Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising sunflower wax, a specific fatty alcohol, an alkyl-cellulose and tribehenin

Abstract

The object of the present invention is a flexible solid form, a) Sunflower wax; b) at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a branched primary monoalcohol containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably octyldodecanol; c) alkyl-celluloses, the alkyl residues of which contain 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethyl-cellulose; and d) tribehenin The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising: The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition described above for protecting, caring for and / or applying makeup to the lips.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention is in the field of cosmetics, in particular for protecting, caring for and / or applying makeup to the lips, and more particularly in the field of anhydrous cosmetic compositions, such as anhydrous lip balms.

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising sunflower wax, a specific fatty alcohol, an alkyl-cellulose, and tribehenin for protecting, caring for, or making up lips, more particularly to a composition having both consistency and flexibility. The present invention further relates to the use of such a composition for protecting, caring for, and / or making up lips. [Background technology]

[0003] Lip balms are one of the most frequently used cosmetic products and are essential for many consumers, even those who are not particularly interested in makeup. Lip balms can be used to enhance lip shine, brighten lips, or give them a glossy or lustrous appearance. However, they are also designed to protect, repair, nourish, and prevent lip dryness.

[0004] The skin layer of the lips is particularly thin and sensitive, and therefore more easily attacked by various external conditions (heat, dryness, cold, ultraviolet rays, pollution, etc.). In addition, various substances (pollutants and / or cosmetic elements) can irritate the skin of the lips, weaken the skin barrier by absorbing these substances, promote dryness of the lips, and / or prevent the lips from regenerating. Therefore, it is necessary to regularly protect the lips, replenish their nutrients, maintain moisture levels, and / or repair chapped lips, thereby maintaining the flexibility and softness of the lips over time.

[0005] Products designed for lip care vary in their composition, texture, and appearance. They can be packaged in sticks, tubes, or pots for convenient access and easy application. Their performance also varies greatly in terms of protecting, nourishing, moisturizing, and / or softening the lips. When the skin of the lips is very rough, a soft-textured balm (e.g., in a tube with an applicator end or in a pot for application with the fingers) is preferable to a traditional stick, which can be more painful to apply. Satisfying sensory properties are also expected, such as ease of application (ease of spreading, melting and / or slippage during application, lightness and ease of stay), and ease of use (comfortable, not too sticky, sufficiently uniform adhesion, enveloping sensation). Their stability over time also varies greatly.

[0006] There are several high-performance anhydrous soft compositions on the market, sold in deformable tubes, such as, for example, Bariederm Cica Lip Balm ("Cica-Lips Repairing Balm") from URIAGE, Baume Reparateur Levres Atoderm ("Restorative Lip Balm") from BIODERMA, Baume A Levres Brillant ("Lip Glowy Balm") from LANEIGE or Soin Instant Colour Enhancing Oil Gel ("Lip Glow Pomade") from DIOR ADDICT.

[0007] However, the texture (generally in the form of a soft gel) and performance of these products are often associated with the presence of petrochemical compounds, such as mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin, or plastic powders (nylon, polyethylene, etc.), which consumers may currently perceive as undesirable. Petrolatum (also known as petroleum jelly or petrolatum) is a gel composed of oils and waxes of mineral origin, for example. It has good oil-retaining properties, contributing to the stability of anhydrous formulations. Furthermore, petrolatum's high melting point prevents the composition from liquefying in hot climates. Petrolatum also has emollient properties, limiting dryness and promoting rapid skin healing. Hydrogenated polyisobutene is also commonly used in soft balms of this type due to the feel of this type of soft balm, the texture it provides (a fairly creamy consistency, easy spreadability), its ability to form an impermeable film on the skin surface, its emollient properties, and its ability to enhance shine in lip gloss formulations. The exclusion of this type of petrochemical compound often results in a loss in sensory properties (appearance, feel, sensation on the lips, loss of consistency on application or even excessive liquefaction), as well as an impact on the rheological properties of the composition (increasing or decreasing the ease of recovery of the product due to a deformable tube opening), its stability over time, and its effectiveness (protective, nourishing and anti-drying action).

[0008] Although anhydrous compositions based on naturally occurring butters or waxes exist, they are generally less pleasant to use (difficult to apply, either too soft or too hard, requiring excessive effort from the user, poor restoration of the product upon opening the deformable tube, loss of consistency upon application, etc.) and / or less effective (protective, repairing, anti-drying, etc.). These compositions often also exhibit stability issues over time, resulting in coarse textures and grains visible to the naked eye due to release, exudation, and / or random recrystallization phenomena. Without wishing to be limited to any one theory, this may be partially explained by the polymorphism of naturally occurring waxes, particularly triglyceride-based waxes, which have the ability to crystallize in several different structures and thereby exhibit various crystalline shapes that can result in grain growth and / or nucleation in response to temperature changes that the composition may encounter. In addition, naturally occurring waxes are more prone to variability in their composition and batch-to-batch quality, which may affect the reproducibility of formulation stability. Finally, these compositions are gel-like and generally have a waxy appearance that is less pleasing and less appealing to consumers, who are more likely to choose compositions that have a more translucent or milky appearance.

[0009] Furthermore, problems such as recrystallization and / or oil release are more easily observed in flexible solids, which generally contain large amounts of liquid fatty compounds. As a result, the solid network can be more easily reorganized at temperatures below 50°C (temperatures commonly used in stability tests and which may also be reached under transport and storage conditions).

[0010] This means that it is a real challenge to formulate products, especially those with a soft texture and that are more environmentally friendly, but which remain attractive and effective in terms of efficacy, organoleptic properties and stability. The use of ingredients of natural origin can have a significant impact not only on the organoleptic qualities of a cosmetic product (a texture that is perceived as difficult to spread or that can interfere with application), but also on its stability and homogeneity over time (oily rejects, uncontrolled crystallization, loss of consistency or thinness). Consumers, while increasingly concerned about the environment, are also very demanding in terms of organoleptic qualities and continue to look for products that are easy to apply, have a satisfying texture (meltability, slipperiness, neither sticky nor greasy, leaves a thick film on the lips, enveloping sensation) and are highly effective throughout the product's lifespan.

[0011] Therefore, there remains a need for more natural soft cosmetic compositions for the lips, especially those that do not contain compounds of petrochemical origin such as mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin or plastic powders, etc. In particular, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that contain at least 75% ingredients of natural origin, while maintaining high standards of organoleptic properties and stability, for example.

[0012] There is also a need to formulate a cosmetic composition for the lips that provides effective protection and repair that lasts all day, very quickly relieves discomfort and tightness, and helps keep the lips moisturized over time.

[0013] There is also a need to formulate a cosmetic composition that has very good sensory properties, in particular a texture both consistent and soft, that is pleasant to wear, that is non-sticky, and that forms a sufficiently thick film on the lips.

[0014] There is also a need for cosmetic compositions that are sufficiently flexible that they are easy to use, collect and spread, or can be easily administered through the opening of a deformable tube (without requiring excessive pressure to expel the composition).

[0015] There is also a need to formulate cosmetic compositions that have satisfactory aesthetic properties, particularly a gelled or milky (non-waxy) appearance, with a satisfactory shine when applied to the lips.

