Compositions containing a UV filter, a suitably selected lipophilic polymer and carrageenan

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one appropriately selected lipophilic polymer and at least one carrageenan, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetics and dermatological field, in particular for the care and treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care, protection and / or make-up of the skin of the body or face or for hair care.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one appropriately selected lipophilic polymer and at least one carrageenan, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetics and dermatological fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care, protection and / or make-up of the skin of the body or face or for hair care. [Background technology]

[0002] A wide range of photoprotective compositions for protecting keratinous materials, and more particularly the skin, from the harmful effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation are already known. Most of these contain, as anti-UV active agents, a combination of several organic or inorganic UV filters carried in an oily and / or aqueous phase, and are generally proposed in emulsion or gel-type formulations.

[0003] Radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm can produce tanning in the human epidermis, while radiation with wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm, known as UVB radiation, is known to inhibit natural tanning. Such exposure also tends to cause a deterioration in the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, which manifests as the appearance of wrinkles and ultimately leads to premature skin aging.

[0004] It is also known that UVA rays, with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, penetrate deeper into the skin than UVB rays. UVA rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Regular exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods of time, can cause degradation of collagen and elastin fibers, which manifests as micro-irregular changes in the skin's texture, the appearance of wrinkles, and uneven pigmentation (chloasma or uneven complexion).

[0005] It is therefore necessary to provide protection against UVA and UVB radiation. An effective photoprotection product must provide protection against both UVA and UVB radiation.

[0006] Many photoprotective compositions have been proposed to combat the effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. These generally contain organic and / or inorganic UV filters, which function according to their inherent chemical nature and their inherent absorption, reflection, or scattering properties for UV radiation. They usually contain a mixture of fat-soluble organic and / or water-soluble UV filters in combination with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

[0007] Many cosmetic compositions have been proposed to inhibit skin darkening and improve the tone and evenness of the complexion. It is well known in the field of sun protection products that such compositions can be achieved by using UV filters, particularly UVB filters. Some compositions also contain UVA filters. This filter system must provide UVB protection, with the aim of limiting and controlling the de novo synthesis of melanin, which promotes overall pigmentation, as well as UVA protection, in order to limit and control the oxidation of pre-existing melanin, which leads to skin darkening.

[0008] The conditions under which sun protection compositions are used are extremely diverse and depend on the activity undertaken by the consumer: use at the beach is very common, where they are applied to dry or wet skin, especially after swimming.

[0009] However, active ingredients such as UV filters tend to be diluted on wet skin, reducing their protective properties.

[0010] Existing sun protection compositions are available in a variety of textures, but most are difficult to apply to wet skin. Specifically, spreading the composition on wet skin can result in a significant whitening effect, which is unpopular with consumers and can also result in an uneven protective film, which negatively impacts the degree of skin protection. When this happens, the composition must be rubbed into the skin for a significant amount of time to achieve a uniform, transparent appearance. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0011] Therefore, there is a great need for sun protection compositions that do not suffer from the above-mentioned drawbacks, i.e., sun protection compositions that are stable, compatible with application to both dry and wet skin, and that exhibit a high level of in vivo sun protection efficacy (SPF) whether the product is applied to dry or wet skin. [Means for solving the problem]

[0012] Surprisingly, the applicant has found that the above-mentioned object can be achieved by a composition comprising one or more UV screening agents, one or more appropriately selected lipophilic polymers, and one or more polysaccharides selected from carrageenans, and that it is possible to obtain a screening agent composition that is particularly highly compatible with wet skin, can be applied to both dry and wet skin, and provides a high SPF on both dry and wet skin.

[0013] One subject of the present invention is therefore a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: a) at least one UV filter; b) at least one lipophilic polymer, comprising monomer units of formula (A) and (B): [ka] (In the formula, R1 are independently selected from alkyl or alkenyl groups; at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are groups selected from stearyl and behenyl groups, this weight percentage being relative to the sum of all R1 groups present in the polymer; the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units having an R1 group is in the range of 1:30 to 1:1; the sum of units A and B is at least 95% by weight based on the total weight of the polymer; c) at least one carrageenan; A composition comprising:

[0014] Unlike conventional sun protection compositions, the compositions of the present invention can be applied satisfactorily to wet skin while still providing a high level of sun protection.

[0015] Specifically, the compositions of the present invention have good workability: they spread easily on both wet and dry skin and can be applied evenly without forming a whitish film on the skin.

[0016] The composition can also provide UV protection with a high SPF, thereby providing better protection to the skin whether the composition is applied to dry or wet skin.

[0017] The compositions of the present invention are also stable over long periods of time.

[0018] Furthermore, the composition of the present invention has good cosmetic properties, especially in terms of its sticky feel, in particular it is comfortable to wear and not sticky.

[0019] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising applying to the surface of said keratinous materials at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

[0020] In particular, the subject of the present invention is a method for carrying out non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin, in particular human skin, in particular dry skin and / or wet skin, against UV radiation, which method consists in applying to said skin a composition according to the invention as defined above.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for limiting skin darkening and / or improving complexion tone and / or uneven complexion, which comprises applying to the surface of a keratinous material at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

[0022] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of keratinous materials, comprising applying to the surface of the keratinous materials at least one composition according to the invention as defined above. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.

[0024] The term "stable over time" according to the present invention means that the composition does not change macroscopically in color, odor or viscosity or change in pH, nor does it change microscopically in appearance, after one month, preferably two months, of storage at temperatures ranging from 4°C to 45°C.

[0025] The term "good compatibility on wet skin" for the purposes of this invention means that the composition is applied to pre-wetted skin or skin substitute substrates at a concentration of 2 mg cm -2 This means that when applied at a rate of 0.1 to 0.5 wt. %, a uniform film that is transparent to the naked eye is obtained.

[0026] The term "SPF" for the purposes of the present invention means sun protection factor, which measures the degree of protection against UVB rays. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio of the shortest time it takes to get sunburned when using a sun protection composition to the time it takes to get sunburned when no product is used. More specifically, "SPF" is defined in the article "A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum," J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0027] The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be evaluated in vitro using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The sheet is made of a material coated with a sun protection composition. Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) sheets have been found to be ideal for this procedure.

[0028] The evaluation of the sun protection factor (SPF) of a composition can also be carried out in vivo according to the procedure of ISO / EN 24444 "Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2019)".

[0029] For the purposes of this invention, "PPD" (prolonged immediate darkening) refers to an index that characterizes protection against UVA rays. Specifically, PPD measures the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA rays. This method has been adopted by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official test method for product UVA labeling since 1996 and is also commonly used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective as of January 1, 1996).

[0030] Other features, aspects and aspects of the present invention will become apparent from reading the following detailed description.

[0031] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" being used herein to mean a medium that is compatible with keratinous materials.

[0032] The term "keratinous materials" in connection with the present invention means in particular the skin, the scalp, keratinous fibres, such as the eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair, body hair, nails and mucous membranes, such as the lips, more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (of the body, face, around the eyes, eyelids or lips, preferably of the body, face and lips).

[0033] In the text below, unless otherwise specified, the limits of numerical ranges are encompassed by the ranges, particularly the expressions "between" and "ranging from."

