Stable suspension-like cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin and / or hair care and / or hygiene. The composition contains a surfactant mixture including at least one anionic surfactant selected from alanine salts, lauryl glucoside, and at least one amphoteric surfactant, as well as water, a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum, and insoluble particles stably suspended in the composition. Furthermore, the composition does not contain amidopropyl betaine or a surfactant containing a sulfate group.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising particles in stable suspension and free of controversial substances, and to the cosmetic use of such compositions for cleansing and / or caring for skin and / or hair. The present invention also relates to cosmetic treatment methods for the hygiene and / or care of skin and / or hair using such compositions. [Background technology]

[0002] Cosmetic compositions intended for the cleansing and / or care of the skin and / or hair must first be effective, i.e. cleansing, foaming and, in some cases, detangling. Indeed, the main expectation of consumers is to obtain a product that foams well and, in the case of shampoos, has a detangling effect on the hair.

[0003] The addition of insoluble particles to cosmetic compositions is also common. These particles can have a variety of functions. Some can contain active agents, especially millicapsules. Others, like pearlescent bases, opacify the composition and enhance the visual appeal of the cosmetic. Furthermore, some particles have exfoliating properties and are useful for scrubbing the skin, especially the scalp. Cosmetic compositions containing exfoliating particles allow for the effective removal of dead skin cells, product residue, and excess sebum from the skin surface. They are ideal for relieving dandruff and itching on the scalp and strengthening hair roots.

[0004] Regardless of the function of insoluble particles, stably and uniformly suspending them in a composition is an essential condition for obtaining a cosmetic composition that is easy to use and visually appealing, as desired by consumers. However, obtaining a cosmetic composition in which insoluble particles are uniformly and stably suspended (known as a "smooth" cosmetic composition) is difficult because these particles tend not to remain in suspension but to deposit at the bottom of the container containing the cosmetic composition, and in particular, the suspension stabilization of insoluble particles must be achieved without impairing the cleaning power and foaming power of the composition.

[0005] Furthermore, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition needs to be adapted to the desired packaging and dispensing method by selecting suitable components. Cosmetic compositions can be packaged in tubes or pump bottles, but this results in limitations in terms of viscosity, for example, excessively thick formulations are not "pumpable". Also, excessively fluid formulations tend to slip off the user's hands, which is undesirable as it does not match the sensory properties required for hygiene products.

[0006] Finally, as consumers are becoming increasingly vigilant regarding the composition of their cosmetics, it is highly desirable that cosmetic compositions contain as few controversial substances as possible, and preferably none at all, i.e., consumers want products that contain as few chemically synthesized ingredients as possible, preferring more environmentally friendly ingredients of natural origin that are more tolerable and compatible with the skin.

[0007] In this regard, many of the cosmetic compositions proposed in the prior art for application to the body and hair contain sulfated surfactants. These surfactants reliably produce a particularly interesting foaming effect and give the impression of gentle cleansing. However, in reality, they are very irritating to the skin, causing dryness and allergies. Similarly, the presence of certain amphoteric surfactants, such as amidopropyl betaine and especially cocamidopropyl betaine, is suspected to be the cause of some intolerances, including skin irritation. Therefore, to increase skin tolerance, these ingredients must be used in low concentrations, but this still poses risks, especially when targeting consumers with sensitive skin. Therefore, it is desirable to completely avoid these ingredients. The use of acrylate-based suspending agents, such as Carbopol® 1382 (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), proposed in the prior art, has also been criticized. In fact, these acrylates can cause some allergic skin reactions, rhinoconjunctivitis, and even asthma.

[0008] Non-Patent Document 1 describes an exfoliating shower scrub composition based on exfoliating apricot kernel powder, containing water, a surfactant mixture, and the brand Arbalon® R-50. The surfactant mixture consists of sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine, and coco glucoside (INCI name).

[0009] Non-Patent Document 2 describes a shampoo composition containing water, a surfactant mixture, and the brand name Arbalon® R-50 as a rheology modifier. The surfactant mixture consists of disodium cocamphodiacetate and cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (INCI name). This composition does not contain insoluble molecules.

[0010] Non-Patent Document 3 describes a shampoo composition based on insoluble glycol distearate particles. The composition contains water, a surfactant mixture, and the brand name Arbalon® R-50. The surfactant mixture consists of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine, and lauryl glucoside (INCI name).

[0011] Non-Patent Document 4 is a technical data sheet for the commercially available trademarked product Arbalon® R-50, which generally indicates that this trademarked product can be used to impart substantial yield stress to cosmetic formulations of shower gels and shampoos, and to suspend insoluble particles.

