Hair reshaping composition containing malic acid and betaine

Abstract

The claimed invention relates to a composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising as ingredients (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent, (B) at least one alkalizing agent, (C) malic acid and / or malate, (D) at least one betaine, and optionally (E) at least one disulfide-based compound. The claimed invention further relates to a kit for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising the composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent. Another aspect of the claimed invention is a method for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The claimed invention relates to a composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising as ingredients (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent, (B) at least one alkalizing agent, (C) malic acid and / or malate, (D) at least one betaine, and optionally (E) at least one disulfide-based compound. The claimed invention further relates to a kit for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising the composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent. Another aspect of the claimed invention is a method for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers.

[0002] Keratin fibers, such as human hair, vary in their morphological structure from root to tip. This is due, among other things, to environmental influences such as the action of sunlight or weathering agents, which can damage keratin fibers. Other factors that can damage keratin fibers are, for example, chemical and mechanical hair treatments such as combing, brushing, washing, or dyeing. These external influences and changes in the morphology of keratin fibers can lead to increased static electricity, difficulty in combing, unpleasant roughness, reduced shine, and increased hair fragility. In extreme cases, this can lead to hair breakage during or after hair treatment.

[0003] Another well-known method of hair treatment is hair reshaping, such as permanent waving or permanent straightening of keratinous fibers.

[0004] Well-known and commonly used methods for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, generally involve a reduction step in which a composition comprising at least one reducing agent is applied to the hair, followed by an oxidation step in which a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the hair. In particular, the reduction step is often perceived as damaging to keratinous fibers.

[0005] There is a need to provide a composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, that has a protective effect, particularly during the reduction process. A composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers should preferably reduce the degree of hair degradation during the reduction process.

[0006] The above purpose is to use the following ingredients: (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent; (B) at least one alkalizing agent; (C) malic acid and / or malate salts, (D) at least one betaine, and (E) optionally at least one disulfide-based compound The problem is solved by a composition for permanently reshaping keratin fibers (CR), comprising:

[0007] Therefore, another aspect of the claimed invention is directed to a kit for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising a composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) as described herein and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

[0008] Another aspect of the claimed invention is i) applying to keratinous fibers a composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) as described herein, ii) reshaping the keratin fibers, and iii) applying a neutralizing composition (CN) containing at least one oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers; The present invention is directed to a method for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising:

[0009] In one embodiment, the composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) may optionally contain one, two or more of the following ingredients: (F) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; (G) at least one surfactant, and (H) At least one additional ingredient.

[0010] [Definition] As used in this specification and the appended claims, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" include plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. The term "may," in the context of this application, means "allowable" or "possible," and is synonymous with the term "can." As used herein, the term "may" does not imply possibility or likelihood.

[0011] The term "and / or" in the context of this application means one or the other or both. For example, an aqueous solution of A and / or B means an aqueous solution of A alone, an aqueous solution of B alone, and an aqueous solution of A and B in combination.

[0012] The term "about" is understood to mean ±10 percent of a stated number, numbers, or range of numbers. In some embodiments, the term "about" is understood to mean ±2 percent of a stated number, numbers, or range of numbers.

[0013] As used herein, the term "optionally" means that the corresponding step or feature may or may not be present. Both possibilities are included.

[0014] The terms "parts by weight" (PBW) and "parts by volume" (PBV) are used in their ordinary sense. When used in a mixed context, such as the amount of a component designated by PBW mixed with a component designated by PBV, the terms PBW and PBV as used herein refer to the amount in grams of the component designated by PBW per volume in milliliters of the amount of the component designated by PBV.

[0015] As used herein, the term "composition" refers to a mixture or blend containing at least two components. A typical composition contains at least one functional component (e.g., an active ingredient, such as malic acid and / or a malate salt) and at least one solvent component (e.g., water or alcohol). The composition may be in any suitable physical form, including, for example, liquids of various viscosities, gels, foams, creams, etc. The term "composition" may refer to a ready-to-use product, unless the context requires otherwise.

[0016] "Ready-to-use scalp and hair treatment product" means a form in which the composition is actually applied to the human scalp or skin area, including facial hair.

[0017] The term "essentially free" of a particular component means that the respective component is present in an entity, such as a composition, in an amount of less than 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the entity. In particular, the term "essentially free" means that the respective component is present in an entity in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight, e.g., less than 0.1% by weight, e.g., less than 0.01% by weight.

[0018] The term "free of" a particular component means an amount below the detection limit, assuming that the detectability is on a ppm (parts per million) basis (by weight). In particular, the term "free of" a particular component means that the respective component is present in the entity at less than 50 ppm by weight, e.g., less than 10 ppm by weight, e.g., less than 5 ppm by weight.

[0019] The term "consisting essentially of" means that no additional components not specifically recited are present in an entity, such as a composition, in an amount greater than 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the entity. In particular, the term "consisting essentially of" means that no additional components not specifically recited are present in the entity in an amount greater than 0.5% by weight, e.g., greater than 0.1% by weight, e.g., greater than 0.01% by weight. Needless to say, any additional components not specifically recited are compatible with and do not interfere with the function of the specifically recited components.

