Compositions containing a Sphingomonas ferment extract for the care of keratinous materials - Patent Application 20070233633

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising (a) at least one oil in an amount of 3% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, (b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, (c) a fermentation product obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum, and (d) at least one oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester. The composition is intended to treat skin aging and maintain a desirable texture and translucent appearance.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition in pre-essence form for caring for keratinous materials, particularly the skin. More particularly, it relates to a composition comprising a Sphingomonas ferment extract. It also relates to the use of a composition comprising a Sphingomonas ferment extract for enhancing the repair and regeneration capacity of keratinous materials, particularly the skin, i.e., cosmetic use.

[0002] The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method comprising at least administering to an individual undergoing skin aging at least said composition. [Background technology]

[0003] The present invention aims, particularly from an aesthetic standpoint, to provide a composition for preventing and / or treating skin aging that has a desirable translucent feel and appearance.

[0004] The epidermis is an epithelium and is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes, which contains inter alia the skin stem cells and constitutes the germinal layer of the epidermis, a "spinous" layer composed of several layers of polygonal cells located on the basal layer, a "granular" layer comprising one to three layers of so-called flat cells containing characteristic intracytoplasmic inclusions of keratohyalin granules, and finally a set of upper layers called the stratum corneum (stratum corneum), composed of keratinocytes in the final stage of differentiation called corneocytes.

[0005] The stratum corneum or horny layer is the superficial layer of the epidermis, located at the interface between the organism and the environment. It is composed of corneocytes, which are anucleate cells resulting from the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes. They are rich in keratin and surrounded by an impermeable lipid matrix. Due to its protein and lipid composition, the stratum corneum essentially acts as a skin barrier, making it possible to prevent the penetration of microbial pathogens and to prevent hydration of the skin, and therefore of the whole body.

[0006] During skin aging, many forms of discomfort are reported by the elderly, apart from the well-known causal effects of aging on the relief of the skin. These forms of discomfort are caused by the impairment of the barrier function and of the epidermal homeostasis of the skin. Thus, the stratum corneum of aged skin has a reduced intercellular lipid content compared to young skin, especially in winter. This change in the composition of the stratum corneum disrupts the physicochemical barrier properties of the skin. Finally, the recovery rate of the barrier function after the stratum corneum is impaired slows with age, suggesting a dysfunction of the epidermal homeostasis (Denda, M., 2002; Ghadially, R. et al., 1995; Leveque, JL, 2001). In addition, the applicant has observed that under these same circumstances, certain genes in response to physical or chemical attacks on the stratum corneum show modulation kinetics that differ significantly depending on the age of the individual. More specifically, the induction of expression of certain genes is found to be delayed in aged skin compared to young skin.

[0007] Furthermore, skin homeostasis, and in particular epidermal homeostasis, is brought about by a finely controlled balance of the proliferation and differentiation processes of the skin's cells, which are perfectly regulated and participate in the renewal and / or redifferentiation of the skin, leading to the maintenance of a constant skin thickness, and in particular of a constant epidermal thickness. This skin homeostasis is also involved in the maintenance of the skin's mechanical properties.

[0008] However, this homeostasis of the skin can be impaired by certain physiological factors (age, menopause, hormones, etc.) or environmental factors (UV stress, pollution, oxidative stress, irritant stress, etc.). The redifferentiation potential of the epidermis becomes less significant and the cells of the basal layer differentiate less actively, which leads in particular to a slowdown and / or reduction in epidermal regeneration. Cell regeneration is therefore no longer able to compensate for the loss of cells removed from the surface, leading to epidermal atrophy and / or a decrease in skin thickness and / or a loss of skin elasticity and / or firmness.

[0009] Alterations in epidermal homeostasis are also reflected in the complexion of the skin, which appears dull and / or blurred.

[0010] This phenomenon may be accentuated by menopause, when women complain of tight, dry skin and even the appearance of xerosis. The hormonal deficiency associated with menopause is particularly accompanied by a decline in metabolic activity, which may result in a decrease in keratinocyte proliferation and an increase in epithelial differentiation.

[0011] It would therefore also be advantageous to have available compositions capable of promoting skin homeostasis, to maintain and / or increase skin thickness, thus improving and / or increasing skin mechanical properties and / or promoting radiant complexion.To date, many biobased active ingredients are known for treating skin aging, such as salicylic acid phytosphingosine derivatives, microbial lysates or adaptogens of the species of the genus Bifidobacterium, fermentation extracts obtained from bacteria, such as Sphingomonas hydrophobicum.

[0012] Among these ingredients, the fermentation product from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum is known to contain glycosphingolipids (GSLs), such as ceramide, dihydrosphingosine and glucuronic acid, and is popular for preventing skin aging due to its reduction of lipid peroxidation and its function as a major biomarker of aging. Furthermore, the inventors found that when combined with other anti-aging actives, such as a microbial lysate of Bifidobacterium species, the combination significantly promoted nidogen expression, indicating the anti-aging potential of the combination.