[0012] Patent Document 1 describes a hair washing composition containing a surfactant mixture in water, the surfactant mixture including at least one alkyl polyglucoside, a compound containing a betaine group, and at least one acyl amino acid. The composition does not contain insoluble particles. The introduction of this document explains that it is desirable for the composition to be free of materials such as cellulose and its derivatives. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0013] [Patent Document 1] US Patent Application Publication No. 2013 / 143784 [Non-patent literature]

[0014] [Non-Patent Document 1] "Mild and Natural Shower Scrub" (Anonymous, November 25, 2019, available with a user account at: https: / / www.ulprospector.com / documents / 1599626.pdf?bs=77&b=1461460&st=20&r=eu&ind=personalcare) [Non-patent document 2] "Moisturizing Flaky-Free Scalp Shampoo" (Anonymous, January 27, 2022, available with a user account at: https: / / www.ulprospector.com / documents / 1625184.pdf?bs=77&b=5268232&st=20&r=eu&ind=personalcare) [Non-patent document 3] "SPA & Salon at Home Creamy Shampoo" (Anonymous, October 22, 2021, available with a user account at: https: / / www.ulprospector.com / documents / 1625185.pdf?bs=77&b=5268233&st=20&r=eu&ind=personalcare) [Non-patent document 4] "Arbalon™ R-50 cellulose liquid" (Anonymous, October 27, 2021, available with a user account at: https: / / www.ulprospector.com / documents / 1598326.pdf?bs=77&b=1423123&st=20&r=eu&ind=personalcare) Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0015] In cosmetic compositions for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair, it is a real challenge to stably suspend insoluble particles without adversely affecting the efficacy or the final viscosity of the composition, and without altering the natural appearance of the formulation. None of the cosmetic compositions proposed in the prior art so far satisfactorily meets this need.

[0016] The present invention aims to overcome the drawbacks of such cosmetic compositions of the prior art and to provide a fluid cosmetic composition with a smooth appearance containing insoluble particles stably maintained in a suspended state, which has good cleansing effect and high foaming power, but does not contain any ingredients that are harmful to the skin, such as irritating ingredients, and is gentle on the epidermis, thereby minimizing the risk of skin intolerance.

[0017] It is a further object of the present invention that the composition contain as few non-naturally occurring ingredients as possible, preferably be free of such ingredients, have a physiological pH, and be suitable for use on all skin types, including sensitive and atopic skin.

[0018] More generally, the present invention aims to have the composition contain as few ingredients as possible.

[0019] Another object of the present invention is that the composition have sufficient viscosity so that it will not slip out of the user's hand when handled and can be packaged in various types of packaging and dispensing devices, such as tubes and pump bottles. [Means for solving the problem]

[0020] The inventors have discovered that these objectives can be achieved by a fluid cosmetic composition comprising insoluble particles, a specific combination of surfactants, and a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum in an acceptable aqueous cosmetic base, which mixture makes it possible to effectively and sustainably maintain the particles in a uniformly suspended state in the base.

[0021] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a cosmetic composition particularly suitable for topical application, in particular to the skin and hair, which composition comprises: surfactant mixtures, including, in particular consisting of: a / at least one anionic surfactant selected from alanine salts b / as non-ionic surfactant(s), lauryl glucoside optionally mixed with at least one other non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides, the alkyl group of which contains from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; c / At least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine - mixtures of cellulose and cellulose gums in a content strictly greater than 0.05% by weight and not exceeding 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - Insoluble particles stably suspended in the composition - and water. Furthermore, the composition is free of amphoteric surfactants of the amidopropyl betaine class and surfactants containing at least one sulfate group.

[0022] More preferably, the composition contains a maximum of 0.5% by weight of gum(s) other than cellulose gums, relative to the total weight of the composition, meaning that it does not contain any gum(s) other than cellulose gums, or if it does contain one or more gums other than cellulose gums, their total concentration in the composition is 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] As used herein, the term "cosmetically acceptable" means that the material is suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells, in particular skin or hair cells. Preferably, the material has a pleasant scent, color, and feel, and does not cause unacceptable discomfort that could discourage use of the compositions according to the invention.

[0024] The term insoluble particles refers to particles that do not exhibit solubility in the base of the composition, including when mixed with other components of the composition, and therefore are in a solid form in the composition.

