Composition suitable for skin care
A composition with polyglutamic acid, neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer, and hydrophobic inorganic filler addresses stability and application issues, offering smooth and moisturizing skin care benefits.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2024101215
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-24
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-13
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions containing insoluble powders face stability issues leading to precipitation, and they often lack good spreadability and smoothness during and after application, which affects customer satisfaction.
A composition comprising polyglutamic acid or its salt, neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer, hydrophobic inorganic filler, and optionally hyaluronic acid, which provides stability, good spreadability, and smoothness by forming a film-like network structure and minimizing friction.
The composition maintains stability, ensures smooth application with minimal friction, and provides a matte finish while enhancing moisturization and reducing stickiness, making it suitable for skin care products.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, which is stable and can provide a good feeling when used. [Background technology]
[0002] There is a great demand for cosmetic compositions that contain insoluble powders but are stable without causing precipitation of the insoluble powders.
[0003] In addition, providing a good feeling when used on keratinous materials such as skin is one of the main characteristics of cosmetics, particularly skin cosmetics. In particular, good spreadability with little friction during application and smoothness after application are often essential for customer satisfaction. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0004] [Patent Document 1] U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725 [Patent Document 2] JP-A-2014-088307 [Patent Document 3] JP-A-2014-218433 [Patent Document 4] JP-A-2018-177620 [Non-patent literature]
[0005] [Non-Patent Document 1] Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990. [Non-patent document 2] The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938 [Non-patent document 3] Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. [Non-patent document 4] Barrett, EP; Joyner, LG; Halenda, PP, J. Am. Chem. Soc. 73, 373 (1951) [Non-Patent Document 5] D. Campoccia et al., "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) pp. 2101-2127 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0006] An object of the present invention is to provide a stable composition that can provide good spreadability during application and smoothness after application. [Means for solving the problem]
[0007] The above object of the present invention is to (a) at least one polyglutamic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer; (c) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler; This can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a dermocosmetic composition, comprising:
[0008] The amount of (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 3% by mass, preferably 0.005% by mass to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% by mass to 0.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0009] (b) Neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymers may be fully or partially neutralized, preferably partially neutralized.
[0010] (b) The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be in whole or in part in the form of a salt, preferably a metal salt, more preferably an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt.
[0011] (b) The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer has the following formula (I): -[CH(R 1 )-C(R 2 )(COO-M + )]- (I) [In the formula, R 1 and R 2 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl, and preferably R 1 and R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, M + is H + or a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion, more preferably M + represents an alkali metal cation, for example, a sodium cation] The compound may have a repeat unit represented by:
[0012] (b) The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be a crosslinked homopolymer.
[0013] The amount of (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 4% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0014] (c) The hydrophobic inorganic filler may be selected from hydrophobically modified metal oxides, preferably hydrophobically modified silica, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0015] (c) The hydrophobic inorganic filler may be selected from hydrophobic silica, preferably from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, more preferably from hydrophobic aerogels of silica silylate.
[0016] The amount of (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 3% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 0.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0017] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one hyaluronic acid component selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid derivatives, hyaluronic acid derivative salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0018] The amount of the (d) hyaluronic acid component in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% to 3% by mass, preferably 0.005% to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% to 0.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0019] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one polysaccharide, preferably (e) the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of algae extracts, gums and cellulose derivatives, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, fermented polysaccharides such as biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2 and biosaccharide gum-4, and mixtures thereof, more preferably (e) the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, fermented polysaccharides such as biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2 and biosaccharide gum-4, and mixtures thereof.
[0020] The amount of (e) polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 3% by mass, preferably 0.005% by mass to 2% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0021] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0022] As a result of intensive research, the present inventors have found that it is possible to provide a stable composition that can provide good spreadability during application and smoothness after application.
[0023] Therefore, one aspect of the present invention is (a) at least one polyglutamic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer; (c) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler; A composition comprising:
[0024] The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide good spreadability during application and smoothness after application.
[0025] The compositions according to the invention are suitable for skin care.
[0026] The compositions according to the present invention are (c) stable such that no or only minimal precipitation of the hydrophobic inorganic filler occurs in the composition.
[0027] The compositions according to the invention are stable both immediately after preparation and for a long time after preparation, even at elevated temperatures. Thus, the compositions according to the invention are stable over time and can be stored for long periods of time even under hot conditions, for example in summer.
[0028] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a good feeling in use, in particular good spreadability during application and smoothness after application.
[0029] In this specification, good spreadability means ease of application with little friction, i.e., smooth application and spreadability. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is preferable for use as a skin cosmetic.
[0030] In this specification, smoothness after application means a smooth feel with no or little stickiness after application. The term "stickiness" refers to the property of imparting a sticky feel to the skin. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is preferable for use in skin cosmetics.
[0031] (a) Polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof is mucilaginous, water-absorbent, and film-forming. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention containing (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof can have good fluidity and contribute to good spreadability with less friction during application. Meanwhile, after application, (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof can contribute to long-lasting moisturizing and smoothness.
[0032] The (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler in the composition according to the present invention can also contribute to the smoothness of the composition after application.
[0033] In addition, (c) the hydrophobic inorganic filler can be uniformly dispersed in the composition according to the present invention due to the action of (b) the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer, so that the (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler forms a film-like network structure. It is believed that the network structure formed by the (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler contributes to the smooth spreading of the composition according to the present invention with less friction during application.
[0034] Furthermore, (c) the hydrophobic inorganic filler can also provide a matte finish effect if it can absorb oil or sebum.
[0035] The compositions according to the present invention may also provide additional benefits.
[0036] Generally, the use of a relatively large amount of synthetic polymer in the composition can cause the formation of particles in the form of noodles after application of the composition due to aggregation of the synthetic polymer, which may be undesirable in some cases.
[0037] However, even when the composition according to the present invention contains a relatively large amount of (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer, the composition according to the present invention can suppress the formation of noodles after application.
