Heathered blended yarn and woven / knitted fabrics using the same

Abstract

To provide a combined filament yarn and a knitted or woven fabric, which have appearance of a splashed pattern excellent in a gradation effect that could not be obtained by a conventional moire combined filament yarn, by combining a cation-dyeable polyester yarn having a mottle of thickness in which a deeply dyed part and a lightly dyed part appear in a fixed cycle and a polyester yarn with a small number of interlacement so that the deeply dyed parts and the lightly dyed parts are distinguishable even after combining the yarns and the knitted or woven fabric using the combined filament yarn has excellent feeling and the appearance of the splashed pattern excellent in the gradation effect.SOLUTION: A combined filament yarn consists of a cation-dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn A and a polyester multifilament yarn B. When 30 pieces of fiber-opening parts are measured in the combined filament yarn, the moire combined filament yarn has an interlacement degree CF value per 1 m of 3 or higher and 20 or less and a peak cycle of a thick part and a thin part of the yarn A of 25 cm or more and 50 cm or less.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 3

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a mottled blended yarn and a woven or knitted fabric using the same. [Background technology]

[0002] Conventionally, polyester multifilament yarns with thick and thin variations have been widely studied for their use in woven and knitted fabrics, as they can produce textile products with a natural surface feel and unique texture, thanks to the appearance of a mottled texture due to differences in dyeing and a fluffy texture due to differences in shrinkage.Furthermore, blending them with cationic dyeable polyester yarns with thick and thin variations makes it possible to produce multi-color expressions of three or more colors.

[0003] For example, a cationic dyeable polyester undrawn yarn that has been subjected to high-pressure fluid treatment to give it entangled portions is heated and drawn under specific conditions to suppress dispersion of the thick and fine portions of the single fibers, resulting in a thick-thin multifilament yarn with a strong contrast between the darkly dyed and lightly dyed portions after cationic dyeing, a method for producing the same, and a fabric with an appearance in which short, clearly visible darkly dyed portions exist on the lightly dyed areas have been proposed (see Patent Document 1).

[0004] In addition, a fabric using a mixed yarn has been proposed in which high-pressure air is sprayed independently onto an undrawn polyester multifilament yarn and an undrawn cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn to give the filaments entangled portions, and then the two yarns are aligned and heated and drawn under specific conditions, resulting in a fabric that does not entangle the portions and has a clear contrast between the darkly and lightly dyed portions (see Patent Document 2). [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0005] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2002-235240 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-144552 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0006] However, the thick-thin multifilament yarn proposed in Patent Document 1, which has a strong contrast between thick and fine portions, is said to suppress the dispersion of thick and fine portions in single fibers and to impart a strongly contrasting, kasuri-style appearance with a random periodicity between the dark-dyed and light-dyed portions.However, since the length of the dark-dyed portions is short and the periodicity with the light-dyed portions is random, the desired kasuri-style appearance can be obtained when a fabric is formed from the dark-dyed portions alone.However, when expressing three or more colors, the yarn is mixed with other yarns using a fluid nozzle, and the single fibers become entangled.As a result, the length of the dark-dyed portions and the periodicity with the light-dyed portions relative to the length of the mixed yarn become short, resulting in a marbled appearance and making it impossible to obtain a highly kasuri-style appearance.

[0007] Furthermore, the proposal in Patent Document 2 states that a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn and a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament undrawn yarn are independently entangled, and then paralleled and drawn, thereby enabling the expression of three or more colors; however, the entangled portions are not drawn and become darkly dyed portions, so the darkly dyed portions are short in length, and since the two yarns are wound without being mixed, twisting must be performed in a subsequent process, which is costly, and results in a marbled appearance, making it impossible to obtain a kasuri appearance.

[0008] The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems, and to provide a mixed yarn and woven / knitted fabrics that can give woven / knitted fabrics with a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent gradation effect that could not be obtained with conventional mixed yarns.The object of the present invention is to provide a mixed yarn and woven / knitted fabrics that combine an excellent texture and a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent gradation effect when used in woven / knitted fabrics by mixing a cationic dyeable polyester yarn and a polyester yarn that have thick and thin patterns in which the cycle of dark-dyed and light-dyed portions is longer than conventional, with a small number of entanglements, so that the dark-dyed and light-dyed portions do not fade even after mixing. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009]

[0010] As a result of investigations, the present inventors have found that by treating a polyester multifilament yarn and a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn in which thick and thin asperities appear at a constant cycle and the peak cycle of the thick and thin asperities is long by a mixed fiber entanglement method in which the mixed fiber entanglement is carried out with a small number of entanglements, and by using the resulting mixed yarn in a woven or knitted fabric, it is possible to impart a handle and surface feel that could not be obtained with conventional mixed yarns, thereby arriving at the present invention. Furthermore, in the present invention, the inventors have found that by weaving and knitting a specific polyester heathered mixed yarn and dyeing the fabric with a cationic dye by utilizing the cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin asperities and a mixed fiber entanglement method in which the thick and thin asperities appear at a constant cycle and the peak cycle of the thick and thin asperities is long, it is possible to obtain a mixed yarn and a woven or knitted fabric which have a soft, fluffy handle and a color gradation effect in which the color changes from dark to light in a long cycle, combining with the color of a polyester multifilament yarn with different dyeability.

[0010] The mixed yarn of the present invention is a mixed yarn composed of a cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and a polyester multifilament yarn B, characterized in that the degree of entanglement CF value per meter is 3 or more and 20 or less, and the peak period of the thick and thin portions of the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A is 25 cm or more and 50 cm or less.

[0011] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the mixed yarn, the coefficient of variation CV of thickness unevenness of the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A is 1.0% or more and 2.0% or less.

