Cosmetic use of partially or fully hydrogenated polyfarnesenes and method for cosmetic treatment of hair

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a composition (C), said composition (C) comprising, in 100% of its total weight: The present invention also relates to a method for drying and shaping hair comprising: 10% to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer, having a number average molecular weight of ≧10,000 g / mol and ≦120,000 g / mol, which is partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups; and 10% to 90% by weight of a mixture (M) of hydrocarbons, at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for preventing and / or delaying the onset of adverse effects in human hair involving loss of attractiveness after exposure to intense heat. The present invention also relates to a method for drying and shaping hair using said composition.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, more particularly to the cosmetic treatment of hair. [Background technology]

[0002] During drying and styling, hair can be exposed to heat from hot air from a hair dryer, heat from curling tongs or straightening irons, or heat from a heat comb or brush. Such exposure causes thermal stress that denatures the polypeptide chains of hair keratin, particularly affecting its stereochemical conformation and specific intermolecular bonds, resulting in adverse effects on the internal structure of hair. Such adverse effects result in both a deterioration in hair appearance, e.g., reduced gloss, and a deterioration in hair tactile properties, e.g., reduced softness. In addition, external damage to hair, such as lifting and / or swelling of the cuticle of individual hair fibers, can be observed, resulting in increased friction between hair fibers, resulting in surface damage and weakening of hair, or even breakage.

[0003] Numerous compositions have been developed and marketed to protect hair from the harmful effects associated with exposure to intense heat. They form a coating on the hair fiber, thereby reducing the effects of heat within the fiber. These compositions contain film-forming polymers, such as those obtained from the polymerization of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl alcohol, or vinyl acetate.

[0004] International application WO 2014 / 95210 A1 discloses a composition comprising at least one nonionic polymer, such as a mixture of copolymers derived from N-vinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate, and at least one cationic polymer, such as Polyquaternium-46. The presence of the cationic polymer reduces or eliminates the sticky feeling caused by the film-forming polymer and suppresses the deposition of unsightly white residue on hair.

[0005] Silicone derivatives are also known as multifunctional ingredients in hair care compositions, among other properties, to prevent damage caused by heat. For example, there are "aminoglycol" type copolymers such as bis(C13-15 alkoxy)PG-amodimethicone, sold under the name "Dow Corning 8500 Conditioning Agent." Hair care compositions containing them are stable, spread easily on the hair, and form a protective film that prevents moisture loss from the hair shaft due to exposure to heat.

[0006] Siloxane-based polymers are also known to protect hair exposed to heat. These include, for example, the compound of the formula: -[O-Si(CH3)2], commonly known as PDMS or dimethicone. n -, or poly(dimethylsiloxane) of the formula: HO-Si(CH3)2-[O-Si(CH3)2] n This includes dimethiconol, characterized by the structure -Si(CH3)2-OH. Mixtures of dimethicone and dimethiconol are widely used in hygiene products (especially shampoos) and hair care products.

[0007] Silicone compounds that protect hair exposed to heat also include those based on aminosilanes, such as those described in French patent application published under FR 3,038,513 A1 and U.S. patent application published under US 2018 / 161266 A2. For example, international application published under WO 2021 / 260486 A1 describes polysilicone-35, polysilicone-33, polysilicone-29, polysilicone-2, polysilicone-3 ...2 The present invention discloses a composition comprising a film-forming polymer selected from polysilicone-8, polysilicone-25, polysilicone-24, polysilicone-22, polysilicone-19, polysilicone-18, polysilicone-14 and polysilicone-3, and a silane derivative of a hydrolyzed protein, peptide or amino acid.

[0008] However, the above polymers have little or no biodegradability and are derived from fossil-derived raw materials. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0009] [Patent Document 1] International Publication No. 2014 / 95210 [Patent Document 2] French Patent Application Publication No. 3038513 [Patent Document 3] US Patent Application Publication No. 2018 / 161266 [Patent Document 4] International Publication No. 2021 / 260486 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0010] Therefore, the present inventors set out to develop a novel alternative solution to the above copolymers that would provide sufficient protection to heat-exposed hair, while having environmental properties that are in line with both current and future regulations and consumer demands. [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] According to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of a composition (C) comprising, in 100% of its total weight: - 10% to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / mol to 120,000 g / mol, which is partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and - 10% to 90% by weight of a mixture of hydrocarbons (M), in which at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons contain from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, Including, It prevents and / or delays the onset of unattractive and deleterious effects on human hair after exposure to intense heat. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, "adverse effects in human hair resulting in loss of attractiveness" means changes in appearance as a result of exposure to intense heat, such as lifting of the cuticle in individual hair fibers, blistering of individual hair fibers, dullness, weakening of the hair to mechanical stress, occurrence of split ends, cracking and breakage of the hair, loss of softness, increased porosity of the hair fiber and / or decreased hydrophobicity of the hair.

[0013] For purposes of this invention, "high heat" refers to the induced heat emitted by appliances used to dry, straighten, and / or curl wet hair, such as hair dryers, drying hoods, heat combs, heated hairbrushes, straightening irons, and curling tongs. This "high" heat is emitted when these appliances are generally operated at temperatures between 50°C and 250°C.

[0014] In the context of the present invention, the poly(farnesene) polymer(s) comprised in the composition (C) defined above are known and their chemical structures are described in WO 2020 / 144440 These are described in detail in the international application published under number WO 2018 / 052709 A1 and can be obtained by the method described in the international application published under number WO 2018 / 052709 A1.

[0015] In the context of the present invention, the term "mixture of hydrocarbons (M)" refers to a mixture of branched and / or linear alkanes and / or cycloalkanes. A "linear alkane" containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms refers to n-pentadecane, n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane, and n-nonadecane; a "branched alkane" (or isoalkane) containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms refers in particular to 2-methyltetradecane (or isopentadecane), 2-methylpentadecane (or isohexadecane), 2-methylhexadecane (or isoheptadecane), 2-methylheptadecane (or isooctadecane), and 2-methyloctadecane (or isononadecane); and a "cycloalkane containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms" more specifically refers to a saturated hydrocarbon containing at least one saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group optionally substituted with one or more linear or branched alkyl groups. These mixtures can be obtained by conversion of biomass, as disclosed in WO 2020 / 144440 A1.

[0016] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture (M) contained in the composition (C) defined above comprises, in 100% of its total weight: - 15% to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and - 4% to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes).