[0038] When the composition according to the present invention further comprises (d) hyaluronic acid component, the yield stress of the composition according to the present invention can be further reduced, and the spreadability of the composition according to the present invention can be further enhanced. In addition, the (d) hyaluronic acid component can further enhance the moisturizing effect.
[0039] When the composition according to the present invention further comprises water, the composition according to the present invention can provide a good hydrating effect and a refreshing feeling, and can also provide a moist feeling as if the inside of the skin is well moisturized and water has penetrated deep into the skin.
[0040] The present invention will now be described in more detail.
[0041] [Composition] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one polyglutamic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer; (c) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler; Includes.
[0042] (Polyglutamic acid or its salt) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one type of polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof. A single type of polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof may be used, or two or more different types of polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof may be used in combination.
[0043] (a) Polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof has the following chemical formula (1): ROOC-CH2CH2-CH(-COOR)-NH-[CO-CH2CH2-CH(-COOR)-NH-] n -CO-CH2CH2-CH(-COOR)-NH2(1) [wherein R independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom such as a sodium atom or a potassium atom, or an ammonium group such as a tetramethylammonium group or a tetraethylammonium group; n is an integer of 2 or more, preferably 4 or more, and more preferably 6 or more. It may have a chemical structure represented by:
[0044] The polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof represented by the above chemical formula (1) can be called a γ-polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof because the carboxylic acid group at the γ-position and the amino group at the α-position form a peptide bond.
[0045] (a) It may be preferable that the molecular weight of polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof is 1000 or more and the degree of polymerization is 8 or more ("n" in the above chemical formula (1) is 6 or more).
[0046] (a) It may be more preferable that the molecular weight of the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof is 100,000 or more and the degree of polymerization is 770 or more ("n" in the above chemical formula (1) is 768 or more).
[0047] (a) It may be even more preferable that the molecular weight of the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof is 500,000 or more and the degree of polymerization is 3840 or more ("n" in the above chemical formula (1) is 3838 or more).
[0048] (a) There is no upper limit to the molecular weight of polyglutamic acid or its salt.
[0049] However, the molecular weight of (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof may be 5,000,000 or less, and the degree of polymerization may be 38,500 or less ("n" in the above chemical formula (1) is 38,498 or less), and preferably, the molecular weight of (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof may be 3,000,000 or less, and the degree of polymerization may be 23,080 or less ("n" in the above chemical formula (1) is 23,078 or less).
[0050] (a) Glutamic acid, which is a constituent amino acid of polyglutamic acid or its salts, may be in the D-form, L-form, or racemic form. However, in consideration of commercial availability, biocompatibility, and biodegradability, it may be preferable to use polyglutamic acid composed only of L-form glutamic acid or polyglutamic acid composed of a mixture of L- and D-form glutamic acid. However, polyglutamic acid composed of D-form glutamic acid, which has the same effect but is less degradable, can also be used.
[0051] The method for producing (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof is not particularly limited. Examples include organic synthesis using a peptide synthesizer, organic synthesis by polymerization of glutamate N-carboxylic anhydride, and organic synthesis by polymerization of N-benzyloxycarbonyl glutamic anhydride. On the other hand, microorganisms belonging to the genus Bacillus capable of producing γ-polyglutamic acid (particularly Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus anthracis, Bacillus licheniformis, and Bacillus megaterium capable of producing γ-polyglutamic acid) can also be used in the fermentation method for producing (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof.
[0052] The culture medium used in the fermentation method includes natural culture media consisting of natural products such as shochu distillery wastewater culture media and soybean extract culture media, as well as the following ingredients: carbon sources such as glucose, fructose, galactose, sucrose, maltose, mannose, lactose, glycerol, and starch; inorganic nitrogen sources such as ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphate, and ammonium chloride; an organic nitrogen source such as glutamic acid or a salt thereof, or aspartic acid or a salt thereof; Major inorganic salts such as sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, monopotassium phosphate, phosphorus and disodium hydrogen phosphate, trace amounts of inorganic salts containing atoms such as iron, copper, zinc, cobalt, nickel, boron, manganese, molybdenum, tin, selenium, silicon, arsenic, vanadium, chromium, and fluorine; Vitamins such as biotin, nicotinamide, calcium pantothenate, thiamine, riboflavin, and pyridoxine hydrochloride; organic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and glycolic acid; Natural product extracts such as yeast extract, meat extract, potato extract, tomato extract, and soybean peptides Any synthetic or semi-synthetic medium consisting of any one of the above may be used at any concentration.
[0053] The culture conditions for the microorganisms may be set in the range of 20° C. to 37° C. and may be further controlled during the microbial growth process and the polyglutamic acid production process, and the pH may be set in the range of 5.0 to 8.0 and may be further controlled during the microbial growth process and the polyglutamic acid production process.
[0054] After the culture is completed, (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof can be extracted from the culture medium and purified by any known method such as acid precipitation, solvent precipitation, or membrane purification.
[0055] (a) As the polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof, it is preferable to use polyglutamic acid or an alkali metal salt thereof, such as sodium polyglutamate.
[0056] Commercially available products may be used as the (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof. Examples of (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof include Hyafactor (trademark) PGA-HM sold by Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. in China, and Bio-PGA Solution HE, HB, LB, and LE, as well as Bio PGA Na powder sold by Ichimaru Pharcos Co., Ltd. in Japan.
[0057] The amount of (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by mass or more, preferably 0.005% by mass or more, more preferably 0.01% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0058] On the other hand, the amount of (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by mass or less, preferably 1% by mass or less, and more preferably 0.5% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0059] Therefore, the amount of (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 3% by mass, preferably 0.005% by mass to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% by mass to 0.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0060] (Neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer) The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer. A single type of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be used, while two or more different types of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymers may be used in combination.
[0061] The (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may have water-absorbing properties, and therefore, the (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be a water-absorbing polymer.
