width 4.0 μm or less, the shape of the groove can be made sharper, and the coefficient of friction when the fabric or clothing is rubbed against other fabrics increases, thereby further preventing the fabric from becoming loose. It is more preferable to make the groove width 3.0 μm or less.

[0024] By making the groove depth 0.1 μm or more, the resistance force when the groove comes into contact with other parts increases, and when made into a woven fabric or Japanese clothing, the friction coefficient increases when it rubs against other fabrics, thereby further preventing the fabric from becoming loose. It is more preferable that the groove depth be 1.0 μm or more. By making the groove depth 4.0 μm or less, it is possible to prevent single fibers from cracking and suppress fibrillation, thereby improving abrasion resistance. It is more preferable that the groove depth be 3.0 μm or less.

[0025] The groove width and groove depth can be values ​​measured by the method described in the Examples. As an example of a method for adjusting the groove width and groove depth to the above ranges, the components forming the grooves can be adjusted to predetermined dimensions in the elution step, as described below.

[0026] The cross-sectional shape of the fibers contained in the multifilament is not particularly limited, and cross-sectional shapes such as round, oval, triangular, tetralobal, pentalobular, and hexalobular can be adopted, but a triangular shape is preferred because it can impart a silk-like luster, and a hexalobular shape is preferred because it improves the feeling of squeaking and further prevents the fabric from becoming loose. Note that the above cross-sectional shapes represent shapes assuming no grooves.

[0027] As the fibers contained in the multifilament, natural fibers such as cotton and silk wool, regenerated fibers such as rayon, and synthetic fibers such as acrylic fibers and polyester fibers can be used.

[0028] In the cross section of the multifilament, it is preferable that the ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​fiber A to the total cross-sectional area of ​​the fibers constituting the multifilament is 25 to 75%, and the ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​fiber B is 25 to 75%. More preferably, the ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​fiber A is 30 to 70%, and the ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​fiber B is 30 to 70%. Here, the ratio of the cross-sectional areas of fibers A and B can be determined as follows. That is, filaments are extracted from a woven fabric, and the cross-section is observed under a microscope to identify fibers A and B contained in the multifilament, and then the number of these fibers and the cross-sectional area of ​​each single fiber are measured. Thereafter, the ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​fiber A and fiber B in the extracted filament is determined. This operation is performed for 10 warp yarns and 10 weft yarns, and the average value of a total of 20 fibers is used as the ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​fiber A and fiber B.

[0029] By making the cross-sectional area ratio of fiber A 25% or more, the resistance force when the grooves come into contact with other parts increases, and when made into textiles or kimono clothing, the coefficient of friction when rubbing against other fabrics increases, thereby further preventing the garment from becoming distorted.On the other hand, by making the cross-sectional area ratio of fiber A 75% or less, the proportion of fiber B can be increased, and the coefficient of friction when rubbing against other fabrics increases, further preventing the garment from becoming distorted.

[0030] By making the cross-sectional area ratio of fiber B 25% or more, the resistance force when the grooves come into contact with other parts increases, and the coefficient of friction when rubbing against other fabrics increases, thereby further preventing the garment from becoming loose. On the other hand, by making the cross-sectional area ratio of fiber B 75% or less, it is possible to prevent single fibers from splitting and suppress fibrillation, thereby improving abrasion resistance.

[0031] In addition, the total number of fibers constituting the multifilament (N T ) the number of fibers A (N A The proportion of the number of fibers B (N ) is preferably 25 to 75%, more preferably 30 to 70%. B The ratio of the number of fibers B to the number of fibers A (N A / N B ) is preferably from 0.25 to 4.00, more preferably from 0.40 to 2.50.

[0032] [fabric] The woven fabric of the present invention has an elongation percentage of 6% to 20% in any one direction as measured by JIS L1096:2010 8.14.1 Method A (strip method) and an elongation recovery percentage of 70% to 100% as measured by JIS L1096:2010 8.15.1 Method A (strip method). Preferably, the elongation percentage is 8% to 18% and the elongation recovery percentage is 75% to 100%. The direction in which the above elongation percentage and elongation recovery percentage are exhibited may be the warp direction or the weft direction of the woven fabric.

[0033] If the elongation rate is less than 6%, the garment made from the woven fabric of the present invention will feel tight and uncomfortable when sitting, standing, etc., and will be prone to slipping during movement, causing the garment to become loose.On the other hand, if the elongation rate is greater than 20%, the woven fabric will become heavy and will be less comfortable to wear.