[0012] According to a preferred aspect of the present invention, of 30 spread portions in the mixed yarn, the length of the spread portion is such that one or more has a length of 1 mm or more and less than 100 mm, one or more has a length of 100 mm or more and less than 200 mm, and one or more has a length of 200 mm or more and 500 mm or less.

[0013] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric in which the above-mentioned mottled blended yarn is used in part. [Effects of the Invention]

[0014] The heathered blended yarn of the present invention is obtained by blending, with a small number of entanglements, a cationic dyeable polyester yarn having thick and thin patterns with a longer cycle of dark and light dyed portions than conventional yarns and a polyester yarn. This allows for multi-color expression of three or more colors with long thick and thin patterns that could not be obtained with conventional polyester blended yarns, and has a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent gradation effect. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0015] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 is a model diagram for explaining the peak period of the spectrogram of cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A used for the heathered mixed yarn of the present invention. [Figure 2] FIG. 2 is a conceptual diagram illustrating one embodiment of a preferred method for producing the mottled mixed yarn of the present invention. [Figure 3] FIG. 3 is a photograph showing the surface of the circular knitted fabric produced in Example 1. [Figure 4] FIG. 4 is a photograph showing the surface of the circular knitted fabric produced in Comparative Example 1. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0016] The mixed yarn of the present invention is a mixed yarn composed of cationic dyeable thick-thin polyester multifilament yarn A and polyester multifilament yarn B, and has a degree of entanglement CF value per meter of 3 to 20. When the degree of entanglement CF value per meter of the mixed yarn is 3 to 20, the two yarns are appropriately mixed, and a scraped appearance can be obtained after cationic dyeing. If the degree of entanglement CF value is less than 3, a scraped appearance can be obtained, but the blending ability decreases, and there is a concern that the processability during the production of woven or knitted fabrics will deteriorate and quality will be poor. If the number of entangled portions exceeds 20, stable processability and quality will be obtained, but the appearance will be marbled and the scraped appearance will not be obtained. A more preferable degree of entanglement CF value is 3 to 10.

[0017] The degree of entanglement (CF) is a dimensionless numerical value that represents the degree of entanglement. A needle is inserted into the collected yarn and made to travel; when the needle hits the entanglement point and a certain tension is applied, the needle is lowered, and the traveling length of the needle is the length of the spread portion. 30 spread portions are measured, and the average length of the spread portions is calculated. The degree of entanglement (CF) is calculated by dividing the length of 1,000 mm (1 m) by the average length of the spread portions. For example, it can be obtained from the average length of the spread portions measured using an entanglement tester (Entanglement Tester Type R-2072) manufactured by Rothschild (Switzerland). A yarn with a low CF value means that the length of the spread portions is long, and a yarn with a high CF value means that the length of the spread portions is short.

[0018] The cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A (hereinafter sometimes referred to as yarn A) used for the mixed yarn of the present invention has a peak period between thick and thin portions of 25 cm or more and 50 cm or less. This value is obtained from a fluctuation waveform measured with a yarn unevenness tester, which converts the mass fluctuation of a fiber sample, i.e., the fluctuation in weight per unit length, into an electric signal using a measurement unit, amplifies the electric signal using an amplifier, and records the fluctuation waveform on a recorder's converter. This value is obtained by graphing the frequency of each period, indicating the frequency of fluctuations in filament thickness and thinness, and determining the peak. For example, this can be determined from the peak period of the spectrogram of thick-thin unevenness measured using a KET80III / C yarn unevenness tester manufactured by Keisokuki Kogyo Co., Ltd. If the measuring device described above is unavailable, it is also possible to measure with a yarn unevenness tester capable of measuring based on the same principle as above, and determine the peak value from the frequency of the thick-thin period. Figure 1 is a model diagram illustrating the peak period of the spectrogram of cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A used for the heathered mixed yarn of the present invention. Figure 1 is a graph showing the frequency distribution of the length of the thick-thin period of cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A, and peak period 1 of the spectrogram, which is the part with the highest frequency, is read to determine the peak periods of the thick and thin parts.

[0019] When the peak period of the thick and thin portions is 20 cm or more and 50 cm or less, dispersion of the thick and thin periods is suppressed, and long-period unevenness is generated in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, so that the thick and thin periods can be said to be generated at a relatively uniform period, resulting in a heathered blended yarn that can give woven and knitted fabrics with a kasuri appearance even after blending. If the peak period is less than 20 cm, there will be many short-period unevenness between the thick and thin portions, so the resulting woven and knitted fabric will have a marbled appearance and will not have the desired kasuri appearance. If the peak period is more than 50 cm, the yarn thickness will change at a longer period, making it difficult to recognize the dark and light color gradation effect (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as the gradation effect or the dark and light color gradation effect) when the fabric is dyed. A more preferable range of the peak period of the thick and thin portions is 25 cm or more and 45 cm or less.

[0020] Preferred examples of the polymer constituting the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A include those typically used as cationic dyeable polyesters. Specifically, cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate, such as copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate, in which polyethylene terephthalate is copolymerized with an isophthalic acid component having a sulfonate group, can be used. Known isophthalic acid components having a sulfonate group may be used. Specific examples include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-sodium dimethyl sulfoisophthalate, 5-sodium diethyl sulfoisophthalate, 5-sodium diglycol sulfoisophthalate, 5-lithium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-lithium dimethyl sulfoisophthalate, 5-lithium diethyl sulfoisophthalate, and 5-lithium diglycol sulfoisophthalate. Mixtures of these may also be used, but 5-sodium dimethyl sulfoisophthalate and 5-sodium diglycol sulfoisophthalate are preferred due to their improved dyeability and ease of availability.

