High-stretch fabric
A multi-layer weave structure with a tricot weave and weft backing structure addresses the challenge of achieving high stretchability and bulkiness in fabrics, providing excellent elongation and recovery rates.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2024059915
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-04-03
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-12-04
AI Technical Summary
Existing stretch fabrics sacrifice either bulkiness or stretchability, failing to achieve both simultaneously, and existing technologies do not provide high elongation and elongation recovery rates in both the weft and bias directions.
A multi-layer weave structure combining a tricot weave with a warp double weave and a weft backing structure, where the weft yarns have three or more floats in the weft direction, providing high stretchability and flexibility.
The fabric achieves high elongation and elongation recovery rates in both the weft and bias directions, offering a bulky feeling and flexibility akin to a knit texture.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a stretch fabric having bulkiness (swelling feeling) and flexibility, and having high elongation and elongation recovery rates in the weft direction and the bias direction.
Background Art
[0002] Conventionally, stretch fabrics used for clothing are used for thin and / or thick fabrics, but their stretchability depends solely on elastic fibers. When trying to give the fabric a bulky feeling, the stretchability of the fabric is sacrificed. When trying to achieve a high elongation rate (high stretchability), the swelling feeling of the fabric is sacrificed. Further improvement is required for clothing fabrics that can achieve both bulkiness and stretchability.
[0003] Patent Document 1 discloses a stretch fabric having an appearance like a woven fabric, in which hard yarns are alternately arranged in the warp and weft, the hard yarns in the weft cross 6 to 24 warp yarns, and the fabric is woven with tension applied to the elastic yarns and then returned to normal tension. As the elastic yarns contract, the hard yarns bend to form loops. However, the fabric thickness is thin, and the stretchability is limited to the length of the yarns in the formed loop part, so it is not sufficient.
[0004] Patent Document 2 discloses a double warp denim having stretchability, which is a double warp weave with the warp being double-sided, the weft being single-sided, and using elastic fiber filaments. However, although bulkiness can be obtained by using a double warp weave, the surface and back tissues are twill or satin weaves, and the elongation rate is not sufficient.
[0005] Patent Document 3 discloses a fabric for swimming trunks that has elastic yarns in the weft direction, and in which a plain weave part and a double weave part are alternately repeated. In this fabric, the plain weave part is concave and the double weave part is convex, and by arranging these uneven parts in stripes parallel to the direction of the body's movement in water, the friction coefficient with the water flow can be reduced, and high stretchability can also be obtained. However, in the plain weave part, the fabric becomes thin, and in the double weave part, the fabric becomes thick, so it is difficult for the entire fabric to have a bulky feeling, and it is hard to say that it is a fabric that can be widely used for general clothing.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0006]
Patent Document 1
Patent Document 2
Patent Document 3
Summary of the Invention
Problems to be Solved by the Invention
[0007] An object of the present invention is to provide a fabric that has flexibility and high elongation rates and elongation recovery rates in the weft direction and the bias direction.
Means for Solving the Problems
[0008] As a result of intensive studies, the inventors of the present invention have found that a warp double weave structure in which the warp threads on the front side and the warp threads on the back side are alternately arranged in a certain pattern and the floating and sinking of the warp threads are reversed at the boundary position between the front and back structures, that is, a tricot weave structure having a ridged pattern in the warp direction, and further, a fabric having a structure in which the weft threads are backed so as to have three or more floating and sinking in the weft direction in a certain warp thread arrangement, can obtain a fabric that has flexibility during elongation and high elongation rates and elongation recovery rates in the weft direction and the bias direction, and thus completed the present invention.
