Cosmetic composition for caring for keratinous materials - Patent Application 20070122999

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one hydroxyl-containing acid selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxyl acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof; (ii) at least one short-chain surfactant, each lipophilic chain of which contains 14 or fewer carbon atoms; (iii) at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms; (iv) at least one non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactant; The present invention relates to a composition comprising:

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] Technical Field The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for caring for keratinous materials, in particular cosmetic compositions comprising a keratolytic agent. [Background technology]

[0002] Background technology Skin renewal can be stimulated by removing the outer stratum corneum. Such removal can be performed mechanically or chemically. Chemical peels use keratolytic agents that interact with the complex structure of the skin, removing the outer layers (the stratum corneum for superficial peels, and sometimes the dermis for medium and deep peels) to induce controlled damage to the skin and stimulate skin renewal. Renewed skin is smoother and appears younger.

[0003] "Keratolytic agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that has the effect of eliminating dead cells of the stratum corneum, for example, by stimulating the breakdown of corneodesmosin or stimulating epidermal renewal (including by stimulating epidermal proliferation). Many current cosmetic products contain such keratolytic agents to loosen and remove the user's stratum corneum.

[0004] However, keratolytic agents can lead to instability in cosmetic compositions containing them, particularly cosmetic compositions containing relatively large amounts of keratolytic agents. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0005] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention aims to develop novel cosmetic compositions containing at least one keratolytic agent, which remain stable at room temperature or elevated temperatures, such as about 45°C, and do not exhibit a soaping effect, even when the amount of keratolytic agent reaches about 5 wt.% or more based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [Means for solving the problem]

[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: at least one hydroxyl-containing acid; - at least one short-chain surfactant, - at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms; - at least one non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than said short-chain surfactant; The present invention relates to a composition comprising:

[0007] The hydroxyl-containing acid is selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxyl acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof. The expression "precursors thereof" means that the hydroxyl-containing acid can be selected from the respective precursors of α-hydroxyl acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, and salicylic acid.

[0008] Preferably, the α-hydroxyl acid is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, or 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0009] In one embodiment, the composition may include a relatively large amount of hydroxyl-containing acid, for example, an amount of 5 wt.% or more, or even an amount of 10 wt.% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0010] In one embodiment, short chain surfactant refers to a surfactant whose each lipophilic chain contains 14 or fewer carbon atoms.

[0011] In one embodiment, the fatty alcohol is selected from saturated fatty alcohols having the formula R1-OH, where the R1 group is a linear or branched alkyl, preferably a linear alkyl having at least 20 carbon atoms.

[0012] Preferably, the composition comprises a thickening or gelling agent in an amount of about 0.5 wt% or less, based on the total weight of the composition, and / or does not comprise a fatty alcohol having fewer than 20 carbon atoms.

[0013] The short-chain surfactants are preferably selected from polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides, optionally oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol or polyglycerol, oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers, amino acid derivatives, betaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0014] The non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactant may be selected from glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose, oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, alkyl polyglucosides, phospholipids, quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one hydrocarbyl having 16 or more carbon atoms, amino acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0015] The composition may also include at least one emollient, preferably selected from non-polar and / or polar emollients, which may be present in an amount of about 5 wt.%, or even greater, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0016] Preferably, the polar emollient is selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, dibutyl adipate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0017] Preferably, the non-polar softener is C 15~19 It is selected from the group consisting of alkanes, isohexadecane, isododecane, diethylhexylcyclohexane, and mixtures thereof.

[0018] In one embodiment, the composition further comprises water, wherein the water is present in an amount ranging from about 20 wt.% to about 90 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The present invention further relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising a keratolytic system, a liquid crystal system and at least one emollient, wherein the keratolytic system comprises at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, at least one short-chain surfactant, or a mixture thereof, and the liquid crystal system comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms and at least one non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactants, and wherein the hydroxyl-containing acid, the short-chain surfactant, the fatty alcohol having 20 or more carbon atoms, the non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactants, and the emollient are as defined above.

[0020] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a liquid crystal system for improving the stability of a composition comprising a keratolytic system and optionally at least one emollient, wherein the keratolytic system comprises at least one hydroxyl-containing acid and at least one short-chain surfactant, and the liquid crystal system comprises, consists essentially of, or further consists of at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms and at least one non-fatty alcohol other than the short-chain surfactants.

[0021] In one embodiment, the composition comprises a thickening or gelling agent in an amount of about 0.5 wt % or less, based on the total weight of the composition, and / or does not comprise a fatty alcohol having fewer than 20 carbon atoms.

