Hair colorant composition
By adopting a low pH value and buffering system in the chromogen formulation, combined with a small amount of oxidant and radical scavenger, the stability and safety of existing chromogens in high pH and high oxidant environments are solved, and effective treatment of natural gray hair and efficient and safe chromogenic effect are achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2021556545
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-03-18
- Filing Date
- 2020-03-18
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-21
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-03-18
AI Technical Summary
The existing chromogens require a high pH environment and a high oxidation dose when used, resulting in high requirements for the stability and safety of the chromogen, and also inconvenient treatment of natural gray hair.
A new hair colorant formula was developed, using a low pH (less than 9) and a buffering system to maintain a pH between 6-8, and a small amount of oxidant (less than 2% by weight) was used, while adding a radical scavenger to reduce damage to hair.
It achieves a stable and safe hair color effect under low pH and a small amount of oxidant, and can effectively reduce damage to hair during hair color. It is also suitable for natural gray hair treatment, avoiding unnatural color difference.
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Abstract
Description
[Background technology]
[0001] The permanent change in color of keratin fibers, particularly human hair, by application of hair dyes is well known. Complex chemical processes may be utilized to provide the consumer with the desired hair color and color intensity. Permanent hair dyes typically contain oxidative hair dye precursors, which can diffuse through the cuticle into the hair and into the cortex, where they can react with each other and with a suitable oxidizing agent to form the final dye molecules. Due to their large size, these resulting molecules cannot easily diffuse out of the hair during subsequent washing with water and / or detergent, thus resulting in the color permanence desired by the consumer. This reaction typically occurs in an aggressive environment at approximately pH 10, in the presence of an alkalizing agent, and in the presence of an oxidizing agent. Furthermore, consumers repeat this process periodically to maintain the desired hair color and shade, as well as color intensity, and to ensure continued and uniform coverage of the hair, including coverage of new hair growth.
[0002] Thus, the colorant composition should (i) provide a wide variety of resultant colors, (ii) be capable of being applied in a less aggressive pH environment, (iii) be capable of being applied using relatively low amounts of oxidizing agent, (iv) be easy to manufacture, have a suitable viscosity, and (v) be shelf-life stable.
[0003] When women encounter gray hairs, they almost always take one of two positions. First, there are those who have a trusting relationship with their hairdresser but are skeptical of the time, energy, and money required to dye their hair. This skepticism is often driven by the fact that dyeing gray hairs will cause them to grow out bit by bit from the roots. Second, there are those who accept the gray hairs as they are, strand by strand. They are likely to live with a natural, casual contentment; they have realistic expectations of aging and are okay with the gray hairs that will appear.
[0004] However, for various reasons, embracing the full grey hair by dying the rest of your hair grey may not be an option: you may feel that the grey does not look natural, you may not want to change the base grey colour, you may fear committing to continuing to dye your hair due to concerns about the transition to growth, and / or you may fear that once the grey colour fades, it may fade to a colour other than your natural grey (e.g. a brassy off-tone after fading). Summary of the Invention
[0005] Surprisingly, it has been found that the hair coloring compositions described herein can meet these needs not only at lower pH, but also with very small amounts of oxidizing agent. For example, the hair coloring compositions described herein have a pH of less than 9 and have a buffer system that maintains the pH of the composition between 6-8. Additionally, the hair coloring compositions described herein contain less than 2% by weight of at least one oxidizing agent, based on the total weight of the hair coloring composition. Additionally, the compositions exhibit low odor and substantially reduce damage to the hair fiber. Finally, the compositions described herein are compatible with current dye and dye precursor systems and provide excellent dye deposition with virtually no lift-up.
[0006] Also, it has been surprisingly found that the hair coloring compositions described herein address one or more of the above-mentioned fears that women who want to embrace gray hair may have. For example, the hair coloring compositions described herein provide a resultant gray color that fades within the gray color space and has little or no brassy off-tone appearance after fading. Furthermore, the compositions exhibit low odor, substantially reduce peroxide concentration, and substantially reduce hair fiber damage. Finally, the compositions described herein are compatible with current dye and dye precursor systems, providing excellent dye deposition and improved gray highlighting without substantial lift-up and without substantially altering the base gray hair color.
[0007] explanation: As used herein, the term "hair" to be treated may be "living", i.e. on a living body, or "non-living", i.e. a wig, hair piece or other collection of non-living keratinous fibers. Mammalian, preferably human, hair is preferred. However, wool, fur and other keratin-containing fibers are suitable substrates for compositions according to the present disclosure.
[0008] As used herein, the term "about" may allow for some variability in values or ranges, for example, within 10%, within 5%, or within 1% of a stated value or the limits of a stated range.
[0009] Unless otherwise specified herein, the term "substantially" as used herein refers to a majority or majority of at least about 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99%, 99.5%, 99.9%, 99.99%, or at least about 99.999% or more. In some cases, "substantially" means completely or 100%.
[0010] Unless otherwise specified herein, the term "substantially free" as used herein refers to a small or almost non-existent amount, such as less than about 10%, 5%, 2%, 1%, 0.5%, 0.01%, 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001%.
[0011] Values expressed in range format should be interpreted in a flexible manner so that not only the numerical values explicitly recited as range limitations, but also all individual numerical values or subranges encompassed within the range are included as if each numerical value and subrange were explicitly recited. For example, a range of "about 0.1% to about 5%" or "about 0.1% to 5%" should be interpreted to include not only about 0.1% to about 5%, but also the individual values (e.g., 1%, 2%, 3%, and 4%) and subranges (0.1% to 0.5%, 1.1% to 2.2%, 3.3% to 4.4%) within the indicated range. Unless otherwise indicated, the statement "about X to Y" has the same meaning as "about X to about Y". Similarly, unless otherwise indicated, the statement "about X, Y, or about Z" has the same meaning as "about X, about Y, or about Z".
[0012] In this document, the terms "a," "an," or "the" are used to include one or more unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. The term "or" is used to refer to a non-exclusive "or" unless otherwise indicated. Furthermore, any expressions or terms employed herein and not otherwise defined should be understood to be for descriptive purposes only and not for limiting purposes. The use of section headings is intended to aid in the reading of the document and should not be construed as limiting. Furthermore, information associated with a section heading may occur within or outside that particular section. Furthermore, all publications, patents, and patent documents referred to in this document are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety as if individually incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistent usage between this document and a document incorporated by reference, the usage of the incorporated reference should be considered as supplementary to the usage of this document, and in the event of an irreconcilable discrepancy, the usage of this document shall take precedence.
[0013] In the methods described herein, steps may be performed in any order without departing from the principles of the invention unless a temporal or operational order is explicitly recited. Furthermore, specified steps may be performed simultaneously unless express claim language dictates that they be performed separately. For example, a claimed step of performing X and a claimed step of performing Y may be performed simultaneously within a single operation, and the resulting process falls within the literal scope of the claimed process.
[0014] All percentages are by total weight of the composition unless otherwise stated. When multiple compositions are used during a treatment, the total weight to be considered is the total weight of all compositions simultaneously applied to the hair (i.e., the weight found "on the head") unless otherwise stated. All ratios are by weight unless otherwise stated. All molar concentrations are by total volume of the composition and are expressed as moles of ingredient in 1 liter of composition, or "moles / 1". When multiple compositions are used during a treatment, the total volume to be considered is the total volume of all compositions simultaneously applied to the hair (i.e., the volume found "on the head") unless otherwise stated.
[0015] As described herein, the present disclosure relates to a hair coloring composition comprising: i) at least one buffer system; ii) less than 2 wt. % of at least one oxidizing agent based on the total weight of the hair coloring or bleaching composition; iii) at least one gel network thickener system comprising: a) a first surfactant component selected from C14-30 alkyl phosphates, C14-C30 alkyl ether phosphate ester salts, and mixtures thereof; b) a second component selected from C14-C30 fatty alcohols; and c) a third surfactant component selected from polyoxyethylene C8-C30 alkyl ethers; wherein the composition has a pH of less than 9, and the buffer system maintains the pH of the composition between 6-8.
[0016] As described herein, the present disclosure provides at least one primary dye and at least one dye coupler each selected to provide a hair color in the CIE L*a*b* gray color space and a hair color that fades in the CIE L*a*b* gray color space, optionally at least one buffer system, at least one oxidizing agent less than 2% by weight based on the total weight of the hair coloring composition, and at least one gel network thickening agent system, wherein the hair coloring composition has a pH of less than 9, preferably about 8 or less, more preferably about 6 to about 8, and color fading of the hair color in the CIE L*a*b* gray color space is defined by the following L*a*b* values: -1 < a < 4, 0 < b < 12, and 25 < L < 80, relating to the hair coloring composition.
[0017] Buffer system According to the present disclosure, the composition may include at least one buffer system. The buffer system serves to maintain the pH of the composition described herein below 9. Further, the buffer system may serve to maintain the pH of the hair coloring composition described herein between 6 and 8.
[0018] The buffer system may be included in at least one oxidizing agent and at least one gel network thickening agent system. Or, the buffer system may be included as a component separate from at least one oxidizing agent and at least one gel network thickening agent system.
[0019] The buffer system can include a buffer acidic compound and a buffer alkaline compound. The buffer acidic compound is selected from the group consisting of organic acids and inorganic acids, such as the group consisting of sulfurous acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hyponitrous acid, nitrous acid, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, phosphorous acid, citric acid, malic acid, and mixtures thereof, or the group consisting of phosphoric acid, phosphorous acid, citric acid, malic acid, hydrochloric acid, hyponitrous acid, and mixtures thereof, or the buffer acidic compound is phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, hyponitrous acid, and mixtures thereof, or the buffer acidic compound is phosphoric acid.
[0020] The buffer alkaline compound is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal salts, amino acids and their salts, or the group consisting of glycine, alkali metal salts, amino acids, chlorides, nitrates and their salts, or the group consisting of chlorides, nitrates and / or phosphoric acid, alkali metal glycine and their salts, alkali metal phosphoric acid and its salts, or disodium phosphate and potassium chloride.
[0021] The buffer system may include a buffer acidic compound that is phosphoric acid and a corresponding buffer alkaline compound that is disodium phosphate. Alternatively, the buffer system may include a buffer acidic compound that is phosphoric acid and a corresponding buffer alkaline compound that is glycine, or a buffer acidic compound that is citrate and a corresponding buffer alkaline compound that is disodium phosphate, or a buffer acidic compound that is citrate and a corresponding buffer alkaline compound that is glycine.
[0022] The buffer acidic and alkaline compounds are present in amounts sufficient to provide a reference buffering effect equivalent to a buffer system containing 0.1% to 4% phosphoric acid and 0.1% to 4% disodium phosphate by weight of the total oxidizing agent in a ratio of phosphoric acid to disodium phosphate of 1:1 to 10:1, 1:1 to 5:1, or 1:2 to 1:1.
[0023] The buffer system may include a buffer acidic compound that is phosphoric acid and a corresponding buffer alkaline compound that is disodium phosphate, but any alternative buffer system may be used as long as it provides an equivalent buffering effect as the reference buffer system. The amount of the alternative buffer acidic compound may be calculated relative to the amount of phosphoric acid. The amount of the alternative buffer alkaline compound may be calculated relative to the amount of disodium phosphate.
[0024] Alkalizing Agent The hair coloring compositions described herein may include at least one alkalizing agent, which may function to adjust the pH of the hair coloring compositions described herein to a desired pH. The alkalizing agent includes a hydroxide ion source. In some examples, the alkalizing agent includes a hydroxide ion source of about 0.25 mol / L. Any source of these ions may be utilized. In particular, sources of sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium hydroxide and salts, and mixtures thereof, may be used.
[0025] It should also be understood that when the compositions described herein are used as hair coloring kits containing individually packaged components, the concentration of the ion source in any given component can be increased in proportion to the mixing ratio of the components to achieve a concentration of at least about 0.25 moles / L upon mixing of the components to provide a composition for application to the hair.
[0026] pH of the composition
[0027] As referred to herein, the compositions of the present disclosure have a pH of less than 9, from about 8 to about 6.
[0028] The pH of the compositions can be measured using either a Mettler Toledo MP220 or MP225 pH instrument equipped with a standard laboratory pH electrode. The instrument is calibrated using standard calibration procedures with standard calibration buffers before each use.
[0029] Oxidizing agent The compositions according to the present disclosure may include or be used in combination with a composition that includes a source of at least one oxidizing agent that can function primarily to accelerate the oxidation of at least one primary dye precursor described herein so that it can react with at least one dye coupler. For example, the oxidizing agent may be included in a concentration sufficient to minimize lift-up but accelerate the oxidation of at least one primary dye described herein so that it can react with at least one dye coupler.
[0030] Oxidizing agents for use herein include water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents. As defined herein, "water-soluble" means that at least 0.1 g, 1 g, or 10 g of the oxidizing agent can be dissolved in 1 liter of deionized water under standard conditions.
[0031] Any oxidizing agent known in the art can be utilized in the present disclosure. Water-soluble oxidizing agents include inorganic peroxygen materials capable of generating hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution. Water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents are well known in the art and include inorganic peroxygen salt bleaching compounds such as hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as sodium periodate and sodium peroxide, organic peroxides such as urea peroxide and melamine peroxide, and alkali metal salts such as perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulfates, and the like. These inorganic peroxygen salts can be incorporated as monohydrates, tetrahydrates, and the like. Alkyl and aryl peroxides, and / or peroxidases can also be used. Mixtures of two or more such oxidizing agents can be used if desired. The oxidizing agents can be provided in an aqueous solution or as a powder that is dissolved prior to use. Preferred for use in compositions according to the present disclosure are hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, and combinations thereof.
[0032] According to the present disclosure, the composition comprises less than 2.5 wt.%, or less than 2 wt.%, of at least one oxidizing agent, based on the total weight of the hair coloring composition, for example, from about 0.1 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, from about 0.5 wt.% to about 1.5 wt.%, from about 0.2 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, from about 0.5 wt.% to about 1 wt.%, or from about 1 wt.% to about 1.9 wt.%, of at least one oxidizing agent, based on the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
[0033] Gel Network Thickener According to the present invention, the hair coloring and bleaching composition comprises a gel network thickener system. The gel network thickener system of the present invention is typically provided in a dye composition, which is then mixed with an oxidation composition. The gel network thickener system of the present invention is defined as a thickener system comprising a third system. The system comprises a first anionic surfactant component selected from C14-C30 alkyl phosphates, C14-C30 alkyl ether phosphate salts, and / or mixtures thereof, a second component selected from C14-C30 fatty alcohols, and a third nonionic surfactant component selected from polyoxyethylene C14-C30 alkyl ethers.
