Two-phase cosmetic composition containing an amino acid and two specific acids

Abstract

The present invention relates to a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising an amino acid and two specific acids. The cosmetic composition comprises a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, and a weight ratio between the oily and aqueous phases of between 0.75 and 1.25, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least one amino acid and / or a salt thereof and / or a derivative thereof, citric acid and / or a salt thereof, and salicylic acid, and the weight ratio between the sum of the citric acid content by weight and the salicylic acid content by weight and the amino acid content by weight is between 0.90 and 1.10.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a two-phase composition comprising a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase, wherein the aqueous phase contains an amino acid and / or its salt and / or its derivative, citric acid and / or its salt, and salicylic acid. The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition, as well as a method for removing makeup using such a composition.

Background Art

[0002] Compositions consisting of two separated phases, particularly compositions consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are separated and not emulsified with each other in a static state, are generally referred to by the term "two-phase composition". They differ from emulsions in that, in a static state, the two phases are separated instead of being emulsified with each other. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior agitation to form an emulsion, and the emulsion needs to have sufficient quality and stability to enable homogeneous application of both phases onto the skin or keratinous substances to which it is applied. In a static state, the said phases must quickly separate from each other and return to their initial state, and this phenomenon is more generally known by the terms "phase separation" or "demixing".

[0003] Relatively rapid demixing of the two phases after their use is one of the desired qualities of two-phase compositions. In fact, the achievement of rapid phase separation is desirable for various reasons, particularly because poor separation of the two phases is perceived as unsightly by the user and because it may cause the product to become "three-phase" as it is used over time.

[0004] Two-phase compositions are particularly used to remove makeup from the face, especially from the eyes. Therefore, they must have good tolerance to the eyes.

[0005] However, the cosmetics market increasingly tends to focus on compositions that are natural, contain more environmentally friendly compounds, and / or are of biomass origin.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0006]

Patent Document 1

Patent Document 2

Non-Patent Documents

[0007]

Non-Patent Document 1

Non-Patent Document 2

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0008] As a result, there remains a need for a novel natural two-phase composition that consists of two separate immiscible phases and has both good demixing quality and good eye tolerance while still achieving effective makeup removal. A "natural composition" means a cosmetic composition mainly formulated with natural ingredients and / or ingredients of natural origin. "Natural ingredients" mean compounds that can be directly obtained from the ground or soil, or from plants or animals, by one or more physical methods, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification, or filtration, where appropriate. "Of natural origin" ingredients mean natural compounds that have been subjected to one or more chemical treatments, or related industrial processes, that do not cause harmful modifications to the essential qualities of the compound, and / or compounds mainly containing natural constituents, whether or not such conversions as shown above have been carried out.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0009] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that a combination in the aqueous phase of an amino acid and / or its salt and / or its derivative, citric acid and / or its salt, and salicylic acid and / or its derivative in a two-phase composition, wherein the mass ratio between the sum of the content by mass of citric acid and the content by mass of salicylic acid and the content by mass of the amino acid (i.e., the mass ratio of (citric acid + salicylic acid):amino acid) is between 0.90 and 1.10, enables the obtaining of a two-phase composition that meets these needs. The composition according to the invention particularly has good tolerance to the eyes and good demixing quality. The composition according to the invention is also extremely efficient for makeup removal. In addition, the composition according to the invention provides brightness and improves the quality of the keratinous substances of the eyes, particularly of the eyelashes.

[0010] In particular, the subject matter of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase, wherein the oily phase contains at least one oil and the mass ratio between the oily phase and the aqueous phase is between 0.75 and 1.25, and wherein the aqueous phase - contains at least one amino acid and / or its salt and / or its derivative, - contains citric acid and / or its salt, - and contains salicylic acid and wherein the mass ratio between the sum of the content by mass of citric acid and the content by mass of salicylic acid and the content by mass of the amino acid is between 0.90 and 1.10. This is a cosmetic composition. Such a composition according to the invention is thus a two-phase composition.

[0011] The subject matter of the present invention is also a method for removing and / or washing and / or caring for keratinous substances, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to keratinous substances, particularly to the keratinous substances of the eyes, preferably to the eyelashes.