[0020] The term "consisting of" means that no additional components not specifically recited are present in an entity, such as a composition, in amounts below the limit of detection, assuming that detectability is on a ppm (parts per million) basis (by weight). In particular, the term "consisting of" means that no additional components not specifically listed are present in the entity in an amount greater than 50 ppm by weight, e.g., greater than 10 ppm by weight, e.g., greater than 10 ppm by weight. Needless to say, any additional components not specifically listed are compatible with and do not interfere with the function of the specifically recited components.

[0021] As used herein, the term "keratinous fibers" refers generally to mammalian hair, but particularly to human hair. More specifically, for purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" refers to human "head hair" or "head hair" and human "facial hair." The term "facial hair" includes beard hair, eyebrows, and eyelashes.

[0022] In this specification, the terms "composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers" and "composition (CR)" are used synonymously and therefore have the same meaning. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found that a combination of malic acid and / or a malate (component (C)) and at least one betaine (component (D)) is effective for protecting keratinous fibers in a method for durably reshaping the same. The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found that a combination of malic acid and / or a malate (component (C)) and at least one betaine (component (D)) is synergistically effective for protecting keratinous fibers in a method for durably reshaping the same.

[0024] [Component (A)] In this application, the terms "(A)", "component (A)", and "at least one thiol-based reducing agent" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one thiol-based reducing agent" refers to exactly one thiol-based reducing agent, as well as to a mixture of two or more different thiol-based reducing agents.

[0025] The thiol-based reducing agent (component (A)) can reduce disulfide-cysteine ​​bonds in keratin fibers, particularly in the cortex of the hair shaft, which is located between the hair cuticle and the medulla and is the thickest layer of hair. In a sense, the thiol-based reducing agent (component (A)) removes crosslinks.

[0026] In one embodiment, the thiol-based reducing agent (component A) is selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, glycerol monothiolactate, ammonium thiolactate, MEA thiolactate, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate, ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine, cysteine ​​alkyl esters, homocysteine, thioglycolic acid, ethanolamine thioglycolate, glyceryl thioglycolate, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0027] In another preferred embodiment, the thiol-based reducing agent (component (A)) is selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, cysteine, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred thiol-based reducing agents that can be used as component (A) are ammonium thioglycolate and cysteine, with ammonium thioglycolate being especially preferred.

[0028] Ammonium thioglycolate is the ammonium salt of thioglycolic acid and has the CAS number 5421-46-5.

[0029] The amount of component (A) in the composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, preferably human hair, used in accordance with the present disclosure is not particularly critical. Typically, component (A) is present in an amount of 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

[0030] If the amount of component (A) is less than 4% by weight, it may be difficult to achieve the effects sought by the present disclosure. If the amount exceeds 15% by weight, the effects may not be further improved or may damage keratin fibers, particularly human hair, and may also lead to an increase in the cost of material resources for the composition (CR).

[0031] In one embodiment, component (A) is present in an amount in the range of 1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range of 1.5 to 14% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 3 to 13% by weight, and most preferably in an amount in the range of 5 to 13.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of composition (CR).

[0032] [Component (B)] In this application, "(B)", "component (B)", and "at least one alkalizing agent" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one alkalizing agent" in this application refers to exactly one alkalizing agent and also to a mixture of two or more different alkalizing agents.

[0033] In a preferred embodiment, in composition (CR), component (B) is at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of 2-amino-1-propanol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-dimethylamino-2-pentyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 3-amino-1-propanol, ammonia, and monoethanolamine, with ammonia, 2-amino-1-propanol, and monoethanolamine being particularly preferred.

[0034] In another preferred embodiment, component (B) is ammonia or monoethanolamine, with ammonia being especially preferred.

[0035] In one embodiment, component (B) is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.15 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 3% by weight, and most preferably in an amount in the range of 0.25 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of composition (CR).

[0036] [Component (C)] In this application, the terms "(C)", "component (C)", and "malic acid and / or malate" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning.

[0037] Malic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with the molecular formula C4H6O5. Malic acid exists in two stereoenantiomeric forms, L and D. Only the L form exists in nature. Racemic malic acid can be produced by a two-step hydration reaction of maleic anhydride. Racemic malic acid contains a mixture of the L and D forms of malic acid.

[0038] Malic acid and / or malate salts are one of the active ingredients for protecting keratinous fibers in a method for permanently reshaping the keratinous fibers.

[0039] As component (C), preferably racemic malic acid and / or racemic malate salts are used. Suitable salts of malic acid, preferably racemic malic acid, are the sodium or ammonium salts of malic acid, preferably the sodium or ammonium salts of racemic malic acid.

[0040] In a particularly preferred embodiment, racemic malic acid is used as component (C). Racemic malic acid has the CAS number 6915-15-7.

[0041] In one embodiment, component (C) is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.25 to 8% by weight, and most preferably in an amount in the range of 0.3 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of composition (CR).

[0042] [Component (D)] In this application, the terms "(D)", "component (D)", and "at least one betaine" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one betaine" in this application refers to exactly one betaine and also to a mixture of two or more different betaines.

[0043] At least one betaine is another active ingredient for protecting keratinous fibers in a method for permanently reshaping the keratinous fibers.

[0044] In one embodiment of the present invention, the betaine (component (D)) may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers contains, as component (D), a compound of formula (I) TIFF2026503356000001.tif9170 (in the above formula, R f , R g and R h are the same or different and contain at least one betaine selected from the group consisting of C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, and C1-C6 carboxyalkyl).