[0034] Those skilled in the art will recognize that gel network thickener systems typically have a complex structure of networked lamellar bilayers and / or vesicles, sometimes crystals. These systems are particularly desirable because they typically have a creamy appearance and feel.
[0035] In particular, the gel network system of the present invention allows for easy and efficient mixing of the dye composition with the oxidizing composition containing a hydrogen peroxide source. Moreover, the gel network system provides a desired mixed viscosity level, independent of the developer composition and its viscosity prior to mixing. The latter property is particularly beneficial in professional hair coloring applications, for example in hair salons, where it is often particularly desirable to allow flexibility to utilize different types of developer compositions and / or viscosities.
[0036] Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the gel network thickener system components described in the present invention have the proper geometric arrangement in the gel network lamellar bilayer, preventing the bilayer from detaching, and therefore resisting viscosity loss.Furthermore, it is believed that the nonionic surfactant of the present invention is more inhibited from swelling due to the high ionic strength in the dye composition, and the ionic surfactant provides stability, but after dilution with the oxidizing composition, the concentration of ions is reduced, causing the nonionic surfactant to re-swell, resulting in the necessary additional thickening.
[0037] The first surfactant component of the gel network thickener system is selected from C14-C30, preferably C14-C18 alkyl phosphates, C14-C30, preferably C14-C18 alkyl ether phosphate ester salts, and / or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the alkyl ether phosphate ester salts have an average value of 1-20, most preferably 1-10 ethylene oxide units.
[0038] According to the present invention, the gel network system of the present invention comprises as a second component a linear or branched C14-C30 fatty alcohol and / or a mixture thereof. Most preferably, the second component is selected from cetyl, stearyl, cetostearyl, or behenyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof. Typically, the second component may be included in the dye composition, or in the oxidation composition, or in both, and preferably, the second component is included in both compositions. The second component helps to stabilize the gel network system and also helps to maintain the desired rheological range, especially at the upper limit, to prevent excessive stickiness.
[0039] The third surfactant component of the gel network thickener system is a non-ionic surfactant selected from polyoxyethylene C14-C30 alkyl ethers containing one or more polyethylene oxide chains, preferably having at least 50, preferably about 50-200, most preferably about 100-200 ethylene oxide units. Suitable surfactants include steareth-100, steareth-150, steareth-200, and mixtures thereof. The third surfactant component acts as a co-emulsifier and stabilizer for the gel network system. Additionally, without being bound by theory, the third surfactant aids in the formation of a soft, smooth composition.
[0040] Multiple surfactants and / or components of each of the specific classes of surfactants and components listed above may be used in the gel networks of the present invention.
[0041] Radical Scavenger The first composition and / or the second composition may include one or more radical scavengers. The one or more radical scavengers in the first composition and / or the second composition may be present in an amount sufficient to reduce damage to hair during an oxidative bleaching or coloring process.
[0042] The radical scavenger(s) may be a species capable of reacting with a radical species, preferably a carbonate radical, to convert the radical species to a less reactive species through a series of fast reactions. The radical scavenger(s) may be advantageously selected such that the radical scavenger(s) is different from the alkalizing agent and / or is present in an amount sufficient to reduce damage to the hair during the coloring / bleaching process.
[0043] The one or more radical scavengers of the first composition and / or the second composition may be selected from the group consisting of benzylamine, glutamic acid, salicylic acid, imidazole, di-tert-butylhydroxytoluene, hydroquinone, catechol, and mixtures thereof.
[0044] Hair dye The hair compositions of the present disclosure are preferably hair coloring compositions that include oxidative dye compositions. Such compositions include oxidative hair dye precursors (also known as "primary intermediates," "primary dyes," or "dye intermediates," such as at least one primary dye described herein) that deliver a variety of hair colors to hair. These small molecules are activated by an oxidizing agent and react with additional molecules or dye couplers to form larger colored complexes in the hair shaft.
[0045] The hair dye precursors can be used alone or in combination with other hair dye precursors, and one or more can be used in combination with one or more couplers. Couplers (also known as "color modifiers" or "secondary intermediates") are generally colorless molecules that can form color in the presence of activated precursors and are used with other precursors or couplers to produce specific color effects or stabilize color. The choice of precursors and couplers is determined by the color, shade, and intensity of the coloring desired. The hair dye precursors and couplers can be used alone or in combination herein to provide dyes with a variety of shades ranging from ash blonde to black, but preferably gray in the case of this disclosure.
[0046] These compounds are well known in the art and include aromatic diamines, aminophenols, aromatic diols, and their derivatives (a representative but non-exhaustive list of oxidation dye precursors can be found in Sagarin, “Cosmetic Science and Technology”, “Interscience, Special Edn. Vol. 2, p. (See US Pat. Nos. 308-310). It should be understood that the precursors detailed below are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the compositions and processes herein. These are as follows: 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene (1,7-naphthalenediol), 1,3-diaminobenzene (m-phenylenediamine), 1-methyl-2,5-diaminobenzene (toluene-2,5-diamine), 1,4-diaminobenzene (p-phenylenediamine), 2-methoxymethyl-1,4-benzenediamine (MBB), 1,3-dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol), 1,3-dihydroxy-4-chlorobenzene, (4-chlororesorcinol), 1-hydroxy-2-aminobenzene, (o-aminophenol), 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene (m-aminophenol), 1-hydroxy-4-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-5-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-6-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-7-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-8-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-9-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-10-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-11-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-12-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-13-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-14-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-15-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-16-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), 1-hydroxy-17-amino-benzaldehyde, (p-phenylenediamine), benzene (p-aminophenol), 1-hydroxynaphthalene (1-naphthol), 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene (1,5-naphthalenediol), 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene (2,7-naphthalenediol) 1-hydroxy-2,4-diaminobenzene (4-diaminophenol), 1,4-dihydroxybenzene (hydroquinone), 1-hydroxy-4-methylaminobenzene (p-methylaminophenol), 6-hydroxybenzo-morpholine (hydroxybenzomorpholine), 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-aminobenzene (4-amino-2-hydroxy-toluene), 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid (3,4-diaminobenzoic acid), 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-(2'-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene (2-methyl-5-hydroxy-ethylamino-phenol), 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene (1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzene), 1-phenol-3-methylpyrazol-5-one (phenylmethylpyrazolone), 1-(2'-hydroxyethyloxy)-2,4-diaminobenzene (2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol HCL), 1-hydroxy-3-amino-2,4-dichlorobenzene (3-amino-2,4-dichloro-phenol), 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene (2-methylresorcinol), 1-amino-4-bis-(2'-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene (N,N-bis(2-hydroxy-ethyl)-p-phenylene-diamine), 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine (HC Red 16), 1-hydroxy-3-methyl-4-aminobenzene (4-amino-m-cresol), 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-methylbenzene (6-amino-m-cresol), 1,3-bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane (1,3-bis-(2,4-diamino-phenoxy)-propane), 1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzene (hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulfate), 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, (2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole) 1-hydroxy-2-methyl-5-amino-6-chlorobenzene (5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol), 1-hydroxy-2-amino-6-methylbenzene (6-amino amino-o-cresol), 1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene (hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy-aniline HCl), 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine (2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine), 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine (2,6-dimethoxy-3,4-pyridinediamine), 5,6-dihydroxyindole (dihydroxy-indole), 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol (2-aminoethyl-p-amino-phenol HCl), 2,4-diamino-5-methylphenetole (2,4-diamino-5-methyl-phenetole HCl), 2,4-diamino-5-(2'-hydroxyethyloxy)toluene (2,4-Diamino-5-methylphenoxyethanol HCl), 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol (5-amino-4-chloro-o-cresol), 4-amino-1-hydroxy-2-(2'-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)benzene (hydroxyethylaminomethyl-p-aminophenol HCl), 4-amino-1-hydroxy-2-methoxymethylbenzene (2-methoxymethyl-p-aminophenol HCl), 1,3-bis(N(2-hydroxyethyl)N(4-amino-phenyl)amino)-2-propanol (hydroxypropyl-bis-(N-hydroxy-ethyl-p-phenylenediamine) HCL), 6-hydroxyindole (6-hydroxy-indole), 2,3-indolidinedione (isatin), 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine (HC BLUE NO.7), 1-phenyl-3-methyl-5-pyrazolone-2,4-dihydro-5,2-phenyl-3H-pyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine (2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine), 5-amino-salicylic acid, 1-methyl-2,6-bis(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene (2,6-hydroxyethylamino-toluene), 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine (2,5,6-triamino-4-pyrimidinol sulfate), 2,2'-[1,2-ethanediyl-bis-(oxyethylamino)phenyl] ... 2,4-Diamino-5-fluorotoluene sulfate hydrate (4-fluoro-6-methyl-m-phenylenediamine sulfate) and 1-acetoxy-2-methylnaphthalene (1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate). These can be used in molecular form or in the form of a salt compatible with peroxides.
[0047] In some cases, the at least one primary dye is selected from p-aminophenol, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 3-methyl-p-aminophenol, methoxymethyl-1,4-diaminobenzene, 2,5-toluenediamine sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Additionally, the at least one dye coupler is selected from resorcinol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methylresorcinol, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, and mixtures thereof.
[0048] The hair coloring composition of the present disclosure may also include a non-oxidative hair dye, i.e., a direct dye, which can be used alone or in combination with at least the primary dye and at least one dye coupler described above. Suitable direct dyes include azo or anthraquinone dyes, and benzene-based nitro derivatives, and / or melanin precursors, and mixtures thereof. Such direct dyes are particularly useful for delivering shade modifications or highlights.
[0049] The hair dye compositions of the present disclosure generally include from about 0.001% to about 10% dye. For example, the compositions generally include from about 0.001% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, or from about 0.2% to about 1% precursors and couplers by weight of the dye composition. Darker shades include from 0.001% to about 10%, from about 0.05% to about 7%, or from about 1% to about 5% precursors and couplers by weight.
[0050] Surfactants Compositions according to the present disclosure may further comprise at least about 0.01% of one or more additional surfactants relative to those utilized in the gel network thickener system. Surfactants suitable for use herein generally have a lipophilic chain length of from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms and may be selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, and cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] polymer The composition of the present disclosure may optionally further comprise at least about 0.01% of a polymer. The polymer may be selected from, for example, an associative polymer, a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer, a crosslinked copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and (C1-C6) alkyl acrylate, or a polysaccharide. The polymer may also act as a conditioning agent, as described below. The polymer is generally used at a level of about 0.01% to about 20.0% by weight, or about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the composition.
[0052] Conditioning Agent The composition of the present disclosure may comprise or be used in combination with a composition that comprises conditioning agent.The conditioning agent suitable for use herein is selected from silicone materials, aminosilicones, fatty alcohols, polymeric resins, polyol carboxylic acid esters, cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, insoluble oils and oil-derived materials, and their mixtures.Additional materials include mineral oils, and other oils, such as glycerin and sorbitol.
[0053] Conditioning agents are generally used at a level of from about 0.05% to about 20%, from about 0.1% to about 15%, from about 0.2% to about 10%, or from about 0.2% to about 2% by weight of the composition.
[0054] Particularly useful conditioning materials are cationic polymers and silicones. The cationic polymer type conditioner can be selected from those already known by the skilled artisan as improving at least one cosmetic property of keratin fibers treated with the cosmetic composition. The cationic polymer can be selected from those that contain at least one amine group unit selected from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups, which can form part of the polymer backbone or be carried by a side substituent directly attached to the polymer backbone.
[0055] Silicones can be selected from polyalkylsiloxane oils, linear polydimethylsiloxane oils containing trimethylsilyl or hydroxydimethylsiloxane end groups, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polydimethylphenylsiloxanes, or polydimethyldiphenylsiloxane oils, silicone resins, organofunctional siloxanes that, in their general structure, have one or more identical or different organofunctional groups attached directly to the siloxane chain. The organofunctional groups are selected from polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups, (per)fluorinated groups, thiol groups, substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, carboxylate groups, hydroxylated groups, alkoxylated groups, quaternium ammonium groups, amphoteric and betaine groups. Silicones can be used as neat fluids or in the form of preformed emulsions.
[0056] Chelating Agents The compositions according to the invention may further comprise a chelating agent (also known as a "chelating agent", "sequestering agent" or "sequestrant") in an amount sufficient to reduce the amount of metal available for interaction with the formulation ingredients, particularly the oxidizing agent, more particularly the peroxide. Chelating agents are well known in the art and non-exhaustive lists can be found in AE Martell & RM Smith, Critical Stability Constants, Vol. 1, Plenum Press, New York & London (1974) and AE Martell & RD Hancock, Metal Complexes in Aqueous Solution, Plenum Press, New York & London (1996), both of which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0057] Typically, the compositions will contain a total amount of chelating agent(s) in the range of at least about 0.01%, alternatively from about 0.01% to about 5%, alternatively from about 0.25% to about 3%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 1%, by weight of the total composition.
[0058] Suitable chelating agents include, but are not limited to, carboxylic acids (e.g., amino carboxylic acids), phosphonic acids (e.g., amino phosphonic acids), polyphosphoric acids (e.g., linear polyphosphoric acids), their salts, and mixtures thereof. By "salts thereof" is meant, with respect to the chelating agents, all salts that contain the same functional structure as the chelating agents, including, but not limited to, alkali metal salts, alkaline earth salts, ammonium salts, substituted ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; or sodium salts, potassium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; or monoethanolammonium salts, diethanolammonium salts, triethanolammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] Suitable aminocarboxylic acid chelating agents contain at least one carboxylic acid moiety (--COOH) and at least one nitrogen atom. Suitable aminocarboxylic acid chelating agents include, but are not limited to, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediaminediglutaric acid (EDGA), 2-hydroxypropylenediaminedisuccinic acid (HPDS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N-N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenedicysteic acid (EDC), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), diaminoalkyldi(sulfosuccinic acids) (DDS), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable aminocarboxylic acid type chelating agents include, but are not limited to, iminodiacetic acid derivatives, such as N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetate or glyceryl iminodiacetate, iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid, β-alanine-N,N'-diacetate, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetate, aspartic acid-N-monoacetate and iminodisuccinic acid chelating agents, ethanol diglycinic acid, their salts, their derivatives, and their mixtures.Other suitable aminocarboxylic acid type chelating agents include, but are not limited to, dipicolinic acid, 2-phosphonobutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, their derivatives, and their mixtures.
