A colored oily cosmetic composition comprising at least one vegetable oil, silica, and organically modified hectorite.

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, by mass, a) at least 50% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon oil, of which at least 10% by mass is at least one vegetable oil, b) silica, c) at least 0.5% by mass of organically modified hectorite, and d) at least one pigment. The present invention also relates to the use of the above-defined cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup, particularly as a foundation or blush.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, particularly the field of cosmetics specialized for both skin care and makeup, and more specifically to the field of liquid anhydrous cosmetic compositions such as colored oils.

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of the skin tone product type containing pigments, dedicated to makeup and skin care. More specifically, it relates to a composition that is fluid, has good covering properties, is light and not greasy. The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for skin care and / or makeup.

Background Art

[0003] Makeup compositions such as foundations, for example, are used to beautify and even out the skin tone, or to hide skin defects or irregularities such as stains, hyperpigmentation, pores, fine lines, and wrinkles. Different galenical forms are commercially available to provide different textures and / or comfort to consumers. For example, foundations can be in the form of powders, solid sticks, creams, balms, or liquids, in emulsion or anhydrous form, depending on the desired texture, fluidity, or viscosity for a given application, the expected makeup result, or the desired functionality. The anhydrous, particularly fluid liquid form provides a new texture different from conventional foundations and generally improves spread and slip compared to emulsions. In addition, anhydrous compositions generally offer advantages with respect to preservation because they can limit or even eliminate the use of preservatives, which are often synthetic and criticized for being allergenic or irritating.

[0004] At the same time, the foundation composition must spread easily and evenly, adhere well to the skin, and uniformly disperse the powders and pigments to enable full coverage and good retention. Skin-toned products must also have an appealing feel, such as sufficient glide during application, an application or "work time" that is neither too long nor too short, allowing the composition to function during application and the color to be applied evenly, and a non-greasy, non-sticky feel. Finally, these compositions must be stable over time. However, compositions with a high pigment content generally exhibit instability related to pigment migration, sedimentation, or aggregation, and may be more difficult to stabilize without substantially impairing their functional properties.

[0005] At the same time, consumers are seeking makeup products, especially skin-toned products, that also offer true skincare benefits, such as serums. Serum-type products are designed, for example, to nourish, moisturize, and protect the skin, or to treat the skin, improve its appearance, and / or reduce the signs of skin aging. They are generally fluid and can be applied to the skin very easily and quickly.

[0006] At the same time, consumers are seeking products that are more environmentally conscious, especially those with high concentrations of natural and / or naturally derived ingredients and / or eco-designed products, that is, products whose design and development take into account environmental impacts (raw materials and their manufacturing processes, sustainable management of natural ingredients, product logistics and distribution, packaging, biodegradability, etc.). However, the use of naturally derived ingredients has a significant impact not only on the sensory properties of cosmetics but also on their stability and homogeneity.

[0007] All of these prerequisites are real challenges, as consumers still demand so much regarding the sensory quality and performance of products. In particular, consumers continue to demand a texture that is lightweight, easy to apply to the skin, and pleasant to the touch (especially one that is not sticky or greasy).

[0008] Liquid compositions containing a high percentage of non-volatile oils, including vegetable oils, are known to provide skincare activity, as well as skin softening, nourishing, and comforting properties. However, oils also add shine, which is undesirable for makeup primers that aim for a matte finish, and generally result in a greasy, sticky feel upon application. In addition, product retention on the skin generally becomes insufficient over time. Vegetable oils have an undesirable effect on the functionality of the composition, particularly by providing a heavier, greasier texture, and are often offset by the use of mineral oils or synthetic materials such as silicones; therefore, the vegetable oil content is often limited in this type of product. Other drawbacks include, for example, a characteristic odor and the risk of oxidation over time (malodor). Finally, in liquid formulations with high oil content, it remains difficult to keep pigments and particulate matter suspended, as pigments and particulate matter tend to settle and clog at the bottom of the bottle over time, forming blocks ("cakes") that are very difficult to redisperse.

[0009] This clogging problem is addressed in detail in International Publication No. 2017 / 050699. The solution found involves adding a lipophilic polymer selected from MQ-type silicone resins, silsesquioxane resins grafted with carbosiloxane dendrimers, and / or vinyl polymers. However, these are silicones that have environmental impacts.

[0010] Other liquid and anhydrous coloring compositions, falling between skincare and makeup, are commercially available. For example, oily natural foundations containing vegetable oils and pigments are known, often in the form of bottles that are shaken before use. However, these products often have a fairly heavy texture, are quite thick when applied, and are not easily spreadable. Furthermore, some products offer relatively insufficient coverage, others leave a greasy feeling on the skin, and still others have a dry texture, either due to low levels of naturally derived ingredients or a low vegetable oil content. Finally, to overcome the problem of clogging at the bottom of the bottle, some products require a stirring ball inside the bottle to more easily homogenize the composition before use.

[0011] Therefore, there is still a need for highly natural, particularly silicone-free, liquid skin-toned cosmetic compositions. In particular, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that, for example, contain at least 90% naturally derived ingredients, preferably at least 95%, according to the NF ISO 16128 standard, and maintain high standards of functionality and stability.

[0012] Furthermore, there is a need for liquid skin-toned cosmetic compositions that provide true skincare, particularly thanks to their high vegetable oil content. Specifically, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that contain at least 10% vegetable oil while simultaneously maintaining high standards of functionality and stability.

[0013] Furthermore, there is still a need for a colored liquid cosmetic composition that has good spreadability, sufficient "acting time," uniform coverage on the skin, and natural makeup results, as well as good retention, and that functions well to even out skin tone and correct imperfections.

[0014] Furthermore, there is a need for a colored liquid cosmetic composition that possesses good sensory properties, and in particular is easy to apply and spread, does not hinder application, is not sticky, has a dry feel, and has a light texture that does not leave a greasy feeling.

[0015] At the same time, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that have good stability over time, in particular, cosmetic compositions that remain stable throughout the storage period of the product up to several months after opening by the end user. In particular, there is a need for high-oil-content liquid cosmetic compositions in which pigments and particulate matter do not aggregate or clog, without the need for silicone resin or stirring beads to break down and redisperse pigment blocks.

[0016] Remarkably, the applicant has proposed a novel cosmetic composition that solves all of these problems. [Overview of the Initiative]

[0017] According to a first aspect, the object of the present invention is an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, with respect to the total mass of the composition, a) at least 50% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon oil, of which at least 10% by mass is at least one vegetable oil, b) Silica, c) at least 0.5 mass% of organically modified hectorite, and d) A cosmetic composition comprising at least one pigment.

[0018] Advantageously, the present invention relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition, wherein, relative to the total weight of the composition, a) at least 50% by weight of at least one hydrocarbon oil, wherein at least 10% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, b) Silica, c) 0.5% to 3% by weight of organically modified hectorite, and d) relating to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 7% by weight of a pigment(s).