[0017] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture (M) contained in the composition (C) defined above comprises, in 100% of its total weight: - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; - 96.2% isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where: - 15% to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and - 4% to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes).

[0018] In the context of the present invention, the poly(farnesene) polymer(s) comprised in composition (C) as defined above more particularly have a number average molecular weight of ≧20,000 g / mol and ≦85,000 g / mol, even more particularly ≧30,000 g / mol and ≦80,000 g / mol.

[0019] According to a very particular embodiment of the present invention, the poly(farnesene) polymer contained in composition (C) as defined above has a number average molecular weight of 71,000 g / mol and is fully hydrogenated and functionalized with hydroxyl groups.

[0020] The subject of the invention is more particularly the use as defined above, in which composition (C) comprises, in 100% of its total weight: 40% by weight of a poly(farnesene) polymer, fully hydrogenated and functionalized with hydroxyl groups, having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and - 60% by weight of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), The saturated hydrocarbon mixture (M) is 100% by weight. - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; - 96.2% isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where: - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

[0021] Composition (C) as defined above can be prepared by simply mixing the poly(farnesene) polymer with mixture (M) at a temperature between 20°C and 60°C and with mechanical stirring by an anchor or turbine type spindle at a speed between 20 rpm and 500 rpm.

[0022] According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the use as defined above, characterized in that the composition (C) is used in a cosmetic preparation (F) in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 40% by weight, up to 40% by weight, of 100% of the total weight; more particularly, the use as defined above, in which the cosmetic preparation (F) is an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 40% by weight, up to 40% by weight, of 100% of the total weight: - 50% to 98% by weight of an aqueous phase (A), and - 2% to 50% by weight of a fatty phase (G), The fat phase (G) is 100% of the total weight. - 10% to 80% by weight of a fat composition (C), - 0.5% to 20% by weight of an emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M), of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type. S ), and - 0% to 89.5% by weight of an oil or oils and / or waxes, Including, The wax is characterized by being different from composition (C).

[0023] According to this particular embodiment, the oil(s) optionally contained in the fatty phase (G) defined above are chemical substances or mixtures of chemical substances that are insoluble in water and have the appearance of a liquid at a temperature of 25° C. These oils may be of animal or vegetable origin, or may be synthetic oils.

[0024] Examples of oils of animal origin that can be used in the context of the present invention are squalene or squalane.

[0025] Examples of oils of plant origin that may be used in the context of the present invention include phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sissymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, sesame oil, meadowsweet oil, macadamia kiwi oil, borage oil, blackcurrant oil, coffee oil, pistachio oil, peach kernel oil, raspberry seed oil, strawberry seed oil, melon oil, blueberry seed oil, argan oil, plum oil extract, pomegranate oil, paprika oil, jasmine ... Examples of synthetic oils that may be used in the context of the present invention include fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate; esters derived from lanolin, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate; glycerol triheptanoate, alkyl benzoates, hydrogenated oils, polyolefins such as polyalphaolefins, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene or hydrogenated polyisobutene, sold in France under the name PARLEAM - POLYSYNLANE (trademark) by Ets B. Rossow et Cie (Reference: Michel and Irene Ash; Thesaurus of Chemical Products, Chemical Publishing Co., Inc. 1986, Vol. 1, p. 211, ISBN 0 7131 3603 0); dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, amine-modified silicone, fatty acid-modified silicone, alcohol-modified silicone, silicone modified with alcohol and fatty acid, silicone modified with polyether group, epoxy-modified silicone, silicone modified with fluorine group, cyclic silicone, and silicone oil such as alkyl group-modified silicone.

[0026] According to this particular embodiment, the wax optionally contained in the fatty phase (G) defined above is a chemical substance or mixture of chemical substances that is insoluble in water and that has a solid appearance at a temperature of 45° C. Examples include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cucurbit wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, blackcurrant flower wax, narcissus flower wax, orange flower wax, orange wax, rice wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone wax; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at room temperature, and glycerides that are solid at room temperature.

[0027] According to this particular embodiment, an emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M) of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type is used. S Depending on the nature of the emulsion (E), the emulsion (E) as defined above may be an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0028] The oil-in-water emulsifying surfactant (S1) or a mixture of oil-in-water emulsifying surfactants (M1) present in the fatty phase (G1) of the (O / W) emulsion (E1) S1 ) denotes a chemical substance or a mixture of chemical substances making it possible to stabilize the droplets of the fatty phase (G1) dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase (A). S1) include, among others: - polysorbates resulting from the ethoxylation reaction of 1 molar equivalent of a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan laurate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate or sorbitan oleate, with 5 to 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide; - products resulting from the ethoxylation reaction of 1 molar equivalent of a fatty acid, such as palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid or oleic acid, with 5 to 40 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide; - products resulting from the esterification reaction of fatty acids such as palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, arachidic acid or behenic acid with 3 to 20 molar equivalents of glycerol.

[0029] Water-in-oil emulsifying surfactants (S2) that can be used in the context of the present invention include in particular: - lipoamino acids and their salts, lipopeptides and their salts; sorbitan esters such as sorbitan laurate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate and sorbitan isostearate; glycerol esters such as glycerol laurate, glycerol palmitate, glycerol stearate, glycerol oleate, glycerol sesquioleate, glycerol trioleate and glycerol isostearate; esters of polyglycols, polyglycerols or polyhydric alcohols, such as polyglycol or polyglycerol laurate, polyglycol or polyglycerol palmitate, polyglycol or polyglycerol stearate, polyglycol or polyglycerol oleate, polyglycol or polyglycerol sesquioleate, polyglycol or polyglycerol trioleate, polyglycol or polyglycerol isostearate, polyhydroxystearates, for example HYPERMER® B246, ARLACEL® P135, DEHYMULS® PGPH and DECAGLYN® 5HS, - polyethylene glycol-alkyl glycol copolymers, such as PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer, for example ELFACOS ST 9™, - sucrose esters, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated methyl glucoside esters, - fatty acids and ethoxylated fatty alcohols, anionic emulsifiers such as decyl phosphate and cetearyl sulfate; aluminum polyoxystearates (e.g. MANALOX®), magnesium stearate and aluminum stearate; and - alkyl polyglycosides, compositions of alkyl polyglycosides with fatty alcohols.