[0016] At the same time, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that have good stability over time (control of release or crystallization phenomena, maintenance of consistency and texture) and that continue to maintain their homogeneity over the shelf life of the product, up to several months, especially after being opened by the end user.

[0017] Surprisingly, it is to the credit of the applicant that he has proposed a novel cosmetic composition that solves all these problems. Summary of the Invention

[0018] According to a first aspect, the object of the present invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition in a flexible solid form, comprising: a) Sunflower wax; b) at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a branched primary monoalcohol containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably octyldodecanol; c) alkyl-celluloses, the alkyl residues of which contain 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethyl-cellulose; and d) tribehenin The anhydrous cosmetic composition comprises:

[0019] After much research, the inventors have demonstrated that it is possible to provide cosmetic compositions with a high content of naturally occurring ingredients that are effective, sensory and stable over time, and that do not require the use of petrochemical compounds or plastic powders.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention has a solid yet flexible texture and is easily deformable, for example, an oily gel type or partially oily composition type texture.

[0021] The composition according to the invention is easily collected (e.g., with the fingers, with a spatula, or through the opening of a deformable tube), and its texture is flexible enough to allow recovery through a 2 mm opening without requiring any particular effort from the user to deform the tube.

[0022] Surprisingly, the particular combination of ingredients means that the lips are provided with a sufficiently thick protective film, which meets the performance criteria for protection, nourishment and repair. The composition according to the invention protects lips from dryness and irritation, leaving them soft, supple and nourished.

[0023] Surprisingly, the combination according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a melt gel texture similar to that which would be obtained with fatty substances of petrochemical origin.More specifically, the composition according to the present invention has very good sensory properties, and is both consistent and soft, with a balm texture that spreads easily on the skin with good smoothness.The texture is also soft and soft when applied, and can remain on the lips in the form of a thick, enveloping film.When used, the composition according to the present invention is also satisfying to wear, not excessively sticky, and not "sticky".

[0024] Surprisingly, the composition according to the invention, although free of petrochemical compounds, is gelled when dispensed from the tube and even has a milky, but not waxy, appearance (layer about 2 mm thick), a texture and appearance that is quite unusual for compositions with a high content of naturally occurring ingredients (which usually have a waxy appearance).

[0025] In addition, the composition according to the present invention meets the use and stability criteria: this combination makes it possible to obtain an elastic solid with good stability over time (especially after storage under accelerated conditions at 50°C and temperature cycling). The composition maintains homogeneity and does not release oil or leak. The flexible solid composition according to the present invention also has a constant consistency over time. The specific combination according to the present invention also makes it possible to better control the reproducibility of stability by overcoming the variations caused by the naturalness of the ingredients (especially waxes).

[0026] Finally, the composition according to the invention is directed to the skin in general, including the delicate skin of the lips, and makes it possible to limit or even eliminate the use of preservatives, thereby meeting safety and preservation requirements.

[0027] The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin, in particular to the lips. It may be used to protect, care for and / or make up the lips. It may be packaged in a pot and / or a tube.

[0028] Another object of the present invention is the use of the cosmetic composition as defined above for protecting, caring for and / or cosmetically applying to the lips. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0029] Detailed Description General terms used herein are defined below.

[0030] The phrase "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more."

[0031] The phrase "comprises" includes the phrase "consists only of."

[0032] The phrase "from to" should be understood to include all of the above.

[0033] The words "between" and "less than" or "greater than" should be understood to mean "excluding".

[0034] Names such as "INCI" refer to the names of cosmetic ingredients according to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, "cosmetic composition" means a composition suitable for external topical application. It comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier, i.e., a carrier compatible with the skin, in particular the lips. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a lip care and / or makeup product. The cosmetic composition also comprises one or more additives, including active ingredients, emollients, and fragrances. It may also have moisturizing, softening, and / or protective properties for the lips. It may also promote lip repair.

[0036] The term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). This means that the composition has a consistency high enough to retain its shape during storage under these conditions. In other words, the composition does not flow under its own weight. In particular, when the composition is packaged in a pot (e.g., 150 g of composition in a 6 cm diameter pot) at room temperature (25°C) and the pot is turned upside down, the composition does not flow under its own weight for at least 12 hours, preferably at least 24 hours.

[0037] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a flexible solid.

[0038] By "soft solid" we mean in particular a texture that does not flow under its own weight but deforms under the influence of pressure, for example, as applied by the fingers. Typically, the consistency is soft and easy to handle, similar to the viscosity of, for example, an ointment or butter (without fatty properties). The composition is easy to apply, so only the required amount of product needs to be dispensed. It may also be easily dispensed through the opening of the tube by applying slight pressure to the tube (for example, through an opening with a diameter of about 2 mm, without requiring excessive force on the part of the user).

[0039] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention requires a pressure of 15 to 40 Newtons (N), preferably 15 to 30 N, more preferably 15 to 25 N, to be expelled through a 1.5 mm opening. The pressure is measured, for example, using an Ametek LS1 dynamometer (manufactured by LLOYD company) at 22°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 The measurement may be carried out, for example, by compressing a press tube containing the composition, having an opening of 1.5 mm, using the above-mentioned dynamometer at a speed of 165 mm / min.

[0040] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is heated at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 The viscosity of the composition is preferably at most 500,000 mPa.s, more preferably at most 450,000 mPa.s, as measured, for example, using a Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with a Helipath system (with an M95 moving object at a speed of 10 rpm (i.e., revolutions per minute)).

[0041] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is heated at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5The viscosity of the composition is at least 150,000 mPa.s, preferably at least 200,000 mPa.s and better still at least 300,000 mPa.s (in units of 1000 kJ / sq. mPa), as measured, for example, using a Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with a Helipath system (with an M95 moving object at a speed of 10 rpm (i.e., revolutions per minute)).

[0042] More preferably, the composition according to the invention is refrigerated at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 The viscosity ranges from 150,000 to 500,000 mPa.s, in particular from 200,000 to 500,000 mPa.s, and better still from at least 300,000 to 450,000 mPa.s (at rpm), as measured, for example, using a Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with a Helipath system (equipped with an M95 moving object at a speed of 10 rpm).

[0043] Advantageously, compositions according to the invention have a dropping point below 55°C, preferably below 50°C. Solid compositions with relatively low dropping points (below 50°C) are generally more flexible than solid compositions with higher dropping points. Preferably, compositions according to the invention have a dropping point between 38°C and 50°C, more preferably between 43°C and 46°C.

[0044] The dropping point is the temperature at which a drop of molten product falls from a calibration cup (with a hole at the bottom) in a liquid state while being gradually heated. The dropping point is typically determined using a Metler Toledo DP70 apparatus (Dropping Point System) in accordance with ASTM-D 3954. More specifically, the composition is heated until all of the components are melted and then poured into a calibration cup. The cup is allowed to stand at room temperature (25°C) for at least 20 minutes before measuring the dropping point. The cup is then placed in the DP70 measuring apparatus at a heating rate of 1°C per minute.

[0045] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention contain at least 70% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 75% of ingredients of natural origin. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention contain at least 70% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 75% of ingredients of natural origin, according to the NF ISO 16128 standard. The proportion of ingredients of natural origin is calculated according to the principles of the NF ISO 16128 standard. Surprisingly, the specific combination of ingredients identified by the inventors makes it possible to obtain compositions with a high natural appearance, even when combining the organoleptic, performance and stability properties of compositions containing ingredients of petrochemical origin.