[0019] After extensive research, the inventors have demonstrated that it is possible to provide a high-performance, functional, and time-stable liquid cosmetic composition with a high content of plant oils and naturally derived ingredients, without requiring silicone or mixed beads in the bottle.

[0020] The composition according to the invention is an anhydrous liquid. More specifically, the composition has a fluid texture that spreads easily on the skin with good slip and uniform pigment distribution, providing sufficient and natural covering power to even out the skin tone and hide skin defects. Furthermore, the composition according to the invention leaves a natural matte skin color without imparting a shiny or greasy effect.

[0021] Surprisingly, a specific combination of the highlighted ingredients has specific sensory properties and gradually changes from a fine, light oily feeling upon application to a dry, powdery feel without leaving a feeling of an oily residue film on the skin.

[0022] Surprisingly, the combination according to the invention avoids pigment clogging phenomena and achieves a very fluid texture, such as that of a beauty essence, despite the presence of modified hectorite that tends to gel the oil phase. Thus, the combination according to the invention enables good pigment redispersion without the need for silicone resins or stirring beads.

[0023] The composition according to the invention is in the form of a two-phase dispersion (two-phase), particularly in the form of a dispersion of powders in an oil phase. This composition is suitable for topical application to the skin. This composition can be used particularly for skin care and / or makeup. For example, the composition can be used as a skin care product, such as a facial care beauty essence, as a nourishing oil, or as a protective product, such as an antioxidant, a stain prevention agent, or a sunscreen. The composition according to the invention can be used as a product for facial makeup, particularly as a skin color product. The composition according to the invention can be used, for example, as a foundation, a skin color base, or a blush.

[0024] Thus, the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above as a makeup product, preferably as a foundation, a skin color base, or a blush.

Mode for Carrying Out the Invention

[0025] The general terms used in this specification are defined below.

[0026] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".

[0027] The expression "comprising" includes the expression "consisting of".

[0028] The expression "from...to..." must be understood as including the endpoints.

[0029] The expressions "between... and...", "less than", or "greater than" should be understood as excluding the boundaries.

[0030] The name "INCI" refers to the name of a cosmetic ingredient according to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, a "cosmetic composition" refers to a composition suitable for topical application. A cosmetic composition includes a carrier acceptable as a cosmetic, i.e., a carrier compatible with the skin. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a skin care and / or makeup product. The cosmetic composition may further include one or more additives including an active ingredient, a skin softener, and a fragrance. The cosmetic composition may have moisturizing, soothing, and / or protective properties for the skin.

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, "anhydrous composition" means a composition having a water content of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more specifically less than 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. More specifically, no water is added during the preparation of the composition, and the water content corresponds to residual water provided by the components constituting the composition.

[0033] The term "liquid" characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). This means that, in contrast to so-called "solid" compositions, the composition can flow under its own weight. More specifically, the "liquid" compositions according to the present invention are not graspable, i.e., cannot be picked up with fingers, and flow immediately under their own weight. Therefore, the term "liquid" in the sense of the present invention excludes "cream" type compositions or compositions generally packaged in bottles. The compositions according to the present invention are preferably packaged in bottles. More specifically, the compositions according to the present invention can be taken up using a pipette. Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention contain less than 0.5% wax, or more preferably no wax. This makes it possible to obtain a liquid composition within the meaning of the present invention (because wax adds viscosity to the composition). Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention do not contain gelling agents or thickeners other than organically modified hectorite or silica. This makes it possible to obtain a liquid composition within the meaning of the present invention.

[0034] The compositions according to the present invention are preferably fluids. For the purposes of the present invention, “fluid” means a low-viscosity liquid composition. For example, the viscosity of a composition according to the present invention can be measured using a Brookfield LV viscometer at a speed of 100 rpm with an M63 mobile or at a speed of 100 rpm with an M62 mobile. Both methods are suitable for measuring “low” viscosity within the scope of the meaning of the present invention.

[0035] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 5At Pa, the viscosity is at most 3000 MPa.s., preferably at most 2500 MPa.s., more preferably at most 1500 MPa.s., and most preferably at most 1000 MPa.s., measured using, for example, a Brookfield LV viscometer (with an M63 mobile at a speed of 100 rpm or revolutions per minute). Viscosity is measured after the preparation of the anhydrous composition, after storage in an oven at 20°C for 24 hours, and after homogenization by shaking the bottle.

[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 5 At Pa, the viscosity is at least 200 MPa.s., preferably at least 300 MPa.s., and more preferably at least 400 MPa.s., as measured using, for example, a Brookfield LV viscometer (using an M63 mobile at a speed of 100 rpm). Viscosity is measured after the preparation of the anhydrous composition, after storage in an oven at 20°C for 24 hours, and after homogenization by shaking the bottle.

[0037] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention is at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 5 At Pa, the viscosity is measured using a Brookfield LV viscometer (using an M63 mobile at a speed of 100 rpm) in the range of 200 to 3000 MPa.s., preferably 200 to 2000 MPa.s., particularly 300 to 1500 MPa.s., and even better 400 to 1000 MPa.s.

[0038] Alternatively, for compositions according to the present invention that are too fluid to measure viscosity using the above method, a Brookfield LV viscometer equipped with an M62 mobile at a speed of 100 rpm (or revolutions per minute) may be used.

[0039] Advantageously, the compositions according to the present invention contain at least 90% naturally derived components, preferably at least 95% naturally derived components. Here, the proportion of naturally derived components is calculated according to the principles of the NF ISO 16128 standard. Surprisingly, the specific combination of components highlighted by the inventors makes it possible to obtain compositions having a high level of naturally derived components while combining the sensory, performance, and stability properties of silicone-containing compositions.

[0040] For the purposes of this invention, “natural” components refer to components (or substances) that are naturally occurring (obtained from plants, animals, microorganisms, or minerals), untreated, or obtained solely from physical processes. For example, components may be extracted and / or treated by mechanical or gravitational means, by dissolution in water, by maceration, by water extraction, by distillation, by grinding, by pressure, by suspension, by sedimentation, by filtration, etc. The naturalness index of a natural component, as determined according to the standard NF ISO n°16128 (or “Natural Origin Index”), is 1 (100% natural component). Examples of natural components include water, plant extracts using natural solvents (water or other natural solvents), parts of plants or seeds, vegetable oils, mineral components, etc.

[0041] For the purposes of this invention, “naturally derived” components are defined as extracted and / or chemically processed natural components that have undergone a limited number of minor chemical changes. These chemical changes and processes can be carried out according to the principles of green chemistry (as opposed to petrochemical processes involving petroleum derivatives), as enumerated, for example, in standard NF ISO n° 16128. The naturalness index of “naturally derived” components, calculated according to standard NF ISO n° 16128, is greater than 0.5 (i.e., having a proportion greater than 50% of the molecular mass of the natural origin).