[0025] The term stable suspension generally means that particles do not essentially precipitate or aggregate.Therefore, in the composition of the present invention, the precipitation of the contained insoluble particles is not observed for a long period, particularly for a period equivalent to the general storage period of the composition, including a period of more than 6 months, preferably more than 12 months, more preferably more than 18 months, and preferentially 36 months.In particular, this stability can be confirmed by visual observation of the composition.Preferably, the insoluble particles are maintained in a substantially uniformly dispersed state in the composition.

[0026] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can therefore be referred to as a smooth composition, and this smooth appearance is associated with a very good stability of the suspension of the insoluble particles in the base, and is advantageously obtained by using cellulose and cellulose gums together, i.e., natural ingredients which, in addition to their suspending effect, do not adversely affect the synergistic effect of the various surfactants contained in the composition, and which, among other things, provide high foaming power and good foam quality.

[0027] Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention poses a lower risk of skin irritation than prior art cosmetic compositions.

[0028] The composition also has a good viscosity without the need for additional ingredients with a thickening effect. The term "good viscosity" as used herein refers to a viscosity that allows the composition to be dispensed in various packaging, particularly tubes and pump bottles, and prevents the composition from slipping off the user's hand when dispensed. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not contain additional ingredients with a thickening effect. Particularly preferred are those that do not contain alginate, carrageenan, starch, or gums, such as xanthan gum, diutan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglycan gum, gum arabic, carob gum, tamarind indica seed gum, or Caesalpinia spinosa gum. More preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain ethylene glycol polymers (PEG) and their derivatives, which have an adverse effect on the environment.

[0029] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention is substantially free of an oil phase. Therefore, it is neither an emulsion nor a two-phase composition, but a single-phase fluid composition. Therefore, it is particularly free of fatty acids. This means that it contains no fatty acids or contains fatty acids at a concentration of less than 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight. Similarly, it is preferably free of emulsifiers such as fatty acid monoesters of polyethylene glycol.

[0030] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least 55% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, and preferentially at least 65% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] The term "at least one" in this specification means a single compound or a mixture of several such compounds. Thus, the surfactant mixture of the composition according to the invention comprises, and preferably consists of: a / a single anionic surfactant selected from alanine salts, or a plurality of such anionic surfactants b / A single nonionic surfactant which is lauryl glucoside, or a plurality of nonionic surfactants comprising lauryl glucoside, and another or a plurality of other nonionic surfactants selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl group contains from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, this or these nonionic surfactants optionally being in admixture with one or more other nonionic surfactants, such as, for example, C8-C16 fatty alcohol glucosides, e.g., coco glucoside. c / As well as a single amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine, or multiple amphoteric surfactants different from amidopropyl betaine.

[0032] The anionic surfactant(s) selected from the alaninates may be formed with any cosmetically acceptable counterion, which is preferably sodium.

[0033] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) selected from the alaninates are preferably selected from sodium cocoyl alaninate (INCI name) and trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate (INCI name).

[0034] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain other anionic surfactants that are not alanines, for example it contains the single anionic surfactant sodium cocoyl alanine.

[0035] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition does not contain any other nonionic surfactants that are not alkylglucosides in which the alkyl group contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms, including, for example, the single nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside.

[0036] In another particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one second nonionic surfactant selected from alkylglucosides, the alkyl group of which contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably selected from the compounds with the INCI names octylglucoside and decylglucoside.

[0037] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the amphoteric surfactant(s) different from amidopropyl betaine are selected from the group consisting of sodium caproamphoacetate, sodium caproamphopropionate, sodium apriloamphoacetate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium isostearoamphoacetate, sodium isostearoamphopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium oleoamphoacetate, sodium oleoamphopropionate, sodium stearoamphoacetate, sodium stearoamphopropionate, sodium tallowamphoacetate, sodium wheatgermamphoacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caproampho ... Disodium loamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium isostearoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium isostearoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium stearoamphodiacetate, disodium tallowamphodiacetate, and disodium wheat germamphodiacetate.

[0038] Preferably, the at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine is selected from lauryl betaine, cocobetaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, which compounds can be used in the composition either alone or in mixtures thereof.

[0039] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the surfactant mixture contains a single amphoteric surfactant which is cocobetaine.

[0040] In certain embodiments of the invention, the composition does not include: any surfactant of the type containing isethionic acid or an isethionic acid group, in particular surfactants chosen from acylisethionates or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name sodium cocoylisethionate; and / or any surfactant of the type containing an N-methyl taurine or tauric acid group, in particular a surfactant chosen from N-acyltaurines or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. and / or any surfactant of the type containing sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinic acid groups, in particular surfactants selected from alkyl sulfosuccinates or their salts, such as substances with the INCI name lauryl sulfosuccinate. and / or any surfactant containing at least one sulfate group, i.e., -O-SO3H or -SO2-O- group, such as laureth sulfate or lauryl sulfate.

