Composition containing 4 - (3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl) butan-2-one, a preserving agent and / or an antioxidant, a surfactant and a polymer, and process for treating keratin materials using this composition

Abstract

To provide a new antimicrobial agent.SOLUTION: The invention relates to a composition comprising: I) at least one 4 - (3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl) butan-2-one compound; ii) at least one preservative and / or antioxidant different from I); iii) at least one surfactant selected from surfactants; iv) at least one polymer, preferably organic, which is particularly viscosifying; and v) optionally a fatty substance. The present invention also relates to the use of I) to vi) as an antimicrobial agent, a method for treating a keratin material using a composition comprising I) to vi) and a kit comprising ingredients I) to vi). The combination of I), ii), iii) and iv) and optionally v) makes it possible to produce an antimicrobial mixture having excellent antimicrobial activity, in particular against Aspergillusniger, Escherichiacoli, Staphylococcusaureus and Candidaalbicans. Furthermore, the formulation remains stable over time while maintaining antimicrobial activity at room temperature after 7 days, 15 days or even 1 month.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising i) at least one 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one, ii) at least one preservative and / or at least one antioxidant other than i), iii) at least one surfactant, iv) at least one polymer, particularly preferably an organic thickening polymer, and v) optionally a fatty substance, where it is understood that if the composition comprises a cationic surfactant, the cationic surfactant is present in a concentration of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to the use of i) to vi) as an antimicrobial agent, a method for treating keratinous materials using a composition comprising i) to vi), and a kit comprising components i) to vi). [Background technology]

[0002] Microorganisms can survive and multiply in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food products without preservatives. Preservatives are routinely added to all industrial preparations that are intended to be stored or preserved to prevent microbial growth over time.

[0003] Microbial contamination during the production of industrial products is common, even when the starting ingredients placed into the product are "clean," i.e., free of contaminating microorganisms. For example, water, which is ubiquitous in most cosmetic, pharmaceutical, or food products, should not contain contaminating microorganisms. All other ingredients must also be screened for the presence of contaminating microorganisms. Cleanliness, processing of contents, and filling of containers during the production of these industrial products must be closely monitored. Despite these precautions, the microbial integrity of the product may require the presence of one or more preservatives compatible with the product and the stability of the composition. The product must not allow contaminating microorganisms to grow or survive. Additionally, maintaining cleanliness during use remains problematic because fingers, cosmetic applicators, and ambient air are not sterilized. Therefore, preservatives are needed to reduce microbial contamination introduced by consumers during normal use.

[0004] As a general principle, pathogenic microorganisms must be absent from all products on sale, especially cosmetics (Non-Patent Document 1). Over the years, preservation issues have also led to the introduction of preservatives with a spectrum that covers resistant contaminating microorganisms.

[0005] Furthermore, some commonly used preservatives appear to be inactivated by various surfactants. The more hydrophobic the preservative, the greater the risk that it will be trapped in molecular aggregate systems, such as micelles, and subsequently become less effective or even ineffective against microorganisms, especially pathogenic microorganisms (Non-Patent Document 2).

[0006] Therefore, it is of great importance to propose new antimicrobial associations that meet these challenges.

[0007] 4-(3-Ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one (EZ) is a known ingredient used as a preservative in compositions, particularly cosmetic compositions, to protect the composition against microbial contamination (see, for example, Patent Document 1). The compound has been used alone or in a mixture with other preservative or non-preservative compounds (see, for example, Patent Document 2). It would be of great interest to be able to use this preservative in compositions, particularly cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, especially dermatological compositions, where possible, at reduced concentrations, preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it. This composition not only has the same or even increased antimicrobial effect, but is also stable over time, avoiding odor changes over time and preserving its preservative capacity, i.e., its antimicrobial effectiveness. Patent Documents 3 and 4 also describe cosmetic compositions containing EZ and another preservative of the aromatic alcohol type. These compositions do not always give a satisfactory appearance, in particular with regard to the matt and / or soft focus effect after application to the skin, and in particular with regard to the formulation stability with respect to temperature.

[0008] In addition, there is a high interest in having compositions containing some antimicrobial agents that remain stable to formulation and are not too viscous, i.e., less than 90 poise, preferably less than 45 poise. It is also desired that the composition does not change over time, especially with regard to appearance and / or viscosity, even after storage for several weeks or even months at temperatures above 25° C., especially between 37 and 45° C., and / or at temperatures below 25° C., especially between 1 and 10° C., for example at 4° C.

[0009] Moreover, compositions intended to be applied to keratinous materials, in particular to the skin, should, if possible, have a non-shiny effect or even, if possible, a matte effect after application of the cosmetic composition.

[0010] With regard to the sensation of the composition applied to the keratinous materials, a pleasant effect of a long enough application, coupled with a feeling that may also be accompanied by a fresh sensation, is very often desired. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0011] [Patent Document 1] International Publication No. 2011 / 039445 Brochure [Patent Document 2] International Publication No. 2018 / 115058 Brochure [Patent Document 3] French Patent Application Publication No. 1756156 [Patent Document 4] International Publication No. 2019 / 002400 Brochure [Non-patent literature]

[0012] [Non-Patent Document 1] Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia,Cosmetics,Martin M.Rieger,04 / 12 / 2000;https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471238961.0315191318090507.a01 [Non-patent document 2] Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Skin Cosmetics”, G. Schneider et al., volume 33, p.221, 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH&Co.KGaA, Weinheim DOI:10.1002 / 14356007.a24_219 Summary of the Invention [Means for solving the problem]

[0013] It has been unexpectedly discovered that a mixture of i) at least one 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one or its organic or inorganic base salt and also its solvates, such as hydrates, ii) at least one preservative and / or at least one antioxidant other than i), iii) at least one surfactant, iv) at least one thickening polymer, preferably organic, and v) optionally at least one fatty substance that is liquid, in particular at room temperature and ambient pressure, where the mixture comprises one or more cationic surfactants, the one or more cationic surfactants being understood to be present in a concentration of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of components i) to v), makes it possible to obtain an antimicrobial mixture with improved or even synergistic antimicrobial activity while preserving the physicochemical stability of the formulation over time. Furthermore, it has been found that the compositions defined below, comprising components i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined above, remain stable for several weeks or even months at room temperature or even at temperatures above 25°C (37 and 45°C). Furthermore, none of the combinations or compositions of components i)-iv) and optionally v) have been found to exhibit any change in odor or unpleasant odor over time.

[0014] Furthermore, the viscosity of the composition of the present invention is sufficient for good application to keratinous materials and / or is stable over time.The application to keratinous materials, particularly to the skin, is comfortable, and there is a good feeling, especially when the composition is applied by moving fingers in a circular motion on the skin.A comfortable and fresh feeling can also be felt on the skin during application.

[0015] A subject of the present invention is also a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising components i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined above, understood to comprise cationic surfactants in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] A subject of the present invention is also a method for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application to said keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as the skin, of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising components i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined above. This method may be a cosmetic method for caring for, making up, perfumery or cleansing keratinous materials.

[0017] A subject of the present invention is also a method for preserving a composition, in particular a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, characterized in that it comprises incorporating in said composition an antimicrobial mixture i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined above.

[0018] The results of the examples below show that the antimicrobial activity of combinations of i), ii), iii) and iv) and optionally v) as defined above is improved compared to an equal amount of i) alone or ii) alone, according to minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) measurements carried out on some of the mixtures.

[0019] The combination of i), ii), iii) and iv) and optionally v) makes it possible to obtain an antimicrobial mixture with excellent antimicrobial activity, especially against Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans. Furthermore, the composition remains stable over time at room temperature, retaining its antimicrobial activity after 7 days, 15 days or even 1 month.

[0020] More precisely, a subject of the present invention is an antimicrobial mixture comprising or consisting of (or consisting of) i), ii), iii) and iv) and optionally v) as defined above, in an amount of between 80% and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said combination. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021] For purposes of the present invention, unless otherwise specified: - The term "thickening polymer" refers to a polymer that, when introduced at 1% by weight and pH=7, into an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol or into an oil selected from liquid petroleum jelly, isopropyl myristate or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, has a viscosity of 25°C and 1s -1 "Thickening polymers" refers to polymers that allow a viscosity of 100 cps or more, preferably at least 500 cps, to be achieved at a shear rate of 100 cps. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (such as a Haake R600 rheometer). The thickening polymer can thicken the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase, preferentially the aqueous phase; - the term "organic" thickening polymer means a thickening polymer as defined above, which is formed from carbon and hydrogen and optionally nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur, halogens such as fluorine, chlorine or bromine, and also phosphorus, alkali metals such as sodium or potassium or alkaline earth metals such as magnesium or calcium. The organic polymer according to the invention does not contain silicon; - according to the present invention, the term "non-cellulose-based organic thickening polymer" means an organic thickening polymer that does not contain any cellulose units; - the term "surfactant" means a "surface agent" which is a compound capable of modifying the surface tension between two surfaces; surfactants are amphiphilic molecules, i.e. they contain two parts of different polarity, one lipophilic and apolar, the other hydrophilic and polar; - for the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, more preferentially even less than 0.1%); moreover, fatty substances are soluble under the same temperature and pressure conditions in organic solvents, such as halogenated solvents, for example chloroform or dichloromethane, lower alcohols, for example ethanol, or aromatic solvents, for example benzene or toluene. the term "organic or inorganic acid salts" means in particular salts selected from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH, such as methanesulfonic acid and ethanesulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH, such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid; x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH, such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids, such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; xiii) acetic acid CH3C(O)OH; xiv) triflic acid CF3SO3H; and xv) salts derived from tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4; The term "organic or inorganic base salt" means a salt of an alkaline base or alkalizing agent, such as an alkali metal hydroxide, for example sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, an amine or an alkanolamine, as defined below. - the term "cationic counterion" means a cation or cationic group derived from an organic or inorganic base salt that balances the anionic charge of a component of formula (I') or (II'); more particularly, cationic counterions include i) alkali metals, such as sodium, potassium, preferably Na; ii) alkaline earth metals, such as calcium; iii) ammonium RN + and R, which may be identical or different, is selected from: and represents a hydrogen atom or a group (C1-C6)alkyl optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, preferably R represents a hydrogen atom or a group (C1-C4)alkyl, such as methyl. - a hydrocarbon-based chain is "unsaturated" or a cyclic group is "unsaturated" if it contains one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds that may be conjugated; - "Alkyl group" means a saturated, linear or branched C1-C 20 , preferably C1-C6, more preferentially C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based groups, such as methyl or ethyl; - "Alkylene group" is an unsaturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group as previously described, which may contain one to four conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds -C=C-; alkenylene groups in particular contain one or two unsaturations; - the expression "optionally substituted" assigned to an alkyl group means that said alkyl group can be substituted with one or more groups selected from the following groups: i) hydroxyl, ii) C1-C4 alkoxy, iii) acylamino, iv) amino optionally substituted with one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups; - "Alkoxy group" is an alkyl-oxy group, where the alkyl group is a linear or branched C1-C 16 , preferentially C1-C8 hydrocarbon-based groups; - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more"; - a "heterocyclic" group is a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, monocyclic or polycyclic hydrocarbon-based 5- to 12-membered ring group containing 1 to 5 heteroatoms selected from oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen, which form part of at least one ring member of the ring; in particular heterocyclic groups are selected from morpholinyl, piperazinyl, piperidyl, furyl, pyridyl, indolyl and (benz)imidazolyl; - "cycloalkyl" groups are saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic, monocyclic or polycyclic, 4- to 14-membered hydrocarbon-based groups containing 4 to 14 carbon atoms, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl; - "aryl" group is an unsaturated, aromatic, monocyclic or polycyclic 6- to 14-membered hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 14 carbon atoms, such as phenyl or diphenyl, preferably phenyl; - The term "inclusive" means, in relation to a range of concentrations, that the limits of the range are included in the defined interval.

[0022] i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one is represented by the formula (I): [Chemical formula 1] [ka] is a compound of

[0023] i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one can be found in solvated, especially hydrated, forms.

