Hair treatment method

A copolymer-based hair treatment method with a polysiloxane and polyoxyalkylene structure, combined with rinsing and heating, addresses the issue of short-lasting effects and stiff hair, providing durable water-repellency and smoothness.

JP7732736B2Active Publication Date: 2025-09-02SHISEIDO CO LTD
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2018233519
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2018-12-13
Publication Date
2025-09-02
Estimated Expiration
2038-12-13

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair treatment methods using polymers and silicones fail to provide long-lasting effects due to easy wash-off and insufficient usability, often resulting in stiff and sticky hair.

Method used

A hair treatment method involving a copolymer with a polysiloxane and polyoxyalkylene structure, trialkoxysilane or silanol groups, combined with a rinsing and heating process, to achieve durable water-repellency and smoothness.

Benefits of technology

The method imparts hydrophobic properties, improves hair manageability, and enhances resistance to heat, chemicals, and pollutants, with effects lasting for a long time.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

To provide a hair treatment method which can apply a suitable amount of a component having a hair treatment effect uniformly to hair, restores hydrophobicity, combability, and smoothness of the damaged hair by appropriate heat treatment and has excellent effect sustainability capable of maintaining the effect for a long period.SOLUTION: There is provided a hair treatment method which comprises: (1) a step of applying a hair treatment agent containing a copolymer containing a polysiloxane structure and a polyoxyalkylene structure in a main chain and having a side chain having a trialkoxysilane group or a silanol group to hair; (2) a step of heat-treating the hair at 40 to 230°C; and (3) a step of washing the hair.SELECTED DRAWING: None
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a hair treatment method, and more particularly to a hair treatment method that can make hair smooth and easy to comb, impart water repellency, etc., and maintain these effects for a long period of time. [Background technology]

[0002] Various hair care ingredients such as silicones are blended into hair washing cosmetics such as shampoos and conditioners, and hair finishing cosmetics such as hair styling agents and hair treatments. These hair care ingredients are adsorbed to and repair damaged areas of the hair, and coat the hair to improve combability.

[0003] The above-mentioned hair treatment methods for hair treatment are required to have long-lasting effects, particularly when carried out in hair salons and the like.

[0004] However, while polymers that have been incorporated into conventional hair cosmetics as hair care ingredients can restore combability immediately after use, they are easily washed away when washing the hair, and many of them are insufficient in terms of long-lasting effects or feel when used.

[0005] Patent Document 1 discloses a hair cosmetic containing a cationic polymer emulsion obtained by emulsion polymerization of a vinyl monomer having a reactive alkoxysilane group, a lipophilic vinyl monomer having an alkyl group, and an acrylic acid-based hydrophilic monomer with a cationic emulsifier. This cationic polymer is said to form a strong film by hydrolyzing the alkoxysilane group to form a silanol group, which undergoes a dehydration condensation reaction to form a crosslinked structure. However, the main chain of this polymer is a vinyl polymer with a polyvinyl structure, which has a strong resinous feel and makes hair feel stiff and stiff, resulting in insufficient usability.

[0006] Patent Document 2 describes a hair treatment method using a composition containing a silicone polymer having an alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl group at the end. The silicone polymer used here is said to maintain hair shape for a long time and exhibit good cosmetic properties. When using a treatment agent containing an alkoxysilane component, uneven or excessive adhesion to the hair can sometimes deteriorate usability. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0007] [Patent Document 1] Patent No. 4805482 [Patent Document 2] Special Publication No. 2016-525534 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] Therefore, the object of the present invention is to provide a hair treatment method that can uniformly and appropriately apply a component having a hair treatment effect to hair, restore the hydrophobicity, combability, and smoothness of damaged hair by appropriate heat treatment, and maintain the effect for a long period of time, thereby providing an excellent lasting effect. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] The present inventors have discovered that by using a hair treatment agent containing a predetermined amount of a copolymer which contains a polysiloxane structure and a polyoxyalkylene structure in its main chain and has a side chain containing a trialkoxysilane group or a silanol group, and by providing a rinsing step and a heating step at appropriate times, it is possible to achieve hair treatment which has excellent durability, a high water-repellent effect, and smooth usability, and have completed the present invention.