[0041] This advantageously reduces the presence in said composition of compounds conventionally used in cosmetic compositions for skin and hair hygiene or care, which have the drawback of being non-naturally derived, without altering the performance of the composition.

[0042] Furthermore, sulfated surfactants have particularly interesting foaming power but are very irritating to the epidermis, and therefore their absence in the compositions according to the invention advantageously reduces the risk of irritating the epidermis of the user.

[0043] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any surfactants other than one or more alanine salts, one or more alkylglucosides, the alkyl group of which contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms, including at least lauryl glucoside, and one or more amphoteric surfactants different from amidopropyl betaine.

[0044] Generally, the composition according to the present invention preferably contains as few surfactants as possible.Therefore, in a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition contains 6 or less surfactants, preferably 5 or less surfactants, more preferably 4 or less surfactants, and preferably only 3 surfactants.As mentioned above, a surfactant mixture containing a single compound of each of the three defined surfactants, that is, an anionic surfactant selected from alanine salts, a nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside, and an amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaine, can achieve high foaming power and good foam quality.This advantageously allows the number of components present in the composition to be minimized, thereby reducing production costs.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the content of the surfactant mixture in the composition is 5 to 18 wt %, preferably 6 to 16 wt %, more preferably 8 to 15 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition. This range of content allows the composition to have good foaming power, good foam quality, and good viscosity, while simultaneously reducing the production cost of the composition.

[0046] The total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from alaninates is preferably between 1.5 and 5% by weight, more preferably between 2 and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Thus, in certain embodiments of the invention in which the composition comprises a single anionic surfactant, preferably sodium cocoyl alanine, the anionic surfactant is preferably present in the composition in a content of 1.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably 2 to 4% by weight, and in particular 3 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] The total content of nonionic surfactant(s) is preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 8% by weight, in particular from 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] Thus, the total content of lauryl glucoside as the only nonionic surfactant in the composition is preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 8% by weight, especially from 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the total content of nonionic surfactants consisting of lauryl glucoside associated with at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides, the alkyl group of which contains from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, is preferably between 3 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 5 and 8% by weight, in particular between 5 and 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] The total content of said at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine is preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Thus, in a particular embodiment of the invention in which the composition contains a single amphoteric surfactant, preferably cocobetaine, the amphoteric surfactant is preferably present in the composition in a content of from 0.5 to 3% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum comprises substantially equal amounts by weight of cellulose and cellulose gum.

[0054] The cellulose and cellulose gum (also known as carboxymethylcellulose) may be of any origin, in particular of microbial and / or plant origin.

[0055] The cellulose is preferably microcrystalline, for example having the CAS number 9004-34-6.

[0056] The cellulose gum is preferably sodium carboxymethylcellulose, which has the CAS number 9004-32-4.

[0057] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum is in liquid form.

[0058] By way of example, the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum may be such as that sold under the name Arbalon® R-50, which further has the advantage of containing glycerin, a compound with emollient properties that are particularly advantageous in the field of topical cosmetic compositions.

[0059] The total content of the cellulose and cellulose gum mixture in the composition is preferably strictly greater than 0.05% by weight, in particular greater than 0.1% by weight, to 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.9% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and preferentially 0.45% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. The content of the cellulose and cellulose gum mixture in the composition is strictly greater than 0.05% by weight, to 0.5% by weight or less, preferably 0.45% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. The content of the cellulose and cellulose gum mixture in the composition may be 0.1-0.5% by weight, in particular 0.1-0.45% by weight, more preferably 0.15-0.5% by weight, in particular 0.15-0.45% by weight, and preferentially 0.15-0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the insoluble particles comprise pearlescent agents, exfoliating particles, and / or millicapsules.

[0061] Pearlescent agents are ingredients commonly used in cosmetic formulations as agents that impart a pearly appearance to the formulated composition. In this regard, mention may be made of glycol distearate or ethylene glycol distearate.

[0062] "Exfoliating particles" or "scrubbing particles" refer specifically to solid abrasive particles contained in a cosmetic composition that, when massaged onto the skin, can mechanically remove dead cells from the surface layer of the epidermis (also known as scrubbing). Generally, scrubbing of the skin is typically performed by applying a composition containing exfoliating particles to the skin, massaging the skin covered with the composition, and then rinsing the composition. In this process, the exfoliating particles act by rubbing against the skin, which smooths the skin and promotes cell renewal.

