Woven and knitted fabrics and their manufacturing method

Abstract

To provide a woven / knitted fabric which gives soft and puffy feeling and is excellent in skin separability, and to provide a manufacturing method thereof.SOLUTION: There is provided a woven / knitted fabric containing a crimped bimetal composite yarn, in which an arithmetic average roughness Sa of the surface of the woven / knitted fabric is in the range of 5 μm or more and 100 μm or less, preferably the single yarn fineness of the bimetal composite yarn is in the range of 0.01 dtex or more and 0.4 dtex or less, and the bimetal composite yarn is made of polyester.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having a soft, fluffy texture and excellent skin-releasing properties, and a method for producing the same. [Background technology]

[0002] Conventionally, woven and knitted fabrics using sea-island split yarns have been used to impart a supple and soft texture compared to ordinary woven and knitted fabrics (see Patent Document 1). By removing the sea component through dyeing processing, fine island component filaments are revealed, resulting in very supple and soft woven and knitted fabrics. However, the fluffiness is insufficient for clothing use, and in practice, the fabric has been limited to non-clothing applications such as wiping cloths.

[0003] Furthermore, in order to obtain a fluffy feel, a woven or knitted fabric using a blended yarn of a sea-island split yarn and a high shrinkage yarn has also been proposed (see Patent Document 2). This method uses a high shrinkage yarn and creates a difference in yarn length, which can impart a fluffy feel to the woven or knitted fabric, but the use of a high shrinkage yarn inevitably results in a stiff feel in bending, and in practice this method has been limited to applications in thick suede.

[0004] On the other hand, woven and knitted fabrics using bimetal composite yarns for the island component have also been proposed (see Patent Document 3). This method allows the bimetallic crimp of the island component to be expressed after sea-removal, resulting in a soft and fluffy woven and knitted fabric. However, the ultrafine crimps are expressed in the gaps at the intersection points of the woven and knitted fabrics, making the surface of the woven and knitted fabric flat, which inevitably results in a sticky texture when in contact with the skin, and in practice this has limited its use to down.

[0005] As described above, although sea-island split yarn can impart a soft and supple texture to woven and knitted fabrics, it lacks volume and breathability to be widely used in general clothing. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0006] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 4-236931 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2016-180189 [Patent Document 3] Patent Publication No. 2020-105647 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0007] An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric that has a soft, fluffy feel and excellent skin-releasing properties. [Means for solving the problem]

[0008] In order to solve the above problems, the present invention has the following configuration.

[0009] That is, the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric containing a crimped bimetal composite yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 dtex or less, and the arithmetic mean roughness Sa of the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is 5 μm or more and 100 μm or less. In a preferred embodiment, the single yarn fineness is 0.01 dtex or more and 0.4 dtex or less. The bimetallic composite yarn is preferably made of polyester. The present invention also provides a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, which comprises weaving a woven or knitted fabric using an islands-in-sea split yarn in which the island components are bimetal composite yarns, dissolving the sea component of the woven or knitted fabric to induce crimping in the bimetal composite yarns, and then water jet punching the resulting fabric. [Effects of the Invention]

[0010] According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain woven and knitted fabrics that have a soft, fluffy texture and excellent skin-releasing properties that have not been previously obtainable. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a soft and fluffy texture by using a bimetal composite yarn in which the sea component of a woven or knitted fabric containing islands-in-sea split yarns in which the island components are bimetal composite yarns is dissolved and crimped.When the island components are not bimetal composite yarns, crimp cannot be sufficiently expressed and therefore a fluffy texture cannot be obtained.

[0012] In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention before sea-removal, it is preferable to use islands-in-sea type splitting yarns in a mixing ratio of 30% by mass or more of the total warp and weft yarns. It is also preferable to use islands-in-sea type splitting yarns in some of the warp and weft yarns, and it is further preferable to use islands-in-sea type splitting yarns in all of the warp and weft yarns.

[0013] After extensive research into imparting skin-releasing properties to woven and knitted fabrics from which the sea portion has been removed using islands-in-sea split yarns, we discovered that it is important to change the surface shape of the woven and knitted fabric to achieve an arithmetic mean roughness (Sa), an index of surface roughness, of 5 μm or more and 100 μm or less. By ensuring that the arithmetic mean roughness (Sa) is 5 to 100 μm, contact between the bimetal crimped yarn and the skin can be reduced, resulting in woven and knitted fabrics with excellent skin-releasing properties despite their fine single yarn size. If Sa is less than 5 μm, the fabric will have a sticky texture. On the other hand, if Sa exceeds 100 μm, the surface will be too uneven, resulting in a rough texture. A more preferable range for Sa is 10 μm or more and 50 μm or less.