[0030] An example of an alkyl polyglycoside composition is a compound of the formula: R1-O-(G) xwherein G represents a residue of a reducing sugar selected from glucose or xylose, R1-O- is attached to G through the anomeric carbon of the sugar residue to form an acetal functional group, x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, and R1 is n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, or , 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, and 2-decyltetradecyl), the composition (CA1) is composed of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulae R1-O-(G)1-H, R1-O-(G)2-H, R1-O-(G)3-H, and R1-O-(G)4-H, in which the molar ratios of a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5 are respectively a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5, and the sum of a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 is equal to 1, and a1+2 a2 +3 a3 +4 a4 +5 a5 The sum of is equal to x.

[0031] An example of a composition of alkyl polyglycoside and fatty alcohol is composition (CA2), which contains, in 100% of the total weight: - 10% to 50% by weight, more particularly 20% to 30% by weight, of said composition (CA1) as defined above, and between 90% and 50% by weight, more particularly between 80% and 70% by weight, of at least one fatty alcohol of formula R'1-OH, in which R'1 is identical to or different from R1 and represents a group chosen from n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl or 2-decyltetradecyl; R'1 more particularly represents 2-octyldodecyl.

[0032] Another example of a composition of alkyl polyglycoside and fatty alcohol is composition (CA3), which contains, in 100% of the total weight: - 15% to 25% by weight of composition (CA1), - 55% to 65% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol of formula R'1-OH, where R'1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl group; and - 10% to 30% by weight of compounds of the formula Z2-O-[CH2-CH(R4)-O] y2 -Z'2 (wherein y2 represents an integer of 2 or more and 50 or less, R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, or an ethyl group, and Z2 represents the following formula: [ka] wherein y'2 represents an integer between 0 and 10, more particularly an integer between 1 and 10, and Z'2 is the same as or different from Z2 and represents a hydrogen atom or a group having the formula as defined above.

[0033] A (W / O) type emulsifying surfactant (S2) or a mixture of (W / O) type emulsifying surfactants (M) present in the fatty phase (G2) of the (W / O) type emulsion (E2). S2 ), more specifically, alkyl polyglycoside compositions, alkyl polyglycoside and fatty alcohol compositions, polyglycerol esters, alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, polyglycol polyhydroxystearates, polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates, alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates, and polyethylene glycol-alkyl glycol copolymers.

[0034] The (W / O) type emulsion (E2) defined above contains, in the aqueous phase (A), 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight of a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) or a mixture of crosslinked anionic polyelectrolytes (M p ) can also be included.

[0035] In accordance with the above definition, crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) denotes a three-dimensional network of non-linear crosslinked anionic polyelectrolytes that are insoluble in water but are water-swellable, resulting in the formation of a chemical gel.

[0036] Examples of said crosslinked anionic polyelectrolytes (P) include: - homopolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt), crosslinked with trialkylamines and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ), partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, and of acrylic acid (δ), partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular, said copolymers in which the molar ratios of the monomers (γ) and (δ) are as follows: 30%≦(γ)≦90%, or more specifically 40%≦(γ)≦90%, and 10% ≤ (δ) ≤ 70%, or more specifically 10% ≤ (δ) ≤ 60%; - 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) (partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt) and acrylamide (ε), crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular said copolymers in which the molar ratio of monomers (γ) and (ξ) is: 30%≦(γ)≦90%, and 10% ≤ (ε) ≤ 70%; copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) (partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt) and of hydroxyethyl acrylate (ξ), crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular, the above copolymers in which the molar ratios of the monomers (γ) and (ξ) are as follows: 30%≦(γ)≦90%, and 10% ≤ (ξ) ≤ 70%; - terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) (partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt), acrylic acid (δ) (partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt) and acrylamide (ε), crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular said terpolymers in which the molar ratios of the monomers (γ), (δ) and (ε) are as follows: 30%≦(γ)≦45%, 2%≦(δ)≦10%, more specifically 2%≦(δ)≦8%, and 45% ≤ (ε) ≤ 68%, more specifically 47% ≤ (δ) ≤ 68%; - terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) (partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt), N,N-dimethylacrylamide (β) and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate (α), crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular said copolymers in which the molar ratios of the monomers (γ), (β) and (α) are as follows: 60%≦(γ)≦80%, 15%≦(β)≦39.5%, and 0.5% ≤ (α) ≤ 5%; - quaternary copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) (partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt), N,N-dimethylacrylamide (β), lauroyl methacrylate (η) and stearoyl methacrylate (μ), crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular said copolymers in which the molar ratios of the monomers (y), (β), (η) and (μ) are as follows: 60%≦(γ)≦80%, 15%≦(β)≦39%, 0.5%≦(η)≦2.5%, and 0.5%≦(μ)≦2.5%.

[0037] The emulsions (E), (E1) and (E2) may also comprise excipients and / or active ingredients conventionally used in the field of formulations for application to the hair or scalp. Thus, according to another particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsions (E), (E1) and (E2) defined above further comprise one or more auxiliary compounds selected from the following: foaming and / or cleansing surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickeners and / or gelling agents, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, solvents and cosolvents, hydrotropic agents, plasticizers, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers, opacifying agents, pearlizing agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorants, agents intended for hair and skin bleaching. bleaching agents targeted at the skin, active ingredients for treating and / or protecting skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles intended to provide a visual effect or to encapsulate active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texture modifiers, optical brighteners or insect repellents.

[0038] Examples of foaming and / or cleansing surfactants optionally present in the emulsions (E), (E1) and (E2) defined above include anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic foaming and / or cleansing surfactants suitable for topical application, which are conventionally used in the cosmetic field.

[0039] "Cosmetically acceptable" anionic foaming and / or cleansing surfactants include salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or ammonium, amines, amino alcohols, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamido sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamido sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyl lactylates, N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, N-acyl derivatives of peptides, N-acyl derivatives of proteins, or fatty acids.

[0040] "Cosmetically acceptable" amphoteric foaming and / or cleansing surfactants include alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.

[0041] "Cosmetically acceptable" cationic foaming and / or cleansing surfactants include quaternary ammonium derivatives.

[0042] "Cosmetically acceptable" nonionic foaming and / or cleansing surfactants include alkyl polyglycosides containing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, castor oil derivatives, polysorbates, cocamides, and N-alkylamines.