[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, "natural" ingredients particularly refer to ingredients (or substances) that exist in nature (obtained from plants, animals, microorganisms, or minerals) and that are obtained raw or exclusively by physical processes. For example, ingredients may be extracted and / or processed by mechanical or gravitational means, such as dissolving in water, maceration, extraction with water, distillation, grinding, pressing, flotation, sedimentation, filtration, etc. The natural index of natural ingredients is determined according to the NF ISO no. 16128 standard (or "natural origin index") and is 1 (100% natural origin). Examples of natural ingredients include water, plant extracts using natural solvents (water or other natural solvents), plant or seed parts, vegetable oils, inorganic ingredients, etc.

[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "naturally derived" ingredients refers in particular to natural ingredients that have been extracted and / or chemically processed and have undergone a limited number of small-scale chemical transformations. These chemical transformations and processes may be carried out according to the principles of green chemistry (as opposed to the petrochemical methods for petroleum derivatives), as listed, for example, in the NF ISO no. 16128 standard. The natural index of a "naturally derived" ingredient, calculated according to the NF ISO no. 16128 standard, is greater than 0.5 (i.e., it contains more than 50% of the molecular mass of natural origin).

[0048] In this specification, "naturally occurring" ingredients particularly refer to the above-mentioned "natural" and "naturally derived" ingredients. The natural index of naturally occurring ingredients, calculated according to the NF ISO no. 16128 standard, is greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1. In contrast, ingredients that are synthetic or primarily derived from fossil fuels have a natural index of 0.

[0049] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any silicone compounds.

[0050] Unless otherwise specified, for the purposes of the present invention, "free" means a mass of a substance of 0.5% or less of the total mass of the composition, preferably 0.2% or less, preferably 0.1% or less, more preferably 0.05% or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0051] anhydrous composition : For the purposes of the present invention, an "anhydrous composition" means a composition having a water content of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and even more particularly less than 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More specifically, no water is added during the preparation of the composition, and the water content corresponds to the residual water provided by the ingredients being calibrated.

[0052] The composition according to the invention comprises fatty substances, in particular sunflower wax, a primary monoalcohol with a branched chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and tribehenin.

[0053] For the purposes of this invention, a "fatty substance" is defined as a fatty substance that is soluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 "Fatty substances" refers to organic compounds that are not miscible in water at 1000 kJ / cm² (760 mmHg). More specifically, the solubility of this type of compound in water is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Compounds of this type generally have a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups in their structure. Generally speaking, the term "fatty substances" includes hydrocarbons, silicones, and fluorine compounds.

[0054] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon" means a compound containing at least one hydrocarbon group (i.e., a group containing hydrogen and carbon atoms) and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon compounds may contain, for example, alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. More particularly, in the context of the present invention, hydrocarbon compounds do not contain silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0055] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone" means a compound containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group. Examples include organopolysiloxanes.

[0056] "Fluorinated" means a compound that contains at least one fluorine atom.

[0057] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty substances are preferably hydrocarbon-based. More preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone fatty substances and fluorofatty substances.

[0058] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain any fatty substances of petrochemical origin. More particularly, the composition according to the present invention may be free of any fatty substances of petrochemical origin selected from mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and microcrystalline wax. More preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain any fatty substances of petrochemical origin selected from mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, lignite, ceresin, and synthetic wax. The specific combination according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a stable, flexible composition with high performance and a gelled appearance without the need to use fatty substances of this type.

[0059] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain plastic powders of petrochemical origin. Examples include polyolefin powders (such as polyethylene), polyamide powders (such as nylon powder), or acrylic polymers (methacrylate copolymer powders). Examples of such plastic powders include compounds with the INCI names methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene, ethylene / methacrylate copolymer, nylon 6, nylon-6 / 12, nylon-12, HDI / trimethylolhexylacetone crosspolymer, or polyethylene terephthalate.

[0060] The compositions according to the invention may consist of only a single fatty phase (single-phase composition) or may be in the form of a dispersion of two immiscible phases (for example in the form of an emulsion comprising a fatty phase and an anhydrous hydrophilic phase, or in the form of a liquid in which a powder is suspended in a fatty phase).

[0061] "Single-phase composition" means a composition that contains only one homogeneous phase. Such a composition is distinct from a dispersion of two immiscible phases at ambient temperature.

[0062] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dispersion of two immiscible phases at room temperature (25°C). According to a first example, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, in which a hydrophilic phase (including hydrophilic components) is dispersed in a lipophilic phase (or fatty phase). Examples of hydrophilic components capable of forming the hydrophilic phase include short-chain monoalcohols containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms (ethanol, isopropanol), linear or branched polyols containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms (butylene glycol, glycerol or glycerin, sorbitol, etc.), and mixtures thereof. When the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, the mass content of the hydrophilic phase is preferably at most 5%, preferably at most 3%, more preferably at most 2% relative to the total mass of the composition. According to a second example, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a suspension of a powder dispersed in a lipophilic phase (or fatty phase). Examples of powders include compounds having the INCI names: silica, talc, mica, cellulose, tapioca starch, microcrystalline cellulose, oat bran extract, corn (zea mays) starch, kaolin, perlite. When the composition according to the invention is in the form of a suspension, the mass content of powders is preferably at most 10%, preferably at most 5%, more preferably at most 3% relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0063] Macroscopic analysis (by the naked eye) of the compositions according to the invention shows a homogeneous appearance, whether the composition is single-phase or in the form of a dispersion.

[0064] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a hydrophilic phase.

[0065] Sunflower Wax : The composition according to the invention comprises sunflower wax.

[0066] It is a vegetable wax that is typically a by-product of sunflower oil production, e.g., obtained by extracting the seeds (especially the shelled seeds). Sunflower wax is traditionally used in candles, but in the 18th century it was also used as a protective wax to cover the pages of Russian manuscripts. It was also used by certain Native American societies in the Americas as a fixing wax to hold hairstyles and decorative feathers in place.

[0067] More generally, waxes add consistency and a certain hardness to cosmetic compositions. They may also add a certain shine. Sunflower wax is plant-based and is a more environmentally friendly alternative to mineral, synthetic, or petrochemical waxes. However, formulating cosmetic compositions that do not contain mineral, synthetic, or petrochemical waxes is often more difficult because plant-based compositions are more likely to experience instability phenomena such as grain formation (recrystallization) or oil release. In addition, plant-based wax-based compositions may present stability problems depending on the batch of plant wax used, given that these waxes are more susceptible to variation in composition and quality. The inventors have identified a specific combination of ingredients that allows these instability phenomena to be avoided despite the presence of sunflower wax and the absence of mineral, synthetic, or petrochemical waxes.

[0068] Sunflower wax has a reversible solid / liquid state and a melting point above 60°C, and is stable at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 At 760 mmHg (Pa), sunflower wax is a solid fatty substance. 38 ~C 60 Carboxylic acid esters, especially C 40 ~C 54They may consist solely of or comprise carboxylic acid esters. These esters are in particular esters of the formula R-COO-R', where R is an alkyl chain containing 16 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and R' is an alkyl chain containing 16 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular 26 to 32 carbon atoms. Preferably, the sunflower wax has a dropping point in the range of 65°C to 80°C, more particularly 70°C to 80°C, determined according to ASTM-D 3954, for example using a Metler Toledo DP70 (Dropping Point System) apparatus.