[0012] ​The subject matter of the present invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention for the removal and / or washing and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular keratinous substances of the eye, preferably the eyelashes.

Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention

[0013] Oil phase The oil phase of the composition according to the invention contains at least one oil.

[0014] Preferably, the oil phase of the composition according to the invention contains at least one vegetable oil.

[0015] The oil of the oil phase is preferably selected from jojoba seed oil (INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil / Simmondsia chinensis seed oil), sweet almond oil (INCI name: Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet Almond) oil / Prunus dulcis), refined and deodorized Limnanthes alba oil (INCI name: Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) seed oil / Limnanthes alba seed oil), avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0016] The oil phase can also contain at least one volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular branched C15 - C19 alkanes, such as those commercially available under the name EMOGREEN L19 by Seppic.

[0017] In addition, the oil phase can contain fatty acid esters, preferably fatty acid esters of natural origin.

[0018] Examples of fatty acid esters include synthetic esters of fatty acids, such as those of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents the residue of a straight-chain or branched higher fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, particularly a branched hydrocarbon chain, and R1 + R2 > 10. Oils having such a structure include, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 - C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl elcate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl maleate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetrastearate.

[0019] Preferably, the fatty acid ester is selected from isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12 - C15 alkyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the fatty acid ester is isopropyl palmitate.

[0020] The oily phase can further contain conventional cosmetic additives, such as fragrances.

[0021] Aqueous phase The aqueous phase - at least one amino acid and / or its salt and / or its derivative, and - citric acid and / or its salt, and - Salicylic acid and / or its derivatives and comprising the mass ratio between the sum of the content by mass of citric acid and the content by mass of salicylic acid, and the content by mass of amino acid [i.e., (citric acid + salicylic acid): amino acid mass ratio] is between 0.90 and 1.10.

[0022] Preferably, the mass ratio between the sum of the content by mass of citric acid and the content by mass of salicylic acid, and the content by mass of amino acid is between 0.92 and 1.05, preferably between 0.95 and 1.02.

[0023] Such ratios make it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition having good tolerance to the eyes and at the same time good quality of demixing. The values of these ratios also confer satisfactory microbiological protection to the composition according to the invention.

[0024] Furthermore, the aqueous phase contains water.

[0025] The aqueous phase probably contains at least one organic solvent that is water-soluble or water-miscible.

[0026] Water-soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for the present invention include short-chain monoalcohols, such as C1-C4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvent is 1,3-propanediol.

[0027] Preferably, the aqueous phase contains at least 60% by mass of water, preferably at least 70% by mass, preferably between 80% by mass and 95% by mass of water, based on the total mass of the aqueous phase.

[0028] Amino acid The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention contains at least one amino acid and / or its salt and / or its derivative.

[0029] In the present invention, "amino acid derivative" means an amino acid having a substituent either in the carboxyl group of the amino acid or in the amino group carried by the alpha carbon of the carboxyl group, or perhaps in both of these groups.

[0030] Preferably, the amino acid is arginine or lysine, preferably arginine.

[0031] Lysine is preferably L-lysine.

[0032] Preferably, the amino acid in the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is arginine and / or its organic or mineral acid salt and / or its derivative.

[0033] The various forms of arginine are generally D-arginine, D,L-arginine and L-arginine. Examples of organic or mineral acid salts of arginine include hydrochloride, glutamate, butyrate and glycolate.

[0034] Examples of derivatives of L-arginine include C1-C4 alkyl esters of L-arginine, and the alkyl is selected from, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl.

[0035] Among the derivatives of L-arginine, oligomers of L-arginine (referred to as polyarginine), such as those described in application EP1060739 and application WO3003 / 072039, can also be mentioned. Preferred arginine oligomers according to the present invention contain 7-15 L-arginine patterns, such as 7, 9, 11, 13 or 15 L-arginine patterns. In particular, L-arginine will be used.

[0036] Preferably, the amino acid is present in an amount between 0.01% by weight and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% by weight and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.1% by weight and 2% by weight, and advantageously between 0.5% by weight and 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0037] The content of the amino acid can also be expressed relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the amino acid is present in an amount between 0.005% by weight and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.02% by weight and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% by weight and 1% by weight, and advantageously between 0.3% by weight and 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Citric acid The aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains citric acid and / or its salts.