[0022] In one embodiment, the composition can include a relatively large amount of a hydroxyl-containing acid, for example, in an amount of about 5 wt.% or more, or even about 10 wt.% or more, based on the total weight of the composition, and / or the composition can include a relatively large amount of an emollient, for example, in an amount of about 5 wt.% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0023] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent from a reading of the following detailed description and examples. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0024] Detailed Description of the Invention In the following description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within the range, particularly in expressions such as "between" and "ranging from."

[0025] The articles "a" and "an" are used herein to mean one or more when applied to any feature of the embodiments of the invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, as used in this description, the phrase "at least one" is equivalent to the phrase "one or more."

[0026] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" is to be construed as encompassing all specifically mentioned features, plus optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which there is substantially no feature, or even no feature other than the specifically mentioned feature (e.g., "consisting essentially of" and "consisting of"). When "consisting essentially of," any additional compositions, materials, and / or components that materially affect the basic and novel characteristics are excluded from such embodiments, but any compositions, materials, and / or components that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics can be included in the embodiments.

[0027] The term "about" used in reference to a particular value is intended to represent a range of ±5% of the value. As an example, the phrase "about 100" represents a range of 100 ±5, i.e., a range of 95 to 105. In general, when the term "about" is used, similar results or effects according to the present disclosure can be expected to be obtained within ±5% of the stated value.

[0028] As used herein, the term "keratinous material" is understood to mean skin, nails, or mucous membranes, and in at least one embodiment refers to skin.

[0029] Keratolytic system The compositions of the present invention may comprise at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, at least one short-chain surfactant, or a mixture thereof.

[0030] Hydroxyl-containing acids The compositions of the present invention include at least one hydroxyl-containing acid.

[0031] According to the present invention, the hydroxyl-containing acid may in particular be an α-hydroxyl acid. The term "α-hydroxyl acid" is understood to mean a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl function occupying the α-position in said acid (the carbon adjacent to the carboxylic acid function). This acid is preferably present in the final composition in the form of a free acid.

[0032] Examples of α-hydroxyl acids include citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof. Mixtures of these acids can also be used.

[0033] In one embodiment, the α-hydroxyl acid is preferably a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, or 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0034] In one embodiment, the α-hydroxyl acid is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0035] Examples of hydroxyl-containing acids include, but are not limited to, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, tartaric acid, and salicylic acid.

[0036] In one embodiment, a hydroxyl-containing acid precursor can also be used for the present composition. According to the present invention, the term "precursor" refers to a substance that can be converted into a hydroxyl-containing acid useful in the present invention, for example, through hydrolysis. An example of such a precursor is gluconolactone. For the purposes of the present invention, such precursors can be considered to belong to the concept of "hydroxyl-containing acid," especially considering that the composition according to the present invention is aqueous.

[0037] Examples of hydroxyl-containing acid precursors can be selected from lactone precursors, including, but not limited to, erythronolactone, threolactone, ribonolactone, arabinolactone, xyloslactone, lyxoslactone, allolactone, altrolacone, gluconolactone, mannolactone, gulonolactone, idolactone, galactonolactone, talolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] In one embodiment, the keratolytic system comprises one or more alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid, salicylic acid, one or more hydroxyl-containing acid precursors, such as gluconolactone, or mixtures thereof.

[0039] According to the present invention, the hydroxyl-containing acid is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt.% to about 30 wt.%, from about 1 wt.% to about 25 wt.%, from about 2 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, or from about 5 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, for example, from about 8 wt.% to about 12 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Short-chain surfactants Conventionally, some hydroxyl-containing acids can function as keratolytic agents, such as those mentioned above. Surprisingly, the present inventors have discovered that some short-chain surfactants can also act as keratolytic agents.

[0041] The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one short chain surfactant.

[0042] According to the present invention, the term "short-chain surfactant" refers to a surfactant whose lipophilic chain contains 14 or fewer carbon atoms. According to the present invention, the short-chain surfactants may be included in the composition as a mixture, wherein the mixture comprises at least about 40 wt.%, at least about 50 wt.%, or even at least about 60 wt.% of one or more of said short-chain surfactants, for example two or three of said short-chain surfactants, based on the total weight of the mixture.

[0043] Furthermore, the short chain surfactant is preferably selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from nonionic surfactants.