[0046] In a preferred embodiment, R in formula (I) f , R g and R h are each the same or different and are selected from the group consisting of C1-C6 alkyl, more preferably selected from the group consisting of C1-C4 alkyl, and particularly preferably selected from the group consisting of C1-C2 alkyl.

[0047] In a particularly preferred embodiment, component (D) is trimethylglycine. Trimethylglycine is an amino acid derivative. It was the first betaine discovered. The IUPAC name for trimethylglycine is (trimethylammonio)acetate. The CAS number for trimethylglycine is 107-43-7.

[0048] In one embodiment, component (D) is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.25 to 8% by weight, and most preferably in an amount in the range of 0.3 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of composition (CR).

[0049] [Component (E)] In this application, the terms "(E)", "component (E)", and "at least one disulfide compound" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. In this application, the term "at least one disulfide compound" refers to exactly one disulfide compound and also to a mixture of two or more different disulfide compounds. In a preferred embodiment, when component (E) is present in composition (CR), exactly one disulfide compound is used.

[0050] In one embodiment of the present invention, the disulfide-based compound (component (E)) may be selected from the group consisting of dithiodiglycolic acid, its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Non-limiting examples include dithiodiglycolic acid, diammonium dithiodiglycolate, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, component (E), when present in composition (CR), is diammonium dithiodiglycolate.

[0052] In one embodiment, component (E) is present in an amount in the range of 0 to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.5 to 6% by weight, and most preferably in an amount in the range of 1 to 4% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of composition (CR).

[0053] [Component (F)] In this application, the terms "(F)", "component (F)" and "at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent" means exactly one cosmetically acceptable solvent and also a mixture of two or more different cosmetically acceptable solvents. Preferably, a mixture of two or more different cosmetically acceptable solvents is used as component (F).

[0054] The cosmetically acceptable solvent used in the composition (CR) is preferably aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous-alcoholic. Typically, the cosmetically acceptable solvent comprises water and one or more monohydric and / or polyhydric C1-C4 alcohols. According to an embodiment, the solvent comprises water and an alcohol selected from ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol, or a combination thereof.

[0055] In one embodiment, component (F) is present in an amount in the range of 30 to 98.7% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range of 45 to 96.949% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 54 to 94.29% by weight, and most preferably in an amount in the range of 65.5 to 91.55% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of composition (CR).

[0056] If composition (CR) comprises at least one disulfide-based component (component (E)), in one embodiment component (F) is present in an amount in the range of 20 to 98.7% by weight, preferably in an amount in the range of 37 to 96.849% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 48 to 93.79% by weight, and most preferably in an amount in the range of 61.5 to 90.55% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of composition (CR).

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, component (F) comprises at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, and particularly preferably at least 65% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of component (F) contained in composition (CR).

[0058] [Component (G)] In this application, the terms "(G)", "component (G)" and "at least one surfactant" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one surfactant" refers to exactly one surfactant and also to a mixture of two or more different surfactants. Preferably, a mixture of two or more different surfactants is used as component (G).

[0059] Suitable surfactants for component (G) include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants.

[0060] The anionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of salts (e.g., alkali salts, e.g., sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts, and magnesium salts) of the following compounds: fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl amido sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alpha olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amido sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isethionates; N-acyltaurates; and mixtures thereof. The alkyl or acyl groups of these various compounds contain, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl groups are selected, for example, from phenyl and benzyl. Weak anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acid and its salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, e.g., those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof. Anionic derivatives of polysaccharides, such as carboxyalkyl ethers of alkyl polyglucosides, can also be used.

[0061] Suitable anionic surfactants (ingredient (G)) may contain at least one anionic functional group in their head group selected from carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, and phosphate and carboxylate groups.

[0062] Suitable alkyl sulfates include ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate (sodium dodecyl sulfate, SLS, or SDS), and alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium laureth sulfate (sodium lauryl ether sulfate, or SLES) and sodium myreth sulfate. Further suitable anionic surfactants include docusate (sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate), alkyl aryl ether phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium laureth sulfate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and sodium lauryl sulfoacetate.

[0063] Preferred anionic surfactants may be selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium laureth ether sulfate, sodium dodecyl sulfate, ammonium laureth ether sulfate, ammonium dodecyl sulfate, alkyl benzene sulfonates, and combinations thereof.

[0064] In a preferred embodiment, component (G) is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-31, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-33, polyquaternium-34, polyquaternium-35, polyquaternium-36, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-38, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67 and at least one cationic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-31, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-33, polyquaternium-34, polyquaternium-35, polyquaternium-36, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, and polyquaternium-47, and additional quaternary ammonium compounds.

[0065] In a more preferred embodiment, component (G) is at least one cationic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-11.

[0066] Suitable further quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably those selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] The surfactant (component (G)) may be a nonionic surfactant. The nonionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of lanolin alcohol, polyoxyethylene ethers of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. The nonionic surfactant may preferably be ceteareth-n (where n is 2 to 100, or 10 to 30). Suitable nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds (see, for example, MR Porter, "Handbook of Surfactants," Blackie & Son, Glasgow and London, 1991, pp. 116-178). Preferred surfactants include nonionic surfactants, particularly polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols or oils. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants include polyoxyethylated castor oil and hydrogenated polyoxylated castor oil. Specific examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present disclosure are PEG-35 castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and combinations thereof.