[0063] In accordance with the present invention, the exfoliating particles preferably have a median diameter of 10 to 1500 μm, more preferably 50 to 1000 μm, and even more preferably 200 to 500 μm, for example, 250 to 450 μm. The "median diameter" of the exfoliating particles herein refers to the volume median diameter. The median diameter of the exfoliating particles can be measured by static light scattering using a Mastersizer series particle size analyzer.

[0064] According to the invention, the following can be used as exfoliating particles: - Exfoliating particles derived from minerals such as sand, rock, perlite, or clay - Exfoliating particles derived from plants such as grains, leaves, stems, algae, bark, nuts, or roots - and / or exfoliating particles of organic origin, such as polyethylene beads or wax beads.

[0065] For example, polyethylene beads or powder, perlite beads or powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice stone (INCI name: Pumice), crushed apricot kernels or fruit kernel shells such as walnut shells, sawdust, wood flour, cork powder, glass beads, alumina (aluminum oxide), sugar crystals (sucrose), etc., or mixtures thereof can be used.

[0066] As used herein, the term millicapsule generally refers to a substantially spherical entity of millimeter size, typically 10-2000 μm, formed from a breakable, especially divisible, especially solid, and especially continuous shell, enclosing a core containing one or more ingredients.

[0067] "Millicapsule" means a spherical aggregate approximately 10-2000 μm in diameter, containing at least one solid or liquid core enclosed in at least one continuous shell.

[0068] The millicapsules used according to the invention may contain any active ingredient or mixture of active ingredients which are desirably released upon application of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, in particular to the skin and / or hair, and which the capsule coating protects against pro-oxidative factors, in particular free radicals, oxygen or UV rays, throughout the shelf life of the composition.

[0069] The content of the active substance, i.e., the encapsulation rate, can be very high, particularly in terms of the weight percentage of the active ingredient(s) relative to the total weight of the capsule, which can be as high as 85-90%.

[0070] The active ingredient may be, among others, a fragrance, an essential oil, a vitamin, etc.

[0071] The shell may be formed, for example, from a polymer(s) of marine or plant origin, from semi-synthetic or synthetic materials, such as gum arabic, agar, agarose, maltodextrin, alginic acid or one of its salts, such as sodium or calcium alginate, from fats, fatty acids, cetyl alcohol, collagen, chitosan, lecithin, gelatin, albumin, shellac, polysaccharides, such as dextran or starch and its derivatives, in particular starch ethers or esters, from polypeptides, protein hydrolysates, sucrose, waxes, etc., or from chemically modified cellulose, in particular cellulose esters or ethers, such as cellulose acetate, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, or carboxymethyl cellulose, or from polymers, such as polyacrylates, polyamides, polyvinyl alcohol, or polyvinylpyrrolidone.

[0072] The millicapsules used in the composition according to the invention can be obtained in any conventional manner, for example by coating a liquid phase or a finely dispersed solid phase with a film-forming polymer, i.e. by precipitating the film-forming polymer on the object to be coated after emulsification and coacervation or interfacial polymerization.

[0073] Millicapsules for use in accordance with the present invention may be pigment or colorant-free or may be colored, e.g., contain one or more coloring compounds in their core, their shell, or both.

[0074] The content of insoluble particles in the composition according to the present invention varies depending on the nature of the insoluble particles.

[0075] Thus, when the insoluble particles comprise one or more pearlescent agents, in particular when they consist of one or more pearlescent agents, the content of such pearlescent agents, for example glycol distearate, is preferably 0.1 to 1.2% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 1% by weight, in particular about 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] When the insoluble particles comprise, and in particular consist of, exfoliating particles, the content of exfoliating particles is 1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 2.2% by weight, in particular about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] When the insoluble particles comprise, and in particular consist of, millicapsules, the content of millicapsules is 1 to 2% by weight, preferably 1 to 1.5% by weight, in particular about 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains the following, and the contents thereof are expressed as follows relative to the total weight of the composition: - at least 50% water by weight - 5-18% surfactant mixture consisting of: a / 1.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 3 to 4% by weight, of one or more anionic surfactants selected from alanine salts, for example sodium cocoyl alanine salt b / 3 to 10%, in particular 5 to 7% by weight of lauryl glucoside, alone or in mixture with at least one other nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides whose alkyl group contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms; c / 0.5 to 3%, in particular 1.5 to 2% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine, for example cocobetaine - 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, in particular 0.3 to 0.45% by weight, of a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum, preferably in substantially equal parts by weight of each - as well as insoluble particles stably suspended in the composition, in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight of pearlescent agent(s) particles and / or 1 to 2.5% by weight of exfoliating particles and / or 1 to 2% by weight of millicapsules.