[0024] i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one is represented by the following formula (I'): [Chemical formula 2] [ka] (In formula '(I'), M + represents a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal, such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal, such as calcium or ammonium It can be found in salified form with organic or inorganic bases.

[0025] ii) preservatives and / or antioxidants According to a particular embodiment of the invention, component ii) represents one or more preservatives.

[0026] "Preservative" ii) is understood to be a preservative other than i) as defined above.

[0027] The term "preservative" or "preserving agent" refers to any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable compound that can prevent microbial growth (or microbial growth) that may occur in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions from the moment of their preparation, during their storage, and until the time of their usual use by the consumer. Preservatives that may be mentioned in particular include those listed in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Martin M. Rieger; 5.2 preservatives&table 3, 04 / 12 / 2000, https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471238961.0315191318090507.a01.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment, the preservative is selected from organic preservatives having an aromatic group.

[0029] Preferably, the preservative other than i) is a) hydroxyl, (C1-C 10 ) alkyl and (C1-C 10 a) benzene-based carboxylic acids optionally substituted on the phenyl group with one or more groups selected from alkylcarbonyl and also their base salts, especially of alkali metals and alkaline earth metals; b) parabens, especially (C1-C6) parabens such as methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben; 10 c) aromatic alcohols, preferably the preservatives other than i) are selected from a) and in particular benzoic acid [65-85-0] and its base salts, in particular of alkali metals and alkaline earth metals; and also salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid, optionally substituted with (C1-C8) alkylcarbonyl groups.

[0030] According to another embodiment, the preservative ii) other than i) is chosen from aromatic alcohols c), such as phenoxyethanol.

[0031] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, component ii) represents one or more antioxidants.

[0032] The term "antioxidant" refers to any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable compound that prevents or slows the oxidation of other ingredients that come into contact with it. Oxidation can occur in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions from the moment of their preparation, during their storage, and until the time of their intended use by the consumer, especially due to the presence of atmospheric oxygen, irradiation, and the in situ formation of free radicals. Antioxidants that may be mentioned in particular include those listed in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Martin M. Rieger; 5.1 antioxidant & Table 2. Free-Radical-Inhibiting Antioxidants or Reductants Useful in Cosmetics, 04 / 12 / 2000 https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471238961.0315191318090507.a01.

[0033] Preferably, the antioxidant is selected from keto and / or carboxylic heterocyclic compounds, such as caffeine, amino acids and hydroxylated benzene compounds, optionally substituted on the phenyl ring with one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups, in particular benzene-based alcohols, preferably hydroxyacetophenone.

[0034] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the antioxidant ii) is 4-hydroxyacetophenone, also known as 4-hydroxyphenylethanone, p-acetophenol, p-hydroxyphenyl methyl ketone or a compound of formula (II): [Chemical formula 3] [ka] The compound is selected from piceol.

[0035] 4-Hydroxyacetophenone may be in solvated form, especially in hydrated form.

[0036] 4-Hydroxyacetophenone has the following formula (II'): [Chemical formula 4] [ka] (In formula '(II'), M + represents a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal, such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal, such as calcium or ammonium It can be found in salified form with organic or inorganic bases.

[0037] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, component ii) represents a mixture of one or more preservatives and one or more antioxidants as defined above, in particular a mixture of a preservative chosen from aromatic alcohols c), such as phenoxyethanol, and an antioxidant chosen from keto and / or carboxylic heterocyclic acid compounds, such as caffeine.

[0038] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, component ii) represents one or more compounds that are preservatives and antioxidants.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and ii) component, in particular 4-hydroxyacetophenone, are present in the mixture or composition in a content such that the weight ratio i) / ii) is in the range of 0.05 to 5, preferably in the range of 0.08 to 5, preferentially in the range of 0.08 to 0.25, in the range of 2 to 4, and more preferentially in the range of 0.15 to 0.25, in the range of 3 to 3.8. Such a mixture has good antimicrobial activity against molds, in particular Aspergillus niger.

[0040] Advantageously, i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and ii) component, in particular 4-hydroxyacetophenone, are present in the mixture or composition in a content such that the weight ratio i) / ii) is in the range of 0.08 to 0.5, preferentially in the range of 0.08 to 0.3, preferentially in the range of 0.08 to 0.25, and more preferentially in the range of 0.15 to 0.25. Such a mixture has good antimicrobial activity against molds, in particular Aspergillus niger.

[0041] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and component ii), in particular 4-hydroxyacetophenone, are present in the mixture or composition in a content such that the mass ratio i) / ii) is in the range of 0.5 to 5, preferentially 1 to 4, more preferentially 3 to 3.8. Such a mixture has good antimicrobial activity against Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans, which is long-lasting even after several weeks (1 week, 2 weeks or even 1 month).

[0042] iii) Surfactants It is understood that the mixture of the invention comprises components i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined above, and that if the mixture comprises one or more cationic surfactants, the one or more cationic surfactants are in an amount of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of i) to v), preferentially not more than 2% by weight of cationic surfactant, more particularly not more than 1% by weight of cationic surfactant, even more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and even better still the mixture does not comprise any cationic surfactants.

[0043] It is understood that the compositions of the invention comprise iii) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic or zwitterionic or amphoteric or cationic surfactants, in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferentially less than or equal to 0.2% by weight, even more particularly less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferentially less than 0.05% by weight, and even better still, the compositions of the invention do not comprise any cationic surfactants. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the surfactant is nonionic or anionic, preferably nonionic.

[0044] Among the nonionic surfactants according to the invention, mention may be made, alone or in mixture, of a) fatty alcohols, b) α-diols and c) alkylphenols, these three types of compounds a) to c) being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated and containing, for example, a fatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups optionally in particular ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups optionally in particular ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100. Ethylene oxide (EO) and propylene oxide (PO) copolymers, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty acid amides, preferably having 2 to 30 moles of EO, polyglycerolated fatty acid amides containing an average of 1 to 5, in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 200 moles of EO, in particular 10 to 100 EO; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides, for example (C 10 ~C 14 ) alkylamine oxide or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxide may be mentioned.

[0045] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are selected from (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; glycerolated fatty alcohols; alkyl polyglycosides, preferably oxyethylenated fatty acid mono- and diesters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 200 moles of EO, in particular from 10 to 100 EO.

[0046] More preferentially, the surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated fatty acid mono- and diesters of sorbitan containing 2 to 200 moles of EO, in particular 10 to 100 EO, such as propylene glycol stearate containing 10 to 30 EO, for example 20 EO; glyceryl monostearate / distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO).

[0047] The term "fatty chain" means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, such as stearyl.

[0048] Regarding alkyl polyglycosides, these compounds are well known and more specifically have the following general formula: R1O-(R2O) t (G) v (III) (In formula (III), R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl group containing from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group having a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene group containing about 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - G represents a sugar unit containing 5-6 carbon atoms, - t is an integer from 0 to 10 (inclusive), preferably from 0 to 4, preferably from 0 to 4; - v is an integer between 1 and 15, inclusive It can be represented by:

[0049] Preferred alkyl polyglycosides according to the invention are compounds of formula (III), in which R1 more particularly represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t represents a value ranging from 0 to 3, more particularly equal to 0, and G may represent glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in formula (III), may range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly from 1 to 2, and even more preferentially from 1.1 to 1.5.

[0050] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

[0051] Representative examples of compounds of formula (III) include, in particular, the products sold by Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix® NS10), the product sold by BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or the product sold by Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.

[0052] For example, the solution sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818UP as a 53% aqueous solution (C8 / C 16 ) It is also possible to use alkyl-1,4-polyglucosides.

[0053] As regards the mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants, these preferably contain on average 1 to 40 glycerol groups, more particularly 10 to 30 glycerol groups, for example 20.

[0054] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactant is monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated and preferably has the following formula: RO[CHCH(CHOH)O] m H, RO[CH2CH(OH)CH2O] m H, or RO[CH(CHOH)CHO] m H (In the formula, R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, m is a number from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1.5 to 6 R may optionally contain heteroatoms, such as oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R may optionally contain one or more hydroxyl, and / or ether, and / or amide groups. R is preferably an optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated C 10 ~C 20 It represents an alkyl and / or alkenyl group.

[0055] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises one or more (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols suitable for carrying out the invention and more particularly chosen from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0056] (Poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly comprise one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally substituted with one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. When unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0057] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol preferably has the following formula: R a -[O-CH2-CH2] n -OH (In the formula, -R a is a linear or branched C1-C 40 Alkyl or linear or branched C2-C 30 Alkenyl (preferentially C8-C 30 alkyl) group, n represents an integer between 1 and 200, inclusive, preferentially between 2 and 100, more particularly between 10 and 50, inclusive, and even more particularly between 15 and 30, inclusive, for example 100 or 20 It has.

[0058] (Poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and which are oxyethylated with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 100 EO). Among these, mention may more particularly be made of lauryl alcohol 20EO, lauryl alcohol 30EO, decyl alcohol 3EO, decyl alcohol 5EO and oleyl alcohol 20EO.

[0059] Mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylenated fatty alcohols may also be used.

[0060] Among nonionic surfactants, C6 to C 24 Alkyl polyglucosides and (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are preferably used, C8-C 16 Alkyl polyglucosides are more particularly used.

[0061] The amount of nonionic surfactant is preferably in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular 1% to 10% by weight, more in particular 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

[0062] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

[0063] The term "anionic surfactant" refers to surfactants that have ionic or ionizable groups and contain only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably the groups -C(O)OH, -C(O)O - , -SO3H, -S(O)2O - , -OS(O)2OH, -OS(O)2O - , -P(O)2OH, -P(O)2O - , -P(O)O2 - , -P(OH)2, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O - , =P(O)O - , =POH and =PO - wherein the anionic portion comprises a cationic counterion, such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium, and more preferentially the group is selected from the group carboxy-C(O)OH or carboxylate-C(O)O - is.

[0064] Examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions according to the invention include alkyl carboxylic acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amido sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amido sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, acyl methyl ... Mention may be made of alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, salts of alkyl diesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, D-galactoside uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylates, alkylaryl ether carboxylates, alkylamido ether carboxylates and the corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds, in which the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group represents a phenyl group.

[0065] These compounds may be oxyethylenated and preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

[0066] Polyglycosides - Polycarboxylic acids C6-C 24 Salts of alkyl monoesters are C6-C 24 Alkyl Polyglycoside Citrate, C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-tartrate and C6-C 24 The alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinate may be selected from alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0067] When the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, these may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, preferably sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, especially amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salts.

[0068] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include the mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, the mono-, di- and triisopropanolamine salts, the 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, the 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and the tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0069] Preferably, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, especially sodium or magnesium salts, are used.

[0070] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, those of natural origin, in particular vegetable origin (C6-C7), which may be in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline earth metal salts or mixtures of these compounds, are preferred. 24 ) alkyl carboxylic acids, especially (C 10 ~C 20 ) It is preferred to use alkyl carboxylic acids, such as stearic acid.

[0071] The amount of anionic surfactant is preferably in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular 1% to 10% by weight, more in particular 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0072] The amount of surfactant is preferably in the range of 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular 1% to 20% by weight, more particularly 2% to 10% by weight, even more particularly 3% to 8% by weight and more preferentially 4% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0073] iv) Organic thickening polymers: According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more thickening organic polymers.

[0074] The term "thickening polymer" refers to a polymer that, when introduced at 1% by weight and pH=7 into an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol or into an oil selected from liquid petroleum jelly, isopropyl myristate, or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, has a viscosity of 25°C and 1s -1 "Thickening polymer" refers to a polymer that allows a viscosity of 100 cps or more, preferably at least 500 cps, to be achieved at a shear rate of 100 cps. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (such as a Haake R600 rheometer). The thickening polymer can be a thickener for thickening the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase, preferentially the aqueous phase.