[0042] The term "naturally derived" ingredients include the "natural" and "naturally originated" ingredients defined above. The naturalness index of naturally originated ingredients, calculated according to the NF ISOn°16128 standard, is greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1. In contrast, synthetic ingredients or those primarily derived from fossil fuels have a naturalness index of 0. Other ingredients have an index between 0 and 0.5 and are not considered to be of natural origin.

[0043] Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention are silicone-free. For the purposes of the present invention, “silicone” means organosilicon polymers or oligomers (i.e., containing carbon-silicon bonds). In particular, these are compounds comprising repeating main units in which silicon atoms are bonded together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bonds), and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups are bonded to the silicon atoms via carbon atoms. These compounds may have linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structures and are obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes. The term “silicone” also includes silanes, particularly alkylsilanes, necessary for their preparation. Examples of silicones include silicone oils (especially polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS or organopolysiloxanes such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone, and phenylened silicones), silicone resins (e.g., MQ-type such as alkylsiloxysilicates), silsesquioxane resins (or alkylsilsesquioxanes), carbosiloxane dendrimers, and derivatives thereof.

[0044] Unless otherwise specified, for the purposes of the present invention, "does not contain" means a mass of a substance that is 0.3% or less, preferably 0.2% or less, more preferably 0.1% or less, and more preferably 0.05% or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0045] The composition according to the present invention comprises an oil phase (particularly vegetable oil). More specifically, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a suspension of pigments dispersed in the oil phase.

[0046] oil: The composition according to the present invention contains at least 50% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon oil, with at least 10% by mass of at least one vegetable oil, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0047] Vegetable oils may contain fatty acids (including omega-9, omega-6, and omega-3), natural antioxidants (tocopherol or vitamin E), vitamins (vitamin E, vitamin F), sterols (or plant sterols), etc., so a high content of vegetable oil(s) has the advantage of providing substantial nutritional properties to the skin. In addition, vegetable oils are natural. On the other hand, vegetable oils are generally detrimental to the functionality, particularly contributing to a greasier, heavier texture, and are often corrected by using them in low percentages or in combination with synthetic materials such as mineral oil or silicone. The combination according to the present invention makes it possible to use a high percentage of vegetable oil(s) without impairing the functionality of the composition and without requiring the use of mineral oil or silicone.

[0048] "Oil" refers to "fatty compounds" that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 105 Pa, 760 mmHg).

[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil that is essentially or entirely composed of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, and does not contain silicon atoms or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon oils may contain, for example, esters, ethers, or carbonate groups. Hydrocarbon oils include vegetable oils. Hydrocarbon oils may be volatile or nonvolatile. The compositions according to the present invention may contain one or more hydrocarbon oils other than vegetable oils.

[0050] Examples of hydrocarbon oils that can be used include, in addition to vegetable oils, hydrocarbons containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms (e.g., n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-hexadecane, etc.); hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms, especially alkane oils (e.g., squalane); liquid fatty alcohols (e.g., oleic alcohol, linoleic acid alcohol, etc.); hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms, especially alkane oils (e.g., squalane); liquid fatty alcohols (e.g., oleic alcohol, linoleic acid alcohol, etc.); ester oils of plant origin (e.g., glycerides such as monoglycerides, diglycerides, and triglycerides of fatty acids). Examples include glycers, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides; liquid fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol esters other than glycerides (e.g., ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, hexyldecyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, cetearyl isononanoate, cococaprylic acid, cococaprylic / capric acid, etc.); liquid fatty acid ethers (e.g., dicaprylyl ether, distearyl ether, diisononyl ether, etc.); carbonated oils (e.g., dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, etc.); and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Preferably, hydrocarbon oils other than vegetable oils are of natural origin.

[0052] More preferably, the weight content of hydrocarbon oil(s) is at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Preferably, the weight content of hydrocarbon oil(s) is at most 90% by weight, preferably at most 85% by weight, and more preferably at most 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Preferably, in the composition according to the present invention, the content of hydrocarbon oil(s) is 60% to 90%, preferably 70% to 85%, and more preferably 70% to 80%, based on the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine the improved stability and functionality of the composition with better makeup results.

[0055] "Vegetable oil" refers to oil extracted from natural, unprocessed plant species.

[0056] Non-exclusive examples of vegetable oils include sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, Awara oil Examples include castor oil, avocado oil, mirabelle plum oil, shea butter oil, evening primrose oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, broccoli oil, camellia oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least 10% by weight of a vegetable oil(s) selected from macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, jojoba oil, hemp oil, safflower oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower oil, kukui oil, camellia oil, and mixtures thereof, based on the total weight of the composition. This significantly enhances the functionality of the composition according to the present invention.

[0058] In the composition according to the present invention, the mass content of vegetable oil(s) may be at least 12%, preferably at least 15%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0059] The mass content of vegetable oil(s) may be up to 50%, preferably up to 30%, and more preferably up to 20%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0060] Preferably, the mass content of vegetable oil(s) is 10% to 50%, preferably 10% to 30%, and even better, 15% to 20%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This allows for the combination of improved stability and functionality of the composition with superior care and activity properties.

[0061] Advantageously, the compositions according to the present invention do not contain mineral oil. "Mineral oil" means oils derived from fossils, in particular oils obtained from the processing of fossil fuels. In practice, mineral oils, especially isododecane, are generally added to reduce the effect of greasiness and add brightness to the texture, or even to improve mattiness and retention on the skin. Examples of mineral oils include isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and isododecane; polyisobutene; and paraffinic oils (also known as "liquid paraffin").

[0062] Advantageously, the compositions according to the present invention do not contain siliconeized and / or fluorinated fatty acids.

[0063] For the purposes of this invention, the "lipid compound" is measured at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013°C). 5 This refers to organic compounds (liquid or non-liquid) that are immiscible in water at Pa, 760 mmHg. More specifically, the water solubility of these compounds is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Compounds of this type generally feature a hydrocarbon chain containing at least six carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups in their structure.

[0064] For the purposes of this invention, "silicone-based" means a compound containing at least one silicon atom, and more particularly, at least one Si-O group. Examples include organopolysiloxanes. Examples of silicone-containing fatty compounds (also referred to herein as "silicones") include silicone oils (polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS, cyclomethicone, dimethicone containing alkyl, alkoxy, phenyl or copolyol groups, silicone crosslinked polymers, dimethiconol, etc.), silicone resins (MQ-type silicone resins, silsesquioxane resins, etc.), silicone graft polymers (MQ-type silicone resins, silsesquioxane resins, etc.), polymers grafted with one or more carbosiloxane units (e.g., vinyl polymers grafted with carbosiloxane dendrimers), silicone surfactants or emulsifiers (e.g., dimethicone copolymers or dimethicone-based emulsifiers, e.g., PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, etc.).