[0060] Suitable aminophosphonic acid chelating agents include an aminophosphonic acid moiety (-PO3H2) or a derivative thereof, -PO3R2, where R2 is a C1-C6 alkyl or aryl group and salts thereof. Suitable aminophosphonic acid chelating agents include, but are not limited to, aminotri-(1-ethylphosphonic acid), ethylene-diaminetetra-(1-ethylphosphonic acid), aminotri-(1-propylphosphonic acid), aminotri-(isopropylphosphonic acid), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; or aminotri-(methylenephosphonic acid), ethylene-diamine-tetra-(methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP) and diethylene-triamine-penta-(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0061] Suitable alternative chelating agents include, but are not limited to, polyethyleneimine, polyphosphate chelating agents, etidronic acid, methylglycine diacetic acid, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)iminodiacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N',N''-ethylenediaminediacetic acid, salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] In certain embodiments, the composition comprises a chelating agent selected from the group consisting of diethylenetriamine-N,N',N''-polyacid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), diamine-N,N'-dipolyacid, monoaminemonoamide-N,N'-dipolyacid, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), etidronic acid (HEDP), salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0063] The chelating agent may be included in the at least one oxidizing agent and the at least one gel network thickener system, or may be included as a separate component from the at least one oxidizing agent and the at least one gel network thickener system, but in most cases, for stability reasons, the chelating agent is usually present along with the oxidizing agent.
[0064] solvent Suitable solvents for use in the compositions of the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, water, butoxydiglycol, propylene glycol, alcohol (denatured), ethoxydiglycol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol, benzyl alcohol, and dipropylene glycol.Finally, the compositions according to the present disclosure are therefore typically provided as aqueous compositions.The compositions of the present disclosure typically comprise at least about 10% by weight, about 20% by weight, about 30% by weight, or about 50% by weight of solvent.
[0065] polysaccharide The present invention further includes polysaccharides. Polysaccharides as used herein include, for example, glucans, modified and unmodified starches (e.g., from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as yellow pea, and tubers such as potato or cassaya), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, cellulose and its derivatives (methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, and carboxymethylcellulose), mannan, xylan, lignin, araban, galactan, galacturonan, chitin, chitin, glycan ... The gums are selected from among tosan, glucuronoxylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucan, glucomannan, pectic acid and pectin, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactan, carrageenan, agar, glycosaminoglucan, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, carob gum, galactomannans such as guar gum, and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar) and biopolysaccharides such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, welan gum, scleroglucan, succinoglycan, and mixtures thereof.
[0066] For example, suitable polysaccharides are described in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology" by Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Vol. 3, pp. 896-900, and Vol. 15, pp. 439-458, "Polymers in Nature" by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and "Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc.
[0067] The polysaccharide is preferably a biopolysaccharide, particularly preferred are biopolysaccharides selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, welan gum, scleroglucan or succinoglycan, such as the material sold under the name Keltrol® T by the company Kelco and the material sold under the name Rheozan® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and mixtures thereof. Most preferred are xanthan gum, succinoglycan and mixtures thereof, most preferred is xanthan gum.
[0068] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least about 0.05% of said polysaccharide, preferably about 0.05% to 0.125% of said polysaccharide, by weight of the composition.
[0069] Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the polysaccharides act as plasticizers and adhesion enhancers, particularly at the levels described above, which aids in improving root attachment.
[0070] viscosity According to the present invention, the composition has a viscosity of 9-16 Pas, preferably 9-15 Pas, more preferably 10-14 Pas, most preferably 11-13 Pas. In another application, it has a viscosity of 1-6 Pas, preferably 2.5-4 Pas. The viscosity is measured according to the test method defined below. This viscosity range allows the hair salon professional maximum flexibility in utilizing one of the many application techniques that any particular client may require, by providing a composition that has conditioner-like properties and is not too thick or sticky.
[0071] Additional Ingredients The compositions of the present disclosure may further comprise additional ingredients, including, but not limited to, additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers, solvents, enzymes, additional surfactants, conditioning agents, carriers, antioxidants, stabilizers, chelating agents, perm activators, fragrances, reducing agents (thiolactic acid), hair swelling agents and / or polymers, some of which are described in more detail below.
[0072] In some instances, the compositions of the present disclosure may further comprise up to about 10% by weight of charcoal, e.g., from about 1% to about 5% by weight, from about 3% to about 9% by weight, or from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of charcoal, e.g., activated charcoal.
[0073] In some instances, the composition of the present disclosure may further comprise at least one agent that provides benefits beyond color. For example, at least one agent that provides benefits beyond color can make hair more manageable. One example of such an agent is at least one conditioning agent. Examples of conditioning agents include silicone materials, aminosilicones, fatty alcohols, polymeric resins, polyol carboxylic acid esters, cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, insoluble oils and oil-derived materials, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples of oils include mineral oil, glycerin, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
[0074] How to use It will be understood that the examples of uses and embodiments described herein are for illustrative purposes only, and various modifications or changes in light thereof will be suggested to those skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the present disclosure.
[0075] After several minutes of mixing, particularly to ensure uniform application to all hairs, the compositions described herein are allowed to remain on the hair for a sufficient time (usually about 2-60 minutes, typically about 30-45 minutes) for the at least one primary dye and at least one dye coupler to react. The consumer then rinses the hair thoroughly with water and allows it to dry. It is observed that the hair has changed color from its original color to the desired color.
[0076] If present in the hair coloring compositions described herein, the optional conditioning agent may be provided in a separate additional container. The hair coloring compositions described herein may be mixed with the optional conditioning agent immediately prior to use and applied together, or the conditioner container may be applied as an immediate post-treatment (after any optional rinsing step) to the coloring compositions described herein.
[0077] According to the present disclosure, the method of coloring hair also includes an embodiment in which the hair coloring composition is applied to the hair and the mixture is allowed to work for several minutes (to ensure even application to all hairs). The composition is then allowed to remain on the hair for less than about 20 minutes, less than about 15 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 10 minutes, 2 minutes to about 60 minutes, about 40 minutes, or about 10 minutes to allow color development. The consumer then rinses the hair thoroughly with water and allows the hair to dry and style as usual. Such a method provides additional convenience to the consumer by allowing for faster coloring.
[0078] The above-mentioned kits are well known in the art, and the compositions in each container can be manufactured using any one of the standard approaches, including a) the "oil-in-water" process, b) the "phase inversion" process, and c) the "one-pot" process. For example, when using the "oil-in-water" process, the surfactant of the present disclosure is added to about 50% of the total water volume of the composition at about 90°C, homogenized for 15-30 minutes, and then cooled to room temperature to form a gel network thickener premix. This premix is then cooled and mixed with the remaining amount of water, other optional ingredients, and an oxidizing agent or hydroxide ion source, thus forming the first or second part of the above-mentioned coloring kit.
[0079] The present disclosure can be utilized in a variety of packaging and dispensing devices. These dispensing devices can be provided in the form of separate devices that can be used independently or in combination with each other. Typically, the hair coloring compositions are contained in separate single or multi-compartment containers so that the compositions can be stored separately from each other before use. The compositions are then mixed together by a mixing means and then applied to the consumer's hair by an application means. Thus, for example, in the hair coloring compositions described herein, the components corresponding to at least one oxidizing agent (the oxidizing agent may also be referred to as a "developer"), less than 2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, are contained in a separate container from the other components, such as the buffer system, the gel network thickener system, the primary dye (if present), and at least one coupler (if present). Both sets of components are mixed before use. A kit is disclosed that includes a first part containing at least one oxidizing agent and a second part containing other components for obtaining a hair coloring or bleaching composition as defined herein or for obtaining a hair coloring composition as defined herein.
[0080] One common packaging device that may be used in the present disclosure includes storing the developer in a container such as a bottle, tube, aerosol, or sachet, and storing the dye composition separately in an additional compartment in the developer container, or in a separate container that may be the same, for example, a dual sachet or aerosol system, or different, for example, a bottle and tube system. In some instances, the hair coloring compositions described herein may further include a pigment that exhibits the final color developed from the hair coloring composition. The pigment itself need not impart color to the hair. A dye or dye system may be present, which, for example, upon reaction with the developer, produces the final color developed from the hair coloring composition described herein.
[0081] The consumer can mix the dye composition with the developer composition, which comprises at least one primary dye and at least one dye coupler, by any means. This may simply involve the use of a mixing bowl into which the lotions are dispensed and then mixed, or the use of a mixing means such as a tool. Alternatively, it may involve adding one composition to a container of the other composition (typically the dye lotion is added to the developer lotion), followed by manual shaking or mixing with a tool. Another system involves piercing or replacing a seal located between separate compartments of the dye and developer compositions in a single container or sachet, followed by manual mixing within the container or in separate and / or additional containers.
[0082] One example of such a device is the so-called "Twist & Go" device. These devices allow a consumer to twist the base of a container (e.g., separate or the same container) that holds at least one primary dye and at least one dye coupler, opening a connection and exposing the base of a bottle that holds at least one primary dye and at least one dye coupler, and the top of the bottle that holds the developer. The two components are mixed and the consumer dispenses the product by squeezing the flexible top portion of the dispensing bottle.
[0083] Alternatively, more complex devices can be utilized to mix the developer, at least one primary dye, and at least one dye coupler upon actuation of dispensing. One example of such a complex system is a dual aerosol system, such as a bag-in-can or piston. The at least one primary dye, at least one dye coupler, and developer are stored separately in two aerosol cans in one device, and a propellant is used to apply pressure to the contents of the bag or piston in the can, and a valve provides control of dispensing. When the consumer activates the valve, the at least one primary dye, at least one dye coupler, and developer are dispensed simultaneously from the can and mixed by a static mixer just prior to dispensing the product onto the hair. The ratio of the at least one primary dye, at least one dye coupler, and developer can be manipulated by the viscosity of the product, the pressure in the can, or by changing the flow channel size through the valve. Additionally, the product can be whipped and delivered in a mousse form.
[0084] Another example of such a complex system utilizes a dual piston screw system. At least one primary dye, at least one dye coupler, and developer are held in separate piston cylinder systems within the system, and when the consumer activates a button, the two screws rotate and the internal dual pistons pressurize the liquids within the cylinders, forcing the product through a mixing station and out of a dispensing nozzle. The ratio of the at least one primary dye, at least one dye coupler, and developer can be manipulated by the diameter of the packaging cylinder. Additionally, an in-line static mixer can be used to assist in mixing, and such a system can be fully disposable or fully refillable.
[0085] Yet another system utilizes one or more manual pumps. The product can be premixed in a collapsible sachet. When the consumer activates the pump, the liquid in the pump is dispensed. When the manually activated pump returns to an upright position, the product is forced out of the collapsible sachet. Alternatively, a dual system can be set up using two sachets and two pumps to deliver at least one primary dye, at least one dye coupler, and developer lotion to the hair. Alternatively, a single pump connected to two sachets can deliver the product by incorporating a mixing point within the pump. Another embodiment uses a rigid bottle and a dip tube to connect the product to the pump system. Finally, a delaminating bottle can be used in combination with a manual pump, where the inner layer of the bottle peels away from the outer layer of the bottle, forcing the contents of the bottle out.
[0086] Typically, these complex systems offer the advantage of being able to apply the product independently of the orientation of the product.
[0087] The above mentioned devices may also be used in combination with product delivery and / or application tools to aid in the application of the product to the hair. Again, these devices may be of a very simple nature such as a nozzle attached to one of the containers or a separate applicator device such as a comb or brush. Such combs and brushes can be adapted to achieve specific effects such as quick and even coverage, root / hairline touch-up, highlights or streaks. Alternatively, the container or one of the containers may be provided with a comb attached to or instead of the dispensing nozzle, whereby the product is dispensed through dispensing openings located in the hollow tines and comb tines. The comb tines may be provided with single or multiple openings along the tines to improve application and evenness of the product, especially from root to tip. Dispensing of the product can be achieved by mechanical pressure applied to the container, for example a delaminating bottle or any of the above mechanisms described herein. The comb can be provided on the container for easy application and can be positioned vertically (so-called vertical combs) or at an angle to allow the consumer access to all areas. All devices can be designed to be interchangeable, providing the consumer with a variety of different tools for hair application.
[0088] Additional device technology can be used to aid in the penetration of the product into the hair, examples of such technology include heat devices, ultraviolet devices, and ultrasonic devices.
[0089] Viscosity Test Method Viscosity measurements are performed on a controlled stress rheometer using AR500, AR1000, or AR2000 type or equivalent equipment manufactured by TA Instruments. A 6 cm flat acrylic cross-hatched parallel plate geometry (TA item 518600.901), and a stainless steel cross-hatched base plate (TA item 570011.001) are used. The rheometer is prepared for flow measurements according to standard manufacturer's procedures. The gap of the parallel plate geometry is set to 1000 microns. The conditions for programming the flow procedure into the rheometer are as follows: a continuous stress ramp 0.1 to 300 Pa for 2 minutes at 25°C, including 250 measurement points in linear mode. The final hair coloring mixture is prepared by mixing the required portions of the composition, for example in a professional hair stylist's mixing bowl with a professional hair stylist's brush, to ensure a uniformly mixed consistency (standard mixing time 1 minute). The product is loaded into the geometric shape according to standard procedures and the measurements are started 5 minutes after the preparation of the mixture. The shear stress value at a shear rate of 10 s-1 is obtained from the shear stress vs. shear rate curve. The corresponding viscosity is calculated by dividing the obtained shear stress by 10.
[0090] Further embodiments of specific components of the present disclosure are described below.
[0091] Permanent changes in hair color through the application of hair dyes are well known. Complex chemical processes are utilized to provide consumers with the desired shade and color intensity. Permanent hair dyes typically contain oxidative dye precursors, which can diffuse through the cuticle into the hair and into the cortex where they react with each other and with a suitable oxidizing agent to form the final dye molecules. The resulting molecules are large in size and therefore cannot easily diffuse out of the hair during subsequent washing with water and / or detergent, thus resulting in the permanence of color desired by the consumer. This reaction typically occurs in an aggressive environment at approximately pH 10 in the presence of an alkalizing agent and an oxidizing agent. Typically, an oxidizing composition (also called a developer and / or oxidizing component) containing an oxidizing agent, a dye composition (also called a tint or dye component) containing an alkalizing agent, and precursor dye molecules, if present, are mixed immediately prior to use. The consumer repeats this process periodically to maintain the desired hair color and shade, as well as color intensity, and to ensure continued and even coverage of the hair, including coverage of new hair growth.