[0079] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA).

[0080] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one, i.e. one or more, cosmetically acceptable excipients, preferably selected from emollients, conditioning agents, solubilizers, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains one or more emollients, in particular chosen from glycerin, diglycerin, or sorbitol.

[0082] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains one or more conditioning agents selected from gums other than cellulose gums, in particular guar gum and its derivatives, polyquaterniums, polyglyceryls, polysaccharides, squalane, etc. Preferably, the conditioning agent is guar gum or one of its derivatives. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the total content of conditioning agent(s) is 0.1 to 1 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition. The total content of conditioning agent(s) selected from gums other than cellulose gums, such as guar gum or its derivatives, is 0.5 wt. % or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains one or more solubilizers chosen from the polyglyceryl series, such as in particular Polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, glyceryl oleate, cocoglucoside.

[0084] As mentioned above, in certain embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic composition does not contain additional ingredients with a thickening effect in order to minimize the number of ingredients in the formulation. As explained above, all components of the composition, particularly the surfactant mixture, advantageously provide the composition with a good viscosity, i.e., a viscosity that allows the composition to be free of additional ingredients with a thickening effect, even if it contains one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, such as emollients, conditioners, solubilizers, and fragrances. This reduces the number of ingredients in the composition, and the associated manufacturing costs as well.

[0085] However, in other particular embodiments of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one additional ingredient that has a thickening effect.

[0086] In that case, the additional ingredient having a thickening effect is preferably selected from alginates, carrageenans, starches, and gums other than cellulose gums, such as diutan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucan gum, gum arabic, carob gum, tamarind indica seed gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, etc. The total content of such additional ingredient(s) selected from gums other than cellulose gums is not more than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains one or more cosmetically active agents, especially for topical application, chosen for example from hydrating agents, antioxidants, vitamins, and the like.

[0088] The total content of cosmetically active ingredient(s) in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably between 0.05 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one, i.e. one or more cosmetically active agents selected from vitamins, hyaluronic acid, oat juice, helichrysum extract, helichrysum essential oil, Limnanthes oil, in particular Limnanthes alba seed oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, such as the products sold under the name Flower Acids®, Garcinia extract, milk thistle oil, niacinamide, edelweiss extract, such as the products sold under the name Alpaflor® Edelweiss, cinchona extract, caffeine, peony extract, mango butter, and citron extract, although such a list does not limit the invention in any way.

[0090] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention preferably has a kinematic viscosity of more than 700 mPa·s, preferably 1500 to 4000 mPa·s, at 22±2° C. This viscosity can be measured, for example, using a rotational rheometer such as a Rheomat RM200 (module M2) at a shear rate of 17.7 s -1 , can be measured at a shear time of 10 s.

[0091] Depending on the type of insoluble particles contained, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be transparent or opaque. A transparent composition is generally defined herein as a composition having a turbidity of less than 20 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units). An opaque composition is generally defined herein as a composition having a turbidity of more than 1000 NTU. Turbidity can be measured using a HACH TL2310 turbidity meter. Before each turbidity measurement, it is preferable to measure the turbidity of two standards from a StabCal 0-4000 NTU standard calibration kit to confirm correct adjustment of the instrument, and the standards are selected to meet the expected values ​​of the samples.

[0092] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared in the desired form by any conventional method for preparing cosmetic compositions. Particularly preferred preparation methods within the scope of the present invention include the following: - adjusting the pH to 4 in an acceptable cosmetic base, especially water, for example with citric acid. - adding the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum and insoluble particles under stirring, for example at 3000 rpm for 20 minutes, to obtain an opaque and translucent appearance; - A very rapid degassing step, for example using a vacuum chamber - Slow re-homogenization, for example in a specially perforated deflocculating turbine at 250 rpm for 5 minutes, to resuspend the cellulose and cellulose gum and to obtain a homogeneous suspension of the particles in the preparation. - introducing the amphoteric surfactant(s), followed by the nonionic surfactant(s), previously warmed at 40°C, followed by the anionic surfactant(s), for example in a perforated deflocculating turbine, at a low stirring speed, for example 450 rpm, which results in a clear formulation. - optionally adding sodium benzoate - stirring for about 20 minutes, for example at 450 rpm, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. - Optionally, adjusting the pH with citric acid, followed by stirring at 450 rpm for 5 to 15 minutes.