[0014] In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the single filament fineness of the bimetal composite yarn is 0.5 dtex or less, which makes it possible to make the woven or knitted fabric soft and to easily change the surface shape of the fabric. If the single filament fineness of the bimetal composite yarn exceeds 0.5 dtex, the woven or knitted fabric whose surface shape has been changed will have a hard and rough texture. A more preferred single filament fineness is 0.01 dtex or more and 0.4 dtex or less.

[0015] In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the total fineness of the bimetal composite yarn is preferably 20 to 250 dtex, which provides both a fluffy feel and a soft feel.

[0016] In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the bimetal composite yarn may be, for example, a polyester or polyamide composite yarn, but polyester bimetal composite yarn is preferred because of its superior fluffy feel. Furthermore, bimetal composite yarn in which one component is polytrimethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate and the other component is polyethylene terephthalate is even more preferred because it results in a finer crimp morphology and is easier to change the surface shape of the woven or knitted fabric.

[0017] The cross section of the bimetal composite yarn can be arbitrarily selected from round, triangular, flat, hexagonal, L-shaped, C-shaped, T-shaped, W-shaped, eight-lobe shaped, dogbone shaped, hollow shaped, eccentric core-sheath shaped, etc.

[0018] Furthermore, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention may be subjected to various additional treatments, such as conventional water absorption treatment, water repellency treatment, ultraviolet shielding treatment, or treatments that impart functions such as antibacterial agents, antiviral agents, deodorizers, insect repellents, and retroreflective agents, within the scope of the present invention.

[0019] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be obtained by weaving a woven or knitted fabric using an islands-in-sea type split yarn in which the island components are bimetal composite yarns, and then dissolving the sea component of the islands-in-sea type composite yarn at the woven or knitted fabric stage (hereinafter sometimes referred to as sea component removal).

[0020] The mass ratio of the two components of the bimetal composite yarn is preferably 3:7 to 7:3 in order to fully develop crimp, and more preferably 4:6 to 6:4.

[0021] When the island components of the sea-island split yarn are polyesters, the sea component is preferably a polyester having a sea-removal treatment speed (alkali weight reduction speed) at least 5 times faster than either of the two island component polyesters. More preferably, it is a polyester having a sea-removal treatment speed at least 8 times faster, and even more preferably, it is a polyester having a sea-removal treatment speed at least 10 times faster than either of the two island component polyesters. By making the alkali weight reduction speed ratio at least 5 times faster than either of the two island component polyesters, incomplete sea-removal (a state in which the sea component is not completely dissolved and the island parts are fused together) in the sea-removal treatment can be easily avoided, and an excellent woven or knitted fabric with few defects such as dye spots and raised spots can be easily obtained.

[0022] Specifically, the two island component polyesters may be any known polyesters. Examples include aliphatic polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), and polylactic acid. These polyesters may also contain copolymerizable components capable of forming other ester bonds, with the diol and acid components each comprising 20 mol % or less, more preferably 10 mol % or less. Examples of copolymerizable compounds include dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid, and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, and diols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, polyethylene glycol, and polypropylene glycol. These polyesters may contain additives such as matting agents, flame retardants, antistatic agents, and pigments.

[0023] The sea component polyester forms the fiber surface of the islands-in-sea splitting yarn, and therefore must be strong enough to maintain stable processability. However, if the copolymerization amounts of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and polyethylene glycol are too high, the raw yarn strength will decrease. Therefore, the copolymerization amount of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is preferably 1.5 mol % to 10 mol %, and the copolymerization amount of polyethylene glycol is preferably 2 mass % to 15 mass %. Furthermore, the copolymerization amount of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is more preferably 2 mol % to 8 mol %, and the copolymerization amount of polyethylene glycol is more preferably 4 mass % to 12 mass %.

[0024] The mass ratio of sea component to island component in the islands-in-sea split yarn is preferably 10 / 90 to 50 / 50 from the viewpoints of composite morphology stability, spinnability, and productivity. If the mass ratio of the sea component is too low, composite abnormalities occur, resulting in poor splitting, or even if the dispersion morphology is normal, poor splitting is likely to occur due to poor dissolution of the sea component. Conversely, if the mass ratio of the sea component exceeds 50%, productivity decreases. The mass ratio of sea component to island component is more preferably 20 / 80 to 30 / 70.