[0043] "Cosmetically acceptable" thickening and / or gelling surfactants include, in particular: optionally alkoxylated alkyl polyglycoside fatty esters, such as ethoxylated methyl polyglucoside esters (for example PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate, sold under the names GLUCAMATE™ LT and GLUMATE™ DOE120, respectively); alkoxylated fatty acid esters, such as PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate and PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate (sold under the names CROTHIX® DS53 and ANTIL® 141, respectively); - fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates, such as PPG 14 Laureth Isofloryl Dicarbamate and PPG 14 Palmeth 60 Hexyl Dicarbamate (sold under the names ELFACOS® T211 and ELFACOS® GT2125, respectively);

[0044] "Cosmetically acceptable" emulsifying surfactants include, among others, nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

[0045] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" nonionic emulsifying surfactants include sorbitol fatty acids. These include fatty acid esters (e.g., products sold under the names MONTANE® 80, MONTANE® 85, and MONTANE® 60); ethoxylated castor oil and ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil (e.g., products sold under the name SIMULSOL® 989); glycerol stearate and poly(ethoxylated) stearic acid having 5 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide (e.g., a composition comprising (ethoxylated) stearic acid having 135 mol of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate, sold under the name SIMULSOL® 165); ethoxylated sorbitan esters (e.g., products sold under the name MONTANOX®); mannitan esters; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; and methyl glucoside esters.

[0046] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" anionic emulsifying surfactants include decyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate (sold under the name AMPHISOL™), glyceryl stearate citrate; cetearyl sulfate, compositions of arachidyl / behenyl phosphate and arachidyl / behenyl alcohol (sold under the name SENSANOV™ WR), sodium stearate or triethanolamine stearate, N-acyl derivatives of amino acids as salts (e.g., stearoyl glutamic acid).

[0047] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" cationic emulsifying surfactants include amine oxides, Quaternium-82, and surfactants described in published international application WO 96 / 00719 (primarily those having a fatty chain containing at least 16 carbon atoms).

[0048] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" opacifying and / or pearlizing agents include sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, and fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0049] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" texture modifiers include N-acyl derivatives of amino acids (e.g., lauroyl lysine), octenyl starch succinate, and myristyl polyglucosides (sold under the names AMINOHOPE™ LL, DRYFLO™, and MONTANOV 14, respectively); cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, and mica.

[0050] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" solvents and co-solvents include, alone or in admixture, water, glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, and water-soluble alcohols (e.g., ethanol, isopropanol, or butanol).

[0051] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" deodorants include alkali metal silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, and zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, and polyglycerol caprate; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metal zeolites; Triclosan™; aluminum bromide hydrate, aluminum chloride hydrate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum and zirconium chloride hydrate, aluminum and zirconium trichloride hydrate, aluminum and zirconium chloride ... and zirconium tetrachloride hydrate, aluminum and zirconium pentachloride hydrate, aluminum and zirconium octachloride hydrate, aluminum sulfate, sodium lactate and aluminum lactate, aluminum glycol chloride hydrate complexes (e.g., aluminum propylene glycol chloride hydrate complex, aluminum propylene glycol dichloride hydrate complex, aluminum propylene glycol sesquichloride hydrate complex, aluminum polyethylene glycol chloride hydrate complex, aluminum polyethylene glycol dichloride hydrate complex, aluminum polyethylene glycol sesquichloride hydrate complex).

[0052] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" antioxidants include EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, and mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINE GL 47S (INCI name: tetrasodium glutamate diacetate).

[0053] Examples of active ingredients optionally present in the emulsions (E), (E1) and (E2) defined above include: Vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (e.g. retinyl palmitate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (e.g. ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (e.g. tocopherol acetate), vitamin B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); - sedative compounds, in particular SEPICALM® S, allantoin and bisabolol; - compounds exhibiting moisturizing action, such as urea, hydroxyurea, glyceryl glucoside, diglyceryl glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, glycerol, diglycerol, xylyl polyglucoside (sold under the name Aquaxyl®); - polyphenol-rich plant extracts such as grape extract, pine extract, wine extract, olive extract, N-acyl peptides (e.g. MATRIXIL®); N-acyl amino acids; N-acyl partial protein hydrolysates; amino acids; peptides; total protein hydrolysates; soy extracts (e.g. Raffermine®); wheat extracts (e.g. TENSINE® or GLIADINE®); tannin-rich plant extracts, isoflavone-rich plant extracts or terpene-rich plant extracts; - freshwater or marine algae extracts; marine plant extracts; general marine extracts such as coral, essential waxes, bacterial extracts; - ceramides; phospholipids; antibacterial or cleansing compounds (e.g., LIPACIDE® C8G, LIPACIDE® UG, SEPICONTROL®) A5; OCTOPIROX® or SENSIVA® SC50); - compounds exhibiting activating or stimulating properties (PHYSIOGENYL™, panthenol and its derivatives (e.g. SEPICAP™ MP)); anti-ageing active ingredients (e.g. SEPILIFT™ DPHP, LIPACIDE™ PVB, SEPIVINOL™, SEPIVITAL™, MANOLIVA™, PHYTO-AGE™, TIMECODE™, SURVICODE™); - Anti-photoaging active ingredients; active ingredients that protect the integrity of the dermal / epidermal junction; - Active ingredients that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans; active ingredients that have a positive effect on chemical intercellular communication, such as cytokines, or physical intercellular communication, such as integrins; - Active ingredients that produce a "warming" sensation on the skin (e.g., skin microcirculation activators [nicotinic acid derivatives, etc.]) and products that produce a "cooling" sensation on the skin (e.g., menthol and its derivatives) ); - active ingredients that improve the microcirculation of the skin (e.g. venous tonics); active ingredients with draining action; active ingredients with decongestant action such as extracts of ginkgo, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, butcher's broom, centella, fucus, rosemary and willow.

[0054] The emulsions (E), (E1) and (E2) subject of the present invention can be prepared by methods known to those skilled in the art, including in particular the following steps: - preparing said aqueous phase (A) by mixing all hydrophilic components in water; - preparing said fatty phase (G) by mixing all the hydrophilic and lipophilic components contained in the oil or oil mixtures and / or waxes that constitute said phase (G) and then adding thereto said composition (C) as defined above; - mixing, at a suitable temperature, said aqueous phase (A) and said fatty phase (G) with mechanical stirring using an anchor spindle at a speed of between 60 rpm and about 100 rpm until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained; - optionally adjusting the pH of the emulsion.