[0021] Generally, when a thick-thin multifilament is used alone in a woven or knitted fabric, processing conditions are set so that the period between the thick and thin portions is shortened or the period between the thick and thin portions is dispersed. This is because, when a yarn having a long and regular period between the thick and thin portions is arranged in a woven or knitted fabric, areas where the thick and thin portions of adjacent yarns overlap, partially overlap, or do not overlap tend to occur, resulting in a moire phenomenon in which the pattern changes partially when the fabric is viewed. The cationic dyeable polyester multifilament having thick and thin patterns used in the present invention is intentionally designed to have a longer and more regular period between the thick and thin portions than conventional methods, based on the discovery that blending processing with a polyester multifilament can produce a woven or knitted fabric without moire.

[0022] The cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A preferably has a coefficient of variation (CV) of thickness unevenness of 1.0% or more and 2.0% or less. The coefficient of variation (CV) is a value indicating the ratio of the magnitude of data variation to the average mass variation measurable using the yarn unevenness measuring device described above. The coefficient of variation (CV) is expressed as a ratio obtained by dividing the standard deviation, which indicates the magnitude of variation in the mass variation of the measured fiber sample, by the average mass variation and multiplying the result by 100. A larger coefficient of variation (CV) increases the mass variation in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, while a smaller coefficient of variation reduces the mass variation. A coefficient of variation (CV) of 1.0% or more and 2.0% or less is preferable for achieving a gradation effect of light and dark colors when dyed into a fabric. If the coefficient of variation (CV) is less than 1.0%, the difference between the thickness and thinness of the multifilament becomes too small, weakening the contrast between light and dark shades when dyed with a cationic dye and preventing a sufficient gradation effect. If it exceeds 2.0%, the difference between the thickness and thinness of the multifilament will become too large, resulting in a strong contrast between light and dark colors and an accentuated difference in color between light and dark colors, resulting in a color change without a gradation effect, and the difference in fineness between the thick and thin parts will become so large that practical fiber strength may not be obtained. A more preferable coefficient of variation CV of thickness unevenness is 1.1% or more and 1.8% or less.

[0023] Preferred examples of the polymer constituting the polyester multifilament yarn B (hereinafter sometimes referred to as yarn B) used in the mixed yarn of the present invention include those typically used as polyesters, and specifically, polyethylene terephthalate, etc.

[0024] It is preferable that the polyester multifilament yarn B used in the mixed yarn of the present invention has thick-thin variations like the yarn A, because the shading of the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A dyed with a cationic dyeable dye, combined with the nuances of thickness and thinness of the polyester multifilament yarn B, results in a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent high-level gradation effect. Furthermore, when the polyester multifilament yarn B is dyed with a disperse dye in combination, the shading of the yarn is also added, and when dyeing with an advanced cationic dyeable dye and dyeing with a disperse dye are combined, a mixed yarn and a woven or knitted fabric with a kasuri-style appearance with an even more excellent high-level gradation effect can be obtained.

[0025] When a polyester multifilament yarn having thick-thin variations is produced (hereinafter sometimes referred to as a polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn), the peak period of the thick and thin portions of the thickness variations is preferably in the range of 3 cm to 20 cm, more preferably 4 cm to 15 cm. The coefficient of variation (CV) is preferably in the range of 0.4% to 1.0%, more preferably 0.5% to 0.9%. It is ideal to set the peak period and coefficient of variation (CV) of the thick and thin portions of the thickness variations to the same ranges as those of yarn A. However, lengthening the peak period of the thick and thin portions means that the draw ratio when forming the thick and thin portions must be set low. Setting the draw ratio of yarn B low reduces the strength of the mixed yarn as a whole, impairs passability in subsequent processes, and reduces the tear strength of the fabric. Therefore, the preferred ranges are as described above.

[0026] In the mixed yarn of the present invention, of 30 spread portions in the mixed yarn, the lengths of one or more of the spread portions are 1 mm or more and less than 100 mm, one or more of 100 mm or more and less than 200 mm, and one or more of 200 mm or more and 500 mm or less. The length of the spread portion can be measured by the same method as the length of the spread portion measured by the above-mentioned CF value, and can be obtained from the length of the spread portion measured using, for example, an entanglement tester (Entanglement Tester Type R-2072) manufactured by Rothschild (Switzerland). When the lengths of one or more spread portions are 1 mm or more and less than 100 mm, one or more of 100 mm or more and less than 200 mm, and one or more of 200 mm or more and 500 mm or less, the entangled portions are present in a randomly dispersed state in the mixed yarn. After cationic dyeing, woven or knitted fabrics with a kasuri-like appearance can be obtained, with a multi-color expression of three or more colors in which the shades change over a long period and with an excellent gradation effect, but random distribution makes the gradation effect even more natural. The presence of spread portions with a length of more than 500 mm in the mixed yarn can provide a kasuri-like texture, but the length of the spread portions where yarn A and yarn B do not intersect becomes long, which raises concerns about deterioration of processability due to yarn breakage and fluff in the weaving and knitting process. Therefore, it is preferable that the number of spread portions with a length of more than 500 mm is less than 1. In this case, spread portions that exist irregularly and locally are not included in the above evaluation.

[0027] The shrinkage difference is crucial in forming the desired texture, and it is preferable that the shrinkage difference between the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and the polyester multifilament yarn B be at least 5% or more. Furthermore, the yarns can be optionally subjected to uneven drawing followed by a relaxation heat treatment to allow spontaneous elongation. Due to the occurrence of shrinkage after dyeing with a cationic dye, a blended yarn is formed in which the yarn with greater shrinkage serves as the core yarn and the yarn with less shrinkage serves as the sheath yarn. To impart a natural, scraped appearance to woven or knitted fabrics, it is preferable to control the yarn so that the polyester multifilament yarn B serves as the core yarn and the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A serves as the sheath yarn after processing.