[0013] Meanwhile, the texture and appearance of cosmetics are also major factors for consumers. Serums with dense texture and opaque appearance are always preferred by consumers due to their nourishing and luxurious cues. Up to now, various types of serums with desired texture and appearance are available on the market.

[0014] However, to the best of the inventors' knowledge, there is no prior art that discloses a serum with the desired texture and appearance for anti-aging, which contains the fermentation product obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum. It is difficult to simply combine any kind of serum with an active agent and make it stable over time. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0015] [Patent Document 1] European Patent Application No. 0955039 [Patent Document 2] French Patent No. 0853634 [Patent Document 3] U.S. Patent No. 4,464,362 [Patent Document 4] European Patent No. 0043128 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0016] Thus, there is a need to formulate stable compositions with desirable texture and translucent appearance for caring for the skin, particularly for treating skin aging.

[0017] Additionally, there exists a need to formulate such compositions with good skin feel, such as moisture retention and moisturizing feel. [Means for solving the problem]

[0018] Applicants have discovered that such needs can be met by formulating a combination of an oil, a hydrophilic gelling agent, a fermentate obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum, and certain surfactants.

[0019] More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a medicament for use in a method for producing a medicament comprising the steps of: (a) at least one oil, in an amount of 3% by weight or less based on the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (c) a fermentation product obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum; (d) at least one oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester; The present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising:

[0020] The present invention also relates to a method for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, which comprises applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous materials.

[0021] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

[0022] The present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for treating skin aging.

[0023] By "keratinous material" we intend to mean human keratinous material, and more particularly the skin.

[0024] By "desired hand" we intend that the compositions of the present invention provide a desired viscosity.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, the viscosity of the composition of the present invention can be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art, in particular by the following conventional method. For example, the measurement can be carried out at 25° C. using a Rheomat 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm. Those skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from spindles M1, M2, M3 and M4 based on general knowledge so that the measurement can be carried out.

[0026] By "translucent appearance" we intend to mean that the turbidity of the compositions of the present invention is between 400 and 8000 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) at 25°C.

[0027] More preferably, the turbidity of the compositions of the present invention ranges from 800 NTU to 7500 NTU, more preferably between 1000 NTU and 7500 NTU at 25°C.

[0028] The turbidity of the compositions of the present invention is measured at 25° C. using a Hach 2100P Turbidimeter machine.

[0029] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent from a reading of the following detailed description and examples.

[0030] In the following description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within the range, particularly in the expressions "between" and "in the range from".

[0031] Furthermore, as used in this description, the phrase "at least one" is equivalent to the phrase "one or more." DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0032] (a) oil The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils or mixtures thereof.

[0033] The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0034] The term "volatile" means an oil capable of evaporating in less than one hour on contact with keratinous materials at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature and have in particular a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular a vapour pressure in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), preferentially in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).

[0035] The term "non-volatile" means an oil that has a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa), and better still less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0036] 1. Silicone oil The term "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular containing Si-O groups.

[0037] The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention are, in particular, silicone oils having a viscosity of 9 centistokes (cSt) at 25° C. (9×10 -6 m 2 / s), preferably less than 800000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600000 cSt, preferably between 100 and 500000 cSt. The viscosity of the silicone oil can be measured according to ASTM standard D-445.

[0038] Among these silicone oils, a distinction can be made between two types of oil, depending on whether they contain phenyl or not.

[0039] A. Non-volatile phenyl silicone oil or non-volatile phenylated silicone oil The expressions "phenylated silicone oil" or "phenyl silicone oil" mean a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.

[0040] Phenylsilicone oils may be selected from those having at least one dimethicone moiety or those having no dimethicone moieties.

[0041] According to the present invention, the dimethicone moiety corresponds to the formula: -Si(CH3)-O-.

[0042] More particularly, the non-volatile phenylsilicone oils can be chosen from: a) a compound having the following formula (I), with or without a dimethicone moiety:

[0043] [ka]

[0044] in which the R groups, independently of one another, represent a monovalent or divalent group, methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group represents phenyl.

[0045] Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil contains at least three phenyl groups, such as at least four, at least five or at least six.

[0046] b) a compound having the following formula (II), with or without a dimethicone moiety:

[0047] [ka]

[0048] in which the R groups, independently of one another, represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group represents phenyl.

[0049] Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil contains at least three phenyl groups, such as at least four or at least five.

[0050] Mixtures of the above-listed phenylorganopolysiloxanes may also be used.

[0051] Examples which may be mentioned are mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.

[0052] Among the compounds of formula (II), preferred embodiments are in particular phenylsilicone oils which are free of dimethicone moieties and correspond to formula (II) in which at least four or at least five R groups represent phenyl and the remaining R groups represent methyl.

[0053] Such phenylsilicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, in particular the tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) or sold by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid.

[0054] In particular, these silicone oils have the formula (III) or (III'):

[0055] [ka]

[0056] (wherein Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl).

