Skincare composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an alkanediol and one or more cosmetic oils, characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic oils is (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl. The composition exhibits improved water repellency (lotus effect) and sensory properties.

Description

Detailed description of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an alkanediol and one or more cosmetic oils, characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic oils is (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl (isoamyl caprylate caprate). The composition exhibits improved water repellency (lotus effect).

[0002] Lotus leaves exhibit remarkable water repellency and self-cleaning properties. While lotuses thrive in muddy rivers and lakes, their leaves and flowers remain clean and essentially never get wet. The lotus achieves this effect by creating an extremely hydrophobic surface on its leaves and flowers. When water comes into contact with the leaves, it essentially forms spherical droplets that roll off the surface, washing away any dirt particles it comes into contact with.

[0003] Conventional methods for formulating waterproof or water-resistant cosmetic compositions rely on the use of hydrophobic film-forming polymers. However, such film-forming polymers often diminish the appeal of the product to the end consumer. This is due to sensory characteristics resulting from the oily, heavy, and sticky feel on the skin, as outlined, for example, in German Patent No. 102010063825.

[0004] Therefore, for example, in order to improve the water resistance of cosmetic compositions, there is a continuing demand for aesthetically pleasing cosmetic compositions with improved water repellency.

[0005] Surprisingly, it was found that the combined use of (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl and alkanediol significantly improved the water repellency (lotus effect) of the composition, and even enhanced its functional properties.

[0006] Accordingly, in the first embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising an alkanediol and one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one of the cosmetic oils is (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl.

[0007] Another subject of the present invention is the use of alkanediols to improve the water repellency of a cosmetic composition comprising one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one of the cosmetic oils is (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl.

[0008] In a further embodiment, the present invention relates to a method for improving the water repellency of a cosmetic composition, the method comprising the steps of: preparing a cosmetic composition containing both an alkanediol and (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl; applying the composition to the skin; forming a hydrophobic film by evaporating volatile components; and optionally evaluating the effect.

[0009] (Caprylic / Capric) Isoamyl, also known as 3-methylbutyl ester of C8-10 (even-chain length) fatty acids (EC number: 694-886-1; CAS number: 1365095-43-7), is available under the trade name Oxysmooth CP. It is obtained from sugarcane sugarcane and primarily C8 and C10 vegetable fatty acids (in a ratio of approximately 1:1, particularly in the range of 1:0.9-0.9:1). Specifically, the term (caprylic / capric) isoamyl refers to a mixture that is basically composed of isoamyl caprylate (C8) (in amounts of approximately 45-55%) and isoamyl caprate (C10) (in amounts of approximately 40-50%). The term "basically composed of" as used herein is understood to mean that the total amount of the components is ideally up to 100 weight percent. However, the possibility cannot be ruled out that small amounts of impurities, such as isoamyl caproate and / or isoamyl laurate (C12), originating from the manufacturing process, may be present in a maximum amount of up to 10%, preferably 7.5%, when measured in area percent by GC-MS analysis, i.e., in the range of 0-10 or 0-7.5%.

[0010] In all embodiments of the present invention, the (total) amount of (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is, advantageously, at least 2.5% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, most preferably at least 7.5% by weight, for example at least 10% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

[0011] In all embodiments of the present invention, the total amount of (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, more preferably 20% by weight or less, for example 15% by weight or less, based on the total amount of the composition.

[0012] More preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the amount of (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is selected from the range of 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from the range of 7.5 to 20% by weight, and most preferably from the range of 10 to 15% by weight. Further preferred ranges are selected from the ranges of 5 to 25% by weight, 5 to 20% by weight, 5 to 15% by weight, 7.5 to 25% by weight, 7.5 to 20% by weight, 7.5 to 15% by weight, 10 to 30% by weight, 10 to 25% by weight, or 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

[0013] In all embodiments, suitable alkanediols include 1,2-alkanediols and 1,3-alkanediols, particularly 1,2-butanediol, butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, and 1,3-propanediol. In all embodiments of the present invention, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, and / or pentylene glycol are preferably used. In all embodiments, most preferably, the composition comprises 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, or pentylene glycol as the alkanediol, and preferably does not contain other alkanediols. More preferably, the composition comprises butylene glycol or pentylene glycol, and even more preferably, comprises only these as the alkanediol because they particularly advantageously improve water repellency.