[0010] That is, the present invention is (1) applying to hair a hair treatment agent containing a copolymer having a polysiloxane structure and a polyoxyalkylene structure in its main chain and having a side chain having a trialkoxysilane group or a silanol group; (2) heat-treating the hair at 40°C to 230°C; and (3) A hair treatment method characterized by including a step of rinsing the hair. [Effects of the Invention]

[0011] The hair treatment method of the present invention uses a hair treatment agent containing a copolymer of a specific structure at a predetermined concentration, and includes a step of rinsing the hair before or after heating, thereby preventing excess hair treatment ingredients from remaining on the hair surface. Furthermore, the effects of the hair treatment of the present invention are highly sustained. By incorporating the hair treatment method of the present invention into a chemical treatment step such as permanent waving, straightening, dyeing, or bleaching, or before the step of applying the hair treatment agent, hair damaged by the chemical treatment can be instantly repaired, restoring smoothness, etc. Furthermore, the copolymer of the specific structure used in the present invention imparts hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties to the hair surface, makes the hair quick-drying and smooth to the touch, makes the hair easier to manage, and improves heat resistance, chemical resistance, and resistance to pollutants (such as pollen), with these effects lasting for a long time. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] The hair treatment method of the present invention comprises (1) a step of applying a hair treatment agent, (2) a heat treatment step, and (3) a step of rinsing. Each step will be described in detail below.

[0013] (1) Step of applying a hair treatment agent In the hair treatment method according to the present invention, first, the hair treatment agent is applied to the hair. The hair treatment agent used in the present invention contains a copolymer (hereinafter abbreviated as "crosslinked silicone POA copolymer") that contains a polysiloxane structure and a polyoxyalkylene structure in the main chain and has side chains containing trialkoxysilane groups or silanol groups.

[0014] The crosslinked silicone POA copolymer has excellent adhesion to hair due to the hydrophilicity of the polyoxyalkylene structure present in the main chain, the polysiloxane structure present in the main chain imparts hydrophobicity (water repellency) to the hair surface, and the alkoxysilane or silanol groups present in the side chain crosslink at relatively low temperatures to strengthen the film, resulting in excellent durability of the effect.

[0015] The polysiloxane structure constituting the main chain of the crosslinked silicone POA copolymer is made of polydialkylsiloxane, preferably polydimethylsiloxane, and some of the alkyl groups (preferably methyl groups) may be substituted with phenyl groups.

[0016] The polyoxyalkylene structure constituting the main chain of the crosslinked silicone POA copolymer of the present invention preferably contains at least one repeating unit selected from the group consisting of an oxyethylene group (EO), an oxypropylene group (PO), and an oxybutylene group (BO).

[0017] The crosslinked silicone POA copolymer of the present invention preferably further has a side chain consisting of an organic group. Examples of the organic group that forms the side chain include a hydrocarbon group (preferably an alkyl group, for example, a linear or branched alkyl group having about 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or a phenyl group) that may be optionally substituted with an amino group, a hydroxyl group, a carboxyl group, etc. The hydrocarbon group preferably has an amino group, and the hydrogen atom of the amino group may be further substituted with an alkyl group, etc.

[0018] The crosslinked silicone POA copolymer of the present invention preferably further comprises a nitrogen atom in its backbone, and the side chains are preferably bonded to the nitrogen atom.

[0019] A more specific example of a crosslinked silicone POA copolymer is Polysilicone-29 (INCI name), which is defined as a composite silicone compound obtained by reacting a dimethylsiloxane polymer having a glycidylpropyl group at the end with PEG-13 diglycidyl ether, diethylaminopropylamine, and aminopropyltriisopropoxysilane.

[0020] Commercially available crosslinked silicone POA copolymers may be used in the present invention. For example, the copolymer contained in a hair conditioner sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the trade name "Silsoft CLX-E" is particularly preferred. This copolymer is a compound belonging to the "Polysilicone-29" family. This copolymer contains a polysiloxane structure, a polyoxyalkylene structure, and nitrogen atoms in its main chain, and has side chains containing trialkoxysilane groups and side chains consisting of organic groups. The polysiloxane structure is polydimethylsiloxane, the polyoxyalkylene structure contains polyoxyethylene and polyoxyisopropylene, and the side chains are bonded to the nitrogen atoms of the main chain. "Silsoft CLX-E" is a commercial product containing the copolymer, dipropylene glycol, and water.

[0021] The amount of crosslinked silicone POA copolymer in the hair treatment agent used in the present invention is preferably 0.05% by mass or more, and preferably 0.1% by mass or more. For example, it can be 0.5% by mass or more, or even 1% by mass or more. Due to the copolymer's affinity for hair, the copolymer can thoroughly coat the entire hair, and removing excess copolymer by performing the rinsing step described below prevents hair from becoming stiff. The upper limit of the amount of crosslinked silicone POA copolymer is usually 5.0% by mass or less, preferably 3.0% by mass or less, and more preferably 2.0% by mass or less. If the amount is less than 0.05% by mass, the intended effect will not be achieved, and if the amount is more than 5.0% by mass, usability may be reduced.