[0034] If the stretch recovery rate is less than 70%, the fabric will sag and become loose, and the aesthetics will also be compromised. If the stretch recovery rate is greater than 100%, excessive pressure will be applied, reducing comfort.

[0035] Examples of methods for adjusting the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate within the above ranges include blending the fibers used in the woven fabric of the present invention with elastic fibers (such as polyurethane fibers) or bimetal yarns, or false twisting the fibers.

[0036] The woven fabric of the present invention preferably has an elongation of 1% to 5% in the direction perpendicular to the direction showing the elongation and elongation recovery, as measured by JIS L1096:2010 8.14.1 Method A (strip method). It is more preferably 2 to 4%. Having a vertical elongation of 1% or more reduces the feeling of tightness when sitting, standing, or bowing while wearing a Japanese garment made from the woven fabric of the present invention, thereby further improving wearing comfort. On the other hand, having a vertical elongation of 5% or less prevents the fabric from increasing in mass, resulting in a woven fabric with excellent wearing comfort. One method for achieving a vertical elongation within the above range is to apply tension to the woven fabric in the direction in which the elongation is desired to be reduced during heat setting in the dyeing process.

[0037] The woven fabric of the present invention has a basis weight of 100 g / m 2When a 100% wool plain weave fabric having a thickness of 0.3 mm is rubbed against another fabric in the direction indicating the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate, the average coefficient of friction is 0.40 to 1.00, preferably 0.45 to 0.90. If the average coefficient of friction is less than 0.40, the fabric will slip when rubbed against other fabrics, resulting in looseness. On the other hand, if the average coefficient of friction is greater than 1.00, excessive friction with other fabrics will occur, restricting movement and reducing comfort. The 100% wool plain weave fabric can be used for the cords commonly used in kimonos. The basis weight can be measured according to JIS L1096 (2010) 8.3.2 Method A (JIS method), and the thickness can be measured according to JIS L1096 (2010) 8.4 Method A (JIS method). One method for achieving the average coefficient of friction within the above range is to produce a fabric using fiber A and fiber B. The average coefficient of friction can be measured using a KES-SE-STP friction tester.

[0038] The weave may be selected from plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, or variations thereof depending on the texture and design. Furthermore, multiple weaves such as double weaves and special weaves such as gauze may also be used.

[0039] The woven fabric of the present invention contains the above-mentioned multifilaments in the warp and / or weft, and may contain other fibers as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired.

[0040] [clothing] The woven fabric of the present invention is preferably used as at least a part of a garment. This allows for the suppression of loosening, a characteristic of the woven fabric of the present invention, resulting in a garment with excellent wear comfort. Examples of garments using the woven fabric of the present invention include casual materials such as down jackets, padding, coats, jackets, pants, skirts, shirts, and blouses; Japanese clothing such as yukata and priest's robes; formal materials such as suits; sportswear such as sports shirts, jerseys, and outdoor wear; uniform materials for workwear, hospital wear, and nursing wear; student clothing materials; and innerwear such as leggings and tights. It is particularly preferred for the woven fabric to be used in Japanese clothing that is prone to loosening. Japanese clothing here refers to yukata, single-layer kimonos, lined kimonos, and even undergarments and priest's robes worn under kimonos. Furthermore, the effects of the woven fabric of the present invention can be more effectively achieved by having the direction of the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate be vertical to the body.

[0041] A lining may be sewn to the inside of the body of the Japanese clothing of the present invention. The material of the lining to be sewn is not particularly limited, but it is preferable that the lining has the same or nearly the same elongation rate and elongation recovery rate as the outer fabric of the body, in order to ensure dimensional stability, good compatibility with the outer fabric of the body, and a comfortable feeling when moving around while wearing the Japanese clothing.

[0042] [Manufacturing methods for fibers, fabrics, and Japanese clothing] Next, an example of a preferred method for producing the woven fabric of the present invention will be described.