[0075] The term "organic" thickening polymer means a thickening polymer as defined above, which is formed from carbon and hydrogen and optionally nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur, halogens such as fluorine, chlorine or bromine, and also phosphorus, alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, or alkaline earth metals such as magnesium or calcium. The organic polymer according to the present invention does not contain any silicon.

[0076] The organic thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0077] The thickening polymer may be an associative or non-associative anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic polymer, more particularly an anionic polymer.

[0078] These can be thickeners for the aqueous or oily phase.

[0079] Aqueous phase thickening polymers may include associative or non-associative, preferably non-associative, thickening polymers that include sugar units.

[0080] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar" unit refers to a sugar unit of formula C, which may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or oxidation, and / or dehydration. n (H2O) n-1 or (CHO) n refers to units derived from carbohydrates.

[0081] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the thickening polymer of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0082] Thickening polymers of the invention that may be mentioned in particular are natural gums, such as: a) Tree or shrub exudates, e.g. - Gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Gum ghatti (a polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - Karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) Gums derived from algae, e.g. - agar (a polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginate (polymers of mannuronic and glucuronic acid); - Carrageenan and Furcellan (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) Gums derived from seeds and tubers, e.g. - Guar gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - Fenugreek gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - Konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); d) Gums of microbial origin, e.g. - Xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - Gellan gum (a partially acylated polymer of glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) plant extracts, e.g. - cellulose (glucose polymer); - starch (glucose polymer); - Inulin Includes:

[0083] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. Physical treatments can include temperature in particular.

[0084] Chemical treatments may include esterification, etherification, amidation or oxidation reactions, which may make it possible to produce polymers that may be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric in particular.

[0085] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch and cellulose.

[0086] The non-ionic guar gum that can be used according to the present invention can be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0087] Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of the hydroxymethyl group, the hydroxyethyl group, the hydroxypropyl group and the hydroxybutyl group.

[0088] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting guar gum with the corresponding alkene oxide, for example propylene oxide, to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0089] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2, corresponding to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0090] Such non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120.

[0091] The plant origin of the starch molecules used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers, and thus the starch may be selected, for example, from maize starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch or pea starch.

[0092] The starch may be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, cross-linking, esterification, etherification, amidation or heat treatment.

[0093] Preference is given to using phosphate crosslinked starches or compounds rich in phosphate crosslinked starches, such as the products sold by Avebe under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava phosphate crosslinked starch), or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava phosphate crosslinked starch), or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava phosphate crosslinked starch), or by National Starch under the name Structure Zea (gelatinized corn phosphate crosslinked starch).

[0094] According to the present invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, which contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be attached to the same or different reactive sites on the starch molecule, preferably to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic acid, phosphate, or sulfate type, preferably of the carboxylic acid type. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine type.

[0095] The starch molecules can be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular from corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the above starches. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0096] The non-associative thickening polymers of the present invention have C 10 ~C 30 It may be a cellulose-based polymer that does not contain fatty chains.

[0097] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted cellulose, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

[0098] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers of the present invention may be selected from unsubstituted celluloses and cellulose ethers, including those in microcrystalline form.

[0099] Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters are distinguished.

[0100] Among cellulose esters, inorganic esters of cellulose (such as cellulose nitrate, sulfate, phosphate), organic cellulose esters (such as cellulose monoacetate, triacetate, amidopropionate, acetate butyrate, acetate propionate, or acetate trimellitate), and mixed organic / inorganic esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfate and cellulose acetate propionate sulfate, can be mentioned. Among cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalate and ethylcellulose sulfate can be mentioned.

[0101] C 10 ~C 30Among the nonionic cellulose ethers that do not contain fatty chains, i.e., "non-associative," there may be mentioned (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR from Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkyl-(C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose (e.g., Bermocoll E481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose.

[0102] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without fatty chains, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C1-C4) alkylcelluloses and their salts. Examples that may be mentioned include carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylmethylcellulose (for example Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose and its sodium salt.

[0103] Among the cationic cellulose ethers without fatty chains, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose copolymers or derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and in particular those described in US Patent No. 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted with, in particular, methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidepropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts. More specifically, commercial products that meet this definition are those sold by National Starch under the names Celquat® L200 and Celquat® H100.

[0104] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the thickening polymer of the invention is a copolymer of acrylate monomers CH2=C(R')-COOR''' (VIa) and / or acrylamide monomers CH2=C(R')-CO-N(R'')-LY - M + (VIb), in which R' and R'', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl, preferably hydrogen; R''' represents an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, in particular optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, carboxyl or amino groups; preferably R''' represents a hydrogen atom; L represents a cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, divalent hydrocarbon-based group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as O or N, and containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably L represents a divalent -[C(R')(R'')] p- group, where p is an integer from 1 to 4, preferably from 2 to 3, for example 2, R' and R'' are as defined above, more particularly L represents -C(R')(R'')-CH2- or -CH2-C(R')(R'')-, where R' and R'' are as defined above, preferably R' and R'' represent a (C1-C4) alkyl group, for example methyl, and Y - is an anionic group, such as a carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, sulfonate or sulfate, preferably —S(O)—O - represents M + is a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal, for example sodium, and the copolymer can be in a normal or inverse emulsion, preferably an inverse emulsion. More preferentially, the thickening polymer of the invention is a copolymer of the acrylate monomer CH2=C(R')-COOH (VIa) and the acrylamide monomer CH2=C(R')-CO-N(R'')-LY as defined above. - M + It is derived from the copolymerization of (VIb).

[0105] Among the non-associative thickening polymers not carrying sugar units that may be used, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures, of crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.

[0106] A first family of non-associative thickening polymers suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

[0107] Among homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with allyl alcohol ethers of sugars, such as the products sold by Noveon under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 or the products sold by 3VSA under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K.

[0108] As non-associative thickening polymers, it is also possible to use crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as those sold under the name Aqua SF1 by Noveon.

[0109] The non-associative thickening polymer may be selected from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer and its crosslinked acrylamide copolymer.

[0110] Among the partially or fully neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, particular mention may be made of the products described in Example 1 of EP 503853, to which reference may be made with regard to these polymers.

[0111] The composition may also comprise, as non-associative thickening polymer, an ammonium acrylate homopolymer or a copolymer of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.

[0112] As examples of ammonium acrylate homopolymers, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Simulgel 600 acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 by SEPPIC and Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or product PAS 5193 by Hoechst. In particular, reference may be made to French Patent No. 2,416,723, U.S. Patent No. 2,798,053 and U.S. Patent No. 2,923,692 for the description and preparation of such compounds.

[0113] Among the aqueous phase thickening polymers, mention may be made of non-cellulose-based associative polymers well known to those skilled in the art and of, in particular, nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.

[0114] Recall that "associative polymers" are polymers that are capable of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules in aqueous media.

[0115] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0116] The term "hydrophobic group" means a group or polymer having a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0117] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also be a hydrocarbon-based polymer, such as polybutadiene.

[0118] Among the anionic associative polymers that may be mentioned are the following: (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those in which the hydrophilic unit is formed from an anionic ethylenically unsaturated monomer, more particularly those formed from a vinyl carboxylic acid, most particularly those formed from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or a mixture thereof.

[0119] Among these anionic associative polymers, those particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ethers and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinker (a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylbisacrylamide).

[0120] Among the latter polymers, the most preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth-10), in particular the aqueous 30% emulsion of crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10) sold by Ciba under the names Salcare SC 80® and Salcare SC 90®. - (b) i) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and ii) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C 10 ~C 30 ) alkyl ester hydrophobic units.

[0121] The unsaturated carboxylic acids useful in the present invention (C 10 ~C 30) Alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0122] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, by US Pat. No. 3,915,921 and US Pat. No. 4,509,949.

[0123] Among this type of anionic associative polymer, 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C 10 ~C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by mass of a cross-linkable polymerizable monomer, or the above-mentioned, 98% to 96% by mass of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by mass of C 10 ~C 30 More particularly, one consisting of alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of a cross-linking polymerizable monomer will be used.

[0124] Among the above-mentioned polymers, those most particularly preferred according to the invention are Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially the product sold by Goodrich under the trade name Pemulen TR1® and the product sold by SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®.

[0125] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP. - (c) Maleic anhydride / C 30 ~C 38α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as those sold by Newphase Technologies under the trade name Performa V1608® (maleic anhydride / C 30 ~C 38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer); (d) Acrylic terpolymers, including: i) approximately 20% by mass to 70% by mass of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A]; ii) about 20% to 80% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated non-surfactant monomer other than [A]; iii) A nonionic monourethane that is the reaction product of about 0.5% to 60% by weight of a surfactant having one hydroxyl group with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.

[0126] For example, the terpolymer described in EP-A-0173109, more particularly in Example 3, namely an aqueous 25% dispersion of terpolymer of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate ethoxylate (40EO). (e) Copolymers comprising as monomers an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0127] Preferentially, these compounds also contain, as monomers, esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and C1-C4 alcohols.

[0128] An example of this type of compound is Aculyn 22, sold by Roehm & Haas, which is a terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate. (f) amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer having a sulfonic acid in free form or in partially or fully neutralized form, and comprising at least one hydrophobic moiety. These polymers may be crosslinked or not. They are preferably crosslinked.

[0129] The ethylenically unsaturated monomer having a sulfonic acid group is, in particular, vinyl sulfonic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamide (C1-C 22 ) Alkyl sulfonic acid, N-(C1-C 22 ) Alkyl (meth)acrylamide (C1-C 22 ) alkyl sulfonic acids (such as undecylacrylamido methane sulfonic acid) and also partially or fully neutralized forms thereof.

[0130] (Meth)acrylamide (C1-C 22 ) Alkyl sulfonic acids, such as acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or completely neutralized forms, are more preferentially used.

[0131] More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and also its partially or fully neutralized forms are used.

[0132] This type of polymer is particularly 22Random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with n-mono- or di-n-alkylamines may be selected from those described, for example, in WO 00 / 31154, which forms an integral part of the present disclosure. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, for example, selected from (meth)acrylic acid, its β-substituted alkyl derivatives or its esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0133] Preferred polymers of this family are selected from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.

[0134] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not containing a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acid, its β-substituted alkyl derivatives or its esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0135] These copolymers are described in particular in EP-A-750899, U.S. Pat. No. 5,089,578 and the following publications from Yotaro Morishima: - Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures,Chinese Journal of Polymer Science,Vol.18,No.40,(2000),323-336; - Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering-Macromolecules,Vol.33,No.10(2000),3694-3704; - “Solution properties of micelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to an polyelectrolyte:salt effects on rheological behavior-Langmuir,Vol.16,No.12,(2000)5324-5332”; - Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers-Polym.Preprint, Div.Polym.Chem.40(2), (1999), 220-221.

[0136] Among these polymers, mention may be made of: - 15% to 60% by mass of AMPS units and 40% to 85% by mass of (C8 to C9 16 ) alkyl (meth) acrylamide or (C8-C 16 ) alkyl (meth)acrylate units, such as those described in EP-A-750899. - 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units, and 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6 to C 18) terpolymers containing alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,089,578.

[0137] Mention may also be made of fully neutralized copolymers of AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate and also crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecyl methacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima paper mentioned above.

[0138] Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of: (I) cationic associative polyurethanes; (II) A compound sold under the name Aqua CC by Noveon, which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-1.

[0139] Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer is the product of polymerization of a monomer mixture including: *Di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl)methacrylate, *One or more C1-C of (meth)acrylic acid 30 Alkyl esters, *Polyethoxylated C 10 ~C 30 alkyl methacrylate (20 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide units); *30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether *Hydroxy (C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and *Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. - (III) Quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcellulose modified with at least one fatty chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, such as an alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl group, or a mixture thereof. The alkyl group carried by the quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose preferably contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a naphthyl group, or an anthryl group. C8 to C may be represented. 30 Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing fatty chains include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B® (C 12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C 18 alkyl) and Crodacel QM® and Crodacel QL® (C 12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C 18 alkyl) as well as the product Softcat SL 100® sold by Aqualon. - (IV) Cationic polyvinyl lactam polymers.