[0057] c) a compound having the following formula (IV), with or without a dimethicone moiety:

[0058] [ka]

[0059] where Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents -CH2-CH(CH3)(Ph).

[0060] d) The following formula (V):

[0061] [ka]

[0062] (In the formula, - R1~R 10 are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 is a hydrocarbon group, m, n, p and q are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum of n+m+q is other than 0; and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Preferably, the sum of m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum of m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900, and better still between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.

[0064] Preferably, R to R 10 are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 30 , preferably C1 to C 20 , especially C1~C 16 represents a hydrocarbon group, preferably a saturated, monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C 14 , especially C 10 ~C 13 It represents an aryl group or an aralkyl group.

[0065] Preferably, R to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group. 10 may in particular be identical and may additionally be a methyl group.

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment, formula (V) of the present invention may be: i) Formula (VI):

[0067] [ka]

[0068] (In the formula, R1 to R6 are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 R1 to R6 are preferably C1 to C 30 An alkyl group, an aryl group, or an aralkyl group, more preferably a C6 to C 14 an aryl group, or a C1-C3 alkyl or aralkyl group; - m, n and p are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum of n+m is between 1 and 100; and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Preferably, R1 to R6 are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 to C 30 Hydrocarbon groups, preferably saturated, especially C1-C 20 Or C1~C 16 Hydrocarbon groups, especially C3-C 16 , more specifically C4~C 10 or monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C 14 , especially C 10 ~C 13R1 to R6 each represent an aryl group or an aralkyl group. Preferably, R1 to R6 each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group.

[0070] R1 to R6 may in particular be identical and may additionally be methyl groups. Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and / or n=0, and / or p=0 or 1 may apply to formula (VI).

[0071] According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenylsilicone oil of the invention is chosen from phenylsilicone oils having at least one dimethicone moiety.

[0072] Preferably, the oil corresponds to formula (VI): A) m=0, and n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 1 and 100.

[0073] Preferably, R1 to R6 are methyl groups.

[0074] Examples of such silicone oils are, for example, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone (e.g., KF-54 (400 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-54HV (5000 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-50-300CS (300 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-53 (175 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-50-100CS (100 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).

[0075] B) p is an integer between 1 and 100 and the sum of n+m is between 1 and 100, more preferably n=0.

[0076] Such phenylsilicone oils, with or without at least one dimethicone moiety, are in particular those of formula (VII)

[0077] [ka]

[0078] where Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a -OSiMe group, p is 0 or in the range between 1 and 1000, and m is in the range between 1 and 1000, in particular m and p are numbers such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

[0079] According to a first embodiment of the non-volatile phenylsilicone oil having at least one dimethicone moiety, p ranges between 1 and 1000 and m is a number such that compound (VII) is in particular a non-volatile oil. One that can be used is, for example, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold, inter alia, under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.

[0080] According to a second embodiment of the non-volatile phenylsilicone oil free of dimethicone moieties, p is equal to 0 and m ranges between 1 and 1000, in particular a number such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. One that can be used is, for example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, notably sold under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556).

[0081] ii) The following formula (VIII):

[0082] [ka]

[0083] (In the formula, R are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 R is a hydrocarbon group, preferably C1-C 30 R is an alkyl group, an aryl group, or an aralkyl group, and more preferably R is a C14 an aryl group or an aralkyl group having a C1-C3 alkyl group, - m and n are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum of n+m is between 1 and 100.

[0084] Preferably, R are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 30 Hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably saturated, in particular C1-C 12 Hydrocarbon groups, especially C3-C 16 , more specifically C4~C 10 or monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C 14 , especially C 10 ~C 13 It represents an aryl group or an aralkyl group.

[0085] Preferably, R may represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group, respectively.

[0086] R may in particular be identical and may additionally be a methyl group.

[0087] Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and / or n=0, and / or p=0 or 1 may apply to formula (VIII).

[0088] According to a preferred embodiment, in formula (VIII), n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum of n+m is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R is a methyl group.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, in formula (VIII), n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, with the proviso that the sum of n+m ranges from 1 to 100. More preferably, R is a methyl group.

[0090] According to one embodiment, the viscosity at 25°C is 5 to 1500 mm 2 / s (i.e., 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably with a viscosity of 5 to 1000 mm 2 / s (i.e., 5 to 1000 cSt), a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) can be used.

[0091] According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably phenyl trimethicone, such as DC556 (22.5 cSt) from Dow Corning, oil diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, such as KF-56A from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., oil Silbione 70663V30 (28 cSt) from Rhone-Poulenc. The values ​​in brackets represent the viscosity at 25°C.

[0092] According to this embodiment, when n=0, the silicone oil is preferably DC556 from Dow Corning, and when m and n are between 1 and 100, the silicone oil is preferably KF-56A from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0093] e) a compound having the following formula (IX), with or without a dimethicone moiety:

[0094] [ka]

[0095] (In the formula, R1, R2, R5 and R6, together or separately, are an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R3 and R4, together or separately, are an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl group, provided that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl group; X is an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, or a vinyl group; n and p are integers equal to or greater than 1, selected to provide the oil with a weight average molecular weight of less than 200,000 g / mol, preferably less than 150,000 g / mol, more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol; and mixtures thereof.