[0034] Furthermore, as used in this disclosure, the terms "at least one" and "at least" are synonymous with the terms "one or more" and "more than," respectively.

[0035] The term "preventing" or "prevention" according to the present invention means reducing the risk of or delaying the occurrence of a given phenomenon, i.e., according to the present invention, signs of ageing of keratinous materials.

[0036] The term "organic UVA filter" refers to any organic chemical molecule that is capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range of 320-400 nm; further, the molecule may additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range of 280-320 nm.

[0037] The term "organic UVB filter" refers to any organic molecule that can absorb only UVB radiation in the wavelength range of 280-320 nm.

[0038] According to a particular embodiment according to the invention, the composition is in emulsion form.

[0039] The term "emulsion" refers to any kinetically stable, macroscopically homogeneous composition containing at least two immiscible phases, one of which is a dispersing continuous phase and the other of which is dispersed in the continuous phase in the form of small droplets. The two phases are kinetically stabilized using at least one emulsifying system, generally including at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0040] A distinction is made between oil-in-water "normal phase" emulsions, which consist of a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed discontinuous oily phase, and water-in-oil "reverse phase" emulsions, which consist of a continuous oily phase and a dispersed discontinuous aqueous phase. There are also multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.

[0041] UV screening agent The composition according to the invention comprises at least one UV filter.

[0042] The UV filter may be selected from lipophilic organic UV filters, hydrophilic organic UV filters and inorganic UV filters.

[0043] Lipophilic organic UV screening agent The term "lipophilic organic screening agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound capable of screening UV radiation and capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or capable of being dissolved in colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0044] Lipophilic organic screening agents include, in particular, cinnamic compounds, anthranilic ester compounds, salicylic acid compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds, benzophenone compounds, β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds, benzalmalonic ester compounds, in particular those cited in U.S. Pat. No. 5,624,663, benzimidazole derivatives, imidazoline compounds, bisbenzazolyl compounds as described in EP Pat. No. 669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264, methylenebis(hydrogen) compounds as described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,237,071, U.S. Pat. No. 5,166,355, GB Pat. No. 2,303,549, DE Pat. No. 19,726,184 and EP Pat. No. 893,119. benzoxazole compounds as described in EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10 162 844; shielding polymers and shielding silicones, such as those described in particular in WO 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene dimers, such as those described in DE 19 855 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in EP 0 967 200, DE 19 746 654, DE 19 755 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981; and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Preferably, the lipophilic organic screening agent is selected from salicylic acid compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents include those represented by the following INCI and / or chemical names: Cinnamates: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, in particular that sold under the trade name Parsol® MCX by DSM Nutritional Products, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate sold under the name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by the company Symrise,

[0047] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, in particular that sold under the trade name Parsol® 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products;

[0048] Salicylates: Homosalate, sold under the name Parsol® HMS by DSM Nutritional Products; ethylhexyl salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan® OS by the company Symrise;

[0049] β,β-diphenyl acrylate compounds: octocrylene, in particular that sold under the name Uvinul® N 539 T by the company BASF,

[0050] Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold under the trade name Uvinul® M 40 by BASF, (Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl)hexyl benzoate, sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus or, in a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus B;

[0051] Benzylidene camphor compounds: 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name Eusolex® 6300 by Merck

[0052] Phenylbenzotriazole compounds: Drometrizole trisiloxane, manufactured by Noveal under the name Mexoryl® XL;

[0053] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds: Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, especially in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name Mixxim BB / 100® by Fairmount Chemical Company;

[0054] Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), whose INCI name is Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl Triazine, - bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb® S by BASF ethylhexyl triazone, in particular that sold under the trade name Uvinul® T150 by the company BASF; - diethylhexylbutamide triazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb® HEB by the company 3V Sigma, symmetric triazine shielding agents substituted with naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,225,467, WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or in the publication "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004),

[0055] Anthranilic acid ester compounds: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan® MA by Symrise,

[0056] Benzalmalonic acid ester compounds: Polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate groups, for example Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by the company Hoffmann-LaRoche.

[0057] Hydrophilic organic UV screening agents The term "hydrophilic organic UV filter" for the purposes of the present invention refers to a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter.

[0058] The term "water-soluble organic screening agent" means any organic screening agent that can be completely dissolved in a molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or that can be dissolved in a colloidal form (e.g., in a micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0059] The term "water-dispersible organic screening agent" means any organic screening agent capable of forming a homogeneous suspension of particles having a volume mean diameter of less than 100 microns in a liquid aqueous phase, the volume mean diameter being determined by laser diffraction particle size analysis.

[0060] Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, in particular those described in patent applications FR 2 528 420 A and FR 2 639 347 A. Mention may in particular be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid), such as the product manufactured by the company Novel under the name Mexoryl® SX.

[0061] These screening agents have the general formula (I): [Chemical formula 1] [ka] (wherein F is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, or NH(R1)3 + group (wherein R1 groups may be the same or different and are hydrogen atoms, C1-C4 alkyl groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, or Mn + represents Mn + represents a polyvalent metal cation, n is 2, 3, or 4, and Mn + is preferably Ca 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mg 2+ , Ba 2+ , Al 3+ and Zr 4+ It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (I) above may occur in "cis-trans" isomers about one or more double bonds, and that all isomers are encompassed within the context of the present invention.

[0062] Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of compounds containing at least two benzazolyl groups bearing sulfonic acid groups, such as those described in EP-A-0 669 323.

[0063] They are also described in US Pat. No. 2,463,264 and EP-A-0669323 and are prepared according to the syntheses given therein.

[0064] The compound containing at least two benzazolyl groups according to the present invention has the following general formula (II): [Chemical formula 2] [ka] (In the formula, - Z represents a (l+n)-valent organic residue containing one or more double bonds arranged in such a way that they complete the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups defined in the square brackets, forming a fully conjugated assembly; - X' is S, O or NR 6 represents; -R 1 are hydrogen atoms, C1 to C 18 Alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy, C5-C 15 Aryl, C2-C 18 represents acyloxy, a SOY group, or a COOY group; -R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and R 5 The groups may be the same or different and may be a nitro group or an R 1 represents the group; -R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, C1-C4 alkyl, or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl; Y represents a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH4, ½Ca, ½Mg, ⅓Al or a cation formed by neutralizing a free acid group with an organic nitrogen base; - m is 0 or 1; - n is a number from 2 to 6; - l is a number from 1 to 4; - However, the value of 1+n does not exceed 6.

[0065] Among these compounds, the most particularly preferred is 1,4-bis(benzimidazolyl)phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) or a salt thereof, having the following structure, in particular that sold under the name Neo Heliopan® AP by Symrise: [Chemical formula 3] [ka]

[0066] Preferably, the water-soluble screening agent capable of absorbing UVA rays is benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid), such as the product manufactured by Noveal under the name Mexoryl SX.

[0067] Water-soluble organic UVB filters which can be used according to the invention are selected in particular from water-soluble cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic acid compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Examples of water-soluble organic UVB filters that may be mentioned are phenylbenzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), in particular that sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex 232®.