[0069] Non-limiting examples of sunflower waxes that can be used include compounds having the INCI name "Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax," such as products commercially available from INGRETECH under the name KAHLWAX 6607L or products commercially available from KOSTER KEUNEN under the name SUNFLOWER WAX.

[0070] In the composition according to the invention, the mass content of sunflower wax may be at least 3%, preferably at least 4%, more preferably at least 6% relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0071] The sunflower wax mass content may be at most 20%, preferably at most 15%, more preferably at most 12% relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0072] Preferably, the sunflower wax content by mass is between 3% and 20%, preferably between 4% and 15%, more preferably between 6% and 12%, relative to the total mass of the composition, which makes the composition more stable and organoleptic.

[0073] Branched chain primary monoalcohols: The composition according to the invention comprises at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a branched primary monoalcohol containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0074] This is a specific type of alcohol that is called "fatty" (presence of a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms), which alcohol has a primary -OH group and a branched chain carried by a single primary -OH group, i.e., a CH2 group. The number of carbon atoms between 12 and 24 refers to a primary monoalcohol, thus including the carbon atom of the -CH2-OH group. More specifically, within the meaning of the present invention, a branched primary monoalcohol is one that has a viscosity of 1000 psi at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 It is a compound that is liquid at temperatures below 760 mmHg (Pa).

[0075] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more branched primary monoalcohols containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the total mass content of which is at least 15%.

[0076] Preferably, the at least one branched chain primary monoalcohol contains from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0077] Preferably, the at least one branched primary monoalcohol is at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 Pa, 760 mmHg) is a liquid.

[0078] Preferably, the branched chain primary monoalcohol is a β-branched primary alcohol, in other words, the branched chain is in the β position relative to the hydroxy functional group (—OH).

[0079] More particularly, the primary branched monoalcohol is a Guerbet alcohol. Guerbet alcohols are a well-known type of β-branched primary alcohol, formed by dimerization of alcohols, and are defined, for example, in WO 2013 / 040313. In the context of the present invention, branched primary monoalcohols containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms are preferably of the general formula: CH3-(CH2) n -CH(CH2-OH)-(CH2) nー2-CH3, where n is an integer between 5 and 12, preferably between 6 and 10, and more preferably between 7 and 9. An example of a Guerbet alcohol containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms is 2-butyl-1-octanol (general formula C 12 H 26 O, n=5), 2-pentyl-1-nonanol (general formula C 14 H 30 O, n=6), 2-hexyl-1-decanol (general formula C 16 H 34 2-heptyl-1-undecanol (or HEPTYLUNDECANOL, general formula C 18 H 38 O, n=8), 2-octyl-1-dodecanol (general formula C 20 H 42 O and INCI name: OCTYLDODECANOL), 2-nonyl-1-tridecanol (general formula C 22 H 46 O, n=10) and 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol (general formula C 24 H 50 O, n=12).

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the branched primary monoalcohol is selected from hexyldecanol, heptylundecanol, octyldodecanol or mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the branched primary monoalcohol is octyldodecanol.

[0081] Non-limiting examples of branched-chain primary monoalcohols that can be used include the compound with catalog number 5333-42-6 (9-icosanol or 2-octyldodecan-1-ol), or products sold under the names EUTANOL G (manufactured by BASF), ISOFOL 20 (manufactured by IMCD), or RISONOL 20SP / MB (manufactured by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO., LTD.).

[0082] The mass content of branched primary monoalcohol in the composition according to the present invention is at least 15% relative to the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the mass content of branched primary monoalcohol is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, more preferably at least 50% relative to the total mass of the composition. A high content of this type of liquid fatty compound, together with any other liquid fatty substance, can contribute to the soft texture of the solid composition according to the present invention. However, flexible solids containing large amounts of liquid fatty compounds are more likely to undergo reorganization of their solid network at temperatures approaching 50°C or below, thereby being prone to recrystallization and / or oil release problems. Surprisingly, the combination of ingredients used in the present invention allows for a combination of higher stability and improved sensory properties.

[0083] Preferably, the mass content of branched primary monoalcohols in the composition according to the invention is less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0084] Preferably, the mass content of the branched primary monoalcohol is 30% to 70%, preferably 40% to 60%, relative to the total mass of the composition, which makes the composition more stable and more organoleptic.

[0085] Alkyl cellulose : The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkyl-cellulose in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0086] The alkyl-celluloses according to the present invention are oil-soluble or oil-dispersible.

[0087] The alkyl groups in alkyl-celluloses are understood to be hydrocarbon chains, particularly hydrocarbon chains having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. These alkyls are not substituted with hydroxy groups (-OH), and therefore, for the purposes of this invention, alkyl-celluloses are lipophilic (thus excluding compounds of the "hydroxyalkylcellulose" type).

[0088] Alkyl-cellulose has gelling properties and can be used as a fatty phase thickener.For the purposes of the present invention, "thickener" refers in particular to a polymer that can increase the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced due to its presence.In addition to increasing viscosity, alkyl-cellulose can also be involved in creating a gel network structure as part of the combination according to the present invention.

[0089] Alkyl-celluloses are alkyl ethers of cellulose. Cellulose is a linear homopolymer in which the repeating glucose unit contains three hydroxyl functional groups (-OH). All or some of these hydroxyl groups may be alkylated (substituted with alkoxy groups). The degree of substitution (DS) represents the average number of etherified hydroxyl groups per glucose unit. For example, in the case of ethyl-cellulose (catalog number 9004-57-3), the proportion of ethoxy groups (-OC2H5) in the molecule can vary from 44% to 51% by dry weight (equivalent to an average of 2.6 or fewer ethoxy groups per glucose unit).

[0090] In a preferred embodiment, the alkyl-cellulose has a degree of substitution of 2 or greater.

[0091] Alkyl-celluloses may optionally contain several different alkyl groups, for example, ethylmethyl-cellulose (also called methylethylcellulose, used as a food additive) is a cellulose derivative that contains both ethyl and methyl groups.

[0092] Preferably, the alkyl-cellulose is selected from methyl-cellulose, ethyl-cellulose, ethylmethyl-cellulose, propylcellulose, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the alkyl-cellulose is selected from ethyl-cellulose, ethylmethyl-cellulose, propylcellulose, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the alkyl-cellulose is ethyl-cellulose.

[0093] Non-limiting examples of commercially available alkyl-celluloses include the compound with catalog number 9004-57-3 (ethyl-cellulose) or products distributed by, for example, UNIVAR and sold as CELLOSIZE OIL 100 Ethyl-cellulose (formerly ETHOCEL STANDARD 100 PREMIUM) by THE DOW CHEMICAL COMPANY, or Aqualon EC N200 PC by ASHLAND.

[0094] The mass content of alkyl-cellulose in the composition according to the invention may be at least 1%, preferably at least 2%, more preferably at least 2.5% relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0095] On the other hand, the mass content of alkyl-cellulose in the composition according to the invention may be at most 8%, preferably at most 6%, and may also be less than 4% relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0096] Preferably, the mass content of alkylcellulose in the composition according to the invention is between 1% and 8%, preferably between 2% and 6%, relative to the total mass of the composition, which allows, if necessary, to combine greater stability and functionality of the composition.