[0062] In one particular embodiment of the present invention, (b) the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may have a water absorption capacity of 10 g or more, preferably 20 g or more, more preferably 50 g or more, per gram of polymer at 25°C and 1 atm, and / or a water absorption capacity of 2,000 g or less, preferably 1,500 g or less, more preferably 1,000 g or less.
[0063] (b) The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be applied in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles. 50 The average primary particle diameter of the term "D" is not particularly limited, but is generally 0.1 μm or more, preferably 0.5 μm or more, more preferably 1 μm or more, and / or 200 μm or less, preferably 100 μm or less, more preferably 50 μm or less. 50 " means herein that 50% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles is D 50 50% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles is D 50 The particle size is greater than D. 50 The value can be determined by laser diffraction, for example using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as a Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
[0064] The (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be water-soluble, and therefore may be included in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention when the composition according to the present invention includes water.
[0065] The (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be wholly or partially neutralized. Preferably, the (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be partially neutralized. The (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be wholly or partially in the form of a salt, preferably a metal salt, more preferably an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt. The molar ratio of the neutralized portion to the non-neutralized portion is not particularly limited, but is generally 10 mol% or more, 20 mol% or more, 30 mol% or more, or 40 mol% or more, and / or 90 mol% or less, 80 mol% or less, 70 mol% or less, or 60 mol% or less.
[0066] (b) The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, and preferably, (b) the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is a homopolymer.
[0067] (b) The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer has the following formula (I): -[CH(R 1 )-C(R 2 )(COO-M + )]- (I) [In the formula, R 1 and R 2 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl, and preferably R 1 and R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, M + is H + or a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion, more preferably M + represents an alkali metal cation, for example, a sodium cation] The compound may have a repeat unit represented by:
[0068] The number of repeats of the above repeat unit according to formula (I) is 2 or more.
[0069] The (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer having repeat units according to formula (I) is represented by formula (Ia): HC(R 1 )=C(R 2 )-COO - M + (Ia) [In the formula, R 1 , R 2 and M + is as defined above] can be derived by polymerizing several identical monomers (in which case it is a homopolymer) or several different monomers (in which case it is a copolymer) selected from the following in the presence of at least one polymerization initiator (e.g., a UV initiator) to obtain a polymer of formula (I) as defined above.
[0070] (b) The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be crosslinked.
[0071] Crosslinking of the (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer can be carried out, for example, by applying at least one crosslinking agent to the (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer by spraying.
[0072] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, (b) the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is a crosslinked homopolymer. Particular mention may be made of sodium polyacrylate sold under the name AQUPEC MG N40R, which is crosslinked and partially neutralized, and is also called sodium carbomer.
[0073] The amount of (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0074] On the other hand, the amount of (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by mass or less, preferably 4% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0075] Therefore, the amount of (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 4% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0076] (hydrophobic inorganic filler) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler. A single type of hydrophobic inorganic filler may be used, or two or more different types of hydrophobic inorganic fillers may be used in combination.
[0077] The term "mineral filler" should be understood herein to mean colorless or white inorganic particles that are insoluble in the liquid components that may be present in the composition according to the invention, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is prepared.
[0078] The inorganic filler may include metal oxides, preferably silica, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] Inorganic fillers suitable for the present invention may, for example, be fillers with an average particle size of less than 100 μm, in particular between 1 and 50 μm, for example between 4 and 20 μm.
[0080] The term "hydrophobic" means that the inorganic filler can be dispersed individually in oil so that no agglomerates are formed.
[0081] (c) The hydrophobic inorganic filler may be porous or non-porous.
[0082] (c) The hydrophobic inorganic filler may or may not be capable of absorbing (and / or adsorbing) oil or liquid fatty substances, such as sebum (from the skin). Preferably, the (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler is capable of absorbing (and / or adsorbing) oil or liquid fatty substances, such as sebum (from the skin).
[0083] (c) The hydrophobic inorganic filler may have an oil absorption capacity of 100 ml / 100 g or more, preferably 150 ml / 100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml / 100 g or more.
[0084] (c) The amount of oil absorbed (and / or adsorbed) by the hydrophobic inorganic filler can be determined as follows.
[0085] The amount of oil absorbed (and / or adsorbed) can be measured according to the method for determining the oil absorption of powders described in NF standard T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed / adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder by measuring the wetting point Wp, and corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of powder to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0086] An amount of powder m = 2 g is placed on a glass plate, and then oil (such as ester oil and silicone oil) is added dropwise. After adding 4-5 drops of oil to the powder, it is mixed using a spatula, and the addition of oil is continued until an agglomerate of oil and powder is formed. At this point, the oil is added drop by drop, and then the mixture is ground with the spatula. When a firm, smooth paste is obtained, the addition of oil is stopped. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of the oil used is then noted. The oil absorption corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.
[0087] Alternatively, oil absorption capacity can be measured according to JIS-K6217-4.
[0088] (c) The hydrophobic inorganic filler may have at least one inorganic core and at least one hydrophobic coating.
[0089] The inorganic core may comprise at least one material selected from the group consisting of silica, silicates, perlite, boron nitride, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, kaolin, talc, and mixtures thereof.
[0090] The hydrophobic coating can be formed by a hydrophobic treating agent which can be selected in particular from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, inorganic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] The N-acylamino acid may contain an acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. Salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.
[0092] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the above compounds denotes in particular alkyl groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0093] Preferably, (c) the hydrophobic inorganic filler is selected from hydrophobically modified metal oxides, more preferably from hydrophobically modified silica, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. The hydrophobically modified metal oxide may have at least one hydrophobic coating on the metal oxide particles.
[0094] Preferably, (c) the hydrophobic inorganic filler may be selected from hydrophobic silicas, especially silica silylate.
[0095] The term "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean any silica particle whose surface has been treated to make it hydrophobic. Hydrophobic silica or hydrophobic silica particles may have at least one hydrophobic coating on the silica particle.