[0069] The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one mixed water-soluble screening agent capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.

[0070] If the water-soluble UV filter is of the sulfonic acid type, it is preferably accompanied by an organic base such as an alkanolamine.

[0071] The term "alkanolamine" refers to a C2-C6 alkyl amine containing at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine group and at least one alcohol, usually a primary alcohol group. 10 Suitable alkanolamines include 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: Tromethamine) and triethanolamine.

[0072] Among the water-dispersible organic screening agents, the following screening agents may be mentioned:

[0073] Benzophenone compounds: 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), such as that described in WO 2007 / 071584; this compound is advantageously used in finely divided form (volume mean diameter 0.02 to 2 μm), in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion, which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in GB 2 303 549 A and EP-A-893 119.

[0074] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds: An aqueous dispersion of finely divided particles of methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol having a volume average particle size in the range of 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferentially in the range of 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly in the range of 0.020 to 2 μm, comprising C n H 2n+1 O(CH 10 O5) x H (wherein n is an integer from 8 to 16, and x is (CH 10 05) units, which has an average degree of polymerization ranging from 1.4 to 1.6), such as the aqueous dispersions described in GB 2 303 549 A, in particular the products sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by BASF, or An aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size in the range of 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferentially 0.01 to 1.5 μm, more particularly 0.02 to 1 μm, comprising at least one mono(C8-C10) glycerol having a degree of polymerization of at least 5. 20 ) in the form of aqueous dispersions in which alkyl polyglycerol esters are present, such as those described in WO 2009 / 063392, in particular the product sold under the name Tinosorb WPGL by BASF;

[0075] Triazine compounds: - bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine in water-dispersible form, having the INCI name Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine (and) (Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer) under the trade name Tinosorb® S LiteAqua by the company BASF, - symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups, used in finely divided form (average particle size 0.02 to 3 μm), obtainable for example by the micronization processes described in GB 2 303 549 A and EP-A-893 119, in particular in the form of aqueous dispersions, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine, as sold by BASF under the name Tinosorb® A2B and contained in WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO 2006 / 034985;

[0076] Benzoxazole compounds: 2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole with CAS number 904-39-2.

[0077] Inorganic UV screening agents The inorganic UV filters that can be used according to the invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles with an average primary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, better still between 0.01 and 0.1 μm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 μm. These are in particular, but not exclusively, listed in Annex VI of the European Cosmetics Regulation No. 1223 / 2009, updated on September 22, 2021.

[0078] These may be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide or mixtures thereof.

[0079] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in EP-A-0 518 773. Commercially available pigments include products sold by the companies Croda, Tayca and Merck.

[0080] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0081] Coated pigments are pigments that have been surface treated for one or more of the chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical properties with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicone, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxide, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0082] The coated pigment is more particularly titanium oxide coated with: - coated with hydrous silica, for example MT-100WP, a product from Tayca; - coated with silica and iron oxide, for example the product Sunveil F® from Ikeda; - coated with silica and alumina, such as the products MT 500 SA and MT 100 SA from Teika and Tioveil AQ-N from Croda; - coated with alumina, for example TTO-55(A)®, a product from Ishihara Sangyo Kaisha, Ltd. coated with alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the products MT 100 TV®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® from Teika, the product Solaveil CT100 from Croda and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from Merck; - coated with silica, alumina and alginate, such as MT-100 AQ®, a product from Teika Corporation; - coated with alumina and aluminum laurate, - Coated with iron oxide and iron stearate, - Coated with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, coated with silica and alumina and treated with silicone, such as the products MTY-500 SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100 SAS® from Teika Corporation; - Coated with silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with silicone, - silica coated and silicone treated, coated with alumina and treated with silicone, such as TTO-55(S)®, a product from Ishihara Sangyo Kaisha, Ltd.; - coated with triethanolamine, - coated with stearic acid, for example TTO-55(C)(registered trademark), a product from Ishihara Sangyo Kaisha, Ltd. - coated with sodium hexametaphosphate, - TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, - Anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylhydrogensiloxane, TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate and alumina, sold under the trade name Solaveil® CT-200 by Croda, - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone, sold under the trade name Solaveil® CT-12W by Croda, - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, - TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate ester and aluminum hydroxide.

[0083] Also included are TiO pigments doped with at least one transition metal, such as iron, zinc, or manganese, more particularly manganese. Preferably, the doped pigment is in the form of an oil dispersion. The oil present in the oil dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, such as capric / caprylic triglyceride. The oil dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also contain one or more dispersants, such as sorbitan esters, e.g., sorbitan isostearate, or fatty acid esters of polyoxyalkylenated glycerol, e.g., tri-PPG-3 myristyl citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oil dispersion of titanium dioxide particles contains at least one dispersant selected from fatty acid esters of polyoxyalkylenated glycerol. More particularly, mention may be made of an oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles, whose INCI name is titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, dispersed in caprylic / capric triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate, or the product sold by Croda under the trade name Optisol™ OTP-1.

[0084] Uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are sold, for example, by Teika Corporation under the trade names MT-500B and MT-600B® or by Evonik under the trade name Degussa P 25.

[0085] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those shown below: - those sold under the name Z-Cote® by BASF; - Sold by Nanophase Technologies under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide.

[0086] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those shown below: - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane; Solaveil® CZ-100 from Croda (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid), dispersed in C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate; - sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-60VA (registered trademark) by Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd. (dispersion in C9-12 alkanes, containing dispersing agent); - sold by Shin-Etsu under the name SPD-Z5® (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);

[0087] The uncoated cerium oxide pigment may, for example, be that sold under the name Rhodigard® W185 by the company Solvay.

[0088] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, such as an equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide (coated with silica), and mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide (coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol).

[0089] If the composition according to the invention comprises an inorganic UV filter, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.

[0090] According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of UV filters present in the composition is 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV filters present in the composition is 15% to 35% by weight, preferably 18% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] The term "total amount of UV filters" for the purposes of the present invention means the sum of the active substance concentrations of the UV filters, in particular lipophilic organic UV filters, hydrophilic organic UV filters and inorganic UV filters, present in the composition.

[0092] Lipophilic Polymer The composition according to the present invention comprises a compound represented by formula (A) and (B): [ka] (In the formula, R1 are independently selected from alkyl or alkenyl groups; at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are groups selected from stearyl and behenyl groups, this weight percentage being based on the sum of all R1 groups present in the polymer; the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units having an R1 group is in the range of 1:30 to 1:1; The polymer comprises at least one lipophilic polymer containing monomer units (the sum of units A and B being at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer).

[0093] Preferably, R1 is an alkyl group, preferably C 16 ~C 22 alkyl groups, more preferentially stearyl (C 18 ) group or behenyl (C 22 ) group.

[0094] Preferably, at least 70% by weight, preferentially at least 80% by weight and more preferentially at least 90% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl or behenyl groups.

[0095] According to one preferred embodiment, all R1 groups are behenyl groups.

[0096] According to another preferred embodiment, all R1 groups are stearyl groups.

[0097] Preferably, said mass ratio is in the range of 1:15 to 1:1, preferentially in the range of 1:10 to 1:4.