[0028] The tensile strength of the core yarn of the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and polyester multifilament yarn B used in the blended yarn is preferably 2.0 cN / dtex or more. By setting the tensile strength to 2.0 cN / dtex or more, the yarn can be preferably used for women's and men's clothing and casual wear. It is more preferably 2.2 cN / dtex or more. From the viewpoint of texture and color development, an upper limit of 4.0 cN is preferred. The tensile strength of the sheath yarn is preferably 1.1 cN / dtex or more. By setting the tensile strength to 1.1 cN / dtex or more, single fiber breakage and single fiber fluffing are less likely to occur in advanced processing steps such as weaving and knitting. It is more preferably 1.2 cN / dtex or more. From the viewpoint of texture and color development, an upper limit of 4.0 cN is preferred.

[0029] Furthermore, the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and polyester multifilament yarn B used in the mixed yarn each preferably have an elongation of 25% or more. If the elongation is less than 25%, problems are likely to occur in the processability in advanced processing steps such as weaving and knitting. A more preferred elongation is 30% or more and 80% or less. If the elongation exceeds 80%, the yarns in the mixed yarn may be stretched by the processing tension applied in the advanced processing step, which may affect the obtained heathered texture.

[0030] The total fineness of the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and polyester multifilament yarn B used in the blended yarn is preferably 400 dtex or less, more preferably 250 dtex or less, in order to be suitable for women's and men's clothing.

[0031] The cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A used in the blended yarn preferably has a single yarn fineness of 1.0 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less, and the polyester multifilament yarn B preferably has a single yarn fineness of 0.3 dtex or more and 4.0 dtex or less. The cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A is more preferably 1.5 dtex or more and 4.0 dtex or less, and the polyester multifilament yarn B is more preferably 0.5 dtex or more and 3.0 dtex or less.

[0032] The cross-sectional shapes of the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and the polyester multifilament yarn B used in the blended yarn are not particularly limited, but can be any shape depending on the application, etc., and circular, triangular, flat, Y-shaped, star-shaped, wedge-shaped, and multi-lobal shapes are preferred.

[0033] The method for producing the mottled blended yarn of the present invention will be described below.

[0034] The cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and polyester multifilament yarn B used in the blended yarn are obtained by processing the highly oriented undrawn yarns that serve as the raw yarns for the respective yarns. The highly oriented undrawn yarns referred to here are yarns spun at a spinning speed of 2000 to 4500 m / min and have a birefringence index Δn in the range of 0.015 to 0.080. In the present invention, these yarns are separately drawn to obtain the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and polyester multifilament yarn B. However, if the yarns are drawn together and then drawn, the processing conditions must be adjusted to match those of the high-speed spinning yarn, making it difficult to obtain the desired figured texture, which is not preferred.

[0035] It is preferable that the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A be made into a woven or knitted fabric and dyed to have a strong contrast between light and dark shades and a long period of thick-thin patterns. Therefore, the spinning speed of the original cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn is preferably 2000 to 3000 m / min.

[0036] To produce thick-thin variations in the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A, the highly oriented undrawn yarn that serves as the raw yarn is drawn via a hot pin in the natural draw ratio range. From the viewpoint of lengthening the period between the darkly dyed and lightly dyed portions, the preferred draw ratio is 1.10 to 1.25 times, and more preferably 1.10 to 1.20 times. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of lengthening the period between the darkly dyed and lightly dyed portions, the preferred hot pin temperature is 50°C to 75°C, and more preferably 50°C to 65°C.

[0037] The polyester multifilament yarn B may be a drawn yarn without thick and thin variations, or may be a drawn yarn with thick and thin variations.

[0038] To produce a drawn yarn without thick and thin variations as yarn B, a method of drawing a highly oriented undrawn yarn through a hot pin in a plastic deformation ratio range is preferably employed. The draw ratio is 1.60 to 1.80, and more preferably 1.65 to 1.75. The hot pin temperature is preferably 90°C or higher, which is higher than the glass transition temperature of polyester, in order to prevent fluffing during drawing and reduce boiling shrinkage. More preferably, the hot pin temperature is 100°C to 160°C.

[0039] When yarn B is to be a drawn yarn having thick and thin irregularities, a method of drawing a highly oriented undrawn yarn serving as the raw yarn through a hot pin in the natural draw ratio range to form thick and thin irregularities, as in the case of cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn A, can be preferably employed. From the viewpoint of forming thick and thin irregularities and maintaining the strength of the mixed yarn, the draw ratio is 1.25 to 1.50, and more preferably 1.30 to 1.45. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of lengthening the cycle between the darkly dyed and lightly dyed portions, the hot pin temperature is preferably 50 to 75°C, and more preferably 50 to 65°C.

[0040] Regarding the heathered blended yarn of the present invention, entanglement during blending significantly affects the heathered texture of woven or knitted fabrics. Commonly known blending methods in the blending process include the Taslan blending method using a turbulent nozzle and the interlace blending method using an interlace nozzle. In the Taslan blending method using a turbulent nozzle, turbulence is generated within the nozzle, causing excessive supply of slack yarns, which individually impart a turning force to the yarns, causing them to entangle with neighboring yarns and form fine loops. Therefore, even when Taslan blending is performed using a cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament with a long period between thick and thin portions and a polyester multifilament, the entire yarns become entangled, forming fine loops, and the desired kasuri-like appearance cannot be achieved. Furthermore, in the interlace blending method using an interlace nozzle, a jet is applied from a single direction transverse to the running yarn, causing the running yarn to exhibit chord-like vibration behavior as it passes through the interlace nozzle. As the yarn crosses the jet, it opens up and the single yarns behave randomly, resulting in entanglement at both ends. Since string vibrations occur at a constant period, the lengths of the spread and entangled portions do not change significantly, but rather become shorter. Since the entangled portions are formed by the entanglement of single yarns and converging, when interlaced blending is performed using a cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament and a polyester multifilament, which have a long period between thick and thin portions, the apparent period between thick and thin portions becomes shorter when viewed in the longitudinal direction of the blended yarn due to the entanglement of the entangled portions. Therefore, even if this is used for knitting or weaving, the desired scraped appearance cannot be obtained.