[0025] When spinning the islands-in-sea splitting yarn described above, any process can be used, such as a method in which spinning and drawing steps are carried out continuously, or a method in which the yarn is once wound as an undrawn yarn and then drawn. The islands-in-sea splitting yarn produced in this manner can be made into a woven or knitted fabric using a known weaving or knitting method. Any known weave can be used as the weave or knitting structure, but methods in which ribs are formed by weaving or knitting the bimetal composite yarn may make it difficult to obtain a fluffy feel due to crimping of the bimetal composite yarn. Preferably, the woven fabric has a relatively plain weave such as plain, twill, matte, or satin, and the knitted fabric has a relatively plain weave such as jersey, smooth, half, denbigh, satin, or atlas, and the surface shape of the woven or knitted fabric is changed after sea-removal to impart surface roughness to the woven or knitted fabric.

[0026] The loom used for weaving is not particularly limited and may be a commonly used normal loom, a rapier, a water jet loom, an air jet loom, etc. Among these, an air jet loom, which does not apply excessive tension to the weft yarn, is preferred.

[0027] The knitting machine used for knitting the fabric is not particularly limited and may be a circular knitting machine, a tricot machine, a Russell machine, a weft knitting machine, or the like.

[0028] The woven or knitted fabric is subjected to a sea-removal process to remove the sea component from the islands-in-sea split yarn, thereby developing crimps in the bimetal composite yarn of the island component. Even if crimps are developed in the bimetal composite yarn during the sea-removal process, a heat treatment process to develop crimps may be performed after the sea-removal process. The sea-removal process preferably involves subjecting the woven or knitted fabric to alkali reduction. The reduction process is preferably a process to the extent that the sea component is completely removed. For example, the woven or knitted fabric is immersed in an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH: 0.1 to 10 g / L) at 30 to 100°C. While known methods and devices can be basically used for alkali reduction, a sea-removal method using a jet dyeing machine is preferred because it allows uniform sea-removal from the fiber surface.

[0029] Furthermore, even if crimping occurs in the bimetal composite yarn due to sea-removal, in order to impart stronger crimping, it is also a preferred embodiment to subject the yarn to heat treatment after the sea-removal treatment. Specifically, stronger crimping can be imparted by subjecting the yarn to relaxation treatment at 120°C or higher using a jet dyeing machine.

[0030] The woven or knitted fabric is then subjected to water jet punching to change the surface shape of the fabric and to give it a surface with an arithmetic mean roughness Sa of 5 to 100 μm. By adjusting the water pressure in the water jet punching, the crimp of the bimetal composite yarn is disturbed and entangled, and the surface roughness of the present invention, which provides good skin release properties, can be imparted. The preferred water pressure is 50 to 150 kg / cm. 2 is.

[0031] The dyeing process can be carried out in accordance with the dyeing process and conditions for general woven and knitted fabrics.

[0032] As described above, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a soft, fluffy texture and excellent skin-releasing properties due to the change in the surface shape of the woven or knitted fabric after sea-removal. The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be widely used for, for example, pants, coats, jackets, shirts, skirts, etc., and is particularly suitable for use as a substitute for leather. [Example]

[0033] The present invention will be explained in more detail below with reference to examples. 1.Arithmetic mean roughness Sa Measurement was carried out in accordance with ISO 25178 under the following conditions. Sample size: 10cm x 10cm (fixed to the stage without weight) Equipment: Keyence VR-3200 Measurement area: 18mm x 24mm Correction: Waviness removal (correction strength = 5) Definition query Filter type: Gaussian S-filter: None F-Operation: None L-filter: None N number: 10 points are measured and the average value is the arithmetic mean height. 2. Soft feel In a sensory evaluation, the woven or knitted fabric was stroked with the thumb, index finger, and middle finger, and the fabric was rated on a four-point scale: very soft, very soft, slightly not soft enough, or not soft enough and rough to the touch. The result was determined to be closest to the average of the ratings of 10 randomly selected people. 3. Feeling full In a sensory evaluation in which the woven or knitted fabric was stroked with the thumb, index finger, and middle finger, the fabric was rated on a four-point scale: very good fullness, good fullness, slightly lacking fullness, and lacking fullness and having a paper-like texture. The result was determined to be closest to the average of the ratings of 10 randomly selected people. 4. Easy to remove from the skin In a sensory evaluation in which the woven or knitted fabric was slid over the arm, the fabric was rated on a four-point scale: very good release, good release, slightly insufficient release, and insufficient release and sticky texture. The result was determined to be closest to the average of the ratings of 10 randomly selected people.