[0093] In certain embodiments in which the cosmetic composition comprises at least one modifier, such as a guar gum derivative, the modifier is preferably introduced into the water under vigorous stirring in the first step of the method.

[0094] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used on any keratinous material, such as the skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails or mucous membranes, and are packaged in particular in the form of hygiene products, for example in the form of products for cleansing the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, in particular in the form of products for cleansing the skin and / or removing make-up from the skin, in particular the face and / or body, in the form of shower products, in the form of shampoos, etc.

[0095] In particular, it may be in the form of a shower gel, a shampoo, or a foaming gel for the face and / or body.

[0096] Another aspect of the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the present invention for cleansing and / or caring for the skin of an individual, in particular the skin of the body and / or face and / or scalp, and / or the hair, preferably by topical application.

[0097] This use preferably comprises the following successive steps: - applying the composition to the skin and / or hair, the latter preferably being pre-wetted; - creating a lather, in particular by rubbing the applied skin and / or hair - and rinsing, preferably with water, optionally after a leaving time and / or optional massaging.

[0098] These steps can be performed once or twice a day, for example, morning and evening, or as often as needed.

[0099] The compositions according to the invention can be used in particular for cleansing and / or treating sensitive or atopic skin.

[0100] As used herein, sensitive skin refers to skin that is prone to irritation or allergic reactions due to a variety of internal and external non-immunological factors, and the term atopic skin refers to skin with inflammatory disorders characterized by dry, itchy skin, such as eczema and atopic dermatitis.

[0101] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of an individual's skin and / or hair using a cosmetic composition according to the invention, said method comprising the following successive steps: - applying the composition to the skin and / or hair, the latter preferably being pre-wetted; - creating a lather by rubbing the composition on the skin and / or hair. - as well as a step of rinsing, preferably with water.

[0102] The method may be adapted to any feature or combination of features described above with respect to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention.

[0103] The features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent in the light of the following examples, which are provided purely as illustrative and non-limiting examples of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Example]

[0104] Evaluation of various compounds with suspending properties To allow for rapid visual detection of uniform distribution of insoluble particles, several compounds with suspending properties were tested for suspending insoluble particles in otherwise clear formulations according to the present invention.

[0105] In this evaluation, the formulations contained the following in weight percent based on the total weight of the formulation: - Sodium cocoyl alaninate (3-4% by weight) - Lauryl glucoside (5-7% by weight) - Cocobetaine (1.5-2% by weight) - Insoluble particles: Millicapsules (1.2% by weight) - Test compound (% by weight as shown in Table 1) - Water (added to bring the total volume to 100%).

[0106] The insoluble particles are first uniformly suspended in the formulation by stirring.

[0107] The compositions were evaluated according to the following criteria: - Stability of suspensions of insoluble particles over time - Visual appearance (transparency, uniformity).

[0108] The results obtained regarding the appearance of the formulations after about 15 minutes are shown in Table 1 for each compound tested.

[0109] [Table 1]

[0110] With this surfactant mixture according to the invention, the transparency and stability of the insoluble particles appears to be sufficient only in the presence of the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum according to the invention, with the other compounds a cloudy appearance is observed very quickly within the first few minutes after preparation of the composition. [Example]

[0111] Evaluation of the scope of use of cellulose and cellulose gum blends. For this evaluation, the formulation contained the following by total weight of the formulation: - Sodium cocoyl alaninate (3-4% by weight) - Lauryl glucoside (5-7% by weight) - Cocobetaine (1.5-2% by weight) - Insoluble particles (types and weight percentages below) - 50 / 50 mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum (as follows by weight %) - Water (added to bring the total volume to 100%).

[0112] The insoluble particles are first uniformly suspended in the formulation by stirring.

[0113] Visual appearance verifies whether the composition has a uniform appearance and whether insoluble particles are kept in stable suspension within the formulation.

[0114] A 0.3% by weight concentration of a 50 / 50 mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum was tested, where the insoluble particles were 1.2% by weight of millicapsules. The millicapsules were observed to remain uniformly dispersed and suspended throughout the composition.

[0115] The results obtained in terms of the visual appearance of the formulations are shown in Table 2 when the insoluble particles are pearlescent agents, more specifically glycol distearate particles, at a concentration of 0.8% or 1.2% by weight.