[0098] Advantageously, the polymer units present in the polymer consist of units (A) and (B) as previously described.

[0099] The number average molecular weight Mn of the polymer is in the range of 2000 to 9000 g / mol, preferably in the range of 5000 to 9000 g / mol. The number average molecular weight can be measured by gel permeation chromatography, for example, according to the method described later in the Examples.

[0100] Preferably, the melting point of the polymer is in the range of 40° C. to 70° C., preferentially in the range of 45° C. to 67° C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described below in the examples.

[0101] According to a first embodiment, the melting point of the polymer is generally in the range of 40 to 60°C, preferentially in the range of 45 to 55°C, provided that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl groups.

[0102] According to a second embodiment, provided that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl groups, the melting point of the polymer is generally in the range of 60-70°C, preferentially in the range of 63-67°C.

[0103] The polymers used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerizing a monomer of formula CH2=CH-COO-R1, where R1 is as defined above, and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0104] The polymerization can be carried out according to a known method such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.

[0105] This polymerization is described, for example, in US Patent Application Publication No. 2007 / 0264204.

[0106] The lipophilic polymers described above used in connection with the present invention may be present in the composition in such a way that the amount of active substance ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Carrageenan The composition according to the invention comprises at least one carrageenan.

[0108] Carrageenans are polysaccharides extracted from algae and used as gelling agents in the food industry. In particular, they are sulfated polysaccharides that constitute the cell walls of various red algae from which they can be obtained.

[0109] Among these red algae, mention may be made, but is not limited to, Kappaphycus alvarezii, Eucheuma denticulatum, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Betaphycus gelatinum, Gigartina skottsbergii, Gigartina canaliculata, Sarcothalia crispata, Mazzaella laminaroides, Hypnea musciformis, Mastocarpus stellatus, and Iridaea cordata.

[0110] Carrageenan contains long galactan chains made up of disaccharide units.

[0111] They consist of alternating (1→3) β-D-galactopyranose (G unit) and (1→4) α-galactopyranose (D unit) or 3,6-anhydro-α-galactopyranose (AnGal unit), and may be sulfated at one or more of the 2, 3, 4, or 6 positions of each sugar unit.

[0112] Methyl groups, pyruvate and other sugar units may be grafted onto the basic structure described above.

[0113] Carrageenans were originally subclassified according to their solubility in KCl and then subdivided according to the number and position of sulfate groups and the presence or absence of 3',6'-anhydro bridges on the galactopyranosyl residues.

[0114] At least 15 types of carrageenans have been listed, the structures of which vary depending on the algae from which they originate and the method of extraction.

[0115] The most common carrageenans are: [ka]

[0116] Therefore, in many cases, these carrageenans are obtained in the form of a mixture of different structures, for example, but not limited to, a mixture of kappa theta, kappa i and kappa mu carrageenans.

[0117] The carrageenans that can be used can be chosen in particular from the μ, κ, v, ι, λ, θ carrageenans and mixtures thereof in any proportions, in particular λ, κ or ι carrageenans or mixtures thereof will be used.

[0118] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one carrageenan that comprises predominantly or exclusively the iota type.

[0119] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one carrageenan that comprises predominantly or exclusively the lambda type.

[0120] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one carrageenan containing mainly or exclusively the iota type and at least one carrageenan containing mainly or exclusively the lambda type, in which case the ratio of the carrageenan containing mainly or exclusively the iota type to the carrageenan containing mainly or exclusively the lambda type is between 0.2 and 5, preferentially between 0.75 and 1.25.

[0121] The term "predominantly" means that the proportion of this type of chain in the composition of the product is greater than or equal to 50%, and in certain embodiments this proportion can be greater than or equal to 80%.

[0122] According to a particular embodiment, the carrageenan according to the invention is carrageenan derived from Chondrus crispus or Kappaphycus alvarezii. Preferably, the carrageenan is derived from Chondrus crispus.

[0123] The molecular weight of the carrageenan useful in the present invention is 300 to 100 x 10 6 Their molecular weight can be between 10 x 10 Daltons. 3 Dalton ~ 10 x 10 6 It could be between Dalton.

[0124] A carrageenan suitable for use according to the invention may in particular be one extracted from Chondrus crispus, such as that sold by Cargill, In particular, the carrageenan according to the invention may be Satiagum UPC 410, a product sold by Cargill.

[0125] Other carrageenans suitable for use in accordance with the present invention are the products AEC Carrageenan Gel and AEC Carrageenan Powder sold by A&E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics), Gelcarin GP379, Gelcarin GP812, Gelcarin GP911, SeaSpen PF, Viscarin GP109, Viscarin GP209 and Viscarin GP328 sold by FMC Corporation, and Genugel Carrageenan and Genuvisco Carrageenan sold by CP Kelco.

[0126] The carrageenan is generally present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.2% to 10.0% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 7.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] wax According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax.

[0128] Waxes generally refer to lipophilic compounds that are solid at room temperature (25°C), undergo a reversible solid / liquid state change, and have a melting point above 30°C, which may be up to 200°C, usually up to 120°C.

[0129] The melting point for the purposes of the present invention corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO standard 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.

[0130] Preferably, the heat of fusion ΔHf of the wax that can be used in the composition of the present invention is 70 J / g or more.

[0131] Preferably, the wax comprises at least one crystallizable moiety that is visible by X-ray observation.

[0132] The measurement procedure is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and heated from -20°C to 120°C at a rate of 10°C per minute for the first time, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a rate of 10°C per minute, and finally heated from -20°C to 120°C at a rate of 5°C per minute for the second time. During the second heating, the following parameters are measured: the melting temperature or melting point (mp) of the wax, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in the melting curve, which represents the variation of the absorbed power difference as a function of temperature, as previously mentioned; - The heat of fusion of the wax ΔHf, which corresponds to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0133] When waxes are present in the composition according to the invention, they may be present in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, and better still from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

[0134] When waxes are present in the composition according to the invention, they may be present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, more precisely, at least one hard wax.

[0136] The term "hard wax" for the purposes of the present invention means a wax having a melting point above 50°C, in particular in the range from 50 to 100°C, more preferentially between 50 and 90°C.

[0137] Advantageously, the term "hard wax" for the purposes of the present invention means a wax whose hardness at 20°C is greater than 5 MPa, in particular in the range from 5 to 30 MPa, preferably greater than 6 MPa and better still in the range from 6 to 25 MPa.

[0138] To carry out this hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature of the melting point of the wax + 20° C. To do this, 30 g of wax are placed in a 100 ml beaker with a diameter of 50 mm, which is itself placed on a magnetically stirred hotplate.

[0139] Approximately 15 g of molten wax is poured into a stainless steel container with a diameter of 80 mm and a depth of 15 mm and preheated in an oven to 45°C. The wax is then allowed to recrystallize in a constant temperature room at 20°C for 24 hours before measurement.

[0140] The mechanical properties of the wax or wax mixture are measured in a temperature-controlled room at 20° C. using a texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company Swantech, fitted with a stainless steel cylinder of 2 mm diameter.