[0043] [Spinning process] The fibers used for the multifilament can be obtained by a known melt spinning method using the above-mentioned Component A. For example, in a melt spinning method for a thermoplastic polymer, the thermoplastic polymer is melted, metered and transported using a gear pump, and extruded from a spinneret to form a thread (multifilament). At this time, in order to form the desired grooves in the subsequent elution step, it is preferable to include a component (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "Component B") that forms the grooves in addition to Component A. Component B is preferably selected from, for example, polyesters and their copolymers, which are more easily soluble than Component A. In particular, polyesters in which 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is copolymerized in a range of 5 mol % to 15 mol % of the total dicarboxylic acid, and polyesters in which the above-mentioned 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and polyethylene glycol having a mass-average molecular weight of 500 to 3000 are copolymerized in a range of 5 to 15 mass % are particularly preferred, from the viewpoints of being easily soluble in aqueous solvents such as alkaline aqueous solutions while maintaining crystallinity, and exhibiting good false-twisting processability without causing fusion between the composite fibers even in false-twisting processes such as false-twisting where friction is applied under heat. The mass ratio of component A to component B is preferably 70:30 to 95:5.

[0044] The yarn (multifilament) is then cooled by blowing cooling air using a yarn cooling device such as a chimney, oiled and bundled using an oiling device, entangled in a fluid treatment device, taken up by rollers set to a specified peripheral speed, and wound up on a winding device. An example of the wound fiber is classified as a so-called partially oriented yarn (POY), and its production method conforms to the POY method (high-speed spinning method). In producing the partially oriented undrawn yarn, the melt temperature is preferably 270 to 295°C and the spinning speed is preferably in the range of 2000 to 4000 m / min.

[0045] [Thread processing process] The multifilament spun as described above may be subjected to yarn processing such as drawing, thick-and-thin processing, false twisting, and blending, as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired. For example, drawing may be performed using a hot roller drawing method in which preheating and heat treatment are performed on a plurality of heatable rollers (hot rollers), a hot roller / hot plate drawing method in which preheating is performed using hot rollers and heat treatment is performed using a hot plate, or a method of non-uniform drawing using a friction resistor. Furthermore, false twisting may be performed using a draw-friction false twist method in which a pin, belt, friction disk, or the like is used as a twisting element. The yarn processing method is not limited to these, and known methods can be used.

[0046] Furthermore, the multifilament may be twisted before false-twisting (in the present invention, this may be referred to as "pre-twisting"), or may be twisted after normal false-twisting (in the present invention, this may be referred to as "re-twisting"). Furthermore, the yarn may be pre-twisted and false-twisted, and then further twisted. Furthermore, raw silk may be twisted without false-twisting. The number of twists in the pre-twisting is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 300 to 700 T / M. The number of twists in the re-twisting is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 300 to 1500 T / M. This pre-twisting before false-twisting or re-twisting after false-twisting enhances the bending resilience of the woven fabric, making it less likely to wrinkle when worn and improving its aesthetic appearance when worn.

[0047] [Weaving process] To obtain a woven fabric using the multifilament, it is woven using an air jet loom, a water jet loom, a rapier loom, a projectile loom, a shuttle loom, etc. As a method for designing a woven fabric, the obtained multifilament may be used only for the weft or only for the warp, or may be arranged alternately to form a mixed weave.

[0048] [Dyeing process] The woven fabric obtained in the above weaving process is subjected to conventional scouring, relaxation, intermediate heat setting, dyeing, and finishing heat setting. (In the present invention, these processes are sometimes collectively referred to as the "dyeing process.") Dyeing depends on the dyeability of the thermoplastic polymer constituting the textured yarn or the other yarns to be combined. For example, in the case of polyethylene terephthalate, dyeing can be carried out using a disperse dye or a cationic dye in a dye solution preferably at 110 to 130°C. Furthermore, textile printing methods such as direct printing, resist printing, and discharge printing can be used. Furthermore, functional agents such as water absorbents, water repellents, and antistatic agents may be used during the dyeing process.

[0049] [Elution process] By treating the above-mentioned woven fabric with an aqueous solvent such as an alkaline solution for weight reduction, the easily soluble polymer component B is eluted, forming grooves in the fiber axis direction as shown in Figures 1 and 2. One example of weight reduction treatment is a method in which the fabric is heated to 100°C using a 1% by weight aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide in a jet dyeing machine.

[0050] [Sewing process] The Japanese clothing of the present invention is made by sewing the above-mentioned woven fabric, and can be produced by a known method. [Example]

[0051] Next, the present invention will be specifically described based on examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, in the measurement of each physical property, unless otherwise specified, the measurement was performed according to the above-mentioned method.