[0014] The (total) amount of alkanediol in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably selected from the range of 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably 2 to 6% by weight, for example, from 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition. Even more preferred ranges include 2.5 to 5% by weight or 2.5 to 4% by weight, for example, from 2.5 to 3.5% by weight.

[0015] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises, based on the total amount of the composition, 10 to 15% by weight of (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl and 2 to 5% by weight of an alkanediol.

[0016] In all embodiments of the present invention, the weight ratio of (caprylic acid / capric acid) isoamyl to alkanediol is preferably selected from the range of 1:1 to 25:1, preferably 2.5:1 to 20:1, and most preferably 4:1 to 10:1. Further preferred ranges are 3:1 to 10:1 and 4:1 to 7.5:1.

[0017] As used herein, the term "cosmetic oil" refers to a compound suitable for cosmetic use that has a melting point of less than approximately 30°C, is generally insoluble in water, and contains hydrophobic moieties, particularly hydrocarbon groups having at least six carbon atoms.

[0018] The hydrophobic portion may include a linear, cyclic, aromatic, saturated, or unsaturated group having a carbon chain with at least six carbon atoms, none of which are carbonyl carbons, and none of which are directly bonded to the hydrophilic portion (as defined below). The cosmetic oil preferably contains a fatty acid or fatty alcohol portion. Similarly, the cosmetic oil does not contain any polar groups such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, or nonionic groups, including the hydrophilic portion, such as sulfate groups, sulfonate groups, carboxylate groups, phosphate groups, ammonium groups including mono-, di-, and trialkylammonium species, pyridinium groups, imidazolinium groups, amidinium groups, poly(ethyleneiminium) groups, ammoniaalkylsulfonate groups, ammoniaalkylcarboxylate groups, or amphoacetate groups.

[0019] A particularly suitable cosmetic oil other than (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is alkyl benzoate (C 12~ C 15 ), dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dialkyl (C) tartrate 12~13) Diethylhexyl malonate, hydrogenated castor oil dimerates, triheptanoin, alkyl lactate (C 12~13 ) alkyl benzoate (C 16~17 ), propylheptyl caprylate, glyceryl tri(caprylate / caprate), diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate, octyldodecanol, ethylhexyl coconut fatty acid. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional oil other than isoamyl (caprylate / caprate), and this one or more oils are more preferably dibutyl adipate, phenethyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl benzoate (C 12~ C 15 ), caprylyl carbonate, glyceryl tri(caprylate / caprate) and mixtures thereof, and most preferably the additional oil used in combination with isoamyl (caprylate / caprate) is alkyl benzoate (C 12~ C 15 ). More preferably, the sunscreen composition according to the invention contains only isoamyl (caprylate / caprate) and alkyl benzoate (C 12~ C 15 ) as cosmetic oils.

[0020] Preferably, the total amount of one or more additional oils (in addition to isoamyl (caprylate / caprate)) is selected from the range of 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 7.5 to 20% by weight, most preferably 10 to 20% by weight.

[0021] More preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, especially the weight ratio of one or more additional oils such as alkyl benzoate (C 12~ C 15 ) to isoamyl (caprylate / caprate) is selected from the range of 5:1 to 1:5, preferably 2.5:1 to 1:2.5, most preferably 1.5:1 to 1:1.5.

[0022] The total amount of the cosmetic oil ((including isopentyl caprylate / caprate)) in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably selected from the range of 10 to 50% by weight, preferably 15 to 45% by weight, most preferably 20 to 40% by weight, for example 25 to 35% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

[0023] In a preferred embodiment, the compositios according to the present invention are emulsions.

[0024] As used herein, the term "emulsion" refers to a composition comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, particularly an O / W, W / O, Si / W, W / Si, O / W / O, W / O / W multiple or Pickering emulsion, etc.