[0116] [Table 2]

[0117] These tests show that a 0.05% mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum is insufficient to uniformly suspend 1.2% of pearlescent agent, whereas at 0.15% and above, the pearlescent agent particles appear to be uniformly and persistently suspended in the composition over time. [Example]

[0118] Examples of compositions according to the present invention A cosmetic composition according to the invention containing uniformly dispersed pearlescent agent particles intended for cosmetic treatment, namely hair hygiene and care, meets the characteristics set out in Table 3 below.

[0119] [Table 3]

[0120] Another example of a composition according to the invention containing uniformly dispersed millicapsules intended for cosmetic treatment, namely hair hygiene and care, meets the characteristics set out in Table 4 below.

[0121] [Table 4]

[0122] Another example of a composition according to the invention containing uniformly dispersed pearlescent particles intended for cosmetic treatment, ie hygiene and care of the skin of the face and / or body, is given in Table 5 below.

[0123] [Table 5]

[0124] Another example of a composition according to the invention containing uniformly dispersed millicapsules intended for cosmetic treatment, i.e. hygiene and care of the skin of the face and / or body, is given in Table 6 below.

[0125] [Table 6] [Example]

[0126] Evaluation of the characteristics of the compositions according to the invention Compositions according to the present invention having the formulations set out in Table 7 below are evaluated according to the following criteria: - Foaming power (quantity / quality): Foam height - Viscosity - pH (measured with a pH meter) - Stability of particle suspension over time (visual observation).

[0127] For this purpose, the following procedure is carried out:

[0128] To evaluate the foam height, a 250 mL measuring cylinder with a stopper, 38.9 cm in outer diameter and 36 cm in height, is used. 0.5 g of the composition is placed in the cylinder and demineralized water is added to make 50 mL. After the cylinder is stoppered, it is shaken vigorously 10 times. The foam height is read and expressed in mm.

[0129] Viscosity was measured using a Rheomat RM200 rotational rheometer (module M2) at a shear rate of 17.7 s -1 Measure at 22±2°C for a shear time of 10 seconds.

[0130] The results obtained with the various compositions (Compositions 1-4) are shown in Table 7 below.

[0131] [Table 7]

[0132] The four compositions according to the invention are seen to have very interesting foam heights and satisfactory viscosities.

[0133] Good stability of the particle suspension is further observed visually over a test period of approximately 2 hours.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: - surfactant mixtures comprising: a / at least one anionic surfactant selected from alanine salts b / as non-ionic surfactant(s), lauryl glucoside optionally mixed with at least one other non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides, the alkyl group of which contains from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; c / at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine - mixtures of cellulose and cellulose gum, at a content strictly greater than 0.05% and up to and including 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - insoluble particles stably suspended in said composition - and water Contains It does not contain amphoteric surfactants of the amidopropyl betaine class and surfactants containing at least one sulfate group, and containing up to 0.5% by weight of gum(s) other than cellulose gum based on the total weight of the composition. A cosmetic composition characterized by:

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , comprising at least 50% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the insoluble particles comprise a pearlescent agent present in the composition in a content of 0.1 to 1.2 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the insoluble particles comprise exfoliating particles present in the composition in a content of 1 to 2.5 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the insoluble particles include millicapsules present in the composition at a content of 1 to 2 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum comprises equal amounts by weight of cellulose and cellulose gum.

7. 7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum is strictly greater than 0.05% by weight and not more than 0.45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising at least one conditioning agent selected from guar gum and derivatives thereof, polyquaterniums, polyglyceryls, polysaccharides, and squalane.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the content of the surfactant mixture is 5 to 18 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. 10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant mixture contains a single anionic surfactant, which is sodium cocoyl alanine, present in the composition in a content of 1.5 to 5 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant mixture contains a single amphoteric surfactant, which is cocobetaine, present in the composition at a content of 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. 12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising at least one cosmetically active agent selected from vitamins, hyaluronic acid, oat juice, helichrysum extract, helichrysum essential oil, limnanthes oil, oat seedlings, flower acid, garcinia extract, milk thistle oil, niacinamide, edelweiss extract, cinchona extract, caffeine, peony extract, mango butter, and citron extract.

13. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 in the form of a shower gel, a shampoo, a foaming gel for the face and / or body.

14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, having a kinematic viscosity at 22°C of more than 700 mPa·s, preferably from 1500 to 4000 mPa·s.

15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 for cleansing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair.

16. 16. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 15 for the cleansing and / or care of sensitive skin.

17. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of skin and / or hair using a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, comprising: - applying said composition to the skin and / or hair, the latter preferably being pre-wetted; - rubbing the composition on the skin and / or hair to create a lather; and - Rinse step A method comprising the successive steps of:

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