[0041] In other words, known fiber-mixing methods cannot achieve a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent gradation effect. The nozzle used for the mixed yarn of the present invention differs from the nozzle used in the above-mentioned fiber-mixing method in that it applies jets from two different directions to two types of running yarns, sends them out to the nozzle outlet, and attaches a collision body at the nozzle outlet that suddenly changes the direction of travel of the yarns. As the yarns bypass the collision body and escape from the propelling fluid, the fluid passes over the sides of the supplied, slackened yarns, entangling the single yarns and forming a slight entanglement. The two different directions are preferably oblique directions from the left and right of the running yarn toward the yarn's direction of travel, and more preferably directions that are symmetrical about the running yarn. When the oblique directions are from the left and right toward the yarn's direction of travel, the angle is preferably 50° to 60° relative to the running direction, and the jets are applied from a diagonal rear direction. Unlike a turbulent nozzle, which applies a high-pressure jet to a nozzle space that only has gaps through which the yarn can escape, an interlace nozzle applies a low-pressure jet, which can produce mild entanglement. The low-pressure jet creates variations in the strength of the entanglement of the two types of single yarns in the longitudinal direction, resulting in random entanglement. To obtain the mixed yarn of the present invention, it is preferable to use the above-mentioned nozzle (hereinafter referred to as a "special interlace nozzle"). For example, a KF-JET manufactured by Heberlein is preferable. Each KF-JET has its own air consumption flow rate and optimum fineness range, so it is preferable to select a nozzle that matches the fineness of the resulting mixed yarn.

[0042] The level of the special interlace nozzle jet when blending the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and the polyester multifilament yarn B is preferably 0.2 MPa or more and 0.4 MPa or less. If the pressure is less than 0.2 MPa, the desired blending of the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and the polyester multifilament yarn B will not be achieved, resulting in reduced blending, which may lead to separation of the two yarns in subsequent processes or yarn breakage, resulting in a deterioration in the quality of the resulting woven or knitted fabric. If the pressure exceeds 0.4 MPa, sufficient blending will be achieved, but the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and the polyester multifilament yarn B will become strongly entangled, resulting in a finer grained texture in the resulting woven or knitted fabric. A more preferred range is 0.25 MPa or more and 0.35 MPa or less.

[0043] Furthermore, when blending cationic dyeable thick-thin polyester multifilament yarn A and polyester multifilament yarn B, the feed ratio between the feed roller that sends yarn A and yarn B to the nozzle and the feed roller after passing through the special interlace nozzle is preferably slightly overfeed, with the overfeed ratio preferably being 0.5% to 4.0%. If the overfeed ratio is less than 0.5%, the desired blending of yarns A and B will not be achieved, resulting in reduced blending and possible separation of the two yarns in subsequent processes, yarn breakage, and reduced quality of the resulting woven or knitted fabric. If the overfeed ratio exceeds 4.0%, the feed ratio will be too high relative to the nozzle jet, causing yarns A and B to slacken before and after the nozzle, resulting in flapping, leading to yarn breakage and friction with the guides before and after the nozzle, leading to nozzle and guide contamination. A more preferable range is 0.8% to 3.0%.

[0044] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention uses a heathered blended yarn as a part of the woven or knitted fabric. The weave of such a woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited. In the case of a woven fabric, the weave may be any of a plain weave, a twill weave, a satin weave, or a variation thereof, depending on the intended use. In the case of a knitted fabric, the weave may be any of a plain weave, an interlock weave, a smooth weave for circular knit fabrics, a half weave, a satin weave, a jacquard weave, or a variation thereof, depending on the intended use.

[0045] Woven and knitted fabrics using the heathered blended yarn of the present invention can be subjected to processes such as weight reduction to adjust the texture, physical processes such as nap raising and calendaring, and functional processes such as water-repellent, water-absorbent, and antistatic. [Example]

[0046] [Highly oriented undrawn yarn, yarn fineness] The yarn is wound 80 times on a measuring machine (circumference 1.125 m) to form a ring, and the weight is measured to four decimal places on a balance. This process is repeated 10 times, and the average of the 10 weights is taken as P, and the yarn fineness is calculated using the following formula. When measuring the fineness of yarn A and yarn B, the two yarns are wound separately before being mixed, and the measurement is carried out using the wound yarn. Yarn fineness (dtex) = P × 100 × 1.11

[0047] [Yarn tensile strength and elongation] Measurements were made in accordance with JIS L1013 Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn Test Method (2010).

[0048] The gripping distance was 200 mm, the pulling speed was 200 mm / min, and a load-elongation curve was obtained using a tensile tester (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation). The load value at break was divided by the initial fineness to obtain the strength, and the elongation at break was divided by the initial sample length to obtain the elongation. When measuring the tensile strength and elongation of yarn A and yarn B, the two yarns were wound separately before being blended, and the measurements were carried out using the wound yarn.