[0065] The term "fluorinated" refers to a compound that contains at least one fluorine atom. Examples of fluorinated fatty compounds include fluorinated oils (e.g., perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones, etc.).

[0066] silica: The composition according to the present invention contains silica.

[0067] Silica is a filler. “Filler” means solid particles of any shape that are insoluble and dispersed in a composition medium. Generally speaking, these particles may be colorless, white, or colored, and may be intrinsically mineral or organic. They are commonly used to give compositions body, flexibility, matte finish, and / or makeup uniformity.

[0068] In the context of the present invention, silica (chemical name: silicon dioxide) is used as a powder component to give the composition according to the present invention a matting effect and a reduction in greasiness in a powdery form. Silica also has the advantages of being of high natural quality. Silica is spherical. Silica can be porous or non-porous.

[0069] Preferably, the silica is porous. The porosity of the particles can be quantitatively characterized by their specific surface area or oil absorption capacity.

[0070] Preferably, silica has an oil absorption capacity of at least 0.3 mL / g, preferably at least 0.5 mL / g, and more preferably at least 1 mL / g, particularly an oil absorption capacity of liquid paraffin. The oil absorption capacity of silica can be measured by conventional methods to those skilled in the art, for example, by the method for determining the oil absorption amount of powders described in standard NF T30-022.

[0071] Advantageously, silica is amorphous.

[0072] Preferably, the silica is not surface-treated with a surface treatment agent.

[0073] The silica particles used in this invention may have an average size of 0.5 μm to 100 μm, preferably 1 μm to 50 μm, and more preferably 2 μm to 25 μm, measured by static light scattering using a commercially available MalvernMasterSizer 2000 particle size analyzer in accordance with ISO 13320-1.

[0074] Non-exclusive examples of usable silica include powders with the INCI name "SILICA" and CAS number 7631-86-9, or products marketed under the names SUNSIL-150H, SUNSIL-130H, SUNSIL-130SH (distributed by IMPAG France), or SPHERICA P1500 (distributed by SACI-CFPA).

[0075] Preferably, the silica mass content is at least 2%, preferably at least 3%, more preferably at least 4%, and even better at at least 5%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0076] The silica mass content may be up to 15%, preferably up to 10%, and more preferably up to 7%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0077] Preferably, the silica mass content is 2% to 15%, preferably 3% to 10%, more preferably 4% to 10%, and even better 4% to 7%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This allows for the combination of improved stability and functional properties of the composition.

[0078] Advantageously, the weight ratio of silica to hydrocarbon oil(s) is 1:5 to 1:30, preferably 1:10 to 1:25. This optimizes the fluidity, stability, and functionality of the composition.

[0079] Organically modified hectorite: The composition according to the present invention comprises at least 0.5% by weight of at least one organically modified clay, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0080] More specifically, the composition according to the present invention contains at least 0.5% by mass of at least one organically modified hectorite based on the total mass of the composition.

[0081] Hectorite is a well-known type of clay belonging to the smectite group. For the purposes of this invention, "organically modified hectorite" means hectorite modified with a "fatty" organic compound, i.e., one containing at least six carbon atoms. For example, hectorite can be modified with an organic compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. Organically modified hectorite is lipophilic or fat-dispersible.

[0082] Organically modified hectorite is known to have gelling properties and can be used as a fatty phase thickener. For the purposes of this invention, “thickener” refers in particular to a polymer that, by its presence, increases the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced. With respect to this combination, modified hectorite does not prevent pigment sedimentation. However, contrary to all expectations, the inventors have demonstrated that the modified hectorite present in the composition according to the present invention prevents the phenomenon of pigment clogging and the formation of a “cake” at the bottom of the bottle, and allows the pigment to be redispersed very easily by simply shaking the bottle while maintaining the fluid texture. In this way, the composition according to the present invention makes it possible to eliminate the mixing beads inserted into the bottle, which are usually used to redisperse clogging pigments.

[0083] More specifically, hectorite can be organically modified with quaternary amines, particularly ammonium halides containing at least one alkyl chain of 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as chlorides. Non-limiting examples of such organically modified hectorites include stearalkonium hectorite (INCI name: stearalkonium hectorite), quaternium-18 hectorite (INCI name: quaternium-18 hectorite), and disteardimonium hectorite (INCI name: disteardimonium hectorite, particularly those modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride).

[0084] Preferably, the organically modified hectorite is selected from stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 hectorite, disteardimonium hectorite, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the organically modified hectorite is selected from stearalkonium hectorite.

[0085] Non-limiting examples of usable modified hectorites include compounds with the INCI name "stearalkonium hectorite" that are commercially available under the names BENTONE 27 V (ELEMENTIS), COSMEDIA GEL CC (BASF), BENTONE GEL TN V, or BENTONE GEL CAO / V (distributed by SACI-CFPA); and compounds with the INCI name "disteardimonium hectorite" that are commercially available under the names BENTONE 38 V, BENTONE 38 V CG, BENTONE GEL ISD V (ELEMENTIS), BENTONE GEL EUG V, or BENTONE GEL ISD V (distributed by SACI-CFPA).

[0086] The mass content of organically modified hectorite is at least 0.5%, preferably at least 0.7%, and more preferably at least 1%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0087] The mass content of organically modified hectorite may be up to 3%, preferably up to 2.5%, and more preferably up to 2%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0088] Preferably, the mass content of organically modified hectorite is 0.5% to 3%, preferably 0.7% to 2.5%, more preferably 0.7% to 2%, and even better 1% to 2%, based on the total mass of the composition. This allows for the combination of improved stability and functional properties of the composition.

[0089] Advantageously, the weight ratio of organically modified hectorite to pigment is 1:5 to 1:30, preferably 1:8 to 1:25. This allows the composition to combine good fluidity, stability, and functional properties.

[0090] Advantageously, the weight ratio of organically modified hectorite to hydrocarbon oil(s) is less than 1:30, preferably less than 1:35, more preferably less than 1:40, and even better less than 1:50. This allows for a combination of good fluidity, stability, and functional properties of the composition.

[0091] Pigments (multiple allowed): The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one pigment.

[0092] "Pigments" means particles that are insoluble in aqueous and / or organic media and are intended to color and / or opaque the resulting compositions and / or deposits. These pigments may be white or colored. For example, combinations of red, yellow, black, or white pigments may be used. These particles may be of various shapes, e.g., plaque-like, granular, layered, or spherical. The particles may be mineral and / or organic pigments in nature. Organic and / or mineral pigments are known in the art and are described, for example, in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, or in reference FR3118420. They may be natural, of natural origin, or otherwise.