[0096] (c) The hydrophobic inorganic filler is preferably selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, more preferably from hydrophobic silica silylate aerogels.
[0097] Hydrophobic silica, especially silica silylates, may be based on silica aerogel, a porous material obtained by replacing the liquid component of silica gel with air (by drying).
[0098] They are generally synthesized via the sol-gel method in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid pore and material shrinkage. The sol-gel method and various drying procedures are described in detail in Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
[0099] Aerogels are highly porous materials. In this specification, silica aerogel generally refers to solid silica with a porous structure obtained by drying wet silica gel while maintaining the solid silica network, thereby replacing the media contained in the wet silica gel with air. Porosity is expressed as the amount of air contained in the apparent volume of the material, expressed as a volume percentage. The hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention can have a porosity of 60% or more, preferably 70% or more, and more preferably 80% or more.
[0100] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are 500~1,500m 2 / g, preferably 600 to 1,200m 2 / g, more preferably 600 to 800m 2Specific surface area (SW) per mass unit in the range / g, and / or A size expressed as a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) in the range of 1 to 1,500 μm, preferably 1 to 1,000 μm, more preferably 1 to 100 μm, in particular 1 to 30 μm, even more preferably 5 to 25 μm, even more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and even more preferably 5 to 15 μm. can be presented.
[0101] The specific surface area per mass unit can be determined by a nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, which is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938, and corresponds to International Standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
[0102] The size of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer, the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. Data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles and allows the determination of the "effective" particle size for non-spherical particles. This theory is described in detail in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0103] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are advantageously 0.04 g / cm 3 ~0.10g / cm 3 , preferably 0.05 g / cm 3 ~0.08g / cm 3 It can exhibit a packing density (r) in the range of
[0104] In the context of the present invention, this density, known as packing density, can be assessed according to the following protocol: Pour 40g of powder into a graduated cylinder; The graduated cylinder is then placed in a Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 device; The graduated cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 filling operations (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); The final volume Vf of the packed powder is then measured directly in the measuring cylinder. The packing density is determined by the w / Vf ratio (Vf is cm), which in this case is 40 / Vf. 3 and w is expressed as g).
[0105] For the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725.
[0106] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are used.
[0107] (c) Hydrophobic inorganic fillers that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres, in particular those sold under the names Sunsphere® H33 and Sunsphere® H53 (oil absorption equal to 400 ml / 100 g), precipitated silica powders surface-treated with inorganic waxes, such as precipitated silica treated with polyethylene waxes, in particular those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by Evonik-Degussa (oil absorption equal to 398 ml / 100 g), and silica silylate sold under the name VM-2270 by Dow (oil absorption equal to 1,040 ml / 100 g).
[0108] (c) As hydrophobic inorganic filler, it is preferred to use silica silylate sold under the name VM-2270 by Dow, the particles of which have an average size in the range of 5 to 15 μm and a viscosity of 600 to 800 μm. 2 The specific surface area per mass unit in the range of / g is shown.
[0109] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can be characterized by the spherical shape of each particle. This spherical shape allows the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles to provide good smoothness to cosmetic compositions. The sphericity of the hydrophobic silica aerogel can be determined by the average circularity.
[0110] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have an average circularity of 0.8 or more, preferably 0.82 or more. The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an average circularity of less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, even more preferably 0.96 or less, and most preferably 0.95 or less.
[0111] The "average circularity" can be determined by image analysis. In particular, the "average circularity" can be the arithmetic mean of the circularities obtained by image analysis of scanning electron microscope (SEM) images of 2,000 or more aerogel particles observed at 1,000 magnification by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).
[0112] The "roundness" of each aerogel particle is calculated using the following formula: C=4πS / L 2 [where C represents the circularity, S represents the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image, and L represents the perimeter (outer perimeter) of the aerogel particle in the image] The closer the average circularity is to 1, the more spherical the shape of each particle becomes.
[0113] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used as the hydrophobic inorganic filler (c) according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica type (INCI name: silica silylate).Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be those described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433, or JP-A-2018-177620.
[0114] It is preferable to use a hydrophobic aerogel of silica silylate as the inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder.
[0115] The hydrophobicity of the silica silylate aerogel is determined by adding a hydrophobizing agent having the following formula present on the surface of the silica: ≡Si-OH [wherein the symbol "≡" represents the remaining valence of 3 on the Si atom] thereby converting the silanol group to the following formula: (≡Si-O-) (4-n) SiR n [In the formula, n is an integer of 1 to 3, each R is independently a hydrocarbyl group, and when n is 2 or more, two or more R may be the same or different.] can be obtained by converting the group represented by the formula:
[0116] The hydrophobizing agent may be a silylating agent. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, in the hydrophobic aerogel of silica silylate, the silica particles may be surface-modified by silylation. Examples of the silylating agent include a treatment agent having one of the following formulas (1) to (3):
[0117] Formula (1): R n Six (4-n) [In the formula, n represents an integer of 1 to 3, R represents a hydrocarbyl group, and X represents a group that can be eliminated from the molecule by cleaving the bond to the Si atom during reaction with a compound having a hydroxyl group (i.e., a leaving group), and when n is 2 or more, each R may be different, and when n is 2 or less, each X may be different].
[0118] Formula (2):
[0119] [ka]
[0120] [In the formula, R 1 represents an alkylene group, and R 2 and R 3 each independently represents a hydrocarbyl group; R 4 and R 5 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbyl group.
[0121] Formula (3):
[0122] [ka]
[0123] [In the formula, R 6 and R 7 each independently represents a hydrocarbyl group, m represents an integer of 3 to 6, and R 6 If there are two or more R 6 may be different, and R 7 If there are two or more R 7 may be different].
[0124] In the above formula (1), R is a hydrocarbyl group, preferably a hydrocarbyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably a hydrocarbyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably a methyl group.