[0049] [Hot water shrinkage rate] The yarn is wound 10 times on a measuring machine (circumference 1.125 m) into a ring, a load of 1 / 30 g per 1 d is applied to find the length X, and then the yarn is immersed in boiling water in a free state for 30 minutes, then allowed to dry naturally, and a load of 1 / 30 g per 1 d is again applied to find the length Y, which is then calculated using the following formula.When measuring the hot water shrinkage of yarn A and yarn B, the two yarns are wound separately before being blended, and the measurement is carried out using the wound yarn. Hot water shrinkage rate (%) = [(XY) / X] x 100

[0050] [Intertwining degree CF value] Using an entanglement tester (Entanglement Tester Type-R2072) manufactured by Rothschild (Switzerland), the heathered mixed yarn was run at a constant speed of 3 m / min with an initial tension applied with the needle still inserted, and the length of the spread portion at which the tension reached a specified value (TRIP-LEVEL) at the entanglement point was measured 30 times, and the degree of entanglement per meter of the yarn was calculated based on the average length of the 30 measurements. For the heathered mixed yarn, 20 fibers were measured, and the average value was taken as the degree of entanglement (CF).

[0051] The initial tension, TRIP-LEVEL, and degree of entanglement are calculated using the following formula. Initial tension (cN) = total fineness (dtex) / 11 TRIP-LEVEL(cN) = ((total fineness (dtex) / number of filaments x 5) / 1.1) + (total fineness (dtex) / (1.1 x 10)) Degree of entanglement = 1000 mm / average length of 30 spread sections (mm)

[0052] [Peak period of thick and fine parts (peak value of spectrogram)] Just before being fed to the entanglement nozzle, cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn B were wound separately and collected as measurement samples. Using these samples, the fluctuation waveform of yarn unevenness was measured using a KET80III / C yarn unevenness tester manufactured by Keisokuki Kogyo Co., Ltd., at a yarn speed of 50 m / min, a measurement time of 2 min, a measurement range of ±12.5%, a measurement mode of 1 / 2 Inert, and a twist number of S and 30 T / M. From the fluctuation waveform, the part with the highest peak in the spectrogram shown on a semi-logarithmic graph in the X-axis direction in Figure 1 was taken as the peak period of the thick and thin parts of yarn A. The Y-axis direction of the spectrogram indicates the degree of yarn unevenness.

[0053] [Coefficient of variation of thickness variation CV value] Just before being fed to the entanglement nozzle, the cationic dyeable polyester thick-fine multifilament yarn A and the polyester thick-fine multifilament yarn B were wound separately and collected as measurement samples. Using these samples, the fluctuation waveform of yarn unevenness was measured using a KET80III / C yarn unevenness tester manufactured by Keisokuki Kogyo Co., Ltd., at a yarn speed of 50 m / min, a measurement time of 2 min, a measurement range of ±12.5%, a measurement mode of 1 / 2 Inert, and a twist number of S and 30 T / M, and the coefficient of variation of thickness unevenness, CV value (%), which is automatically calculated from the standard deviation indicating the magnitude of fluctuation based on the mass fluctuation of the fiber sample and the average value of the mass fluctuation, was read. For the heathered blended yarn, measurements were taken for 20 strands, and the average value was taken as the coefficient of variation of thickness unevenness, CV value.

[0054] [Length of spread section] Using an entanglement tester (Entanglement Tester Type-R2072) manufactured by Rothschild (Switzerland), the heathered mixed yarn was run at a constant speed of 3 m / min with an initial tension applied with the needle still inserted, and the length of the spread portion at which the tension reached a specified value (TRIP-LEVEL) at the entanglement point was measured 30 times. The lengths of the 30 times were classified into less than 1 mm, 1 mm to 100 mm, 100 mm to 200 mm, 200 mm to 500 mm, and over 500 mm, and the measurement was performed on 20 pieces of the heathered mixed yarn, and the average value of the number for each classification was defined as the length of the spread portion (mm).

[0055] [Degree of grain] The degree of the figured feel of the fabric was visually evaluated by 10 skilled experts using the following three-level rating system: Excellent and Good were considered acceptable. ◎: Has a kasuri-style grained texture and a strong gradation effect. 〇: Has a kasuri-style grained texture and a gradation effect. ×: Has a marbling-like grain and a weak gradation effect.

[0056] [Example 1] A 167-dtex, 36-filament, cation-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.017) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min and a 90-dtex, 24-filament, polyester (polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.035) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min were drawn to impart a thick-thin pattern according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 2 and under the conditions shown in Table 1. Yarns A and B were then entangled and mixed using a special interlace nozzle (KF-JET from Heberlein) to obtain a heathered mixed yarn.

[0057] 2 is a conceptual diagram showing an example of a preferred method for producing a heat-treated mixed yarn of the present invention. First, a highly oriented, cationic dyeable polyester undrawn yarn 21, which will become yarn A, passes through guide 22 and is fed by first feed roller 23. It is then drawn between second feed roller 25 and heater 24 to form thick and thin irregularities, and heat-set between third feed roller 27 and heater 26. A highly oriented, undrawn polyester yarn 28, which will become yarn B, is processed in the same way. It passes through guide 29 and is fed by fourth feed roller 210. It is drawn between fifth feed roller 212 and heater 211 to form thick and thin irregularities, and heat-set between sixth feed roller 214 and heater 213. The two processed yarns are fed to an entanglement nozzle 215, where they are entangled and mixed, and then fed by seventh feed roller 216 as heat-treated mixed yarn 217, and taken up by take-up roller 218.

