Steam Jet Bulking of Multicomponent Yarns for Improved Textile Post-Processing

Abstract

Processes for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns, yarns produced via these processes, packages of wound multicomponent yarns produced via these processes, and stretch fabrics, and articles of manufacture of these yarns and stretch fabrics are provided. [Selected Figure] Figure 1

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present disclosure relates to a method for making bulk multicomponent yarns and products including the multicomponent yarns produced from steam texturing according to the present process to obtain controlled stretch parameters in the treated yarns. [Background technology]

[0002] The production of stretch fabrics in which the stretch base is non-spandex derived is desirable for applications requiring durability and compatibility with specific textile processing methods.

[0003] Non-limiting examples of fibers for these stretch fabrics include multicomponent yarns, such as bicomponent filament yarns containing PET and PTT polymers. These conventional bicomponent yarns exhibit high levels of shrinkage and retraction when heat is used to activate differential polymer shrinkage to form permanent bulk. The knitting and weaving process of fabrics using these yarns is challenging because this large change in yarn length reduction must be accommodated to maintain weight control and create fabrics with acceptable appearance and stretch. Unless the yarn is treated with an intermediate conversion step, bicomponent yarns are limited to applications that support fabric designs that allow yarn self-bulking to substantially reduce fiber length upon exposure to heat. Direct introduction of bicomponent yarns into package dyeing operations is inefficient due to potential collapse of the tube core and / or insufficient bulk development under winding conditions when length reduction is limited due to winding conditions. Furthermore, when high yarn shrinkage occurs, it is difficult to obtain consistent color in package dyeing processes. Unless the tube core is crushed by high compression, yarn shrinkage on the tube increases package density to the point where the dye does not flow evenly through the package, which results in uneven relative dye loads throughout the package, resulting in rejects or streaks when introduced into the fabric.

[0004] Textile processing companies have recognized these challenges when package dyeing bicomponent yarns. A variety of complex equipment designs have been disclosed to address these challenges, including drum relaxation as disclosed in GB Patent No. 1198035. Methods such as hank dyeing have also been disclosed that are significantly less efficient and / or require the acquisition of unconventional equipment.

[0005] What is needed are alternative treated multicomponent yarns derived from other than spandex and methods for their manufacture and use in stretch fabrics. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The present disclosure relates to a process that uses steam in a direct impingement method with advanced supercharge conditions to initiate bulking of multicomponent yarns, including heat-activated elastomeric filament yarns. This bulk pre-development by entanglement loop generation with thermal coil generation allows these yarns to be processed in knitting or weaving textile processing equipment to provide improved control over the stretch properties of the final fabric. The use of monocomponent and bicomponent yarns in combination is also possible to reduce the number of yarns required in downstream processes and to add control over the amount of stretch generated in the final yarn. The range of yarns that can be processed in this manner covers the full range of normal apparel fibers (<600 dtex) and industrial applications (>200 dtex). The process allows multiple ends of the yarn to be twisted to increase the dtex in the bulking operation to the desired final level with fewer feed yarn variants. The yarns can be wound onto cardboard or plastic tubes that allow for direct introduction into package dyeing equipment for textile applications that require coloring in the yarn prior to knitting or weaving the yarn.

[0007] Accordingly, one aspect of the present disclosure relates to a process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns in which the multicomponent yarns are highly supercharged, for example, from greater than 30% supercharge to an upper limit of over 300%, into an entanglement jet using steam at a pressure of 10 psig or greater as a fluid medium to provide partial thermal bulking and entanglement texturing of the multicomponent fibers.

[0008] In one non-limiting embodiment, the resulting product is wound onto a cardboard or plastic tube to allow for direct processing into further textile processing equipment.

[0009] In some non-limiting embodiments, heated water having a temperature above 60° C., and in most embodiments a temperature between 70-100° C., is introduced prior to the entanglement jet.

[0010] In some non-limiting embodiments, multiple feed yarns are twisted at a point before the entanglement jet inlet.

[0011] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to multicomponent yarns prepared from a process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns, in which the multicomponent yarns are highly supercharged into an entanglement jet using steam at a pressure greater than 10 psig as a fluid medium to provide partial thermal bulking and entanglement texturing of the multicomponent fibers.