[0092] definition As used herein, the term "hair" to be treated may be "living", i.e. on a living body, or "non-living", i.e. a wig, hair piece or other collection of non-living keratinous fibers. Mammalian, preferably human, hair is preferred. However, wool, fur and other keratin-containing fibers are suitable substrates for the compositions according to the invention.
[0093] By "hair coloring" composition is meant a composition suitable for changing the color of hair. The hair coloring composition is hereinafter referred to as "the composition" unless otherwise specified. The hair coloring composition may contain oxidative dye precursors, direct dyes, or may be dye-free or substantially dye-free in the case of bleaching only compositions in which the color change is caused primarily by the decomposition of the natural melanin contained in the hair shaft by an oxidizing agent. As used herein, the term "hair coloring" composition encompasses hair bleaching and hair oxidation dyeing products.
[0094] All percentages are by weight of the hair coloring composition, i.e., the ready-to-use composition, unless otherwise specified. When multiple compositions are used during a treatment, the total weight to be considered is typically the total weight of all compositions simultaneously applied to the hair (i.e., the weight as seen "on the head") resulting from mixing the oxidizing composition (also called the developer and / or oxidizing composition / ingredients) with the dye composition (also called the tint and / or dye composition / ingredients), unless otherwise specified. All ratios or percentages are by weight or weight percent, unless otherwise specified.
[0095] Other Ingredients In addition to the components described above, the compositions according to the present invention may contain other components to further enhance the properties of the composition, unless these are excluded by the claims.
[0096] Suitable additional ingredients include, but are not limited to, solvents, oxidizing agents, alkalizing agents, oxidative dye precursors, direct dyes, chelating agents, radical scavengers, pH adjusters and buffers, thickening and / or rheology modifiers, carbonate ion sources, peroxymonocarbonate ion sources, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, and mixtures thereof, fragrances, enzymes, dispersing agents, peroxide stabilizers, antioxidants, natural ingredients (e.g., proteins, proteinaceous compounds, and botanical extracts), conditioning agents (e.g., silicones and cationic polymers), ceramides, preservatives, opacifying and pearlizing agents (e.g., titanium dioxide and mica), and mixtures thereof.
[0097] Suitable additional ingredients mentioned above but not specifically described below are listed in the International Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (8th ed.; The Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association). In particular, vol. 2, sections 3 (Chemical Classes) and 4 (Functions) are useful for identifying specific adjuvants that achieve a specific purpose or purposes. Some of these ingredients are discussed below, although the disclosure is of course not exhaustive.
[0098] solvent The composition according to the invention may further comprise a solvent, which may be selected from water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent for dissolving compounds that are typically not sufficiently soluble in water.
[0099] Suitable organic solvents include, but are not limited to, C1-C4 lower alkanols (e.g., ethanol, propanol, isopropanol), aromatic alcohols (e.g., benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol), polyols and polyol ethers (e.g., carbitol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethoxy glycol, butoxydiglycol, ethoxydiglycerol, dipropylene glycol, polyglycerol), propylene carbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0100] In one embodiment, the solvent may be selected from the group consisting of water, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0101] Typically, the composition may comprise water as a major component, specifically in a total amount ranging from at least about 50%, alternatively at least about 60%, alternatively at least about 70%, by weight of the total composition.Typically, when present, the composition comprises organic solvents in a total amount ranging from about 1% to about 30%, by weight of the total composition.
[0102] Oxidizing agent The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one source of oxidizing agent. Any oxidizing agent known in the art may be used. The preferred oxidizing agent is a water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agent. As used herein, "water-soluble" means that at least about 0.1 g, preferably about 1 g, more preferably about 10 g of the oxidizing agent can be dissolved in 1 liter of deionized water at 25°C under standard conditions. The oxidizing agent is useful for the initial solubilization and decolorization (bleaching) of melanin and promotes the oxidation of the oxidative dye precursors in the hair shaft (oxidative dyeing). In short, it is possible to completely remove the color by using a reducing or bleaching agent.
[0103] Typically, the composition may contain a total amount of oxidizing agent in the range of from about 0.1% to about 10%, alternatively from about 1% to about 7%, alternatively from about 2% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.
[0104] Suitable water-soluble oxidizing agents include, but are not limited to, inorganic peroxygen materials capable of generating hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution.
[0105] Suitable water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents include, but are not limited to, hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides (e.g., sodium periodate and sodium peroxide), organic peroxides (e.g., urea peroxide and melamine peroxide), inorganic peroxyhydride salt bleaching compounds (e.g., alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulfates, etc.), and mixtures thereof. Inorganic peroxyhydride salts can be incorporated, for example, as monohydrates, tetrahydrates. Alkyl / aryl peroxides and / or peroxidases can also be used. Mixtures of two or more such oxidizing agents can be used if desired. The oxidizing agents may be provided in aqueous solutions or as powders that are dissolved before use.
[0106] In certain embodiments, the compositions comprise a water-soluble oxidizing agent selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, percarbonates (which can be used to provide both an oxidizing agent and a source of carbonate and or ammonium ions), persulfates, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] When the composition of the present invention is obtained by mixing a developer composition and a tint composition before use, the oxidizing agent may be present in the developer composition. The developer composition may be based on any desired formulation framework, including any commercially available product, for example an oil-in-water emulsion. A typical developer composition contains about 6% or about 9% H2O2 by weight of the total developer composition. A commercial example is Welloxon® emulsion marketed by Wella, which has about 6% and about 9% H2O2, respectively, and contains water, H2O2, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-25, salicylic acid, phosphoric acid, disodium phosphate, and etidronic acid as INCI ingredients.
[0108] Alkalizing Agent The composition according to the present invention may further comprise an alkalizing agent. Any alkalizing agent known in the art may be used.
[0109] Typically, the composition may contain a total amount of alkalizing agent in the range of from about 0.1% to about 10%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 6%, alternatively from about 1% to about 4%, by weight of the composition.
[0110] Suitable alkalizing agents include, but are not limited to, ammonia, alkanolamines (e.g., monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monopropanolamine, dipropanolamine, tripropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, and 2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol), guanidine salts, alkali metal and ammonium hydroxides (e.g., sodium hydroxide), alkali metal and ammonium carbonate, and mixtures thereof. Exemplary alkalizing agents are ammonia and / or monoethanolamine. Preferably, when present, the ammonium ions and carbonate ions are present in the composition in a weight ratio of 3:1 to 1:10, alternatively 2:1 to 1:5.
[0111] When the composition of the invention is obtained by mixing a developer with a hair dye composition before use, the alkalizing agent is usually present in the hair dye composition.
[0112] Oxidation dye precursors The compositions according to the invention may further comprise oxidation dye precursors, which are usually classified as either primary intermediates (also known as developers) or couplers (also known as secondary intermediates). Different couplers may be used with the primary intermediates to obtain different shades. The oxidation dye precursors may be free bases or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof.
[0113] Typically, the composition may contain a total amount of oxidative dye precursors in the range of up to about 12%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 10%, alternatively from about 0.3% to about 8%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 6%, by weight of the total composition.
[0114] Suitable primary intermediates include toluene-2,5-diamine, p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, hydroxypropyl-bis-(N-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine), 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2,2'-(2-(4-aminophenylamino)phenyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl ... ethylazanediyl)diethanol, 2-(2,5-diamino-4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-diol, 2-(7-amino-2H-benzo[b][1,4]oxazin-4(3H)-yl)ethanol, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, p-(methylamino)phenol, 4-amino-m-cresol, 6-amino-m-cresol, 5-ethyl-o-aminophenol, 2-methoxy-p-phenylenediamine, 2,2'-methylenebis-4-amido 2,4,5,6-Tetraaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-Triamino-4-pyrimidinol, 1-Hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate, 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-butylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-pentylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-benzylpyrazole, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydropyrazole, These include, but are not limited to, pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazole-1(5H)-one dimethosulfonate, 4,5-diamino-1-hexylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-heptylpyrazole, methoxymethyl-1,4-diaminobenzene, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(4-aminophenyl)-1,2-diaminotanes, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxy]ethanol hydrochloride, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0115] Suitable couplers include resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4,6-dichlorobenzene-1,3-diol, 2,4-dimethylbenzene-1,3-diol, m-aminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 3-amino-2,6-dimethylphenol, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol, 5-amino-4-chloro-o-cresol, 6-hydroxy- 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 2-amino-5-phenylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-ethoxyphenol, 5-methyl-2-(methylamino)phenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 1,3-bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-propane, 2,2'-(2-methyl-1,3-phenylene)bis(azanediyl)diethanol, benzene-1,3- Diamine, 2,2'-(4,6-diamino-1,3-phenylene)bis(oxy)diethanol, 3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)aniline, 1-(3-(dimethylamino)phenyl)urea, 1-(3-aminophenyl)urea, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-naphthalenediol, 2,7-naphthalenediol, or 1-acetoxy-2-methylnaphthalene, 4-chloro-2-methylnaphthalen-1-ol, 4-methoxy-2-methylnaphthalen-1-ol, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethyl pyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-pyridinediamine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, pyridine-2,6-diol, 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-1H-pyrazol-5(4H)-one, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, (also known as hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline), 2-(benzo[d][1,3]dioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0116] When the composition of the present invention is obtained by mixing a hair dye composition with a developer composition, the primary intermediates and couplers are usually incorporated into the hair dye composition.
[0117] direct dye The compositions according to the invention may further comprise a compatible direct dye in an amount sufficient to provide additional coloration, particularly in terms of intensity.Typically, the compositions may comprise a total amount of direct dye ranging from about 0.05% to about 4%, by weight of the total composition.
[0118] Suitable direct dyes are acid dyes, such as Acid Yellow 1, Acid Orange 3, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 43, HC Blue 16, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 25, Acid Red 4; basic dyes, such as Basic Brown 17, Basic Red 118, Basic Orange 69, Basic Red 76, Basic Brown 16, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue ... Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Red 2, Basic Blue 99, Basic Yellow 29, Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Blue 124, 4-(3-(4-amino-9,10-dioxo-9,10-dihydroanthracen-1-ylamino)propyl)-4-methylmorpholin-4-ium-methylsulfate (E)-1-(2-(4-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)diazenyl)phenyl)(ethyl)amino)ethyl)-3-methyl-1H-imidazol-3-yl N,N-dimethyl-3-(4-(methylamino)-9,10-dioxo-4a,9,9a,10-tetrahydroanthracen-1-ylamino)-N-propylpropan-1-aminium bromide; disperse dyes, such as Disperse Red 17, Disperse Red 20, Disperse Red 22, Disperse Red 26, Disperse Red 28, Disperse Red 29, Disperse Red 30, Disperse Red 31, Disperse Red 32, Disperse Red 33, Disperse Red 34, Disperse Red 35, Disperse Red 36, Disperse Red 37, Disperse Red 38, Disperse Red 39, Disperse Red 40, Disperse Red 41, Disperse Red 42, Disperse Red 43, Disperse Red 44, Disperse Red 45, Disperse Red 46, Disperse Red 47, Disperse Red 48, Disperse Red 49, Disperse Red 50, Disperse Red 51, Disperse Red 52, Disperse Red 53, Disperse Red 54, Disperse Red 55, Disperse Red 56, Disperse Red 57, Disperse Red 58, Disperse Red 59 ... Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Red 15, Disperse Black 9, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Blue 23, Disperse Blue 377; nitro dyes such as 1-(2-(4-nitrophenylamino)ethyl)urea, 2-(4-methyl-2-nitrophenylamino)ethanol, 4-nitrobenzene-1,2-diamine, 2-nitrobenzene-1,4-diamine, picramic acid, HC Red No. 13, 2,2'-(2-nitro-1,4-phenylene)bis(azanediyl)diethanol, HC Yellow No. 5, HC Red No.7, HC Blue No. 2, HC Yellow No. 4, HC Yellow No. 2, HC Orange No. 1, HC Red No. 1, 2-(4-amino-2-chloro-5-nitrophenylamino)ethanol, HC Red No. 3, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)-3-nitrophenol, 2-amino-3-nitrophenol, 2-(3-(methylamino)-4-nitrophenoxy)ethanol, 3-(3-amino-4-nitrophenyl)propane-1,2-diol, HC Yellow No. 11, HC Violet No. 1, HC Orange No. 2, HC Orange No. 3, HC Yellow No. 9, HC Red No. 10, HC Red No. 11, 2-(2-hydroxyethylamino)-4,6-dinitrophenol, HC Blue No. 12, HC Yellow No. 6, HC Yellow No. 12, HC Blue No. 10, HC Yellow N o.7, HC Yellow No.10, HC Blue No.9, 2-chloro-6-(ethylamino)-4-nitrophenol, 6-nitropyridine-2,5-diamine, HC Violet No.2, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-(3-hydroxypropylamino)-3-nitrophenol, HC Yellow No.13, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, HC Red No.14, HC Yellow No.15, HC Yellow No.14, N2-methyl-6-nitropyridine-2,5-diamine, N1-allyl-2-nitrobenzene-1,4-diamine, HC Red No.8, HC Green No.1, HC Blue No.14; natural dyes, such as annatto, anthocyanins, beetroot, carotene, capsanthin, lycopene, chlorophyll, henna, indigo, cochineal; and mixtures thereof, including, but not limited to.
[0119] When the composition is obtained by mixing a hair dye composition with a developer composition, the direct dye is usually incorporated into the hair dye composition.
[0120] Chelating Agents The compositions according to the invention may further comprise a chelating agent (also known as a "chelating agent", "sequestering agent" or "sequestrant") in an amount sufficient to reduce the amount of metal available for interaction with the formulation ingredients, particularly the oxidizing agent, more particularly the peroxide. Chelating agents are well known in the art and non-exhaustive lists can be found in AE Martell & RM Smith, Critical Stability Constants, Vol. 1, Plenum Press, New York & London (1974) and AE Martell & RD Hancock, Metal Complexes in Aqueous Solution, Plenum Press, New York & London (1996), both of which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0121] Typically, the compositions will contain a total amount of chelating agent(s) in the range of at least about 0.01%, alternatively from about 0.01% to about 5%, alternatively from about 0.25% to about 3%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 1%, by weight of the total composition.