[0140] Such polymers are described, for example, in WO 00 / 68282.

[0141] As cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the invention, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers are particularly used.

[0142] The amphoteric associative polymer is preferably selected from those containing at least one acyclic cationic unit, more particularly those prepared from or containing 1 to 20 mol %, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol %, and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol % of fatty chain monomers relative to the total number of moles of monomers.

[0143] The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in WO 98 / 44012.

[0144] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the present invention, the preferred one is an acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymer.

[0145] The associative polymers of non-ionic type that can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from: (a) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers, examples of which may include: the products Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company ISP, - the products Antaron V220® or Ganex V220® (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company ISP; (b) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates with amphiphilic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, such as the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold under the name Antil 208® by Goldschmidt; (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates with hydrophobic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, such as polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; (d) polyurethane polyethers containing in the chain both hydrophilic blocks, usually of polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic blocks which may be solely aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences; (e) aminoplast polymers having an ether skeleton and containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by Sud-Chemie; (f) Cellulose or derivatives thereof modified with at least one fatty chain, such as a group containing an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group or a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyl group is C8, in particular: *Nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcellulose, such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67(C) sold by Aqualon 16 alkyl); *Nonionic nonoxynyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, for example, the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by the company Amerchol; *Nonionic alkylcelluloses, for example, the product Bermocoll EHM100 sold by Berol Nobel; (g) associative guar derivatives, such as hydroxypropyl guar modified with fatty chains, for example the product Esaflor HM 22 (C) sold by Lamberti; 22modified with alkyl chains); Miracare XC 95-3 (C) is a product sold by Rhodia Chimie 14 Modified with alkyl chains) and product RE 205-146(C 20 modified with alkyl chains).

[0146] Preferably, the polyurethane polyether comprises at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains being optionally side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic block. In particular, one or more side chains can be envisaged. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one or both ends of the hydrophilic block.

[0147] Polyurethane polyethers can be in multiblock, especially triblock, form. The hydrophobic blocks can be present at each end of the chain (e.g., triblock copolymers carrying a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and along the chain (e.g., multiblock copolymers). These same polymers can also be graft or star polymers.

[0148] The nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, in which the hydrophilic blocks are polyoxyethylene chains containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers contain urethane bonds between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the name.

[0149] By extension, nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those in which the hydrophilic block is bonded to the lipophilic block via other chemical bonds.

[0150] As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the present invention, Rheolate 205® or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212 bearing urea groups and also Acrysol RM 184®, sold by the company Rheox, can be used.

[0151] From Akzo, C 12 ~C 14 Products that retain alkyl chains: Elfacos T210® and C 18 The product Elfacos T212®, which retains the alkyl chain, may also be mentioned.

[0152] C from Roehm & Haas, sold at 20% solids in water 20 The product DW 1206B®, which retains alkyl chains and urethane bonds, may also be used.

[0153] In particular, solutions or dispersions of these polymers in water or in aqueous / alcoholic media may also be used. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Roehm & Haas may also be used.

[0154] Polyurethane polyethers which may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380389 (1993).

[0155] It is even more particularly preferable to use polyurethane polyethers obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0156] Polyurethane polyethers of this type are sold, in particular, by Röhm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® (Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)).

[0157] Fatty phase thickening polymers may also be used.

[0158] Preferably, the polymers for structuring the oily phase through physical interactions are selected from polyamides, silicone polyamides, saccharide or polysaccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters, N-acyl amino acid amide derivatives and copolymers comprising alkylene or styrene blocks, these copolymers being optionally diblock, triblock, multiblock or radial-block polymers, also known as star copolymers or alternatively comb polymers.

[0159] 1) A polymer carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone. These are also polymers that are soluble or dispersible in oil or fatty phases by heating above their melting point m. These polymers are in particular block copolymers consisting of at least two blocks of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable.

[0160] Polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone suitable for use in the present invention may include: i) polymers as defined in US Pat. No. 5,156,911; ii) Block copolymers of olefins or cycloolefins containing crystallizable chains, such as those derived from the block polymerization of: - cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (i.e. bicyclo(2.2.1)hept-2-ene), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene, 5,5,6-trimethylnorbornene, 5-ethylidenenorbornene, 5-phenylnorbornene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinylnorbornene, 1,4,5,8-dimethano-1,2,3,4,4a,5,8a-octahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene and mixtures thereof; ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene or 1-eicosene or mixtures thereof. These block copolymers may in particular be (ethylene / norbornene) block copolymers and (ethylene / propylene / ethylidenenorbornene) block terpolymers.

[0161] At least two C2-C, such as those mentioned above 16 , and even better C2 to C 12 Those derived from the block copolymerization of α-olefins, in particular block bipolymers of ethylene and 1-octene, may also be used.

[0162] The copolymers contain at least one crystallizable block, the remainder of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may also contain two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. Preferred copolymers are those which are both hydrophobic and lipophilic at room temperature and simultaneously contain a crystallizable block and an amorphous block distributed sequentially, for example, polymers containing one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the following amorphous blocks may be mentioned: - intrinsically crystallizable blocks of a) polyester type, for example poly(alkylene terephthalate), b) polyolefin type, for example polyethylene or polypropylene; Amorphous and lipophilic blocks, such as amorphous polyolefins or copoly(olefins), for example poly(isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene or hydrogenated poly(isoprene).

[0163] As examples of such copolymers containing a crystallizable block and an amorphous block, mention may be made of: a) poly(δ-caprolactone)-b-poly(butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used hydrogenated, such as those described in the article "Melting behavior of poly(δ-caprolactone)-block-polybutadiene copolymers" by S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999); b) hydrogenated block or multiblock poly(butylene terephthalate)-b-poly(isoprene) block copolymers, as cited in the paper "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP / PBT" by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123 (1995); c) Poly(ethylene)-b-copoly(ethylene / propylene) block copolymers, as cited in the articles "Morphology of semicrystalline block copolymers of ethylene-(ethylene-alt-propylene)" by P. Rangarajan et al., Macromolecules, 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and "Polymer aggregates with crystalline cores: the system poly(ethylene)poly(ethylene-propylene)" by P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 25 (1997), d) Poly(ethylene)-b-poly(ethylethylene) block copolymers, as described in the general article "Crystallization in block copolymers" by I. W Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, volume 148, 113-137 (1999).

[0164] The semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in connection with the present invention can be non-crosslinked or partially crosslinked, provided that the degree of crosslinking does not prevent their dissolution or dispersion in liquid oily phase by heating above their melting point.Therefore, this can be the case of chemical crosslinking by reaction with multifunctional monomers during polymerization.This can also be the case of physical crosslinking, which can be due to the establishment of hydrogen or dipolar type bonds between groups carried by the polymer, such as the dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers (these interactions are small and carried by the polymer backbone), or due to the phase separation between the crystallizable block and amorphous block carried by the polymer.

[0165] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers suitable for use in the present invention are non-crosslinked.

[0166] As specific examples of semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer® products from Landec, which are described in the pamphlet "Intelimer® Polymers." These polymers are in solid form at room temperature (25°C). They contain monomers carrying crystallizable side chains. Mention may in particular be made of Landec IP22®, which has a melting point mp of 56°C, which is a viscous, impermeable, and non-sticky product at room temperature.

[0167] Acrylic acid and C5-C 16 It is also possible to use the semicrystalline polymers described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7 and 9 of US Pat. No. 5,156,911 resulting from the copolymerization of alkyl (meth)acrylates, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of: acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and isodecyl acrylate in a ratio of 1 / 16 / 3, acrylic acid and pentadecyl acrylate in a ratio of 1 / 19, - acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate in a ratio of 2.5 / 76.5 / 20, - acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and methyl acrylate in a ratio of 5 / 85 / 10, - acrylic acid and octadecyl (meth)acrylate in a 2.5 / 97.5 ratio.

[0168] It is also possible to use the polymer "Structure O" sold by National Starch, such as the product described in US Pat. No. 5,736,125, which has a melting point of 44° C., and also to use semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains containing fluoro groups, as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of WO-A-01 / 19333.

[0169] It is also possible to use semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP, as described in US Pat. No. 5,519,063 or EP-A-0,550,745, or by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP.

[0170] According to a variant of a particular embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymers suitable for use in the present invention are in particular alkyl acrylates, among which mention may be made of the Landec copolymers: Doresco IPA 13-1®: Polystearyl acrylate, mp at 49°C and MW of 145,000; - Doresco IPA 13-3®: Polyacrylate / methacrylic acid, mp at 65°C and MW of 114,000; - Doresco IPA 13-4®: Polyacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone, mp at 44°C and MW of 387000; - Doresco IPA13-5®: Polyacrylate / hydroxyethyl methacrylate, mp at 47°C and MW of 397600; - Doresco IPA 13-6®: Polybehenyl acrylate, mp 66°C.

[0171] 2) Non-silicone polyamide The particular polyamides used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably those described in US Pat. No. 5,783,657 to Union Camp.

[0172] The section of US Pat. No. 5,783,657 devoted to these polymers is incorporated by reference.

[0173] Each of these polyamides has in particular the following formula (V): [ka] (In formula (V): n represents an integer number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups, -R 1 are independently in each case an alkyl or alkenyl group containing at least 4 carbon atoms, in particular 4 to 24 carbon atoms, -R 2 At least 50% of the groups are C 30 ~C 55 R is assumed to represent a hydrocarbon-based group. 2 are independently, in each case, C4 to C 55 represents a hydrocarbon-based group, -R 3 represents independently in each case an organic group carrying at least two carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms, -R 4 are independently in each case a hydrogen atom, C1 to C 10 Alkyl group or R 3 and R 4 The nitrogen atom to which both are attached is R 4 -NR 3 R is a part of a heterocyclic structure defined by 3 Or another R 4 represents a direct bond to 4 At least 50% of the groups represent hydrogen atoms. Meet the following.

[0174] In particular, the ester groups of this polyamide represent 15% to 40%, and at most 20% to 35%, of the total number of ester and amide groups, and n advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 10 and even better from 1 to 5, limits included.

[0175] Preferably, R 1 is C 12 ~C 22 , preferably C 16 ~C 22 Advantageously, R 2 is C 10 ~C 42R may be a hydrocarbon (alkylene) group. 2 Preferably at least 50%, and even better at least 75%, of the radicals are radicals containing 30 to 42 carbon atoms. 2 is hydrogenated C4 to C 19 , preferably C4 to C 12 Preferably, R 3 is C2~C 36 represents a hydrocarbon-based group or a polyoxyalkylene group, and R 4 represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R 3 is C2~C 12 represents a hydrocarbon-based group. The hydrocarbon-based group may be linear, cyclic, or branched, saturated, or unsaturated. Furthermore, the alkyl and alkylene groups may be linear or branched, saturated, or unsaturated.

[0176] The thickening of the oily phase can be obtained using one or more polyamides as defined above, generally in the form of mixtures, which may also contain the synthesis products (n is 0) corresponding to the polyamides as defined above, i.e. diesters.

[0177] The structured polyamides that can be used in the present invention may also include polyamide resins (including compounds containing more than two carboxyl groups and more than two amine groups, respectively) resulting from the condensation of aliphatic dicarboxylic acids and diamines, where the carboxyl and amine groups of adjacent units are condensed in the form of an amide bond. These polyamide resins are, in particular, products sold by General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp. under the brand name Versamid, and products sold under the brand name Onamid®, especially Onamid® S or C. These resins have a weight-average molecular mass in the range of 6,000 to 9,000. For further information on these polyamides, reference may be made to US Pat. No. 3,645,705 and US Pat. No. 3,148,125. More particularly, Versamid® 30 or 744 is used.

[0178] It is also possible to use the polyamides sold or manufactured by the company Arizona under the reference Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and the products sold by the company Henkel under the reference Macromelt 6212. For further information on these polyamides, reference may be made to US Pat. No. 5,500,209.