[0096] f) and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Examples of preferred non-volatile silicone oils, with or without the dimethicone moiety, which may be mentioned are, for example, the following silicone oils: - non-volatile phenyl silicone oils, preferably chosen from: tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane (for example PH-1554 HRI or Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning), trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (for example Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (see formula (V) above), phenyl trimethicone (for example the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone (for example KF-54 (400 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF54HV (5000 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-50-300CS (300 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.); cSt), KF-53 (175 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-50-100CS (100 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane (e.g., the product sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic fluid by Dow Corning) (see formula (III) above), diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone (e.g., KF-56A from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), - a non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), which is a polydimethylsiloxane containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, pendant and / or at the ends of the silicone chains; - A mixture of these.

[0098] B. Non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil The composition according to the invention may also comprise a non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil.

[0099] The expressions "non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil" or "non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil" are equivalent and both refer to silicone oils that do not have phenyl substituents.

[0100] Representative examples of these non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned are polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyldimethicones, vinylmethylmethicones and also silicones which are optionally further modified with fluorinated aliphatic groups or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

[0101] The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils are preferably selected from the dimethicone oils, which are preferably chosen from the polydimethylsiloxanes; the alkyl dimethicones.

[0102] "Dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

[0103] The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils include: non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), such as, for example, the polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 100 CST sold under the name Dowsil SH200 Fluid (100 cSt) by Dow Corning, or Belsil DM 100 sold by Wacker; - PDMS containing pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain alkyl or alkoxy groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyl dimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt; - PDMS containing functional groups such as aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, such as cetyl dimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, or polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with fluorinated groups, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxane, - polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, - polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof You can choose from.

[0104] These linear, nonvolatile, non-phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and silicones further optionally modified with fluorinated aliphatic groups, or silicones modified with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

[0105] The linear, nonvolatile, non-phenyl silicone oils are especially those of formula (I'):

[0106] [ka]

[0107] (In the formula, R1, R2, R5 and R6, together or separately, are an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R3 and R4, together or separately, are an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl group, an amine group, or a hydroxyl group; X is an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, or an amine group; n and p are, in particular, those having a viscosity of 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 -6 m 2 / s) to 800,000 cSt (wherein m is an integer selected to have a fluid composition that is between 100,000 cSt / s) and 800,000 cSt.

[0108] Non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils which can be used according to the invention include the following: the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent methyl groups and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name SE30 by General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500 000 by Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by Bluestar and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by Dow Corning, - the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent methyl groups and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60 000 CS by the company Dow Corning and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker; the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent methyl groups and p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning; - the substituents R1 to R6 represent methyl groups, the X group represents a hydroxyl group and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive; The following can be mentioned.

[0109] For purposes of the present invention, the composition may contain a volatile silicone oil.

[0110] Volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention can be chosen especially from silicone oils having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10 −6 m 2 / s), preferably greater than 0.5 cSt.

[0111] The volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention may be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40° C. to 150° C., preferably from above 55° C. to below 105° C., preferentially from 65° C. to 95° C. The flash point is measured in particular according to ISO standard 3679.

[0112] The volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils, for example from linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[0113] Among the volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned more particularly are decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold especially under the name DC-245 by Dow Corning, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, sold especially under the name DC-246 by Dow Corning, octamethyltrisiloxane, sold especially under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 cSt by Dow Corning, polydimethylsiloxanes, such as, for example, those sold especially under the name DC-200 Fluid 1.5 cSt by Dow Corning and those sold especially under the name DC-200 Fluid 5 cSt by Dow Corning. Examples include decamethyltetrasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), KF 96A from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and mixtures thereof.

[0114] 2. Hydrocarbon oil The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" (or "hydrocarbonated oil" or "hydrocarbon oil") means an oil essentially formed or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and which does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0115] These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0116] A. Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbonated oil (also called apolar "hydrocarbon-based" oil).

[0117] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" refers to an oil having a solubility parameter, da, at 25° C., of less than 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 This means oil equivalent to

[0118] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space is described in the article "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" by CM Hansen, J. Paint Technol, Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967).

[0119] According to this Hansen space, - dD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, - dp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between the permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between the induced dipoles and the permanent dipoles, - dh characterizes the specific interaction force (e.g. hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.), and - da is the equation: da=(dp2+dh2) 1 / 2 is determined by.

[0120] The parameters dp, dh, dD and da are expressed in terms of (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as:

[0121] Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbonated oils may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.