[0093] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one coloring pigment selected from, for example, red, yellow, or black pigments.

[0094] Preferably, the pigment(s) in the composition according to the present invention are natural or of natural origin.

[0095] The pigments used in this invention may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as pearlescent or lustrous pigments, layered pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Examples of inorganic pigments include zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red) and chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide and metal powders (e.g., aluminum and copper powders).

[0097] Preferably, the mineral pigment is selected from iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide pigments.

[0098] Non-exclusive examples of organic pigments include nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complexes, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone. For example, organic pigments include carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, and color indices, such as reference names CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160 (for blue pigments), CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005 (for yellow pigments), CI 61565, 61570, 74260 (for green pigments), CI 11725, 45370, 71105 (for orange pigments), CI Pigments can be selected from those coded as 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470 (for red pigments).

[0099] The pigment may be used in the form of a composite pigment, for example, a particle comprising an inorganic core and at least one organic pigment that at least partially covers the core, wherein the organic pigment is fixed to the core by a binder.

[0100] The pigment can be a lacquer. A lacquer refers to a colorant adsorbed onto insoluble particles, and the resulting aggregate remains insoluble in its medium. Examples of inorganic substrates on which the colorant is adsorbed include alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or aluminum calcium borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0101] Pigments can be special effect pigments. "Special effect pigments" generally refer to pigments that are non-uniform and produce a colored appearance (characterized by specific hue, vividness, and transparency) that changes depending on observation conditions (light, temperature, observation angle, etc.). This distinguishes them from conventional coloring pigments that provide uniform, opaque hues, translucency, or typical transparency. Special effect pigments include those with low refractive indices, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with high refractive indices, such as pearlescent pigments, interference pigments, or luminous pigments.

[0102] Special effect pigments may be selected from pearlescent pigments. Special effect pigments may consist of mica particles on which at least one continuous layer of metal oxides and / or organic colorants is superimposed. Examples of pearlescent pigments include mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxide, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and organic pigments, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. Examples of commercially available pearlescent pigments include CELLINI pearlescent pigment (mica-TiO2-lacquer) sold by BASF, PRESTIGE (mica-TiO2) or PRESTIGE Bronze (mica-Fe2O3) sold by ECKART, COLORONA (mica-TiO2-Fe2O3) or TIMIRON sold by MERCK, and SUNSHINE (synthetic mica-based pearlescent layer) sold by SUN CHEMICAL.

[0103] The particle size of the pigment used is preferably 100 nm or larger. Preferably, the pigment particle size is 100 nm to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 400 nm to 2 μm. For the purposes of this invention, "particle size" refers to the D50 of the particles. D50, or volume-average particle size, corresponds to a particle size defined such that 50% by volume of the particles have a size less than D50. The volume-average size can be evaluated by optical diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser particle size analyzer, and the particles to be evaluated are dispersed in a liquid medium such as octyldodecylneopentanoate.

[0104] The pigments used in this invention may be coated or uncoated. For example, they may be surface-treated with an organic agent, preferably a lipophilic agent.

[0105] "Surface-treated pigment" refers to a pigment coated with at least one treatment agent. Here, coating refers to the whole or partial surface treatment of the pigment by at least one surface agent (or treatment agent) absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigment. Surfactants may be selected from waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, amino acids, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc, or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides, etc.

[0106] Various types of surface-treated pigments are known to those skilled in the art and are commercially available. Examples include the ASL-1 pigment (iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigment surface-treated with fatty amino acids) commercially available from DAITO KASEI EUROPE, or the pigment (titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate) commercially available from MIYOSHI KASEI under the reference name NAI.

[0107] According to certain embodiments, the pigment(s) are selected from mineral pigments, preferably from iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. More specifically, they may be mineral pigments surface-treated with an organic, preferably lipophilic, treatment agent.

[0108] Preferably, the weight content of the pigment(s) is at least 5%, more preferably at least 7%, of the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the weight content of the pigment(s) is at least 8.5%, more preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 12%, based on the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the weight content of the pigment(s) is at least 18%, of the total weight of the composition.

[0109] The weight content of the pigment may be up to 40%, preferably up to 30%, and more preferably up to 20%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Preferably, the weight content of the pigment is 5% to 40%, preferably 7% to 40%, more preferably 7% to 30%, and more preferably 10% to 20%, based on the total weight of the composition. This allows for the combination of improved coverage, stability, and functionality of the composition.

[0111] Additional compounds: The composition according to the present invention may also include one or more compounding agents, in particular conventional cosmetic active ingredients and / or excipients.

[0112] These formulations can be appropriately selected depending on the use of the composition of the present invention.

[0113] Non-limiting examples of formulations include active ingredients, fatty compounds or organic solvents (e.g., lower alcohols and polyols), lipophilic rheological agents (thickeners or gelling agents), humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, film-forming agents, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric), fillers (e.g., matt powders, soft-focus active touch powders, etc.), UV blockers (or photoprotective agents, organic and / or inorganic, active in UVA and / or UVB), colorants, preservatives, fragrances, or any other ingredients commonly used in the fields of cosmetics and / or dermatology. The amounts of these various compounds are those conventionally used in the field under consideration.

[0114] For example, the composition according to the present invention may further contain at least one active ingredient. Examples of active ingredients include the following: - Anti-contamination agents and / or anti-radical agents and / or antioxidants (coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone), - Anti-aging agent, - Tightening or anti-wrinkle agents such as plant proteins and their hydrolysates (e.g., soy protein extract), - Moisturizers (polyols, such as glycerin), - Sedatives (such as glycylretinic acid and its salts), - Sedatives (allantoin, bisabolol, cornflower water), -Antimicrobial agents or antibacterial agents, - Buffing agent, - Vitamins and provitamins (e.g., ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8, and derivatives thereof, such as esters of these vitamins), -Essential oil.

[0115] Thanks to their knowledge of cosmetics, those skilled in the art can select the additives and their amounts to be added to the composition of the present invention according to the desired properties, without substantially altering the effects related to the composition according to the present invention, particularly the fluidity, stability, and functionality of the composition.

[0116] Advantageously, the compositions according to the present invention do not contain petrochemical-derived plastic powders. Examples include polyolefin powders (such as polyethylene), polyamide powders (such as nylon powder), or acrylic polymers (such as methacrylate copolymer powder). Examples of such plastic powders include compounds whose INCI names are methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene, ethylene / methacrylate copolymer, nylon 6, nylon-6 / 12, nylon-12, HDI / trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer, or polyethylene terephthalate. In fact, the compositions according to the present invention can have very good functional effects without having to rely on this type of component.

