A composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one polyol, and at least one non-silicone oil, and being free of silicone compounds.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, and which comprises at least (a) a saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol, (b) an anionic surfactant containing at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, (c) a polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount equal to or greater than 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition being free of silicone compounds. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method in which the composition is applied to keratinous materials, as well as to the use of the composition in the cosmetics field, in particular for caring for, protecting and making up the skin or for caring for hair.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, (a) at least one saturated C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, aliphatic alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant containing at least one C16-C22, preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon chain; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which comprises at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount of at least 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and is free of silicone compounds, and its use in the cosmetics and dermatology fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratinous materials. [Background technology]

[0002] The particular type of galenical form that is the subject of the present invention, namely oil-in-water emulsions that in particular require the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, are capable of delivering active agents when applied to keratinous materials while at the same time imparting advantageous sensory properties that are perceived by the user.

[0003] Oil-in-water emulsion compositions which in particular require the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain are described in particular in WO 2018 / 108878 and WO 2020 / 002538.

[0004] However, these compositions address very specific objectives, in particular, respectively, concealing skin imperfections, moisturizing the skin and / or treating the signs of skin ageing, in particular the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, which increase with age.

[0005] The term "keratinous materials" means in particular the skin, scalp, keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair, body hair, nails, and mucous membranes, such as lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, neck, area around the eyes, eyelids). [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0006] [Patent Document 1] International Publication No. 2018 / 108878 [Patent Document 2] International Publication No. 2020 / 002538 [Patent Document 3] International Publication No. 2008 / 155059 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0007] However, it is sometimes difficult to balance the requirements regarding sensory properties, texture and stability, and it is particularly desirable to have available compositions that are able to maintain the same viscosity over time, and in particular that do not increase or decrease in viscosity over time.

[0008] The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned technical problems.

[0009] In light of the above, it is therefore apparent that there remains a need for compositions which have advantageous sensory properties, in particular good glide and non-stickiness, with reduced or no soaping, and at the same time retain satisfactory stability, in particular stability assessed at 1 and / or 2 months of storage, and in particular macroscopic and microscopic stability under temperature conditions in the range of 4°C to 45°C, in particular at 4°C, room temperature (generally between 20°C and 25°C) and 45°C after 2 months of storage.

[0010] Finally, consumers today are very sensitive about the environmental impact of the products they use.

[0011] As a result, it remains very difficult to obtain cosmetic compositions that provide specific sensory properties in terms of a glidant and non-sticky feel upon application, while being minimally soaping and at the same time retaining good stability over time. [Means for solving the problem]

[0012] Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, (a) at least one saturated C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, aliphatic alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant containing at least one C16-C22, preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon chain; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount of 8% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; Including, Silicone compound-free The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition.

[0013] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone compound-free" refers to a composition according to the invention which comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, of silicone compounds relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is silicone compound-free (devoid of silicone compounds).

[0014] The term "silicone compound" (also called silicone) means any silicone compound likely to be used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field, i.e. an inorganic compound consisting of a mixture of at least silicon and oxygen, including in particular silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenylsilicones or aminosilicones.

[0015] As illustrated in the examples below, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that compositions can be obtained which have advantageous sensory properties, in particular good glide and non-stick properties, are low in soaping, and at the same time retain a satisfactory stability over time.

[0016] Compositions according to the present invention can advantageously deliver a variety of ingredients, such as cosmetic active agents, sunscreens, particles, polymers, dyes, pearlescent agents or pigments, and fragrances, depending on the various benefits desired.

[0017] The compositions according to the invention also have the advantage of providing anti-aging benefits.

[0018] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, (a) at least one saturated C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, aliphatic alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant containing at least one C16-C22, preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon chain; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount of 8% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; Including, Contains no silicone compounds The anionic surfactant containing at least one C16 to C22 hydrocarbon chain is represented by the general formula (I): RCOY(CH2) n SO3M (wherein R represents a saturated linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group, Y represents -O- or -NR1-, R1 represents a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group, M is selected from the group formed by hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium groups, and organic amines, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3), The present invention relates to compositions, particularly cosmetic compositions.