[0022] The hair treatment agent of the present invention can be prepared in the form of a cream, mist, mousse, gel, spray, or the like, and is not particularly limited. The hair treatment agent may optionally contain other ingredients depending on the form. Preferably, the hair treatment agent is provided in the form of a cream, mist, or gel.

[0023] For example, when preparing a cream, it is preferable to blend a crosslinked silicone POA copolymer, water, a higher alcohol, and a surfactant. The surfactant preferably includes a cationic surfactant such as a quaternary ammonium salt. The amount of cationic surfactant blended is preferably 0.1 to 2.0% by mass of the hair treatment agent, more preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by mass. In addition to the cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant and / or an amphoteric surfactant may also be included. The amount of nonionic surfactant or amphoteric surfactant blended is not particularly limited, but is typically 0.1 to 3.0% by mass, more preferably 0.3 to 1.5% by mass. On the other hand, since using only an anionic surfactant as the surfactant may not achieve the desired effect, it is preferable to avoid blending an anionic surfactant alone. The amount of higher alcohol blended is typically 0.1 to 20% by mass, preferably 1.0 to 10% by mass. The amount of water blended is not particularly limited, but is preferably 5% by mass or more of the cosmetic, typically about 50 to 90% by mass.

[0024] When the hair treatment is made into a mist, it is preferable to blend a crosslinked silicone POA copolymer, a lower alcohol, and a surfactant. The surfactant in the mist is preferably a cationic surfactant such as a quaternary ammonium salt. From the viewpoints of stability and feel after use, the blending amount of the cationic surfactant is preferably 0.01 to 1.0% by mass, more preferably 0.03 to 0.5% by mass, and even more preferably 0.05 to 0.5% by mass, based on the hair treatment agent. The lower alcohol refers to an alcohol having 5 or fewer carbon atoms, such as ethanol. From the viewpoints of stability and effect, the blending amount of the lower alcohol is preferably 10 to 60% by mass, more preferably 20 to 50% by mass.

[0025] Other optional ingredients to be incorporated into the hair treatment agent of the present invention can be appropriately selected from ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc., provided that the amount of incorporation is within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. Examples of such optional ingredients include, but are not limited to, oils, powder ingredients, natural polymers, synthetic polymers, thickeners, UV absorbers, moisturizers, sequestering agents, pH adjusters, skin nutrients, vitamins, antioxidants, antioxidant aids, fragrances, etc.

[0026] In this step, the hair treatment agent as described above is applied to the hair in a manner appropriate for its form. When the hair treatment agent is a cream, mousse, or gel, the hair treatment agent is taken up in the hands and applied to the hair, and then spread over the entire hair. When the hair treatment agent is a mist or spray, it is filled into a container appropriate for the form, and then sprayed onto the hair, and then optionally spread over the entire hair by hand.

[0027] (2) Heat treatment process In the heat treatment step, the hair to which the hair treatment agent has been applied is heated to a predetermined temperature. The heat treatment temperature is 40°C to 230°C, preferably 60°C to 200°C, more preferably 60°C to 180°C, even more preferably 80°C to 150°C, and most preferably 80°C to 120°C. If the temperature is below 40°C, the effect will not last long enough. If the temperature exceeds 230°C, the heat may damage the hair, and dyed (colored) hair may easily experience a significant change in color (fading).

[0028] The heating means is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use a hair iron or a hair dryer.

[0029] (3) Rinse-off process In the (3) rinsing step of the hair treatment method of the present invention, the hair to which the hair treatment agent has been applied is rinsed. The rinsing is preferably performed using water, but may also be performed using water containing a cleansing component such as a surfactant. By rinsing, excess hair treatment agent applied to the hair surface can be removed, resulting in a good finish.

[0030] In the hair treatment method of the present invention, the hair to which the hair treatment agent has been applied in step (1) may be subjected to the (2) heat treatment step followed by the (3) rinsing step, or the (3) rinsing step may be performed followed by the (2) heat treatment step. However, omitting either the (2) heat treatment step or the (3) rinsing step results in usability problems, such as stickiness of the treated hair. In particular, not performing the heat treatment significantly reduces the duration of the effect. It is also preferable to dry the hair before the heating step.