[0117] According to a particular embodiment, the object of the present invention is an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. a) at least 50% by weight of at least one hydrocarbon oil, wherein at least 10% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, b) at least 2% by weight of silica, c) At least 0.5% by weight of organically modified hectorite, d) An anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising at least 5% by weight of a pigment(s).

[0118] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention is an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition, wherein, with respect to the total mass of the composition, a) A hydrocarbon oil (or hydrocarbon oil) b) 2% to 15% by mass, preferably 3% to 10% by mass, particularly 4% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 4% to 7% by mass of silica. c) 0.5% to 3% by mass, preferably 0.7% to 2.5% by mass, particularly 0.7% to 2% by mass, and even better, 1% to 2% by mass of organically modified hectorite. d) at least 5% by mass, preferably at least 7% by mass, More preferably, at least 8.5% by mass, The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, more preferably, at least 10% by mass, and even better, at least 12% by mass, of a pigment.

[0119] use: Another object of the present invention is the use of the compositions according to the present invention for skincare and / or makeup.

[0120] Another object of the present invention is the use of the compositions according to the present invention as a foundation or blush.

[0121] Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic makeup and / or skincare process comprising at least one step of applying the composition defined above to the skin. [Examples]

[0122] The present invention will be described in more detail by the following non-limiting embodiments. Compounds or raw materials used are referred to by their INCI names. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages given are weight percentages. The reference "qsp" means that the amount must be sufficient to reach 100% of the final mass of the composition. The word "nd" means "undetermined".

[0123] Compositions 1 to 15 are prepared in the proportions shown in Tables 1 and 4 below, according to the procedure described below. The various compositions are also evaluated for their sensory properties (appearance, color, odor), their stability over time under various conditions detailed below, and their application properties.

[0124] In Tables 1-4 below, - The terms "Inv." or "Comp." refer to a composition "according to the present invention" or a "comparative" composition (outside the present invention), respectively. - The terms "ep." and "pigm." refer to ingredient types, meaning "thickener" and "pigment," respectively. - The left column, titled "P," indicates the phase in which the component exists. -The reference names in parentheses (following the INCI name of the compound) refer to the trade names of the raw materials used to manufacture these components. Details of these raw materials are provided below. (1) CETIOL C5C (INCI name: cococaprylic acid / capric acid (and) tocopherol), marketed by BASF. (2) Organic jojoba oil (INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis seed oil), manufactured by SAFIC ALCAN (France). (3) Virgin hazelnut oil (INCI name: Corylus avellana (hazelnut) seed oil), marketed by OLVEA VEGETABLE OILS (France). (4) LIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN BE LS 9779 (INCI name: Argania spinosa kernel oil), marketed by BASF. (5) Squalane Neossance or Squalane Biossance manufactured by AMYRIS (INCI name: Squalane). (6) CETIOL OE (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether (and) tocopherol), marketed by BASF. (7) EMOGREEN L15 (INCI name: C15-19 Alkane), marketed by SEPPIC (France). (8) VEGELIGHT SILK by Biosynthis (France) (INCI name: C9-C12 alkanes). (10) COSMEDIA GEL CC (INCI name: dicaprylyl carbonate (and) stearalkonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (and) tocopherol), marketed by BASF. The proportion of stearalkonium hectorite in "Cosmedia Gel CC" is 10% by weight. (11) SUNSIL-150H (INCI name: Silica) is marketed in France by IMPAG. (12) DC VM-2270 (INCI name: silylated silica), commercially available from UNIVAR SOLUTIONS. (13) EMC30 (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride and Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer), manufactured by POLYMEREXPERT.

[0125] (p) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments surface-treated with "fatty" amino acids, sold by DAITO KASEI EUROPE under the reference names ASL-1 TIO2 CR-50 (INCI name: Cl 77891 (titanium dioxide) (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) sodium lauroyl glutamate (and) lysine (and) magnesium chloride), ASL-1 RED R-516P (INCI name: CI 77491 (iron oxide) (and) sodium lauroyl glutamate (and) lysine (and) magnesium chloride), ASL-1 YELLOW LL-100P (INCI name: CI 77492 (iron oxide) (and) sodium lauroyl glutamate (and) lysine (and) magnesium chloride), and ASL-1 BLACK BL-100P (INCI name: CI 77499 (iron oxide) (and) sodium lauroyl glutamate (and) lysine (and) magnesium chloride). Depending on the requirements and desired final color tone, mixtures of black, red, yellow, and white pigments are used, representing a total of 18% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of each composition from 1 to 12.

[0126] (q) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments (untreated) commercially available from SUN CHEMICAL MAPRECOS, with reference names SUNPURO OX FER NOIR C337001 (INCI name: Cl 77499 / iron oxide), SUNPURO OX FER ROUGE C338001 (INCI name: Cl 77491 / iron oxide), SUNPURO OX FER JAUNE C339001 (INCI name: Cl 77492 / iron oxide), and SUNPURO OX TITANE C475001 (INCI name: Cl 77891 / titanium dioxide (and) alumina). Depending on the requirements and desired final color, mixtures of black, red, yellow, and white pigments are used, representing a total of 18% by weight of the pigments relative to the total weight of composition 13.

[0127] (r) Organic pigments commercially available from DAITO KASEI EUROPE under the reference names DK-PGT PASTE R7 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 (and) Cl 15850 / RED 7), DK-PGT PASTE Y5L (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 (and) Cl 19140 / YELLOW 5 LAKE), and inorganic pigments commercially available as DK-PGT PASTE Ti (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 (and) Cl 77891 / Titanium Dioxide (and) Aluminum Hydroxide). Depending on the requirements and desired final color, mixtures of black, red, yellow, and white pigments are used, representing a total of 8.5% by weight of the pigments relative to the total weight of compositions 14 and 15.

[0128] (s) Pearlescent material commercially available from SAFIC ALCAN (France) under the reference name PRESTIGE SILVER (INCI name: mica (and) CI 77891 / titanium dioxide). In composition 15 according to the present invention, the mass content of the pearlescent pigment corresponds to 2% of the total mass of the composition.

[0129] [Table 1]

[0130] The formulations 1-4 shown in Table 1 have very similar compositions and do not contain modified hectorite, but they do contain various thickeners or gelling agents. These four compositions were found to be unstable in stability tests, particularly under a one-month temperature cycle (procedure described below). Comparative composition 1 contains 5% silica, which gives the formulation a powdery appearance. This composition is unstable. In particular, after storage under temperature cycling conditions (alternating cycles of -10°C to 25°C every 12 hours), the powder (pigment and silica) clogs at the bottom of the tablet dispenser, forming a "cake" that is too complex to mix. In comparative composition 2, which contains 8% silica, the powder settles and clogs at the bottom of the tablet dispenser. Comparative composition 3, which has another thickener (1% silylated silica) added, also results in pigment clogging. Comparative composition 4, which uses a different fatty phase gelling agent (2.5% copolymer in oil), slows down pigment sedimentation but results in a small amount of oily release and fails to solve the problem of clogging at the bottom of the tablet dispenser.