[0019] The present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, comprising applying to the keratinous materials a composition as defined previously.

[0020] The present invention also relates to the use of the compositions described previously in the cosmetics field, in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

[0021] Other features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0022] The compositions according to the invention are for cosmetic and / or dermatological use, preferably for cosmetic use.

[0023] The compositions according to the invention are generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with the skin.

[0024] The term "cosmetic" refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and integuments. The compositions according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0025] A cosmetically acceptable medium is preferred, i.e., one that has a pleasant color, odor, and feel and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e., stinging, tightness, or redness, that would cause the user to avoid applying the composition.

[0026] In the following text, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within that range.

[0027] Saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohols The term "saturated aliphatic alcohol" refers to any alcohol containing a linear, saturated (containing no covalent double or triple bonds) hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a linear alkyl group, containing between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, and a hydroxyl functionality.

[0028] The term "hydrocarbon chain" means an organic group consisting mostly of hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0029] The saturated fatty alcohols present in the composition according to the invention contain between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.

[0030] The saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohols used in the compositions according to the invention are solid at room temperature and advantageously have chain-terminal --OH groups.

[0031] The saturated fatty alcohols used in the context of the present invention are in particular cetyl alcohol, i.e. hexadecanol (C ), which are solid at room temperature and advantageously have a chain-terminal —OH group. 16 ), stearyl alcohol, i.e., octadecanol (C 18 ), or behenyl alcohol (C 22 ) may be selected from

[0032] Particularly preferably, one or more alcohols are used selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0033] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 16 Fatty alcohols and C 18 It contains a mixture of fatty alcohols, in particular the composition contains cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0034] More preferably, C 16 Fatty alcohols and C 18 The mixture of fatty alcohols is in the range of 20 / 80 to 80 / 20 C 16 / C 18 Mass ratio, advantageously equal to 50 / 50 C 16 / C 18 Used in mass ratios.

[0035] The amount of fatty alcohol in the composition according to the invention is between 2.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 8% by weight and even more preferentially between 2.7% and 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] Anionic surfactants containing at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain Anionic surfactants useful in the context of the present invention comprise at least one saturated (not containing any covalent double or triple bonds) or unsaturated (which may contain one or more covalent double and / or triple bonds), preferably saturated, linear hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a linear alkyl group, which chain comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, anionic surfactants useful in the context of the present invention comprise only one saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the anionic surfactants useful in the context of the present invention contain only one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0038] The term "hydrocarbon chain" means an organic group consisting mostly of hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16 to C22 hydrocarbon chain is selected from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate functional group, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant containing at least one sulfonate functional group is selected from (C16-C22) alkylsulfonates, (C16-C22) alkylamidosulfonates, (C16-C22) alkylarylsulfonates, (C16-C22) alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyl(C16-C22)-N-(C1-C6) alkyltaurates, (C16-C22) acylisethionates, (C16-C22) alkylsulfolaurates, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] Preferentially, the anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfonate functional group is acyl isethionates, in which the linear or branched acyl radical contains from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms; - N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, in which the linear or branched acyl group contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, the linear or branched alkyl group contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms or the cyclic group contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably the alkyl group is methyl, - and mixtures thereof is selected from In particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0042] Examples of N-acyl-N-alkyl taurates include sodium palmitoyl methyl taurate sold by Nikkol under the name Nikkol PMT (registered trademark), and sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate sold by Nikko under the name Nikkol SMT.

[0043] The acyl glutamate may be selected from acyl glutamates in which the acyl group contains from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0044] Examples of acyl glutamates that may be mentioned in particular include palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, in particular the alkali metal salts, such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K salts, alkaline earth metal salts, such as Mg salts, or ammonium salts of said acids.

[0045] For example, compounds having the INCI names sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium olivary fatty acid glutamate, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0046] Mention may also be made as acyl glutamates sodium stearoyl glutamate, for example the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by Ajinomoto Co., Inc., and disodium hydrogenated stearoyl glutamate, for example the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16 to C22 hydrocarbon-based chain has the general formula (I): RCOY(CH2) nSO3M (wherein R represents a saturated linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group, Y represents -O- or -NR1-, R1 represents a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group, M is selected from the group formed by hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium groups, and organic amines, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3).