[0012] Another aspect of the disclosure relates to a package of multicomponent yarns wound on either a cardboard or plastic tube. In one non-limiting embodiment, the wound multicomponent yarn package creates bulk by heat activation with a percent bulking efficiency (%BE) greater than 15%. In one non-limiting embodiment, the wound multicomponent yarn package has a package weight greater than 1 kg.

[0013] Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to stretch textiles knitted or woven from multicomponent yarns prepared from a process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns, in which the multicomponent yarns are supercharged at a high rate into an entanglement jet using steam at a pressure greater than 10 psig as a fluid medium to provide partial thermal bulking and entanglement texturing of the multicomponent fibers.

[0014] Yet another aspect of the present disclosure relates to an article including a multicomponent yarn or a multicomponent yarn stretch textile prepared from a process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns, in which the multicomponent yarns are highly super-fed into an entanglement jet using steam at a pressure greater than 10 psig as a fluid medium to provide partial thermal bulking and entanglement texturing of the multicomponent fibers. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0015] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 illustrates a schematic of a non-limiting embodiment of the present disclosure for a steam texturing process for multicomponent yarns. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0016] The present disclosure relates to multicomponent directly spun fibers with the ability to develop permanent bulk by differential shrinkage where one of the yarns is treated to develop bulk by direct high pressure steam impingement of the fiber.

[0017] The disclosed process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns involves supercharging the multicomponent yarn into an entanglement jet at a high rate using steam as a fluid medium and pressure to provide partial thermal bulking by thermal shrinkage and entanglement texturing of the multicomponent fibers.

[0018] The multicomponent yarns used in the process may include a juxtaposed bicomponent or an eccentric sheathed core bicomponent, where the two components exhibit different shrinkage when exposed to heat, the shrinkage imparting a coiled structure to the yarn. It may be desirable to include one component of the yarn that is an elastomeric yarn, where the yarn length is substantially reduced by heat shrinkage.

[0019] The components are material choices and may include PET and PET with a viscosity difference between the two components, PTT and PTT with a viscosity difference between the two components, PTT and PET with two components having different formulations or viscosities, PET and PBT, nylon and nylon, and other material choices known to those skilled in the art may also be used. In addition to the use of bicomponent yarns, monocomponent yarns can be used in combination with bicomponent yarns to produce combination yarns that can create special aesthetic appearances and simplify the number of yarn feeders in downstream knitting or weaving processes. One example is the use of PET single partially oriented yarns in combination with bicomponent PET / PTT yarns to tailor the desired stretch component content with controlled stretch. A second example is the use of black PET fully oriented yarns in combination with bicomponent PET / PTT yarns to create a heathered yarn effect.

[0020] For purposes of this disclosure, a "high rate" with respect to feeding or supercharging a multicomponent yarn into an entanglement jet means a rate of supercharging greater than 30%. Thus, in one non-limiting embodiment of the invention, the multicomponent yarn is supercharged at a rate of greater than 30%.

[0021] In one non-limiting embodiment, the process used to steam multi-component yarn for analysis is to place the full length of yarn on a steam table and steam the sample for a minimum of 30 seconds in a relaxed state.

[0022] The steam pressure used in the process can range from 10 psig to 60 psig.

[0023] In some non-limiting embodiments, the process further includes winding the resulting product onto a cardboard or plastic tube to allow for direct processing of the bulked multicomponent yarn into further textile processing equipment.

[0024] In one non-limiting embodiment, the process is assisted by introducing heated water prior to the introduction of steam to maximize fiber temperature within the shrinkage range and enhance entanglement efficiency. In one non-limiting embodiment, the water is heated to a temperature above 70° C.

[0025] In one non-limiting embodiment, multiple feed yarns are twisted at a point before entering the entanglement jet. This combination of multiple twist yarns increases the dtex of the feed. For example, if the standard product manufactured to be used as the feed yarns includes 75 dtex, 150 dtex, and 300 dtex, and a 450 dtex product is desired, one end of 300 dtex and one end of 150 dtex are added together and twisted before being introduced into the jet. Twisting refers to running two or more ends through the same guide together as one yarn for the remainder of the process.

