Improved cosmetic composition for the decoloration or the dyeing of keratin fibers
A cosmetic composition with alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes and alkoxylated glyceryl esters stabilizes direct dyes, addressing unintended hair shades and improving dye adhesion and hair feel.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022525531
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-10-31
- Filing Date
- 2020-10-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-28
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-10-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing depigmentation compositions for hair result in unintended shades, particularly warm yellow tones, due to the instability of direct dyes under harsh chemical conditions, and the use of oxidizable solvents affects the feel and stability of hair.
A cosmetic composition containing alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes and alkoxylated glyceryl esters or alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers, with a total concentration of 15% by weight and less than 40% water, stabilizes direct dyes under severe chemical conditions, improving dye adhesion and hair properties.
The composition enhances the dyeing ability of direct dyes on keratin fibers, reducing unintended shades and maintaining the cosmetic properties of hair.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the improved dyeing of keratin fibers. In particular, the adhesion of direct dyes to keratin fibers is improved. The composition can be used in a depigmentation / lightening process and / or a dyeing process.
Background Art
[0002] Depigmentation compositions and processes are important tools for changing the color of hair, especially for changing the shade of hair from dark to light, for fashion-sensitive consumers.
[0003] A common drawback of depigmentation compositions is that the resulting hair color has an unintended shade, which consumers strongly dislike. For example, a warm yellow shade is associated with the hair of heavy users of tobacco products.
[0004] To counteract these unintended shades, direct dyes for hair can be added to the depigmentation powder (Patent Document 1). The depigmentation powder is then mixed with an aqueous oxidizing composition to yield a reactive alkaline mixture. This harsh environment attacks the stability of the direct dye.
[0005] The prior art has addressed these problems by adding an oxidizable solvent to the aqueous depigmentation mixture to stabilize the direct dye (Patent Document 2). However, these solvents can change the viscosity of the aqueous depigmentation mixture and have a negative impact on the feel of the hair, which can cause consumer dissatisfaction.
[0006] The use of organopolysiloxanes and alkoxylated glyceryl esters, or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers alone, is generally known in the field of hair care (Patent Documents 3, 4).
[0007] For the reasons above, it is desirable to obtain a composition and method for further stabilizing direct dyes under severe chemical conditions without having any further negative effect on keratin fibers.
Prior art documents
Patent documents
[0008]
Patent Document 1
Patent Document 2
Patent Document 3
Patent Document 4
Summary of the invention
[0009] Therefore, a first object of the present invention is a) one or more alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes, and b) one or more compounds selected from alkoxylated glyceryl esters, and / or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers, and / or mixtures thereof, in a total concentration of 15% by weight or more calculated based on the total weight of the composition, comprising and containing less than 40% by weight of water calculated based on the total weight of the composition, a cosmetic composition.
[0010] A second object of the present invention is a kit of parts for decolorizing and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising - Composition A containing one or more alkalizing agents and optionally one or more peracids and / or peroxides, - Aqueous oxidation composition B, - Composition C as defined above, a kit of parts containing.
[0011] A third object of the present invention is a method for decolorizing and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising: i) mixing composition A as defined above, composition B as defined above, and composition C as defined above to produce a ready-to-use composition having a pH in the range of 7 to 12; ii) applying the ready-to-use composition to the keratin fibers and leaving it for from 1 minute to 60 minutes, preferably from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, more preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes; iii) rinsing the keratin fibers with water and optionally washing the keratin fibers with shampoo. The method comprises the steps of.
[0012] A fourth object of the present invention is the use of the composition as defined above for stabilizing direct dyes in the decolorization and / or lightening and / or dyeing process. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0013] The prior art has not yet provided a satisfactory solution to the problems described above. The inventors of the present invention have unexpectedly found that the composition according to claim 1 stabilizes direct dyes for hair in a ready-to-use decolorizing mixture. As a result, the dyeing ability of the direct dye is increased and the keratin fibers are more strongly colored. Furthermore, the cosmetic properties of the keratin fibers are improved.
[0014] [Cosmetic composition] The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a) one or more alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes; and b) one or more compounds selected from alkoxylated glyceryl esters and / or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers and / or mixtures thereof, at a total concentration of 15% by weight or more, calculated on the total weight of the composition; and contains less than 40% by weight of water, calculated on the total weight of the composition.