[0068] In a more preferred embodiment, component (G) is at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of steareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, polyquaternium-6, and polyquaternium-11.

[0069] Component (G) is preferably present in an amount of 0 to 15 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 12 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 to 11 wt.%, and most preferably 2.5 to 10 wt.%, the wt.% values ​​being based on the total weight of composition (CR).

[0070] [Component (H)] In this application, the terms "(H)", "component (H)" and "at least one additional component" are used synonymously and therefore preferably have the same meaning. The term "at least one additional component" refers to exactly one additional component and also to a mixture of two or more different additional components. Preferably, a mixture of two, three or more different additional components is used as component (H).

[0071] Composition (CR) may optionally contain additional ingredients that enhance, complement, or add to the benefits provided by components (C) and (D). Such additional optional ingredients are hereinafter referred to as supporting ingredients and cosmetically acceptable additives.

[0072] According to an embodiment, the composition (CR) of the present disclosure may further comprise a supporting component. Examples of such supporting components include, among others, vasodilators, blood circulation promoters, antioxidants, vitamins, and provitamins. Component (H) may be present in an amount of 0 to 5 weight percent based on the weight of the composition (CR). When present, the amount of the supporting component or combinations thereof ranges from 0.0010 to 5.0 weight percent, particularly 0.010 to 3.0 weight percent, and most preferably 0.1 to 3 weight percent based on the weight of the composition (CR).

[0073] Supporting ingredients may include, for example, one or more of tocopherol, tocotrienol, tocopherol ester, nicotinic acid, nicotinamide, nicotinic acid ester, vasodilator plant extract, camphor, royal jelly, biotin, vitamin B3, vitamin B12, vitamin C, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, vitamin E, vitamin K1, vitamin K2, panthenol (provitamin B5), omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 fatty acids, folic acid, cannabidiol, amino acids, or combinations thereof.

[0074] According to an embodiment, the support component comprises a vasodilator selected from tocopherol (α-, β-, γ-, or δ-tocopherol), particularly α-tocopherol, a tocopherol ester (e.g., tocopherol acetate, tocopheryl succinate, tocopheryl nicotinate, poly(oxyethylene) tocopheryl succinate, etc.), nicotinic acid, nicotinamide, nicotinic acid esters, camphor; an antioxidant such as vitamin C or a polyphenol; a testosterone-5-α-reductase inhibitor such as the omega-6 fatty acid arachidonic acid; a substance beneficial to hair health such as nicotinamide (niacinamide); or a combination thereof. According to an embodiment, the support component comprises tocopherol or tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate), and / or niacinamide. Suitable vasodilatory plant extracts include burnt or distilled nettle extract (Urtica dioica), roasted chestnut extract (Aesculus hippocastanum), arnica extract (Arnica montana), or hemp extract.

[0075] The composition (CR) may optionally contain cosmetically acceptable additives that can contribute to achieving or improving the desired properties or effects. According to an embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable additives may be selected from perfumes / fragrances, opacifiers, preservatives, pH adjusters, chelating agents, hair care or skin care materials, physiologically compatible silicone derivative compounds, light protection agents, anti-stripping agents, hair gloss imparting agents, combing agents, degreasing agents, moisturizing agents, conditioning agents, viscosity adjusters, and cooling agents. The cosmetically acceptable additives may be used in any combination as desired or required.

[0076] Suitable cosmetically acceptable additives not specifically listed below are listed in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (8th Edition, Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association). In particular, Volume 2, Sections 3 (Chemical Classification) and 4 (Function) are helpful in identifying specific additives to achieve a particular purpose or purposes. Several of these additives are discussed below, although the disclosure is, of course, not exhaustive.

[0077] Suitable ranges of amounts for fragrances, opacifiers, preservatives, pH adjusters, chelating agents, hair care or skin care materials, physiologically compatible silicone derivative compounds, light protectants, anti-stripping agents, hair glossing agents, combing aids, degreasing agents, moisturizing agents, conditioning agents, viscosity modifiers, and cooling agents are provided for the additives discussed below. These cosmetically acceptable additives may be present in a total amount of up to 20.0 weight percent, particularly up to 15.0 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (CR). Typically, the total amount of these cosmetically acceptable additives may be in the range of 0.010 to 10.0 weight percent, conveniently in the range of 0.010 to 7.0 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (CR). For example, the total amount of these cosmetically acceptable additives may be in the range of 0.010 to 5.0 weight percent, conveniently in the range of 0.010 to 3.0 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (CR).

[0078] The composition (CR) used according to the present disclosure may contain a fragrance / scent. For example, the composition (CR) may contain 0.0010 to 1.50 weight percent, particularly 0.010 to 0.50 weight percent, of the fragrance / scent, based on the weight of the composition (CR). The fragrance / scent can improve the user experience by imparting a pleasant scent to the composition (CR) and / or eliciting emotions such as relaxation or excitement.