[0052] [Measurement method] (1) Fineness Fibers were extracted from the woven fabric, and the fineness was determined according to JIS L1013:2010 8.3.1b, Method B. The test was carried out five times, and the average value was taken as the fineness.

[0053] (2) Number of grooves, groove width, groove depth Multifilaments were extracted from the woven fabric and cut to a thickness of 5 μm in the fiber cross-sectional direction. Cross-sectional photographs of the single fibers constituting the multifilament were then taken using an optical microscope. As shown in Figure 1, a line S1 was drawn on the cross-sectional fiber cross-section, tangent to the cross-sectional contour at multiple points. A line S2 was then drawn from the midpoint between the points X1 and X2 to the deepest point T of the groove between the points X1 and X2. A groove was counted when the distance between the points X1 and X2 on the line S1 was 2 μm or less. The groove width was defined as the distance between the points X1 and X2 of the same single fiber. The length of S2 was defined as the groove depth. Measurements were performed on five single fibers (or all fibers if there were fewer than five) from each of the five warp multifilaments in the woven fabric, and on five single fibers (or all fibers if there were fewer than five) from each of the five weft multifilaments, and the average values ​​were calculated. The groove width and groove depth were calculated as average values ​​rounded to one decimal place.

[0054] (3) Cross-sectional area ratio Multifilaments were extracted from the woven fabric and cut to a thickness of 5 μm in the fiber cross-sectional direction, and then cross-sectional photographs of the multifilaments were taken using a digital microscope manufactured by Keyence Corporation. After identifying fiber A and fiber B, the number of these fibers and the cross-sectional area of ​​each single fiber were measured, and the proportions of the cross-sectional area of ​​fiber A and fiber B in the extracted filaments were determined. This procedure was performed on 10 warp and 10 weft threads, and the average value of a total of 20 threads was used as the proportion of the cross-sectional area of ​​fiber A and fiber B.

[0055] (4) Elongation rate The elongation of the woven fabric was determined by JIS L1096:2010 8.14.1 Method A (strip method). The test was performed five times, and the average value was taken as the elongation.

[0056] (5) Elongation recovery rate The elongation recovery rate of the woven fabric was determined by JIS L1096:2010 8.15.1 Method A (strip method). The test was conducted five times, and the average value was taken as the elongation recovery rate.

[0057] (6) Average friction coefficient The frictional feel of the woven fabric was measured using a Kato Tech KES-SE-STP friction tester. A 4cm x 4cm plain weave fabric (muslin waistband fabric manufactured by Yamazen Kobayashi Co., Ltd.) made of 100% wool was attached to the upper sample stage, and a 6cm x 12cm test piece was attached to the lower sample stage. The lower sample stage was moved at a speed of 1mm / sec. The frictional force was detected by a sensor attached to the friction element and charted as a waveform. The average coefficient of friction (MIU) was calculated to determine the average coefficient of friction. The test was conducted three times, and the average value was used as the average coefficient of friction.

[0058] (7) Evaluation of prevention of loose clothing Ten healthy adult women were used as evaluators for the kimonos obtained in the examples or comparative examples. While wearing the kimono, markers such as stickers were attached to both collars at the overlapping points of the right collar (inside) and the left collar (outside) near the cervical fossa (two locations on the right and left collars), and markers such as stickers were attached to the body of the kimono where the string inside the hem and the body of the kimono contact each other (four locations: the front collar seam, the right side seam, the left side seam, and the center back). In this state, the subject raised their arms in front, raised their arms up, spread their arms out to the sides and bent them, and lowered their arms. After each of these movements, the following distances were measured, and the amount of deviation before and after the exercise was measured. Collar misalignment: The distance between the marks on the right and left collars was measured. Amount of shift of the body: The distance between each mark and the part of the body that comes into contact with the string after movement was measured. A small amount of slippage means that the clothes are more effectively prevented from becoming loose. Based on the measurement results, the clothes were rated on a four-point scale: well prevented from becoming loose (4 points), slightly prevented from becoming loose (3 points), not much prevented from becoming loose (2 points), and not prevented from becoming loose (1 point). The average score of each evaluator was rounded up or down.