[0122] In particular, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbonated oil is selected from the group consisting of: - liquid paraffin or its derivatives, - Squalane, - Iso-eicosan, - naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g / mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g / mol), sold or manufactured by the company Amoco; - Polyisobutene hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as, for example, Parleam® sold by NOF Corp., Panalane H-300 E (MW=1340 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco, Viseal 20000 (MW=6000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Synteal and Rewopal PIB 1000 (MW=1000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Witco, or Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corp. - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14; polydecene and hydrogenated polydecenes, such as Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g / mol) manufactured or sold by Mobil Chemicals, or Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical, and - A mixture of these You can choose from.

[0123] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably chosen from polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene and / or hydrogenated polydecene, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] B. Non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention may comprise one or more non-volatile polar hydrocarbonated oils.

[0125] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" refers to an oil having a solubility parameter da at 25° C. of 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 Not oil.

[0126] These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0127] In particular, the additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils are: - vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, jojoba oil or caprylic and / or capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold under the name Myritol® 318 by the company Cognis (BASF); an ester oil preferably chosen from: fatty acid esters, especially those having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular those of octanoic, heptanoic, lanolic, oleic, lauric or stearic acid, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; - synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is 16, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 ~C 15Alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoic acid alcohol or polyalcohol, decanoic acid ester or ricinoleic acid ester, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, palmitate 2-ethylhexyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate; preferably, the preferred synthetic esters R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which contains from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and is especially branched, are such that R1+R2 is 20; - linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW=697 g / mol); - hydroxylated esters, preferably those having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (MW=965 g / mol), isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol); - C of branched fatty alcohols or fatty acids 24 ~C 28Esters, such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0955039, in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW=1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW=697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM=891 g / mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW=1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW=1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW=1232 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW=1538 g / mol), - Formula (II'):

[0128] [ka]

[0129] (In the formula, R1, R2 and R3 are the same or different and each represents H or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 30 represents an alkyl chain, At least one of R1, R2 and R3 is different from H; R4 represents H or a R'4-CO- group, where R'4 represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C1-C8 alkyl group); and mixtures thereof, Mention may be made, for example, of the ingredient acetyl tributyl citrate, such as that sold under the name Citroflex A4 by the company Vertellus.

[0130] - optionally unsaturated polyesters obtained by esterifying at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride with aliphatic mono- and dicarboxylic acids, such as the succinic and isostearic castor oils sold under the reference Zenigloss by the company Zenitech; - General formula HO-R1-(-OCO-R2-COO-R1-) h-OH(in the formula, R1 represents the residue of a diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid, R2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic acid residue; and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9), In particular, esters of dilinoleyl diacid and dilinoleyl diol dimer, sold under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7® by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols, such as those described in French Patent No. 0 853 634, and in particular polyesters obtained, for example, by condensation of dilinoleic acid with 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, mention may be made, inter alia, of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or of copolymers of polyols with diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA; - fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms and which are preferably branched, such as, for example, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol; - fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example oleic acid; - oils of vegetable origin, for example sesame oil (820.6 g / mol); dialkyl carbonates in which the two alkyl chains are optionally identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis, - Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, for example vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 (MW=7300 g / mol) sold or manufactured by ISP Japan Co., Ltd.

[0131] C. Volatile Hydrocarbon Oils According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises a volatile hydrocarbonated oil, such as isododecane and / or isohexadecane.

[0132] Such compounds are compatible with non-volatile hydrocarbonated and silicone oils and improve the spreadability during application and transfer resistance of the deposit.

[0133] Volatile hydrocarbon oils are selected from hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C8-C 16 It may be selected from alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, and may in particular be n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from the group consisting of non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils, non-volatile polar hydrocarbonated oils or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the oil is a non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane, a compound represented by formula (II'):

[0136] [ka]

[0137] (In the formula, R1, R2 and R3 are the same or different and each represents H or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 30 represents an alkyl chain, At least one of R1, R2 and R3 is different from H; R4 represents H or a R'4-CO- group, R'4 represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C8 alkyl group), or a mixture thereof.

[0138] More preferably, the oil is selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 100 cST, acetyl tributyl citrate, or mixtures thereof.

[0139] According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one oil (a) is present in an amount less than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.001% to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] (b) Hydrophilic gelling agent The second composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional lipophilic gelling agent.

[0141] For purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound capable of gelling an aqueous phase without combining with polyvalent metal ions from the first composition.

[0142] The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

[0143] More specifically, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be selected from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents, or mixtures thereof.

[0144] Synthetic Polymer Gelling Agent For purposes of the present invention, the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is not naturally occurring and is not a derivative of a polymer of natural origin.

[0145] The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents contemplated by the present invention may or may not be particulate.

[0146] For purposes of the present invention, the term "particulate" when used in reference to a synthetic polymeric gelling agent means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.

[0147] More specifically, these polymers include, inter alia: modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the name Carbopol® by Goodrich (CTFA name: Carbomer); polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel™ and Norgel by Guardian or under the name Hispagel® by Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS® by Clariant (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS®, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such as Sepigel™ 305 by SEPPIC (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C 13~14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and Simulgel™ 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80); and mixtures thereof. You can choose from.