[0141] The measurement involves three steps: first, after automatically detecting the sample surface, the spindle is moved at a measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s until it penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, and the maximum load value reached is recorded by the software; second, "relaxation" step: the spindle is held in this position for 1 second and the load after 1 second of relaxation is recorded; third, "withdrawal" step: finally, the spindle is returned to the initial position at a speed of 1 mm / s, and the energy (negative force) when the probe is withdrawn is recorded.

[0142] Hardness values ​​are calculated by multiplying the maximum compressive load, measured in Newtons, by the area of ​​the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax (mm 2 The hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.

[0143] Examples of hard waxes that may be mentioned include, in particular, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, rice bran wax, Japan wax, sunflower wax, macadamia wax and hydrogenated olive oil, such as Waxolive from Soliance, waxes obtained by hydrogenating olive oil esterified with C12-C18 fatty alcohols, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Olive 16L55 and 18L57 by Sophim, and waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl or behenyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16 L 64 and Phytowax Ricin 22 L 73 by Sophim.

[0144] Preferably, plant-derived waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Japan wax, wax obtained by hydrogenating olive oil esterified with a C12 to C18 fatty chain alcohol, or rice bran wax can be used.

[0145] The hard wax is preferably polar.

[0146] The term "polar wax" refers to a wax with a calculated solubility parameter of 0 (J / cm) above its melting point δa. 3 ) 1 / 2 means wax that is not.

[0147] In particular, "polar wax" refers to a wax whose chemical structure is essentially formed from or even composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and which contains at least one highly electronegative heteroatom, such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0148] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the paper by C. M. Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0149] According to this Hansen space: - δD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced by the interaction of molecules; - δp characterizes the Debye interaction force acting between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction force acting between induced and permanent dipoles; - δh characterizes the strength of a particular interaction (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.); - δa is calculated by the formula: δa = (δp 2 +δh 2 )1 / 2.

[0150] The parameters δp, δh, δD and δa are (J / cm 3 ) expressed in 1 / 2 units.

[0151] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one soft wax, ie a wax having a melting point strictly below 50° C. and, optionally, a wax having a hardness strictly below 5 MPa.

[0152] However, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5% by weight of soft waxes, preferably less than 2% by weight of soft waxes, and more preferentially no soft waxes.

[0153] Silicone Copolymer According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more silicone copolymers obtained by copolymerizing at least one monomer of the ester type of a carboxylic acid and an alcohol having a fatty chain of C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24, with at least one monomer comprising a polyalkylsiloxane chain.

[0154] Among the monomers of the ester type of carboxylic acid and fatty alcohol that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24, fatty alkyl acrylates, methacrylates, maleates, fumarates, itaconic esters and crotonates, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0155] Preferably, the carboxylic acid ester type monomer of a C6 to C30 fatty chain alcohol is selected from C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24 fatty chain alcohol (meth)acrylic acid esters.

[0156] In other words, the ester type monomer of carboxylic acid and C6-C30 fatty chain alkyl is preferably represented by the structure (IV): [ka] (In the formula, R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24 alkyl chain) and mixtures thereof.

[0157] R2 advantageously represents a branched saturated or unsaturated C8 to C24 alkyl chain.

[0158] According to a first particularly preferred embodiment, R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a branched saturated or unsaturated C8 to C12 alkyl chain, more preferentially a 2-ethylhexyl group.

[0159] According to a second particularly preferred embodiment, R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a linear saturated or unsaturated C14 to C20 alkyl chain, more preferentially a stearyl group.

[0160] Preferably, the monomer comprising the polyalkylsiloxane chain has the structure (V): [ka] (In the formula, R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R4, R5, R6, R7, and R8 may be the same or different, and independently represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C30 alkyl chain; n and m are independently an integer greater than or equal to 1, and are selected from (meth)acrylic acid type monomers esterified with silicone groups.

[0161] Preferably, R3 represents methyl.

[0162] Preferably, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8, independently of one another, may be identical or different and represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C24, more preferentially C1 to C12 alkyl chain.

[0163] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 represent methyl.

[0164] The silicone copolymer according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, in particular one or more ester monomers of carboxylic acids and C1-C5 alcohols. Preferably, the additional monomers are selected from esters of (meth)acrylic acid with C1-C4 alcohols and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from methyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, butyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, ethyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0165] Preferably, the silicone copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is selected from copolymers obtained by copolymerizing at least one monomer having structure (IV) (wherein R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated branched C7 to C24 alkyl chain) with at least one monomer having structure (V) (wherein R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 all represent methyl groups, n is an integer from 1 to 6 and m is an integer equal to or greater than 1); and mixtures thereof.

[0166] Silicone copolymers are generally obtained according to conventional polymerization and grafting methods, for example by radical polymerization of at least one monomer of the polydimethylsiloxane type containing at least one polymerizable radical group as described above (for example at one or both chain ends) and one carboxylic acid alkyl ester monomer containing at least a C7 to C30 fatty chain, as described, for example, in US Pat. Nos. 5,061,481 and 5,219,560.

[0167] The resulting silicone copolymers generally have molecular weights in the range of about 3,000 to 200,000, preferably about 5,000 to 100,000.

[0168] The silicone copolymers used in the compositions according to the invention may be in the neat form or in the form dispersed in a solvent, for example a lower alcohol containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or an oil, for example a volatile silicone oil, preferably cyclopentasiloxane or dimethicone, or even a hydrocarbon-based oil, such as liquid paraffin or isoparaffin, for example isododecane.

[0169] Preferably, the solvent is chosen from oils, and more preferentially from cyclopentasiloxane, linear pentadimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0170] The silicone copolymers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are preferentially chosen from stearyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and propyl methacrylate copolymers comprising polydimethylsiloxane chains; methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl methacrylate copolymers comprising polydimethylsiloxane chains; and mixtures thereof.

[0171] In particular, acrylate / dimethicone copolymer sold under the trade name KP-561 by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. Examples include KP-541, a copolymer of stearyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, and propyl methacrylate containing polydimethylsiloxane groups; KP-545, a copolymer of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and propyl methacrylate containing polydimethylsiloxane groups dispersed in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; KP-545L, a copolymer of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and propyl methacrylate containing polydimethylsiloxane groups dispersed in linear pentadimethylsiloxane; and KP-550, a copolymer of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and propyl methacrylate containing polydimethylsiloxane groups dispersed in isododecane.

[0172] Preferably, the silicone copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is chosen from the products sold under the trade names KP-545 and KP-545L by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0173] When silicone copolymer is present in the composition according to the invention, its amount preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] fatty phase The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

[0175] The fatty phase can consist of any fatty substance conventionally used in the cosmetics or dermatological field: it includes in particular the waxes defined above, and can also include at least one oil. The fatty phase also includes lipophilic screening agents, including fatty alcohols, present in the composition according to the invention.