[0059] (8) Evaluation of wearing comfort The Japanese clothing obtained in the Examples or Comparative Examples was evaluated by 10 healthy adult female evaluators on a four-point scale: fits well, very comfortable (4 points), fits somewhat well, comfortable (3 points), fits somewhat poorly, uncomfortable (2 points), and fits poorly, very uncomfortable (1 point). The average value of each evaluator was rounded up or down to evaluate the wearing comfort.

[0060] (9) Aesthetic evaluation The Japanese clothing products obtained in the Examples or Comparative Examples were evaluated by 10 healthy adult women on a four-point scale: body lines not noticeable (4 points), body lines not noticeable (3 points), body lines slightly noticeable (2 points), and body lines noticeable (1 point). The average value of each evaluator was rounded up or down to evaluate the aesthetics.

[0061] [Example 1] The fiber-forming component (A) was polyethylene terephthalate, and the groove-forming component (B) was polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8 mol% 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 9 wt% polyethylene glycol. The components (A and B) were mixed in a 90:10 mass ratio to form a round-section polyethylene terephthalate. The components (A and B) were spun at a spinning speed of 2,800 m / min so that fiber A with 3-5 grooves accounted for 50% of the cross-sectional area, and fiber B with 6-12 grooves accounted for 50% of the cross-sectional area. A highly oriented, undrawn multifilament yarn with a fineness of 160 dtex, 36 filaments, and an elongation of 160% was obtained. The highly oriented undrawn yarn was then fed from a feed roller using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12, manufactured by TMT Machinery Co., Ltd.) and false twisted at a processing speed of 400 m / min, a draw ratio of 1.80, a heater temperature of 160°C, and a false twist coefficient of 25,000, to obtain a false twisted yarn with a fineness of 90 dtex.

[0062] The false-twisted yarn was then used for both the warp and weft, and the fabric was woven in a steep diagonal pattern on a rapier loom. The resulting woven fabric was then subjected to continuous open-weave scouring at 98°C, jet-relaxation at 120°C, and intermediate setting at 180°C. It was then heated to 100°C using a 1% by weight aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide in a jet-dyeing machine to remove component B (weight loss of 11%). It was then dyed at 130°C using a disperse dye, and given a finishing set at 160°C, resulting in a woven fabric with a warp density of 200 threads / inch and a weft density of 90 threads / inch. The resulting fabric was sewn into Japanese clothing.

[0063] The resulting woven fabric had 50% of its cross-sectional area made up of fibers with 3 to 5 grooves and 50% of its cross-sectional area made up of fibers with 6 to 12 grooves, a groove width of 1.5 μm, and a groove depth of 3.0 μm. The elongation rate in the warp direction was 10%, the elongation recovery rate in the warp direction was 80%, the elongation rate perpendicular to the warp direction was 7%, and the average coefficient of friction was 0.70. The resulting garment was comfortable to wear and had excellent wearability without compromising aesthetics.

[0064] [Example 2] In Example 1, except that the cross section of the fibers contained in the multifilament was changed to a triangular shape, a woven fabric was produced by processing in the same manner as in Example 1, and the obtained woven fabric was sewn into a Japanese clothing item. The obtained Japanese clothing item had a refined texture with a particularly excellent luster, and was excellent in terms of comfort when worn and ability to prevent the clothing from becoming loose, without compromising aesthetics.

[0065] [Example 3] In Example 1, the fibers contained in the multifilament were processed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the cross section of the fibers contained in the multifilament was hexapallobed, to obtain woven fabrics and Japanese clothing products. The obtained Japanese clothing products had an elegant texture with an excellent creaking feeling, and were excellent in wear comfort without compromising aesthetics, and were particularly excellent in preventing the clothes from becoming loose.

[0066] [Example 4] In Example 3, 20% of the fibers A had 3 to 5 grooves, 20% of the fibers B had 6 to 12 grooves, and the remaining 60% was polyethylene terephthalate with a hexa-lobe cross section and no grooves. Processing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 3 to obtain woven fabrics and Japanese clothing. The elongation rate in the warp direction was 10%, the elongation recovery rate in the warp direction was 80%, the elongation rate perpendicular to the warp direction was 7%, and the average coefficient of friction was 0.40. The resulting Japanese clothing had little creaking sensation but excellent abrasion resistance, and was excellent in terms of comfort and slip-down prevention without compromising aesthetics.