[0079] Alternatively, the composition (CR) used in accordance with the present disclosure may be substantially free of flavors and / or fragrances. Some consumers prefer a flavor-free composition. The flavor / fragrance may be an animal-based fragrance or a botanical fragrance. The animal-based fragrance may be selected from the group consisting of musk oil, civet, bead, ambergris, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] The botanical fragrance may be selected from the group consisting of nutmeg extract, cardamom extract, ginger extract, cinnamon extract, patchouli oil, geranium oil, orange oil, mandarin oil, orange flower extract, cedarwood, vetiver, lavandin, ylang extract, tuberose extract, sandalwood oil, bergamot oil, rosemary oil, spearmint oil, peppermint oil, lemon oil, lavender oil, citronella oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, sage oil, orange blossom oil, labdanum oil, eucalyptus oil, verbena oil, mimosa extract, narcissus extract, carrot seed extract, jasmine extract, olibanum extract, rose extract, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] Fragrance: Acetophenone, Adoxal, Aldehyde C-12, Aldehyde C-14, Aldehyde C-18, Allyl Caprylate, Ambroxan, Amyl Acetate, Dimethyl Indane Derivatives, Alpha-Amyl Cinnamaldehyde, Anethole, Anisaldehyde, Benzaldehyde, Benzyl Acetate, Benzyl Alcohol and Ester Derivatives, Benzyl Propionate, Benzyl Salicylate, Borneol, Butyl Acetate, Camphor, Carbitol, Cinnamaldehyde, Cinnamyl Acetate, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Cinnamyl Sodium Chloride ... Cis-3-hexanol and ester derivatives, cis-3-hexenylmethyl carbonate, citral, citronellol and ester derivatives, cuminaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, cyclogalbanate, damascone, decalactone, decanol, estragole, dihydromyrcenol, dimethylbenzyl carbinol, 6,8-dimethyl-2-nonanol, dimethylbenzyl carbinyl butyrate, ethyl acetate, ethyl isobutyrate, ethyl butyrate, ethyl propionate, ethyl caprylate, ethyl cinnamate, ethyl hexanoate, valeric acid Ethyl, ethyl vanillin, eugenol, exaltolide, fenchone, fruity esters such as ethyl 2-methylbutyrate, galaxolide, geraniol and ester derivatives, helional, 2-heptonone, hexenol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, indole, isoamyl acetate, isoeugenol acetate, ionone, isoeugenol, isoamyl isovalerate, Iso E Super, limonene, linalool, lilial, linalyl acetate, lyral, majantol, mayol, melonal, mentho , p-methylacetophenone, methyl anthranilate, methyl cedrylone, methyl dihydrojasmonate, methyl eugenol, methyl ionone, methyl-α-naphthyl ketone, methyl phenylcarbinyl acetate, mugetanol, γ-nonalactone, octanal, phenylethyl acetate, phenyl-acetaldehyde dimethyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylethyl alcohol, pinene, sandalol, santalol, stemone, thymol, terpene, tripluran, triethyl citrate, 3,3,The composition may contain one or more perfumes selected from the group consisting of 5-trimethylcyclohexanol, γ-undecalactone, undecenal, vanillin, veloutone, verdox, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] The composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may contain an opacifying agent, sometimes referred to as a "cloudiness-inducing agent." For example, the composition (CR) may contain 0.10 to 5.0 weight percent, particularly 0.50 to 2.0 weight percent, of the opacifying agent based on the weight of the composition (CR). Suitable opacifying agents include mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide, alumina, and calcium carbonate. Other suitable opacifying agents include fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters such as cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, ethylene glycol distearate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, and stearyl stearate.

[0083] The composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may contain a preservative or a mixture of preservatives. The composition (CR) may contain the preservative in an amount of up to 1.0 weight percent, for example, 0.0010 to 1.0 weight percent, particularly 0.010 to 0.50 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (CR). Cosmetically acceptable preservatives include organic acids such as parahydroxybenzoic acid; organic acid salts such as sodium benzoate; compounds such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and 1,3-bis(hydroxymethyl)-5,5-dimethylimidazolidine-2,4-dione; capryl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] The composition (CR) of the present disclosure may contain a pH adjuster and / or buffer in an amount sufficient to effectively adjust the pH of the composition. For example, the composition may contain up to 1.0 weight percent, e.g., 0.000010 to 1.0 weight percent, particularly 0.0010 to 0.50 weight percent, of the pH adjuster, based on the weight of the composition (CR). pH adjusters and / or buffers suitable for use herein include, but are not limited to, guanidinium salts, alkali metal and ammonium hydroxides and carbonates, e.g., sodium hydroxide, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, and ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium chloride, and acids, e.g., organic and inorganic acids, e.g., ascorbic acid, citric acid, acetic acid, or tartaric acid, phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The compositions (CR) of the present disclosure may further comprise one or more chelating agents (also known as "chelating agents," "sequestering agents," "sequestering agents," or "chelants") in an amount sufficient to reduce the amount of metal available for interaction with formulation components. Chelating agents are well known in the art, and non-exhaustive lists can be found in A.E. Martell & R.M. Smith, Critical Stability Constants, Vol. 1, Plenum Press, New York & London (1974) and A.E. Martell & R.D. Hancock, Metal Complexes in Aqueous Solution, Plenum Press, New York & London (1996). Typically, the compositions may comprise one or more chelating agents in a total amount of 0.0010 to 1.0 weight percent, particularly 0.010 to 0.50 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (CR).