[0031] (4) Chemical treatment process The hair treatment method of the present invention can incorporate chemical treatment steps such as hair dyeing (coloring), permanent wave formation, or hair straightening (straightening). These chemical treatments preferably include at least one treatment selected from the following hair dyeing (coloring) treatment, permanent wave formation treatment, and hair straightening (straightening) treatment. For example, the hair dyeing treatment may be performed in combination with the permanent wave formation treatment or the hair straightening treatment.

[0032] Hair dyeing (coloring) The hair dyeing (coloring) treatment in the present invention includes permanent hair dyeing treatment, typically oxidative dyeing using a first agent containing an oxidative dye and a second agent containing an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, and hair bleaching (decoloring) treatment using a first agent containing an alkaline agent and a second agent containing hydrogen peroxide. It may also be temporary hair dyeing treatment using a coloring agent such as a pigment or an acid dye.

[0033] ·Permanent wave formation The permanent wave treatment of the present invention includes a treatment for forming a permanent wave using a first agent containing a reducing agent, typically thioglycolic acid or cysteine, and a second agent containing an oxidizing agent. It also includes a straight perm treatment using the aforementioned reducing agent and oxidizing agent.

[0034] · Hair straightening (straightening) The hair straightening (straightening) treatment in this invention refers to a treatment using, for example, a treatment agent whose main component is glyoxylic acid, and does not include the straight perm treatment using the above-mentioned reducing agent and oxidizing agent. The hair straightening treatment agent using glyoxylic acid may further contain a guanidine salt and / or urea to improve the straightening effect (see Japanese Patent No. 5947340).

[0035] In the hair treatment method of the present invention, the above-mentioned chemical treatment step is preferably carried out before the step of (1) applying a hair treatment agent. If (4) chemical treatment is carried out after (1) application of a hair treatment agent, (2) heat treatment, and (3) rinsing, penetration of the chemical treatment agent into the hair tends to be inhibited, and sufficient effects tend not to be obtained.

[0036] On the other hand, by carrying out the hair treatment method of the present invention (steps (1) to (3)) following the chemical treatment step, hair damaged by the chemical treatment agent can be effectively repaired. Step (1) of the hair treatment method of the present invention can be carried out immediately (for example, within 30 minutes, 10 minutes, or 5 minutes) after the chemical treatment step (4) is completed, and an optional washing step may be inserted between the steps.

[0037] When the hair treatment method of the present invention (steps (1) to (3)) is carried out after a hair dyeing (coloring) treatment, it is preferable to set the heating temperature in the heat treatment step (2) to a low temperature (for example, 180°C or lower, preferably 150°C or lower, more preferably 120°C or lower) in order to prevent fading. [Example]

[0038] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. The blending amounts are expressed in mass % unless otherwise specified.

[0039] Each hair treatment agent was prepared according to the formulation shown in Tables 1 and 2 below in a conventional manner. [Table 1]

[0040] [Table 2]

[0041] The hair samples were then subjected to each treatment step in the following manner, with the order of application of each step being as shown in Tables 3 and 4.

[0042] The hair samples used for the evaluation were as follows: Dyeing (coloring treatment): 8cm long, 1g weight human gray hair strand Permanent wave treatment: 30cm long, 2g weight human hair strand If not dyed or permanently waved: Damaged hair strand 15cm long and weighing 0.5g

[0043] The details of each step are as follows. (1) Step of applying a hair treatment agent (application step) A hair treatment is applied to the hair sample. (2) Heat treatment process (heating process) The hair sample was heated at a predetermined temperature. The heating temperature and heating means are shown in Tables 3 and 4. (3) Rinse process (water washing process) The hair sample is rinsed with water. (4) Chemical treatment process Dyeing (coloring) treatment: Dye the hair using an acidic hair dye (Hair Primiense, manufactured by Shiseido Professional). Permanent wave formation: Permanent waves are formed using perm treatment solution (manufactured by Shiseido Professional, CREATOR). · Hair straightening treatment: Hair is straightened using a treatment solution containing glyoxylic acid.

[0044] [Table 3]

[0045] [Table 4]

[0046] The hair samples that had been subjected to each step in the order listed in Tables 3 and 4 above were evaluated from the following perspectives. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 3 and 4. A rating of C means that there is no practical problem, B is good, and A is even better (excellent).

[0047] <Usability> The hair samples were examined by trained researchers and evaluated according to the following criteria: Evaluation criteria: A: The hair is not stiff or sticky and feels very smooth to the touch. B: The hair is not stiff or sticky and feels smooth to the touch. C: The hair is slightly stiff and sticky, but feels smooth to the touch. D: Hair is stiff and sticky and not smooth to the touch.