[0122] Suitable chelating agents include, but are not limited to, carboxylic acids (e.g., amino carboxylic acids), phosphonic acids (e.g., amino phosphonic acids), polyphosphoric acids (e.g., linear polyphosphoric acids), their salts, and mixtures thereof. By "salts thereof" is meant, with respect to the chelating agents, all salts that contain the same functional structure as the chelating agents, including, but not limited to, alkali metal salts, alkaline earth salts, ammonium salts, substituted ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; or sodium salts, potassium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; or monoethanolammonium salts, diethanolammonium salts, triethanolammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0123] Suitable aminocarboxylic acid chelating agents contain at least one carboxylic acid moiety (--COOH) and at least one nitrogen atom. Suitable aminocarboxylic acid chelating agents include, but are not limited to, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediaminediglutaric acid (EDGA), 2-hydroxypropylenediaminedisuccinic acid (HPDS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N-N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenedicysteic acid (EDC), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), diaminoalkyldi(sulfosuccinic acids) (DDS), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable aminocarboxylic acid type chelating agents include, but are not limited to, iminodiacetic acid derivatives, such as N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetate or glyceryl iminodiacetate, iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid, β-alanine-N,N'-diacetate, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetate, aspartic acid-N-monoacetate and iminodisuccinic acid chelating agents, ethanol diglycinic acid, their salts, their derivatives, and their mixtures.Other suitable aminocarboxylic acid type chelating agents include, but are not limited to, dipicolinic acid, 2-phosphonobutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, their derivatives, and their mixtures.
[0124] Suitable aminophosphonic acid chelating agents include an aminophosphonic acid moiety (-PO3H2) or a derivative thereof, -PO3R2, where R2 is a C1-C6 alkyl or aryl group and salts thereof. Suitable aminophosphonic acid chelating agents include, but are not limited to, aminotri-(1-ethylphosphonic acid), ethylene-diaminetetra-(1-ethylphosphonic acid), aminotri-(1-propylphosphonic acid), aminotri-(isopropylphosphonic acid), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; or aminotri-(methylenephosphonic acid), ethylene-diamine-tetra-(methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP) and diethylene-triamine-penta-(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0125] Suitable alternative chelating agents include, but are not limited to, polyethyleneimine, polyphosphate chelating agents, etidronic acid, methylglycine diacetic acid, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)iminodiacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N',N''-ethylenediaminediacetic acid, salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0126] In certain embodiments, the composition comprises a chelating agent selected from the group consisting of diethylenetriamine-N,N',N''-polyacid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), diamine-N,N'-dipolyacid, monoaminemonoamide-N,N'-dipolyacid, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof; or ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS).
[0127] When the composition of the invention is obtained by mixing a hair dye composition with a developer composition, the chelating agent can be incorporated in the hair dye composition and / or in the developer composition. The chelating agent is usually present in the developer composition for stability reasons.
[0128] Radical Scavenger The composition according to the present invention may further comprise a radical scavenger. As used herein, the term "radical scavenger" refers to a species that can react with a radical, preferably a carbonate radical, to convert the radical species into a less reactive species through a series of fast reactions. In one embodiment, the radical scavenger is different from the alkalizing agent and / or is present in an amount sufficient to reduce damage to hair during the coloring / bleaching process.
[0129] Typically, the compositions may contain a total amount of radical scavengers in the range of about 0.1% to about 10%, alternatively about 1% to about 7%, by weight of the total composition.
[0130] Suitable radical scavengers include alkanolamines, amino sugars, amino acids, esters of amino acids, and mixtures thereof; or 3-amino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, 5-amino-1-pentanol, 1-amino-2-propanol, 1-amino-2-butanol, 1-amino-2-pentanol, 1-amino-3-pentanol, 1-amino-4-pentanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol. , 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, glucosamine, N-acetylglucosamine, glycine, arginine, lysine, proline, glutamine, histidine, sarcosine, serine, glutamic acid, tryptophan, their salts, and mixtures thereof; or glycine, sarcosine, lysine, serine, 2-methoxyethylamine, glucosamine, glutamic acid, morpholine, piperidine, ethylamine, 3-amino-1-propanol, and mixtures thereof. As used herein, the term "salts thereof" in relation to radical scavengers refers specifically to potassium salts, sodium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] pH adjusters and buffers In addition to the alkalizing agents described above, compositions according to the present invention may further comprise a pH adjusting and / or buffering agent in an amount effective enough to adjust the pH of the composition to be within the range of from about 3 to about 13, alternatively from about 8 to about 12, alternatively from about 9 to about 11.
[0132] Suitable pH adjusters and / or buffers include, but are not limited to, ammonia, alkanolamides (e.g., monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monopropanolamine, dipropanolamine, tripropanolamine, tripropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3,-propanediol), guanidinium salts, hydroxides and carbonates of alkali metals and ammonium hydroxides, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0133] Alternative pH adjusters and / or buffers include, but are not limited to, sodium hydroxide, ammonium carbonate, acidulants (e.g., inorganic and inorganic acids including phosphoric, acetic, ascorbic, citric or tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid), and mixtures thereof.
[0134] Thickeners and / or rheology modifiers Compositions according to the present invention may further comprise a sufficient amount of a thickener to impart viscosity to the composition so that it can be easily applied to the hair without excessively dripping and messing.
[0135] Typically, the compositions will comprise a total amount of thickening agent in the range of at least about 0.1%, alternatively at least about 0.5%, alternatively at least about 1%, by weight of the total composition.
[0136] Suitable thickening agents include, but are not limited to, associative polymers, polysaccharides, non-associative polycarboxylic acid polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0137] As used herein, the term "associative polymer" refers to an amphiphilic polymer that contains both hydrophilic and hydrophobic units, for example, at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit. Associative polymers can reversibly combine with each other or with other molecules. Suitable associative thickeners include, but are not limited to, nonionic amphiphilic polymers that contain at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit, anionic amphiphilic polymers that contain at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit, cationic amphiphilic polymers that contain at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit, amphoteric amphiphilic polymers that contain at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit, and mixtures thereof.
[0138] Suitable nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit include, but are not limited to, cellulose modified with a group comprising at least one fatty chain (such as hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group comprising at least one fatty chain selected from alkyl, alkenyl, and alkylaryl groups), hydroxypropyl guar modified with a group comprising at least one fatty chain, polyether urethanes comprising at least one fatty chain (such as C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl groups), copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and fatty chain hydrophobic monomers, copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, copolymers of hydrophilic acrylates or methacrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, and mixtures thereof.
[0139] Suitable nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit include, but are not limited to, those polymers comprising at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit and at least one hydrophilic unit comprising an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer unit (such as a vinyl carboxylic acid unit, in particular a unit selected from units derived from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof), wherein the fatty chain allyl ether unit is represented by the following formula (I): CH2=C(R1)CH2OBnR (I) corresponds to the monomer, wherein R1 is selected from H and CH3, B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is selected from zero and an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R is selected from a hydrocarbon-based radical selected from alkyl, alkenyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, and cycloalkyl radicals and containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, further such as 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and even further such as 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0140] Suitable anionic amphiphilic polymers include, but are not limited to, those polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of an unsaturated olefin carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of a type such as a (C8-C30) alkyl ester or a (C8-C30) oxyethylenated alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, the hydrophilic unit being, for example, represented by the following formula (II): CH2=C(R1)COOH (II) corresponds to the monomer, wherein R1 is selected from H, CH3, C2H5, and CH2COOH (i.e., acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethyl acid, and itaconic acid units), and wherein the hydrophobic units of the type such as (C8-C30) alkyl esters or (C8-C30) oxyethylenated alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are, for example, represented by the following formula (III): CH2=C(R1)COOBnR2 (III) corresponds to the monomer, wherein R1 is selected from H, CH3, C2H5, and CH2COOH (i.e., acrylate, methacrylate, ethacrylate, and itaconate units), B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is selected from zero and an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R2 is selected from C8-C30 alkyl radicals, such as C12-C22 alkyl radicals. The anionic amphiphilic polymer may be further crosslinked. The crosslinking agent may be selected from the group (IV) CH2=C< (IV) The monomer may be The unsaturated bonds have at least one other polymerizable group that is not conjugated to each other. For example, polyallyl ethers such as polyallylsucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol may be mentioned.
[0141] Suitable cationic amphiphilic polymers include, but are not limited to, quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing amino side groups. The quaternized cellulose derivatives are selected from, for example, quaternized cellulose modified with a group containing at least one aliphatic chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one aliphatic chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals carried by the above quaternized cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose contain, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals are selected from, for example, phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, and anthryl groups.
[0142] A suitable amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit may be made, for example, from methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid / C8-C30 alkyl methacrylate copolymer, where the alkyl radical is, for example, a stearyl radical.
[0143] Preferred associative polymers include at least one hydrophilic unit that is an unsaturated carboxylic acid or its derivatives, and at least one hydrophobic unit that is a C8-C30 alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid or an oxyethylated C8-C30 alkyl ester. The unsaturated carboxylic acid is preferably acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or itaconic acid. Commercially available materials include those sold as Aculy-22 by Rohm & Haas, Permulen TR1 by Noveon, Carbopol 2020, Carbopol Ultrez-21, and Structure 2001 / 3001 by National Starch. Other preferred associative polymers include polyether polyurethanes sold as Aculyn-44 / -46 by Rohm & Haas. Further preferred associative polymers include cellulose modified with a group containing at least one C8-C30 fatty chain, sold under the trade name Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS by Aqualon.
[0144] Suitable non-associative crosslinked polycarboxylic acid polymers include, but are not limited to, crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, copolymers of acrylic acid or (meth)acrylic acid with C1-C6 alkyl acrylates or (meth)acrylates, and mixtures thereof. Commercially available materials include those sold as Carbopol 980 / 981 / 954 / 2984 / 5984 by Noveon, Synthalen M / Synthalen L / Synthalen K by 3V Sigma, and Aculyn-33 by Rohm & Haas.
[0145] Suitable polysaccharides include glucans, modified and unmodified starches (e.g., from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as yellow pea, and tubers such as potato or cassaya), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, cellulose and its derivatives (methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, and carboxymethylcellulose), mannan, xylan, lignin, araban, galactan, galacturonan, chitin, chitosan, glucuronate, and the like. Examples of suitable polysaccharides include, but are not limited to, noxylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucan, glucomannan, pectic acid and pectin, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactan, carrageenan, agar, glycosaminoglucan, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, carob gum, galactomannans such as guar gum, and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), and biopolysaccharides such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, welan gum, scleroglucan, succinoglycan, and mixtures thereof. Suitable polysaccharides are described in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology" by Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Vol. 3, pp. 896-900, and Vol. 15, pp. 439-458, "Polymers in Nature" by EA MacGregor and CT Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc., all three of which are incorporated herein by reference. Preferred polysaccharides are biopolysaccharides, in particular those selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, welan gum, scleroglucan, or succinoglycan, commercially available as Keltrol® T by Kelco, and Rheozan® by Rhodia Chimie.Another preferred polysaccharide is a hydroxypropyl starch derivative, in particular hydroxypropyl starch phosphate sold under the trademark Structure XL® by National Starch.
[0146] Commercially available salt-tolerant thickeners include xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose (commercially available as Aquacote), hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol), carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose (Klucel), hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol Plus 330), N-vinylpyrrolidone (Povidone), acrylates / Ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer (Structure 3001), hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure ZEA), polyethoxylated urethanes, or polycarbamyl polyglycol esters, such as PEG-150 / Decyl / SMDI copolymer (Aculyn 44), PEG-150 / Stearyl / SMDI copolymer (Aculyn 46), trihydroxystearin (Thixcin), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 47), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 49), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 50), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 51), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 52), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 53), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 54), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 55), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 56), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 57), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 58), acrylates copolymers (Aculyn 59 ... 33), or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (such as acrylates / Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer as Aculyn 22), acrylates / Steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer (Aculyn 88), acrylates / vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer (Aculyn 38), acrylates / Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer (Aculyn 28), acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (Carbopol ETD 2020), non-ionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit selected from at least one fatty chain and polyether urethanes comprising at least one fatty chain, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate, dicetyl phosphate and cetearyl alcohol (available as Crodafos CES), and mixtures thereof.
[0147] Carbonate ion source Compositions according to the present invention may further comprise a source of carbonate ions, carbamate ions, bicarbonate ions, and mixtures thereof, in an amount sufficient to reduce damage to the hair during the coloring process.
[0148] Typically, the compositions may contain a total amount of carbonate ion sources in the range of from about 0.1% to about 15%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 10%, alternatively from about 1% to about 7%, by weight of the total composition.
[0149] Suitable carbonate ion sources include, but are not limited to, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, guanidine carbonate, guanidine bicarbonate, lithium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, barium carbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof; alternatively, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof; alternatively, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0150] Conditioning Agent The composition according to the present invention may further comprise a conditioning agent and / or may be used in combination with a composition comprising a conditioning agent.
[0151] Typically, the composition may contain a total amount of conditioning agents in the range of from about 0.05% to about 20%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 15%, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 10%, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 2%, alternatively from about 0.5% to 2%, by weight of the total composition. The conditioning agents may also be included in separate pre-treatment and / or post-treatment compositions.
[0152] Suitable conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, silicones, aminosilicones, fatty alcohols, polymeric resins, polyol carboxylic acid esters, cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, insoluble oils and oil-derived materials, and mixtures thereof. Additional conditioning agents include mineral oils, and other oils, such as glycerin and sorbitol.
[0153] Particularly useful conditioning materials are cationic polymers. Cationic polymer type conditioners may be selected from those that contain at least one amine group unit selected from primary, secondary, tertiary, and quaternary amine groups, which may form part of the polymer backbone or be borne by a pendant substituent directly attached to the polymer backbone as described herein.
[0154] Suitable silicones include, but are not limited to, polyalkylsiloxane oils, linear polydimethylsiloxane oils containing trimethylsilyl or hydroxydimethylsiloxane end groups, polymethylphenylsiloxane, polydimethylphenylsiloxane or polydimethyldiphenylsiloxane oils, silicone resins, organofunctional siloxanes having one or more identical or different organofunctional groups attached directly to the siloxane chain in their general structure, and mixtures thereof.The organofunctional groups may be selected from polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups, (per)fluorinated groups, thiol groups, substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, carboxylate groups, hydroxylated groups, alkoxylated groups, quaternium ammonium groups, amphoteric and betaine groups.Silicones can be used as neat fluids or in the form of preformed emulsions. Suitable silicones also include silicones containing groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, such as aminosilicones containing at least 10 repeating siloxane (Si(CH3)2-O) units in the polymer chain, with either terminal amino functionality, grafted amino functionality, or a mixture of terminal and grafted amino functionality. Examples of functional groups include, but are not limited to, aminoethylaminopropyl, aminoethylaminoisobutly, aminopropyl. In the case of grafted polymers, the terminal siloxane units are (CH3)3Si-O, R 12 (CH3)2Si-O, where R 12 is OH or OR 13 wherein R 13is a C1-C8 alkyl group, or a mixture of both end groups. These silicones are also available as preformed emulsions. Commercially available aminosilicones include those sold as DC-2-8566, DC 7224, DC-2-8220 by Dow Corning, SF1708, SM2125 by GE Silicones, Wacker Belsil ADM 653 / ADM 1100 / ADM 1600 / ADM 652 / ADM 6057E / ADM 8020 by Wacker Silicones, DC929, DC939, DC949 by Dow Corning, and SM2059 by GE Silicones. Suitable aminosilicones may also contain additional functional groups, particularly polyoxyalkylenes, reaction products of amines with carbinols, and additional functional groups including alkyl chains. Commercially available materials are known as Methoxy PEG / PPG-7 / 3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone (eg, Abil Soft AF100 from Degussa) or as Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy)PG Amodimethicone (eg, DC 8500 from Dow Corning).