[0026] A non-limiting embodiment of an apparatus that can be used in the process of the present disclosure is shown in FIG. 1. As shown in FIG. 1, a stationary creel 1 holds a feed yarn package and delivers the feed yarn to a supercharge roll. The feed yarn 2 can be fed as a single package or multiple twisted yarns can be combined to increase the dtex of the feed. A driven supercharge roll 3 feeds the yarn at a rate 30% to 400% faster than the post-jet speed. A heated water tank 5 with an applicator 4 introduces heated water to the yarn. A steam supplier 6 with a regulator controls the steam pressure from 10 psig to 60 psig. As shown in FIG. 1, the apparatus further comprises a jet 7 suitable for entanglement, such as an air texturing jet. Non-limiting examples include ceramic or metal texturing jets or other entanglement jet designs. Additionally, the apparatus comprises a driven pulley roll 8 and a standard winding device 9 capable of winding the yarn at low tension onto a cardboard or plastic dye tube 10. It may be desirable to supercharge the multicomponent yarn into the entanglement jet at a high rate using steam as a fluid medium and pressure to provide partial thermal and steam bulking of the multicomponent fiber. In this embodiment, the multicomponent yarn may desirably be an elastomeric yarn that experiences a 20% decrease in yarn length due to heat shrinkage.

[0027] However, as will be understood by those of skill in the art upon reading this disclosure, the processing conditions and equipment used can be varied to control the amount of final bulk and stretch to match the desired amount of stretch for applications where low to moderate stretch is desired while maintaining good recovery properties. A wide range of supercharge and steam adjustment ranges can be used to vary the amount of potential bulk development to match the intended end product stretch requirements. Additionally, winding conditions can be varied to allow for direct use or direct package dyeing prior to use in textile fabric processing equipment.

[0028] The present disclosure also relates to multicomponent yarns prepared from the present process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns, and to yarn packages, fabrics, and products prepared from the yarns and fabrics.

[0029] The resulting multicomponent yarns prepared from this process contain high bulk with low shrinkage, allowing subsequent textile processing to be carried out without additional intermediate process steps. A major benefit is that larger weight packages can be wound onto plastic or cardboard dye tubes and introduced into package dyeing equipment.

[0030] The wound multicomponent yarn packages of the present disclosure create bulk by heat activation with a percent bulking efficiency (%BE) greater than 15%. The %BE is a key factor in determining whether a product can be processed through a package dyeing process without excessive additional bulking and shrinkage occurring in the dyeing process causing tube collapse or affecting liquid flow resulting in uneven dyeing. Success has been achieved when this value is 15% or greater. The %BE of products using bicomponent PTT / PTT fully drawn feed yarns in the dtex range of 55-600 dtex have produced %BEs in the range of 15-67%. Packages in this range have been successfully dyed in the package dyeing process. The %BE is used as a correlation factor to control the final elongation of the yarns to be further processed to tailor the product to the desired fabric stretch value.

[0031] In one non-limiting embodiment, the package has a package weight of greater than 1 kg. In one non-limiting embodiment, the resulting product formed from the bulking operation has a weight of 2 kilograms or more with low density (low hardness).

[0032] The products made by this process are useful for package dyeing for knitting and / or weaving processes, and direct knitting and / or weaving processes where it is desirable to have low shrinkage through the finishing process to control stretch properties and fabric weight, and / or to adjust the amount of stretch in the bulk fibers to obtain target stretch properties in the final fabric form. In one non-limiting embodiment, the yarn made by the process of the present disclosure is used to knit or weave stretch fabrics. The final fabric garments are applicable to apparel end uses of shoes, socks, woven shirts and shorts, and those that require good fabric stretch and recovery using low temperature finishing processes to protect the companion fibers from heat damage. In one embodiment, the use of the yarn in fabric shoe uppers allows the use of controlled stretch components with high recovery to eliminate the need for low melt yarns to suppress excessive stretch when spandex yarns are used as the stretch engine. The bulk yarns are also applicable to industrial fabrics where the stretch components need to be stable and not in spandex form for durability.

[0033] All patents, patent applications, test procedures, priority documents, articles, publications, manuals, and other documents cited herein are incorporated by reference in their entirety to the extent such disclosure is not inconsistent with the present invention and for all jurisdictions where such incorporation is permitted.