[0048] <Sustained effect> A 2 μL drop of water was placed on the surface of a hair sample, and the droplet was photographed under a microscope. From the photographed image, the left and right angles of the droplet on the hair were measured, and the average of these was taken as a single measurement. The same measurement was repeated three times, and the average was taken as the contact angle value. Next, washing was repeated with a 10% SLES solution shampoo containing no conditioning ingredients, and the same measurements as above were carried out to calculate the rate of change in contact angle (using the following formula). Contact angle change rate (%) = 100 × (contact angle after cleaning / contact angle before cleaning) The sustained effect was evaluated as follows based on the rate of change in contact angle calculated by the above formula. A: The contact angle change rate is 90% or more. B: The rate of change in contact angle is 80% or more and less than 90%. C: The rate of change in contact angle is 70% or more and less than 80%. D: The contact angle change rate is less than 70%.

[0049] <Effects on chemical treatment> ·Effects on dyeing (coloring) <Color effects> The color tone of the hair samples treated in each example was compared visually with Comparative Example 5 (Table 4), in which only dyeing was performed as the chemical treatment, and the change in color tone was evaluated according to the following criteria. A: There is absolutely no change in color compared to Comparative Example 5. B: Almost no change in color compared to Comparative Example 5. C: Slight change in color compared to Comparative Example 5 is observed. D: There is a significant change in color compared to Comparative Example 5.

[0050] ·Effects on permanent wave formation process <Perm effect> The condition of the permanent waves on the hair samples treated in each example was visually compared with that of Comparative Example 5 (Table 4), in which only perm treatment was performed as the chemical treatment, and the changes were evaluated according to the following criteria. A: Compared to Comparative Example 5, there was absolutely no change in the way the perm was applied. B: Compared to Comparative Example 5, there is almost no change in the way the perm is applied. C: Perm effect is slightly inferior to that of Comparative Example 5. D: Perm effect is significantly inferior to Comparative Example 5.

[0051] As shown in Tables 3 and 4, the hair samples that were subjected to (1) application of the hair treatment agent, followed by (2) heat treatment and (3) water washing treatment, had a hydrophobic surface, resulting in a smooth feel and excellent usability. It was also confirmed that the effects were excellent in duration. It was found that the above-mentioned effects could be obtained whether the heat treatment was followed by water washing or the water washing was followed by heat treatment (Examples 1 and 2).

[0052] On the other hand, in Comparative Example 2, in which no heat treatment was performed, the hair felt sticky and stiff, and the lasting effect was insufficient. In Comparative Example 3, in which no water rinsing treatment was performed, the hair did not become smooth, and a sticky feeling remained.

[0053] In Comparative Example 4, in which a chemical treatment was carried out after the treatment method of the present invention, adverse effects were particularly observed on permanent wave formation. Furthermore, when dyeing (coloring) was carried out as the chemical treatment, significant fading (change in color tone) occurred when the temperature in the heat treatment step exceeded 230°C (Comparative Example 1), but when the heating temperature was set to 200°C, fading was suppressed to an acceptable level (Example 3), and almost no fading occurred at temperatures below 180°C (Examples 1 and 4 to 6).

[0054] Furthermore, similar results were obtained when Hair Treatment Product 2 having the formulation shown in Table 2 was used as the hair treatment product. Similar results were obtained when chemical treatments such as hair dyeing (coloring) or permanent waving were followed by hair straightening treatment using glyoxylic acid.

Claims

1. (1) applying a hair treatment agent containing a cationic surfactant composed of polysilicone-29 and a quaternary ammonium salt to hair that has been subjected to at least one chemical treatment selected from the group consisting of a hair dyeing treatment, a permanent wave forming treatment, and a hair straightening treatment; (2) heat-treating the hair at 80°C to 120°C; and (3) rinsing the hair, A hair treatment method characterized by being carried out in the order of step (1), then step (2), and then step (3).

2. (1) applying a hair treatment agent containing a cationic surfactant composed of polysilicone-29 and a quaternary ammonium salt to hair that has been subjected to at least one chemical treatment selected from the group consisting of a hair dyeing treatment, a permanent wave forming treatment, and a hair straightening treatment; (2) heat-treating the hair at 80°C to 120°C; and (3) rinsing the hair, A hair treatment method characterized by being carried out in the order of step (1), then step (3), and then step (2).

3. The hair treatment method according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising a step of drying the hair before step (2).

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Personal care composition containing the reaction product of an epoxy compound and aminosilane

    JP2011503059A

  • A method of treating hair with at least one silicone functionalized with at least one alkoxysilane unit, a specific solvent and less than 5% water

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