[0025] In the emulsion according to the present invention, the amount of the oil phase (i.e., the phase containing all the cosmetic oils and fats and all the oil-soluble components of the composition) present in such an emulsion is preferably at least 25% by weight, for example, in the range of 25 to 70% by weight, preferably in the range of 30 to 60% by weight, most preferably in the range of 30 to 50% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

[0026] According to a more preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention outlined herein is an O / W emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier. The preparation of such O / W emulsions is well known to those skilled in the art and is shown in the examples.

[0027] In all embodiments of the present invention, it is more advantageous to use a phosphate ester emulsifier as the O / W emulsifier. Among the preferred phosphate ester emulsifiers, there are (C8-10) alkyl ethyl phosphate, (C9-15) alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5 phosphate, cetes-8 phosphate, cetes-10 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, (C6-10) pareth-4 phosphate, (C12-15) pareth-2 phosphate, (C12-15) pareth-3 phosphate, DEA-ceteareth-2 phosphate, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA-oles-3 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, deceth-4 phosphate, deceth-6 phosphate, and trilauryl-4 phosphate. A specific phosphate ester emulsifier according to the present invention is, for example, potassium cetyl phosphate commercially available as Amphisol® K from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Kaiseraugst.

[0028] Further preferred O / W emulsifiers according to the present invention include PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-8 dioleate, PEG-40 sorbitol oleate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-20 almond fatty acid glyceryl, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, PEG-7 olive fatty acid, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-60 almond fatty acid glyceryl, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-40 stearate, and PEG-100 stearate. G-100 contains PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, steareth-2, steareth-12, oleth-2, ceteth-2, laureth-4, oleth-10, oleth-10 / polyoxyethylene(10) oleyl ether, ceteth-10, isosteareth-20, ceteareth-20, oleth-20, steareth-20, steareth-21, ceteth-20, isoceteth-20, laureth-23, steareth-100, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying type), stearic acid, salts of stearic acid, and polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate. Other suitable emulsifiers include sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene. Furthermore, one or more synthetic polymers can be used as emulsifiers. For example, (PVP / eicosene) copolymer, (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer, (acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate) copolymer, (PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol) copolymer, (PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol) copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] Other particularly suitable types of O / W emulsifiers include, for example, nonionic self-emulsifying systems derived from olive oil, known as (INCI name) cetearyl olive oil fatty acid and sorbitan olive oil fatty acid (chemical composition: sorbitan ester and cetearyl ester of olive oil fatty acid), which are sold under the trade name OLIVEM 1000.

[0030] More preferably are commercially available polymer emulsifiers, such as hydrophobized polyacrylic acids like (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymers, which are commercially available from Noveon under the trade names Pemulen® TR-1 and TR-2.

[0031] Polyalkylene glycol ethers, such as Brij 72 (polyoxyethylene(2) stearyl ether) or Brij 721 (polyoxyethylene(21) stearyl ether), available from Croda, are also suitable.

[0032] The particularly advantageous O / W emulsifiers according to the present invention are polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, lauryl glucoside (and) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, and glyceryl sterate cytrate. One or more of the following: Citrate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucoside; polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate; cetearyl olivate (and) sorbitan olivate; arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside; cetearyl alcohol (and) coconut oil alkyl glucoside; coconut oil alkyl glucoside (and) coconut alcohol; PEG-100 stearate (and) glyceryl stearate; sodium stearoyl glutamate; steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-25, steareth-2, ceteareth-25, and ceteareth-6 (all listed by their INCI names).

[0033] According to the present invention, the composition particularly preferably contains potassium cetyl phosphate as an emulsifier.

[0034] At least one O / W or Si / W emulsifier, conforming to all the definitions and preferences set forth herein, is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, particularly in the range of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition, for example, in the range of 0.5 to 4% by weight, for example, in the range of 1 to 4% by weight, 1 to 3% by weight, or 2 to 3% by weight.