[0055] The emulsions (E), (E1) and (E2) can be filled under pressure, for example in an aerosol device, a "pump bottle" type device or a device with a perforated wall, such as a mesh.

[0056] According to another more specific aspect, the present invention relates to the use as defined above, characterized in that said composition (C) is used in a cosmetic formulation (F) and comprises from 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 5% by weight, of 100% of the total weight.

[0057] Another subject of the invention is a method for drying hair, characterized in that it comprises the following successive steps: - step a) of applying to the hair a cosmetic preparation (F) comprising 0.2% to 40% by weight of a composition (C) in 100% of the total weight, The composition (C) contains, in 100% of the total weight, - 10 to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / mol to 120,000 g / mol, which is partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and - 10 to 90% by weight of a mixture (M) of hydrocarbons, of which at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons contain from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - at the end of step a), an optional step b), leaving the hair at room temperature for 5 to 60 minutes, then - a step c) of drying said hair at the end of step a) or optionally at the end of step b) using a heating appliance such as a hair dryer or a heat hood.

[0058] In step a) of the drying method defined above, said formulation F) is applied directly or indirectly by means of any kind of support intended for contact with the skin or hair, such as, for example, paper, wipes or textiles.

[0059] In step b) of the drying method defined above, "room temperature" means a temperature between 15°C and 35°C, in particular between 20°C and 30°C.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment of the method defined above, the mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) used in step a) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, comprising, in 100% of its total weight: - 15% to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and - 4% to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), Includes.

[0061] According to a more particular embodiment of the method defined above, the mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) used in step a) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, comprising, in 100% of its total weight: - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; - 96.2% isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where: - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

[0062] According to another particular embodiment of the process defined above, the poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) comprised in the formulation (F) used in step a) has a number average molecular weight of ≧20,000 g / mol and ≦90,000 g / mol, in particular ≧40,000 g / mol and ≦80,000 g / mol; the poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) comprised in the formulation (F) used in step a) is more particularly fully hydrogenated and functionalized with hydroxyl groups and has a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000 g / mol.

[0063] According to a more specific embodiment of the method defined above, the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) used in step a) comprises, in 100% of its total weight: 40% by weight of a poly(farnesene) polymer, fully hydrogenated and functionalized with hydroxyl groups, having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and - 60% by weight of said mixture (M) of saturated hydrocarbons, The saturated hydrocarbon mixture (M) is 100% by weight. - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; - 96.2% isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where: - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

[0064] According to another particular embodiment of the method defined above, said composition (C) is used in an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), in which, in 100% of the total weight, - 50% to 98% by weight of said aqueous phase (A), and - 2% to 50% by weight of said fatty phase (G), Including, The fatty phase (G) comprises, in 100% of the total weight: - 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C), - 0.5% to 20% by weight of an emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M), of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type. S ), and - 0% to 89.5% by weight of an oil or oils and / or waxes Including, The wax is different from the composition (C).

[0065] According to another specific embodiment of the method defined above, said composition (C) is used in a cosmetic formulation (F) and comprises from 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 5% by weight, of 100% of the total weight.

[0066] Another subject of the invention is a method for shaping hair, comprising the following successive steps: - step d) of applying to dry or wet hair a cosmetic preparation (F) comprising 0.2% to 40% by weight of composition (C), based on 100% of the total weight, The composition (C) contains, in 100% of the total weight, - 10 to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / mol to 120,000 g / mol, which is partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and - step d) comprising 10% to 90% by weight of a mixture of hydrocarbons (M), of which at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons contain from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - at the end of step d), an optional step e) of leaving the hair at room temperature for 5 to 60 minutes, then - a step f) at the end of step d) or optionally at the end of step e), shaping the hair using a heating tool such as a straightening iron or curling tongs.

[0067] In the definition of the method defined above, "shaping the hair" means the action of combing, straightening, waving and / or curling the hair.

[0068] In the shaping method defined above, "room temperature" means a temperature of 15°C to 35°C, particularly 20°C to 30°C.

[0069] In step d) of the shaping method defined above, said preparation (F) is applied directly or indirectly by means of any kind of support intended for contact with the skin or hair, such as, for example, paper, wipes or textiles.

[0070] According to a more particular embodiment of the method defined above, the mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) used in step a) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, comprising, in 100% of its total weight: - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; - 96.2% isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where: - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) are 19 carbon atoms. Contains elementary atoms.

[0071] According to another particular embodiment of the process defined above, the poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) comprised in the formulation (F) used in step a) has a number average molecular weight of ≧20,000 g / mol and ≦90,000 g / mol, in particular ≧40,000 g / mol and ≦80,000 g / mol; the poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) comprised in the formulation (F) used in step a) is more particularly fully hydrogenated, functionalized with hydroxyl groups and has a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000 g / mol.

[0072] According to a more specific embodiment of the method defined above, the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) used in step a) comprises, in 100% of its total weight: 40% by weight of a poly(farnesene) polymer, fully hydrogenated and functionalized with hydroxyl groups, having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and - 60% by weight of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), The saturated hydrocarbon mixture (M) is 100% by weight. - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; - 96.2% isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where: - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

[0073] According to another particular embodiment of the method defined above, said composition (C) is used in an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), in which, in 100% of the total weight, - 50% to 98% by weight of said aqueous phase (A), and - 2% to 50% by weight of a fatty phase (G), Including, The fatty phase (G) comprises, in 100% of the total weight: - 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C), - 0.5% to 20% by weight of an emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M), of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type. S ), and - 0% to 89.5% by weight of an oil or oils and / or waxes, Including, The wax is different from the composition (C).

[0074] According to a more specific embodiment of the method defined above, said composition (C) is used in a cosmetic preparation (F) and comprises from 1% to 10% by weight, more specifically from 2% to 5% by weight, of 100% of the total weight.

[0075] Experimental Example

[0076] Preparation of Composition (C) Used in the Examples

[0077] The poly(farnesene) polymer contained in composition (C) used in the following examples was fully hydrogenated, functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and had a number average molecular weight of 71,000 g / mol. It was prepared according to the procedure described in WO 2018 / 052709.

[0078] The mixture (M) contained in this same composition (C) is commercially available under the trade name Emogreen™ L19. It contains, by weight, 3.8% linear alkanes containing 15-19 carbon atoms, 96.2% isoalkanes containing 15-19 carbon atoms, and less than 0.1% cycloalkanes containing 15-19 carbon atoms. Of these components, 17.1% by weight are alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes, and cycloalkanes), 72.5% by weight are alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes, and cycloalkanes), and 4.7% by weight are alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes, and cycloalkanes). Mixture (M) was prepared according to the method described in WO 2020 / 144440 A1.