[0009] The present invention may include the following. [1] A stretch fabric having a multi-layer weave structure, wherein the multi-layer weave structure is a compound of a tricot weave structure having a ridge pattern in the warp direction and being a warp double weave, and a weft backing structure, with the warps being common and the wefts of both structures being alternately arranged in a certain pattern, and the number of floats of the wefts constituting the weft backing structure with respect to the warps is 3 or more. [2] The stretch fabric according to [1], wherein the weft backing structure is a broken twill weave or a satin weave. [3] The stretch fabric according to [1] or [2], wherein the number of floats of the wefts constituting the weft backing structure is 15 or less. [4] The stretch fabric according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the weft is an elastic yarn. [5] The stretch fabric according to any one of [1] to [4], having an elongation rate of 35% or more. [6] A clothing item including the stretch fabric according to any one of [1] to [5]. [7] A sanitary material including the stretch fabric according to any one of [1] to [5]. [8] A household material including the stretch fabric according to any one of [1] to [5]. [9] An industrial material including the stretch fabric according to any one of [1] to [5]. [Effect of the Invention]
[0010] The fabric of the present invention has flexibility and high elongation rate and elongation recovery rate in the weft direction and bias direction, and thus can provide a fabric having a texture like that of a knit. Further, in a preferred form, a bulky feeling (swelling feeling) can be imparted to the fabric. [Brief Description of the Drawings]
[0011]
Figure 1
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Mode for Carrying Out the Invention
[0012] Next, the present invention will be described in detail. However, the present invention is not limited to the following embodiments and can be freely modified within the scope of the present invention.
[0013] One form of the present invention is a stretch fabric having a multi-layer weave structure, wherein the multi-layer weave structure is a warp double weave, and is a tricot weave structure having a ridge pattern in the warp direction and a weft backing structure, and the weft yarns of both structures are alternately arranged in a certain arrangement with the warp yarns in common. It consists of a composite weave structure, and the number of floats of the weft yarns constituting the weft backing structure with respect to the warp yarns is 3 or more.
[0014] (Materials that can be used for the fabric of this form) The material of the warp yarns used in this form is not particularly limited, and natural fibers or chemical fibers can be used. As natural fibers, vegetable fibers such as cotton, hemp, and kapok, and animal fibers such as silk, wool, mohair, llama hair, camel hair, rabbit hair, horse hair, and cow hair can be used. As chemical fibers, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, and polynosic, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, triacetate, and promix, and synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, polyethylene, polypropylene, polystyrene, and polyurethane, metal fibers, carbon fibers, glass fibers, and other fibers such as Japanese paper can be used. Also, natural rubber and synthetic rubber can be used as materials. From the perspective of the texture when used as clothing, it is preferable to use natural fibers, and it is particularly preferable to use vegetable fibers such as cotton and hemp. The thickness of the warp yarns can be appropriately selected as desired, but as the warp yarn diameter, cotton count In terms of conversion, those with a count of 1 to 300 can be used, preferably 10 to 120, and more preferably 20 to 80.
[0015] The material of the weft yarn used in this form is not particularly limited, and natural fibers or chemical fibers can be used. As natural fibers, vegetable fibers such as cotton, hemp, and kapok, and animal fibers such as silk, wool, mohair, llama hair, camel hair, rabbit hair, horse hair, and cow hair can be used. As chemical fibers, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, and polynosic, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, triacetate, and promix, and synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, polyethylene, polypropylene, polystyrene, and polyurethane can be used. Also, natural rubber and synthetic rubber can be used as materials. The thickness of the weft yarn can be appropriately selected as desired, but as the weft yarn diameter, those with a cotton count conversion of 1 to 300 can be used, preferably 10 to 120, and more preferably 20 to 80.
[0016] The weft yarns and / or warp yarns used in this embodiment are preferably elastic yarns containing elastic fibers or crimped processed yarns having stretchability in order to provide high stretchability. Specific elastic fibers include polyurethane fibers, polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) fibers, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) fibers, natural rubber, synthetic rubber, and the like. These elastic fibers may be used as filaments or spun yarns as they are, or as processed yarns obtained by combining them with non-elastic fiber materials. Examples of processed yarns include core-spun yarns (CSY) with elastic fiber filaments as the core and staple fibers arranged around them, air-covered yarns (ACY), filament twisted yarns (FTY), single covered yarns (SCY), double covered yarns (DCY), etc., in which elastic fiber filaments are interlaced or twisted with synthetic fibers, and all of them can be preferably used. Specific crimped processed yarns include those obtained by subjecting materials such as nylon filaments, polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) filaments, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) filaments, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) filaments, etc., to woolly processing, Brella processing, Italian processing, knit denit processing, pushing-in processing, composite false-twist processing, Taslan processing, interlacing processing, or those made into composite fibers by side-by-side compounding of two polymers, and any of them can be preferably used.