[0035] A suitable W / O or W / Si emulsifier according to the present invention is a polyglycerol ester or diester of a fatty acid (i.e., a polymer in which fatty acids are bonded by esterification with polyglycerin), for example, one commercially available from Evonik as Isolan GPS [INCI name (diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacic acid) polyglyceryl-4 (i.e., a diester of a mixture of isostearate, polyhydroxystearate and sebacic acid with polyglycerin-4)], or Dehymuls available from Cognis. These include PGPH (INCI: polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate), PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol ester of oleic acid / isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 hexalicinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, magnesium stearate, sodium stearate, potassium laurate, potassium ricinoleate, sodium coconut fatty acid, sodium beef tallow fatty acid, potassium castor oil fatty acid, sodium oleate, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable W / Si emulsifiers are lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and / or PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and / or cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone and / or PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer and / or PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone. At least one W / O emulsifier is used in an amount preferably about 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0036] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention more advantageously comprises at least one surfactant, such as one selected from the group of monoglycerides and diglycerides and / or fatty alcohols. The surfactant is generally used in an amount selected from the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, most specifically from the range of 1 to 5% by weight or 2 to 4% by weight. Particularly preferred surfactants are selected from the list of alkyl alcohols such as cetyl alcohol (Lorol C16, Lanette 16), cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O), stearyl alcohol (Lanette 18), behenyl alcohol (Lanette 22), polyhydroxystearic acid, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl myristate (Estol 3650), hydrogenated cocoglycerides (Lipocire Na10), and mixtures thereof.

[0037] In all embodiments of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous that the composition further contains cetearyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol, preferably both, in a total amount of 1 to 5% by weight, preferably 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

[0038] In a more advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably comprises a preservative and / or preservative enhancer selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, and p-hydroxyacetophenone; more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, hexylglycerin, glyceryl caprylate, and mixtures thereof; most preferably selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin and mixtures thereof. If preservatives or preservative enhancers are present, they are preferably used in amounts of 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, and most preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition, for example, in the range of 0.5% to 1.5% by weight or 0.75 to 1.25% by weight.

[0039] In particularly advantageous embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin, preferably phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

[0040] This cosmetic composition may further contain commonly used UVA, UVB, or broad-wavelength UV shielding substances. Such compositions are generally referred to as sunscreens.

[0041] In certain advantageous embodiments, the composition according to the present invention further comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (INCI, also referred to herein as BEMT) as a UV shielding agent, for the reason that, as shown in the examples, the addition of this further improves the water repellency of the composition.

[0042] BEMT is also known as 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (chemical name) or bemotoridinol (INN). BEMT acts as a UV filter with a broad spectrum that absorbs not only UVA but also UVB rays. It has two absorption peaks at 310 nm and 340 nm. BEMT has been proposed for use in sun care products, day care products, alphabetical products such as BB creams, and whitening products.

[0043] In all embodiments of the present invention, the amount of BEMT in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is advantageously selected from the range of 0.4 to 10% by weight, preferably from the range of 0.4 to 9% by weight, 0.4 to 8% by weight, 0.4 to 7% by weight, 0.4 to 6% by weight, 0.4 to 5% by weight, 0.4 to 4% by weight, 0.4 to 3% by weight, 0.5 to 3% by weight, 0.8 to 9% by weight, 0.8 to 8% by weight, 0.8 to 7% by weight, 0.8 to 6% by weight, 0.8 to 5% by weight, 0.8 to 4% by weight, or 0.8 to 3% by weight, for example, from the range of 1 to 5% by weight, 1 to 3% by weight, 2 to 5% by weight, 2 to 4% by weight, or 2 to 3% by weight.

[0044] Preferably, the weight ratio of (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl to BEMT is selected from the range of 1:1 to 25:1, preferably 2.5:1 to 20:1, and most preferably 4:1 to 10:1. Further preferred ranges are 3:1 to 10:1 and 4:1 to 7.5:1.

[0045] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the weight ratio of alkanediol to BEMT is selected from the range of 0.5:5 to 5:0.5, preferably 0.5:3 to 3:0.5, and most preferably 5:1 to 1:1. Further preferred ranges are 4:1 to 1:1, 3:1 to 1:1, and 2:1 to 1:1. Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the alkanediol is used in excess of the amount of BEMT, i.e., in a weight ratio greater than 1.