[0058] The degree of entanglement CF value of the obtained mixed yarn was 6.8, the number of spread parts less than 1 mm was 0 / m, the number of spread parts of 1 mm or more and less than 100 mm was 11.8 / m, the number of spread parts of 100 mm or more and less than 200 mm was 10.3 / m, the number of spread parts of 200 mm or more and less than 500 mm was 8.0 / m, and the number of spread parts over 500 mm was 0 / m. The peak cycle of the thick and fine parts of the obtained cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A having thick and fine patterns was The peak period of the thick and thin portions of polyester multifilament yarn B with thick and thin variations was 6.4 cm, the coefficient of variation of thickness unevenness CV was 0.65%, the tensile strength was 2.96 cN / dtex, the elongation was 48.5%, the total fineness was 63.1 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage was 4.5%. The obtained heathered blended yarn was used at a blend ratio of 100% to produce a plain knit circular knit fabric with 41 wales / 2.54 cm and 38 courses / 2.54 cm on a 28G circular knitting machine.

[0059] The resulting circular knitted fabric was then subjected to a liquid flow relaxation treatment according to conventional methods, followed by drying and intermediate setting. The intermediate setting was performed at a temperature of 170°C. The resulting circular knitted fabric was then dyed using 200% cationic dye, Cation Blue GRLH, at 100°C for 30 minutes and dried according to conventional methods. The resulting circular knitted fabric had a kasuri-style heathered texture, with a surface texture that had a strong gradation effect, achieving the desired heathered texture. Figure 3 is a photograph showing the surface of the circular knitted fabric.

[0060] The resulting circular knit fabric is then cationic dyed to obtain three colors: two colors resulting from the shades of dye in thread A and one undyed color in thread B. Furthermore, the long cycle of the shades in thread A and the dispersed intertwining pitches of threads A and B result in a unique kasuri-style mottled pattern, and the three colors appear to transition in a gradational fashion.

[0061] [Example 2] A 167-dtex, 36-filament, cation-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.017) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min and a 90-dtex, 24-filament, polyester (polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.035) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min were drawn to impart a thick-thin pattern according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 2 and under the conditions shown in Table 1. Yarns A and B were then entangled and mixed using a special interlace nozzle (KF-JET from Heberlein) to obtain a heathered mixed yarn. The degree of entanglement CF value of the obtained mixed yarn was 6.8, the number of spread parts less than 1 mm was 0 / m, the number of spread parts of 1 mm or more and less than 100 mm was 11.8 / m, the number of spread parts of 100 mm or more and less than 200 mm was 10.3 / m, the number of spread parts of 200 mm or more and less than 500 mm was 8.0 / m, and the number of spread parts over 500 mm was 0 / m. The peak cycle of the thick and fine parts of the obtained cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A having thick and fine patterns was The peak period of the thick and thin portions of polyester multifilament yarn B was 6.4 cm, the coefficient of variation of thickness unevenness CV was 0.65%, the tensile strength was 2.96 cN / dtex, the elongation was 48.5%, the total fineness was 63.1 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage was 4.5%. Using the resulting blended yarn as the warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 94 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 64 / 2.54 cm. The resulting woven fabric was then subjected to a liquid flow relaxation treatment according to the usual method, followed by drying and intermediate setting. The intermediate setting was performed at a temperature of 170°C. The resulting woven fabric was then dyed using 200% cationic dye, Cation Blue GRLH, at 100°C for 30 minutes and then subjected to a conventional finishing set. The finishing set was performed at 160°C. The heathered texture was evaluated using the same method as in Example 1, and the resulting plain weave fabric had a kasuri-style heathered texture with a surface texture that had a strong gradation effect, achieving the desired heathered texture.

[0062] [Example 3] A 167-dtex, 36-filament, cation-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.017) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min and a 92-dtex, 48-filament, side-by-side, highly oriented, undrawn polyester (polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate) yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.045) produced at a spinning speed of 3800 m / min were drawn to impart a thick-thin pattern according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 2 and under the conditions shown in Table 1. Yarns A and B were then entangled and mixed using a special interlacing nozzle to obtain a heathered mixed yarn.

[0063] The degree of entanglement (CF) of the obtained mixed yarn was 7.4, the number of spread parts less than 1 mm was 0 / m, the number of spread parts of 1 mm or more and less than 100 mm was 12.6 / m, the number of spread parts of 100 mm or more and less than 200 mm was 9.8 / m, the number of spread parts of 200 mm or more and less than 500 mm was 7.4 / m, and the number of spread parts over 500 mm was 0 / m. The peak period of the thick and thin parts of the obtained cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A having thick and thin patterns was 39.1c The thickness variation coefficient (CV) of polyester side-by-side multifilament yarn B with a thickness variation of 1.33 m, tensile strength (T / D) of 1.23 cN / dtex, elongation (E / D) of 32.9%, total fineness (F / D) of 127.5 dtex, and hot water shrinkage (H / D) of 3.0% was obtained. The peak period between the thick and thin portions of the thick and thin portions of the polyester side-by-side multifilament yarn B was 5.5 cm, the thickness variation coefficient (CV) of 0.43%, tensile strength (T / D) of 3.02 cN / dtex, elongation (E / D) of 53.1%, total fineness (F / D) of 69.2 dtex, and hot water shrinkage (H / D) of 11.6% was obtained. Using the resulting blended yarn as the warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 94 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 64 / 2.54 cm. The resulting fabric was then subjected to a conventional liquid flow relaxation treatment, followed by drying and intermediate setting. The intermediate setting was performed at 170°C. The resulting woven fabric was then dyed using 200% cationic dye, Cation Blue GRLH, at 100°C for 30 minutes and then subjected to a conventional finishing set. The finishing set was performed at 160°C. The heathered texture was evaluated using the same method as in Example 1, and the resulting plain weave fabric had a kasuri-style heathered texture and a surface texture with a gradation effect, achieving the desired heathered texture.