[0079] A desired amount of Emogreen™ L19 was poured into a glass reactor equipped with a double jacket through which a temperature-controlled fluid was circulated and a mechanical stirrer equipped with an anchor-type paddle. The stirring speed was set at 50 rpm and the temperature at 25°C. A desired amount of poly(farnesene) polymer was then added with medium stirring at 60°C. The amounts added were adjusted so that the content of Emogreen™ L19 and the content of poly(farnesene) polymer were 60% by weight and 40% by weight, respectively, of the resulting composition (C) (100% by weight).

[0080] Demonstration of the suitability of composition (C) in formulations intended for application to hair

[0081] A. Compatibility of Composition (C) in Hair Conditioning Formulations Containing Cationic Conditioning Agents <Preparation of formulation> Formulations (F1) and (F2) of the present invention and comparative formulations (F'1) and (F'2) were prepared, and their compositions are shown in Table 1 below, with proportions expressed in % by weight.

[0082] <Evaluation of formulations> 100cm 3 A quantity of test composition was added to 250 cm 3The test compositions are placed in bottles of 100 ml each and placed in a climatic chamber regulated at 20°C for 3 months. The appearance of the test compositions is evaluated after 7 days and after 3 months. The same procedure is repeated with samples of new formulations, the temperature of the climatic chamber being regulated at 45°C. The appearance of the test compositions is evaluated after 3 months. The results obtained are shown in Table 2 below.

[0083] [Table 1]

[0084] [Table 2]

[0085] B. Compatibility of Composition (C) in Oil-in-Water Hair Conditioning Emulsions Containing Crosslinked Cationic Polyelectrolytes <Preparation of formulation> Formulations (F3) and (F4) of the present invention and comparative formulations (F'3) and (F'4) were prepared, and their compositions are shown in Table 3 below, with proportions expressed in % by weight.

[0086] <Evaluation of formulations> Formulations (F3), (F4), (F'3) and (F'4) are evaluated using the same procedures as described above in paragraph A, "Evaluation of Formulations." The results obtained are shown in Table 4 below.

[0087] [Table 3]

[0088] [Table 4]

[0089] C. Suitability of composition (C) in a leave-on oil-in-water emulsion containing at least one surfactant and intended for application to the hair <Preparation of formulation> Formulations (F5) and (F6) of the present invention and comparative formulations (F'5) and (F'6) were prepared, and their compositions are shown in Table 5 below, with proportions expressed in % by weight.

[0090] [Table 5]

[0091] <Evaluation of formulations> Formulations (F5), (F6), (F'5) and (F'6) are evaluated using the same procedure as above, and the results are shown in Table 6 below.

[0092] [Table 6]

[0093] D. Compatibility of composition (C) in oils applied to hair <Preparation of formulation> The formulation of the present invention (F7) and comparative formulations (F'7) and (F'8) were prepared, and their compositions were The percentages are shown in Table 7 below, expressed as weight percent.

[0094] [Table 7]

[0095] <Evaluation of formulations> Formulations (F7), (F'7) and (F'8) are evaluated using the same procedure as above, and the results are shown in Table 8 below.

[0096] [Table 8]

[0097] E. Observations and Conclusions The results obtained in the above paragraphs lead to the following conclusions: - formulations (F1) and (F2) according to the invention comprising a conditioning agent and composition (C) show a uniform appearance even after 3 months of storage at 45°C, whereas such a uniform appearance is not observed for formulations (F'1) and (F'2) comprising silicone derivatives. The W / O emulsion of the present invention (preparation (F4)) containing a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte and 5% of composition (C) retains a homogeneous appearance even after 3 months of storage at 45°C, whereas the preparation (F'4) containing the silicone derivative exhibits exudation. The leave-on O / W emulsions comprising at least one surfactant and composition (C) have a more homogeneous appearance than the comparative emulsions comprising droplets (formulations (F'5) and (F'6)). - Formulation (F7) containing composition (C) exhibits a uniform appearance even after storage at 45°C for 3 months, but formulation (F'8) does not exhibit such a uniform appearance and has a non-uniform appearance.

[0098] Therefore, from all these results it can be concluded that the formulations containing composition (C) are highly compatible with the design of formulations intended for application in hair care and / or hair hygiene.

[0099] Demonstration that formulations containing composition (C) maintain the integrity of keratin within the hair cortex

[0100] The Xpolar® technology developed by Kmax Innovative Systems is used to evaluate the effectiveness of said composition (C) in maintaining the integrity of keratin within the hair cortex.

[0101] A. Principles of the evaluation method Xpolar® technology is an imaging mode integrated into a microscope platform that allows for the observation and measurement of polarization changes caused by the sample under study. This technology provides information about the birefringence of the sample being evaluated. "Birefringence" refers to the physical property of a material whereby light propagates anisotropically. In a birefringent medium, the refractive index is not unique but depends on the polarization direction of the light waves. The "k-index" parameter measured with Xpolar® technology provides information about the birefringence of the sample at each point in the image and can be used to quantitatively evaluate the sample's properties. Hair is composed of keratin, a group of fibrous proteins. Keratin fibers contain crystalline moieties held together by Coulombic and hydrophobic interactions. This crystalline structure of keratin fibers within the cortex gives hair the ability to change the polarization of light passing through it, a property known as birefringence. Healthy (control) hair (i.e., hair not exposed to intense heat) has a high k-index value. The color within the fiber is uniform and consists of the maximum level of color measured (predominant red-orange coloration). When the keratin fibers within the hair are not adversely affected, especially by exposure to intense heat, they are organized into a crystalline network, resulting in a high "k-index" value. On the other hand, when hair is exposed to thermal stress, for example to intense heat, the internal structure of the keratin changes, leading to its disintegration and changes in its optical properties. Ultimately, a decrease in the "k-index" and a rapid decrease in the color within the fiber occur, and the color within the fiber becomes inhomogeneous and exhibits different hues (green, blue, purple).

[0102] B. Evaluation Methodology Procedure The test composition is applied to dry hair using a comb containing approximately 30 mg of the test composition.The hair is then massaged for 30 seconds and then dried at room temperature (20°C) for 30 minutes.Then, a heat treatment is performed using a straightening iron at a temperature of 210°C for 50 passes.The treated hair is left at room temperature for 30 minutes.