[0044] Examples of anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, amino acid derivatives such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl methyl taurate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium caproyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl alanine, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Examples of amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to, betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, (capryl / capramido)propyl betaine, cocobetaine, and mixtures thereof, and amphodiacetates such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

[0046] The non-ionic surfactants are preferably selected from PEG / PG-derived short-chain surfactants. According to the present invention, the term "PEG / PG-derived short-chain surfactants" means surfactants derived from polyethylene glycol and / or polyglycerol, each lipophilic chain of which contains 14 or fewer carbon atoms.

[0047] Non-limiting examples of PEG / PG derived short chain surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides, optionally oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol or polyglycerol, oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers, or mixtures thereof.

[0048] The polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides are preferably polyethylene glycol derivatives of mixtures of mono-, di-, and triglycerides of caprylic and capric acid (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, even more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units), such as PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride and PEG-7 caprylic / capric glyceride.

[0049] In the context of the present invention, mention may also be made of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular polyoxyethylenated derivatives of glyceryl esters of fatty acids, and their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen, for example, from hydrogenated and / or oxyethylenated glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate, for example PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] In one embodiment, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is selected from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 10, glycerol units, polyglyceryl monomyristate comprising 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 10, glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 10, glycerol units, polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 10, glycerol units, polyglyceryl monocaprylate comprising 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 10, glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Examples of fatty acid esters of polyglycerol include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylic / capric acid, polyglyceryl-10 caprylic / capric acid, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, and polyglyceryl-10 cocoate.

[0052] The oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene or propylene oxide (EO / PO) units ranging from 2 to 40. Mention may also be made of PEG-4 lauryl ether, PEG-9 lauryl ether and PEG-23 lauryl ether.

[0053] Preferably, the PEG / PG derived short chain surfactant is selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, such as polyglyceryl-5 laurate, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol, such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides, such as PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride, or mixtures thereof.

[0054] According to the present invention, the short-chain surfactant is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, preferably from about 0.5 wt.% to about 10 wt.%, or from about 1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Preferably, the keratolytic system comprises both a hydroxyl-containing acid and a PEG / PG-derived short-chain surfactant as defined above. In one embodiment, the keratolytic system comprises one or more of glycolic acid, lactic acid, gluconolactone, and salicylic acid, and one or more fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, such as polyglyceryl-5 laurate, oxyethylated fatty acid esters of glycerol, such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and polyoxyethylated alkyl glycerides, such as PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride.

[0056] According to the present invention, the keratolytic system is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt.% to about 45 wt.%, preferably from about 1 wt.% to about 30 wt.%, or from about 2 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Liquid crystal The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise a liquid crystal system, which comprises at least two fatty alcohols and at least one primary surfactant different from the short-chain surfactants described above.

[0058] fatty alcohols The compositions of the present invention comprise at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms.

[0059] The fatty alcohol has the formula (I): R1-OH (I) wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl having at least 20 carbon atoms. The saturated fatty alcohol may be:

[0060] Preferably, in formula (I), the R1 group is a linear or branched alkyl having 20 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 20 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0061] As examples of saturated fatty alcohols of formula (I), mention may be made of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), seryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol) and myricylic alcohol (1-triacontanol).

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of saturated fatty alcohols of formula (I) having 20 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0063] An example of a saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) useful in the compositions according to the invention is the commercial product Nafol 1822 C from Condea. Nafol 1822 C is referred to as behenyl alcohol and contains mainly C 22 It is defined as a mixture of fatty alcohols containing the alcohol n-docosanol. Another commercially available product that can be used in the compositions of the present invention is Lannet 22 from COGNIS (BASF), which contains behenyl alcohol, and Lanette 22 from BASF. Another representative mixture of fatty alcohols is a 98% C hydroxybenzoate sold by Condea under the name Nafol 2298. 22 Products containing alcohol and SASOL's NAFOL 2022 brand name 20~22 It's alcohol.

[0064] In one embodiment, the fatty alcohol is selected from saturated fatty alcohols of formula (I), where R1 is a linear alkyl chain having from 20 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0065] According to the present invention, the fatty alcohol having 20 or more carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1 wt.% to about 10 wt.%, preferably from about 0.5 wt.% to about 8 wt.%, or from about 1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Main Surfactant The composition of the present invention comprises as a primary surfactant at least one non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactants defined above. The expression "non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactants" means a surfactant that is not a fatty alcohol and is different from the short-chain surfactants defined above.

[0067] The non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactant is preferably selected from a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture thereof, and more preferably selected from a non-ionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture thereof.