[0015] Compound of (a) The compound of (a) is an alkoxylated organopolysiloxane. Suitable alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes can be alkoxylated aminated or alkoxylated non-aminated organopolysiloxanes.
[0016] Suitable alkoxylated aminated organopolysiloxanes are PEG-x amodimethicone (x is an integer in the range of 2 to 100), PEG / PPG-x / y amodimethicone (x / y is in the range of 2 to 100), or mono- or bis-alkyl PEG / PPG-x / y amodimethicone (x and y are the same as above).
[0017] The alkoxylated non-aminated organopolysiloxane as the compound of (a) is preferably an alkoxylated dimethicone copolymer from the viewpoint of dyeing strength.
[0018] Suitable alkoxylated dimethicone copolymers are PEG-x dimethicone (x is an integer in the range of 2 to 100), PEG / PPG-x / y dimethicone (x / y is in the range of 2 to 100), and mono- or bis-alkyl PEG / PPG-x / y dimethicone (x and y are the same as above).
[0019] Further examples of such compounds are PEG / PPG-14 / 4 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-23 / 6 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-20 / 23 dimethicone; PEG-12 dimethicone and PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-6 / 4 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-6 / 11 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-8 / 14 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-8 / 26 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-10 / 2 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-12 / 16 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-12 / 18 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-14 / 4 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-15 / 5 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-15 / 15 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-16 / 2 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-16 / 8 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-18 / 6 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-18 / 12 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-19 / 19 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-20 / 15 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-20 / 23 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-20 / 29 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-22 / 23 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-22 / 24 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-23 / 6 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-25 / 25 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-27 / 27 dimethicone; PEG / PPG-30 / 10 dimethicone; and / or mixtures thereof.
[0020] The compound of a) is more preferably selected from ethoxylated dimethicone copolymers, propoxylated dimethicone copolymers, and / or ethoxylated / propoxylated dimethicone copolymers, and / or mixtures thereof, from the viewpoint of dyeing strength. The most preferred compound from the viewpoints of dyeing strength and stabilization of direct dyes is PEG / PPG-20 / 23 dimethicone.
[0021] The total concentration of the compound of a) is preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, still more preferably 10% by weight or more, calculated based on the total weight of the composition, from the viewpoints of dyeing strength and stabilization of the direct dye. The total concentration of the compound of a) is preferably 50% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, still more preferably 20% by weight or less, calculated based on the total weight of the composition, from the viewpoints of dyeing strength, stabilization of the direct dye, and solubility of the compound. To obtain the above effects, the total concentration of the compound of a) is in the range of 1% to 50% by weight, preferably 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably 10% to 20% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.
[0022] [Compound of b)] The composition of the present invention contains, as the compound of b), one or more compounds selected from alkoxylated glyceryl esters, and / or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers, and / or mixtures thereof, at a total concentration of 15% by weight or more, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.
[0023] One or more compounds of b) are ethoxylated and / or propoxylated and / or ethoxylated / propoxylated glyceryl esters with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C8 - C 22 fatty acids, preferably linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C 14 ~C 22 fatty acids.
[0024] Suitable compounds are PEG-10 olive oil glyceride, PEG-11 avocado oil glyceride, PEG-11 cocoa butter glyceride, PEG-13 sunflower oil glyceride, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glyceride, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, jojoba butter ethoxylate (PEG-26 jojoba fatty acid, PEG-26 jojoba alcohol), glycereth-5 cocoate, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glyceride, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glyceride, PEG-35 castor oil, olive oil PEG-7 ester, PEG-6 caprylic / capric acid glyceride, PEG-10 olive oil glyceride, PEG-13 sunflower oil glyceride, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil glyceride PEG-6 ester, PEG-20 corn oil glyceride, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate cocoate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 corn oil glyceride, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glyceride, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-60 almond oil glyceride, PEG-60 "matsuyoiga" glyceride, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate, PEG-90 glyceryl isostearate.
[0025] One or more of the compounds of b) are preferably PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-9 cocoglyceride, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG200-hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate from the viewpoint of dyeing strength.
[0026] One or more of the compounds of b) are more preferably optionally alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers having an unsaturated alkyl chain with 8 or more carbon atoms in total, preferably 9 or more carbon atoms in total, from the viewpoint of dye stabilization. The alkyl chain of the compound of b) is preferably a straight-chain or branched-chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 18 or fewer carbon atoms in total from the viewpoint of formulation stability. In order to obtain the above effects, the alkyl chain of the compound b) is preferably a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having a total carbon number in the range of 8 to 18, more preferably in the range of 9 to 18.