[0067] [Example 5] In Example 3, the same processing as in Example 3 was carried out, except that 80% of the fiber A had 3 to 5 grooves and 20% of the fiber B had 6 to 12 grooves, to obtain woven fabrics and Japanese clothing. The obtained Japanese clothing had excellent abrasion resistance, was not impaired in aesthetics, and was comfortable to wear and had excellent properties for preventing the clothing from becoming loose.

[0068] [Example 6] The same processing as in Example 3 was carried out to obtain woven fabrics and Japanese clothing items, except that fiber A having 3 to 5 grooves was used at 60% and fiber B having 6 to 12 grooves at 40%. The obtained Japanese clothing items were excellent in abrasion resistance, did not impair aesthetics, were excellent in comfort to wear, and were particularly excellent in preventing the clothing from becoming loose.

[0069] [Example 7] The same processing as in Example 3 was carried out to obtain woven fabrics and Japanese clothing items, except that fiber A having 3 to 5 grooves was used at 40% and fiber B having 6 to 12 grooves at 60%. The obtained Japanese clothing items had excellent squeaking sensation, were not impaired in aesthetics, and were comfortable to wear, and were particularly excellent in preventing the clothing from becoming loose.

[0070] [Example 8] Woven fabrics and Japanese clothing were obtained in the same manner as in Example 3, except that fiber A having 3 to 5 grooves was used at 20% and fiber B having 6 to 12 grooves at 80%. The resulting Japanese clothing was slightly inferior in abrasion resistance, but had an elegant texture with particularly excellent creaking sensation, and was excellent in terms of comfort and slip-down prevention without compromising aesthetics.

[0071] [Example 9] In Example 3, the mass ratio of component A to component B was set to 85:15, the weight loss rate was set to 16%, and the width and depth of the final grooves were changed as shown in Table 2. Processing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 3 to obtain woven fabrics and Japanese clothing. The elongation rate in the warp direction was 10%, the elongation recovery rate in the warp direction was 80%, the elongation rate perpendicular to the warp direction was 7%, and the average coefficient of friction was 0.50. Furthermore, the resulting Japanese clothing had slightly less squeaking sensation but excellent abrasion resistance, no loss of aesthetics, excellent wearing comfort, and excellent ability to prevent the clothing from becoming loose.

[0072] [Example 10] In Example 3, the mass ratio of component A to component B was set to 85:15, the weight loss rate was set to 16%, and the width and depth of the final grooves were changed as shown in Table 2. The fabric and kimono garments were obtained by processing in the same manner as in Example 3. The elongation rate in the longitudinal direction was 10%, the elongation recovery rate in the longitudinal direction was 80%, the elongation rate perpendicular to the longitudinal direction was 7%, and the average friction coefficient was 0.80. Furthermore, although the resulting kimono garments were slightly inferior in abrasion resistance, they had an elegant texture with excellent creaking properties, and were excellent in comfort and slip-out resistance without compromising aesthetics.

[0073] [Example 11] In Example 3, the fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 3, except that the processing density was changed to 200 warp threads / inch and 105 weft threads / inch, and a woven fabric and a kimono garment were obtained. The elongation rate in the warp direction was 8%, the elongation recovery rate in the warp direction was 80%, the elongation rate perpendicular to the warp direction was 7%, and the average coefficient of friction was 0.70. The resulting kimono garment had an elegant texture with an excellent creaking feel, was particularly aesthetically pleasing, and was excellent in terms of comfort when worn and in terms of preventing the garment from becoming loose.

[0074] [Example 12] The same processing as in Example 3 was carried out to obtain a woven fabric and a Japanese clothing item, except that the processing density was changed to a warp density of 200 threads / inch and a weft density of 75 threads / inch. The obtained Japanese clothing item had an elegant texture with an excellent creaking feeling, and was excellent in comfort to wear without compromising aesthetics, and was particularly excellent in preventing the garment from becoming loose.

[0075] [Example 13] A woven fabric and a kimono garment were obtained in the same manner as in Example 3, except that false twisting was performed at a processing speed of 400 m / min, a draw ratio of 1.80, a heater temperature of 170°C, and a false twist coefficient of 28,000. The resulting kimono garment had an elegant texture with an excellent creaking feel, and was particularly comfortable to wear and had excellent properties for preventing the garment from becoming loose, without compromising aesthetics.