[0086] The one or more chelating agents may be selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acids (such as aminocarboxylic acids), phosphonic acids (such as aminophosphonic acids), polyphosphoric acids (such as linear polyphosphoric acids), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. "Salts thereof," in the context of a chelating agent, means all salts containing the same functional structure as the referenced chelating agent, including alkali metal salts, alkaline earth salts, ammonium salts, substituted ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; or sodium salts, potassium salts, calcium salts, magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; or monoethanolammonium salts, diethanolammonium salts, triethanolammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] The one or more chelating agents may be one or more aminocarboxylic acid chelating agents containing one or more carboxylic acid moieties (-COOH) and one or more nitrogen atoms. Suitable chelating agents include diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic ... The hydroxybenzoate may be selected from the group consisting of diethylaminoethyl ether (EDTA), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenedicysteic acid (EDC), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), diaminoalkyldi(sulfosuccinic acid) (DDS), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), etidronic acid, diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid), and / or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Conveniently, the chelating agent used in the composition (CR) according to the present disclosure, when present, may be EDTA, etidronic acid, diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), and / or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] The compositions (CR) of the present disclosure may contain a viscosity modifier, also known in the art as a "thickener." When present, such viscosity modifiers are typically used in the compositions (CR) in amounts of 0.010 to 3.0 weight percent, particularly 0.50 to 1.0 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (CR). Suitable cosmetically acceptable viscosity modifiers include nonionic polymers, such as polysaccharides such as cellulose, cellulose gum, or xanthan gum, and nonionic viscosity modifiers based on polyether-1, such as the commercially available viscosity modifier Pure Thix 1442.

[0090] The composition (CR) according to the present disclosure may further comprise a care ingredient, such as a plant or vegetable extract, that provides a hair care benefit or a skin care benefit. Typical amounts of the care ingredient in the composition according to the present disclosure range from 0.010 to 5.0 weight percent, particularly 0.050 to 2.0 weight percent, based on the weight of the composition (CR).

[0091] Compositions for permanently reshaping keratin fibers (CR) The composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratin fibers comprises as ingredients: (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent; (B) at least one alkalizing agent; (C) malic acid and / or malate salts, (D) at least one betaine, and (E) optionally at least one disulfide-based compound Includes:

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises as components: (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent comprising ammonium thioglycolate and / or cysteine; (B) at least one alkalizing agent comprising ammonia and / or monoethanolamine; (C) malic acid and / or malate salts, (D) at least one betaine containing trimethylglycine, and (E) at least one disulfide compound, optionally including diammonium dithiodiglycolate Includes:

[0093] In another preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises as components: (A) at least 80% by weight, based on the total weight of component (A) contained in composition (CR), of at least one thiol-based reducing agent comprising at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonium thioglycolate and cysteine; (B) at least 80 wt. % of at least one alkalizing agent, based on the total weight of component (B) contained in composition (CR), comprising at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia and monoethanolamine; (C) malic acid and / or malate salts, (D) 80% by weight of at least one betaine comprising trimethylglycine, based on the total weight of component (D) contained in composition (CR); and (E) optionally, at least one disulfide compound comprising at least 80% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate, based on the total weight of component (D) contained in composition (CR); Includes:

[0094] In a more preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises as components: (A) at least 90% by weight, based on the total weight of component (A) contained in composition (CR), of at least one thiol-based reducing agent comprising at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonium thioglycolate and cysteine; (B) at least 90 wt. % of at least one alkalizing agent, based on the total weight of component (B) contained in composition (CR), comprising at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia and monoethanolamine; (C) malic acid and / or malate salts, (D) 90% by weight of at least one betaine containing trimethylglycine, based on the total weight of component (D) contained in composition (CR); and (E) optionally, at least one disulfide compound comprising at least 90% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate, based on the total weight of component (D) contained in composition (CR); Includes:

[0095] In another more preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises as components: (A) at least 95% by weight, based on the total weight of component (A) contained in composition (CR), of at least one thiol-based reducing agent comprising at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonium thioglycolate and cysteine; (B) at least 95 wt. % of at least one alkalizing agent, based on the total weight of component (B) contained in composition (CR), comprising at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia and monoethanolamine; (C) malic acid and / or malate salts, (D) 95% by weight of at least one betaine comprising trimethylglycine, based on the total weight of component (D) contained in composition (CR); and (E) optionally, at least one disulfide compound comprising at least 95% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate, based on the total weight of component (D) contained in composition (CR); Includes:

[0096] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition (CR) comprises as components: (A) ammonium thioglycolate and / or cysteine, (B) ammonia and / or monoethanolamine, (C) malic acid and / or malate salts, (D) trimethylglycine, and (E) optionally diammonium dithiodiglycolate Includes:

[0097] In one embodiment, composition (CR) comprises: Component (A) in an amount of 1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 14% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 3 to 13% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 5 to 13.5% by weight, Component (B) in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.15 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 3% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 2% by weight, Component (C) in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 8% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 0.3 to 3% by weight, Component (D) in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 8% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 0.3 to 3% by weight, Component (F) in an amount of 30 to 98.7% by weight, preferably in an amount of 45 to 96.949% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 54 to 94.29% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 65.5 to 91.55% by weight, Component (G) in an amount of 0 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 1 to 12% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 2 to 11% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 2.5 to 10% by weight, Component (H) in an amount of 0 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight, most preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 3% by weight wherein the weight percent values ​​are based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