[0017] (Weave structure of this embodiment) The fabric of this embodiment is a multi-layer weave structure. A multi-layer weave refers to a fabric formed by overlapping two or more fabrics. In this embodiment, it is a warp double weave, which is a composite weave structure formed by combining a tricot weave structure having a ridged pattern in the warp direction and a weft backing structure, with the warp yarns being common and the weft yarns of both structures being arranged alternately in a certain pattern. The tricot weave has warp double weave and weft double weave. In this form, it is a warp double weave structure in which the warp threads on the front side and the warp threads on the back side are alternately arranged in a certain pattern, and the floating and sinking of the warp threads are arranged to be reversed at the boundary position between the front and back structures. The warp threads of the front and back structures may be alternately arranged every 1 to 3 threads, and it is preferably a structure in which one warp thread for the front is alternately arranged with one warp thread for the back, or a structure in which two warp threads for the front are alternately arranged with two warp threads for the back. The weft backing structure is a structure that backs the weft threads to the above tricot weave structure, and the weft threads are backed so as to have three or more floating and sinking in the weft direction in a certain warp thread arrangement. In this form, the number of floats of the weft threads constituting the backing structure with respect to the warp threads constituting the tricot weave structure is 3 or more, so in addition to the expansion and contraction derived from the structure of the tricot weave structure which is a warp double weave structure, the weft threads constituting the backing structure, combined with the elasticity due to the number of floats being 3 or more with respect to the warp thread arrangement constituting the tricot weave structure, result in a fabric having high stretchability and flexibility. The upper limit of the number of floats of the weft threads with respect to the warp thread arrangement is not particularly limited, but is usually 15 or less, may be 11 or less, may be 7 or less, or may be 5 or less.
[0018] The weft backing structure is not particularly limited as long as the number of floats of the weft threads constituting the backing structure is 3 or more with respect to the warp thread arrangement constituting the tricot weave structure, but from the viewpoint of good stretchability, it is preferably a broken twill weave or a satin weave. Examples of the broken twill weave include a 4 - ply broken twill weave, and it is preferably a 3 / 1 broken twill weave. Examples of the satin weave include a 5 - ply to 16 - ply satin weave or their broken structures, and it is preferably a 5 - ply to 12 - ply satin weave or their broken structures. Since the stretch fabric of the present invention uses common warp threads for the weft - attached structure and the tricot weave structure, it is preferable that the number of warp threads of the weft - attached structure and the tricot weave structure is the same when they are combined. In addition, the stretch fabric of the present invention is a fabric in which the weft yarns that form a tricot weave structure and the weft yarns that form a weft backing structure are combined so as to be alternately arranged in a certain order with the warp yarns in common. However, it is preferable that the weft yarns that form the warp tricot weave structure and the weft yarns that form the weft backing structure are alternately combined in an arrangement of 1:1, 1:2, 2:1, or 2:2.
[0019] (Method for manufacturing the fabric of this embodiment) Explanation of available looms: As long as it is possible to weave the stretch fabric structure of this embodiment, the loom is not particularly limited. However, a dobby loom or a jacquard loom with 16 frame sheets such as a rapier loom, an air jet loom, a water jet loom, or a sulzer loom can be used, and it can be manufactured according to a conventional method.
[0020] Applicable post-processing: For the stretch fabric structure of this embodiment, various finishing processes may be performed as needed. As the finishing processes, dyeing, raising, shearing, silk-screening, buffing, bleaching, heat setting, pleating, etc. can be performed.