[0097] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the amount of alkylcellulose to the amount of branched primary monoalcohol is between 1:5 and 1:30, preferably between 1:10 and 1:25, which makes it possible to improve the consistency, stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

[0098] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention does not contain a styrene-based or olefin-based fatty phase polymer gelling agent and does not contain an isocyanate-based fatty phase polymer gelling agent. Examples of styrene- or olefin-based fatty phase polymer gelling agents include compounds with the INCI names hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer, ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymer, butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer, etc. Examples of isocyanate-based fatty phase polymer gelling agents include compounds with the INCI name castor oil / IPDI copolymer.

[0099] tribehenin : The composition according to the present invention comprises tribehenin.

[0100] Tribehenin, also known as glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: tribehenin), is a triester of glycerol and venenoic acid (CASE No. 18641-57-1), commonly used as a wax, especially to give consistency to the fatty phase of cosmetic compositions, and is also noted for its emollient properties.

[0101] Non-limiting examples of commercially available references that may be used include the product sold under the name SYNCROWAX HRC by CRODA or the product sold by SEDERMA (CRODA Group) under the name MAXI-LIP.

[0102] The tribehenin content by weight in the composition according to the invention may be at least 0.1%, preferably at least 0.2%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This small amount of tribehenin is sufficient to obtain a composition that is stable over time.

[0103] On the other hand, the mass content of tribehenin in the composition according to the present invention may be up to 2%, preferably up to 1%, relative to the total mass of the composition. The mass content of tribehenin in the composition according to the present invention may also be less than 1% relative to the total mass of the composition. A small amount of tribehenin is sufficient to obtain a composition that is stable over time.

[0104] Preferably, the mass content of tribehenin in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% to 2%, preferably 0.1% to less than 1%, more preferably 0.2% to less than 1%, based on the total mass of the composition. This makes the composition more stable and functional. For example, the mass content of tribehenin in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% to 0.8%, preferably 0.2% to 0.8%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0105] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention provides a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 3% to 20% by weight, preferably 4% to 15% by weight, more preferably 6% to 12% by weight of sunflower wax; b) 15% to 70% by weight, preferably 30% to 70% by weight, in particular 40% to 60% by weight, of primary monoalcohols with branched chains containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms; c) 1% to 8%, preferably 2% to 6%, in particular 2.5% to 4%, by weight of alkylcelluloses in which the alkyl residue contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and d) 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 1% by weight, of tribehenin The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:

[0106] Further compounds : The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more ingredients, in particular conventional cosmetic active ingredients and / or excipients.

[0107] These compounding agents can be appropriately selected depending on the use of the composition of the present invention.

[0108] Non-limiting examples of ingredient(s) include active ingredients, fatty substances or organic solvents (e.g., alcohols and polyols), lipophilic rheological agents (thickeners or gelling agents), emollients, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, antifoaming agents, film-forming agents, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphoteric), fillers (e.g., matting powders, soft focus active touch powders, etc.), UV filters (or photoprotective agents, organic and / or inorganic, active in UVA and / or UVB), colorants, chelating agents, alkalizing and acidifying agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, fragrances, or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetics and / or dermatology fields. The amounts of these various compounds are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.

[0109] For example, the composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one active ingredient. Examples of active ingredients include: - antipollutants and / or radical inhibitors and / or antioxidants (coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone); -Anti-aging agents; - firming or anti-wrinkle agents such as plant proteins and their hydrolysates (for example soy protein extracts); - humectants (e.g. polyols such as glycerin); -Anti-inflammatory agents (such as glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts); -Sedatives (allantoin, bisabolol, cornflower water); -Antibacterial agents; -volumizers; Vitamins and provitamins (ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8 and their derivatives, such as esters of these vitamins); -Essential oils Includes.

[0110] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more further fatty substances. Further fatty substances are understood to mean fatty substances other than those mentioned in the main claim and those mentioned above (in particular sunflower wax, branched primary alcohols containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms and tribehenin). These have a viscosity of 1.013*10°C at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10°C). 5 The fatty substance may be liquid or solid at a pressure (at a temperature of 760 mmHg or less). "Solid fatty substance" and "liquid fatty substance" are defined and exemplified below.

[0111] "Solid fatty substances" (or "non-liquid fatty substances") are particularly defined as substances that are soluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 The term "solid fatty substance" refers to a compound that is solid or substantially solid at a viscosity of 760 mmHg (Pa). They are generally used in cosmetic compositions as structuring agents, for example to thicken the composition or to increase the consistency of the fatty phase. Solid fatty substances may be crystalline, amorphous or pasty. They may be, for example, waxes or pasty fatty substances.

[0112] "Wax" is particularly 5 The term "wax" refers to a compound that is solid at temperatures (°C, 760 mmHg), undergoes reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point above approximately 45°C. Waxes generally have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally speaking, waxes may be of vegetable origin (sunflower wax, rice wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated castor oil, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, etc.), animal origin (beeswax, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives, etc.), mineral origin (paraffin wax, petrolatum, ozokerite, lignite, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, etc.) or synthetic origin (polyolefins such as polyethylene wax, polyalphaolefins, etc.). In the context of the present invention, waxes are preferably of vegetable and / or animal origin.

[0113] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" (also called "butter") particularly refers to a fatty substance that undergoes a reversible change of solid / liquid state and that contains a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). For example, the solid fraction of a pasty compound measured at 25°C may correspond to 10% to 90% by weight of the compound. In other words, the starting melting temperature of a pasty compound may be below 25°C. A pasty compound also has an end-of-melting temperature that may be, for example, below 60°C. For the purposes of the present invention, the end-of-melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted. The melting temperature may be measured and the end-of-melting temperature determined according to the protocol described in WO 2020 / 127383. In the solid state, a pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline structure.

[0114] The melting point of the solid fatty substance may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as, for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by TA Instruments, equipped with the "TA Universal Analysis" software. WO 2022 / 003026 describes measurement protocols that are applicable depending on whether the solid fatty substance is a wax or a pasty compound.

[0115] Among the solid fatty substances that can be used are, for example, non-liquid fatty alcohols (such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, etc.); non-liquid fatty acids (such as palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, etc.); non-liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters (such as glycerol behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl laurate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, etc.); non-liquid fatty amines and ethers; and more generally, waxes of natural origin (such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, etc.) or pasty fatty substances of vegetable origin (such as shea butter, mango butter, cocoa butter, cocoa butter, hydrogenated coconut oil, etc.).

[0116] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one vegetable butter. The presence of vegetable butter generally provides emollient and organoleptic properties, in particular by giving the composition consistency and flux. However, the presence of this type of compound can also affect stability (lumpy appearance due to recrystallization). Surprisingly, the specific combination according to the invention makes it possible to avoid these crystallization phenomena even in the presence of vegetable butter. Preferably, the mass content of vegetable butter in the composition according to the invention is between 1% and 10%, preferably between 3% and 8%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0117] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one beeswax, which allows improving the organoleptic properties of the composition. Beeswax has traditionally been used as a solid base ingredient, ointment or lip ointment in treatments for external application to the skin. However, beeswax can also contribute to instability phenomena (emission and / or disordered recrystallization). Surprisingly, this particular combination avoids these instability phenomena even in the presence of beeswax. Preferably, the mass content of beeswax in the composition according to the present invention is between 1% and 12%, preferably between 4% and 9%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0118] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one further liquid fatty substance, for example, the mass content of the further liquid fatty substance may be between 5% and 30%, preferably between 10 and 25%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0119] "Liquid fatty substance" refers specifically to a substance that is soluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 This refers to a compound that is liquid at room temperature (at 760 mmHg, Pa).