[0176] The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0177] The term "volatile oil" for the purposes of the present invention means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure in less than one hour. The volatile oil of the present invention is liquid at room temperature and has a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (10 -3 The viscosity of the cosmetic oil is in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg), and more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0178] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and in particular has a vapor pressure of 10 -3 This means oil with a viscosity of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0179] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" for the purposes of the present invention means any oil that contains mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and may contain one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen, and thus may contain in particular one or more ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0180] The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0181] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: (i) Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters (generally fatty acid triesters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which are C4 to C6 24 and the chain lengths may vary between 0.01 and 0.01, and these chains may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. These oils include, inter alia, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa seed oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and rose moschata oil; or caprylic / capric triglycerides, e.g., Stearineries those sold by Dubois or by Sasol under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818; (ii) synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, for example, vaseline, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof; (iv) synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula RCOOR', where R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R+R' is ≥ 10, such as purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates (C12-C15), such as the products sold under the trade names Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the products sold under the trade name X-Tend® by the company ISP. 226®, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the products sold under the name Dub Dis by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoic, decanoic or ricinoleic esters of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrate or tartrate esters, such as di(linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrate esters, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and di(linear C14-C15 alkyl) tartrate esters, such as Cosmacol ETI by the same company. Sold under the name ETL; acetate; (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) higher C12 to C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid; (vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof.

[0182] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the present invention, more particularly preferred are glyceride triesters, in particular caprylic / capric triglycerides, synthetic esters, in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol.Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, and dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0183] Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention include, in particular, hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C8 to C16 alkanes, such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) of petroleum origin, for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8 to C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0184] Mention may also be made of alkanes (mixtures of different alkanes differing in the number of carbon atoms by at least one) described in Cognis' patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which themselves are obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil. Mention may also be made of the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis' patent application WO 2008 / 155059. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), as well as mixtures thereof, sold by Sasol under the trade names Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively.

[0185] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can also be used, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold by Shell under the name Shell Solt®. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0186] The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups (each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms) pendant to and / or at the ends of the silicone chain, or phenylsilicones, such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane or 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0187] Volatile silicone oils include, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8×10 -6 m 2 / s), particularly those containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms, which silicones optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention include, in particular, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0188] Examples of linear volatile alkyltrisiloxanes include: 3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and Mention may be made of 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.

[0189] Volatile fluorine-based oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof can also be used.

[0190] The fatty phase according to the invention may also contain other fatty substances mixed with the oil or dissolved in the oil.

[0191] Other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase include, for example: - fatty acids selected from fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms other than the fatty-chain amino acids defined above, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; - rubbers selected from silicone rubbers (dimethiconol); pasty compounds, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of glycerol oligomers, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof; - and mixtures thereof.

[0192] The total oily phase of the composition, including all lipophilic substances soluble in the oily phase, including lipophilic screening agents, represents from 20% to 60% by weight, preferentially from 25% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] aqueous phase The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0194] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.

[0195] Aqueous phases suitable for use in the present invention may comprise water selected from natural spring waters or floral waters, such as, for example, water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc or water from Vichy.

[0196] Water-soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for use in the present invention include, in addition to the short chain alcohols defined above, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0197] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the total aqueous phase of the composition, including all hydrophilic substances soluble in the aqueous phase, including hydrophilic screening agents, represents 40% to 80% by weight, preferably 55% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] beauty active ingredients The compositions of the present invention may include at least one cosmetically active ingredient.

[0199] Examples of cosmetically active ingredients include moisturizers, such as protein hydrolysates and polyglycerol-3; natural extracts; vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and derivatives (especially esters) of said vitamins, and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; α-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts, and bacteria; enzymes; tensioning agents; agents acting on microcirculation; and mixtures thereof.

[0200] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one moisturizer, said moisturizer being preferably triglycerol (polyglycerol-3).

[0201] Those skilled in the art can easily adjust the amount of cosmetically active substance depending on the intended use of the composition according to the invention.

[0202] Additional adjuvants or additives The compositions of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents (e.g., tetrasodium glutamic acid diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (e.g., acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers, polysaccharides other than carrageenan, in particular xanthan gum), pH adjusters (e.g., triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g., starch octenylsuccinate aluminum and polymethylsilsesquioxane), and mixtures thereof.

[0203] Those skilled in the art will be able to select the amount of adjuvant or additive so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition of the present invention.

[0204] Dosage form The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art and can in particular be in the form of simple or multiple emulsions (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W), for example creams, milks or cream gels.

[0205] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (normal emulsion) or a water-in-oil emulsion (reverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0206] For compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification process can be of the paddle or impeller type, rotor-stator type and HPH type.

[0207] To obtain stable emulsions when the polymer content is low (oil / polymer ratio >25), it is possible to prepare a dispersion in the concentrated phase and then dilute the dispersion with the remaining aqueous phase.

[0208] Using HPH (50-800 bar) it is also possible to obtain stable dispersions with droplet sizes as small as 100 nm.

[0209] The emulsions may generally comprise at least one emulsifier selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or in mixtures, and are selected in an appropriate manner depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W emulsion).

[0210] Examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyols, or sugars; silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyol, for example, the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 5225 C®, and alkyl dimethicone copolyol, for example, lauryl methicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid; cetyl dimethicone copolyol, for example, the product sold by Goldschmidt under the name Abil EM 90R® and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol), and hexyl laurate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Abil WE O9®. One or more emulsifying aids can also be added, which can be advantageously selected from the group including polyol alkyl esters.

[0211] Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyols or of sugars.

[0212] Among the polyol alkyl esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, for example the product sold under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

[0213] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.

[0214] In the case of O / W emulsions, examples of nonionic emulsifying surfactants include polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids with glycerol, such as the polyethylene glycol stearate sold under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by Croda, which has the INCI name PEG-100 Stearate; esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids with sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with esters of fatty acids with glycerol, such as PEG-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate mixtures, such as Arlacel by ICI. 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters, for example sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohols and sugars, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, for example those sold under the names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, respectively, by Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside, optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, for example those sold under the name Montanov 68® by SEPPIC, those sold under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and those sold under the name Emulgade® by Henkel. Mention may be made of those sold under the name KE3302®, and arachidyl glucosides, such as those in the form of mixtures of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol with arachidyl glucoside, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanov 202®. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixtures of alkyl polyglucosides defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohols may be in the form of self-emulsifying compositions, as described, for example, in WO 92 / 06778.

[0215] The anionic surfactant that enables the formation of an O / W emulsion is at least one C8-C 30 , preferably C8 to C 24 Mention may be made of surfactants selected from amino acids modified with hydrocarbon chains and their salts, in particular acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or its salts (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or its salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0216] Such compounds are sold by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. under the name Amisoft, in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or by Cognis under the name Eumulgin SG.

[0217] Examples of anionic surfactants that enable the production of O / W emulsions include hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, particularly inulin modified with hydrophobic chains such as alkyl carbamate groups, particularly C8 to C18 alkyl carbamate groups, more particularly lauryl carbamate groups.

[0218] As an example of these compounds, mention may in particular be made of the product sold under the name Inutec SL1 by the company Creachem.

[0219] In the case of emulsions, the aqueous phase of the emulsion may comprise a non-ionic vesicle dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), French Patent Application No. 2315991 and French Patent No. 2416008).