[0021] (Method for measuring fabric properties) The stretch fabric of this embodiment has a high elongation rate and elongation recovery rate in the weft direction and the bias direction. Specifically, in the weft direction and / or the bias direction, it preferably has an elongation rate of 35% or more, more preferably 40% or more, and even more preferably 50% or more. The upper limit is not particularly limited and is usually 100% or less, and may be 90% or less. Also, in the weft direction and / or the bias direction, it preferably has an elongation recovery rate of 70% or more, more preferably 75% or more, and even more preferably 80% or more. The upper limit is not particularly limited and is usually 100% or less, and may be 95% or less. The elongation rate can be measured according to the JIS-L1096B method (constant load method), and the elongation recovery rate can be measured according to the JIS-L1096B-1 method (constant load method).
[0022] The basis weight of the stretch fabric of this embodiment is not particularly limited, but from the perspective of bulkiness, it is preferably 50 g / m 2 or more, more preferably 200 g / m 2 or more. The upper limit is not particularly limited, but it may usually be 1000 g / m 2 or less, and may be 600 g / m 2 or less.
[0023] The thickness of the stretch fabric of this embodiment can be appropriately set according to the usage scene of the fabric. It is usually 0.5 mm or more, preferably 0.6 mm or more, and usually 3 mm or less, preferably 2 mm or less. The thickness of the stretch fabric is measured using a thickness measuring instrument (dial thickness gauge), and when measuring, it can be measured according to the JIS-L1096A method (JIS method).
[0024] The stretch fabric of this embodiment has flexibility and high elongation rate and elongation recovery rate in the weft direction and bias direction, so it is suitable for various clothing items, sanitary materials, daily necessities or industrial materials. Suitable application examples as clothing items include pants-bottom clothing such as jeans, slacks, and skirts, outer clothing such as jackets, blousons, coveralls, and coats, inner clothing such as T-shirts, shirts, and blouses, and one-piece dresses, overalls, and jumpsuits. Suitable application examples as sanitary materials include taping tapes, compresses, bandages, masks, and supporters. Suitable application examples as daily necessities include interior products such as sofa covers and cushion covers, and bedding such as bed sheets, futon covers, and pillow covers. Suitable application examples as industrial materials include car seats in automobiles.
Examples
[0025] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited by the examples. (Example 1) For the warp, cotton yarn of cotton count 20 (combed yarn) was used, and for the weft, a core-spun yarn of cotton count 30 using a polyurethane filament of 40 denier for the core yarn and a core-spun yarn of cotton count 40 using a polyurethane filament of 40 denier for the core yarn were alternately used in a 1:1 arrangement, and with the weave structure described in FIG. 1, the warp was 82 threads per inch and the weft was 50 + 50 threads per inch, and it was woven on an air-jet loom to obtain a green fabric of a highly stretchable fabric with a width of 71 inches (mixing ratio C:PU = 95:5). For the obtained green fabric, regular finishing by continuous dyeing with reactive dyes was performed to obtain a highly stretchable fabric 1.
[0026] (Example 2) For the warp, cotton yarn of cotton count 20 (combed yarn) was used, and for the weft, a core-spun yarn of cotton count 30 using a polyurethane filament of 40 denier for the core yarn and a core-spun yarn of cotton count 40 using a polyurethane filament of 40 denier for the core yarn were alternately used in a 1:1 arrangement, and with the weave structure described in FIG. 2, the warp was 82 threads per inch and the weft was 50 + 50 threads per inch, and it was woven on an air-jet loom to obtain a green fabric of a highly stretchable fabric with a width of 71 inches (mixing ratio C:PU = 95:5). For the obtained green fabric, regular finishing by continuous dyeing with reactive dyes was performed to obtain a highly stretchable fabric 2.
[0027] (Example 3) For the warp, cotton yarn of cotton count 20 (combed yarn) was used, and for the weft, a core-spun yarn of cotton count 40 using a polyurethane filament of 40 denier for the core yarn was used, and with the weave structure described in FIG. 3, the warp was 82 threads per inch and the weft was 100 threads per inch, and it was woven on an air-jet loom to obtain a green fabric of a highly stretchable fabric with a width of 71 inches (mixing ratio C:PU = 95:5). For the obtained green fabric, regular finishing by continuous dyeing with reactive dyes was performed to obtain a highly stretchable fabric 3.