[0068] Examples of anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, amino acid derivatives such as sodium stearoyl methyl taurate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium oleoyl methyl taurate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Examples of cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to, quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one hydrocarbyl having 16 or more carbon atoms, such as stearimmonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidotrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include esters of polyols and fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated chains, for example those containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as C8-C 24 Glyceryl esters of fatty acids, C8-C 24 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, C8-C 24 Sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkyl glucose) esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, C8-C 24 Sugar ethers of fatty alcohols, as well as mixtures thereof, are included.

[0071] Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may be mentioned in particular include glyceryl stearate (monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may be mentioned in particular include polyethylene glycol stearates (polyethylene glycol mono-, distearate and / or tri-stearates), in particular polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 OE (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 OE (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate sold by Uniqema under the name Arlacel 165, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate) and potassium stearate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Tegin (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate SE).

[0074] Fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose that may be mentioned in particular are glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearate, for example methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate, for example methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate, fatty esters of methyl glucoside, in particular the diester of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed ester of methyl glucoside and an oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate); the ester of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); the mixture of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate), in particular Glucate SS, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0075] Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose that may be mentioned include oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of a diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as the product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucam E-20 distearate, polyethylene glycol ethers of a mixture of mono- and diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular the product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucamate SSE-20, and the product sold by Goldschmidt under the name Grillocose PSE-20, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

[0077] Sugar ethers that may be mentioned in particular are alkylpolyglucosides, such as decyl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylic / capric glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by the company SEPPIC or the product sold under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF; lauryl glucoside, for example the products sold under the name Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by the company Henkel; cocoglucosides, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 / UP by the company Henkel; cetostearyl glycoside, optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, for example Montanov 68 by SEPPIC, Tego-Care CG90 by Goldschmidt and Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel; arachidyl glucosides, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov 202; cocoyl ethyl glucosides, for example in the form of a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (35 / 65), sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov 82; and mixtures thereof.

[0078] As examples of amphoteric surfactants, mention may be made, but is not limited to, phospholipids, such as phosphatidic acid (phosphatidate), phosphatidylethanolamine (cephalin), phosphatidylcholine (lecithin of any origin (soybean, sunflower or marine)), hydrogenated lecithin, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol phosphate, phosphatidylinositol bisphosphate, phosphatidylinositol triphosphate, ceramide phosphorylcholine (sphingomyelin), ceramide phosphorylethanolamine (sphingomyelin), ceramide phosphorylglycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Other surfactants that may serve as primary surfactants include sorbitan monoesters such as sorbitan stearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan laurate, cholesterol, lanolin, and phytosterols.

[0080] Preferably, the non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short chain surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture thereof.

[0081] Preferably, the non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose, oxyethylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, alkyl polyglucosides, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably alkyl polyglucosides, phospholipids, or mixtures thereof, more preferably decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, hydrogenated lecithin, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] According to the present invention, the non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactant is present in an amount ranging from about 0.05 wt.% to about 10 wt.%, preferably from about 0.08 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, or from about 0.1 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0083] Softener The compositions of the present invention may include at least one emollient, which may be a polar emollient and / or a non-polar emollient.

[0084] As used herein, the term "polar emollient" means any emollient having at least one polar moiety. The emollient may be one or both of a high polarity and a medium polarity oil-soluble emollient.

[0085] Non-limiting examples of polar emollients include, but are not limited to, esters, polyol esters, and polyol ethers, such as linear or branched polyglycerol esters and polyglycerol ethers. For example, polar emollients include caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, PPG-3 myristyl ether, isopropyl palmitate, dibutyl adipate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, C 12~15 It may be selected from alkyl benzoates, phenethyl benzoates, and mixtures thereof.Other examples of emollients include oil-soluble emollients with high or medium polarity moieties.

[0086] The emollient may be a non-polar oil-soluble emollient. The term "non-polar emollient" means any emollient that does not have a constant electric moment.

[0087] Non-limiting examples of non-polar emollients include, but are not limited to, non-polar hydrocarbons, such as linear or branched hydrocarbons. For example, emollients can be paraffins, isoparaffins, mineral oils, C 15~19 The non-polar softener may be selected from alkanes, isohexadecane, isododecane, diethylhexylcyclohexane, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the non-polar softener may be selected from isododecane, C 15~19 It is selected from alkanes and mixtures thereof.

