Blended yarn, woven or knitted fabric using the same, manufacturing method thereof, and black formal clothing

Abstract

To provide a combined filament yarn and a woven or knitted fabric, which have excellent black color development and bulkiness as black formal clothing, and a manufacturing method thereof.SOLUTION: A combined filament yarn is formed using polyester multifilament containing colloidal silica having an average primary particle diameter of 0.02 to 0.1 μm at a core portion and a sheath portion. Heat and water shrinkage of the core portion polyester multifilament is 10% to 30%, while that of the sheath portion polyester multifilament is 5% or less in the combined filament yarn. A knitted or woven fabric using the combined filament yarn and a manufacturing method thereof are provided. Black formal clothing is formed of the knitted or woven fabric.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a mixed yarn having high black color development and excellent bulkiness that has not been achieved in the past, a woven or knitted fabric using the same, a method for producing the same, and black formal clothing. [Background technology]

[0002] Conventionally, in order to express an elegant black color, polyester woven and knitted fabrics for black formal wear have been proposed, such as those that absorb incident light by mixing polyester fibers with different hot water shrinkage rates for the core and sheath, and obtain interfiber voids, and those that reduce reflected light by forming micropores on the surface of polyester fibers. However, compared to natural fibers such as acetate, rayon, wool, and silk, It has the disadvantage that the color development of dyed fabrics is poor and the depth of color like that of natural fibers cannot be obtained. In particular, the depth of black color is significantly inferior to that of natural fibers, so there is a strong demand for improvement in the black color development for black formal clothing applications.

[0003] Patent Document 1 discloses a blended yarn made of polyester filaments with a hot water shrinkage rate of 15% or more in the core and polyester filaments with a hot water shrinkage rate of 3% or less and containing colloidal silica of 0.02 to 0.1 μm in the sheath, which has aesthetic properties such as high color development, fluffy feeling, and soft feeling, and abrasion resistance properties. We propose woven and knitted fabrics that combine quality requirements such as durability and resistance to ironing.

[0004] Patent Document 2 proposes a fabric that has excellent deep dyeability, a light feel, a dry feel, and excellent breathability, by weaving a mixed yarn made of polyester filaments containing a metal-containing phosphorus compound with a particle diameter of 0.01 to 1.5 μm in the core and sheath portions, and treating the mixed yarn with an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution to form micropores. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0005] [Patent Document 1] JP 2009-185416 A [Patent Document 2] JP 2019-183366 A Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0006] Although the fabric described in Patent Document 1 has excellent color development, resistance to ironing, and friction fastness, the polyester filaments constituting the core are thin and the strength of the blended yarn is weak at 1.7 cN / dtex or less, so that the fabric is prone to pilling and has insufficient durability for use as formal clothing.

[0007] The fabric described in Patent Document 2 has excellent color development, lightness, and dryness due to the above-mentioned composition, and also has excellent breathability. However, since the difference in hot water shrinkage rate between the core and sheath is small, it is insufficient to obtain bulkiness for use in black formal clothing.

[0008] In view of the above background of the prior art, an object of the present invention is to provide a mixed yarn and a woven or knitted fabric having excellent black coloring and bulkiness suitable for black formal clothing, and a method for producing the same. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] In order to solve the above problems, the mixed yarn of the present invention has the following configuration. A mixed yarn using polyester multifilaments containing colloidal silica having an average primary particle diameter of 0.02 to 0.1 μm as a core and sheath, (However, this does not include those with a single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or less.) The hot water shrinkage rate is 18 % to 30%, and the hot water shrinkage rate of the sheath polyester multifilament is 5% or less.

[0010] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the following configuration. A woven or knitted fabric using the above blended yarn.

[0011] The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the following configuration. This is a method for producing the above-mentioned woven or knitted fabric, characterized in that microvoids are formed in the core and sheath portions of the mixed yarn that ultimately constitutes the woven or knitted fabric by reducing the yarn weight by 10 to 30% by weight in an alkali reduction step in dyeing processing.