[0179] Examples of structured polyamides that can be used in the compositions according to the invention include the commercially available products sold or manufactured by Arizona Chemical Company under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. These are sold in the form of 80% (active material) gel and 100% (active material) gel in mineral oil, respectively. They have softening points of 88-105°C. These commercially available products are mixtures of copolymers of C36 diacids combined with ethylenediamine, with an average molecular mass of about 6000. The ester end groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid end groups with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof (also known as cetylstearyl alcohol).

[0180] 2) Sugar or polysaccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters Among the saccharide or polysaccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of dextrin or inulin alkyl or polyalkyl esters.

[0181] It is in particular a compound of the following formula (VI): [ka] (In formula (VI), n is an integer in the range from 3 to 200, in particular in the range from 20 to 150, in particular in the range from 25 to 50, R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and acyl groups (RC(O)-), in which the R groups are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups containing from 7 to 29, in particular from 7 to 21, in particular from 11 to 19, more in particular from 13 to 17 or even 15 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of said R1, R2 or R3 groups is other than hydrogen. In particular, it may be a dextrin monoester or polyester of at least one fatty acid corresponding to

[0182] In particular, R1, R2 and R3 may represent hydrogen or an acyl group (RC(O)-), where R is a hydrocarbon group as previously described, provided that at least two of said groups R1, R2 or R3 are identical and other than hydrogen.

[0183] All of the R1, R2 and R3 groups may be the same or different and may in particular contain an acyl group (RC(O)), which may be the same.

[0184] In particular, n above is advantageously in the range of 25 to 50, and in particular equal to 38, in the general formula of the saccharide esters that can be used in the present invention.

[0185] In particular, when the R1, R2 and / or R3 groups, which may be identical or different, contain acyl groups (RC(O)), these groups may be selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2-ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isomyristic acid, isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, isoarachidic acid, isohexanoic acid, decenoic acid, dodecenoic acid, tetradecenoic acid, myristoleic acid, hexadecenoic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, asclepic acid, gondoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, sorbic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, punicic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid and stearic acid groups, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] Preferably, at least one dextrin palmitate is used as the fatty acid ester of dextrin, which ester can be used alone or in a mixture with other esters.

[0187] Advantageously, the fatty acid ester of dextrin has a degree of substitution based on one glucose unit of not more than 2.5, in particular in the range of 1.5 to 2.5, preferably 2 to 2.5. The weight average molecular weight of the dextrin ester may in particular be 10,000 to 150,000, in particular 12,000 to 100,000, or even 15,000 to 80,000.

[0188] Dextrin esters, in particular dextrin palmitate, are commercially available from Chiba Flour under the name Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL.

[0189] 3) N-acyl amino acid amide derivatives N-acylamino acid amides that can be used are, for example, diamides from a combination of an N-acylamino acid with an amine containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in French Patent No. 2281162. These are, for example, alkylglutamic acid amide derivatives, such as laurylglutamic acid dibutylamide sold under the name Gelling Agent GP-1 by Ajinomoto, or alternatively 2-ethylhexylglutamic acid dibutylamide sold under the name Gelling Agent GA-01 by Ajinomoto.

[0190] 4) Copolymers containing alkylene or styrene blocks The copolymers may have a block structure of comb or diblock, triblock, multiblock and / or radial or star type and may contain at least two thermodynamically incompatible segments.

[0191] The structuring agent may comprise, for example, styrene segment blocks as described in EP 0 497 144, WO 98 / 42298, U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,225,690, 6,174,968 and 6,225,390, ethylene / butylene or ethylene / propylene segments as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,225,690, 6,174,968 and 6,225,390; butadiene segments, isoprene segments, polyvinyl segments such as poly(alkyl(meth)acrylates) or polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl acetate, silicone segments as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,468,477 and 5,725,882, or combinations of these segments.

[0192] Diblock copolymers are usually defined as being of the AB type, with a hard segment (A) followed by a soft segment (B).

[0193] Triblock copolymers are usually defined as being of the ABA type or as a ratio of hard segment, soft segment and hard segment.

[0194] Multiblock, radial or star copolymers may contain any type of combination of hard and soft segments, provided that the characteristics of the hard and soft segments are preserved.

[0195] An example of a hard segment of a block copolymer that may be mentioned is styrene, and examples of soft segments of a block copolymer that may be mentioned include ethylene, propylene and butylene, and combinations thereof.

[0196] Triblock copolymers suitable for use in the present invention, in particular those of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type, may be those sold by BASF under the reference Luvitol HSB. Mention may also be made of triblock copolymers of the polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-propylene) or polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, such as those sold by Shell Chemical Co. under the reference Kraton or by Penreco under the reference Gelled Permethyl 99A. Such triblock copolymers are particularly preferred according to the present invention.

[0197] Further examples of block copolymers that may be suitable for use in the present invention include those sold by Penreco under the reference Versagel, those sold by Shell under the reference Kraton and those sold by Brooks Industries under the reference Gel Base.

[0198] Among the fatty phase thickening polymers, preference is given to polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone.

[0199] The aqueous phase or fatty phase thickening polymers may be used alone or as mixtures in all proportions.

[0200] Preferably, the thickener is an aqueous phase thickener.

[0201] Preferably, the polymer in the cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously has a viscosity of 200 s, measured at 1% active material in water at 25° C. using a Rheomat RM180 rheometer, in solution or dispersion. -1 and even more advantageously, have a viscosity of greater than 0.1 ps and even more advantageously greater than 0.2 cp at a shear rate of 100 rpm.

[0202] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the thickening polymers of the invention are non-associative and preferentially comprise acrylate monomers CH2=C(R')-COOR''' (VIa) and / or acrylamide monomers CH2=C(R')-CO-N(R'')-LY - M + (VIb), in which R' and R'', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl, preferably hydrogen; R''' represents an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, in particular optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, carboxy or amino groups; L represents a cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, divalent hydrocarbon-based group, optionally interrupted and / or substituted with one or more heteroatoms, such as O or N, and containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably L represents a divalent -[C(R')(R'')] p - group, where p represents an integer from 1 to 4, preferably 2 to 3, for example 2, R' and R'' are as defined above, more particularly L represents -C(R')(R'')-CH2- or -CH2-C(R')(R'')-, where R' and R'' are as defined above, preferably R' and R'' represent a (C1-C4) alkyl group, for example methyl, Y- is an anionic group, for example carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, sulfonate or sulfate, preferably -S(O)2-O - represents M + is a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal, for example sodium, and the copolymer can be in a normal or inverse emulsion, preferably an inverse emulsion. More preferentially, the thickening polymer of the invention is a copolymer of the acrylate monomer CH2=C(R')-COOH (VIa) and the acrylamide monomer CH2=C(R')-CO-N(R'')-LY as defined above. - M +Among the thickening polymers, mention may be made of, preferably organic thickening polymers, chosen alone or in mixtures from, crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.

[0203] According to an advantageous variant, the composition of the invention comprises one or more associative or non-associative thickening polymers, preferably non-associative, comprising sugar units derived in particular from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose, preferably anhydrogalactose galactose, preferably agar.

[0204] Preferably, the organic thickening polymer is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty substance / surfactant weight ratio is between 5 and 20, inclusive, preferably between 8 and 15, and even more preferentially between 10 and 13, for example 11.8.

[0206] According to one embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of fatty substance / surfactant and polymer sum [surfactant+polymer] is between 0.8 and 10, inclusive, in particular between 1 and 5, more in particular between 1.5 and 2.5, for example 1.8 or 1.9, preferentially 1.9.

[0207] fatty substances According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention also comprises v) one or more fatty substances. In particular, the fatty substances of the invention are not oxyalkylenated.

[0208] Preferably, the fatty materials of the present invention are selected from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones and fatty ethers or mixtures thereof.

[0209] The lipid materials of the present invention can be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie, 1.013×10 5 Pa).

[0210] The liquid fatty substance of the present invention is preferably heated at a temperature of 25° C. and 1 s -1 at a shear rate of 2 Pa.s or less, even better 1 Pa.s or less, and even better 0.1 Pa.s or less.

[0211] The term "liquid hydrocarbon" refers to a liquid hydrocarbon that is composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 1.013 x 10 5 It refers to hydrocarbons that are liquid at temperatures below 1000 K (Pa).

[0212] More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbon is selected from: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16 Alkanes, examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0213] In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon is chosen from liquid paraffin and liquid petrolatum.

[0214] The term "liquid fatty alcohol" refers to the liquid fatty alcohol at standard temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 1.013 x 10 5means non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature (Pa).

[0215] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol of the present invention contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially C 10 ~C 22 , and more preferentially C 14 ~C 20 , and even better C 16 ~C 18 is.

[0216] The liquid fatty alcohols of the present invention can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0217] The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally contain at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring in their structure. Preferably, they are acyclic.

[0218] More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohol of the present invention is selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol or 2-hexyldecanol.

[0219] According to another variant of the present invention, fatty substance is selected from liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols.These unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain at least one double bond or triple bond in their structure.Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the present invention have one or more double bonds in their structure.If there are several double bonds, preferably there are two or three double bonds, and these can be conjugated or not.

[0220] These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain.

[0221] They may optionally contain at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring within their structure. Preferably, they are acyclic.

[0222] More particularly, the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohol of the present invention is selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, or undecylenyl alcohol.

[0223] Oleyl alcohol is the most preferred of these.

[0224] The term "liquid fatty ester" refers to a liquid fatty ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol and capable of withstanding temperatures of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e., 1.013 x 10 5 It means an ester that is liquid at room temperature (Pa).

[0225] The ester is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 It is a liquid ester of an aliphatic mono- or polyalcohol, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.

[0226] Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0227] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and C 10 ~C 22 , preferably C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl (iso)stearates, such as isopropyl isostearate, may be mentioned.

[0228] C4~C 22 Di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy C4-C 26Esters of alcohols may also be used.

[0229] Mention may in particular be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0230] The composition comprises a C6-C ester as a liquid fatty ester. 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids may also be included. It should be remembered that the term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound that contains some alcohol functionality, with or without aldehyde or ketone functionality, and contains at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0231] Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0232] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those of the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They may be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids, and when they are unsaturated, they may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0233] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0234] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonate or mixtures thereof, such as specifically mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate.

[0235] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, in particular the mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0236] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold by the company Amerchol under the name Glucate® DO, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0237] Finally, natural or synthetic glycerol esters of mono-, di-, or tri-acids may also be utilized.

[0238] Among these, mention may be made of vegetable oils.

[0239] Examples that may be mentioned of triglyceride oils of vegetable origin or synthetic that may be used in the compositions of the invention include: triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, for example liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic triglyceride or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea oil.

[0240] Preferably, liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols are used as esters according to the invention.

[0241] Isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate is preferred.

[0242] The term "liquid silicone" refers to a liquid silicone that is soluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e., 1.013 x 10 5 This refers to an organopolysiloxane that is liquid at a temperature of 1000 Pa.

[0243] Preferably, the silicone is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes containing at least one aryl group, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes.

[0244] These silicones may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used according to the invention are liquid silicones as defined above, which contain in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via hydrocarbon-based groups.

[0245] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0246] When the organopolysiloxane is volatile, the silicone is more particularly selected from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly from the following:

[0247] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or under Silbione® 70045V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Silicone Volatile® 7158 by Union Carbide or under Silbione® 70045V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and also mixtures thereof.

[0248] Cyclic copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as those sold by Union Carbide, of the formula: [ka] Mention may also be made of Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 from the company.

[0249] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as a mixture (50 / 50) of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane.

[0250] (ii) containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and 5 × 10 at 25 °C-6 m 2 Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than 1 / s. One example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200. Silicones within this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pages 27-32 - Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to the standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0251] Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used.