[0148] Preferably, these polymers are acrylate / C 10~30The copolymer may be selected from alkyl acrylate crosspolymers such as Carbopol® ultrez 20, Carbopol® ultrez 21, Permulen™ TR-1, Permulen™ TR-2, Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® ETD 2020, carbomers such as Synthalen® K, Carbopol® 980, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymers such as Aristoflex® SNC, acrylates copolymers such as Carbopol® Aqua SF-1, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymers such as Aristoflex® HMS, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate such as Aristoflex® AVC.

[0149] Preferably, these polymers are carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopol® products (carbomers), for example Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer and Pemulen products (acrylate / C) sold by the company Lubrizol. 10~30 Alkyl acrylate copolymers; polyacrylamides, such as Sepigel® 305 by SEPPIC (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C 13~14crosslinked copolymers such as those sold under the trademarks Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) or Simulgel™ 600; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) sold under the trademark Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Hoechst or Simulgel™ 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate / Polysorbate 80 / Sorbitan Oleate) sold by the company SEPPIC; copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as Simulgel™ NS and Sepinov EMT sold by the company SEPPIC. 10; and mixtures thereof.

[0150] Preferably, these polymers may be selected from glyceryl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers available under the trademark Lubrajel™ by ISP Technologies, Inc. (United Guardian Inc.), in particular in a form known as Lubrajel™ oil, which contains about 1.0% to 1.3% of glyceryl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer in aqueous glycerin (about 40% glycerin). Lubrajel™ oil also contains about 0.6% of PVM / MA copolymer (also known as methoxyethylene / maleic anhydride copolymer).

[0151] Natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents For the purposes of the present invention, the term "of natural origin" is intended to denote a polymeric gelling agent obtained by modification of a natural polymeric gelling agent.

[0152] These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

[0153] More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides.

[0154] In general, polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention can be homopolysaccharides, such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans, or heteropolysaccharides, such as hemicelluloses.

[0155] Likewise, they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan, or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.

[0156] In general, the polysaccharides may be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and polysaccharides of higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular cellulose and its derivatives, or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides, such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0157] In general, the polysaccharides may be selected from fructans, gellan, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran, cellulose and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, mannans, xylans, lignins, araban, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucans, glucomannan, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans, gum arables, gum tragacanth, gum ghatti, locust bean gum, galactomannans, such as guar gum and non-ionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gum, mucopolysaccharides, in particular chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof. These polysaccharides may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups, or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphorylation, amination, amidation or alkylation reactions, or by some of these modifications.

[0158] The resulting derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

[0159] Advantageously, the polysaccharide is xanthan gum.

[0160] Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. The structure consists of a backbone of β-D-glucose linked in β(1,4) bonds, similar to cellulose. One of the two glucose molecules has a trisaccharide side chain composed of α-D-mannose, β-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal β-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated at carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues have a pyruvate group attached in chelate form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged pyruvate and glucuronic acids are ionic and thus account for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies depending on the strain, the fermentation method, the conditions during the fermentation process and the post-purification process. These groups are converted to Na in commercial products. + , K + or Ca 2+ It can be neutralized by ions (Satia, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis against an acidic solution.

[0161] Xanthan gum has a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity (measured at 25° C. using a Brookfield viscometer of the LVT type at 60 rpm) of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa·s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum.

[0162] Xanthan gum is represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by Rhodia Chimie, Satiaxane® by Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), Novaxan® by ADM, and Kelzan® and Keltrol® by CP-Kelco.

[0163] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polysaccharides produced from microorganisms or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), xanthan gum or mixtures thereof.

[0164] According to the present invention, the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] (c) Fermentation product obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one fermentate obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum.

[0166] Sphingomonas were defined in 1990 as a group of strictly aerobic, chemoheterotrophic, Gram-negative rods that have ubiquinone 10 as the main respiratory quinone, glycosphingolipids (GSLs), especially ceramide, on the cell surface instead of lipopolysaccharide (LPS), and typically produce yellow-pigmented colonies.

[0167] By 2001, the genus contained more than 20 species, which were quite diverse in terms of phylogenetic, ecological and physiological characteristics. As a result, Sphingomonas was subdivided into different genera: Sphingomonas, Sphingobium, Novosphingobium, Sphingosinicella and Sphingopyxis. These genera are generally collectively referred to as sphingomonads. Sphingomonads are widely distributed in nature and have been isolated from many different terrestrial and aquatic habitats, as well as from plant root systems, clinical specimens and other sources, due to their ability to survive at low concentrations of nutrients and metabolize a wide variety of carbon sources. A large number of strains have been isolated from environments polluted with toxic compounds, showing the ability to use pollutants as nutrients.

[0168] Some sphingomonads (notably Sphingomonas paucimobilis) also play a role in human diseases causing a range of mostly non-life-threatening hospital-acquired infections that are easily treated by antibiotic therapy.