[0012] The black formal clothing of the present invention has the following configuration. A black formal garment characterized by being made of the above woven or knitted fabric.

[0013] The mixed yarn of the present invention is preferably twisted with a twist multiplier of 12,000 to 30,000.

[0014] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a brightness (L value) of 7.0 to 12.0. Effect of the Invention

[0015] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric having excellent high black color development and bulkiness. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0016] The present invention will be described in detail below.

[0017] The blended yarn of the present invention is characterized in that the core and sheath are composed of polyester multifilaments containing colloidal silica having a primary particle diameter of 0.02 to 0.1 μm, the polyester multifilaments constituting the core have a hot water shrinkage rate of 10% to 30%, and the polyester multifilaments constituting the sheath have a hot water shrinkage rate of 5% or less.

[0018] Polyester multifilament core (However, this does not include those with a single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or less.) The hot water shrinkage rate is 18 The hot water shrinkage rate is 100% to 30%. 18%, the difference in yarn length with the sheath yarn cannot be increased by high shrinkage, resulting in inferior bulkiness, and black coloring due to the multiple reflections of incident light on the core-sheath gap cannot be expected. On the other hand, if the hot water shrinkage rate exceeds 30%, the amount of unoriented polymer inside the fiber increases, causing deterioration over time. The hot water shrinkage rate of the polyester multifilament that constitutes the core is 18 It is preferable that the content is 25% to 30%.

[0019] The hot water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament constituting the sheath is 5% or less. If the hot water shrinkage exceeds 5%, the dark color due to increased dyeability and excellent black color development due to reduced reflected light from microvoids cannot be expected, and the difference in hot water shrinkage with the core polyester multifilament becomes small, so that a sufficient core-sheath yarn length difference cannot be obtained and bulkiness is poor. The hot water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament constituting the sheath is preferably -5% to 5%.

[0020] The polyester multifilament core and sheath used in the mixed yarn of the present invention contains colloidal silica having an average primary particle diameter of 0.02 to 0.1 μm. If the average primary particle diameter of the colloidal silica is outside the above range, the colloidal silica near the fiber surface falls off during the weight reduction process, making it impossible to generate microvoids on the fiber surface, and the reflected light is not reduced, making it impossible to improve the black color development. The average primary particle diameter of the colloidal silica is preferably in the range of 0.02 to 0.07 μm. The size of the microvoids depends on the size of the fine particles and is approximately the same as the average particle diameter of the fine particles.

[0021] The average primary particle diameter in the present invention refers to a value obtained by measuring the circumscribing diameter of particles with a particle size analyzer (LA-700) manufactured by Horiba, Ltd., and measuring an n number of 50.

[0022] The colloidal silica preferably used in the present invention is a material containing silicon oxide as a main component, and existing as single particles as colloids in water, monohydric alcohols, diols or mixtures thereof as a dispersion medium.

[0023] The polyester multifilament of the mixed yarn used in the present invention may be, but is not limited to, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, etc., and may be, for example, a fiber obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid sulfonate, adipic acid, isophthalic acid, polyethylene glycol, etc., or a fiber obtained by blending these copolymers or polyethylene glycol. These fibers may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among them, polyethylene terephthalate is preferred because it has excellent physical properties and is available at low cost.

[0024] The filament cross section of the polyester multifilament is not particularly limited, and may be a round or irregular cross section. Examples of irregular cross sections include multi-lobed cross sections such as H-shaped, X-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped, and cross-shaped, and polygonal cross sections such as deep triangular, quadrangular, pentagonal, hexagonal, and octagonal cross sections, and may be any shape. Among them, a circular cross section is preferable because it is available at low cost.