[0155] Suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, polymers containing at least one unit of an amine group selected from primary, secondary, tertiary, and quaternary amine groups, which may form part of the polymer backbone or be borne by a pendant substituent directly attached to the polymer backbone. Such cationic polymers generally have a molecular weight of about 500 to about 5×10 6 , or about 1000 to about 3 × 10 6 Preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from polyamine, polyaminoamide, and polyquaternaryammonium type polymers.
[0156] Suitable polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide, and polyquaternaryammonium types include, but are not limited to, the following:
[0157] 1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid esters or amides. The copolymers of these polymers may also contain at least one unit derived from a comonomer which may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with at least one group selected from lower (C1-C4) alkyl, acrylic and methacrylic acids and their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters. Suitable examples include copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-5 (e.g., available under the trade names Reten 210 / 220 / 230 / 240 / 1104 / 1105 / 1006 from Hercules; Merquat 5 / 5 SF from Nalco); copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-28 (e.g., Gafquat HS-100 from ISP); copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates or methactylates, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-11 (Gafquat 440 / 734 / 755 / 755N from ISP; Luviquat PQ11 PM from BASF; Polyquat-11 SL from Sino Lion); copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, and methacryloylaminopropyl lauryldimonium chloride, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-53 (e.g., Merquat 2003 from Nalco); copolymers of acrylic acid, acrylamide, and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-53 (e.g., Merquat 2003 from Nalco);copolymers of dimethylaminopropyl acrylate (DMAPA), acrylic acid, acrylonitrile, and diethyl sulfate, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-31 (e.g., Hypan QT100 from Lipo); copolymers of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamidosulfonate, and dimethylaminopropyl acrylate (DMAPA), including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-43 (e.g., Bozequat 4000 from Clairant); copolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate, and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-47 (e.g., Merquat 2001 / 2001N from Nalco); copolymers of methacryloylethyl betaine, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium chloride, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-48 (e.g., Plascize L-450 from Goo Chemical);Included are copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride acrylate and acrylamide, including the polymer known as polyquaternium-39 (eg, Nalco's Merquat 3330 / 3331). Further suitable examples include polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15 (e.g., Rohagit KF 720 F from Rohm), polyquaternium-30 (e.g., Mexomere PX from Chimex), polyquaternium-33, polyquaternium-35, polyquaternium-36 (e.g., Plex 3074 L from Rhon), polyquaternium 45 (e.g., Plex 3073L from Rohn), polyquaternium 49 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 50 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 51 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 52 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 53 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 54 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 55 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 56 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 57 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 58 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 59 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 60 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), polyquaternium 61 (e.g., Plascize L-440 from Goo Chemicals), L-441), copolymers of methacrylamide methacrylamide-propyltrimonium, and methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium chloride, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-52, and their derivatives homopolymerized or copolymerized with other monomers;
[0158] 2) Cationic polysaccharides such as cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. For example, among the cationic polysaccharides that may be mentioned are cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups and cationic cellulose copolymers, or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers and cationic galactomannan gums. Suitable examples include copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyldimethylammonium chloride, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-4 (e.g., Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 from National Starch); Polyquaternium-10 (e.g., AEC Polyquaternium-10 from A&E Connonock; Catinal C-100 / HC-35 / HC-100 / HC-200 / LC-100 / LC-200 from Toho; Celquat SC-240C / SC-230M from National Starch; Dekaquat 400 / 3000 from Dekker; Leogard GP from Akzo Nobel; RITA Polyquat 400 / 3000 from RITA; UCARE Polymer JR-125 / JR-400 / JR-30M / LK / LR 400 / LR from Amerchol). copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose and trimethylammonium substituted epoxides, including the polymer known as Polyquaternium-24 (e.g., Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200 from Amerchol); guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (e.g., Catinal CG-100, Catinal CG-200 from Toho; Cosmedia Guar C-261N, Cosmedia Guar C-261N, Cosmedia Guar C-261N from Cognis; DiaGum P 5070 from Freedom Chemical Diamalt; N-Hance Cationic Guar from Hercules / Aqualon;Hydroxypropyl guar derivatives, including the polymers known as Rhodia's Hi-Care 1000, Jaguar C-17, Jaguar C-2000, Jaguar C-13S, Jaguar C-14S, Jaguar Excel; Nippon Starch's Kiprogum CW, Kiprogum NGK; Hydroxypropyl derivatives of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, including the polymers known as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (e.g., Rhodia's Jaguar C-162);
[0159] 3) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Among the derivatives, mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.
[0160] 4) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylenepolyamine containing two primary amine groups and finally one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. Suitable examples include the polymer adipic acid / epxoypropyl / diethylenetriamine.
[0161] 5) Dialkdiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers include dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, including polymers known as polyquaternium-6 (e.g., Merquat 100 from Nalco; Mirapol 100 from Rhodia; Rheocare CC6 from Cosmetic Rheologies; AEC Polyquaternium-6 from A&E Connock; Agequat 400 from CPS; Conditioner P6 from 3V Inc.; Flocare C106 from SNF; Genamin PDAC from Clariant; Mackernium 006 from McIntyre); and polyquaternium-7 (e.g., AEC Polyquaternium-7 from A&E Connock; Agequat-5008 / C-505 from CPS; Conditioner P7 from 3V Inc.; Flocare C from SNF). Copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride monomers, including the polymers known as Polyquaternary-22 (e.g., Nalco's Merquat 280 / Merquat 295); copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid, including the polymers known as Polyquaternary-22 (e.g., Nalco's Merquat 280 / Merquat 295).
[0162] 6) A quaternary diammonium polymer comprising a repeating unit corresponding to [-N+(R1)(R2)-A1-N+(R3)(R4)-B1-][2X-], where R1, R2, R3 and R4 may be the same or different and are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic radicals containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals; or R1, R2, R3 and R4, together or separately, comprise with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached a heterocycle optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen; or R1, R2, R3 and R4 are selected from nitrile, ester, acyl and amide groups, and linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radicals substituted with at least one group selected from -CO-O-R5-D and -CO-NH-R5-D groups, where R5 is selected from alkylene groups and D is selected from quaternary ammonium groups. A1 and B1, which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated or unsaturated polymethylene groups containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms. The polymethylene group may contain at least one entity selected from aromatic rings, oxygen atoms, sulfur atoms, and sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary, ammonium, ureido, amide and ester groups, linked or inserted into the main ring, and X- is an anion derived from inorganic and organic acids. D is selected from glycol residues, bis-secondary diamine residues, bis-primary diamine residues, or ureylene groups. Suitable examples include hexadimethrine chloride, where R1, R2, R3, and R4 are each methyl radicals, A1 is (CH2)3, B1 is (CH2)6, and X=Cl, and the polymer known as polyquaternium-34, where R1 and R2 are ethyl radicals, R3 and R4 are methyl radicals, A1 is (CH2)3, B1 is (CH2)3, and X=Br (e.g., Mexomere PAX from Chimax).
[0163] 7) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising repeating units of the formula [-N+(R6)(R7)-(CH2)r-NH-CO-(CH2)q-(CO)t-NH-(CH2)s-N+(R8)(R9)-A-][2X-], where R6, R7, R8 and R9 may be the same or different and are selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radicals, where p is equal to 0 or an integer ranging from 1 to 6, where R6, R7, R8, R9 do not all simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom. Each of R and s, which may be the same or different, is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, q is equal to 0 or an integer ranging from 1 to 34, and X- is an anion such as a halide. T is an integer selected to be equal to 0 or 1. A is selected from divalent radicals such as -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-. Suitable examples include polyquaternium-2, where r=s=3, q=0, t=0, R6, R7, R8 and R9 are methyl groups, and A is -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2 (e.g., Ethpol PQ-2 from Ethox; Mirapol A-15 from Rhodia); polyquaternium-17, where r=s=3, q=4, t=1, R6, R7, R8 and R9 are methyl groups, and A is -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2; polyquaternium-18, where r=s=3, q=7, t=1, R6, R7, R8 and R9 are methyl groups, and A is -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2; polyquaternium-27, where r=s=3, q=7, t=1, R6, R7, R8 and R9 are methyl groups, and A is -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2 175) and polymers known as block copolymers formed by the reaction of polyquaternium-2 with polyquaternium-17.
[0164] 8) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylimidazole, and optionally vinylcaprolactam, including the polymers known as Polyquaternary-16 (e.g., Luviquat FC370 / / FC550 / FC905 / HM-552 from BASF), which are formed from methylvinylimidazolium chloride and vinylpyrrolidone; copolymers of vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate, which include the polymers known as Polyquaternary-46 (e.g., Luviquat Hold from BASF); copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized imidazoline, which include the polymers known as Polyquaternary 44 (e.g., Luviquat Care from BASF).
[0165] 9) Polyethylene glycols (15) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Cognis under the reference name Tallow polyamine.
[0166] 10) Crosslinked methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salt polymers, such as those obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, homo- or copolymerized subsequently with compounds containing olefinic unsaturation, such as methylenebisacrylamide, including the polymers known as Polyquaternium-37 (e.g., Synthalen CN / CR / CU sold by 3V Sigma; or as a dispersant in other media, such as Salcare SC95 / SC96 from Ciba; Rheocare CTH(E) from Cosmetic Rheologies), and Polyquaternium-32 (e.g., sold as a dispersant in mineral oil, such as Salcare SC92 from Ciba).
[0167] 11) Further examples of cationic polymers include polymers known as Polyquaternium 51 (e.g., Lipidoa-PMB from NOF), Polyquaternium 54 (e.g., Qualty-Hy from Mitsui), Polyquaternium 56 (e.g., Hairrol UC-4 from Sanyo Chemical), and Polyquaternium 87 (e.g., Luviquat Sensation from BASF).
[0168] 12) Silicone polymers containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups. Suitable examples include cationic silicones of the general formula (R10-N+(CH3)2)-R11-(Si(CH3)2-O)x-R11-(N+(CH3)2)-R10), where R10 is an alkyl derived from coconut oil, R11 is (CH2CHOCH2O(CH2)3), and x is a number between 20 and 2000, including the polymer known as Quaternium 80 (e.g., Abil Quat 3272 / 3474 sold by Goldschmidt), silicones that contain groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, such as amino silicones that contain at least 10 repeating siloxane-(Si(CH3)2-O) units in the polymer chain and have either terminal amino functional groups, grafted amino functional groups, or a mixture of terminal and grafted amino functional groups. Examples of functional groups include, but are not limited to, aminoethylaminopropyl, aminoethylaminoisobutly, aminopropyl. For graft polymers, the terminal siloxane units can be either (CH3)3Si-O or R12(CH3)2Si-O, where R12 can be either OH or OR13, where R13 is a C1-C8 alkyl group, or a mixture of both functional end groups. These silicones are also available as preformed emulsions. Examples of polymers with terminal siloxane units of (CH3)3Si-O include the polymers known as trimethylsilylamodimethicone (e.g., DC-2-8566, DC 7224, DC-2-8220 from Dow Corning; SF1708, SM 2125 from GE Silicones; Wacker Belsil ADM 653 from Wacker silicones).Further examples include polymers with terminal siloxane units of (RO)(CH)Si-O, where R12 can be either OH or OR13, where R13 is a C1-C8 alkyl group or a mixture of both functional end groups, known as amodimethicones (e.g., Wacker Belsil ADM 1100 / ADM 1600 / ADM 652 / ADM 6057E / ADM 8020 from Wacker Silicones; DC929, DC939, DC949 from Dow Corning; SM2059 from GE silicones). Silicones containing groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, such as silicones containing at least 10 repeating siloxane-(Si(CH3)2-O) units in the polymer chain, with either terminal amino functionality, grafted amino functionality, or a mixture of terminal and grafted amino functionality with additional functional groups. Additional functional groups may include polyoxyalkylene, reaction products of amines and carbinols, and alkyl chains. Examples include products known as methoxy PEG / PPG-7 / 3 aminopropyl dimethicone (e.g., Abil Soft AF100 from Degussa). Examples include products known as bis(C13-15 alkoxy)PG amodimethicone (e.g., DC 8500 from Dow Corning).
[0169] In a preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of Polyquaternium 37, Polyquaternium 7, Polyquaternium 22, Polyquaternium 87, and mixtures thereof, in particular Polyquaternium 37, Polyquaternium 22, and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Surfactants The composition according to the present invention may further comprise a surfactant. Suitable surfactants generally have a lipophilic chain length of about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms and may be selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] Typically, the composition may contain a total amount of surfactant in the range of from about 1% to about 60%, alternatively from about 2% to about 30%, alternatively from about 8% to about 25%, alternatively from about 10% to about 20%, by weight of the total composition.
[0172] The composition may include a mixture of anionic and amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants. The composition may include a total amount of anionic surfactants ranging from about 0.1% to about 20%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 15%, alternatively from about 5% to about 15%, by weight of the total composition, and the total amount of amphoteric and / or nonionic components may range, independently of one another, from about 0.1% to about 15%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 10%, alternatively from about 1% to about 8%, by weight of the total composition.
[0173] Suitable anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, salts of the following compounds (alkali salts, e.g. sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts and magnesium salts): alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl amido sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amido sulfonates; alkyl sulphosuccinamates, alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphate ester salts; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isethionates; N-acyltaurates; and mixtures thereof. The alkyl or acyl radicals of all of these various compounds contain, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radicals are selected, for example, from phenyl and benzyl groups. Among the anionic surfactants that may also be used, mention may be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid, and acyl lactates in which the acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Weak anionic surfactants include alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C 24 ) Alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C 24 ) Alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C 24 ) Alkyl amide ether carboxylic acids and their salts, for example those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof, may also be used. Anionic derivatives of polysaccharides, such as carboxyalkyl ethers of alkyl polyglucosides, may also be used.