[0028] (Example 4) For the warp, cotton yarn of cotton count 60 (compact yarn) was used, and for the weft, a core - spun yarn of cotton count 40 using a polyurethane filament of 40 denier for the core was used. Using the weaving pattern described in Figure 4, it was woven on an air - jet loom so that there were 160 warp yarns per inch and 100 weft yarns per inch, and a highly stretchable fabric (mix ratio C:PU = 95:5) with a width of 71 inches was obtained in the loom state. Regarding the obtained loom state, regular finishing by continuous dyeing with reactive dyes was performed to obtain a highly stretchable fabric 4.
[0029] (Comparative Example 1) For the warp, cotton yarn of cotton count 20 (carded yarn) was used, and for the weft, a core - spun yarn of cotton count 20 using a polyurethane filament of 117 denier for the core was used. Using a 3 / 1 twill weave (3 / 1L) with an upward - left direction, it was woven on an air - jet loom so that there were 100 warp yarns per inch and 65 weft yarns per inch, and the overall width of the fabric was 71 inches. Then, a stretchable fabric 5 (mix ratio C:PU = 96:4) was obtained after regular finishing by continuous dyeing with reactive dyes and silk - like processing with liquid ammonia.
[0030] (Comparative Example 2) For the warp, cotton yarn of cotton count 30 (compact yarn) was used, and for the weft, a core - spun yarn of cotton count 16 using a polyurethane filament of 117 denier for the core was used. Using a 3 / 2 / / irregular dobby weave, it was woven on an air - jet loom so that there were 124 warp yarns per inch and 74 weft yarns per inch, and the overall width of the fabric was 68 inches. Then, a stretchable fabric 6 (mix ratio C:PU = 97:3) was obtained after regular finishing by continuous dyeing with reactive dyes.
[0031] (Test Example) Regarding the highly stretchable fabrics 1 - 3 obtained in Examples 1 - 3 and the stretchable fabrics 5 - 6 obtained in Comparative Examples 1 - 2, the elongation rate (%), elongation recovery rate (%), flexibility, and fabric thickness (mm) were measured respectively, and the results were summarized in Table 1. The criteria for flexibility were as follows. 〇: It can stretch well even with a small force. △: Slightly firm when stretched. ×: Firm when stretched.
[0032]
Table 1
[0033] From Table 1, the fabrics of Examples 1 to 3 all had elongation rates exceeding 40% and elongation recovery rates exceeding 80%, and had better elasticity than the fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 2, which are so-called high-power stretch, and were also excellent in flexibility, being able to stretch well with less force. In addition, the fabrics of Examples 1 to 4 were double-woven fabrics, had a bulky feeling, had a high-class feeling, and had a knitted texture, and were suitably used as fabrics for clothing items.
Claims
1. A garment comprising a stretch fabric having a multi-layer weave structure, The multi-weave structure is a combination of a warp double weave, a tricot weave having a ribbed pattern in the warp direction, and a weft backing structure, the warp threads of which are common to both structures, and the weft threads of both structures are alternately arranged in a fixed arrangement. The number of floating weft yarns constituting the weft backing structure relative to the warp yarns is 3 or more, The weft yarn is an elastic yarn, The tricot weave is a double warp weave in which the front warp threads and the back warp threads are alternately arranged in a fixed sequence, and the warp threads are arranged so that the ups and downs of the warp threads are reversed at the boundary between the front and back weaves, The clothing item is selected from the group consisting of pants / bottom clothing, outer clothing, inner clothing, one-piece dresses, overalls, and salopettes.
2. The article of clothing as described in claim 1, wherein the weft backing weave is a broken twill weave or a twill weave.
3. Clothing as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein the number of floats of the weft yarns constituting the weft backing structure is 15 or less.
4. A garment described in any one of claims 1 to 3, having a stretch rate of 35% or more.
5. An article of clothing described in any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the dress is a one-piece dress.
Citation Information
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