[0125] Examples of the leaving group represented by X include halogen atoms such as chlorine and bromine, alkoxy groups such as methoxy and ethoxy, and groups represented by -NH-SiR3 (wherein R is defined as R in formula (1)).
[0126] Specific examples of the hydrophobizing agent represented by the above formula (1) include chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, monomethyltrimethoxysilane, monomethyltriethoxysilane, and hexamethyldisilazane.
[0127] Most preferably, in view of favorable reactivity, chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, and / or hexamethyldisilazane may be used.
[0128] The number of bonds between the Si atom and the silanol groups on the silica backbone varies depending on the number of leaving groups X (4-n). For example, when n is 2, the following bonds are formed: (≡Si-O-)2SiR2
[0129] When n is 3, the following combination occurs: ≡Si-O-SiR3
[0130] In this way, the silanol groups can be silylated and thereby hydrophobized.
[0131] In the above formula (2), R 1 may be an alkylene group, preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, particularly preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0132] In the above formula (2), R 2 and R 3 are independently hydrocarbyl groups, and the same preferred groups as those of R in formula (1) can be mentioned. 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbyl group, and when it is a hydrocarbyl group, the same preferred groups as R in formula (1) can be mentioned. When silica gel is treated with a compound represented by formula (2) (cyclic silazane), the reaction with the silanol groups causes cleavage of the Si-N bond, and therefore the following bond is formed on the surface of the silica skeleton in the gel: (≡Si-O-)2SiR 2 R 3
[0133] In this way, the silanol groups can also be silylated with the cyclic silazane of formula (2) above, thereby achieving hydrophobization.
[0134] Specific examples of the cyclic silazane represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisilazane and octamethylcyclotetrasilazane.
[0135] In the above formula (3), R 6 and R 7 are independently hydrocarbyl groups, and the same preferred groups as R in formula (2) can be mentioned. m represents an integer of 3 to 6. When silica gel is treated with a compound (cyclic siloxane) represented by formula (3), the following bonds are formed on the surface of the silica skeleton in the gel: (≡Si-O-)2SiR 6 R 7
[0136] In this way, the silanol groups can also be silylated with the cyclic siloxane of formula (3) above, thereby achieving hydrophobicity.
[0137] Specific examples of the cyclic siloxane represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0138] Silica silylate hydrophobic aerogels can be prepared by producing a silica sol, converting the sol to a gel, aging the gel, washing the aged gel, replacing the water in the washed gel with a solvent, treating the gel with a hydrophobizing agent, and drying the hydrophobized silica.
[0139] The specific surface area of the silica silylate hydrophobic aerogel determined by the BET method is 200 m 2 / g or more, preferably 400m 2 / g or more, more preferably 500m 2 / g or more, and 2 / g or less, preferably 1,000m 2 / g or less, more preferably 800m 2 / g or less.
[0140] The pore volume of the silica silylate hydrophobic aerogel, as determined by the BJH method, may be 1 ml / g or more, preferably 2 ml / g or more, more preferably 3 ml / g or more, and may be 10 ml / g or less, preferably 8 ml / g or less, more preferably 7 ml / g or less.The peak pore radius of the silica silylate hydrophobic aerogel, as determined by the BJH method, may be 5 nm or more, preferably 10 nm or more, more preferably 12 nm or more, and may be 50 nm or less, preferably 40 nm or less, more preferably 30 nm or less.
[0141] "Pore volume determined by the BJH method" refers to the pore volume derived from pores with a pore radius of 1 nm to 100 nm, obtained by analyzing the nitrogen adsorption isotherm obtained by the BJH method (Barrett, EP; Joyner, LG; Halenda, PP, J. Am. Chem. Soc. 73, 373 (1951)) in the same manner as described above in "Specific surface area determined by the BET method." "Peak pore radius determined by the BJH method" refers to the pore radius value that produces a peak in a pore distribution curve (volume distribution curve) plotted on the horizontal axis against the vertical axis, which is the derivative of the cumulative pore volume with respect to the logarithm of the pore radius, obtained by analyzing the nitrogen adsorption isotherm obtained by the BJH method in the same manner as above.
[0142] The silica silylate hydrophobic aerogel may have an average particle size of 0.5 μm or more, preferably 1 μm or more, more preferably 2 μm or more, and may have an average particle size of 30 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 15 μm or less, as measured by image analysis.
[0143] The "average particle size" here can be measured by image analysis. In particular, the "average particle size" value is the arithmetic mean of the equivalent circular diameters, which can be obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of 2,000 or more aerogel particles observed at 1,000x magnification using secondary electron detection. The "equivalent circular diameter" of each aerogel particle is the diameter of a circle having an area equal to the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image.
[0144] Preferably, the oil absorption capacity of the silica silylate hydrophobic aerogel, which can be measured at the wet point as described above, may be 2 ml / g or more, preferably 3 ml / g or more, more preferably 4 ml / g or more, most preferably 5 ml / g or more, and may be 12 ml / g or less, preferably 10 ml / g or less, more preferably 8 ml / g or less, most preferably 7 ml / g or less.
[0145] (c) The hydrophobic inorganic filler is preferably selected from hydrophobically modified metal oxides, more preferably from hydrophobic silica, and even more preferably from silica silylate.
[0146] The amount of (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0147] On the other hand, the amount of (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by mass or less, preferably 1% by mass or less, more preferably 0.5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0148] Therefore, the amount of (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 3% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 0.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0149] (Hyaluronic acid ingredient) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one hyaluronic acid component selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid derivatives, hyaluronic acid derivative salts, and mixtures thereof. A single type of hyaluronic acid component may be used, or two or more different types of hyaluronic acid components may be used in combination.
[0150] Hyaluronic acid is the predominant glycosaminoglycan found in the skin. Therefore, fibroblasts predominantly synthesize collagen, non-collagenous matrix glycoproteins (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans, and elastin. Keratinocytes, for their part, predominantly synthesize sulfated glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is also called hyaluronan.