[0027] Suitable examples of the compound b) are isostearyl glyceryl ether, stearyl glyceryl ether, isodecyl glyceryl ether, 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether, and cetyl glyceryl ether, and alkyl polyglyceryl ethers, for example, as disclosed in European Patent Application Publication No. 2003110.
[0028] From the viewpoint of dyeing strength, the compound b) is preferably selected from ethoxylated glyceryl cocoate and / or isostearyl glyceryl ether.
[0029] From the viewpoints of dyeing strength and formulation stability, the total concentration of the compound b) is preferably 15% by weight or more, more preferably 20% by weight or more, still more preferably 30% by weight or more, calculated based on the total weight of the composition. From the viewpoint of solubility, the total concentration of the compound b) is preferably 80% by weight or less, more preferably 70% by weight or less, still more preferably 65% by weight or less, calculated based on the total weight of the composition. In order to obtain the above effects, the total concentration of the compound b) is preferably in the range of 15% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably in the range of 20% by weight to 70% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 30% by weight to 65% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.
[0030] From the viewpoint of formulation stability, the weight ratio of the compound a) to the compound b) is preferably in the range of 5:1 to 1:5, more preferably in the range of 1:1 to 1:5, still more preferably in the range of 1:2 to 1:4.
[0031] 〔Water content〕 The composition of the present invention contains less than 40% by weight of water. From the viewpoint of formulation stability, the composition preferably contains less than 30% by weight of water, more preferably less than 20% by weight of water, still more preferably less than 10% by weight of water, even more preferably less than 5% by weight of water, and even more preferably is anhydrous.
[0032] 〔Direct Dye〕 One aspect of the composition of the present invention is to contain one or more direct dyes. Preferably, the one or more direct dyes are selected from anionic, nonionic, and / or cationic direct dyes.
[0033] Suitable anionic direct dyes are Acid Black 1, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Food Blue 5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Red 1, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 50, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 88, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 155, Acid Red 180, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3, Food Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Violet 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, FD&C Red 2, FD&C Red 40, FD&C Red No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 6, FD&C Blue 1, Food Black 1, Food Black 2, Disperse Black 9 and Disperse Violet 1, and their alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium. Among these, the most preferred anionic dyes are Acid Red 52, DC Violet 2, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Red 27, DC Yellow 10, HC Blue 18, HC Red 18, and HC Yellow 16.
[0034] Suitable nonionic dyes containing nitro dyes are HC Blue No. 2, HC Blue No. 4, HC Blue No. 5, HC Blue No. 6, HC Blue No. 7, HC Blue No. 8, HC Blue No. 9, HC Blue No. 10, HC Blue No. 11, HC Blue No. 12, HC Blue No. 13, HC Brown No. 1, HC Brown No. 2, HC Green No. 1, HC Orange No. 1, HC Orange No. 2, HC Orange No. 3, HC Orange No. 5, HC Red BN, HC Red No. 1, HC Red No. 3, HC Red No. 7, HC Red No. 8, HC Red No. 9, HC Red No. 10, HC Red No. 11, HC Red No. 13, HC Red No. 54, HC Red No. 14, HC Violet BS, HC Violet No. 1, HC Violet No. 2, HC Yellow No. 2, HC Yellow No. 4, HC Yellow No. 5, HC Yellow No. 6, HC Yellow No. 7, HC Yellow No. 8, HC Yellow No. 9, HC Yellow No. 10, HC Yellow No. 11, HC Yellow No. 12, HC Yellow No. 13, HC Yellow No. 14, HC Yellow No. 15, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, picramic acid, 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-aminophenol, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-3-nitrobenzene, and 2-hydroxyethyl picramic acid.
[0035] Cationic dyes suitable for this purpose are those disclosed in International Publication No. 95 / 15144 of Ciba-Geigy AG. Further examples are Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Natural Brown 7, Basic Green 1, Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, HC Blue 17, and Basic Orange 31, Basic Blue 124.
[0036] However, preferred direct dyes for hair are selected from HC Blue 18, HC Red 18, and HC Yellow 16, and / or mixtures thereof, from the viewpoint of color strength.
[0037] The total concentration of the direct dye in the composition of the present invention, calculated with respect to the total weight of the composition, is preferably in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.01% to 8% by weight, and still more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 5% by weight, from the viewpoint of dyeing strength.