[0220] The compositions according to the invention find use in many treatments of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular in cosmetic treatments, in particular for protecting and / or caring for the skin, lips and / or hair and / or for making up the skin and / or lips.

[0221] Another subject of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for producing products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, in particular care products, sun protection products and make-up products. [Example]

[0222] The present invention will now be more specifically described by way of examples, which are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way, but which can support certain features, modifications and preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0223] A / Example of the synthesis of lipophilic polymers containing monomer units of formulae (A) and (B) according to the invention Molecular weight determination by gel permeation chromatography (GPC): Samples are prepared by preparing a 10 mg / ml solution of polymer in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in a 54°C oven for 10 minutes and then shaken on a reciprocating shaker for 60 minutes to promote dissolution. Upon visual inspection, the sample appears to be completely dissolved in the solvent.

[0224] The prepared samples were analyzed using two 300 × 7.5 mm polypore columns (Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatography system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase, and refractive index detection. Samples were filtered through a 0.45 μm nylon filter before injection into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for calibration were narrow molecular weight distribution polystyrene (PS) standards from Easi Vials (Agilent Technologies).

[0225] Polystyrene standards ranging from 2520000 to 162 Daltons were used for calibration.

[0226] The system was equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. A polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The Win GPC Unichrom 81 program was used to record the chromatograms and determine the various molecular weights.

[0227] Determination of melting point by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC): This method describes a general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. The method is based on standards ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182, with calibration of the DSC according to standard ASTM E 9672.

[0228] Behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 1): In a four-neck flask equipped with a side-blade mixer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and extension connections from the other two necks, 175 g of behenyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added to 40 g of isopropanol over a 60-minute period with stirring at 80°C after 20 minutes of deoxygenation by flushing with nitrogen. The mixture was stirred at 80°C for 3 hours. The solvent was then removed by distillation under reduced pressure, after which 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added, and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110°C. This step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C, and a stream of demineralized water was added, after which the mixture was stirred. Water was removed by distillation under reduced pressure. Molecular weight: Mn=7300g / mol, Mw=21000, Mw / Mn=2.8 Melting point: 65℃

[0229] Stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 2): In a four-neck flask equipped with a side-blade mixer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and extension connections from the other two necks, 155 g of behenyl acrylate, 45 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added to 50 g of isopropanol over a 90-minute period with stirring at 80°C after 20 minutes of deoxygenation. The mixture was stirred at 80°C for 3 hours. The solvent was then removed by vacuum distillation, after which 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added, and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 125°C. This step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C, and a stream of demineralized water was added, after which the mixture was stirred. Water was removed by vacuum distillation. Molecular weight: Mn=7500g / mol, Mw=19000, Mw / Mn=2.6 Melting point: 49℃

[0230] B / Prescription example In these examples, the amount of a component present in the composition is given as a weight percentage of the starting material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] Application Procedure The application of sun protection products in relation to photoprotection testing is a crucial step as it significantly influences the SPF result, and therefore must be standardized and carried out under the most favorable conditions possible.

[0232] The application is performed on the backs of 3 to 10 volunteer subjects.

[0233] To apply the product, place 30cm between the shoulder blades and lower back. 2 Select the range.

[0234] These areas should be free of blemishes, hair, downy hair, moles or scars and should be uniform in colour.

[0235] Voluntary participants must be positioned so that their backs are completely flat.

[0236] The uniformity of the product is observed even when in contact with water, as the product can be spread on wet as well as dry skin.

[0237] There must be at least 1cm between each area. Each area must be 30cm 2 These areas should be drawn between the shoulder blades and the lower back. Unless otherwise specified, it is important to shake the product well to thoroughly homogenize the emulsion before removing the sample.

[0238] The sampling device (pipette or syringe) must be primed with the sample for taring. Double weighing before and after application is necessary to ensure the correct amount of product is applied. Ensure 2 mg / cm 2 Testing before application allowed us to assess the amount of product being taken, ensuring that ±2.5% was actually applied.

[0239] The product can be applied with or without a finger cot. If applied with a finger cot, the finger cot should be stretched taut over the ball of the finger to avoid excessive product waste and ensure optimal application.

[0240] The product can be applied with or without a finger cot, but the water application must be done with a finger cot. It is recommended to use light pressure throughout the application, without any back-and-forth movements or lifting of the finger, and to adhere to an application time of 20 to 50 seconds.

[0241] On dry skin: The applied product droplets should be evenly and uniformly sized across the entire area, and care should be taken to ensure that the droplets are not placed too close to the edge of the area to prevent excessive overflow during application.

[0242] Several factors must be taken into account when applying: light pressure must be used and circular movements are essential. Ideally, one should start with a small circle and widen it, always in the same direction within this area, moving in small increments towards the opposite edge of the area. Care must be taken to ensure that the product is properly extended to the edges, without excessive product concentration in the centre. The linear movements of the finishing step must be performed in a straight line. It is recommended that this step be carried out quickly to avoid compromising the uniformity of the deposit.

[0243] On wet skin: The procedure for application to wet skin is the same as for dry skin.

[0244] First, 1.7 mg / cm 2 and 2 mg / cm 2 Apply ±2.5% of the amount of product.

[0245] 1.7 mg / cm across the entire test range 2 of water (40cm 2 Apply a dose of 100mg (=68mg) evenly in the form of regular microdroplets. Using a fingertip fitted with a finger cot, spread the droplets quickly (for a maximum of 10-15 seconds) using a circular motion, followed by one linear sweep (along the length of the area).

[0246] When applying the sun protection product, the skin should still appear moist (microdroplets visible on the surface). The sun protection product to be tested should be applied immediately according to the method described above.

[0247] Procedure for assessing ductility: Verification of the amount applied must be done immediately after application.

[0248] Observation under a black light is necessary, allowing the uniformity of the deposit to be visualized. This evaluation is performed immediately and then 15 minutes before UV exposure (differences may be observed at 15-minute intervals). In some cases, an improvement in the uniformity of the screening agent or the spread of the product may be observed.

[0249] Procedure for assessing SPF (in vivo) on dry and wet skin The evaluation of the sun protection factor (SPF) of the composition on dry and wet skin is carried out in vivo according to the ISO / EN 24444 method "Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2019)".

[0250] Method for preparing the composition Add phases A1, A2, and A3 sequentially to a stainless steel beaker. Place the beaker on a 55°C hot plate while stirring with a Rayneri blender. Once the phases are clear, add phase A4 to the beaker, followed by phases A5 and A6. Homogenize for several minutes until no white particles are visible. Finally, add phase A7, gradually increasing the stirring speed of the Rayneri blender. Once the phases have gelled and are free of particles, pour into the container and then start the paddle stirrer. The jacket should be set to 60-65°C to maintain the temperature.

[0251] Fatty phase B1 is weighed into a beaker, which is then placed on a hot plate until it reaches 80°C and becomes transparent. Heating is stopped, phase B2 is added and the mixture is left to homogenize for a few minutes.

[0252] Then, using a funnel, pour phase B1 into the cos while simultaneously starting the impeller and increasing the speed to 40%. Turn off the jacket heat.