[0252] These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0253] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, but is not limited to, the following commercially available products: - Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, such as oil 70047V500000; - Mirasil® series oils sold by Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g., with a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 DC200, viscosity in / s; - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0254] Mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes carrying dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0255] Among the silicones containing aryl groups there are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: - Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; - Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia; - Dow Corning Oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid; - Bayer's PK series silicones, for example product PK20; - Some oils from the General Electric SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0256] The organically modified silicone fluids may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 sold by Shin-Etsu and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from Union Carbide.

[0257] The liquid fatty ether is selected from liquid dialkyl ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0258] The fatty material may be non-liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0259] The term "non-liquid" preferably refers to a solid compound or a liquid at a temperature of 25°C and a shear rate of 1 s -1 This refers to a compound with a viscosity of more than 2 Pa.s.

[0260] More particularly, the non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, non-liquid, preferably solid, silicones or fatty ethers.

[0261] Non-liquid fatty alcohols suitable for use in the present invention are more particularly and more preferentially C 10 ~C 22 , and more preferentially C 14 ~C 20 , and even better C 16 ~C 18 The alcohol is selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0262] Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol) are most particularly preferred.

[0263] For non-liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, C9-C 26 Fatty acids and C9-C 26 Mention may in particular be made of solid esters derived from fatty alcohols.

[0264] Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyl stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, and more particularly myristyl myristate.

[0265] In addition, in relation to this modified form, C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C 26 Esters of di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0266] Mention may in particular be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, and dioctyl maleate.

[0267] Of all the abovementioned further esters, preference is given to using myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate and stearyl myristate, myristyl myristate.

[0268] Non-silicone waxes are selected in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or anhydrous flower waxes, such as the essential wax of black currant flowers sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina); white beeswax, such as that sold by Koster Keunen. Other waxes or waxy materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as the products sold by Sophim under reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

[0269] The non-liquid silicone according to the present invention may be in the form of a wax, resin or gum.

[0270] Preferably, the non-liquid silicone is selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and organically modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

[0271] Silicone rubbers that can be used according to the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with a high number-average molecular mass of 200,000 to 1,000,000, which can be used alone or as a mixture in a solvent, which can be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylene, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

[0272] More particularly, the products that can be used according to the invention are mixtures, for example: mixtures made from polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethiconol (CTFA) with hydroxyl-terminated chains and from cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA)), such as the product Q21401 sold by Dow Corning; - mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane gum and cyclic silicones, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from General Electric, which is made by dissolving SF 30 gum, which corresponds to dimethicone with a number average molecular weight of 500,000, in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, which corresponds to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; - a mixture of two PDMS with different viscosities, more particularly a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, for example the product SF 1236 from General Electric. 2 Gum SE30 as defined above with a viscosity of 5 x 10 / s 6 m 2 / s. This product preferably contains 15% gum SE30 and 85% oil SF96.

[0273] The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the present invention contain the following units: R2SiO2 / 2 , R3SiO 1 / 2 , RSiO 3 / 2 and SiO 4 / 2 , wherein R, which may be the same or different, preferably the same, represents alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those in which R represents a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl, are particularly preferred.

[0274] Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or the products sold under the name Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by General Electric, which are siloxanes with a dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structure.

[0275] Mention may also be made of resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type sold by the company Shin-Etsu, especially under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037.

[0276] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes, including: - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold by Dow Corning under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939. Substituted amino groups are in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; Alkoxylated groups, for example the products sold by Goldschmidt under the names Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440.

[0277] The non-liquid aliphatic ethers are selected from dialkyl ethers, especially dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, either alone or in mixtures.

[0278] The composition according to the invention may preferably comprise one or more butters which may be the same or different, of vegetable origin.

[0279] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the C expressed relative to the total amount of fatty acid triglycerides in the butter according to the present invention 16 The mass content of fatty acid triglycerides is less than 23%.

[0280] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also known as "pasty fatty substance") means a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change and that comprises a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound may be below 25°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 25°C, may represent between 9% and 97% by weight of the compound. This fraction, which is liquid at 25°C, preferably represents between 15% and 85% by weight, more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

[0281] Preferably the butter has a final melting point of less than 60°C.

[0282] Preferably, the butter has a hardness of 6 MPa or less.

[0283] Preferably, the pasty fatty substance has an anisotropic crystalline texture in the solid state, which is visible by X-ray observation.

[0284] The melting point for the purposes of the present invention corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO standard 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty substance or wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name DSC Q2000.

[0285] For melting point measurements and final melting point determinations, the sample preparation and measurement protocol is as follows.

[0286] A 5 mg sample of the pasty fatty substance, preheated to 80°C and also removed by magnetic stirring using a heated spatula, is placed in an airtight aluminium capsule or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.

[0287] The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter described above. The oven is flushed with nitrogen. Cooling is carried out by means of an RCS90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol: it is initially placed at a temperature of 20°C, then subjected to a first temperature increase from 20°C to 80°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min, then cooled from 80°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 5°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -80°C to 80°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min. During the second temperature increase, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the butter sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0288] The final melting point corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample is melted.

[0289] The liquid fraction by mass of butter at 25°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 25°C to the enthalpy of melting of the butter.

[0290] The heat of fusion of a pasty compound is the heat consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. Butter is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. Butter is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0291] The heat of fusion of butter is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the calorimeter described above with a temperature increase of 5°C / min or 10°C / min, according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion of butter is the amount of energy required to cause the change of a compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0292] The heat of fusion consumed at 25°C is the amount of energy absorbed by a sample in changing from a solid state to a state at 25°C composed of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0293] The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C preferably represents between 30% and 100% by weight of the compound, preferably between 50% and 100% by weight, more preferably between 60% and 100% by weight of the compound. If the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the end temperature of the melting range of the pasty compound is below 32°C.

[0294] The liquid fraction of butter measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound, which is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C.

[0295] For hardness measurements, the sample preparation and measurement protocol is as follows.

[0296] The composition or butter according to the invention is placed in a 75 mm diameter mold and filled to about 75% of its height. To overcome the thermal history and control crystallization, the mold is placed in a Voetsch VC0018 programmable oven, where it is first placed at a temperature of 80°C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 5°C / min, then left at a stabilization temperature of 0°C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature increase in the range from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min, then left at a stabilization temperature of 20°C for 180 minutes.

[0297] Compression force measurements are carried out using a TA / TX2i texturometer from Swantech. The spindle used is selected depending on the texture: - Cylindrical steel spindle with a diameter of 2 mm for very hard starting materials; - Cylindrical steel spindle with a diameter of 12 mm for less hard starting materials.

[0298] The measurement involves three steps. a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample, in which the spindle, moving at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, penetrates the composition or butter according to the invention to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, and the software records the maximum force value reached; - The second step known as relaxation, where the spindle remains in this position for 1 second, and after 1 second of relaxation, the force is recorded, and finally, - The third step, known as withdrawal, in which the spindle returns to its original position at a speed of 1 mm / s and the withdrawal energy (negative force) of the spindle is recorded.

[0299] The hardness value measured during the first step is the maximum compressive force, measured in Newtons, of the butter or of the composition according to the invention in mm 2 The hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.

[0300] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particular butter is of vegetable origin, such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published online: JUN 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0301] More particularly, shea butter, nilotica (Butyrospermum parkii) shea butter, garam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or Tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, illipe butter, mahua butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, moula butter (Mahua latifolia), katiau butter (Mahua mottleyana), purwala butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), murumuru), coca butter (Garcinia indica), ukuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, pineapple butter (cupanhão) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and sunflower butter may be mentioned. Preferentially, the butter according to the invention is chosen from murumuru butter, ukuba butter, shorea butter, illipe butter, shea butter and cupuaçu butter, and even more preferentially shea butter.

[0302] In one preferred variant of the invention, the C expressed relative to the total amount of fatty acid triglycerides16 The content by mass of fatty acid triglycerides ranges from 0 to 22%, even better from 0 to 15%, and even better from 2% to 12%.

[0303] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more butters in an amount of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, inclusive, more in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, inclusive, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, inclusive, and more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, inclusive, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0304] Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are liquids at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e., 1.013 x 10 5 It contains one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (Pa).

[0305] Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from: a) butter, preferably shea butter; b) wax, preferably beeswax; c) C is preferred 10 ~C 22 , more preferentially C 14 ~C 20 , and even better C 16 ~C 18 non-liquid fatty alcohols, chosen in particular from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof; d) non-liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, especially C9-C 26 Fatty acids and C9-C 26 solid esters derived from fatty alcohols, in particular alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, more in particular myristyl myristate; e) esters of monoalcohols, where at least one of the alcohols or acids from which the ester is derived is branched, such as ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and C 10 ~C 22 , preferably C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl (iso)stearates, such as isopropyl isostearate; f) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and also mixtures thereof, preferably cyclohexadimethylsiloxane; g) oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic triglyceride or alternatively sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglyceride, jojoba oil, shea oil, preferably caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0306] The fatty substances used in the compositions according to the invention may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0307] vi) Alkalizing agents: According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises vi) one or more alkalizing agents (also called bases), which may be chosen from inorganic, organic or hybrid alkalizing agents or mixtures thereof.

[0308] The inorganic alkalizing agent is preferably selected from aqueous ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, sodium or potassium hydroxide or mixtures thereof.

[0309] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alkalizing agents are organic amines, ie they contain at least one substituted or unsubstituted amino group.

[0310] The organic alkalizing agent has a pK at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. b This is because the pK corresponding to the functional group with the highest basicity is b It should be noted that

[0311] Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include salts of the abovementioned amines with acids, such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.

[0312] Organic alkalizing agents include, for example, alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (IV): [ka] (In formula (IV): - W is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene or C1-C6 alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group, and / or one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen or NR u is optionally interrupted by - R, which may be the same or different x , R y , R z , R t and R u represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl group) The compound is selected from the group consisting of:

[0313] Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

[0314] The term "alkanolamine" means an organic amine containing one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing a primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functional group and one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0315] Alkanolamines containing one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines, are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0316] Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0317] More particularly, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin in L, D or racemic form and more particularly contain at least one acid function selected from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid and phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.

[0318] Amino acids that may be used in the present invention may include, inter alia, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

[0319] Advantageously, the amino acid is a basic amino acid containing an additional amine function optionally contained in the ring or a ureido function, in particular chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

[0320] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of the heterocyclic type. In addition to histidine, which has already been mentioned among the amino acids, mention may be made in particular of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.

[0321] The organic amine may also be selected from amino acid dipeptides, including carnosine, anserine and balenine, among others, which may be used in the present invention.

[0322] The organic amine is selected from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. In addition to arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, amines of this type that can be used in the present invention include, in particular, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

[0323] Mention may in particular be made of the use of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.

[0324] The composition of the invention preferably contains one or more alkanolamines and / or one or more basic amino acids, more advantageously one or more alkanolamines. Even more preferentially, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.

[0325] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise one or more alkanolamines as alkalizing agents.

[0326] Preferably, the alkanolamine is triethanolamine.

[0327] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a content of alkalizing agent ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.

[0328] composition The subject of the present invention is i) one or more 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one compounds as defined above; ii) one or more preservatives other than i) and / or one or more antioxidants as defined above, preferably 4-hydroxyacetophenone, iii) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic and zwitterionic surfactants; iv) one or more, preferably organic, thickening polymers as defined above; v) optionally with one or more fatty substances as defined above; A composition comprising:

[0329] According to one variant of the invention, the composition comprises: i) one or more 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one compounds as defined above; ii) one or more preservatives other than i); iii) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic and zwitterionic surfactants; iv) one or more, preferably organic, thickening polymers as defined above; v) optionally with one or more fatty substances as defined above; A composition comprising:

[0330] According to one variant of the invention, the composition comprises: i) one or more 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one compounds as defined above; ii) one or more antioxidants as defined above, preferably 4-hydroxyacetophenone; iii) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic and zwitterionic surfactants; iv) one or more, preferably organic, thickening polymers as defined above; v) optionally with one or more fatty substances as defined above; A composition comprising:

[0331] According to yet another embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises: i) one or more 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one compounds as defined above; ii) one or more preservatives other than i) and one or more antioxidants as defined above, preferably 4-hydroxyacetophenone; iii) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic and zwitterionic surfactants; iv) one or more, preferably organic, thickening polymers as defined above; v) optionally with one or more fatty substances as defined above; A composition comprising:

[0332] The composition is in a physiologically acceptable medium. The composition is in particular a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition. The composition can also be a food (nutritional) composition.