[0169] According to the present invention, Sphingomonas fermentation extract is an extract of the product obtained by fermentation of Sphingomonas. It is known to contain glycosphingolipids (GSLs), such as ceramide, dihydrosphingosine and glucuronic acid, and is popular for preventing skin aging due to its function as a primary biomarker of aging and for its reduction of lipid peroxidation. Furthermore, the inventors found that when combined with other anti-aging actives, such as the lysate of a microorganism of the Bifidobacterium species, the combination significantly promoted nidogen expression, indicating the anti-aging potential of the combination.

[0170] Active ingredients of this type that may be mentioned, for example, are those sold under the name Hebelys® by the company Greentech.

[0171] According to the present invention, the fermentation product obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2% by mass, preferably from 0.001% to 1.5% by mass, and more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0172] (d) Oxyalkylenated ethers of sugar fatty acid esters According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester.

[0173] The oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester may contain from about 1 to about 200 moles, preferably from about 10 to about 100 moles, more preferably from about 15 to about 50 moles of oxyalkylenated groups, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester has from about 1 to about 200 moles, preferably from about 10 to about 100 moles, more preferably from about 15 to about 50 moles of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures thereof, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[0174] Preferably, the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester has from about 1 to about 200 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from about 10 to about 100 moles, more preferably from about 15 to about 50 moles, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[0175] The sugar fatty acid ester can be an ester of various types of fatty acids and sugars, so long as the ester is cosmetically and dermatologically acceptable. As used herein, "cosmetically acceptable" or "dermatologically acceptable" is intended to mean that the composition is suitable for use for contact with human tissue, such as keratinous materials and mucous membranes, without excessive toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic reaction.

[0176] The sugar fatty acid ester is preferably a mono- or di-ester of a sugar. As used herein, "sugar" is intended to include oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds having at least four carbon atoms, with or without an aldehyde or ketone functional group, and with some alcohol functional group. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0177] Suitable sugars, non-limiting examples include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and derivatives thereof, such as alkylated, e.g. methylated derivatives, e.g. methylglucose. Preferably, the sugar is glucose or an alkylated derivative thereof, e.g. alkylglucose. As used herein, (alkyl)glucose is intended to include glucose, alkylglucose, and mixtures of glucose and alkylglucose.

[0178] The ester of sugar and fatty acid is preferably a mixture of the above-described sugar and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C fatty acid. 30 , for example C 12 ~C 22 They are selected from esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids. When unsaturated, these compounds can have 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, which may be conjugated or non-conjugated.

[0179] The esters may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0180] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonic acid esters or mixtures thereof, for example mixed esters of oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate.

[0181] For example, mono- and di-esters may be used in the present invention.Preferably, the sugar fatty acid esters may include mono- or di-oleic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleopalmitic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleostearic acid of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0182] Oxyalkylenated ethers of sugar fatty acid esters that can be preferably used in the present invention include, for example, oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of a diester of stearic acid with methyl glucose containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), polyethylene glycol ethers of a mixture of monoesters and diesters of stearic acid with methyl glucose containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, for example Glucamate® SSE-20 sold by the company Lubrizol). These oxyalkylenated ethers can be used alone or in combination.

[0183] According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester is an ethoxylated (alkyl) glucose fatty acid ester. Among the ethoxylated (alkyl) glucose fatty acid esters, ethoxylated (alkyl) glucose stearates are preferred, in particular PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate.

[0184] The amount of the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester is preferably 0.001% to 2% by mass, preferably 0.001% to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.05% to 0.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the mascara composition.

[0185] (e) Aqueous Phase The compositions of the present invention may comprise at least one continuous aqueous phase.

[0186] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises water, optionally in admixture with water-soluble additives and / or solvents.

[0187] The aqueous phase may also contain organic solvents miscible with water (at room temperature 25° C.), such as monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols, in particular having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferentially having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (in particular having 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0188] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the composition of the invention comprises a polyol, in particular glycerol, caprylyl glycol or propylene glycol, and a monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0189] Preferably, the aqueous phase may contain additional anti-aging active ingredients. Mention may be made of microorganisms of the Bifidobacterium species.

[0190] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the microorganisms of the Bifidobacterium species utilized as active agents according to the invention are used in the form of a lysate.

[0191] Lysate generally refers to the material obtained at the end of the disruption or dissolution of biological cells, a phenomenon called cell lysis, thus resulting in the release of biological intracellular components naturally contained in the cells of the considered microorganism.

[0192] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lysate" is used without distinction to denote the entire lysate or only a fraction thereof obtained by lysis of the microorganism considered.

[0193] The present invention therefore relates to the use of a lysate of Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof.

[0194] The lysate used is therefore formed wholly or partly from intracellular constituents of the organism and from constituents of the cell walls and membranes.