[0098] In another embodiment, composition (CR) comprises: Component (A) in an amount of 1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 14% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 3 to 13% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 5 to 13.5% by weight, Component (B) in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.15 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 3% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 2% by weight, Component (C) in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 8% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 0.3 to 3% by weight, Component (D) in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.25 to 8% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 0.3 to 3% by weight, Component (E) in an amount of 0 to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 6% by weight, most preferably in an amount of 1 to 4% by weight, Component (F) in an amount of 20 to 98.7% by weight, preferably in an amount of 37 to 96.849% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 48 to 93.79% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 61.5 to 90.55% by weight, Component (G) in an amount of 0 to 15% by weight, preferably in an amount of 1 to 12% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 2 to 11% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 2.5 to 10% by weight, Component (H) in an amount of 0 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight, most preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 3% by weight wherein the weight percent values ​​are based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

[0099] The composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) can be used to permanently wave keratinous fibers or to permanently straighten keratinous fibers.

[0100] Therefore, another aspect of the present invention is the use of the composition (CR) for permanently waving keratinous fibers.

[0101] Another aspect of the present invention is the use of the composition (CR) for permanently straightening keratinous fibers.

[0102] The pH value of the composition (CR) is preferably in the range of 7.5 to 10.0, more preferably in the range of 7.8 to 9.8, and even more preferably in the range of 7.9 to 9.6.

[0103] Another aspect of the present invention is a kit for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising a composition (CR) as described herein and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

[0104] With regard to the compositions (CR) contained in the kit, the above descriptions and preferred embodiments apply accordingly.

[0105] The neutralizing composition (CN) contains at least one oxidizing agent, which is capable of re-crosslinking cleaved cysteine ​​bonds removed by application of the composition (CR), i.e., the thiol-based reducing agent (component (A)) contained therein.

[0106] Suitable neutralizing compositions and oxidizing agents are known to those skilled in the art. Typically, the neutralizing composition (CN) comprises hydrogen peroxide and / or a bromate compound as the oxidizing agent.

[0107] Suitable bromate compounds are selected from, for example, ammonium bromate and / or alkali bromates, such as sodium bromate.

[0108] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising the steps of: i) applying to keratinous fibers a composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) as described herein, ii) reshaping the keratin fibers, and iii) applying a neutralizing composition (CN) containing at least one oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers; The method includes:

[0109] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for permanently waving keratinous fibers, preferably human hair, comprising the steps of: w1) washing keratin fibers, preferably human hair, w2) winding keratin fibers, preferably human hair, in a wet state around rollers; w3) applying the composition (CR) described herein to keratin fibers, preferably human hair, with a roller for a period ranging from 5 to 25 minutes; w4) rinsing the composition (CR) from the wrapped keratin fibers, preferably from wrapped human hair; w5) optionally pad-drying the wrapped keratin fibers, preferably wrapped human hair, w6) applying the neutralizer composition (CN) described herein to keratinous fibers wound on rollers, preferably human hair wound on rollers; w7) removing keratin fibers, preferably human hair, from the rollers; w8) optionally applying another portion of the neutralizer composition (CN) to keratin fibers, preferably human hair, w9) rinsing the keratin fibers, preferably human hair; w10) optionally applying a conditioner to the keratin fibers, preferably human hair, and w11) optionally blow-drying the keratin fibers, preferably human hair The method includes:

[0110] Step w3) can be carried out with or without heating. Preferably, step w3) is carried out in a climatic zone with heating, and a temperature in the range of 25°C to 45°C is applied to the keratin fibers, preferably human hair. Heated rollers (curlers) heated to a temperature in the range of 70 to 180°C, more preferably 70 to 170°C, and even more preferably 75 to 140°C, can also be used.

[0111] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for permanently straightening keratinous fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: s1) applying the composition (CR) described herein to keratin fibers, preferably human hair, with a roller for a time ranging from 3 to 30 minutes; s2) rinsing the composition (CR) from the keratin fibers, preferably human hair, s3) blow-drying the keratin fibers, preferably human hair; s4) keratin fibers, preferably human hair, i) using a flat iron on keratin fibers, preferably human hair, or ii) Combing keratin fibers, preferably human hair a process of straightening the fibers by s5) applying the neutralizer composition (CN) described herein to keratin fibers, preferably human hair; s6) rinsing the keratin fibers, preferably human hair; s7) optionally applying a conditioner to the keratin fibers, preferably human hair, and s8) optionally blow-drying the keratin fibers, preferably human hair. The method includes:

[0112] [Implementation] 1. As an ingredient, (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent; (B) at least one alkalizing agent; (C) malic acid and / or malate salts, (D) at least one betaine, and (E) optionally at least one disulfide-based compound A composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR), comprising: 2. The composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) according to embodiment 1, wherein component (A) is at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, glycerol monothiolactate, ammonium thiolactate, MEA thiolactate, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate, ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteines, cysteine ​​alkyl esters, homocysteine, thioglycolic acid, ethanolamine thioglycolate, glyceryl thioglycolate, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, and mixtures thereof. 3. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein component (A) is at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, cysteine, and mixtures thereof. 4. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 3, wherein component (B) is at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of 2-amino-1-propanol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-dimethylamino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 3-amino-1-propanol, ammonia, and monoethanolamine. 5. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4, further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent as component (F). 6. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 5, wherein the at least one betaine of component (D) is selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines and alkylsulfobetaines. 7. Component (D) is a compound of formula (I) TIFF2026503356000002.tif9170 (in the above formula, R f , R g and R h and (C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, and C1-C6 carboxyalkyl) are the same or different and are at least one betaine. 8. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 7, wherein component (D) is trimethylglycine. 9. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 8, wherein the pH value of the composition (CR) is in the range of 7.5 to 10.0. 10. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 9, comprising 0.1 to 15% by weight of component (C), based on the total weight of the composition (CR). 11. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 10, comprising 0.1 to 15% by weight of component (D), based on the total weight of the composition (CR). 12. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 11, comprising 1 to 15% by weight of component (A), based on the total weight of the composition (CR). 13. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of embodiments 1 to 12, comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of component (B), based on the total weight of the composition (CR). 14. A kit for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising a composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) according to any of embodiments 1 to 13, and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent. 15. A method for permanently reshaping keratin fibers, comprising: i) applying to keratinous fibers a composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) according to any of embodiments 1 to 13, ii) reshaping the keratin fibers, and iii) applying a neutralizing composition (CN) containing at least one oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers; A method comprising: [Example]

[0113] The following examples illustrate compositions (CR) and their performance results. These examples are not intended to be exhaustive of all aspects of the subject matter disclosed herein, but rather to illustrate representative compositions (CR) and results. These examples are not intended to exclude equivalents and variations of the claimed invention that would be apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art.

[0114] To evaluate the protective effect of malic acid and betaine in the compositions of the present invention (CR) for permanently reshaping keratin fibers, formulations differing only in their malic acid and betaine content were applied to hair tresses. Natural bleached Caucasian hair was used (supplied by Kerling).

[0115] The compositions are shown in Table 1 below. Composition CR1 is a composition according to the present invention. Compositions C2 to C4 are comparative examples. Composition C2 contains only malic acid. Composition C3 contains only betaine. Composition C4 contains neither malic acid nor betaine. TIFF2026503356000003.tif134170

[0116] The degree of hair deterioration was assessed by taking photographs immediately after application (initial) and 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 minutes later. The photographs were compared with each other (Figure 1).

[0117] Figure 1 shows the results for the water reference in column 1. Columns 2 through 4 of the table in Figure 1 show the results for composition CR1 and compositions C2, C3, and C4.

[0118] According to Figure 1, the performance of the tested compositions can be ranked from best to worst in the following order: 1. Composition CR1 according to the invention shows the best results: the image of the lock looks similar to that of the lock to which only water has been applied, so there is little damage. 2. Composition C2 (malic acid only) shows slight damage, but composition C2 is inferior to composition CR1 of the present invention. 3. Composition C4 (no malic acid / no betaine) shows damage, but composition C4 is inferior to composition C2. 4. Composition C3 (betaine only) shows severe damage and is significantly inferior to composition C4.

[0119] Composition C3 (betaine only) is inferior to composition C4 (no malic acid / no betaine), while composition CR1 (malic acid and betaine) according to the present invention is superior to composition C2 (malic acid only), demonstrating a synergistic effect of malic acid and betaine, rather than a simple additive effect. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0120] [Figure 1] Column 1 of the table shows the results for the water reference, while columns 2 to 4 of the table show the results for composition CR1 and compositions C2, C3, and C4.

Claims

1. As ingredients, (A) at least one thiol-based reducing agent; (B) at least one alkalizing agent; (C) malic acid and / or malate salts, (D) at least one betaine, and (E) Optionally, at least one disulfide compound A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising:

2. 2. The composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) according to claim 1, wherein component (A) is at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, glycerol monothiolactate, ammonium thiolactate, MEA thiolactate, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate, ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine, cysteine ​​alkyl esters, homocysteine, thioglycolic acid, ethanolamine thioglycolate, glyceryl thioglycolate, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

3. 3. The composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (A) is at least one thiol-based reducing agent selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, cysteine, and mixtures thereof.

4. 4. The composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) according to claim 1, wherein component (B) is at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of 2-amino-1-propanol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-dimethylamino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 3-amino-1-propanol, ammonia, and monoethanolamine.

5. 5. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to claim 1, further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent as component (F).

6. 6. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to claim 1, wherein the at least one betaine of component (D) is selected from the group consisting of alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines and alkyl sulfobetaines.

7. Component (D) is a compound of formula (I) (In the above formula, R ｆ , R ｇ and R ｈ and (c) each independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, and a C1-C6 carboxyalkyl group.

8. 8. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to claim 1, wherein component (D) is trimethylglycine.

9. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the pH value of the composition (CR) ranges from 7.5 to 10.

0.

10. 10. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising 0.1 to 15 wt. % of component (C), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

11. 11. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising 0.1 to 15% by weight of component (D), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

12. 12. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising 1 to 15% by weight of component (A), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

13. 13. A composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising 0.1 to 5 wt. % of component (B), based on the total weight of the composition (CR).

14. A kit for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising a composition (CR) for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and a neutralizing composition (CN) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

15. 1. A method for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers, comprising: i) applying to the keratinous fibers a composition for permanently reshaping keratinous fibers (CR) according to any one of claims 1 to 13, ii) reshaping the keratin fibers, and iii) applying a neutralizing composition (CN) containing at least one oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers; A method comprising:

Images