[0048] Preferably, the anionic surfactant of general formula (I) is N-stearoyl-N-methyl taurate, where M corresponds to Na.

[0049] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more anionic surfactants comprising at least one C16 to C22 hydrocarbon-based chain as defined previously.

[0050] In the compositions according to the invention, the fatty alcohol (a) / anionic surfactant (b) weight ratio may be between 10:1 and 6:4, preferably between 19:2 and 7:3, and even more preferentially between 9:1 and 4:1.

[0051] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it appears that fatty alcohols and anionic surfactants containing at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain form an alpha crystalline phase, also called alpha gel, together with a hydrophilic phase, which can be characterized, inter alia, by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction at temperatures below the melting point of the alpha gel phase.

[0052] Thus, the composition according to the invention is capable of forming a crystalline lamellar phase.

[0053] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention contains at least one swollen alpha crystalline phase with a swelling periodicity of more than 10 nm, preferably more than 12 nm, and even more preferentially 15 nm or more, this periodicity being defined as the sum of the thickness of the bilayer formed by the fatty alcohol (a) and the anionic surfactant (b) and the thickness of the water layer between the two leaflets, this unit being repeated several times.

[0054] According to a particular embodiment, in the composition according to the invention, the difference between the number of carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon-based chain of the anionic surfactant (b) and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty alcohol (a) must not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms, and preferentially not more than 4.

[0055] polyol The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol in a content strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] A polyol is defined as an organic molecule containing at least two hydroxyl (OH) functional groups.

[0057] For purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chains containing at least two hydroxyl functions, or - saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon chains in which one or more carbon atoms have been replaced by oxygen atoms and which contain at least two hydroxyl functions, for example polyethylene glycols (PEG) containing 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units; means.

[0058] Preferably, the polyol has a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0059] Advantageously, the polyol contains a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and from 2 to 12, and even better from 2 to 8, hydroxyl functional groups.

[0060] The polyol may be selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol and panthenol.

[0061] Among these polyols, preference is given to glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof.

[0062] According to one embodiment, the polyol contains 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and is chosen in particular from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially glycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0064] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol may be present in the composition in an amount between 15.1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 18% and 45% by weight, even more preferentially between 19% and 40% by weight, and better still between 20% and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Non-silicone oil The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil in a content of at least 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] The term "oil" means a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0067] The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0068] The hydrocarbon-based oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0069] For purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil that contains primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0070] The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil that does not contain any silicon atoms, and in particular does not contain Si-O groups.

[0071] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

[0072] Hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned in particular include: - Branched alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, especially C8-C 16 Alkanes, e.g., C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under the trade names, for example, Isopar or Permethyl, branched C-C 16esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof; linear alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 26 carbon atoms and more particularly 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (C 2 ), sold by the company Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively; 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), and also mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane mixtures, n-undecane (C ), as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the patent application WO 2008 / 155059 by Cognis. 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ), as well as mixtures thereof; or mixtures of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms (called C15-C19 alkanes), such as the products sold under the reference names Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 by the company SEPPIC, - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids with glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths, from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and which may optionally be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, marshmallow oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, passionflower oil, Moschata rose oil, Limnanthes alba alba) seed oil (INCI name: Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil); or caprylic / capric triglyceride, such as that sold by Stearinerie Dubois or under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel. Mention may also be made of cocoyl caprylate / caprate, such as that sold by Cognis under the name Cetiol LC or by Stearinerie Dubois under the name DUB 810 C. - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the products sold under the trade names Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the products sold under the trade name X-Tend by the company ISP; 226, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or (Z)-octadec-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13-enoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, for example, the commercial products sold under the name Dubois by Stearinerie Dubois. Products sold under the name Dis include octanoic, decanoic or ricinoleic acid esters of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, especially pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate; and C3-C citric acid esters, such as triethyl citrate, with the INCI name triethyl citrate. 22Esters of tricarboxylic acids with C1-C6 alcohols, such as the product sold under the name Citrofol AI Extra by Jungbunzlauer; tartrates, such as linear dialkyl tartrates containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear dialkyl tartrates containing between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetate esters, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, in particular dimer dilinoleic acid esters, whose free alcohol or acid functions, if applicable, are esterified with acid or alcohol groups; more particularly chosen from esters with the following INCI names: dimer dilinoleyl bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof; aliphatic amides, such as N-lauroylsarcosin isopropyl, for example the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. aliphatic alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms and having a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon-based chain that are liquid at room temperature, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol, - High class C 19 ~C 22 fatty acid, Carbonate esters, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-silicone oils are branched or linear alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms and synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a branched chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is 10 or more, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, fatty amides, fatty alcohols having a branched, optionally unsaturated carbon-based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms and which are liquid at room temperature, higher C 19 ~C 22 It is selected from fatty acids, carbonate esters, and mixtures thereof; in particular from oleyl erucate, branched or linear alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; and more particularly from oleyl erucate, mixtures of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 8% to 40% by weight, preferably from 9% to 25% by weight and even more preferentially from 10% to 15% by weight of non-silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] wax The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax, in particular a wax of vegetable origin having a melting point above 25°C.