[0038] When the direct dye is present in the composition of the present invention, the weight ratio of the direct dye to the compound a)+b) is preferably in the range of 1:500 to 1:50, more preferably in the range of 1:250 to 1:75, and still more preferably in the range of 1:150 to 1:100, from the viewpoint of dyeing strength.
[0039] 〔Optional Component〕 The composition of the present invention may further contain one or more organic solvents. Suitable organic solvents are mono-, di-, and tri-alcohols. Particularly suitable ones are ethanol, phenoxyethanol, propylene glycol, and glycerol.
[0040] When an organic solvent is present, the appropriate concentration range, calculated with respect to the total weight of the composition, is 1% to 30% by weight, preferably 3% to 20% by weight.
[0041] 〔Kit of parts〕 The present invention relates to a kit of parts for decolorizing and / or brightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, - Composition A comprising one or more alkalizing agents and, optionally, one or more peracid salts and / or peroxo salts, - Aqueous oxidation composition B, - Composition C as defined above as the composition of the present invention, and also relates to a kit of parts containing the same.
[0042] Composition A can be a decolorizing powder composition A or an aqueous brightening composition A. When composition A is a decolorizing powder composition, it contains one or more alkalizing agents. Suitable alkalizing agents are metasilicates and disilicates, especially sodium metasilicate and sodium disilicate. The total concentration of metasilicate and / or disilicate in the decolorizing powder composition A, calculated with respect to the total weight of the decolorizing powder composition A, is preferably in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably in the range of 5% to 15% by weight from the viewpoint of alkalinity.
[0043] Other suitable alkalizing agents are carbonic acid and bicarbonate alkali salts, such as sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts. From the viewpoint of buffering capacity, the preferred salts are bicarbonates, and particularly preferred is ammonium bicarbonate. The appropriate concentration of carbonate in the decolorizing powder composition A, calculated with respect to the total weight of the decolorizing powder composition before mixing, is in the range of 0.25% to 10% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.75% to 5% by weight, and still more preferably in the range of 1% to 4% by weight from the viewpoints of buffering capacity and low hair damage.
[0044] The decolorizing powder composition A can further contain one or more peracid salts and / or peroxide salts. Suitable peracid salts and / or peroxide salts are sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, alkaline earth peroxides such as magnesium peroxide, maleimide peroxide, or urea peroxide, or phthalimide peroxyhexanoic acid. Preferred peracid salts from the viewpoint of decolorizing power are sodium, potassium, and ammonium persulfates.
[0045] The total concentration of the peracid salt and / or peroxide salt in the decolorizing powder composition, calculated based on the total weight of the decolorizing powder composition, is preferably in the range of 10% to 80% by weight, more preferably in the range of 15% to 70% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 20% to 60% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of 25% to 60% by weight, from the viewpoints of decolorizing power and the safety of the cosmetic.
[0046] When composition A is an aqueous lightening composition, it also contains one or more alkalizing agents. In principle, the same alkalizing agents as those disclosed in the above decolorizing powder composition A are suitable.
[0047] The pH of the aqueous lightening composition is preferably in the range of 7 to 12, more preferably in the range of 8 to 11, and still more preferably in the range of 8.5 to 10.5.
[0048] The aqueous lightening composition A is preferably an emulsion containing one or more lipophilic compounds.
[0049] From the viewpoint of dyeing strength, composition A preferably contains one or more direct dyes for hair, preferably selected from HC Red 18, HC Blue 18, and HC Yellow 16. The direct dyes for hair and their concentrations disclosed in the composition of the present invention are applicable.
[0050] From the viewpoints of the safety of the cosmetic and decolorizing / dyeing performance, composition B is preferably an aqueous oxidizing composition containing hydrogen peroxide.
[0051] From the perspective of the chemical safety of Composition B, the pH is preferably in the range of 1 to 6, more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 5, and even more preferably in the range of 2 to 4.
[0052] From the perspective of the decolorization / dyeing performance, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in Composition B, calculated based on the total weight of the composition, is preferably in the range of 1% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably in the range of 2% by weight to 15% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of 3% by weight to 12% by weight.
[0053] Composition C is the composition of the present invention.