[0034] Example 1 Two island component polymers, PBT (island 1) and PET (island 2), and a sea component polymer, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 10% by mass of polyethylene glycol, were melted separately and poured into a 24-island spinneret to form a side-by-side island-sea composite morphology. The mass ratio of sea / island 1 / island 2 was 20 / 40 / 40. The yarn was wound at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min to obtain a 70 dtex-12 filament island-sea composite yarn with 24 islands.

[0035] This yarn was used for the warp and weft, and woven in a plain weave using an air jet loom at a greige density (warp: 170 threads / 2.54 cm, weft: 130 threads / 2.54 cm).

[0036] Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to continuous open-spread scouring at 98°C, and then immersed in a 1% by mass aqueous solution of caustic soda at 90°C for sea-removal processing, thereby inducing crimping in the polyester filaments constituting the woven fabric. The islands-in-sea composite yarn was 56 dtex - 288 filaments (single yarn fineness: 0.19 dtex). After that, it was subjected to a relaxation treatment at 130°C, an intermediate set at 180°C, and a strain of 100 kg / cm. 2 After water jet punching at a pressure of 1000 kJ / min, the fabric was dyed at 130°C and finished at 160°C to obtain a woven fabric.

[0037] The resulting fabric had a processing density of 240 warp threads / 2.54 cm and 170 weft threads / 2.54 cm, and an arithmetic mean roughness Sa of 22 μm. The fabric also had excellent softness, fluffiness, and skin-relaxing properties. <Example 2> In Example 1, 60 kg / cm 2A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as above, except that the water jet punching was carried out at a pressure of 1000 kJ / min.

[0038] The resulting woven fabric had a processing density (warp: 238 threads / 2.54 cm, weft: 166 threads / 2.54 cm) and an arithmetic mean roughness Sa of 9 μm. The woven fabric also had excellent softness, fluffiness, and skin-relaxing properties. Example 3 An islands-in-sea composite yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, and a 46-gauge jersey was knitted using a single circular knitting machine.

[0039] Next, the obtained knitted fabric was subjected to continuous open-spread scouring at 98°C, and then immersed in a 1% by mass aqueous solution of caustic soda at 90°C for sea-removal processing, thereby inducing crimping in the polyester filaments constituting the knitted fabric. The islands-in-sea composite yarn was 56 dtex - 288 filaments (single yarn fineness: 0.19 dtex). It was then subjected to a relaxation treatment at 130°C, an intermediate set at 180°C, and a sieving treatment at 130 kg / cm. 2 After water jet punching at a pressure of 1000 kJ / min, the fabric was dyed at 130°C and finished at 160°C to obtain a knitted fabric.

[0040] The resulting knitted fabric had a processing density (well: 85 threads / 2.54 cm, course: 49 threads / 2.54 cm) and an arithmetic mean roughness Sa of 88 μm. The knitted fabric also had excellent softness, fluffiness, and excellent skin-releasing properties. <Comparative Example 1> 100kg / cm 2 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except for the step of performing water jet punching at a pressure of 1000 kJ / min.

[0041] The resulting woven fabric had a processing density (warp: 232 threads / 2.54 cm, weft: 162 threads / 2.54 cm) and an arithmetic mean roughness Sa of 1 μm. Although the fabric had excellent softness and fluffy feel, it lacked skin-releasing properties and had a sticky texture.

[0042] <Comparative Example 2> Two types of polymers, PBT (island 1 component) and PET (island 2 component), were melted separately and poured into a 72-island spinneret to form a side-by-side composite. The mass ratio of island 1 / island 2 components was 50 / 50. The spinning was performed at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min, yielding 56 dtex-72 filaments (single yarn fineness: 0.78 dtex).

[0043] This yarn was used for the warp and weft, and woven in a plain weave using an air jet loom at a greige density (warp: 170 threads / 2.54 cm, weft: 130 threads / 2.54 cm).