[0025] Next, the manufacturing method of the mixed yarn will be described. First, a polyester multifilament containing colloidal silica having an average primary particle diameter of 0.02 to 0.1 μm is supplied as the core of the mixed yarn, and is stretched by a feed roller while being heat-treated by a hot pin. Next, the core is stretched by a feed roller at a fixed ratio while being heat-treated non-contact with a hollow heater. On the other hand, a polyester multifilament containing colloidal silica having an average primary particle diameter of 0.02 to 0.1 μm is supplied as the sheath, and is stretched by a feed roller while being heat-treated by a hot pin. Next, the sheath is heat-treated non-contact with a hollow heater, and is heat-treated at a fixed length or over-fed by a feed roller to perform a relaxation heat treatment. The heat treatment by the heater may be either a fixed length heat treatment or a relaxation heat treatment. Next, the heat-treated core yarn and sheath yarn are entangled to obtain an air-entangled yarn.

[0026] The entanglement method is preferably air entanglement, and by applying high-pressure air to the running core yarn and sheath yarn, the filaments are partially mixed and entangled to form an interlace yarn, or by supplying the filaments to a turbulent nozzle with different amounts of feed to form a taslan-processed yarn, in which loops are formed. In particular, the taslan process is preferable from the viewpoint of forming a core-sheath structure.

[0027] The total fineness of the mixed yarn used in the present invention is preferably 50 to 300, more preferably 80 to 250, from the viewpoint of thickness and stiffness for formal use.

[0028] The mixed yarn according to the present invention is a twisted yarn, and preferably has a twist factor of 12,000 to 30,000. If it is within the above range, the mixed yarn has excellent outer layer quality, excellent stiffness, and no risk of interfering with weaving.

[0029] The twist factor K is expressed by the following formula.

[0030] K = T × D 1 / 2 Here, K is the twist coefficient, T is the number of twists per unit length (T / m), and D is the fineness (dtex).

[0031] Next, a woven fabric made of the above-mentioned mixed yarn will be described.

[0032] When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is made into a woven fabric, the mixed fiber yarn is arranged in some or all of the warp and / or weft threads, and it is preferable that the mixed fiber yarn is arranged in all of the warp and / or weft threads, and it is more preferable that the mixed fiber yarn is arranged in all of the warp or weft threads from the viewpoint of achieving both excellent black color development and bulkiness as formal clothing.

[0033] Of the woven and knitted fabrics of the present invention, the form of the woven fabric is not particularly limited, and preferred are plain, twill, satin, and plain double, twill double, warp double, back satin, etc. Preferred are circular knits such as jersey, milling, and punch, and warp knits such as tricot, half, and denby. Of these, plain double woven fabrics are more preferred from the viewpoint of quality as formal clothing.

[0034] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a fabric-like material and may have any structure or shape, such as a belt-like material or a string-like material.

[0035] The dyeing and finishing of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention may be carried out by a general process, for example, by carrying out continuous desizing and scouring, followed by drying and setting, weight reduction, dyeing with a jet dyeing machine, printing, adding finishing agents such as a water repellent and a deep coloring agent, and finishing and setting. The same process is adopted for all types of woven fabrics, and the dyeing conditions may be selected according to the material. The woven fabric may be added with finishing agents such as a fluorine-based, silicone-based or paraffin-based water repellent, a softener, an antistatic agent, a water absorbent, an antibacterial deodorant, etc.

[0036] In the method for producing the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the weight is reduced by 10 to 30% by weight in the alkali weight reduction step. The weight reduction rate is preferably 15 to 25% by weight. If the weight reduction rate exceeds 30% by weight, cracks may occur in the polyester multifilament, resulting in a decrease in strength. On the other hand, if the weight reduction rate is less than 10% by weight, microvoids may not be sufficiently formed.

[0037] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a brightness L value of 7.0 to 12.0 after dyeing.

[0038] The present invention can also be effectively used as a textile product using the woven or knitted fabric.