[0046] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the composition further comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and / or diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate (DHHB).

[0047] The amount of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, which is commercially available as PARSOL® 1789, in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably selected from the range of 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably 2 to 6% by weight, for example, from the range of 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

[0048] For example, the amount of diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate, which is commercially available as Uvinul A plus, in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably selected from the range of 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably 2 to 6% by weight, for example, from the range of 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

[0049] In one embodiment, preferably, the composition contains BEMT and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, preferably in the absence of DHHB, and more preferably, the UV filter consists of only these.

[0050] In other embodiments, the composition preferably comprises BEMT and diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate, preferably in the absence of butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, and more preferably, the UV filter consists of these alone.

[0051] Since the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are intended for topical application, it is well understood that the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention include a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e., a medium compatible with skin, mucous membranes, and keratinous substances such as keratin fibers. In particular, a physiologically acceptable medium is a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0052] As used herein, the term “cosmetically acceptable carrier” refers to all carriers and / or excipients and / or diluents conventionally used in topical cosmetic compositions, particularly skincare formulations, and includes, for example, cosmetic oils.

[0053] The exact amount of the carrier will depend on the actual amounts of the UV shielding material and all other optional components (e.g., other active ingredients) that a person skilled in the art would classify as different from the carrier.

[0054] In advantageous embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises the carrier in an amount of 50% to 99%, preferably 60% to 98%, more preferably 70% to 98%, particularly 80% to 95%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0055] In certain advantageous embodiments, the carrier further comprises water in an amount of at least 30% by weight, more preferably at least 40% by weight, most preferably at least 45% by weight, and particularly 50-90% by weight. Further preferred ranges are 50-75% by weight, 50-70% by weight, and 55-65% by weight.

[0056] In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition or a pharmaceutical composition, and is preferably a cosmetic (non-therapeutic) composition.

[0057] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is applied particularly to the keratinized tissue of mammals, such as human skin or human scalp and hair.

[0058] The term "cosmetic composition" as used in this application is defined in Roempp Lexikon Chemie, 10 th Cosmetic compositions as defined under the heading "Kosmetika" in edition 1997, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, and A. Domsch, "Cosmetic Compositions", Verlag fuer chemische Industrie (ed. H. Ziolkowsky), 4 thThis refers to the cosmetic composition disclosed in edition, 1992.

[0059] The present invention provides preferred cosmetic compositions, skincare formulations, decorative formulations, and functional formulations.

[0060] Examples of skincare formulations include, in particular, photoprotective formulations, anti-aging formulations, formulations for the treatment of photoaging, body lotions, body gels, treatment creams, skin protective ointments, aromatic ointments (balms), moisturizing gels, moisturizing sprays, moisturizers for the face and / or body, skin tanning formulations (i.e., compositions for artificial / sunless tanning and / or browning of human skin), such as self-tanning creams and skin whitening formulations.

[0061] Examples of decorative formulations include, in particular, mascara or dry and wet makeup formulations.

[0062] Examples of functional formulations include, but are not limited to, cosmetics or pharmaceutical compositions containing active ingredients such as hormone preparations, vitamin preparations, plant extract preparations, anti-aging preparations, and / or antimicrobial (antibacterial or antifungal) preparations.

[0063] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a photoprotective preparation (sun care product, sunscreen) such as an ultraviolet-protective emulsion, ultraviolet-protective lotion, ultraviolet-protective cream, sunblock or topical application product, or a day care cream with or without an SPF (ultraviolet protection factor) indication. Of particular interest are ultraviolet-protective creams, ultraviolet-protective lotions and ultraviolet-protective emulsions.

[0064] The compositions of the present invention (including carriers) may contain conventional auxiliaries and additives such as preservatives / antioxidants, fatty substances / oils, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, defoamers, fragrances and other aesthetic components, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basicizing agents, dyes, colorants / colorants, abrasives, absorbents, chelating agents and / or metal ion sequestering agents, essential oils, skin sensation stimulants, astringents, pigments, or any other components commonly incorporated into such compositions.