[0253] After 10 minutes of emulsification, begin cooling so that the temperature reaches 55°C. Once this temperature is reached, open the COS and add phase C, which has been homogenized with a spatula. Run the blades and impeller again for 10 minutes. Add an additional 5 or 10 minutes of stirring if necessary.

[0254] Once the blend is smooth and homogenous, continue cooling until it reaches 35°C while stirring with the impeller at 30%. Open the COS and add Phase E, begin stirring (with the blade and impeller at 40%) for 5 minutes. Add another 5 minutes if necessary to ensure no deposits remain on the vessel walls or blades. Continue cooling until the temperature reaches approximately 30°C. While continuing to stir, add Phase F through the funnel over 5 minutes.

[0255] Example 1 - Composition 1 according to the present invention The following composition 1 is prepared.

[0256] [Table 1]

[0257] [Table 2]

[0258] [Table 3]

[0259] Results obtained Composition 1 according to the invention applies easily and evenly to both dry and wet skin.

[0260] Example 2 - Compositions 2-4 according to the present invention The following compositions 2 to 4 are prepared.

[0261] [Table 4]

[0262] [Table 5]

[0263] [Table 6]

[0264] [Table 7]

[0265] Results obtained The results of the dry and wet skin application tests and the in vivo SPF test are shown below.

[0266] [Table 8]

[0267] Compositions 2, 3, and 4 according to the present invention are easily applied to both dry and wet skin. The resulting spread, observed under black light, is tolerable on both dry and wet skin and provides a high level of sun protection. Composition 2, which contains a combination of carnauba wax and acrylate / dimethicone copolymer, provides the best results.

[0268] Comparative Example 3 - Compositions 5 to 7 The following compositions 5 to 7 are prepared.

[0269] [Table 9]

[0270] [Table 10]

[0271] [Table 11]

[0272] [Table 12]

[0273] [Table 13]

[0274] Results obtained The results of the dry and wet skin application tests and the in vivo SPF test are shown below.

[0275] [Table 14]

[0276] Composition 5 according to the invention is easily applied to both dry and wet skin. The resulting application, observed under black light, is uniform. A high level of sun protection is achieved.

[0277] Comparative Composition 6, which does not contain a lipophilic polymer containing monomer units of formula (A) and (B) (C12-22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer), and Comparative Composition 7, which does not contain carrageenan, are more difficult to spread on both dry and wet skin, and the resulting application, as observed under black light, is less uniform, which is reflected in less effective sun protection on both dry and wet skin.

Claims

1. A composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: a) at least one UV filter; b) at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomer units of formula (A) and (B): 【Chemistry 1】 (In the formula, R １ are each independently selected from an alkyl group or an alkenyl group; R １ At least 60% by weight of the groups are groups selected from stearyl and behenyl groups, and this weight percentage is the sum of all R groups present in the polymer. １ relative to the sum of the groups; The sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to R １ the weight ratio of the sum of all acrylate units bearing groups is in the range of 1:30 to 1:1; the sum of units A and B is at least 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the polymer; a polymer having a number average molecular weight Mn in the range of 2000 to 9000 g / mol; c) at least one carrageenan; A composition comprising:

2. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the UV filter is selected from lipophilic organic UV filters, hydrophilic organic UV filters, and inorganic UV filters.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the lipophilic organic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of cinnamic acid compounds, anthranilic acid ester compounds, salicylic acid compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds, benzophenone compounds, β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds, benzalmalonic acid ester compounds, benzimidazole derivatives, imidazoline compounds, bis-benzazolyl compounds, methylenebis(hydroxyphenyl)benzotriazole compounds, benzoxazole compounds, screening polymers and screening silicones, α-alkylstyrene dimers, 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, and mixtures thereof; preferably, salicylic acid compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds, benzophenone compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophilic organic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of a water-soluble organic UV filter and a water-dispersible organic UV filter.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the water-soluble organic UV filter is selected from benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); and salts thereof.

6. The water-dispersible organic UV filter is an aqueous dispersion of finely divided particles of methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, the average particle size of which is in the range of 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferentially in the range of 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly in the range of 0.020 to 2 μm, ｎ H ２ｎ＋１ O (C ６ H １０ O ５ ) ｘ H, where n is an integer from 8 to 16, and x is (C ６ H １０ O ５ ) an average degree of polymerization of alkylpolyglycoside units, which is in the range of 1.4 to 1.6; An aqueous dispersion of finely divided particles of methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, with an average particle size in the range of 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferentially in the range of 0.01 to 1.5 μm, more particularly in the range of 0.02 to 1 μm, containing at least one mono(C)-glycerol having a degree of polymerization of at least 5. ８ ~C ２０ ) alkyl polyglycerol esters are present in the form of aqueous dispersions; bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, having the INCI name Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, in water-dispersible form (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer Copolymer); symmetric triazine shielding agents substituted with naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups, used in finely divided form (average particle size 0.02 to 3 μm), especially in the form of an aqueous dispersion, and in particular chosen from 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine, according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

7. In the lipophilic acrylic polymer, R1 is an alkyl group, preferably C １６ ~C ２２ 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising alkyl groups, more preferentially behenyl or stearyl groups.

8. 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 70% by weight, preferentially at least 80% by weight and more preferentially at least 90% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl or stearyl groups.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, all R1 groups are stearyl groups or behenyl groups.

10. 10. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer, the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing an R1 group is in the range of from 1:15 to 1:1, preferentially in the range of from 1:10 to 1:

4.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the number average molecular weight Mn of the lipophilic acrylic polymer is in the range of 5000 to 9000 g / mol.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the melting point of said lipophilic acrylic polymer is in the range of from 40°C to 70°C, preferentially in the range of from 45°C to 67°C.

13. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl groups and the melting point of the polymer is in the range of from 40 to 60°C, preferentially in the range of from 45 to 55°C.

14. 14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl groups and the melting point of the polymer is in the range from 60°C to 70°C, preferentially in the range from 63°C to 67°C.

15. 15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic acrylic polymer is present in an active substance content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. 16. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising at least one carrageenan that comprises predominantly or exclusively the iota type.

17. 17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising at least one carrageenan that is predominantly or exclusively of the lambda type.

18. 18. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, comprising at least one carrageenan that comprises predominantly or exclusively the iota type and at least one carrageenan that comprises predominantly or exclusively the lambda type.

19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising at least one wax, preferably a hard wax, more preferentially a polar hard wax.

20. 20. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, comprising at least one wax of plant origin, such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Japan wax, a wax obtained by hydrogenating olive oil esterified with a C12 to C18 fatty chain alcohol, or rice bran wax.

21. 21. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, comprising one or more silicone copolymers obtained by copolymerizing at least one monomer of the ester type of a carboxylic acid and an alcohol, having a C6 to C30 fatty chain, with at least one monomer comprising a polyalkylsiloxane chain.

22. 22. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 21, comprising at least one silicone copolymer selected from copolymers of stearyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, and propyl methacrylate, which contain polydimethylsiloxane chains; copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and propyl methacrylate, which contain polydimethylsiloxane chains; and mixtures thereof.

23. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22, in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

24. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising applying at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23 to the surface of said keratinous materials.

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