[0174] Nonionic surfactants are well known compounds (see, for example, in this respect, "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR Porter, published by Blackie & Son, Glassgow and London, 1991, pp. 116-178). Suitable nonionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and polyglycerolated fatty acids, alkylphenols, α-diols and alcohols, for example, containing fatty chains containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being, for example, in the range of 2 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups being, for example, in the range of 2 to 30. Copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides, preferably having 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and their monoethanolamine and diethanolamine derivatives, such as polyglycerolated fatty acid amides containing an average of 1 to 5, and 1.5 to 4, etc., glycerol groups; polyethoxylated fatty amines, such as those containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan with 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides, such as (C 10 -C 14 )Alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides may also be mentioned.
[0175] Suitable amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to, aliphatic secondary and tertiary amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is selected from linear or branched chains containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one water-soluble anionic group (e.g., carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate), (C8-C 20 )Alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C 20) alkylamide (C1-C6) alkylbetaine, or (C8-C 20 Mention may also be made of alkylamide (C1-C6) alkylsulfobetaines. Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made, for example, of the products sold under the name Miranol, described in U.S. Patents Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354, and having the following structure: R2-CON HCH2CH2-N + (R3)(R4)(CH2COO - ), (VI) in which R2 is selected from the alkyl radicals derived from the acid R2-COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, and the heptyl, nonyl, undecyl radicals, R3 is a β-hydroxyethyl group, R4 is a carboxymethyl group; and R5-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(C)(VII) in which B represents -CH2CH2OX' and C is -(CH2) z represents -Y', z=1 or 2, X' is selected from the -CH2CH2-COOH group and a hydrogen atom, Y' is selected from the -COOH and -CH2-CHOH-SO3H radicals, R5 is the alkyl radical of the acid R5-COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, C7, C9, C 11 and C 13 Alkyl radicals such as alkyl radicals, C 17 Alkyl radicals and their isoforms, and unsaturated C 17 These compounds are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993 under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid. Salts of aminopropyl cocoaspartamide diethyl may also be used.
[0176] Suitable cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to, quaternary ammonium salts A) to D) defined below.
[0177] A) a quaternary ammonium salt of the following general formula (VIII): [ka] In the formula, X - is selected from anions derived from halides (chloride, bromide and iodide), (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates, e.g., methyl sulfate, phosphates, alkyl and alkylaryl sulfonates, and organic acids such as acetic acid and lactic acid, and R1 to R4 are as shown below in i) or ii).
[0178] i) The radicals R1 to R3, which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched aliphatic radicals containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals may contain at least one heteroatom, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogen. The aliphatic radicals may be selected from alkyl, alkoxy, and alkylamido radicals. R4 is selected from linear and branched alkyl radicals containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms. Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, behenyltrimethylammonium salts (e.g., chlorides).
[0179] ii) The radicals R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched aliphatic radicals containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals may contain at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogen. The aliphatic radicals may be selected from alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamido, and hydroxyalkyl radicals containing about 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The radicals R3 and R4, which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched alkyl radicals containing 12 to 30 carbon atoms, the alkyl radicals containing at least one functional group selected from ester and amide functional groups. R3 and R4 are selected from (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylamide (C2-C6) alkyl and (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate radicals. Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, dicetyldimethylammonium salts (e.g., chloride).
[0180] B) Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium of formula (IX): [ka] where R5 is selected from alkenyl and alkyl radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R6 is selected from hydrogen atoms, C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 is selected from C1-C4 alkyl radicals, R8 is selected from hydrogen atoms and C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and X -is an anion selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylarylsulfonates. In one embodiment, R5 and R6 are a mixture of radicals selected from alkenyl and alkyl radicals containing, for example, 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl, and R8 is hydrogen. Such products are, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), commercially available as "Rewoquat®" W75 / W90 / W75PG / W75HPG from Witco.
[0181] C) Diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (X): [ka] wherein R9 is selected from an aliphatic radical containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms; R 10 , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 are the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and alkyl radicals containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; X - is an anion selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, and methyl sulfate. Such diquaternary ammonium salts include, for example, propane tallow diammonium dichloride.
[0182] D) a quaternary ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group of formula (XI) [ka] In the formula, R15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl radicals, and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R16 is selected from the radical R19C(O)-, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R20, and a hydrogen atom; R18 is selected from the radical R21C(O)-, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R22, and a hydrogen atom; R17, R19 and R21 may be the same or different, and are linear and branched. , saturated and unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, n, p and r may be the same or different and are selected from integers in the range of 2 to 6, y is selected from integers in the range of 1 to 10, x and z may be the same or different and are selected from integers in the range of 0 to 10, X- is an anion selected from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions, with the proviso that the sum of x+y+z is 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R16 is R20, and when z is 0, R18 is R22. In one embodiment, ammonium salts of formula (XI) may be used, where R15 is selected from methyl and ethyl radicals, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, n, p and r are equal to 2, R16 is selected from the radical R19C(O)-, methyl, ethyl and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals and hydrogen atoms, R17, R19 and R21 may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C7-C21, hydrocarbon-based radicals, and R18 is selected from the radical R21C(O)- and hydrogen atoms. Such compounds are commercially available as Dehyquart from Cognis, Stepanquat from Stepan, Noxamium from Ceca and Rewoquat WE 18 from Rewo-Witco.
[0183] Ionic Strength The compositions of the present invention may further have an ionic strength, as defined herein, of less than about 1.35 moles / kg, alternatively from about 0.10 to about 0.75 moles / kg, alternatively from about 0.20 to about 0.60 moles / kg. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the ionic strength value may also affect the resulting viscosity and root adhesion properties of the composition. Ionic strength may be affected by salt sources such as dyes, sodium sulfate, ammonium carbonate antioxidants, and chelating agents such as EDDS. Dyes tend to have the greatest effect on ionic strength, so the dosage to impart any particular shade must be considered in terms of ionic strength and dye results to avoid viscosity and root adhesion issues.
[0184] The ionic strength of a composition is a function of the concentrations of all ions present in the solution and is represented by the formula: [ka] (In the formula, m i = molality of ion i (M = mol / Kg H2O), and z i = the number of charges on that ion, summed over all ions in the solution). For example, for a 1:1 electrolyte, such as sodium chloride, the ionic strength is the same as the concentration, but for MgSO4, the ionic strength is four times higher. Multivalent ions generally contribute more strongly to ionic strength.
[0185] For example, the ionic strength of a mixture of 0.050M Na2SO4 and 0.020M NaCl is: I = 1 / 2((2 × (+1)2 × 0.050) + (+1)2 × 0.020 + (-2) 2 ×0.050+(-1) 2 ×0.020)=0.17M.
[0186] How to use / Kit It will be understood that the examples of uses and embodiments described herein are for illustrative purposes only, and that various modifications or changes in light thereof may be suggested to those skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the invention.
[0187] Oxidative hair dye compositions for retail use are usually sold in kits containing separately packaged components in separate containers, such as a dye component (emulsions are also called "dye creams" or solutions are also called "dye liquors") containing an oxidizing agent, typically ammonia, in a suitable carrier, and an oxidizing component (emulsions are also called "hydrogen peroxide creams" or solutions are also called "hydrogen peroxide liquors") containing an oxidizing agent, typically hydrogen peroxide. The consumer mixes the dye and oxidizing components together just before use and applies to the hair. Similarly, retail bleaching compositions are usually sold as kits, also containing two or three separately packaged components in two or three separate containers. The first component contains a source of ammonium ions (e.g., ammonia), the second component contains an oxidizing agent, and the third (optional) component contains a second oxidizing agent. The bleaching composition is obtained by mixing the above-mentioned compositions just before use.
[0188] For the professional hair salon market, the hair dye components and the oxidizing and / or bleaching compositions are usually supplied separately to allow the professional to select the combination that suits him or her.
[0189] After mixing the mixture for a few minutes (to ensure even application to all hairs), the oxidative dye composition is allowed to remain on the hair for a sufficient time for coloring to occur (usually about 2 minutes to about 60 minutes, typically about 30 minutes to about 45 minutes). The consumer or salon professional then rinses the hair thoroughly with water and / or shampoo and allows it to dry. The hair is observed to have changed from its original color to the desired color.
[0190] In both retail and professional applications, a conditioning agent may also be provided as an option. In this embodiment, all three compositions can be mixed and applied together immediately prior to use, or the conditioning agent can be applied (after an optional rinsing step) as an immediate post-treatment after the oxidative dye composition or bleach composition obtained from a mixture in another container.
[0191] The kit may also include, as optional components, a pretreatment composition and / or a color refresher composition. Such color refresher compositions include at least one preformed dye and may be applied to the hair immediately after oxidative coloring, i.e., from about 1 minute after application of the oxidative hair dye or bleach, up to about 60 days after application. These color refresher compositions can be used to increase the initial color obtained or to enhance color during the wash and style cycle until the next oxidative coloring or bleaching event.
[0192] viscosity According to the invention, the dye composition and the oxidizing composition can be prepared independently of each other as so-called thin liquids or thick creams. Typically, thin liquids have a viscosity of less than about 1000 cPs. Thick creams typically have a viscosity of about XXX cPs.
[0193] Upon mixing the dye and oxidizing composition, the resulting hair coloring and / or bleaching composition preferably has a viscosity of about 1000 to about 60000 cPs, alternatively about 2000 to about 30000 cPs, alternatively about 3000 to about 25000 cPs. Viscosity is measured using a Brookfield viscometer fitted with a cone and plate. For viscosities ranging from about 0 to about 12000 cPs, a Brookfield DV-11 viscometer with an S42 plate is used. A 2 ml sample of the composition is equilibrated at 26.7° C. for 3 minutes and then read at 1 rpm. For viscosities ranging from about 12,000 to about 60,000 cPs, a Brookfield DV-1 viscometer with an S52 plate is used. A 0.5 ml sample of the composition is equilibrated at 26.7° C. for 1 minute and then read at 1 rpm.
[0194] If viscosity values differ between retail and commercial use, this should be stated.
[0195] Manufacturing method The above-mentioned kits are well known in the art, and the compositions in each container can be manufactured using any one of the standard approaches, including a) the "oil-in-water" process, b) the "phase inversion" process, and c) the "one-pot" process. For example, when using the "oil-in-water" process, the surfactant of the present invention is added to about 50% of the total water volume of the composition at about 90°C, homogenized for 15-30 minutes, and then cooled to room temperature to form a gel network thickener premix. This premix is then mixed cold with the remaining amount of water, other optional ingredients, and / or oxidizing agent, thus forming the first and second component portions of the above-mentioned bleaching or coloring kit.
[0196] Packaging and dispensing equipment The present invention may be provided in a variety of packaging and / or dispensing devices. These dispensing devices may be provided in the form of separate devices that may be used independently or in combination with one another. Typically, the hair coloring or bleaching compositions are contained in separate single or multi-compartment containers so that the compositions can be stored separately from one another before use. The compositions are then mixed together by a mixing means and then dispensed from the device and applied to the consumer's hair by an application means.
[0197] The most common packaging devices that can be used in the present invention include storing the developer in a container such as a bottle, tube, aerosol, or sachet, and storing the dye lotion separately in an additional compartment in the developer container, or more preferably in a separate container that can be the same, such as a dual sachet or aerosol system, or different, such as a bottle and tube system. Any combination may be used, typically depending on the type of composition stored, i.e., whether it is a thick or thin type. The consumer or hair salon professional may mix the oxidation and dye components by any means. This may include the use of a mixing bowl into which the composition is dispensed and then mixed, preferably the use of a mixing means such as a tool. Alternatively, it may involve adding one composition to a container of the other composition (typically the dye composition is added to the oxidation composition), followed by manual shaking or mixing with a tool. Another system involves piercing or replacing a seal located between the separate compartments of the dye and oxidation compositions in a single container or sachet, followed by manual mixing within the container or in a separate and / or additional container.
[0198] The above mentioned devices may also be used in combination with product delivery and / or application tools to aid in the application of the product to the hair. Again, these devices may be of a very simple nature such as a nozzle attached to one of the containers, or a separate applicator device such as a comb or brush. Such combs and brushes can be adapted to achieve specific effects such as quick and even coverage, root / hairline touch-up, highlights or streaks. Alternatively, the container or one of the containers may be provided with a comb attached to or instead of the dispensing nozzle, whereby the product is dispensed through dispensing openings located in the hollow tines and comb tines. The comb tines may be provided with single or multiple openings along the tines to improve application and evenness of the product, especially from root to tip. Dispensing of the product can be achieved by mechanical pressure applied to the container, for example a delaminating bottle or any of the above mechanisms described herein. The comb may be provided on the container for easy application and may be positioned vertically (so-called vertical combs) or at an angle to allow the consumer access to all areas. All devices may be designed to be interchangeable, providing the consumer with a variety of different tools for hair application.
[0199] The application device may also include devices that assist in achieving specific effects such as highlighting, such as highlighting combs, brushes and tools, foils and highlighting caps, etc. Highlighting devices may also be used that include a hinged device into which a quantity of composition is placed and then used to apply the composition to predetermined / selected hair strands.
[0200] Additional device technology can be used to aid in the penetration of the product into the hair, examples of such technology include heat devices, ultraviolet devices, and ultrasonic devices.
[0201] Forms Alternatively, the composition of the present invention may be provided in the form of a foam that is applied to hair.The formation of foam is typically achieved by using a foaming agent that is incorporated in the mixed composition (typically present in either the oxidizing composition, or the dye composition, or both) in conjunction with a manually operated foaming device.Such manually operated foaming devices are known in the art and include aerosol devices, squeeze foamers, and pump foamers.
[0202] Suitable foaming agents include surfactants, such as anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric surfactants, (nonionic surfactants are preferred); polysaccharides (as described herein); polyvinylpyrrolidone and its copolymers; acrylic polymers, such as acrylates copolymer (Aculyn 33) and acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate (Aculyn 22); C12-C24 fatty acids, such as stearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0203] Hair dyeing method The hair coloring composition can be obtained by mixing the color composition and the developer composition just before use. A sufficient amount of the mixture is applied to the hair, generally about 60 to about 250 grams, according to the amount of hair. Upon such preparation, the composition is applied to the hair to be dyed and kept in contact with the hair for a time effective to dye the hair. Typically, the hair dye composition is allowed to act on the hair for about 2 minutes to about 60 minutes, preferably about 15 minutes to about 45 minutes, more preferably about 30 minutes, at a temperature ranging from 15°C to about 50°C. The hair is then rinsed with water to remove the composition and dried. If necessary, the hair is washed with a shampoo, rinsed with water or a weak acid solution, such as a citric acid or tartaric acid solution, and dried. Optionally, a separate conditioning product may also be provided.