[0120] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil, more particularly a hydrocarbon oil of plant origin.

[0121] "Oil" in particular is at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 Oil refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (at 760 mmHg). Oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0122] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant, particularly within the meaning of the present invention, essentially formed or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms, for example, it may contain ester, ether, carbonate groups, etc.

[0123] By "volatile oil" is meant in particular an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin for less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are liquid at room temperature and have a viscosity of between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (10 -3 The compound may have a vapor pressure in the range of 0.1 to 300 mmHg.

[0124] By "non-volatile oils" is meant in particular oils that remain on the skin for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. In particular, they have a viscosity of less than 0.13 Pa (10 -3 It has a vapor pressure of less than 1000 kJ / mmHg.

[0125] Examples of hydrocarbon oils that can be used are hydrocarbons containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms (such as n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16)); hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular alkane oils (squalane), vegetable oils (triglycerides, sweeteners, etc.). almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, mirabelle plum oil, shea oil, etc.) or other oils of plant origin (capsicum oil, liquid fatty acid mono-, di- and triglycerides such as oleic / capric triglyceride; liquid fatty alcohols (such as oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol); liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than glycerides (such as ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, hexyldecyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, cetearyl isononanoate, coco-caprylate, coco-caprylate / caprate); liquid fatty acid ethers (such as dicaprylyl ether, distearyl ether, diisononyl ether); carbonate oils (such as dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate) and mixtures thereof.

[0126] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from ester oils, more particularly hydrocarbon oils having a molecular weight between 500 and 5,000 g / mol, preferably between 600 and 4,500 g / mol, more preferably between 1,000 and 4,500 g / mol. One example of an ester oil that may be used is a compound with the INCI name hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate.

[0127] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil selected from fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oils. These esters, referred to as "fatty" esters, have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be substituted. Examples of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oils include ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, diisopropyl dimerate, hexyldecyl stearate, and ethylhexyl stearate. Preferably, the molecular weight of the fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oil is 500 to 5,000 g / mol, preferably 600 to 4,500 g / mol, and more preferably 1,000 to 4,500 g / mol. Examples of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oils having a molecular weight of 500 to 5,000 g / mol include diisostearyl malate and diisopropyl dimerate. Preferably, the mass content of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oil in the composition according to the invention is between 5% and 25%, preferably between 10% and 20%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0128] Knowledge of cosmetics allows a person skilled in the art to select the ingredients to be added to the composition of the invention and their amounts according to the desired properties, without substantially altering the effects associated with the composition according to the invention, in particular its effectiveness, stability and organoleptic properties.

[0129] According to a particular embodiment, the object of the present invention is to provide a composition comprising at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, a) Sunflower wax; b) at least 15% of a branched chain primary monoalcohol containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably octyldodecanol; c) at least one alkyl-cellulose, the alkyl residue of which contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethyl-cellulose; and d) tribehenin, and e) at least one further liquid fatty substance chosen from hydrocarbon oils, in particular hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin It is an anhydrous cosmetic composition consisting only of

[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention provides a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 3% to 20% by weight, preferably 4% to 15% by weight, more preferably 6% to 12% by weight of sunflower wax; b) 15% to 70% by weight, preferably 30% to 70% by weight, in particular 40% to 60% by weight, of primary monoalcohols with branched chains containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms; c) 1% to 8%, preferably 2% to 6%, in particular 2.5% to 4%, by weight of alkylcelluloses in which the alkyl residue contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms; d) 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 1% by weight, of tribehenin; and e) 5% to 30% by weight, preferably 10% to 25% by weight, of further liquid fatty substances selected from hydrocarbon oils, in particular hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin. The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:

[0131] use: Another object of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for protecting, caring for and / or cosmetically applying to the lips.

[0132] The present invention also relates to the above-mentioned use, in which the composition according to the invention is packaged in a deformable tube.

[0133] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for protecting and / or caring for the lips, which comprises the step of applying to the lips a composition as described above. [Example]

[0134] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the following non-limiting examples. The compounds or ingredients used are named by their INCI names. Unless otherwise specified, the percentages shown are percentages by weight. The expression "qsp" means that the amount of a composition must be sufficient to reach 100% of its final weight. The word "nd" means "not determined."

[0135] The compositions described in Examples 1 to 16 were prepared according to the procedures described below in the proportions given in % in Tables 1 to 4. The different compositions were also evaluated in terms of their organoleptic properties (appearance, color, odor), their stability over time under various conditions as detailed below, and their application properties. In the following Tables 1 to 4, - The terms "Inv." or "Comp." refer to a composition "according to the invention" or a "comparison" composition (outside the invention), respectively. - "Gel", "antiox.", "pH adj." and "pigm." refer to ingredient types, which are "gelling agent", "antioxidant", "pH adjuster" and "pigment", respectively. - The left column heading "P" indicates the phase in which the component occurs. - The references in brackets (next to the INCI name of the compound) refer to the brand names of ingredients used and containing these components. Details of these ingredients are provided below: (1) EUTANOL G (INCI name: Octyldodecanol) sold by BASF. (2) CELLOSIZE OIL 100 ETHYLCELLULOSE (INCI Name: Ethylcellulose (and) Aqua / Water / EAU (and) Propyl Gallate) manufactured by THE DOW CHEMICAL COMPANY. (3) BENTONE GEL EUG V (INCI name: Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) sold by SACI-CFPA SA. (4) Versagel SQ 1600 T (INCI name: Squalane (and) Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer (and) Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate) sold by AZELIS. (5) DISM BIOSYNTHIS (INCI name: diisostearyl malate) sold by BIOSYNTHIS SARL. (6) DISM10M5 (INCI name: diisostearyl malate (and) silica) sold by KOBO PRODUCTS. (7) KAHLWAX 6607L (INCI Name: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax and Ascorbyl Palmitate and Tocopherol and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil) available from INGRETECH. (8) Blue Lotus Flower Essential Wax (INCI name: Nymphaea coerulea flower extract) sold by HUILES BERTIN SAS. (9) CERABEIL BLANCHE SELECTION (INCI name: CERA ALBA / beeswax / beeswax) sold by UNIVAR SOLUTIONS. (11) FAIR TRADE ORGANIC KARITE BUTTER (INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter) sold by OLVEA SAS. (12) MAXI-LIP (INCI name: Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Tribehenin (and) Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Lactic Acid (and) Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1) sold by SEDERMA (CRODA Group). (13) SYNCROWAX HRC (INCI name: tribehenin) manufactured by CRODA. (14) COVIOX T-90 EU C (INCI name: Tocopherol and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil) sold by BASF. (15) TOCOPHEROL ACETATE (INCI name: Tocopherol acetate) sold by BASF. (16) 90% LACTIC ACID (INCI name: Lactic acid (and) aqua / water / eau) sold by UNIVAR SOLUTIONS. (17) SUNSIL-150H (INCI name: Silica) sold by IMPAG France. (m) Mash obtained by mixing 25% DC RED 7 C 19003 (INCI name: CI 15850) sold by SUN CHEMICAL MAPRECOS with 75% DISM (INCI name: diisostearyl malate) sold by BIOSYNTHIS (France). [Table 1]

[0136] Table 1 shows that formulations 1 to 3 are very similar in terms of composition, and all three contain tribehenin (20% by weight in the material sold under the name MAXI LIP, i.e., 0.2% by weight of each composition). Comparative formulation 1 differs from compositions 2 and 3 according to the invention in that it does not contain alkyl-cellulose, where a different hectorite-based thickener is used. This composition is unstable according to a stability test carried out at 50°C for one month using the procedure described below (oil release on the surface). In contrast, and surprisingly, compositions 2 and 3 according to the invention are stable even at 50°C for one month.