[0076] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C) and that undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change.

[0077] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature at the tip of the endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry, or DSC) as described in ISO Standard 11357-3; 1999.

[0078] The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instruments.

[0079] The measurement protocol is as follows: a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the difference between the amount of power absorbed by the empty crucible and the amount of power absorbed by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the apex of the peak of the curve showing the variation of the difference in the amount of power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0080] Among the waxes of vegetable origin having a melting point above 25° C. that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: - Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, in particular under the commercial reference name Candelilla Wax SP 75 G from the company Strahl & Pitsch; lanolin and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolin, oxypropylated lanolin or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof; - Rice bran wax, - Auricly Wax, - Esparto grass wax, - Cork fiber wax, - sugarcane wax, - Japan Wax, - sumac wax, - Montan wax, orange wax, in particular the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen; - Laurel Wax, - sunflower wax, - Lemon wax, - Olive wax, - Berry wax, beeswax, in particular the product sold under the name White Beeswax SP 453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or under the name Cerabeil Lor by the company Baerlocher; buckwheat wax, in particular the products sold by the company Codif; -C 12 ~C 18 Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty alcohols, in particular those sold by the company Sophim in the Phytowax range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57); - partially hydrogenated wax esters of jojoba oil, - hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil, in particular the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-500 by the company Desert Whale; - fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, in particular mixtures of polyglyceryl with three waxes: jojoba esters, Helianthus annuus seed wax and Acacia decurrens extract, in particular the products sold under the names Hydracire S or Acticire® by Gattefossé; hydrogenated glycerol esters, in particular the product sold under the name Cegesoft HF 52 by Cognis (BASF) or the product sold under the name Softisan 100 Cremer by Oleo, which is a mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and palm oil; partially hydrogenated olive oil, in particular the compound sold under the name Beurrolive by the company Soliance; - hydrogenated sunflower oil, - hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, in particular Thixinr from the company Rheox; - hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, - hydrogenated palm oil, - hydrogenated coconut oil, - hydrogenated cocoglycosides, - a wax obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol; - behenyl alcohol, - and / or mixtures thereof.

[0081] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of vegetable origin with a melting point above 25°C chosen from carnauba wax, partially hydrogenated wax esters of jojoba oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil), fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, hydrogenated cocoglycerides, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0083] According to a particular embodiment, the wax of vegetable origin according to the invention and having a melting point above 25°C is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, of hydrogenated jojoba oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] oily phase The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase, the proportion of which in the emulsion may be, for example, in the range of 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially 2% to 20% by weight, and even better still 4% to 15% by weight.

[0086] The amounts given do not include the content of anionic surfactants as previously defined.

[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, the oily phase, with the exception of the fatty alcohols as previously defined, includes any fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally an oil, or any fatty substance that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as a wax, or any pasty compound, which is present in the composition.