[0039] Examples of citrate salts include salts of citric acid and salts of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals. Such salts are, in particular, potassium citrate or sodium citrate.

[0040] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains citric acid.

[0041] Preferably, citric acid is present in an amount between 0.01% by weight and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.05% by weight and 0.8% by weight, preferably between 0.1% by weight and 0.7% by weight, and advantageously between 0.3% by weight and 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0042] The content of citric acid can also be expressed relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, citric acid is present in an amount between 0.005% by weight and 0.5% by weight, preferably between 0.02% by weight and 0.4% by weight, preferably between 0.05% by weight and 0.35% by weight, and advantageously between 0.15% by weight and 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Salicylic acid The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention contains salicylic acid.

[0044] Preferably, salicylic acid is present in a content between 0.01% by mass and 1% by mass, preferably between 0.05% by mass and 0.5% by mass, preferably between 0.05% by mass and 0.4% by mass, and advantageously between 0.1% by mass and 0.3% by mass, based on the total mass of the aqueous phase.

[0045] The content of salicylic acid can also be expressed relative to the total mass of the composition. Preferably, salicylic acid is present in a content between 0.005% by mass and 0.5% by mass, preferably between 0.02% by mass and 0.25% by mass, preferably between 0.02% by mass and 0.2% by mass, and advantageously between 0.05% by mass and 0.15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0046] Compound according to formula (I) The cosmetic composition according to the invention has the formula (I):

Chem.

[0047] Preferably, the compound of formula (I) is selected from madecassoside, terminoloside, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Preferably, the compound of formula (I) is a mixture of madecassoside and terminoloside, containing a madecassoside content in the range of 30% to 70% by mass, particularly in the range of 45% to 55% by mass, based on the total mass of the mixture.

[0049] Preferably, the Centella asiatica extract contains, relative to the mass of the extract, more than 95% by mass of a mixture of madecassoside and terminoloside.

[0050] Preferably, the compound according to formula (I) is present in a content between 0.001% by mass and 0.5% by mass, preferably between 0.005% by mass and 0.1% by mass, preferably between 0.01% by mass and 0.05% by mass, and advantageously between 0.02% by mass and 0.04% by mass, relative to the total mass of the aqueous phase.

[0051] The content of the compound according to formula (I) can also be expressed relative to the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the compound according to formula (I) is present in a content between 0.0005% by mass and 0.25% by mass, preferably between 0.002% by mass and 0.05% by mass, preferably between 0.005% by mass and 0.02% by mass, and advantageously between 0.01% by mass and 0.02% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0052] Cosmetic composition The cosmetic composition according to the invention consists of a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase.

[0053] Preferably, the mass ratio between the oily phase and the aqueous phase is between 0.75 and 1.25, preferably between 0.78 and 1.22, preferably between 0.80 and 1.10, preferably between 0.81 and 1.

[0054] These ratio values make it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition that is excellent in makeup removal and also has a satisfactory visual appearance.

[0055] Preferably, the aqueous phase has a pH between 3.8 and 4.4, preferably between 3.9 and 4.3, and advantageously between 4.0 and 4.2.

[0056] Preferably, the aqueous phase is substantially free of monovalent inorganic salts and / or divalent inorganic salts, preferably completely free of monovalent inorganic salts and divalent inorganic salts.

[0057] "Substantially free of" means that the composition contains less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight of monovalent inorganic salts and / or divalent inorganic salts, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of monovalent inorganic salts and completely free of divalent inorganic salts.

[0058] A monovalent inorganic salt means a salt that does not contain any C-H bonds and consists of a cation and an anion, each carrying a single positive or negative charge. For example, NaCl is a monovalent salt.

[0059] A divalent inorganic salt means a salt that does not contain any C-H bonds and consists of a cation and an anion, each carrying two positive or negative charges. For example, MgSO4 is a divalent salt.

[0060] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is substantially free of surfactants. "Substantially free of" means that the composition contains less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of surfactants, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of surfactants.

[0061] The expressions "from... to...", "in the range of... to...", and "vary from... to..." are to be understood as including the limiting values, unless otherwise specified.

[0062] Specific but non-limiting examples illustrating the present invention will now be provided.

[0063] Unless otherwise stated, the pressure in the examples is atmospheric pressure.