[0088] According to the present invention, the emollient is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, preferably from about 1 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, or from about 5 wt.% to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0089] solvent Generally, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one solvent. The solvent of the compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds (at room temperature of 20-25°C), such as a C2-C8 lower polyol, monoalcohol, or polyol ether (especially containing 3-16 carbon atoms). The solvent of the compositions of the present invention may comprise water or consist essentially of water.

[0090] The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e., glycerin), and polyethylene glycol.

[0091] The monoalcohol may be selected from ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.

[0092] The polyol ether may be selected from mono-, di-, or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-, or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.

[0093] Advantageously, the solvent is present in an amount ranging from about 20 wt.% to about 90 wt.%, preferably from about 30 wt.% to about 85 wt.%, or from about 40 wt.% to about 80 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Other ingredients The compositions according to the invention may also contain other ingredients previously known elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, such as cosmetic active ingredients, thickening or gelling agents, sequestering agents, preservatives, fragrances, etc.

[0095] In particular, the cosmetic active agent may be at least one hydrophilic active agent. The term "hydrophilic active agent" means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent that has the ability to form hydrogen bonds.

[0096] Examples that may be mentioned as hydrophilic active agents include moisturizers, depigmenting agents, humectants, anti-ageing agents, mattifying agents, anti-scarring agents, anti-bacterial agents and mixtures thereof.

[0097] The hydrophilic active agent may in particular be chosen from: Vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (for example tocopherol acetate), and ascorbic acid or its derivatives, - wetting agents, - C-glycoside compounds, preferably hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, - antioxidant compounds, anti-aging active agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds, in particular 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), adenosine, C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid, and - A mixture of them.

[0098] Advantageously, the hydrophilic active agent is present in an amount ranging from 0 wt.% to about 40 wt.%, for example from about 10 wt.% to about 30 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Advantageously, the thickening or gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from about 0 wt.% to about 0.5 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] composition As is understood in the art, it is difficult to stabilize compositions containing short chain surfactants and relatively large amounts of hydroxyl-containing acids.

[0101] Using the liquid crystal system described above, compositions further comprising a short-chain surfactant and a relatively large amount of a hydroxyl-containing acid can achieve good stability even at high temperatures, for example, about 45°C.

[0102] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may comprise one or more fatty alcohols having fewer than 20 carbon atoms. Preferably, the composition of the present invention does not comprise a fatty alcohol having fewer than 20 carbon atoms.

[0103] In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the fatty alcohol plus the primary surfactant to the emollient is about 10 or greater, preferably about 15 or greater, or about 18 or greater, such as about 18.7% or greater.

[0104] In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the primary surfactant to the fatty alcohol is about 1 / 10 or greater, preferably about 1 / 8 or greater, or about 1 / 6 or greater.

[0105] By using a particular ratio, the compositions of the present invention achieve improved stability and good skin feel, eg, no soaping when applied to the skin.

[0106] Methods and Uses According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, by applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous materials.

[0107] In one embodiment, the method comprises the following steps, in order: cleansing the skin, wiping the skin, and applying a composition according to the present invention to the skin, and optionally massaging the skin for about 2 seconds to about 40 seconds.

[0108] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a liquid crystal system to improve the stability of a composition comprising a keratolytic system and optionally at least one emollient.

[0109] In one embodiment, the keratolytic system comprises at least one hydroxyl-containing acid and at least one short-chain surfactant, and the liquid crystal system comprises, consists essentially of, or further consists of at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms and at least one non-fatty alcohol other than the short-chain surfactant.

[0110] The invention will now be illustrated in more detail by the examples set forth below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustration. [Example]

[0111] Example The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0112] [Table 1]

[0113] (Examples 1 to 2 of the present invention and Comparative Examples 1 to 3) The compositions according to formulations Ex. 1-2 of the present invention and comparative formulations CE. 1-3 were prepared primarily using the components listed in Table 2 (contents expressed as mass percentages of the components relative to the total mass of each composition, unless otherwise indicated).

[0114] [Table 2]

[0115] Preparation procedure: The compositions were prepared as follows: 1) Add water, alcohol, and surfactants to the main kettle and heat the mixture to 80°C. 2) Gradually add the softener to the main kettle while homogenizing vigorously. 3) After homogenizing for 5 minutes, the mixture is cooled to maintain homogeneity. 4) When the temperature drops to 45°C, reduce the homogenization. 5) Add other ingredients, if present, cool the mixture to 30°C and set aside.

[0116] Shaking stability test The stability properties were evaluated according to the following methods: 1) Add the composition to a 60 ml glass stability bottle; 2) Place the bottles in ovens at 4°C, 37°C, and 45°C for two months each. 3) After two months, evaluate the appearance, color, and odor of the composition.