[0204] Thus, a method of treating hair with the composition comprises: (i) providing a tint composition comprising a gel network thickener system, and, if present, an alkalizing agent and an oxidized precursor dye and / or a direct dye; (ii) providing a developer composition comprising an oxidizing agent; (iii) mixing the developer composition with the dye composition to obtain a hair colouring composition according to the present invention; (iv) applying to the hair a composition for oxidation dyeing of keratinous fibers.
[0205] Glycerol may be included in the dye composition or in the developer composition, or may be distributed in both components. Typically, glycerol is included at least in the dye composition, where it acts as a solvent for the dye.
[0206] The method may further include waiting a period of time, typically between 2 minutes and 60 minutes, followed by rinsing the hair coloring composition from the hair. The hair coloring composition may be applied to the hair via an applicator bottle or brush. Common highlight applicator foils, caps, and specialized applicators may be used, allowing full head or partial single strand (highlight application), but also freehand techniques such as balayage with a brush and / or comb. The composition may also be applied as a mousse, via a manual spray, pressurized container, or aerosol mousse. The composition may be dispensed as a solid form to which water is added to generate an oxidizing agent and form a thickened vehicle suitable for hair coloring.
[0207] Manufacturing method - kit The coloring compositions of the present invention, and the corresponding tint and developer compositions, can be manufactured by conventional processes known in the art for manufacturing oxidation dye products, by mixing the ingredients of each component composition in a suitable container and then packaging them in suitable individual containers, which may be packaged, for example, in plastic or aluminum bottles.
[0208] In particular, the present invention may be provided as a kit comprising different components to be mixed by a consumer or salon stylist to obtain a hair dye composition according to the present invention. Such a kit may comprise a colour composition and a developer composition, as described above.
[0209] The kit may be presented in a single package containing the color composition, the developer composition, and optionally separate containers for a conditioner, color refresher or other hair treatment product, instructions for use, gloves. The instructions for use include the steps of the method described above and, optionally, provide visual cues or pictures for the desired steps of the method. Kits are typically sold as retail products, with each component containing enough material to prepare a hair dye composition for a single use.
[0210] The composition can be dispensed as a foam, for example, using a pump or a manually actuable non-aerosol dispenser such as a squeeze foamer, an aerosol mousse, etc. See, for example, EP613,728B1, WO97 / 013585A1, EP1,716,933A1, US3,709,437, US3,937,364, US4,022,351, US4,147,306, US4,184,615, US4,615,467 and FR2,604,622. A specific example of a squeeze foamer useful herein can be dispensed from an upright or inverted position, as described in U.S. Patent No. 6,604,693, assigned to Taplast, Inc., more specifically, in column 2, line 65 to column 4, line 67 of the same patent.
[0211] The composition may also be dispensed as a solid form to which water is added to generate the oxidizing agent and form a thickened vehicle suitable for hair coloring. EXAMPLES
[0212] The following examples illustrate oxidative dye compositions according to the present disclosure. It is understood that the examples and embodiments described herein are for illustrative purposes only, and various modifications or changes in light of the present disclosure may be suggested to those skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the present disclosure.
[0213] Examples 1 and 2 [Table 1]
[0214] The composition of Sample 1 (Part A) has a pH of about 10.5. The composition of Sample 2 (Part A) has a pH of about 7.5.
[0215] The following developer composition is prepared (Part B): [Table 2]
[0216] The Part B composition has a pH of 2.5.
[0217] Parts A and B are mixed before application to the hair. Sample 1 (Part A) mixed with Part B has a composition pH of about 10. Sample 2 (Part A) mixed with Part B has a composition pH of about 7.
[0218] Examples 3 and 4 The following hair coloring composition is prepared (Part A): [Table 3]
[0219] The composition of Sample 1 (Part A) has a viscosity of less than 1000 cPs. The composition of Sample 2 (Part A) has a viscosity in the range of 1000 to 60000 cPs.
[0220] The following developer composition is prepared (Part B): [Table 4]
[0221] Part A and Part B are mixed prior to application to the hair, and the viscosity of the mixed formulation is in the range of 1000-60000 cPs (e.g., 2000-30000 cPs or 3000-25000 cPs).
[0222] Terms Section 1 1. A hair colouring or bleaching composition comprising: i) at least one alkalizing agent; ii) less than 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair coloring or bleaching composition, of at least one oxidizing agent; iii) at least one gel network thickener system, a) a first surfactant component selected from C14-30 alkyl phosphates, C14-C30 alkyl ether phosphate ester salts, and mixtures thereof; b) a second component selected from a C14 to C30 fatty alcohol; c) a third surfactant component selected from a polyoxyethylene C8 to C30 alkyl ether; and the composition further comprises at least 0.05% polysaccharide, at least 3% polyol selected from propylene glycol, butoxydiglycol, ethoxydiglycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, and mixtures thereof; A composition, wherein the composition has a pH of less than 9, and wherein the buffer system maintains the pH of the composition between 6-8. Section 2 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein component ii) is contained in a container separate from at least one of components i) and iii) and is combined with at least one of components i) and iii) prior to use. Section 3 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hair coloring or bleaching composition has a pH of less than 8. Section 4 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hair coloring or bleaching composition has a pH of about 6 to about 8. Section 5 2. The composition according to paragraph 1, wherein the hair coloring or bleaching composition comprises from about 0.2% to about 2% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 1% by weight, of at least one oxidizing agent. Section 6 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hair coloring or bleaching composition further comprises a pigment that exhibits the final color developed from the hair coloring or bleaching composition. Section 7 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hair coloring or bleaching composition further comprises up to 10% by weight of charcoal. Section 8 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hair coloring or bleaching composition further comprises at least about 0.1% by weight of at least one chelating agent. Section 9 Item 9. The composition according to item 8, wherein the chelating agent is selected from carboxylic acids (especially amino carboxylic acids such as EDDS (ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid)), phosphonic acids (especially amino phosphonic acids such as DTPMP (diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid)), and polyphosphoric acids (especially linear polyphosphoric acids), their salts and derivatives. Section 10 13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one agent that provides a benefit beyond color. Section 11 11. The composition of clause 10, wherein at least one agent renders hair more manageable. Section 12 11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the at least one agent is at least one conditioning agent. Section 13 Item 13. The composition of item 12, wherein the conditioning agent is a silicone material, an aminosilicone, a fatty alcohol, a polymeric resin, a polyol carboxylic acid ester, a cationic polymer, a cationic surfactant, an insoluble oil and an oil-derived material, and mixtures thereof. Section 14 13. The composition of paragraph 12, wherein the conditioning agent is mineral oil. Section 15 15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein at least one buffer system comprises at least one alkalizing agent. Section 16 16. The composition of claim 15, wherein the at least one alkalizing agent comprises a source of hydroxide ions, carbonate ions, carbamate ions, bicarbonate ions, or a mixture thereof. Section 17 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one buffer system comprises at least one of disodium phosphate and / or monosodium phosphate. Section 18 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the third surfactant is selected from polyoxyethylene C14-C30 alkyl ethers having at least 50, preferably 100-200, ethylene oxide units. Section 19 19. The composition according to any one of items 1 to 18, wherein the composition has a viscosity of 9 to 16 Pas, preferably 9 to 15 Pas, more preferably 10 to 14 Pas, and most preferably 11 to 13 Pas. Section 20 20. The composition according to any one of items 1 to 19, wherein the composition has a viscosity of 1 to 6 Pas, preferably 2.5 to 4 Pas. Section 21 21. The composition of any one of paragraphs 1 to 20, wherein the composition comprises at least one oxidative dye precursor or / and at least one preformed dye. Section 22 22. A method of treating hair, comprising the steps of applying the composition according to any one of paragraphs 1 to 21, leaving the composition on the hair for 2 to 60 minutes, and then rinsing the composition from the hair. Section 23 1. A hair coloring composition comprising: i) at least one primary dye and at least one dye coupler, each selected to provide a hair color in the CIE L*a*b* gray color space and a hair color that fades in the CIE L*a*b* gray color space; ii) optionally at least one buffer system; iii) less than 2% by weight of at least one oxidizing agent, based on the total weight of the hair coloring composition, and a hair coloring composition having a pH of less than 9. Item 24 The hair coloring composition according to item 23, wherein the hair color fades within the CIE L*a*b* gray color space defined by the following L*a*b* values: -1 < a < 4 and 0 < b < 12. Item 25 The hair coloring composition according to item 23, wherein the hair color fades within the CIE L*a*b* gray color space defined by the following L*a*b* values: 25 < L < 80. Item 26 The hair coloring composition according to item 23, wherein at least one primary dye is selected from p-aminophenol, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 3-methyl-p-aminophenol, methoxymethyl-1,4-diaminobenzene, 2,5-toluenediamine sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Item 26 The hair coloring composition according to any one of items 23 to 25, wherein at least one dye coupler is selected from resorcinol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methylresorcinol, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, and mixtures thereof. Item 27 The hair coloring composition according to item 23, wherein component iii) is contained in a separate container from at least one of components i) and ii) and is combined with at least one of components i) and ii) before use. Item 28 The hair coloring composition according to item 23, having a pH of less than 8. Item 29 The hair coloring composition according to item 23, having a pH of about 6 to about 8. Item 30 The hair coloring composition according to item 23, containing about 0.2% to about 2% by weight, or about 0.5% to about 1% by weight of at least one oxidizing agent. Item 31 24. A hair colouring composition according to paragraph 23, wherein the hair colouring composition further comprises up to 10% by weight of charcoal. Section 32 24. A hair colouring composition according to paragraph 23, wherein the hair colouring composition further comprises at least about 0.1% by weight of at least one chelating agent. Section 33 33. A hair colouring composition according to paragraph 32, in which the chelating agent is selected from carboxylic acids (especially amino carboxylic acids such as EDDS (ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid)), phosphonic acids (especially aminophosphonic acids such as DTPMP (diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid)), and polyphosphoric acids (especially linear polyphosphoric acids), salts and derivatives thereof. Section 34 24. A hair colouring composition according to paragraph 23, wherein the hair colouring composition further comprises at least one agent which provides a benefit beyond colour. Section 35 35. A hair colouring composition, according to paragraph 34, wherein at least one agent renders the hair more manageable. Section 36 35. A hair color composition according to paragraph 34, wherein the at least one agent is at least one conditioning agent. Section 37 Item 37. A hair coloring composition according to item 36, wherein the conditioning agent is a silicone material, an amino silicone, a fatty alcohol, a polymeric resin, a polyol carboxylic acid ester, a cationic polymer, a cationic surfactant, an insoluble oil and an oil-derived material, and mixtures thereof. Section 38 37. A hair colouring composition according to paragraph 36, wherein the conditioning agent is mineral oil, glycerin and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. Section 39 39. A hair colouring composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs 23 to 38, further comprising at least one buffer system. Section 40 24. A hair colouring composition according to paragraph 23, wherein at least one buffer system comprises disodium phosphate. Section 41 iv) A hair colouring composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs 23 to 40, further comprising at least one gel network thickener system. Section 42 Item 23. The hair coloring composition according to any one of items 23 to 41, wherein the composition has a viscosity of 1000 to 60000 cPs, 2000 to 30000 cPs, or 3000 to 25000 cPs. Section 43 1. A method of treating hair, comprising the steps of applying a composition according to any one of preceding paragraphs 23 to 42, leaving the composition on the hair for 2 to 60 minutes, and then rinsing the composition from the hair.
Claims
1. 1. A hair colouring or bleaching composition comprising: i) a buffer system comprising at least one acidic and alkaline buffer compound; ii) 0.5-1% by weight of at least one oxidizing agent, based on the total weight of the hair coloring or bleaching composition; iii) at least one gel network thickener system, a) a first surfactant component selected from C14-30 alkyl phosphates, C14-C30 alkyl ether phosphate ester salts, and mixtures thereof; b) a second component selected from a C14 to C30 fatty alcohol, and c) a gel network thickener system comprising a third surfactant component selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C30 alkyl ethers; the composition further comprises 0.05% or more of a polysaccharide and 3% or more of a polyol selected from propylene glycol, butoxydiglycol, ethoxydiglycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, and mixtures thereof; A hair colouring or bleaching composition, wherein said composition has a pH of from 6 to 8, and said buffer system maintains the pH of said composition between 6 and 8.
2. 10. The hair coloring or bleaching composition of claim 1, wherein said hair coloring or bleaching composition further comprises up to 10% by weight of charcoal, based on the total weight of the composition.
3. 3. A hair colouring or bleaching composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said hair colouring or bleaching composition further comprises 0.1% or more by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one chelating agent.
4. A hair colouring or bleaching composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising at least one conditioning agent.
5. A hair colouring or bleaching composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said at least one buffer system comprises at least one alkalizing agent.
6. A hair colouring or bleaching composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one buffer system comprises at least one of disodium phosphate and / or monosodium phosphate.
7. A hair colouring or bleaching composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said composition comprises at least one oxidative dye precursor or / and at least one preformed dye.
8. A hair colouring composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, i) at least one primary dye and at least one dye coupler, each selected to provide a hair color in the CIE L*a*b* gray color space and a hair color that fades in the CIE L*a*b* gray color space; A hair coloring composition, wherein said hair color fades within the CIE L*a*b* gray color space defined by the following L*a*b* values: -1<a<4, 0<b<12, and 25<L<80.
9. 9. A hair coloring composition according to claim 8, wherein said at least one primary dye is selected from p-aminophenol, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 3-methyl-p-aminophenol, methoxymethyl-1,4-diaminobenzene, 2,5-toluenediamine sulfate, and mixtures thereof, and / or said at least one dye coupler is selected from resorcinol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methylresorcinol, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, and mixtures thereof.
10. 10. A kit for obtaining a hair colouring or bleaching composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, or for obtaining a hair colouring composition according to claim 8 or 9, comprising a first part containing at least one oxidizing agent and a second part containing other ingredients.
11. 10. A method of treating hair, comprising the steps of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, leaving the composition on the hair for 2 to 60 minutes, and thereafter rinsing the composition from the hair.
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