[0088] aqueous phase The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0089] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water and a polyol as defined above. The amount of the aqueous phase may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight, and better still from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the amount of the aqueous phase may range from 50% to 92% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and better still from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, but is generally at least 25% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, and better still at least 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive.

[0091] Further water-soluble additives that may be mentioned include primary alcohols, i.e. alcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. Ethanol is preferred. The addition of such alcohols may be particularly suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a body or hair product.

[0092] The amount of water-soluble or water-dispersible additive in the composition of the present invention may be, for example, in the range of 0% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferentially 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pH of the composition is between 4 and 9, and more preferentially between 4.5 and 7.

[0094] Cosmetic active agents and adjuvants The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional cosmetically active agent.

[0095] In the context of the present invention, the term "additional active agent" means a compound that has biological activity in itself, ie, does not require the involvement of an external agent for its activation.

[0096] The additional active agent may in particular be selected from: vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (for example tocopheryl acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3, known anti-aging active agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, in particular sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds, in particular 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid; - sunscreen, - menthol, - and mixtures thereof.

[0097] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive chosen from adjuvants common in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, fragrances, film-forming polymers, thickening polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), preservatives, fillers, dyes, pearlescent agents, pigments and dispersants, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] The additional active agent used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 20% by weight, or from 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Of course, one skilled in the art will carefully select these optional additional compounds and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not adversely affected, or are not substantially adversely affected, by the envisaged addition.

[0100] Cosmetic Composition The compositions used according to the invention may be in any galenic form normally used in the cosmetics field.

[0101] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The composition comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.

[0102] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is not a solid.

[0103] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is not in stick form.

[0104] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is not solid and is not in the form of a stick.

[0105] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a non-solid galenic ranging from serum texture to creamy texture, which can be stored in a jar.

[0106] Advantageously, the viscosity of the compositions of the invention, measured at 25°C, is in the range between 100 cP (centipoise), i.e. 0.1 Pa.s (Pascal seconds) (internal measurement of the moving body 2, 21UD - fluid milk type) and 20040 cP, i.e. 20.04 Pa.s (internal measurement of the moving body 4, 85UD - heavy cream type).

[0107] The viscosity of the compositions of the present invention can be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art, in particular by the following conventional method. For example, measurements can be carried out using a Contraves TV or Rheomat RM180 equipped with a moving body rotating at 200 rpm at 25° C. Those skilled in the art can select the moving body used to measure the viscosity based on their general knowledge, for example from M1, M2 or M4 moving bodies, so that the measurement can be carried out.

[0108] In addition, the compositions according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a mousse.

[0109] More particularly, the compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application.

[0110] The compositions according to the invention may comprise any of the components normally used for the topical application and administration envisaged.

[0111] Preferably, such compositions are not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0112] The composition according to the invention may be intended to be applied to the skin.

[0113] Preferably, the skin is facial and / or body skin, in particular facial and / or neck and / or hand skin, preferably facial and / or neck skin.

[0114] As specified, the compositions according to the invention are advantageously in the form of oil-in-water emulsions.

[0115] The composition may alternatively be in the form of a face and / or body care or make-up product, packaged, for example, in the form of a cream in a jar or in the form of a fluid in a tube or pump or dropper bottle.

[0116] The composition according to the invention can be prepared by any known method commonly used in the cosmetic field.

[0117] The ingredients are mixed prior to formulation in an order and under conditions readily determined by one skilled in the art.

[0118] Use and Method According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of the compositions described previously in the cosmetics field, in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

[0119] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, comprising applying to the keratinous materials a composition as defined in the present invention.

[0120] The cosmetic uses and methods contemplated by the present invention are non-therapeutic.

[0121] The cosmetic use or method of the present invention is carried out by topically administering a composition according to the present invention.

[0122] Topical administration consists of applying the cosmetic composition externally to the skin by conventional techniques for the use of these compositions.

[0123] By way of example, the cosmetic use or method according to the invention can be carried out by topically applying, for example daily, at least one composition according to the invention, which can be formulated, for example, in the form of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a foam.

[0124] According to one embodiment, application is repeated, for example, once or twice daily for one or several days, generally for at least 4 weeks, and even longer, for 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more rest periods, if appropriate.