[0117] Soaping effect A normal amount of the composition was applied to the back of the user's hand and the user was checked for any white marks that appeared during application; no or slight white marks were considered acceptable, otherwise they were considered unacceptable.

[0118] [Table 3]

[0119] The data in Table 3 show that at relatively high amounts of each keratolytic agent, only compositions containing at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms and a primary surfactant achieved the desired stability.

[0120] In contrast, as shown by the effect of Comparative Example 3, even a composition containing one fatty alcohol having 20 or more carbon atoms and one fatty alcohol having less than 20 carbon atoms cannot achieve the desired stability.

[0121] Furthermore, only the composition containing at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms and a main surfactant can achieve a better skin feel, such as no soaping.However, the composition containing only one fatty alcohol having 20 or more carbon atoms or the composition not containing any fatty alcohol having 20 or more carbon atoms cannot achieve the desired skin feel because these compositions cause soaping when applied to the skin.

Claims

1. A composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one hydroxyl-containing acid selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxyl acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof; (ii) at least one short-chain surfactant, each lipophilic chain of which contains 14 or fewer carbon atoms; (iii) at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms; (iv) at least one non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactant; A composition comprising:

2. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the alpha-hydroxyl acid is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, or 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

3. 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydroxyl-containing acid is selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and mixtures thereof.

4. The fatty alcohol has the formula (I): R1-OH (I) wherein the R1 group is a linear or branched alkyl, preferably a linear alkyl, having at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably 20 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 20 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of:

5. 5. The composition of claim 1, which does not contain a fatty alcohol having fewer than 20 carbon atoms.

6. 6. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the short-chain surfactant is at least one PEG / PG-derived short-chain surfactant, which is derived from polyethylene glycol and / or polyglycerol, each lipophilic chain of which contains 14 or fewer carbon atoms.

7. 7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the short-chain surfactant is selected from polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides, optionally oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol or polyglycerol, oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glyceride, and mixtures thereof.

8. 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose, oxyethylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, alkyl polyglucosides, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, hydrogenated lecithin, and mixtures thereof.

9. and / or the non-polar emollient is selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, dibutyl adipate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof; and / or the non-polar emollient is selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, dibutyl adipate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. 15～19 9. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the alkane is selected from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isododecane, diethylhexylcyclohexane, and mixtures thereof.

10. 10. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the hydroxyl-containing acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt.% to 30 wt.%, from 1 wt.% to 25 wt.%, from 2 wt.% to 20 wt.%, or from 5 wt.% to 15 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the short-chain surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 15 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 10 wt.%, or from 1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 8 wt.%, or from 1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. 13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.08 wt.% to 5 wt.%, or from 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. 14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the emollient is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, preferably from 1 wt.% to 15 wt.%, or from 5 wt.% to 10 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: (a) (a1) at least one hydroxyl-containing acid selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxyl acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3; (a2) at least one PEG / PG derived short chain surfactant as defined in claim 6 or 7; a keratolytic system comprising (b) (b1) at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms as defined in claim 1 or 4; (b2) at least one non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactant as defined in claim 1 or 8; a liquid crystal system comprising, consisting essentially of, or additionally consisting of (c) optionally, at least one softening agent Including, does not contain fatty alcohols having less than 20 carbon atoms, composition.

16. 16. The composition of claim 15, wherein the hydroxyl-containing acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. % to 20 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. % to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or the PEG / PG-derived short-chain surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. % to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. % to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or the emollients, including both non-polar and polar emollients, are present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. % to 20 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. % to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. 8. Use of a liquid crystal system to improve the stability of a composition comprising a keratolytic system and optionally an emollient, wherein the keratolytic system comprises at least one hydroxyl-containing acid selected from the group consisting of alpha-hydroxyl acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, precursors thereof, and mixtures thereof, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, and at least one PEG / PG-derived short-chain surfactant as defined in claim 6 or 7, The liquid crystal system comprises, consists essentially of, or further consists of at least two fatty alcohols having 20 or more carbon atoms, as defined in claim 1 or 4, and at least one non-fatty alcohol surfactant other than the short-chain surfactant, as defined in claim 1 or 7. use.

18. 18. The use according to claim 17, wherein the hydroxyl-containing acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt.% to 20 wt.%, preferably from 5 wt.% to 15 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or the emollients, including both non-polar and polar emollients, are present in an amount ranging from 1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, preferably from 5 wt.% to 10 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Images