[0039] In the present invention, the yarn is preferably used as clothing, particularly as formal wear such as jackets, slacks, and skirts. In particular, by satisfying the above-mentioned brightness, the yarn has an excellent and elegant appearance as a formal garment, particularly as a black formal garment. The brightness can be achieved by selecting a black dye and using the above-mentioned textured yarn by strong twisting. Furthermore, it is also preferable to carry out a deep dyeing process using a deep dyeing agent. EXAMPLES

[0040] The present invention is not limited to the following examples. The performance in the examples was evaluated according to the following methods.

[0041] (Hot water shrinkage rate) From the blended yarn, 6 cm of each of the polyester multifilament core and sheath are taken out as samples. The samples are marked at 5 cm intervals under a load of 0.1 g / dtex, wrapped in gauze, and heat-treated at 98°C for 30 minutes without tension. The samples are then taken out and air-dried for 24 hours, and again placed under a load of 0.1 g / dtex to completely stretch the crimp that had developed. The interval (L) of the marks made before the heat treatment is then read, and the hot water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament core and sheath is calculated using the following formula:

[0042] Hot water shrinkage rate (%) = {(5-L) / 5} x 100 (fineness) Measurements were performed in accordance with JIS-L-1013(2010) 8.3.1 Method B.

[0043] (Number of twists) Measurements were performed in accordance with JIS-L-1013(2010) 7.2.2.

[0044] (weaving density) Measurements were performed in accordance with JIS-L-1096(2010) 8.6.1 Method A.

[0045] (Met) Measurements were performed in accordance with JIS-L-1096(2010) 8.3.2 Method A.

[0046] (Color development) The L value was measured using a colorimeter CM-2600d manufactured by Konica Minolta, Inc. A lower L value indicates better color development.

[0047] (bulky) The bulkiness was evaluated by a sensory panel of 10 experts and judged according to the following criteria.

[0048] ⊚: Good bulkiness, ◯: Equivalent to general woven fabrics, ×: Not excellent in bulkiness.

[0049] (Appearance quality) The appearance quality was evaluated by a sensory panel of 10 experts and judged according to the following criteria.

[0050] ◎: Elegant appearance and sufficient firmness, ○: Either an elegant appearance or sufficient firmness is satisfied, ×: Neither the appearance nor the texture is excellent.

[0051] [Example 1] A polymer consisting of polyethylene terephthalate containing 1.0% by weight of colloidal silica with an average primary particle diameter of 0.05 μm was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 m / min to obtain a highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament having 90 dtex / 48 filaments (round cross section) and an elongation of 150%.

[0052] Next, the polyester multifilament was supplied as a core and a sheath, respectively, and mixed according to the production conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a mixed yarn having the mixed yarn properties shown in Table 1.

[0053] Next, the resulting mixed yarn was twisted to a twist number of 2,000 T / m and a twist coefficient of 25,300 to produce a flat ply fabric using the resulting hard twist yarn as the warp and weft. After scouring, drying, and intermediate setting in the usual manner, the fabric was immersed in a solution containing 3% sodium hydroxide and subjected to a 20% alkali weight reduction treatment, and then dyed and dried in the usual manner. In addition, resin processing was performed using a deep coloring agent to improve the brightness, and finishing setting was performed to obtain a processed fabric with a warp density of 151 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 106 / 2.54 cm. The fiber surfaces of the core and sheath of the mixed yarn had microvoids due to the loss of colloidal silica. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0054] [Example 2] After obtaining a mixed yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1, a flat double weave fabric was woven using high twist yarns with a twist number of 1,600 T / m and a twist coefficient of 20,240 as warp and weft yarns. Next, after performing scouring, drying, and intermediate setting in a conventional manner, the fabric was immersed in a solution adjusted to a sodium hydroxide concentration of 3% and subjected to a 20% alkali weight reduction treatment, and then dyed and dried in a conventional manner. In addition, resin processing was performed using a deep coloring agent to improve the brightness, and finish setting was performed to obtain a processed fabric with a warp density of 178 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 124 / 2.54 cm. The fiber surfaces of the core and sheath parts of the mixed yarn were woven with microvoids due to the loss of colloidal silica. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0055] [Example 3] After obtaining a polyester multifilament similar to that in Example 1, the core and sheath were supplied separately and mixed according to the manufacturing conditions in Table 1, which were different from those in Example 1, to obtain a mixed yarn having the mixed yarn properties shown in Table 1.