[0131] [Table 2]

[0132] Formulations 5-8 shown in Table 2 contain combinations according to the present invention with lipophilic treated mineral pigments. Formulation 5 has a composition very similar to Formulation 4, except that it contains 1% by weight of modified hectorite (10% "Cosmedia gel CC" containing modified hectorite in an oily mixture) instead of a copolymer gelling agent. Surprisingly, the modified hectorite in the combination according to the present invention prevents clogging without substantially thickening the formulation. In fact, Formulation 5 does not prevent pigment sedimentation, but not only slows it down, the pigment is redispersed very easily and uniformly in the composition under simple stirring before application. Compositions 6 and 7 are further examples of compositions according to the present invention, containing specific combinations of components. These compositions also avoid the problem of clogging at the bottom. In addition, compositions 5-7 have a particular sensory appeal, with a light oily feeling on the skin that gradually changes into a fine powdery deposit.

[0133] Comparative composition 8 differs from composition 7 according to the present invention in that it does not contain silica. Although composition 8 is stable, it has an unsatisfactory feel with a very oily and greasy effect.

[0134] [Table 3]

[0135] Compositions 9-13 are further examples of compositions according to the present invention that are suitable for use as a foundation. Compositions 9-12 contain different combinations of oils. Composition 13 contains other types of untreated mineral pigments. All of these compositions do not have clogging problems and allow for good dispersion of pigments simply by shaking the tablet dispenser. Furthermore, they have very good functional properties and transform into fine powdery (non-oily) deposits when oil is applied.

[0136] [Table 4]

[0137] Compositions 14 and 15 are further examples of compositions according to the present invention that are suitable for use as blush. These compositions contain combinations according to the present invention together with other oil combinations and organic pigments. Composition 15 contains pearlescent luster. These compositions do not have any clogging problems and allow for good dispersion of pigments under simple stirring in a tablet dispenser. In addition, they have excellent functional properties and transform into fine powdery (non-oily) deposits when oil is applied.

[0138] Procedures for "Foundation" compositions 1-2 and 4-13: Phase A is prepared by mixing and heating the corresponding components at 80°C (using a hot plate) at approximately 500 rpm (revolutions per minute) under a Rayneri stirring device equipped with a deflocculator. The mixture is stirred vigorously for 10 minutes. Once the temperature reaches 80°C, the mixture is cooled to below 40°C under gentle stirring (approximately 200 rpm), after which Phase B (flavoring) is added. Next, Phase C (powder) is added, and the whole mixture is homogenized using an Ultra Turrax homogenizer at approximately 9500 rpm for approximately 15 minutes.

[0139] A liquid foundation composition with a homogeneous, fluid appearance and foundation color is obtained.

[0140] Procedure for comparative composition 3: Phase A is prepared by mixing the oil under Rayneri stirring with a deflocculator at approximately 500 rpm (revolutions per minute). Next, the pigment of Phase C is sprinkled onto mixture A, and the mixture is blended using an Ultra Turrax homogenizer at approximately 9500 rpm for approximately 15 minutes. The mixture is heated to 80°C, then the Phase C gelling agent (castor oil / IPDI copolymer in caprylic / capric triglyceride oil) is added to the mixture, and stirring is maintained at approximately 400-500 rpm for approximately 15 minutes. The mixture is cooled while gently stirring (approximately 200 rpm), and when the temperature reaches approximately 50°C, silica is added. The mixture is cooled while gently stirring (approximately 200 rpm).

[0141] A liquid foundation composition with a homogeneous, fluid appearance and foundation color is obtained.

[0142] Procedure for "Cheek" compositions 14 and 15: Phase A is prepared by mixing the components at high speed (approximately 500 rpm or revolutions per minute) under Rayneri stirring using a deflocculator. ru.Next, add Phase B (fragrance) and stir until the mixture is homogenized. Then, add Phase C pigment (including pearl, if applicable) to mixture A and blend the whole using an Ultra Turrax homogenizer at approximately 9500 rpm for approximately 15 minutes. Next, add the silica from Phase C to the mixture and stir the whole until homogenized (at approximately 500 rpm for approximately 10 minutes).

[0143] A liquid teak composition having a homogeneous, fluid teak-like appearance is obtained.

[0144] Evaluation method: Viscosity measurement: Viscosity is measured after obtaining the anhydrous composition, after 24 hours of storage of the composition in an oven at 20°C, and after homogenization by shaking the bottle. Viscosity is measured at an ambient temperature of approximately 20°C using the aforementioned measuring device (Brookfield Viscometer Model LV). This device measures the torque required to rotate a mobile "M" of a given size (selected according to the manufacturer's standard operating recommendations) immersed in the fluid being tested at a given speed "V". Viscosity can be measured using mobile number M63 at a speed of 100 rpm, or using mobile number M62 at a speed of 100 rpm. The measured value is expressed in cP (centipoise or MPa.s). table Listed in section 4.

[0145] Stability evaluation: The stability of the liquid compositions is studied after storage under various conditions, including accelerated aging in a constant-temperature oven. For each composition, five glass vials were tested for stability: 6 months in the dark at room temperature (RT), and 3 months at 4°C, 3 months at 40°C, 1 month at 50°C in a temperature-controlled oven, and 1 month with temperature cycling (automatic temperature cycling from -10°C to 25°C every 12 hours). After storage under these various conditions, the quality and color of the samples are evaluated by sensory stimulation analysis (appearance, color, and odor). Sensory stimulation evaluation involves evaluating the overall macroscopic characteristics (color, possible sedimentation, possible aggregation, possible oily discharge, constant fluidity over time, etc.) and odor of the stored samples compared to control compositions kept in the dark (control composition at 4°C for comparison of color and odor, and control composition at ambient temperature for comparison of texture and application).

[0146] The post-storage stability results under various tested conditions (listed in Tables 1-4 above) show that comparative compositions 1-4 all clogged at the bottom of the bottle (aggregation and "cake" formation make it very difficult to homogenize the skin-colored oil under agitation before application). In contrast, the compositions according to the present invention, containing specific combinations of components, are fluid and "stable" overall (even if the pigment settles slowly), i.e., no aggregation or clogging occurs, and these compositions are homogenized very easily under simple shaking of the bottle (without using metal balls inside the bottle for shaking).