[0125] According to one embodiment, application is daily (once a day) and generally for a prolonged period of at least 4 weeks, even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more rest periods, if appropriate.

[0126] According to an embodiment variant, the composition according to the invention is applied to an area of ​​skin that has been previously cleansed using a washing solution.

[0127] Furthermore, a combination of treatments, optionally in topical form, may be envisaged to complement or reinforce the activity of the composition according to the invention.

[0128] Topical application is intended, and topical treatment with a composition according to the invention, optionally in combination with an accompanying composition impregnated on a substrate, such as a wipe, is contemplated.

[0129] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising: a) topically applying a cleansing solution to the skin; b) topically applying to the skin a composition according to the present invention; and c) optionally topically applying a composition different from the composition applied in step b). Including, Steps b) and c) can be carried out simultaneously or sequentially.

[0130] Such a composition applied in step c) can be termed an "auxiliary composition".

[0131] The cleaning solution may be in various forms, such as in particular a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O / W or W / O type), or others, preferably in the form of a solution or an aqueous gel.

[0132] Throughout the description, including the claims, the terms "between" and "within the range of" should be understood to include the ranges unless otherwise specified.

[0133] The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. [Example]

[0134] Materials and Methods Stability measurements The stability of the composition may be assessed according to the following protocol.

[0135] The properties of the compositions to be tested are evaluated immediately after preparation and after 24 hours.

[0136] The compositions to be tested are then stored for two months at various temperatures: room temperature, or "RT" (approximately 25° C.), 4° C. and 45° C. The temperature can be controlled using an oven, for example a Bio Concept machine from Firlabo.

[0137] The properties are evaluated after 1 and 2 months of storage under the above conditions.

[0138] The properties to be evaluated are: - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter; the viscosity of the composition, measured using a viscometer, for example a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer from Lamy Rheology, according to method CID-012-02; - the appearance of the composition, in particular the microscopic appearance assessed by observing the composition under an optical microscope, between a slide and a cover clip, at a magnification of 10 or even 100 times; - the color and odor of the composition, and Phenomena related to the destabilization of the composition, such as the appearance of creaming, coalescence, settling, flocculation, film formation on the surface, spotting, etc., are observed.

[0139] The closer the properties of a composition after 1 and / or 2 months of storage remain to those originally measured at 24 hours at 25°C, the more stable the composition can be considered to remain.

[0140] In particular, a composition can be considered stable if it remains smooth and homogeneous, shows no signs of destabilization, and shows no change in color or odor.

[0141] Example 1 A composition (I1) according to the invention was prepared, as well as a composition (C1) outside the invention, in particular with a non-silicone oil content of less than 8% by weight (in this case 5% by weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, contain the compounds detailed in Table 1 below, in contents expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] [Table 1]

[0144] Preparation protocol In a tank, the ingredients of Phase A are heated to 75°C until a homogeneous medium is obtained by paddle stirring without turbo mixing. Phase A is turbo mixed (3500 rpm) at 75°C for 10 minutes. To this heated mixture, the ingredients of Phase B, which have been heated to 75°C, are added with magnetic stirring and turbo mixed (3500 rpm) for 10 minutes. Glycerol is added to this mixture, and the resulting mixture is cooled to 40°C under vacuum with stirring (3500 rpm). Then, under vacuum with stirring, the ingredients of Phase D are added, followed by the ingredients of the other phases.

[0145] Finally, the temperature was reduced to 30° C. under vacuum with continuous stirring, slowing down the turbomixing if necessary, to carry out a final homogenization phase.

[0146] Example 2 result The stability and sensory effects of compositions I1 and C1 were evaluated, and the stability results are reported in Table 2 below.

[0147] [Table 2]

[0148] In conclusion, only composition I1 according to the invention is stable after 2 months, whether at 4° C., room temperature or 45° C. In particular, it complies in terms of appearance, color, odor, viscosity and pH.

[0149] Composition C1 outside the invention is non-compliant after 2 months in terms of viscosity.

[0150] For the sensory evaluation, a panel of nine experts participated in this study based on tactile and visual evaluation: the compositions were applied to the back of the hand.