[0333] Physiologically acceptable medium: The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for application to keratin materials, also known as a formula support, which is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical medium generally composed of water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents. Preferably, the composition comprises water in a content of 5% to 99.9%, inclusive, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially 10% to 90%, and even more preferentially 20% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0334] Organic solvents: The term "organic solvent" means an organic substance that can dissolve another substance without chemically altering it.

[0335] Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, b) polyols that are miscible with water at room temperature (25°C), in particular polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol, c) polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also d) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.

[0336] According to a particular embodiment, the composition also comprises one or more polyols chosen in particular from polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol.

[0337] In a preferred embodiment, 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one is used in combination with an effective amount of at least one organic solvent, which may be selected from ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol containing eight ethylene glycol units), propylene carbonate, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-hexylene glycol, PEG-4.

[0338] Preferably, the organic solvent is selected from ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, PEG-8 and propylene carbonate.

[0339] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises 1,3-propanediol in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0340] For food compositions, water and an organic solvent suitable for consumption, such as ethanol, are preferred.

[0341] The organic solvent is preferably present in a proportion of from about 0.1% to 40% by weight, inclusive, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially from about 1% to 20% by weight, and even more particularly from 5% to 10% by weight, inclusive, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0342] pH: The pH of the compositions according to the invention is generally between about 2 and 12 inclusive, preferably between about 3 and 11. This can be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or alkalizing agents commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres or alternatively using standard buffer systems.

[0343] The pH of the composition is preferentially between 4.5 and 10 inclusive, in particular between 6 and 9, more particularly between 7 and 9, even more particularly an approximately neutral pH of 7.

[0344] Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids as defined above, in particular hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0345] Among the bases or alkalizing agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines and other alkalizing agents as defined below, preferably alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine.

[0346] Preferably, the composition comprises i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one, and also its organic or inorganic acid or base salts and solvates thereof, such as hydrates, in a content ranging from 0.02% to 2% by weight, preferentially from 0.03% to 1% by weight and even better from 0.04% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0347] A subject of the present invention is also a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an antimicrobial mixture as defined above.

[0348] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with human keratinous materials, such as the skin, scalp, nails and keratinous fibers, such as hair.

[0349] The medium may comprise one or more further components different from components i) and ii).

[0350] The composition may comprise one or more further ingredients or adjuvants selected from gelling agents other than the organic thickening polymers defined above, non-anionic, cationic, non-ionic or zwitterionic natural or synthetic film-forming or non-film-forming non-thickening polymers, coloring materials, such as organic or inorganic pigments, fragrances, fillers, UV-screening agents, plant extracts, cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients and salts.

[0351] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or a multiple emulsion (triple, W / O / W or O / W / O), an oily solution, an oily gel, an aqueous solution, an aqueous gel or a solid composition. The compositions of the invention are prepared by conventional methods.

[0352] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises water, i.e., is aqueous. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises an aqueous phase and an organic or oily phase. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is an O / W direct emulsion.

[0353] The compositions according to the invention may be more or less liquid and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick or compact powder.

[0354] The compositions according to the invention may in particular be in the following form: - make-up products, in particular for making up the skin of the face, body or lips or eyelashes; - Aftershave gel or lotion; shaving products; - Deodorants (stick, roll-on or aerosol); - Hair removal cream; - personal hygiene compositions such as shower gels or shampoos; - pharmaceutical compositions; - solid compositions such as soaps or cleansing bars; - aerosol compositions which also contain a pressurized propellant; - hair setting lotions, hair styling creams or gels, dye compositions, permanent wave compositions, lotions or gels for preventing hair loss or hair conditioners; - compositions for caring for or cleansing the skin.

[0355] Method for preparing the composition: A subject of the present invention is also a process for preparing a composition, in particular a cosmetic, or pharmaceutical, or food composition, comprising the step of mixing i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one or a base salt or solvate thereof, ii) 4-hydroxyacetophenone or a base salt or solvate thereof, and optionally one or more further ingredients or adjuvants, in particular cosmetic, pharmaceutical, or food ingredients or adjuvants, such as those described previously, and optionally water and one or more organic solvents.

[0356] Its antimicrobial activity and uses: The antimicrobial activity, especially the synergistic antimicrobial activity, of the mixtures i) and ii) according to the invention against fungi, in particular against the species Candida albicans, is valuable in water treatment. In particular, fungi represent one of the sources of water contamination listed in the article "Fungal Contaminants in Drinking Water Regulation? A Tale of Ecology, Exposure, Purification and Clinical Relevance", Int. J. Environ. Res. Public Health 2017, 14, 636.

[0357] The present invention also relates to the use of the antimicrobial mixture in water treatment, wherein said water is selected from domestic or industrial water, water from aqueous media, water from swimming pools / spas and water from air conditioning systems.

[0358] The term "water treatment" refers to a continuous or discontinuous (batch type) treatment consisting of adding substances to the water sample or stream to be treated, for the purpose of preventing the contamination of water with pollutants or of partially or completely removing said pollutants from said water to be treated.

[0359] Preferably, the water treatment carried out in connection with the present invention consists of adding, continuously or discontinuously, a substance to a sample of water to be treated or to a water stream to be treated in order to partially or completely decontaminate contaminants from said water to be treated.

[0360] The contaminants may be microorganisms, in particular bacteria and / or fungi.

[0361] Even more preferentially, said water treatment is the treatment of water contaminated with one or more microorganisms, preferably gram-positive or gram-negative bacteria or fungi of the species Enterococcus faecalis, Candida albicans or Pseudomonas aeruginosa.

[0362] The term "water from an aqueous medium" means water from lakes, river tributaries, swimming pools, main rivers, sea or bathing water, underground water such as well water and groundwater, and water from aquariums.

[0363] For the purposes of the present invention, "domestic or industrial water" includes wastewater before it is treated at a water treatment plant, water undergoing treatment at a water treatment plant, water before it is treated at a drinking water treatment plant, water undergoing treatment at a drinking water treatment plant, and also water circulating in a drinking or non-potable water municipal network, for example water circulating in pipes.

[0364] The present invention also relates to a continuous or discontinuous water treatment method comprising at least one step of placing a water sample or a water stream to be treated, said water to be treated being selected from domestic or industrial water, water from aqueous media, water from swimming pools / spas and water from air conditioning systems, in contact with the antimicrobial mixture according to the invention.

[0365] Preferably, said step of contacting the water to be treated with the antimicrobial mixture according to the invention may be carried out by injection, in particular in liquid form of said compound, by passing through a filter or filtration cartridge containing said compound, or by administration of said compound in solid form, in particular in the form of granules, tablets or pellets.

[0366] i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and also its organic or inorganic acid or base salts and solvates thereof, such as hydrates, can be used in a proportion of at least 0.06% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, and even better at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the water to be treated. In one particular embodiment, the compound of formula (I) or (I') or its solvates, such as hydrates, can be used in a proportion of at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the water to be treated.

[0367] i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and also its organic or inorganic acid or base salts and solvates thereof, such as hydrates, can be used in concentrations ranging from 0.06% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the water to be treated. In a preferred embodiment, 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one can be used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the water to be treated.

[0368] The solvent may be used in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the water to be treated, preferably in a range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferentially in a range from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the water to be treated.

[0369] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the examples that follow. The component contents are expressed as weight percent. [Example]

[0370] Example 1: Determination of synergistic antimicrobial activity as MIC The synergistic antimicrobial activity effect of a mixture of 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one (referred to as substance A) and an alcohol compound (referred to as substance B) was expressed by calculating the synergy index (or FIC index) according to the following formula: [Formula 1] FIC index = (MIC of A combined with B / MIC of A) + (MIC of B combined with A / MIC of B) During the ceremony, - MIC of A together with B: the minimum concentration of product A in the combination A+B that makes it possible to obtain an inhibitory effect; - MIC of B together with A: the minimum concentration of product B in the combination A+B that makes it possible to obtain an inhibitory effect; - MIC of A: minimum inhibitory concentration of product A alone; - MIC of B: minimum inhibitory concentration of product B alone.

[0371] This formula was first described by F.C. Kull, P.C. Eisman, H.D. Sylwestrowka and R.L. Mayer in Applied Microbiology 9:538-541, 1961.

[0372] For each compound tested alone, the MIC is considered to be the first concentration that makes it possible to obtain a microbial growth percentage of less than or equal to 25%.

[0373] For the combinations tested, the MIC of A together with B and the MIC of B together with A are the respective concentrations of A and B in the combination that make it possible to obtain a microbial growth percentage of 25% or less.

[0374] Interpretation of the FIC index: If the FIC index value is less than or equal to 1, the combination of test compounds is considered to have a synergistic effect.

[0375] A summary of the results obtained is given in the table below.

[0376] The combination of compounds A and B and compositions containing them were tested against the following strains or portions thereof: Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans.

[0377] The microbial strain Aspergillus niger ATCC 6275 and double-strength Sabouraud broth liquid culture medium supplemented with polyoxyethylated (20OE) sorbitan monopalmitate (Tween 40 from Croda) and Phytagel © BioReagent were used (i.e., a mixture of 5g Phytagel + 0.6g Tween 40 + 60g Sabouraud broth).

[0378] The microbial strain Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 and a double-strength nutrient broth liquid culture medium were used.

[0379] The microbial strain Candida albicans ATCC 10231 and a double-strength Sabouraud broth liquid culture medium were used (i.e., a mixture of 5 g Phytagel + 0.6 g Tween 40 + 60 g Sabouraud broth).

[0380] A 96-well microplate is used with an incubation temperature of 32.5°C.

[0381] The microplate incubation times are as follows: - Aspergillus niger ATCC 6275 under aerobic conditions for 24-30 hours; - Candida albicans ATCC 10231, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027, and Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 under aerobic conditions for 18 to 24 hours.

[0382] test For each compound, A = Compound i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one B = Compound ii) Preservative and / or Antioxidant: B1: 4-hydroxyacetophenone, B2: salicylic acid.

[0383] Testing Compounds A and B alone 50 μl of each of the resulting daughter solutions containing compound A or B was added to a microplate well, along with 100 μl of Sabouraud liquid nutrient broth and 50 μl of the solution inoculated with double concentrations of Aspergillus niger strains.

[0384] Testing Compounds A and B as a Mixture 50 μl of each of the resulting daughter solutions containing compound A and 50 μl of each of the resulting daughter solutions containing compound B are added to a microplate well, along with 100 μl of Sabouraud liquid nutrient broth inoculated with double concentrations of the strain Aspergillus niger.

[0385] Microbial Growth Control A positive microbial growth control was also prepared, corresponding to a mixture of 100 μl of 1‰ aqueous agar and 100 μl of Sabouraud liquid nutrient broth inoculated at double concentration with the strain Aspergillus niger in the absence of compounds A and B.

[0386] Absorbance controls for compounds A and B alone Absorbance controls were run in parallel for Compounds A and B alone, corresponding to 100 μl of double-concentrated sterile Sabouraud liquid nutrient broth plus 100 μl of double-concentrated Compound A or B.

[0387] In all three cases (absorbance control, growth control and test), the final volume present in each of the microplate wells is 200 μl.

[0388] In both cases (test and control), the inoculum represents the concentration of Aspergillus niger strains present in the final volume of the well (200 μl), ranging from 2 to 6 × 10 5 cfu / ml of Aspergillus niger.

[0389] The minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) of each of Compounds A and B alone and in combination were determined by optical density measurements at a wavelength of 620 nm using known methods.

[0390] The above tests (test, absorbance control and growth control) were repeated to test combination A+B against the following strains: Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans.

[0391] The following results were obtained with compound B1 = 4-hydroxyacetophenone.