[0103] The observation slides are prepared by embedding the hair in a freezing medium, then freezing the embedded hair (-20°C), then cutting 30 μm sections and mounting them on an observation device (Xpolar device, magnification: ×20, 25 images taken for each condition).

[0104] C. Evaluation Compositions Three compositions and four formulations were evaluated, as shown in Tables 9 and 10, respectively.

[0105] [Table 9]

[0106] [Table 10]

[0107] Similar evaluations were performed on untreated hair that had not been subjected to heat treatment ("negative control") and on untreated hair that had been subjected to the heat treatment described in the above procedure ("positive control").

[0108] D. Results Obtained The resulting "k-index" values ​​are listed in Table 11. The results are expressed as two values. The change VA1 relative to the negative control is calculated as follows: VA1= [(k-index i ; - k-index negative control ) × 100 / k-index negative control The protection factor VA2 is calculated as follows: VA2= 100 - [(k-index i ; - k-index negative control ) × 100 / (k-index negative control k-index positive control )]

[0109] [Table 11]

[0110] Furthermore, statistical analysis between the different compositions was carried out and showed significant differences as shown in Table 12 below.

[0111] [Table 12]

[0112] <Observations and Comments> Composition (C) (LCE21076) and a composition based on a silicone derivative (LCE21077) demonstrated protection rates of 38.2% and 33.1%, respectively, against exposure to the heat of a hair straightener. The composition based on the hydrocarbon mixture Emogreen™ L19 (LCE21078) demonstrated a negative protection rate, indicating its ineffectiveness, and visual observation during the experiment highlighted significant keratin degradation. Among the test formulations, the so-called "placebo" formulation (LCE21073) did not contain composition (C), a silicone derivative, or other film-forming or keratin-protecting agents, and thus keratin damage due to heat treatment was observed. The protection rate results indicated that the three formulations (LCE21071), (LCE21072), and (LCE21075) provided keratin protection significantly different from that provided by the placebo formulation (LCE21073). Composition (C) exhibits a protective effect on keratin in the hair cortex, reducing the impact of heat on keratin integrity by 38%. This property was confirmed by comparing the formulation with a placebo, which showed a keratin protection rate of 22%. Thus, the formulation of the present invention, comprising composition (C), provides a cosmetic formulation with properties that allow it to delay or prevent the onset of adverse effects, including loss of attractiveness, on human hair after exposure to intense heat, as an alternative solution to silicone derivatives such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS or dimethicone) and / or dimethiconol. This alternative uses chemical compositions of plant and / or biodegradable origin.

[0113] <Examples of cosmetic preparations> Water-in-oil emulsion for pre-drying hair care [Table 13]

[0114] Oil-in-water emulsion hair balm

[0115] [Table 14]

[0116] Superb hair mask

[0117] [Table 15]

[0118] Precious Hair Oil

[0119] [Table 16]

[0120] "Perfecting" smoothing serum protects hair from heat and leaves it soft and supple

[0121] [Table 17]

[0122] The compounds identified by trade name in the various formulations and examples are described below: Varisoft™ BT85 is an antistatic agent and conditioner identified by the INCI name: Behentrimonium chloride. ·AG C 16 -C 18 is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (50 / 50 by weight). Natrosol™ 250HPC is the trade name for hydroxyethyl cellulose. Massocare™ SIL CPD is an emollient identified by the INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG / PPG-18 Dimethicone. SIMULQUAT™ HC305 is an emulsion stabilizer and thickener identified by the INCI name: Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Coceth-7. Easynov™ is a water-in-oil emulsifier identified by the INCI names: Octyldodecanol, Octyldodecylxyloside and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate. · Euxyl™ PE9010 is a preservative identified by the INCI names: Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin. Dissolvine™ GL47 is a sequestrant identified by the INCI name: tetrasodium glutamate diacetate. SEPIMAX® Zen is a polymeric thickener used as a rheology modifier in cosmetic formulations, whose polymeric backbone consists of monomer units derived from 2-methyl 2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (sodium salt form), N,N-dimethylacrylamide, tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate, and contains trimethylolpropane triacrylate as a crosslinker. It is manufactured by INC Identified by name: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6. SOLAGUM™ TARA is tara gum used as a texture modifier and emulsion stabilizer and is identified by the INCI name: Caesalpinia spinosa gum. Fluidifeel™ Easy is a mixture of lauryl polyglucosides (degree of polymerization 1.20), myristyl polyglucosides (degree of polymerization 1.20), and polyglyceryl-6 laurate, and is used as an oil-in-water emulsifier for preparing cosmetic emulsions.

[0123] Xylishine™ is an active agent for improving hair shine and is identified by the INCI name: Xylitylglucoside (and) Anhydroxylitol (and) Maltitol (and) Xylitol (and) Pelvetia canaliculata extract. LANOL® 2681 is a fatty phase with emollient properties used in the preparation of cosmetic compositions, identified by the INCI name Coco-Caprylate / Caprate. SEA SATIN™ is an oily extract from the marine plant Beta maritima, used in cosmetic compositions for its properties of improving hair volume, shine and suppleness. It is identified by the INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride and Beet Root Extract. Alariane™ is an ingredient used for its protective effect on hair exposed to external stresses (pollution, UV radiation). It is identified by its INCI name: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alaria Esculenta Extract.

Claims

1. The composition (C) contains, in an amount of 100% by total weight, - 10% to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight of ≧10,000 g / mol and ≦120,000 g / mol, which is partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and - from 10% to 90% by weight of a mixture of hydrocarbons (M), at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, Including, Use of composition (C) to prevent and / or delay the onset of adverse effects associated with loss of attractiveness in human hair after exposure to intense heat.

2. The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) contained in the composition (C) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, and the mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M) contains, in 100% of the total weight, - from 15% to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes); - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - from 4% to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes); 2. The use according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises:

3. The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, in 100% of the total weight: - 3.8% linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, 96.2% isoalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

4. 4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the poly(farnesene) polymer present in composition (C) has a number average molecular weight of ≥ 20,000 g / mol to ≤ 90,000 g / mol, in particular ≥ 40,000 g / mol to ≤ 80,000 g / mol.

5. 5. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that the poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) is fully hydrogenated, functionalized with hydroxyl groups and has a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000 g / mol.