[0151] Composition I1 according to the invention was found to provide good glide and is further described as being less sticky and leaving only a slight soapy residue.

[0152] Example 3 Preparation of Compositions Outside the Invention A composition (C2) outside the present invention was prepared. This composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, contains the compounds detailed in Table 3 below, in a content expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition has a polyol content of less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] [Table 3]

[0154] Preparation protocol In this example, the same protocol as used in Example 1 is used.

[0155] Example 4 result The stability of compositions I1 and C2 was evaluated, and the stability results are reported in Table 4 below.

[0156] [Table 4]

[0157] In conclusion, only composition I1 according to the invention is stable after 2 months, whether at 4° C., room temperature or 45° C. In particular, it complies in terms of appearance, color, odor, viscosity and pH.

[0158] Composition C2 outside the invention is non-compliant in terms of viscosity after 2 months.

[0159] Example 5 Preparation of the composition according to the invention Compositions (I2), (I3), (I4) and (I5) according to the invention were prepared, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, containing the compounds detailed in Table 5 below, in contents expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] [Table 5]

[0161] Preparation protocol In this example, the same protocol as used in Example 1 is used.

[0162] Compositions (I2) to (I5) have a good level of glide and are not very sticky, while at the same time leaving only a slight soapy residue.

Claims

1. In the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, (a) at least one saturated C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, aliphatic alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant containing at least one C16-C22, preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon chain; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount of 8% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; Including, Silicone compound-free A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition.

2. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant contains only one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain.

3. The saturated fatty alcohol is preferably cetyl alcohol, i.e., hexadecanol (C 16 ), stearyl alcohol, i.e., octadecanol (C 18 ), or behenyl alcohol (C 22 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the compound is selected from the group consisting of:

4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol.

5. C 16 Fatty alcohols and C 18 A mixture of fatty alcohols, preferably in the range of 20 / 80 to 80 / 20 C 16 / C 18 Mass ratio, advantageously equal to 50 / 50 C 16 / C 18 5. The composition of claim 1, comprising in a weight ratio:

6. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of fatty alcohol is between 2.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 8% by weight, and even more preferentially between 2.7% and 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. 7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16 to C22 hydrocarbon-based chain is selected from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate functional group, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof.

8. The anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain is represented by the general formula (I): RCOY(CH 2 ) n SO 3 M (wherein R represents a saturated linear or branched C16 to C22 alkyl group, and Y represents -O- or -NR 1 - represents R 1 represents a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group, M is selected from the group formed by hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium groups, and organic amines, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

9. 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16 to C22 hydrocarbon chain is N-stearoyl-N-methyl taurate, where M corresponds to Na.

10. 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the surfactant comprising at least one C16 to C22 hydrocarbon-based chain is present in an amount between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight, and even more preferentially between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the fatty alcohol (a) / anionic surfactant (b) weight ratio is between 10 / 1 and 6 / 4, preferably between 19 / 2 and 7 / 3, and even more preferentially between 9 / 1 and 4 / 1.

12. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the polyol comprises a number of carbon atoms in the range of 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.

13. 13. Composition according to claim 12, in which the polyol contains from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and is chosen in particular from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially glycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

14. 14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, wherein the polyol is present in an amount between 15.1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 18% and 45% by weight, even more preferentially between 19% and 40% by weight, and better still between 20% and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The non-silicone oils are selected from the group consisting of branched or linear alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and olefins of formula R 1 COOR 2 (In the formula, R 1 +R 2 is greater than or equal to 10, R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms), polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, fatty amides, aliphatic alcohols having a branched, optionally unsaturated carbon chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms and which are liquid at room temperature, higher C 19 ~C 22 15. The composition of any one of compositions 1 to 14, selected from fatty acids, carbonate esters, and mixtures thereof; in particular from oleyl erucate, branched or linear alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; more particularly from oleyl erucate, mixtures of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

16. 16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the non-silicone oil is present in an amount of between 8% and 40% by weight, preferably between 9% and 25% by weight, and even more preferentially between 10% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. A cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 to the keratinous materials.

18. 17. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 in the cosmetics field, in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

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