[0065] According to the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may further include, for example, ingredients for skin whitening, sun protection, and treatment of hyperpigmentation; ingredients for preventing or reducing acne, wrinkles, fine lines, atrophy and / or inflammation; chelating agents and / or metal ion sequestering agents; anti-cellulite and slimming agents (e.g., phytanic acid), firming agents, moisturizing agents and activators, self-tanning agents, sedatives, and agents for improving elasticity and skin barrier properties, as well as carriers and / or excipients or diluents conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

[0066] Unless otherwise specified, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are suitable for the excipients, additives, diluents, etc., described below. The required amounts of cosmetic and dermatological auxiliaries and additives can be easily determined by those skilled in the art based on the desired product.

[0067] Additional components may be added to the oily phase, the aqueous phase, or separately, if deemed appropriate. The method of addition can be easily adapted by those skilled in the art.

[0068] Examples of cosmetic excipients, diluents, auxiliaries, additives, and active ingredients commonly used in the skincare industry and suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are, for example, listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook by the Personal Care Product Council (http: / / www.personalcarecouncil.org / ), which is available from the online INFO BASE (http: / / online.personalcarecouncil.org / jsp / Home.jsp).

[0069] In this specification, useful cosmetic active ingredients may, in some cases, provide more than one benefit or act through more than one mechanism of action.

[0070] Naturally, those skilled in the art will select the above-mentioned optional additional components, auxiliaries, diluents, and additives, and / or their amounts, taking into consideration that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the combinations according to the present invention are not adversely affected or substantially adversely affected by the one or more additives envisioned.

[0071] In another advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is free from parabens, benzethonium chloride, piroctone olamine, lauroylarginat, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone, bronopol, benzalkonium chloride, formaldehyde-releasing compounds, salicylic acid, triclosan, DMDM ​​hydantoin, chlorphenesin, and IPBC (iodide propynyl butylcarbamate).

[0072] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the composition does not contain octocrylene (CAS number: 6197-30-4).

[0073] In all embodiments of the present invention, the term "octocrylene-free" means that octocrylene is not intentionally added to the composition, i.e., this compound is undetectable by standard analytical means such as HPLC.

[0074] In another advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention further does not contain oxybenzone and / or methylbenzylidene camphor.

[0075] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain one or more emollients that soothe and soften the skin. Examples of emollients include silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), vegetable oils (grape seed, sesame seed, jojoba, etc.), butters (cocoa butter, sesame butter), and petrolatum derivatives (petrolatum, mineral oil).

[0076] In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the present invention includes limonene, citral, linalool, α-isomethyl ionone, geraniol, citronellol, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol, 7-acetyl-1,1,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetraline, diester adipates, cinnamal, amyl salicylate, α-amyl cinnamaldehyde, α-methyl ionone, butylphenyl methylpropional, cinnamal, amyl cinnamyl alcohol, anise alcohol, benzoin, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, benzyl salicylate, bergamot It may contain one or more aromatic substances selected from the following: citrus oil, bitter orange oil, butylphenyl methylpropional, cardamom seed oil, cedrol, cinnamal, cinnamyl alcohol, citronellyl methylcrotate, citrus oil, coumarin, diethyl succinate, ethyl linalool, eugenol, Ebernia furfrasea extract, hornwort extract, farnesol, guaiac wood oil, hexyl cinnamal, hexyl salicylate, hydroxycitronellal, lavender oil, lemon oil, linalyl acetate, mandarin orange oil, PCA menthyl, methylhexadecane, nutmeg kernel oil, rosemary oil, sweet orange oil, terpineol, tonka bean oil, triethyl citrate, and vanillin.

[0077] The compositions of the present invention may, advantageously, include humectants. The humectants are compounds or mixtures of compounds that, after the cosmetic composition is applied to or spread on the skin surface, reduce water loss from the stratum corneum (determined experimentally, for example, by transepidermal water loss (TEWL)), and / or have a favorable effect on the hydration of the stratum corneum, and / or impart to the cosmetic composition the quality of actually maintaining a hydrated state.