[0195] More specifically, it contains enzymes such as lactate dehydrogenase, phosphatase, phosphoketolase and transaldolase, as well as cytoplasmic cell fractions that contain metabolic products. By way of illustration, cell wall components are, in particular, peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptides and teichoic acids, and cell membrane components are composed of glycerophospholipids.

[0196] This cell lysis can be achieved by various techniques, for example by osmotic shock, heat shock, ultrasound or else mechanical stress of centrifugation type.

[0197] More particularly, this lysate can be obtained according to the technique described in US Pat. No. 4,464,362, in particular according to the following protocol.

[0198] Microorganisms of the type of Bifidobacterium species considered are cultured anaerobically in a suitable culture medium, for example according to the conditions described in the documents US Pat. No. 4,464,362 and EP 0043128. When the stationary phase of growth is reached, the culture medium can be inactivated, for example by pasteurization at a temperature of 60-65° C. for 30 minutes. The microorganisms are then recovered by conventional separation techniques, for example by membrane filtration, centrifugation and resuspension in a sterile solution of NaCl at physiological concentrations. A lysate can be obtained by disintegrating such a medium with ultrasound to release the cytoplasmic fraction, cell wall fragments and metabolic products. All components in the natural distribution are then stabilized with a weakly acidic aqueous solution.

[0199] Thus, a lysate is generally obtained having an active substance concentration of the order of magnitude of 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular 1% to 20% by weight, especially approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight.

[0200] The lysate can be used in various forms, either in the form of a solution or in powder form.

[0201] The microorganisms most particularly suitable for the present invention belong to the species of the genus Bifidobacterium, selected from the species Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, and mixtures thereof.

[0202] The species Bifidobacterium longum is most particularly suited to the present invention.

[0203] The lysate may advantageously be the lysate registered under the INCI name: Bifidat fermentation lysate, the EINECS name: Bifidobacterium longum, the EINECS number: 306-168-4 and the CAS number: 96507-89-0.

[0204] The product sold under the name Repair Complex CLR® by the company K. Richter GmbH and formed from an inactivated lysate of the species Bifidobacterium longum is within the context of the present invention.

[0205] The amount of the aqueous phase may range, for example, from 70% to 99% by weight, preferably from 75% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0206] The aqueous phase can also contain other additives, such as water-soluble active ingredients, preservatives, salts, fillers, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, water-soluble dyes, and the like.

[0207] (f) Oily phase The composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to the oils described hereinabove, at least one dispersed oily phase.

[0208] The amount of the oily phase may range, for example, from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] (g) Galenic Form Advantageously, the composition of the invention is a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous materials and may be in the form of a serum, a lotion, a toner, a cream or a spray. Preferably, the composition of the invention is in the form of a serum.

[0210] The compositions according to the invention are stable over time.

[0211] "Stable over time" is understood to mean that the compositions of the invention do not show any visible changes in color, odor or viscosity, any variation in pH or any variation in visual appearance after storage for 2 months at all temperatures between 4°C and 45°C.

[0212] (h) Method and Use The composition of the present invention can be used for cosmetic processes, such as cosmetic processes or methods for caring for keratinous materials, such as the skin, in particular the face and lips, by being applied to the skin, in particular the face.

[0213] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for the skin, especially the face.

[0214] The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, which comprises applying at least one composition according to the invention to the surface of the keratinous materials, the keratinous materials being preferably the skin, in particular the face.

[0215] The following examples are intended to illustrate compositions and methods according to the present invention, but are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any manner. EXAMPLES

[0216] Preparation and Evaluation of Inventive and Comparative Formulations

[0217] Inventive formulations A-A5 and comparative formulations B-D were compounded and evaluated using a Hach Turbidmat and Rheomat 180 viscometer and Turbidimeter, respectively, at 25°C.

[0218] The formulations and results are presented in Tables 1 and 2.

[0219] [Table 1]

[0220] [Table 2]

[0221] It can be seen from the two tables that inventive formulation A exhibits a pleasant translucent appearance and good hand feel, while comparative formulations B-D all have defects in appearance and hand feel. Besides, among all inventive formulations A1-A5, inventive formulation A1, as one particular embodiment, exhibits superior hand feel and appearance compared to the other formulations.

Claims

1. (a) at least one oil, in an amount of 3% by weight or less based on the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (c) a fermentation product obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum; (d) at least one oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester; 1. A composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising:

2. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils, non-volatile polar hydrocarbonated oils, or mixtures thereof.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil is selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 100 cSt, acetyl tributyl citrate or mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil (a) is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polysaccharides produced from microorganisms or mixtures thereof.

6. 6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. 7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the fermentate obtained from Sphingomonas hydrophobicum is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. 8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of mono- and diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid containing 20 moles of ethylene oxide, or mixtures thereof.

9. 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oxyalkylenated ether of a sugar fatty acid ester is present in an amount of from 0.001% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising at least one microorganism of the Bifidobacterium species.

11. 11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the microorganism of the Bifidobacterium species is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 to said keratinous materials.

13. 12. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for caring for, in particular for treating, skin ageing.

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