[0151] Hyaluronic acid exists in free state in epidermis and dermis, and it is responsible for the turgor of skin.This polysaccharide can actually hold a large volume of water, up to 1000 times its mass.In this sense, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in increasing the amount of water bound in tissue, and also in the mechanical properties and wrinkle formation of skin.
[0152] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula:
[0153] [ka]
[0154] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" specifically encompasses the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of the formula:
[0155] [ka]
[0156] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid that contains the disaccharide dimer, D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
[0157] The term "hyaluronic acid," in the context of the present invention, includes linear polymers comprising the above-listed polymer units linked together in a chain via alternating β(1,4) and β(1,3) glycosidic bonds, with molecular weights (Mw) that can range between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons, which depends primarily on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or the method of preparation.
[0158] The term "hyaluronic acid" in the context of the present invention also includes hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid.
[0159] The term "hyaluronic acid derivatives" in the context of the present invention includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic acid groups of the acid function are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular those in which the degree of substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid ranges from 0.5 to 50%.
[0160] Mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid, which are described in detail in D. Campoccia et al., "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) pp. 2101-2127.
[0161] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid.
[0162] The term "hyaluronic acid derivatives" in the context of the present invention also includes cationic hyaluronic acid.
[0163] Cationic hyaluronic acid contains at least one cationic moiety. The cationic moiety is -N + The cationic moiety may be a trialkylammonium group such as (CH3)3. The cationic moiety may contain at least one hydroxyl group. An example of a cationic group is -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N + (CH3)3 is an example.
[0164] An example of a cationic hyaluronic acid is hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate.
[0165] Hyaluronic acid salts or hyaluronic acid derivative salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] The molecular weight of the (d) hyaluronic acid component is not limited. The molecular weight of the (d) hyaluronic acid component may be 5 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and more preferably 100 kDa or more. The molecular weight of the (d) hyaluronic acid component may be 20 MDa or less, preferably 10 MDa or less, and more preferably 2,000 kDa or less. Therefore, the molecular weight of the (d) hyaluronic acid component may be 5 kDa to 20 MDa, preferably 20 kDa to 10 MDa, and more preferably 100 kDa to 2,000 kDa.
[0167] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" may mean weight average molecular weight.
[0168] (d) The hyaluronic acid component is specifically sold by Centipro under the trade name HyActive™ (Mw: 10-150 kDa), by Givaudan under the trade name Cristalhyal™ (registered trademark) (Mw: 1-1.4 MDa), by Bioland under the trade name Nutra™ HA (Mw: 907,600 Da), by Bioland under the trade name Nutra™ HAF (Mw: 74,600 Da), by Bioland under the trade name Oligo™ HA (Mw: 0.5-10.1 kDa), by Res Pharma under the trade name D-Factor™ (registered trademark) (Mw: 380 Da), or by Bloomage Freda Biopharm under the trade name Hybloom™ Sodium Hyaluronate. It may be hyaluronic acid supplied as (HA-T) (MW: 1,000 kDa to 1,800 kDa).
[0169] A single hyaluronic acid component having a single molecular weight or a combination of two or more hyaluronic acid components having different molecular weights may be used as (d) the hyaluronic acid component.
[0170] (d) The hyaluronic acid component is preferably a hyaluronate, more preferably an alkali metal hyaluronate, such as sodium hyaluronate.
[0171] The amount of the (d) hyaluronic acid component in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by mass or more, preferably 0.005% by mass or more, more preferably 0.01% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0172] The amount of the (d) hyaluronic acid component in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] Therefore, the amount of the (d) hyaluronic acid component in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 3% by mass, preferably 0.005% by mass to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% by mass to 0.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0174] (polysaccharide) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one polysaccharide. When two or more polysaccharides are used, they may be the same or different.
[0175] The (e) polysaccharide may be present in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention when the composition according to the present invention comprises water, and may function as a hydrophilic thickener capable of thickening the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0176] (e) The polysaccharide is preferably derived from a microorganism or a plant.
[0177] (e) Polysaccharides derived from microorganisms refer to polysaccharides produced by microorganisms such as pathogens or bacteria.
[0178] Examples of (e) polysaccharides derived from microorganisms include cardulan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0179] It may be preferred that the (e) polysaccharide derived from a microorganism is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. Fermented polysaccharides such as biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2, and biosaccharide gum-4 may also be used.
[0180] On the other hand, (e) polysaccharides derived from plants refer to polysaccharides obtained from plants or algae.
[0181] As examples of (e) polysaccharides of plant origin that can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of: a) algae extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from the company Degussa; an alginate that may be mentioned is sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP; b) gums, such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum or locust bean gum; examples that may be mentioned are the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; mannan and konjac gum® (1% gluconomannan) sold by the company GfN, c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained from cereals, for example wheat, corn or rice, from legumes, for example blonde pea, from tubers, for example potato or cassava, and tapioca starch; dextrins, for example corn dextrin; examples that may be mentioned in particular are rice starch Remy DR I® sold by the company Remy; corn starch B® from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid and neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch, d) dextrins, such as those extracted from corn and sold under the name Index® by National Starch; e) cellulose and its derivatives, in particular alkylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, and alkylhydroxyalkylcelluloses; in particular methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, and carboxymethylcellulose. Examples that may be mentioned include stearyl and cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose. Examples of cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose that may be mentioned include Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon. and mixtures thereof.
[0182] Preferably, the plant-derived polysaccharide (e) can be selected from algae extracts, gums, cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, agar, locust bean gum, mannan konjac gum, cetyl or stearyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and tapioca starch can be used.
[0183] The (e) polysaccharide derived from a plant may be an algae extract selected from alginate, carrageenan and agar, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginate or agar, or mixtures thereof, will be used.