[0137] Composition 4 is a further example of a composition according to the present invention, which contains a particular combination of ingredients. Surprisingly, this composition is stable for one month at 50°C, even in the presence of large amounts of beeswax. [Table 2]

[0138] Table 2 shows that comparative formulations 5 and 6 differ from composition 7 according to the invention primarily in that they do not contain tribehenin. In addition, composition 5 is gelled using an olefin copolymer rather than an alkyl-cellulose. Composition 5 is not stable (inhomogeneous) after storage at room temperature and after storage at 40°C for 3 months. Composition 6 is also unstable (presence of grains) after storage at room temperature. Surprisingly, composition 7 according to the invention has satisfactory stability under the test conditions. [Table 3]

[0139] Formulations 9-12 in Table 3 differ only in their tribehenin content. Stability tests show that comparative formulation 9, which does not contain tribehenin, is unstable (recrystallization phenomenon with the presence of grains) after successive storage at 50°C for one month and then at room temperature for one month. Compositions 10-12 contain 0.2%, 0.4%, and 1% tribehenin, respectively. In contrast to formulation 9, and surprisingly, these compositions 10-12, which contain specific combinations of ingredients, are stable under the test conditions despite the presence of additional waxy or pasty compounds that may also promote recrystallization (beeswax, blue lotus extract, butter). [Table 4]

[0140] Formulations 13-16 in Table 4 are further examples of more minimal compositions, i.e., containing few ingredients.

[0141] Formulations 13 and 14 have very similar compositions, both containing 7% sunflower wax. Comparative Formulation 13 does not contain tribehenin, which does not meet stability requirements (especially after storage in TA). On the other hand, Composition 14 according to the present invention contains a specific combination of ingredients, but has satisfactory stability under the test conditions.

[0142] Formulations 15 and 16 have very similar compositions, both containing 11.66% sunflower wax. Stability testing shows that comparative formulation 15, even without tribehenin, causes instability. In contrast, composition 16 according to the present invention has a stable texture under the test conditions.

[0143] Procedure for Compositions 1-16: Phase A is prepared by mixing and melting the corresponding components by heating at 90°C (using a hot plate) at 200-400 rpm (revolutions per minute) under Rayneri stirring with a deflocculator. The mixture is allowed to stand at 90°C with stirring at approximately 500 rpm until completely melted and homogenized, forming an ethyl-cellulose gel. The mixture is then cooled to 85°C and allowed to stand.

[0144] When the resulting mixture (phase A) reaches a temperature of 85°C, phase B is added under Rayneri stirring (approximately 500 rpm) equipped with a deflocculator. Agitation is maintained at 85°C until homogenized. If necessary, agitation is increased. The mixture is then cooled and allowed to settle while stirring (approximately 200 rpm).

[0145] When the resulting mixture (phases A and B) reaches a temperature of 40°C, phase C is added and stirring is maintained until homogenized.

[0146] When the resulting mixture reaches a temperature of approximately 35°C, it is poured into a container (such as a pot or tube).

[0147] A solid composition (400 g) was obtained with a gelled appearance, a balm consistency, and a light pink color. The composition also has a milky white appearance, which is enhanced by applying a 2 mm layer of the composition to a contrast card (black and white stripes on a transparent, visible card).

[0148] Evaluation Method: Viscosity measurement: Viscosity was measured after preparing the anhydrous compositions and storing them in a 20°C oven for 24 hours. Viscosity was measured at an ambient temperature of approximately 20°C using the measuring device described above (Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with a Helipath system). This device measures the torque required to rotate a moving object of a given size, "M" (selected according to the manufacturer's standard operating recommendations), immersed in the fluid being tested at a given speed, "V." Here, viscosity is measured using a moving object number 95 at a speed of 10 rpm (revolutions per minute). Measurements are expressed in cP (centipoise or mPa.s). Viscosity measurements are listed in Tables 1-4.

[0149] Stability assessment: The stability of the solid compositions was investigated after storage under various conditions, particularly accelerated aging in a temperature-controlled oven at 50°C for one month. For each composition, five glass bottles were tested for stability: three months at room temperature (RT) in the dark, three months at 4°C in the dark (controlled temperature test), three months at 40°C, one month at 50°C, and one month of temperature cycling (automated temperature cycling from -10°C to 25°C every 12 hours). After storage for a set time (t) under these various conditions, the quality and color of the samples were evaluated by sensory analysis (appearance, color, and odor). The sensory evaluation consisted of visually assessing the overall characteristics of the samples (color, any sedimentation, presence of any grain, any release of oil on the surface, consistency of hardness and / or consistency over time) and the odor of the samples after storage, compared to control compositions stored in the dark (control composition at 4°C to compare color and odor; control composition at TA to compare texture and application).

[0150] The stability results after storage under the various conditions tested (listed in Tables 1 to 4 above) show that the comparative compositions are not stable (salting out and / or recrystallization phenomena). In contrast, the compositions according to the present invention, which contain a specific combination of ingredients, are stable and homogeneous, retaining their thick, gelled balm texture over time. In particular, they retain their organoleptic properties over time.

[0151] Performance and sensory evaluation: The sensory properties (texture and sensation during and after application) of composition 3 according to the invention are compared with those of a lip balm containing ingredients of conventional petrochemical origin (comparative composition 17), which has good sensory properties, in particular good smoothness and good spreadability, giving a soft, gelled texture that leaves a sufficiently uniform film upon application (no loss of thickness upon application).

[0152] Comparative composition 17 based on petrochemical components is prepared in the proportions shown in Table 5 below according to the procedure described below. [Table 5]

[0153] Comparative Composition 17 is prepared by mixing all the ingredients of Phase A in a beaker. The mixture is heated to 85°C under Rayneri stirring (approximately 300 rpm) until the ingredients are completely melted and homogenized. The mixture is cooled under Rayneri stirring (approximately 150 rpm) until a temperature of approximately 35°C is reached. At this temperature, the mixture is filled into containers (pots or tubes). A solid composition with a gelled appearance and a consistent balsamic texture is obtained. The composition also has a certain translucency, which can be confirmed by applying a 2 mm layer of the composition to a contrast card (black and white stripes on a transparent, visible card).

[0154] Composition 17 and Composition 3 have similar consistency and viscosity.

[0155] The sensory attributes are evaluated by a panel of five experts (trained in sensory techniques). The two products are evaluated (in turn) under a single argument as described below.