[0044] Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to continuous open scouring at 98°C, followed by liquid flow relaxation at 130°C, intermediate setting at 180°C, and scouring at 100 kg / cm 2 After water jet punching at a pressure of 1000 kJ / min, the fabric was dyed at 130°C and finished at 160°C to obtain a woven fabric.

[0045] The resulting woven fabric had a processing density (warp: 234 threads / 2.54 cm, weft: 164 threads / 2.54 cm) and an arithmetic mean roughness Sa of 3 μm. Although the fabric had excellent volume, it lacked softness and had a rough texture, and its release properties were somewhat lacking.

[0046] <Comparative Example 3> PET was used as the island component polymer, and polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 10% by mass of polyethylene glycol was used as the sea component polymer. These were melted separately and poured into a 24-island spinneret. The mass ratio of sea / island components was 20 / 80. The yarn was taken up at a spinning speed of 3,000 m / min to obtain a sea-island yarn with 24 islands and 70 dtex-12 filaments.

[0047] This yarn was used for the warp and weft, and woven in a plain weave using an air jet loom at a greige density (warp: 170 threads / 2.54 cm, weft: 130 threads / 2.54 cm).

[0048] Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to continuous open scour at 98°C, and then immersed in a 1% by mass aqueous solution of caustic soda at 90°C for sea-removal processing, resulting in a sea-island yarn of 56 dtex-288 filaments (single yarn fineness: 0.19 dtex). 2 After water jet punching at a pressure of 1000 kJ / min, the fabric was dyed at 130°C and finished at 160°C to obtain a woven fabric.

[0049] The resulting woven fabric had a processing density (warp: 202 threads / 2.54 cm, weft: 151 threads / 2.54 cm) and an arithmetic mean roughness Sa of 32 μm. Although it had excellent softness and skin-releasing properties, it lacked volume and had a paper-like texture. <Comparative Example 4> Two island component polymers, PBT (island 1) and PET (island 2), and a sea component polymer, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 10% by mass of polyethylene glycol, were melted separately and poured into a 24-island spinneret to form a side-by-side island-sea composite morphology. The mass ratio of sea / island 1 / island 2 was 20 / 40 / 40. The yarns were then wound at a spinning speed of 3,000 m / min to obtain a 70 dtex-12 filament 24-island composite yarn and a 250 dtex-48 filament 24-island composite yarn.

[0050] Further, under the same conditions as in Comparative Example 2, 56 dtex-72 filaments (single yarn fineness: 0.77 dtex) were obtained. The above two types of yarns were used alternately for the warp and weft, and the fabric was woven in a mat weave using an air jet loom at a greige density (warp: 170 threads / 2.54 cm, weft: 130 threads / 2.54 cm).

[0051] The resulting woven fabric was then subjected to continuous open-spread scouring at 98°C, followed by a sea-removal process by immersing it in a 1% by mass aqueous solution of caustic soda at 90°C, thereby inducing crimping in the polyester filaments constituting the woven fabric. The resulting islands-in-sea composite yarn had a diameter of 56 dtex and 288 filaments (single yarn fineness: 0.19 dtex). The yarn was then subjected to intermediate setting at 180°C, dyeing at 130°C, and finishing setting at 160°C to produce a finished product.

[0052] The resulting woven fabric had a processing density (warp: 222 threads / 2.54 cm, weft: 153 threads / 2.54 cm) and an arithmetic mean height Sa of 168 μm. It also had excellent skin-releasing properties, but was somewhat lacking in volume and softness, resulting in a rough texture.

Claims

1. A woven or knitted fabric comprising a crimped bimetal composite yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 dtex or less, the arithmetic mean roughness Sa of the surface of the woven or knitted fabric being 5 μm or more and 100 μm or less, and the woven or knitted fabric having a weave selected from the group consisting of plain, twill, matte, satin, jersey, smooth, half, denbigh, satin, and atlas.

2. 2. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the single yarn fineness is 0.01 dtex or more and 0.4 dtex or less.

3. 3. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the bimetal composite yarn is made of polyester.

4. A woven or knitted fabric as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein the woven or knitted fabric is obtained by applying water jet punching processing.

5. 3. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein a woven or knitted fabric is produced using an islands-in-sea split yarn in which the island component yarn is a bimetal composite yarn, and then the sea component of the woven or knitted fabric is dissolved to induce crimping in the bimetal composite yarn, followed by water jet punching.

6. 6. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the bimetal composite yarn is made of polyester.