[0078] Non-limiting examples of humectants advantageous for use in the present invention include glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, particularly sodium lactate, biosaccharide gum-1, wild soybean, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and urea. It is particularly advantageous to use high molecular weight humectants from the group of polysaccharides that are water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan, and / or fucose-rich polysaccharides, the of which are registered in the chemical abstract under registration number 178463-23-5 and are available, for example, from SOLABIA SA under the name Fucogel® 1000. Humidifiers can also be advantageously used, for example, as anti-wrinkle active ingredients to protect the skin from the types of changes caused by skin aging.

[0079] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may, while not essential, advantageously further include fillers that have the effect of further improving the functional and cosmetic properties of the formulation, for example, by evoking or emphasizing a velvety or silky feel. Advantageous fillers in the sense of the present invention include starch and starch derivatives (e.g., tapioca starch, cross-linked starch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch octenyl succinate, etc.), Valvance pigments that essentially exhibit neither UV-blocking nor coloring effects (e.g., Valvance Touch 210 or 250, etc.) and / or Aerosils® and / or talc and / or polyethylene, nylon and dimethylsilylated silica.

[0080] The aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention may, in each case, individually or in combination, include, for example, commonly used cosmetic additives, such as alcohols, especially those with a low number of carbon atoms, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, or polyols and their ethers with a low number of carbon atoms, preferably glycerol, electrolytes, self-tanning agents, and, in particular, one or more thickeners, which may be selected from the group of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicate, polysaccharides and / or derivatives thereof, such as hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and in particular, thickeners which may be selected from the group of polyacrylates, preferably from the group called Carbopol (e.g., Carbopol of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, and 5984), etc. Further advantageous thickeners according to the present invention are those whose INCI name is (Acrylates / Alkyl Acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer (e.g., Pemuren TR 1, Pemuren TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from Noveon), as well as Aristoflex AVC (INCI: (Acryloyldimethyltaurate Ammonium / VP) copolymer) and Simugel NS (INCI: (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate) copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60). Further preferred thickeners in all embodiments of the present invention are biopolymers such as microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, and Sphingomonas culture extract.

[0081] According to the present invention, preferably the composition comprises one or more thickeners selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate (C10-C30) polymer, (hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate) copolymer and / or vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecane copolymer, preferably xanthan gum and / or (hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate) copolymer, and most preferably both xanthan gum and (hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate) copolymer.

[0082] The (total) amount of one or more thickening agents in the composition according to the present invention is preferably selected from the range of 0.1 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, most preferably 0.1 to 0.1% by weight, for example, from the range of 0.25 to 1% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

[0083] In another embodiment, the SPF of the composition may be at least 15, preferably at least 20, and most preferably at least 30.

[0084] Advantageously, according to the present invention, the composition of the present invention may further contain a film-forming agent.

[0085] Particularly advantageous, the further film-forming agent is selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and polymers mainly composed of (capryloyl glycerin / sebacic acid) copolymer, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate dimer dilinoleate and / or ethylcellulose.

[0086] For example, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as (PVP / hexadecene) copolymer and (PVP / eicosene) copolymer, available from GAF Chemicals Corporation under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220, are particularly preferred.

[0087] As further polymeric film-forming agents, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, available from National Starch and Chemical Corp. under the trade name Flexan 130, and / or polyisobutene, available from Rewo under the trade name Rewopal PIB1000, are also advantageous. Further examples of suitable polymers include polyacrylamide (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohol, PVP, PVP / VA copolymer, polyglycol, and acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymer (Dermacryl 79). It is equally advantageous to use hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (INCI), available from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the name Risocast DA-H, or PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, available from Croda Chemicals under the trade name Crodamol STS.

[0088] The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention generally have a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably in the range of 4 to 8, and most preferably in the range of 4 to 7. This pH can be easily adjusted as needed using a suitable acid, such as citric acid, or a base, such as NaOH, according to standard methods in the art.

[0089] The amount of topical sunscreen composition applied to the skin is not critically important and can be easily adjusted by those skilled in the art. Preferably, this amount is selected from the range of 0.1 to 3 mg / cm² of skin, for example, preferably 0.1 to 2 mg / cm² of skin, and most preferably 0.5 to 2 mg / cm² of skin.