[0392] Other compositions were also evaluated for antimicrobial properties, such as those listed in Table 3 below, where the ingredients are listed by mass (g) per 100 g of composition. Properties were evaluated at 7 days, 14 days, and 1 month.

[0393] [Table 1]

[0394] The results for the microbial strain Escherichia coli at 7 days are shown in the table below.

[0395] [Table 2]

[0396] The results for the microbial strain Staphylococcus aureus on days 7 and 14 are shown in the table below.

[0397] [Table 3]

[0398] Results for other microbial strains at 7 days, 14 days and then 1 month are shown in the table below.

[0399] [Table 4]

[0400] The results in the above table show that the combination of A and B1 according to the invention allows a significant antimicrobial improvement after 7 days, 15 days or even 1 month for various microbial strains (Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans).

[0401] ii) The following compositions were prepared using Compound B2 = salicylic acid:

[0402] [Table 5]

[0403] It can be seen that comparative composition 5, which contains a cationic surfactant, is not as stable as inventive composition 4. In addition, inventive composition 4 has a viscosity of 32.5 poise, while comparative composition 5 has a viscosity of 51.5 poise, making it more viscous. These viscosity values ​​were measured at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0404] Other comparative studies: The following two compositions were prepared, with the amounts of ingredients given in grams per 100 grams of composition.

[0405] [Table 6]

[0406] The compositions according to the invention are shiny, airy, white and have a "base" odor.

[0407] Microscopic evaluation of the composition: Using 400x magnification and under a white light microscope (Leica DM2500 with Archimed Microvision software), it can be seen that comparative composition 6 contains vacuoles, whereas composition 7 according to the invention is more organized and does not contain visible vacuoles, making it more stable.

[0408] Sensory evaluation: The application of composition 7 of the present invention is fresher, easier, more adhesive and applies better with a pleasant sensation by rolling the fingers over the skin for a significantly longer period than that obtained with composition 6.

[0409] It can also be seen that after application of composition 7 according to the invention to the skin there is a much more matte and soft-focus appearance than that obtained with comparative composition 6.

[0410] Measurement of soft focus / matt effect on keratin materials: A Byk Haze Meter, Model: HazeGard Plus, was used to measure transmittance, haze and brightness.

[0411] The matte effect soft focus results after application to the skin, judged by a panel of evaluators, are supported by transmittance, haze, brightness and gloss measurements. The "haze" parameter is measured to quantify the light transmitted through the formulation and also its soft focus ability. Haze measurement consists of determining the amount of light rays that deviate from their trajectory by the sample, which makes it possible to quantify the soft focus power of the material.

[0412] Test conditions: Room temperature: 25°C, film drying temperature: 25°C, film drying time: 1 hour.

[0413] Elcometer spreader, model: 4340 - A transparent 100 micron sheet is placed on the spreader and adjusted to a thickness of 25 microns at a given position, then the sample is added and the film is allowed to dry at room temperature for 1 hour. The transparency sheet with the 25 micron thick sample spread on it is then placed over the lens of the instrument and the H (haze) and B (brightness) values ​​are measured.

[0414] To measure the gloss, a Byk glossmeter model: Micro TRI gloss is used. The application is the same as above, but the measurement is carried out using a transparent sheet placed on a black surface and the glossmeter directly.

[0415] [Table 7]

[0416] The results in Table 7 show that the composition according to the present invention, Composition 7, can significantly improve the soft focus and matte effect compared to the comparative composition.

Claims

1. i) one or more 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one compounds or one or more organic or inorganic base salts thereof and also solvates thereof, such as hydrates, ii) one or more preservatives other than i) and / or one or more antioxidants; iii) one or more surfactants; and iv) one or more thickening polymers, preferably organic, and optionally v) one or more fatty substances; wherein it is understood that if said mixture comprises one or more cationic surfactants, said one or more cationic surfactants are in an amount of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of i) to v), preferentially not more than 2% by weight of cationic surfactant, more particularly not more than 1% by weight of cationic surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferentially said composition comprises surfactants in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight, and even better still said mixture does not comprise any cationic surfactant.

2. 2. The mixture according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio i) / ii) is in the range from 0.05 to 5, preferably in the range from 0.08 to 5, more preferentially in the range from 1 to 4 and more preferentially in the range from 3 to 3.

8.

3. The preservatives and / or antioxidants ii) are selected from organic preservatives having aromatic groups, preferably the preservatives other than i) are selected from a) hydroxyl, (C １ ~C １０ ) alkyl and (C １ ~C １０ a) benzene-based carboxylic acids optionally substituted on the phenyl group with one or more groups selected from alkylcarbonyl and also in particular the base salts thereof of alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, b) parabens, in particular methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, (C １ ~C １０ ) hydroxybenzoic acid esters optionally substituted on the phenyl group with one or more groups selected from alkyl, and c) aromatic alcohols, preferably said preservatives other than i) are selected from a) and in particular benzoic acid and also in particular its base salts of alkali metals and alkaline earth metals; and also (C １ ~C ８ 3. A mixture according to claim 1 or 2, wherein ii) is selected from salicylic acids optionally substituted with alkylcarbonyl groups, preferably salicylic acid, and according to one embodiment ii) is selected from c), such as phenoxyethanol.

4. ii) is selected from antioxidants, preferably the antioxidants are keto and / or carboxylic acid heterocyclic compounds, such as caffeine, amino acids and hydroxylated benzene compounds, optionally with one or more (C １ ~C ４ 3. The mixture according to claim 1, wherein the hydroxylated benzene compounds are selected from hydroxylated benzene compounds substituted on the phenyl ring with alkyl groups, in particular from benzene-based alcohols.

5. 5. The mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein ii) is selected from 4-hydroxyacetophenone and also its salts and solvates such as hydrates.

6. 6. A composition comprising a mixture of components i), ii), iii) and iv) and optionally v) according to any one of claims 1 to 5, said composition comprising cationic surfactant in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and even more preferentially said composition comprises less than 0.05%; and even better still, it being understood that said composition of the invention does not comprise any cationic surfactant.

7. 7. The composition of claim 6, comprising one or more surfactants selected from nonionic and anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

8. 8. The composition according to claim 6 or 7, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants selected from (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; glycerolated fatty alcohols; alkyl polyglycosides, preferably oxyethylenated fatty acid mono- and diesters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 200 mol of EO, in particular 10 to 100 EO, such as propylene glycol stearate containing from 10 to 30 EO, for example 20 EO, and glyceryl monostearate / distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO), or mixtures thereof.

9. Alkyl carboxylic acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amido sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amido sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, polyglycoside-polycarbonates and one or more anionic surfactants selected from salts of alkyl diesters of carboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylates, alkylaryl ether carboxylates, alkylamido ether carboxylates, and the corresponding non-salted forms of all said compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all said compounds containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group representing a phenyl group which may be oxyethylenated; preferably, said anionic surfactants may be in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline earth metal salts or mixtures of said compounds, preferably of natural origin, in particular of vegetable origin (C ６ ~C ２４ ) alkyl carboxylic acids, especially (C １０ ~C ２０ 9. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the alkyl carboxylic acid is selected from alkyl carboxylic acids, such as stearic acid.

10. 10. The composition according to any one of claims 6 or 7 to 9, wherein the amount of surfactant preferably ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight, even more particularly from 3% to 8% by weight and more preferentially from 4% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

11. Preferably, a) butter, preferably shea butter; b) a wax, preferably beeswax; c) Preferentially C １０ ~C ２２ , more preferentially C １４ ~C ２０ , and even better C １６ ~C １８ non-liquid fatty alcohols, chosen in particular from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, d) non-liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, especially C ９ ~C ２６ Fatty acids and C ９ ~C ２６ solid esters derived from fatty alcohols, in particular alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, more in particular myristyl myristate, e) Esters of monoalcohols, where at least one of the alcohols or acids from which the ester is derived is branched, such as ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and C １０ ~C ２２ , preferably C １２ ~C ２０ Alkyl (iso)stearates, for example isopropyl isostearate, f) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and also mixtures thereof, preferably cyclohexadimethylsiloxane; g) oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides or alternatively sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglyceride, jojoba oil, shea butter oil The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 10, comprising one or more fatty substances selected from:

12. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 11, comprising one or more fatty substances in an amount ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 6 to 12, comprising one or more thickening organic polymers, in particular of natural or synthetic origin, associative or non-associative, preferably non-associative, and anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers, more in particular anionic.

14. - acrylate monomer CH ２ ═C(R′)—COOR′″ (VIa), and / or - acrylamide monomer CH ２ =C(R')-CO-N(R'')-LY － M (VIb) (In formulas (VIa) and (VIb), * R' and R'', which may be the same or different, are hydrogen atoms or (C １ ~C ６ ) represents an alkyl group, such as methyl, preferably hydrogen, * R''' is an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, hydrogen atom or, in particular, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, carboxyl or amino groups (C １ ~C ６ ) represents an alkyl group, *L represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, divalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally interrupted and / or substituted with one or more heteroatoms, e.g., O or N, and containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, L is the divalent group -[C(R')(R'')] ｐ where p represents an integer from 1 to 4, preferably from 2 to 3, for example 2, and R' and R" are as defined above, more particularly L represents -C(R')(R")-CH ２ - or -CH ２ represents —C(R′)(R″)—, where R′ and R″ are as defined above, and preferably R′ and R″ are —C(R′)(R″)— １ ~C ４ ) represents an alkyl group, for example methyl; *Y － is an anionic group such as a carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, sulfonate or sulfate, preferably —S(O) ２ -O － and M is a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal, such as sodium, and the copolymer is optionally in a normal or reverse emulsion, preferably a reverse emulsion. and more preferentially, said thickening organic polymers of the invention comprise one or more thickening organic polymers resulting from the (co)polymerization of the acrylate monomer CH as defined above. ２ ═C(R′)—COOH (VIa) and acrylamide monomer CH ２ =C(R')-CO-N(R'')-LY － M ＋ 14. Composition according to any one of claims 6 to 13, derived from the copolymerization of (VIb), preferably the thickening organic polymer is chosen, alone or in mixture, from crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.

15. 15. A composition according to any one of claims 6 to 14, comprising one or more thickening organic polymers having sugar units derived in particular from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose, more in particular galactose and anhydrogalactose, preferably wherein the thickening organic polymer having sugar units is selected from agar.

16. 16. Composition according to any one of claims 6 to 15, comprising one or more thickening organic polymers in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. 17. Composition according to any one of claims 6 to 16, comprising one or more fatty substances according to claim 11 or 12 and one or more surfactants according to any one of claims 5 to 9, in which the fatty substance / surfactant weight ratio is between 5 and 20, inclusive, preferably between 8 and 15, and even more preferentially between 10 and 13, for example 11.

8.

18. 18. A composition according to any one of claims 6 to 17, comprising one or more fatty substances according to claim 11 or 12, one or more surfactants according to any one of claims 7 to 10, and one or more thickening organic polymers according to any one of claims 13 to 16, in which the weight ratio of fatty substances to the sum of surfactants and polymers [surfactant+polymer] is between 0.8 and 10, inclusive, in particular between 1 and 5, more in particular between 1.5 and 2.5, for example 1.8 or 1.

9.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 18, which comprises an aqueous phase and an organic or oily phase, and is preferably a normal emulsion of the oil-in-water (O / W) type.

20. In particular, a) C ２ ~C ６ 20. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 19, comprising one or more organic solvents selected from alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, b) polyols that are miscible with water at room temperature (25°C), in particular containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol, c) polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also d) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more polyols selected in particular from polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol.

21. 21. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 20, comprising one or more organic solvents present in an amount of from 0.1% to 40% by weight, inclusive, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, and even more particularly from 5% to 10% by weight, inclusive, relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method, in particular for caring for and / or making up and / or cleansing keratinous materials, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to any one of claims 6 to 21.

23. A method for preserving a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, characterized in that it comprises incorporating into said composition an antimicrobial mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 5 or a composition according to any one of claims 6 to 21.

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