6. The composition (C) is, in an amount of 100% by total weight, - 40% by weight of a poly(farnesene) polymer, fully hydrogenated and functionalized with hydroxyl groups, having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and - 60% by weight of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), The mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M) is 100% by weight. - 3.8% linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, 96.2% isoalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms; Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) contain 19 carbon atoms.

7. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the composition (C) is used in a cosmetic preparation (F) and contains 0.2% by weight to 40% by weight, with 100% of the total weight.

8. The cosmetic preparation (F) is an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), which comprises, in 100% of the total weight: - from 50% to 98% by weight of said aqueous phase (A), and - from 2% to 50% by weight of said fatty phase (G), Including, The fatty phase (G) comprises, in an amount of 100% by weight: - from 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C), - 0.5% to 20% by weight of an emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M), of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type. Ｓ ), and - from 0% to 89.5% by weight of an oil or oils and / or waxes, Including, 8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that said wax is different from said composition (C).

9. The use according to claim 7, characterized in that the composition (C) is used in a cosmetic preparation (F) and comprises from 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 5% by weight, in 100% of the total weight.

10. A method for drying hair comprising the following successive steps: a) step a) of applying to the hair a cosmetic preparation (F) comprising from 0.2% to 40% by weight of a composition (C), with the composition representing 100% of its total weight, The composition (C) is, in an amount of 100% by total weight, - 10 to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight of ≧10,000 g / mol and ≦120,000 g / mol, which is partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and - from 10 to 90% by weight of a mixture of hydrocarbons (M), in which at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons contain from 15 to 19 carbon atoms; - at the end of step a), leaving the hair at room temperature for 5 to 60 minutes, an optional step b), then - at the end of step a) or optionally at the end of step b), a step c) of drying said hair using a heating appliance such as a hair dryer or a heating hood. The method according to claim 1, further comprising:

11. The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) used in step a) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, which contains, in 100% of the total weight: - from 15% to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes); - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - from 4% to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes); The method of claim 10, comprising:

12. The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) used in step a) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, which contains, in 100% of the total weight: - 3.8% linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, 96.2% isoalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and 12. The method according to claim 11, characterized in that 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) contain 19 carbon atoms.

13. 13. The method according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that the poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) comprised in the formulation (F) used in step a) has a number average molecular weight of ≥ 20,000 g / mol to ≤ 90,000 g / mol, in particular ≥ 40,000 g / mol to ≤ 80,000 g / mol.

14. 14. The method according to claim 13, wherein the poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) comprised in the formulation (F) used in step a) is fully hydrogenated, functionalized with hydroxyl groups and has a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000 g / mol.

15. The composition (C) contained in the preparation (F) used in step a) contains, in 100% of the total weight, - 40% by weight of a poly(farnesene) polymer, fully hydrogenated and functionalized with hydroxyl groups, having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and - said mixture (M) containing 60% by weight of saturated hydrocarbons, The mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M) is 100% by weight. - 3.8% linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, 96.2% isoalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, in which 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms; 15. The process according to claim 10, wherein 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) contain 19 carbon atoms.

16. The composition (C) is used in an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), and is present in an amount of: - from 50% to 98% by weight of said aqueous phase (A), and - from 2% to 50% by weight of said fatty phase (G), The fatty phase (G) comprises, in an amount of 100% by weight: - from 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C), - 0.5% to 20% by weight of an emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M), of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type. Ｓ ), and - from 0% to 89.5% by weight of an oil or oils and / or waxes, Including, The method according to any one of claims 10 to 15, characterized in that said wax is different from said composition (C).

17. The method according to any one of claims 10 to 15, characterized in that the composition (C) is used in the cosmetic preparation (F) and comprises from 1% to 10% by weight, more specifically from 2% to 5% by weight, in 100% of the total weight.

18. A method for shaping hair, comprising the following successive steps: a step d) of applying to dry or wet hair a cosmetic preparation (F) comprising from 0.2% to 40% by weight of composition (C), with the composition being present in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 40% by weight, relative to 100% of the total weight of the hair, The composition (C) is, in an amount of 100% by total weight, - 10 to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight of ≧10,000 g / mol and ≦120,000 g / mol, which is partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and - from 10% to 90% by weight of a mixture of hydrocarbons (M), in which at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons contain from 15 to 19 carbon atoms; - at the end of step d), an optional step e), leaving the hair at room temperature for 5 to 60 minutes, then - a step f) at the end of step d) or optionally at the end of step e), of shaping said hair using a heating tool such as a straightening iron or curling tongs; The method according to claim 1, further comprising:

19. The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) used in step d) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, which, in 100% of the total weight, - from 15% to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes); - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - 4% to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) 20. The method of claim 18, comprising:

20. The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) used in step d) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, which, in 100% of the total weight, - 3.8% linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, 96.2% isoalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and 20. The method according to claim 19, characterized in that 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) contain 19 carbon atoms.

21. 21. The method according to any one of claims 18 to 20, characterized in that the poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) comprised in the formulation (F) used in step d) has a number average molecular weight of ≥ 20,000 g / mol to ≤ 90,000 g / mol, in particular ≥ 40,000 g / mol to ≤ 80,000 g / mol.

22. 22. The method according to claim 21, wherein the poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) comprised in the formulation (F) used in step d) is fully hydrogenated, functionalized with hydroxyl groups and has a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000 g / mol.

23. The composition (C) contained in the preparation (F) used in step a) contains, in 100% of the total weight, - 40% by weight of a poly(farnesene) polymer, fully hydrogenated and functionalized with hydroxyl groups, having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and - 60% by weight of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), The mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M) is 100% by weight. - 3.8% linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, 96.2% isoalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, where 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms; 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms; 23. The method according to any one of claims 18 to 22, characterized in that 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) contain 19 carbon atoms.

24. The composition (C) is used in an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), and is present in an amount of: - from 50% to 98% by weight of said aqueous phase (A), and - from 2% to 50% by weight of said fatty phase (G), Including, The fatty phase (G) comprises, in an amount of 100% by weight: - from 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C), - 0.5% to 20% by weight of an emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M), of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type. Ｓ ), and - from 0% to 89.5% by weight of an oil or oils and / or waxes, Including, The method according to any one of claims 18 to 23, characterized in that said wax is different from said composition (C).

25. The method according to any one of claims 18 to 23, characterized in that the composition (C) is used in the cosmetic preparation (F) and comprises from 1% to 10% by weight, more specifically from 2% to 5% by weight, in 100% of the total weight.

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