[0056] Next, the resulting mixed yarn was twisted to a twist number of 2,000 T / m and a twist coefficient of 25,300 to produce a flat ply fabric using the resulting hard twist yarn as the warp and weft. After scouring, drying, and intermediate setting in the usual manner, the fabric was immersed in a solution containing 3% sodium hydroxide and subjected to a 20% alkali weight reduction treatment, and then dyed and dried in the usual manner. In addition, resin processing was performed using a deep coloring agent to improve the brightness, and finishing setting was performed to obtain a processed fabric with a warp density of 151 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 106 / 2.54 cm. The fiber surfaces of the core and sheath of the mixed yarn had microvoids due to the loss of colloidal silica. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0057] [Comparative Example 1] The core of Example 1 was changed to a polyester filament of 22 dtex / 24 filaments (round cross section) which was spun at a spinning speed of 1700 m / min using polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8 mol % isophthalic acid and then heat-drawn at 130°C. The filaments were mixed under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a mixed yarn having the mixed yarn properties shown in Table 1.

[0058] Next, the resulting blended yarn was twisted to a twist number of 2,600 T / m and a twist coefficient of 28,720 to produce a plain double-layered fabric, which was used as the warp and weft yarns. The fabric was then dyed and dried in the usual manner, and resin-treated with a deep coloring agent to improve the brightness, and finished and set to produce a fabric used for general formal clothing with a warp density of 186 threads / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 135 threads / 2.54 cm, as shown in Table 1. The resulting finished fabric had poor black coloring and was not satisfactory in bulkiness, as shown in Table 1. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0059] [Comparative Example 2] The core of Example 1 was changed to a polyester filament of 90 dtex / 48 filament (round cross section) obtained by spinning polyethylene terephthalate not containing colloidal silica at a spinning speed of 3,000 m / min and then heat-drawing the filament at 130°C. The filaments were mixed under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a mixed yarn having the mixed yarn properties shown in Table 1.

[0060] Next, the resulting blended yarn was twisted to a twist number of 2,000 T / m and a twist coefficient of 25,300 to produce a plain double-layered fabric, which was used as the warp and weft yarns. The fabric was then dyed and dried in the usual manner, and resin-treated with a deep coloring agent to improve the brightness, and finished and set to produce a fabric used for general formal clothing with a warp density of 151 threads / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 106 threads / 2.54 cm, as shown in Table 1. The resulting finished fabric had poor black coloring and was not satisfactory in bulkiness, as shown in Table 1. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0061] [Table 1] [Industrial Applicability]

[0062] The woven fabric of the present invention has an excellent black coloring, an elegant appearance, and excellent bulkiness, and can therefore be suitably used to produce formal clothing products.

Claims

1. The mixed yarn is made by using polyester multifilaments containing colloidal silica having an average primary particle size of 0.02 to 0.1 μm as a core and a sheath, characterized in that the hot water shrinkage rate of the core polyester multifilaments (excluding those having a single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or less) is 18% to 30%, and the hot water shrinkage rate of the sheath polyester multifilaments is 5% or less.

2. The mixed yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that the yarn is twisted with a twist multiplier of 12,000 to 30,000.

3. A woven or knitted fabric using the mixed yarn according to claim 1 or 2.

4. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that the lightness (L value) is 7.0 to 12.

0.

5. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that microvoids are formed in the core and sheath of the mixed yarn which finally constitutes the woven or knitted fabric by reducing the weight of the mixed yarn by 10 to 30% by weight in an alkali reduction step in dyeing processing.

6. 5. A black formal wear comprising the woven or knitted fabric according to claim 3 or 4.

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