[0184] (e) Polysaccharides derived from plants can also be selected from gums such as guar gum, gum arabic, mannan and konjac gum and locust bean gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0185] The (e) polysaccharide derived from a plant may also be a modified or unmodified starch selected from wheat starch, corn starch, rice starch, potato starch and tapioca starch, and mixtures thereof.
[0186] The (e) polysaccharide derived from a plant may also be a dextrin, such as corn dextrin.
[0187] The plant-derived polysaccharide (e) may also be a cellulose derivative. The cellulose derivative may in particular be a (C1-C3) hydroxyalkyl cellulose modified with a hydrophobic chain, in particular with a hydrophobic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent used is a C8-C 30 , preferably C 10 ~C 22 It may be an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group. Preferably, the hydrophobic substituent according to the present invention is a saturated C 10 ~C 22 , preferably C 16 ~C 20 Alkyl chains, such as cetyl (C 16 ), stearyl (C 18 ) and behenyl (C 20 ) groups. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent according to the invention may be a cetyl group. These cellulose derivatives containing a hydrophobic substituent according to the invention may have a viscosity, measured in a solution containing 1% by weight of polymer in water at 25°C, preferably between 100 and 100,000 mPas, preferably between 200 and 20,000 mPas, as conventionally determined at 6 rpm using a Brookfield LVT viscometer with a No. 3 spindle. Among the cellulose derivatives containing a hydrophobic substituent that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, preferred mention may be made of cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose sold by Aqualon / Hercules under the names Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 CS (INCI name: cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose).
[0188] Preferably, the (e) polysaccharide derived from a plant is selected from non-cellulosic polysaccharides.
[0189] Preferably, (e) the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides derived from plants, polysaccharides derived from microorganisms, and mixtures thereof.
[0190] More preferably, (e) the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of algae extracts, gums and cellulose derivatives, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, fermented polysaccharides such as biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2 and biosaccharide gum-4, and mixtures thereof.
[0191] Even more preferably, (e) the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, fermented polysaccharides such as biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2 and biosaccharide gum-4, and mixtures thereof.
[0192] The amount of (e) polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention can be 0.001% by mass or more, preferably 0.005% by mass or more, and more preferably 0.01% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0193] On the other hand, the amount of (e) polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by mass or less, preferably 2% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0194] The amount of (e) polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 3% by mass, preferably 0.005% by mass to 2% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0195] (water) The composition according to the present invention may comprise water.
[0196] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0197] On the other hand, the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0198] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 50% to 95% by mass, preferably 60% to 90% by mass, more preferably 70% to 85% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0199] (Polyol) The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyols may also be used in combination.
[0200] The term "polyol," as used herein, refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include saccharides or their derivatives. Saccharide derivatives include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, and saccharides or sugar alcohols in which one or more hydrogen atoms in one or more of the hydroxy groups have been replaced with at least one substituent, such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.
[0201] The polyol is a C2-C6 hydroxyl group containing at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups. 12 It may be a polyol, preferably a C2 to C9 polyol.
[0202] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
[0203] The polyol may be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycol and its derivatives, and preferably from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups).
[0204] The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, for example from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0205] (Other optional ingredients) The compositions according to the invention may also contain effective amounts of other optional ingredients previously known elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, such as sequestering or chelating agents; preservatives and co-preservatives; vitamins or provitamins, fragrances; plant extracts, etc.
[0206] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent, which is preferably water-miscible. Examples of the organic solvent include C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; similar products; and mixtures thereof.
[0207] The organic water-soluble solvent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight or more, preferably from 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably from 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0208] The organic water-soluble solvent may be present in an amount ranging up to 15% by weight, preferably up to 10% by weight, more preferably up to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0209] The organic water-soluble solvent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0210] The composition according to the present invention may contain limited amounts of oil.
[0211] The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention may be up to 10% by weight, preferably up to 5% by weight, more preferably up to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be particularly preferred that the composition according to the invention is oil-free.
[0212] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention contain very limited amounts of silicone.
[0213] Preferably, the amount of silicone, such as organopolysiloxane, in the composition according to the invention is 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferred that the composition according to the invention is silicone-free.
[0214] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 0.001% to 3% by weight of polyglutamic acid or sodium polyglutamate as component (a); 0.01% to 5% by weight of a crosslinked neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer as component (b), and It contains 0.01% by mass to 3% by mass of hydrophobic silica as component (c).
[0215] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 0.01% by mass to 0.5% by mass of sodium polyglutamate as component (a); 0.1% to 3% by weight of sodium carbomer as component (b); 0.1% by mass to 0.5% by mass of silica silylate as component (c); Includes.
[0216] (preparation) The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above and the optional components (if necessary) described above.
[0217] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention. Conventional methods and means include a homogenizer, such as a turbine mixer.
[0218] (form) Compositions according to the invention may be in a variety of forms.
[0219] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a fluid, such as a viscous liquid, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0220] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an aqueous gel when the composition contains water, since (b) the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may function as a thickener.
[0221] The compositions according to the invention may be transparent or translucent.
[0222] (pH) The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7.0, preferably less than 6.5, more preferably less than 6.0.
[0223] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 3.0 or higher, preferably 3.5 or higher, more preferably 4.0 or higher.
[0224] For example, the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3.0 to less than 7.0, preferably from 3.5 to less than 6.5, and more preferably from 4.0 to less than 6.0.
[0225] The pH of the composition according to the invention can be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid or its salt. The pH of the composition according to the invention can also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.
[0226] [Method and Use] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0227] The composition according to the present invention is suitable as a skin care cosmetic composition. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used to moisturize the skin.
[0228] The composition according to the present invention is preferably a leave-on type, in other words, it is preferably used on keratinous materials such as the skin without rinsing, and therefore it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is not a cleansing composition.
[0229] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous materials such as the skin, which comprises the step of applying a composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.
[0230] Cosmetic method means herein a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the surfaces of keratinous materials such as the skin, preferably a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for the skin.