[0076] [Example 14] In Example 11, the fabric was processed to a density of 220 warp threads / inch and 95 weft threads / inch, and tension was applied in the weft direction to intermediate set, but the process was the same as in Example 11 to obtain a woven fabric and a Japanese clothing item. The obtained Japanese clothing item had an elegant texture with an excellent creaking feel, was particularly excellent in aesthetics, and was particularly comfortable to wear and had excellent properties for preventing the garment from becoming loose.

[0077] [Comparative Example 1] A woven fabric and a Japanese clothing product were obtained in the same manner as in Example 3, except that component B was not used and no grooves were formed. The obtained woven fabric became loose because it had no grooves.

[0078] Comparative Example 2 The same processing as in Example 3 was carried out, except that fiber A having 3 to 5 grooves was used in 100% of Example 3, to obtain a woven fabric and a Japanese clothing item. The obtained woven fabric had few grooves and became loose when worn. In addition, the fabric had poor luster.

[0079] Comparative Example 3 The same processing as in Example 3 was carried out, except that fiber B having 6 to 12 grooves was used in 100% of Example 3, to obtain woven fabrics and Japanese clothing. The resulting woven fabrics were prone to deformation and were poor in comfort. Furthermore, fibrillation, such as single fiber cracking, was more likely to occur, resulting in reduced abrasion resistance.

[0080] Comparative Example 4 The same processing as in Example 3 was carried out to obtain a woven fabric and a Japanese clothing item, except that the fabric in Example 3 was composed of fibers having 13 or more grooves. The resulting woven fabric became loose and was poor in comfort. In addition, the abrasion resistance was reduced because fibrillation, such as single fiber cracking, was more likely to occur.

[0081] Comparative Example 5 In Example 3, processing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 3, except that 10% of the fibers had 3 to 5 grooves and 10% of the fibers had 6 to 12 grooves, to obtain a woven fabric and a Japanese clothing item. The obtained woven fabric became loose because there were few fibers with grooves.

[0082] Comparative Example 6 In Example 3, a woven fabric and a Japanese clothing product were obtained in the same manner as in Example 3, except that the yarn was drawn at a processing speed of 400 m / min, a draw ratio of 1.85, and a heater temperature of 170° C. The obtained woven fabric had a low elongation rate in the warp direction, and therefore it became loose and was less comfortable to wear.

[0083] Comparative Example 7 In Example 3, a woven fabric and a Japanese clothing product were obtained in the same manner as in Example 3, except that a polyurethane fiber having a fineness of 22 dtex and one filament and a false-twisted yarn having a fineness of 100 dtex and 37 filaments were used, which was covered in a twisting machine. The obtained woven fabric had a high elongation rate in the warp direction and a low elongation recovery rate, which caused it to become loose when worn, and it was poor in comfort and aesthetics.

[0084] [Table 1]

[0085] [Table 2]

[0086] [Table 3] [Explanation of symbols]

[0087] S1: Line tangent to the contour of the fiber cross section T: Deepest point of the groove S2: Perpendicular line from groove depth point T to line S1 X1, X2: points of contact between the line S1 and the fiber cross-sectional contour

Claims

1. In any one direction, the elongation rate based on JIS L1096:2010 8.14.1 Method A (strip method) is 6% to 20%, and the elongation recovery rate based on JIS L1096:2010 8.15.1 Method A (strip method) is 70% to 100%, Weight per unit area is 100g / m ２ a plain weave fabric made of 100% wool and having a thickness of 0.3 mm is used, and when rubbed in the direction showing the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate, the average coefficient of friction is 0.40 to 1.00; A woven fabric comprising multifilaments, the multifilaments comprising fibers A having 3 to 5 grooves in the fiber axis direction and fibers B having 6 to 12 grooves.

2. 2. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the grooves have a width of 0.1 to 2.0 μm and a depth of 0.1 to 4.0 μm.

3. 3. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the cross section of the multifilament, the ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​the fiber A to the total cross-sectional area of ​​the fibers constituting the multifilament is 25 to 75%, and the ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​the fiber B is 25 to 75%.

4. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the elongation rate based on JIS L1096:2010 8.14.1 Method A (strip method) is 1% to 5% in a direction perpendicular to the direction showing the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate.

5. A Japanese clothing article comprising the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the direction in which the elongation rate and the elongation recovery rate are exhibited is the vertical direction of the body.

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