[0054] 〔Method for Decolorizing / Whitening / Dyeing〕 The present invention relates to a method for decolorizing, and / or whitening, and / or dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising: i) mixing Composition A as defined above, Composition B as defined above, and the composition of the present invention to produce a ready-to-use composition having a pH in the range of 7 to 12; ii) applying the ready-to-use composition to the keratin fibers and leaving it for 1 minute to 60 minutes, preferably for 5 minutes to 45 minutes, more preferably for 10 minutes to 30 minutes; iii) rinsing the keratin fibers with water and optionally washing the keratin fibers with shampoo. The method including the above steps is also within the scope of the present invention.
[0055] Next, Composition A in step i) is mixed with Composition B in step i) and Composition C of the present invention to form a ready-to-use composition. The appropriate mixing weight ratio of Composition A and B is in the range of 5:1 to 1:5. Further, the appropriate mixing ratio of (Composition A + Composition B) and Composition C of the present invention is in the range of 4 to 50. Conventionally, examples of appropriate mixing ratios are 1:1:0.5, 1:1.5:0.05, 1:2:0.1, and 1:3:0.1 (Composition A:Composition B:Composition C of the present invention) based on weight.
[0056] Suitably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition ranges from 7 to 12. From the perspective of accelerating decolorization / staining, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is preferably in the range of 7.5 to 11, more preferably in the range of 8.0 to 10.5.
[0057] Next, as defined in step ii), the ready-to-use composition is applied to the keratin fibers and left for 1 minute to 60 minutes. The preferred time range in step ii) is 5 minutes to 45 minutes, more preferably 10 minutes to 35 minutes, from the perspective of sufficient development or decolorization of the oxidative hair color.
[0058] The weight ratio of the direct dye to the compounds a) + b) at the ready-to-use concentration is preferably in the range of 1:500 to 1:50, more preferably in the range of 1:250 to 1:75, still more preferably in the range of 1:150 to 1:100, from the perspective of the staining intensity.
[0059] Optionally, heat may be applied while the ready-to-use composition is left on the keratin fibers. The appropriate temperature range is 30°C to 50°C.
[0060] Thereafter, in step iii), the ready-to-use composition is rinsed off the keratin fibers, and the keratin fibers are optionally washed with shampoo and optionally blow-dried.
[0061] 〔Use of the composition〕 The present invention also relates to the use of the composition of the present invention as defined above for stabilizing direct dyes in a decolorization and / or lightening and / or staining process.
[0062] The composition of the present invention maintains chemical stability under severe chemical conditions and, similarly, improves the adhesion of direct dyes to keratin fibers. The following examples illustrate the present invention but do not limit the present invention.
Examples
[0063] Example 1 The following compositions were prepared by mixing all the components and stirring until completely dissolved. wt% PEG / PPG-20 / 23 Dimethicone * 18.0 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ** 58.0 Water up to 100.0
[0064] * Silwet L7001E obtained from Momentive Performance Materials Inc. ** Cetiol HE obtained from BASF Corp.
[0065] The following decolorizing powder composition A was prepared. wt% Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 3 EDTA Tetrasodium 2 Sodium Carbonate 1 Ammonium Persulfate 11 Potassium Persulfate 36 Sodium Metasilicate 10 HC Blue 18 0.2 Mineral Oil 4 Diatomaceous Earth up to 100.0
[0066] The following aqueous oxidation composition B was prepared. wt% Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 Ceteareth-30 1.6 Phosphoric Acid in sufficient amount to adjust to pH 2.5 EDTA Tetrasodium 0.05 Light Oil 3.0 Hydrogen Peroxide 3.0 Water up to 100.0
[0067] The decolorizing powder composition A was mixed with the aqueous oxidation composition B at a weight ratio of 1:2. Then, 0.1 part of the composition of the present invention was added to form a ready-to-use composition.
[0068] As a comparative composition, a mixture of a decolorized powder and an aqueous oxidation composition having the same weight ratio as above was used, and the composition of the present invention was replaced with 0.1 part of water.
[0069] Wool (2 g per bundle) and human hair streaks (21 cm, 2 g per bundle) were prepared for the decolorization experiment, and the color was measured using a color-difference meter according to the CIE color system (L * , a * , b * ) before the treatment. Then, the immediately available composition was applied and left on the hair streaks at 50 °C for 30 minutes. Then, the composition was rinsed off, the keratin fibers were washed with shampoo, and dried with a hair dryer. Then, the Lab values were recorded again. (L * , a * , b * ) Based on the measured values, ΔE was calculated based on the following equation.