[0090] According to the present invention, the sunscreen is used to protect the skin from aging (particularly from skin aging caused by UV rays), and can also be used as an ultraviolet protection composition.

[0091] Finally, the subject matter of the present invention is a method for cosmetically treating keratinous substances, particularly skin, and the compositions defined herein are applied to such keratinous substances, particularly skin. When a UV-blocking substance is present in the composition, the method is particularly suitable for protecting the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, such as sunburn and / or photoaging, while avoiding florescence stains on garments and / or clothing.

[0092] The following examples are provided to further illustrate the compositions and effects of the present invention. These examples are illustrative and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention in any way.

[0093] [Experimental Department] [Composition] The formulations (O / W emulsions) outlined in Table 1 were prepared according to standard methods in the relevant art.

[0094] [(A) Water repellency test] 1) Place a 40mg drop of the formulation onto a Schoenberg 2mue plate (5cm x 5cm) and spread the formulation evenly. 2) Keep this plate at 40°C for 15 minutes. 3) Place 50 microliters of water droplets on the plate, leave it for 1 minute, and then take a photograph. 4) Measure the diameter of the droplet. 5) Measure 3 drops of each compound.

[0095] [Table 1]

[0096] As can be seen from the results in Table 1, the composition according to the present invention exhibits improved water repellency compared to the control formulation.

[0097] [Table 2]

[0098] As can be seen from the results in Table 2, the water repellency is further improved by adding BEMT, BMDBM, and DHHB.

[0099] [(B) Sensory evaluation] All sensory evaluations were conducted using the emulsions shown in Tables 1 and 2. The sensory characteristics of the parameters outlined in Table 3 were assessed using a descriptive sensory evaluation method performed by well-trained panelists. 50 μl of each emulsion from Tables 1 and 2 was placed on a single spot on the forearm surface. After application, the product was rubbed in until absorbed into the skin. Parameters were evaluated immediately after the rubbing stage. The results are shown in Table 3.

[0100] [Table 3]

[0101] As can be seen from Table 3, the compositions according to the present invention have a superior feel and / or appearance on the skin compared to the control products, resulting in an overall improvement in sensory appeal.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising an alkanediol and one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one of the cosmetic oils is (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of alkanediol is selected from a range of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably 2 to 6% by weight, for example, 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl in the composition is selected from the range of 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 20% by weight, and most preferably 10 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight ratio of (caprylic acid / capric acid) isoamyl to alkanediol is selected from the range of 2.5:1 to 20:1, preferably from 4:1 to 10:

1.

5. Alkyl benzoate (C １２～ C １５ ), dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dialkyl tartrate (C １２～１３ ), diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate, hydrogenated castor oil dimerates, triheptanoin, alkyl lactate (C １２～１３ ), alkyl benzoate (C １６～１７ The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein there is at least one further cosmetic oil selected from the group consisting of propylheptyl caprylate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate, octyldodecanol, and ethylhexyl coconut oil fatty acid.

6. The aforementioned at least one further cosmetic oil is alkyl benzoate (C １２～ C １５ The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the weight ratio of at least one further cosmetic oil to (capric acid / caprylic acid) isoamyl is selected from the range of 5:1 to 1:5, preferably 2.5:1 to 1:2.5, and most preferably 1.5:1 to 1:1.

5.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is an O / W emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier, preferably in the presence of a cetyl phosphate emulsifier, most preferably in the presence of potassium cetyl phosphate.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, wherein the amount of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine in the composition is selected from the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, and most preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and / or diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising one or more preservatives / preservative enhancers selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition further comprises one or more of behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and glyceryl stearate, preferably one or more of behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol, most preferably cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

14. Use of alkanediols to improve the water repellency of cosmetic compositions containing (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl.

15. A method for improving the water repellency of a cosmetic composition, the method comprising the steps of: preparing a cosmetic composition containing both an alkanediol and (caprylic / capric acid) isoamyl; applying the composition to the skin; forming a hydrophobic film by evaporating volatile components; and optionally evaluating the effect.

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