Examples

[0064] In all examples, the composition is prepared from the components listed in the following table according to the following protocol: The oily phase is prepared by mixing the components of the oily phase. The hydrolate is mixed with arginine in water, and then salicylic acid pre-dispersed in propanediol is added, then madecassoside is added, and finally the pH is adjusted with citric acid. The aqueous phase is thus obtained. Finally, the oily phase is brought into contact with the aqueous phase to obtain the composition.

[0065] In the examples, the eye tolerance of the composition was evaluated.

[0066] In vivo tests were conducted for this purpose. These are usage tests by consumers (at least 60 consumers) consisting of a 15-day makeup removal routine. The consumers themselves, as well as dermatologists and ophthalmologists (toxicology experts), conduct observations at the start and end of the test.

[0067] In this study, the evaluation of the eye tolerance of various compositions is indicated by the result of "OK" or "not OK" depending on whether the tolerance is acceptable or not.

[0068] Demixing test protocol: Demixing is examined after repeated mixing. Demixing of the two-phase composition is essential at T24H after mixing, - Over the bottle, at room temperature after 10 examples of front and back tipping, and after 4 consecutive days of 10 examples of front and back tipping over 1 day, - Over the bottle, at 45 °C after 2 months after 10 examples of front and back tipping, and after 4 consecutive days of 10 examples of front and back tipping over 1 day, - After 10 days of a -20 + 20 °C cycle, and after 10 examples of front and back tipping over the bottle, and after 4 consecutive days of 10 examples of front and back tipping over 1 day, Satisfaction must be achieved.

[0069] Microbiological test protocol: This is a test detailed in ISO standards 11930:2019 and 29621:2017.

[0070] (Example 1) Composition C1 according to the present invention and comparative composition C2 * , C3 * and C4 * Preparation of Composition C1 according to the present invention, as well as comparative composition C2 * , C3 * and C4 * are prepared according to the protocol described above with the components listed in the following table. The amount of each component is expressed as a mass ratio relative to the total mass of the phase (aqueous phase and oily phase) containing it, not relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0071]

Table 1A

Table 1B

[0072] Among these four compositions, only composition C1 according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a composition that simultaneously exhibits satisfactory demixing, eye tolerance, and microbiological defense.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase, wherein the oily phase contains at least one oil, the mass ratio between the oily phase and the aqueous phase is between 0.75 and 1.25, and the aqueous phase contains - at least one amino acid and / or its salt and / or its derivative, - citric acid and / or its salt, and - salicylic acid and the mass ratio between the sum of the contents by mass of citric acid and salicylic acid and the content by mass of the amino acid is between 0.90 and 1.10, the amino acid derivative is an amino acid having a substitution in either the carboxyl group of the amino acid or the amino group carried by the alpha carbon of the carboxyl group, or perhaps in both of these groups, the amino acid is arginine or lysine characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amino acid is arginine and / or its organic or mineral acid salt and / or its derivative.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the amino acid is present in a content between 0.01% by mass and 5% by mass based on the total mass of the aqueous phase.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the citric acid is present in a content between 0.01% by mass and 1% by mass based on the total mass of the aqueous phase.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the salicylic acid is present in a content between 0.01% by mass and 1% by mass based on the total mass of the aqueous phase.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one compound according to the following formula (I): or an extract of Centella asiatica containing a compound according to formula (I) or a mixture of compounds according to formula (I). 【Chemical 1】 (wherein, R 1 = H or -CH 3 ; R 2 = H or -CH 3 ; R 3 = -CH 3 and R 1 and R 2 are not simultaneously H)

7. The composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) is selected from madecassoside, terminoloside, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the compound according to formula (I) is present in a content between 0.001% by mass and 0.5% by mass based on the total mass of the aqueous phase.

9. ​ The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the aqueous phase has a pH between 3.8 and 4.

4.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the aqueous phase is substantially free of monovalent and / or divalent inorganic salts.

11. A method for removing and / or washing and / or caring for makeup on a keratinous substance, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 onto the keratinous substance, in particular the keratinous substance of the eye.

12. Use of one of the compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for removing and / or washing and / or caring for makeup on a keratinous substance, in particular the keratinous substance of the eye.

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