[0156] The composition is applied to each lip, which has been pre-cleansed with a two-phase makeup remover. The descriptors evaluated are divided into three categories as follows: ● For application: - Slipperiness (the product's ability to glide and spread during application, as opposed to a braking-like sensation) is rated on a scale of 0 (product with no slipperiness, difficult to spread throughout application) to 10 (product very smooth by the end of application). - Film Thickness (product consistency or thickness measured by gently pressing the product onto the lips with the middle finger) is rated on a scale of 0 (not thick product, no film sensation on the lips) to 10 (very thick product). ● Immediately after application: - Greasy or oily sensation (the ability of the product to leave a greasy, residual film on the lip surface) is rated on a scale of 0 (non-greasy film) to 10 (very greasy product on the skin). - Stickiness (the ability of the product to stick to the skin, measured by pressing the product against the lips using the middle finger, has the impression of lifting the skin) is rated on a scale of 0 (non-sticky product) to 10 (very sticky product). - Rate radiance (the product's ability to reflect light by tilting your lips to catch it) on a scale of 0 (matte, no-radiance skin) to 10 (very radiant skin). ● 2 minutes after application: - Stickiness (the ability of the product to stick to the skin, measured by pressing the product against the lips using the middle finger, has the impression of lifting the skin) is rated on a scale of 0 (non-sticky product) to 10 (very sticky product). - Rate radiance (the product's ability to reflect light by tilting your lips to catch it) on a scale of 0 (matte, no-radiance skin) to 10 (very radiant skin).

[0157] The sensory evaluation results using the average values ​​of five expert panelists are listed in Table 6. [Table 6]

[0158] Composition 3 according to the invention allows for easy and pleasant spreading, with sensory properties comparable to those of commercially available high-performance compositions essentially composed of conventional fatty substances of petrochemical origin, such as petrolatum, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, or microcrystalline wax. Composition 3 also has a gel-like appearance (non-waxy appearance) and a strong shine comparable to that of composition 17, which is based on petrochemical ingredients. In addition, composition 3 according to the invention has very pleasing properties in terms of texture on the lips and film thickness (it does not liquefy upon application), which allow composition 3 to remain in the form of a thick, enveloping film that protects the lips and prevents them from drying out.

[0159] Evaluation of moisturizing effect on skin: Moisturizing properties are evaluated based on a composition 18 according to the present invention with all active ingredients (including moisturizing actives) removed.

[0160] Composition 18 is prepared according to the procedure for Composition 12 in the proportions shown in Table 7 below. [Table 7]

[0161] The evaluation is based on the well-known principle of skin moisture meters, which measure the hydration level of the upper layers of the skin by repeatedly measuring the capacitance on the skin surface. The measurement system comprises electrodes, a low-dielectric vitrified material that prevents galvanic contact between the electrodes and the skin surface, and a spring system for applying a constant pressure to the skin surface. Here, measurements are performed using a CM825 skin moisture meter connected to a Cutometer dual MPA 580®, MPA 6®, or MPA 2® (Courage & Khazaka, Germany).

[0162] The evaluation was carried out on a panel of 30 women aged between 18 and 65 years. A pre-acclimation period was required in which the volunteers were placed in a controlled environment with constant temperature (T) and relative humidity (RH) (T = 21°C ± 1°C, RH = 50% ± 10%). Measurements were taken on the volar forearm (area free of hair, wounds or scars) at time t0 (before application of the product) and at times t = 30 minutes, 2 hours, 4 hours and 8 hours after application of the product. Control measurements were also carried out on an unused area to check for any external influences. The composition was applied at a concentration of 2 mg / cm2. 2 Apply the solution to a 2.5 x 2.5 cm (6.25 cm2) area to be measured using the pad of a finger in a ratio of 1. To sample the entire area, three consecutive measurements are taken and the measurements are averaged.

[0163] The evaluation results, using the average scores of the 30 panelists, are listed in Table 8. [Table 8]

[0164] The results show that composition 18 according to the present invention promotes skin hydration 30 minutes, 2 hours, 4 hours and 8 hours after application.

[0165] Thus, the specific combination according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain compositions with a uniform, flexible, non-sticky, enveloping texture that reproduces the sensory properties of formulations based on fatty substances of petrochemical origin, while increasing their naturalness. Additionally, the compositions used according to the present invention do not require the use of petrochemical fatty substances or plastic powders and meet stability requirements even in hot climates. Furthermore, the compositions according to the present invention have a "gel-like" rather than waxy appearance and are more lustrous. They also promote skin hydration. Finally, the stable yet flexible texture provided by the compositions according to the present invention means that they can be packaged in tubes with very small openings (as small as 0.2 mm) without the need for strong deformation of the tube to release the product. This is advantageous in terms of convenience and ease of use.

[0166] In conclusion, the compositions according to the invention, which contain the specific combination claimed, make it possible to combine all the desired properties: stability, consistency that is both firm and elastic, performance and feel (ease of application, softness, slipperiness, glossy texture, low stickiness, consistency, enveloping film). Finally, the compositions according to the invention leave the lips soft and nourished, protect them from dryness and promote repair.

[0167] The particular combination of ingredients used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a soft, elastic, solid composition that has a high degree of naturalness while at the same time providing the required sensory and stability properties.

Claims

1. 1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a flexible solid, comprising: a) sunflower wax; b) at least 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a branched chain primary monoalcohol containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; c) alkyl-celluloses, the alkyl residues of which contain 1 to 4 carbon atoms; d) tribehenin 1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:

2. 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 ５ 2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, having a viscosity in the range of 150,000 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s (at 1000 kJ / 2000 kcal / min).

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition does not comprise a hydrophilic phase.

4. 4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass content of said sunflower wax is at least 3%, preferably at least 4%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

5. 5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the mass content of said branched-chain primary monoalcohol is at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass, more preferably at least 50% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

6. The branched chain primary monoalcohol has the general formula CH ３ - (CH ２ ) ｎ -CH(CH ２ —OH)—(CH ２ ) ｎー２ -CH ３ A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, having the general formula: wherein n is an integer ranging from 5 to 12, preferably from 6 to 10.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the branched chain primary monoalcohol is selected from hexyldecanol, heptylundecanol, octyldodecanol or mixtures thereof.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the branched chain primary monoalcohol is octyldodecanol.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein said alkyl-cellulose is selected from methyl-cellulose, ethyl-cellulose, ethylmethyl-cellulose, propylcellulose or mixtures thereof.

10. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein said alkyl-cellulose is ethyl-cellulose.

11. 11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said alkyl-cellulose to the amount of said branched chain primary monoalcohol is from 1:5 to 1:30, preferably from 1:10 to 1:

25.

12. 12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the mass content of tribehenin is less than 1% relative to the total mass of the composition.

13. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, which also comprises at least one beeswax.

14. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition is free of fatty substances of petrochemical origin selected from mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene and microcrystalline waxes.

15. 15. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of plastic powders of petrochemical origin selected from compounds having the INCI designations methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene, ethylene / methacrylate copolymer, nylon 6, nylon-6 / 12, nylon-12, HDI / trimethylolhexylacetone crosspolymer and polyethylene terephthalate.

16. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition contains at least 70%, preferably at least 75%, of ingredients of natural origin according to the NF ISO 16128 standard.

17. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 for protecting, caring for and / or making up the lips.

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