[0034] The following test methods and examples demonstrate the present invention and its use capability. The present invention is capable of other and different embodiments, and its several details can be modified and / or substituted in various obvious respects without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, the examples should be regarded as illustrative and non-limiting in nature.

[0035] Test Method Percent Bulking Efficiency (%BE) To adequately define the result of the process of providing bulk to the yarn and to provide a test method that allows for a quick test measurement method result, the following formula is used to describe the percent bulking efficiency (%BE). %BE=((SSLB-SSLF) / (ISL-SSLF))*100 During the ceremony: ISL = Initial sample length selected for all samples SSLF ​​= Steam Shrinkage Length of Bicomponent Feed Yarn SSLB = Steam shrinkage length of bulk yarn

[0036] As an example, the test method has a 50% bulking efficiency value under the following conditions: ISL=36 inches SSLF=9 inches SSLB=22.5 inches %BE=((22.5 inches - 9 inches) / (36 inches - 9 inches))*100=50% EXAMPLES

[0037] Example 1 Bicomponent PET / PTT fully oriented yarn of 165 dtex is produced in a package size of 2 kg in a plastic dye tube with dimensions of 11.4 inches by 3 inches. The %BE is 60%. The process conditions were established as follows: Steam pressure of 28 psig 360ypm feed rate 250% supercharging ratio Heberlein "A" Series Ceramic Jet Water is supplied from boiling water at 40ml / min.

[0038] Example 2 A 167 dtex bicomponent PET / PTT drawn pseudo-twist textured yarn is produced in 2 kg packages in plastic dye tubes with dimensions of 11.4" x 3". The %BE is 58%. The process conditions were established as follows: 35 psig steam pressure 530ypm feed rate 215% supercharging ratio Heberlein "A" Series Ceramic Jet Supply water from boiling water at 40ml / min

[0039] Example 3 Both ends of 165 dtex PET / PTT fully oriented yarn are twisted in a creel to produce 2.7 kg packages in plastic dye tubes with dimensions of 11.4 inches by 3 inches. The %BE is 60%. The process conditions were established as follows: 32 psig steam pressure Feed rate of 398ypm 247% supercharging ratio Heberlein "A" Series Ceramic Jet Water is supplied from boiling water at 40ml / min.

[0040] Example 4 Bicomponent PET / PTT fully oriented yarn of 165 dtex is produced in 2 kg packages in plastic dye tubes with dimensions of 11.4 inches by 3 inches. The %BE is 19%. The process conditions were established as follows: Steam pressure of 16 psig Feed rate of 458ypm 55% supercharging ratio Heberlein "A" Series Ceramic Jet Supply water from boiling water at 40ml / min

[0041] Example 5 One end of the 165 dtex bicomponent PET / PTT fully oriented yarn is twisted with both ends of 83 dtex PET fully oriented yarn to produce 2 kg packages in plastic dye tubes with dimensions of 11.4 inches by 3 inches. The %BE is 44%. The process conditions were established as follows: 36 psig steam pressure Feed rate of 482ypm 45% supercharging ratio Heberlein "A" Series Ceramic Jet Supply water from boiling water at 40ml / min

Claims

1. 1. A process for steam jet bulking of a multicomponent yarn, comprising: supercharging the multicomponent yarn into an entanglement jet by greater than 30% using steam at a pressure of 10 psig or greater as a fluid medium to provide partial thermal and steam bulking of the multicomponent yarn; and introducing heated water into said multicomponent yarn prior to supercharging said multicomponent yarn into said entanglement jet.

2. 1. A process for steam jet bulking of a multicomponent yarn, comprising supercharging the multicomponent yarn into an entanglement jet by greater than 30% using steam at a pressure of 10 psig or greater as a fluid medium to provide partial thermal and steam bulking of said multicomponent yarn; A process in which multiple feed yarns are twisted at some point before entering the entanglement jet.

3. The process of claim 1 or 2, wherein the entanglement jet is an air texturing jet.

4. 3. The process of claim 1 or 2, wherein the multicomponent yarn is overfed by a ratio of greater than 30%.

5. 3. The process of claim 1 or 2, wherein the pressure is from 10 to 60 psig.

6. 10. The process of claim 1, wherein the heated water is heated to a temperature greater than 70°C.

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