[0147] Performance and sensory evaluation: The functional properties of composition 7 according to the present invention (texture and feel during and after application) will be compared with the functional properties of the following three commercially available high-performance "skin-colored oil" products. -Comparative composition A contains the following ingredients: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, dicaprylyl ether, silica, caprylic / capric triglyceride, talc, tridecane, C10-18 triglyceride, kaolin, tridecane, Sclerocarya birrea seed oil, Glycine soja (soybean) oil, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, trihydroxystearin, lecithin, tocopherol, and pigment. Comparative composition B contains the following ingredients: cococaprylic / capric acid, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, octyldodecanol, Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, silica, kaolin, mica, Oryza sativa (rice) bran extract, Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) extract, tocopherol, Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, Camellia oleifera (tea) seed oil, Rosa canina (dog rose) fruit oil, Rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil, and pigment. -Ingredients: Wild cabbage (Brassica oleracea) (broccoli) seed oil, coconut alkanes, cococaprylic / capric acid, mica, lauroyl lysine, silica, milk thistle (Silybum marianum) seed extract, neem (Azadirachta indica) extract, horsetail (Equisetum arvense) extract, lemon balm (Melissa officianalis) extract, barberry (Berberis vulgaris) extract, sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) seed extract, elderflower (Sambucus nigra) extract, bitter melon (Momordica charantia) extract, Spanish licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) Comparative composition C containing licorice extract, tocopherol, and pigment.

[0148] The sensory properties of the skin-colored oil according to the present invention will be evaluated by a panel of six experts (trained in sensory technology) by applying 60 μL of the composition to each side of a (pre-washed) face and comparing it to each of commercially available products on half of the face. After shaking each bottle, the product will be dispensed using a pipette. Each composition will be spread on the face with the fingers, evenly distributed from the center outwards.

[0149] The descriptive terms to be evaluated are divided into two categories as follows: ●When applying: - Slipperiness (the ability of a product to slide and spread during application, as opposed to braking sensation) - Slipperiness affects how easily the product spreads on the skin and the uniformity of application. - Squeakiness (the ability of a product to produce friction noise during application), - A change from an oily feel (a rich, oily fluid sensation) to a powdery feel (a fine, soft, dry film sensation on the skin). ●Immediately after application: -Greasy or oily feeling (the ability of a product to leave an oily, residual thin film on the skin surface), - Adhesion (the ability of the product to adhere to the skin by pressing it with the middle finger, giving the sensation of the skin being lifted), - Shine (in contrast to a matte finish, the ability of a product to reflect light by tilting its head to capture it), - Coverage (the ability of a product to cover the skin and form an opaque, thin film, as opposed to transparency).

[0150] The comparison is scored on a scale from -2 to 2. "-2" means that the characteristics of the control according to the present invention are lower than those of the commercially available product tested. "-1" means that the control characteristics according to the present invention are slightly lower than those of the commercially available product tested. "0" means that the control characteristics according to the present invention are equivalent to or very close to the characteristics of the commercially available product tested. "1" means that the control characteristic according to the present invention is slightly higher than the characteristic of the commercially available product tested. "2" means that the characteristics of the control according to the present invention are higher than those of the commercially available product tested.

[0151] The results of the comparative evaluation of sensory characteristics, along with the averages of the six expert panelists used, are listed in Table 5 below.

[0152] [Table 5]

[0153] Despite its very high content of naturally derived ingredients (over 98%), the composition according to the present invention achieves sensory properties comparable to commercially available high-performance compositions. In particular, this composition provides better slipperiness, better coverage, and a more perceptible transformation effect than comparative composition A. In addition, this composition is smoother and less sticky than comparative composition C, which is perceived as heavier overall and more difficult to spread. Furthermore, the transformation effect of the composition according to the present invention is perceived as much higher, and particularly interestingly, it initially has an oily feel, providing comfort and care to the skin, before transforming into a powdery, soft, dry feel. Compared to composition B, the composition according to the present invention has very similar properties. However, the level of naturalness of this product is unknown, and the composition according to the present invention eliminates the need for stirring beads present in product B.

[0154] Therefore, the specific combinations according to the present invention make it possible to provide skin-toned products in anhydrous liquid form with particularly interesting functionalities, containing a large amount of vegetable oil, without affecting the functionalities of these products. Furthermore, the specific combinations according to the present invention make it possible to obtain highly natural compositions that are at least as effective as commercially available compositions with a lower content of naturally derived ingredients. Finally, the combinations according to the present invention prevent clogging without the need to use mixing beads in the bottle.

[0155] More generally, the compositions according to the present invention have a very fluid texture and spread very easily with quick and even application. The compositions bring a colored feel to the skin and enhance it naturally. In addition, immediately after application, the skin is more even, radiant, nourished, supple, and has a refined texture.

[0156] In conclusion, compositions according to the present invention, including the specific combinations described in the claims, enable the harmonization of all desired properties, such as fluidity, stability, ease of homogenization before application, coverage, mattiness, and sensory properties (easy application, good glide, low stickiness, soft, dry film, and transformation from a light oil to a fine powdery film upon application, providing a unique sensory experience). Finally, compositions according to the present invention provide true care and comfort to the skin, leaving it soft, nourished, and protected from dryness.

[0157] Therefore, by using specific combinations of components according to the present invention, it becomes possible to obtain a fluid coloring composition that exhibits the required functional and stability properties while having a high level of naturalness.

Claims

1. An anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition, wherein, with respect to the total weight of the composition, a) At least 50% by weight of at least one hydrocarbon oil, wherein at least 10% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, b) Silica, c) At least 0.5% by weight of organically modified hectorite, d) An anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising at least one pigment.

2. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the mass content of vegetable oil is at least 12%, preferably at least 15%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the vegetable oil is selected from macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, jojoba oil, hemp oil, safflower oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower oil, kukui oil, camellia oil, and mixtures thereof.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, of hydrocarbon oil based on the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the silica is porous.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the silica has an oil absorption capacity of at least 0.3 mL / g, preferably at least 0.5 mL / g, and more preferably at least 1 mL / g.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 3% by weight, and more preferably at least 4% by weight of silica, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of silica to hydrocarbon oil is 1:5 to 1:30, preferably 1:10 to 1:

25.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the organically modified hectorite is selected from stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 hectorite, disteardimonium hectorite, and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from stearalkonium hectorite.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the mass content of organically modified hectorite is 0.5% to 3%, preferably 0.7% to 2.5%, and more preferably 1% to 2%.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 7% by weight, at least 8.5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, and even better at at least 12% by weight of pigment, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of organically modified hectorite to the amount of pigment is 1:5 to 1:30, preferably 1:8 to 1:

25.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition does not contain a siliconeized and / or fluorinated fatty acid compound.

14. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition does not contain mineral oil.

15. A cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising at least 90% naturally derived ingredients, preferably at least 95% naturally derived ingredients, in accordance with standard NF ISO 16128.

16. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, preferably as a foundation or blush, for skincare and / or makeup.

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