[0231] The cosmetic method according to the present invention is preferably not a cleansing method, and therefore preferably does not include a step of rinsing the composition according to the present invention from keratinous materials such as skin.
[0232] The present invention also provides (b) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer, and (c) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler (a) the use of at least one polyglutamic acid or salt thereof in a composition comprising: The present invention may also relate to uses for improving any one of the spreadability, smoothness after application, and moisturizing feel of the composition, and / or reducing noodle formation from the composition.
[0233] The present invention also provides (a) at least one polyglutamic acid or salt thereof, and (c) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler (b) the use of at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer in a composition comprising: To stabilize the composition, or to improve any one of the spreadability of the composition, smoothness after application, and moist feeling, It may also relate to use.
[0234] The present invention also provides (a) at least one polyglutamic acid or salt thereof, and (b) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (c) the use of at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler in a composition comprising It may also relate to uses for improving any one of the spreadability and smoothness after application of the composition and / or reducing noodle formation from the composition.
[0235] The above descriptions regarding (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof, (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer, and (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler for the composition according to the present invention are applicable to the above uses. [Example]
[0236] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.
[0237] (Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4) The following compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. The numerical amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "mass %" of the raw materials. The symbols (a) to (e) in Table 1 correspond to the components (a) to (e) in the claims.
[0238] [Table 1]
[0239] [evaluation] (thermal stability) Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was filled into a glass bottle and kept at a temperature of 55° C. for one week. Each composition was then inspected for changes in the appearance of the composition and evaluated according to the following criteria: Good: A uniform gel was observed. Poor: Silica precipitation was observed.
[0240] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0241] (Spreadability) Six expert judges evaluated the "spreadability" during application of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4. Each judge took each composition in their hand, then applied it to their face to evaluate the ease of spreading without a feeling of friction, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and then classified it into the following two categories based on the average of the grades: Good: 5.0~4.0 Bad: 3.9~0
[0242] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0243] (Moisturizing) Six expert judges evaluated the "moist feeling" after application of the compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4. Each judge took each composition in their hand, then applied it to their face, evaluated the moist feeling as if the inside of the skin was moisturized after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and then classified the compositions into the following three categories based on the average grade. Good: 5.0~3.5 Average: 3.4~2.5 Bad: 2.4~0
[0244] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0245] (Smoothness after application) Six expert judges evaluated the "smoothness after application" of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4. Each judge took each composition in their hand, then applied it to their face, evaluated the smoothness after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and then classified it into the following three categories based on the average grade: Good: 5.0~3.5 Average: 3.4~2.5 Bad: 2.4~0
[0246] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0247] (Noodle formation) Six expert judges evaluated the "noodle formation" after application of the compositions of Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4. Each judge took each composition in their hand, then applied it to their face, and evaluated the noodle formation after application. The evaluation was classified according to the following two categories: Good: 0 or 1 judges reported that noodles were produced or appeared to be produced. Poor: 2-6 judges responded that noodles were formed or appeared to be formed.
[0248] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0249] (summary) The compositions according to Examples 1-2 were stable and showed good spreadability during application and smoothness after application.
[0250] The compositions according to Examples 1-2 were also able to provide a good moist feel and suppress the formation of noodles.
[0251] A comparison between Example 1 and Example 2 demonstrates that the use of a higher amount of component (b) can further improve smoothness after application.
[0252] Comparative Example 1 shows that not using component (a) resulted in poor spreadability during application, poor smoothness after application, poor moist feeling, and noodle formation.
[0253] Comparative Example 2 shows that the absence of component (b) resulted in instability. In fact, the composition according to Comparative Example 2 caused precipitation of component (c), making sensory evaluation impossible.
[0254] Comparative Example 3 shows that not using component (c) resulted in poor spreadability, poor smoothness after application, and the formation of noodles.
[0255] Comparative Example 4 shows that using an unneutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer instead of component (b) resulted in deterioration of spreadability, deterioration of smoothness after application, and deterioration of moisturizing feeling.
Claims
1. (a) at least one polyglutamic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer; (c) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler; A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a dermocosmetic composition, comprising:
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof in the composition is in the range of 0.001% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably 0.005% by weight to 1% by weight, and more preferably 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is fully or partially neutralized, preferably partially neutralized.
4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is in the form of a salt, preferably a metal salt, more preferably an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt, in whole or in part.
5. (b) the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer has the following formula (I): -[CH(R 1 )-C(R 2 )(COO-M + )]- (I) [In the formula, R 1 and R 2 are the same or different and are hydrogen atoms or (C 1 ~C 6 ) represents an alkyl group, such as methyl, preferably R 1 and R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, M + is H + or a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion, more preferably M + represents an alkali metal cation, for example, a sodium cation] 5. The composition of claim 1, having a repeat unit represented by:
6. 6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is a crosslinked homopolymer.
7. 7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of (b) neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 4% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler is selected from hydrophobically modified metal oxides, preferably from hydrophobically modified silica, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.
9. 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (c) hydrophobic inorganic filler is selected from hydrophobic silica, preferably from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, more preferably from hydrophobic silica silylate aerogel particles.
10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of (c) the hydrophobic inorganic filler in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 1% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. 11. The composition of claim 1, further comprising (d) at least one hyaluronic acid component selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid derivatives, hyaluronic acid derivative salts, and mixtures thereof.
12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the amount of the (d) hyaluronic acid component in the composition is in the range of 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably 0.005% to 1% by weight, and more preferably 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. 13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising (e) at least one polysaccharide, preferably selected from the group consisting of algae extracts, gums and cellulose derivatives, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, fermented polysaccharides such as biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2 and biosaccharide gum-4, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, fermented polysaccharides such as biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2 and biosaccharide gum-4, and mixtures thereof.
14. The composition according to claim 13, wherein the amount of (e) polysaccharide in the composition is in the range of 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably 0.005% to 2% by weight, and more preferably 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. A cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratinous materials.
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