[0070]
Equation
[0071]
Table 1
[0072] As shown in the above experimental results, the chroma is about 6 ΔE units higher in the composition of the present invention for human hair and about 5 ΔE units higher for wool. Therefore, the composition of the present invention enables better adhesion of direct dyes for hair to keratin fibers during the decolorization process.
[0073] Example 2 The following composition was prepared.
[0074]
Table 2
[0075] The composition was mixed with the decolorized powder and the oxidation composition of Example 1 using the same protocol. Human hair strands were treated with the ready-to-use composition, and the color results were measured in the same manner as described in Example 1.
[0076] Lower a * and b * values illustrate a cooler shade and better uptake of blue dye into the decolorized powder. Thus, consumers perceive a shade with less of the unwanted yellow tone.
[0077] In Comparative Composition 2, argan oil was used as a representative example of a natural oil. This composition is similar to that of French Patent No. 3059547. The prior art apricot kernel oil was replaced with argan oil, which is equally rich in oleic acid and linoleic acid.
[0078] Comparative Composition 3 illustrated the effect of reducing the concentration of the compound of b).
[0079] In all cases, the compositions of the present invention provided low a * and b * values and showed better stabilization when the direct dyes for hair were under oxidation conditions.
[0080] Example 3 The following compositions were prepared.
[0081] [Table 3]
[0082] The composition was mixed with the decolorized powder and the oxidation composition of Example 1 using the same protocol. Human hair strands were treated, and the color results were measured in the same manner as described in Example 1.
[0083] In all cases, the compositions of the present invention provided low a * and b *It provides a value and shows better stabilization when the direct dye for hair is under oxidation conditions.
[0084] Example 4 wt% PEG / PPG-20 / 23 Dimethicone 18.0 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 58.0 HC Blue 18 0.5 HC Yellow 16 0.1 HC Red 18 0.05 2-Aminomethylpropanol 0.5 Water up to 100.0
[0085] Example 5 wt% PEG / PPG-20 / 23 Dimethicone 18.0 Isostearoyl Glyceryl Ether 50.0 Propylene Glycol 15.0 Water up to 100.0
[0086] Example 6 wt% PEG / PPG-20 / 23 Dimethicone 18.0 Isostearoyl Glyceryl Ether 50.0 HC Blue 18 0.5 HC Yellow 16 0.1 HC Red 18 0.1 Water up to 100.0
[0087] Example 7 wt% PEG / PPG-20 / 23 Dimethicone 25.0 Isostearoyl Glyceryl Ether 75.0
[0088] Example 8 wt% PEG / PPG-20 / 23 Dimethicone 29.35 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 70.0 HC Blue 18 0.5 HC Yellow 16 0.1 HC Red 18 0.05
Claims
1. a) one or more alkoxylated dimethicone copolymers, and b) ethoxylated glyceryl cocoate and / or isostearyl glyceryl ether in a total concentration of 20% to 80% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition, and one or more direct dyes selected from HC Red 18, HC Blue 18, and HC Yellow 16, and / or mixtures thereof comprising, wherein the weight ratio of compound a) to compound b) is in the range of 5:1 to 1:5, and the composition contains less than 40% by weight of water, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition, a cosmetic composition.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total concentration of the compound of a) is in the range of 1% to 50% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition contains less than 30% by weight of water.
4. A kit of parts for decolorizing and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, comprising - Composition A comprising one or more alkalizing agents and optionally one or more peracids and / or peroxides, and - Aqueous oxidation composition B, and - Composition C according to any one of claims 1 to 3 a kit of parts.
5. The kit of parts according to claim 4, wherein Composition A comprises one or more direct dyes for hair.
6. The kit of parts according to claim 4 or 5, wherein Composition A comprises one or more direct dyes for hair selected from HC Red 18, HC Blue 18, and HC Yellow 16, and / or mixtures thereof.
7. A method for decolorizing and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, comprising i) mixing Composition A according to any one of claims 4 to 6, Composition B according to any one of claims 4 to 6, and Composition C according to any one of claims 1 to 3 to produce an immediately usable composition having a pH in the range of 7 to 12, and ii) applying the immediately usable composition to the keratin fibers and leaving it for 1 minute to 60 minutes, and iii) rinsing the keratin fibers with water and optionally washing the keratin fibers with shampoo a method.
8. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 for stabilizing a direct dye in a decolorizing and / or lightening and / or dyeing process.
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