[0064] [Comparative Example 1] A 167 decitex, 36-filament, cation-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.017) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min and a 90 decitex, 24-filament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.035) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min were drawn to impart thick and thin variations under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 2, and yarns A and B were intertwined using an interlace nozzle to obtain a heathered blended yarn.

[0065] The interlace nozzle is a one-way nozzle that is transverse to the running direction of the yarn. A jet of air is blown from the thread A conventional interlaced nozzle was used, in which the nozzle crosses the jet.

[0066] The degree of entanglement (CF) of the obtained mixed yarn was 67.9, the number of spread parts less than 1 mm was 0 / m, the number of spread parts of 1 mm or more and less than 100 mm was 30.0 / m, the number of spread parts of 100 mm or more and less than 200 mm was 0 / m, the number of spread parts of 200 mm or more and less than 500 mm was 0 / m, and the number of spread parts over 500 mm was 0 / m. The peak period of the thick and fine parts of the obtained cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A having thick and fine patterns was 33 The peak period of the thick and thin portions of polyester multifilament yarn B having a blend ratio of 6.4 cm was 6.4 cm, the coefficient of variation of thickness unevenness CV was 0.65%, the tensile strength was 2.96 cN / dtex, the elongation was 48.5%, the total fineness was 63.1 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage was 4.5%. The blended yarn obtained was used at a blend ratio of 100% to produce a plain knit circular knit fabric with 41 wales / 2.54 cm and 38 courses / 2.54 cm using a 28G circular knitting machine. The fabric was processed under the same conditions as in Example 1 and the heathered feel was evaluated using the same method as in Example 1. The obtained circular knitted fabric had a marbling-like heathered texture and a weak gradation effect on the surface, and the desired heathered texture was not obtained. Figure 4 is a photograph showing the surface of the circular knitted fabric.

[0067] The obtained circular knit fabric was cationic dyed to obtain three colors: two colors due to the shades of the dye of yarn A and one undyed color of yarn B. However, the overall color had a marbled heathered feel and the gradation effect was weak. This is presumably because the degree of entanglement (CF) value was high, so even if the peak cycle of yarn A was lengthened, the length of the spread parts was short, and the entanglement of yarns due to entanglement shortened the apparent length of the shades in the mixed yarn.

[0068] Comparative Example 2 A 167 decitex, 36 filament, cation-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.017) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min and a 90 decitex, 24 filament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.035) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min were drawn to impart thick and thin variations under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the production process shown in Figure 2, and yarns A and B were subjected to an entangled mixed fiber processing using the same interlace nozzle as used in Comparative Example 1 to obtain a heathered mixed yarn.

[0069] The degree of entanglement (CF) of the obtained mixed yarn was 67.9, the number of spread parts less than 1 mm was 0 / m, the number of spread parts of 1 mm or more and less than 100 mm was 30.0 / m, the number of spread parts of 100 mm or more and less than 200 mm was 0 / m, the number of spread parts of 200 mm or more and less than 500 mm was 0 / m, and the number of spread parts over 500 mm was 0 / m. The peak period of the thick and fine parts of the obtained cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A having thick and fine patterns was 33 The peak period of the thick and thin portions of polyester multifilament yarn B having a thickness unevenness of 6.4 cm was 6.4 cm, the coefficient of variation of thickness unevenness CV was 0.65%, the tensile strength was 2.96 cN / dtex, the elongation was 48.5%, the total fineness was 63.1 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage was 4.5%. Using the resulting blended yarn as the warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 94 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 64 / 2.54 cm, and processed under the same conditions as in Example 2. The heathered texture was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The resulting plain woven fabric had a marbled heathered texture and a weak gradation effect on the surface, failing to achieve the desired heathered texture.

[0070] Comparative Example 3 A 167 decitex, 36-filament, cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.017) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min and a 90 decitex, 24-filament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.035) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min were drawn to impart thick and thin variations under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 2, and yarns A and B were blended using a Taslan nozzle to obtain a heathered blended yarn.

[0071] The resulting mixed yarn was entangled entirely by the Taslan nozzle, forming fine loops, making it impossible to measure the degree of entanglement (CF) and the number of spread portions. The resulting cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A with thick and thin irregularities had a peak period of 33.7 cm between the thick and thin portions, a coefficient of variation CV of thickness irregularities of 1.28%, a tensile strength of 1.23 cN / dtex, an elongation of 32.9%, a total fineness of 127.5 dtex, and a hot water shrinkage of 3.0%. The resulting polyester multifilament yarn B with thick and thin irregularities had a peak period of 6.4 cm between the thick and thin portions, a coefficient of variation CV of thickness irregularities of 0.65%, a tensile strength of 2.96 cN / dtex, an elongation of 48.5%, a total fineness of 63.1 dtex, and a hot water shrinkage of 4.5%. Using the blended yarn thus obtained as the warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 94 threads / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 64 threads / 2.54 cm, and processed under the same conditions as in Example 2, and the heathered texture was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The plain woven fabric thus obtained had a marbled heathered texture with a surface texture that had a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered texture was not obtained.

[0072] Comparative Example 4 A 167-dtex, 36-filament, cationic-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.017) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min and a 90-dtex, 24-filament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.035) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min were drawn to impart thick and thin variations according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 2 and under the conditions shown in Table 1. Yarn A and yarn B were then blended using a special interlace nozzle to obtain a heathered blended yarn.

[0073] The degree of entanglement (CF) of the obtained mixed yarn was 7.3, the number of spread portions less than 1 mm was 0 / m, the number of spread portions of 1 mm or more and less than 100 mm was 11.1 / m, the number of spread portions of 100 mm or more and less than 200 mm was 10.6 / m, the number of spread portions of 200 mm or more and less than 500 mm was 8.7 / m, and the number of spread portions over 500 mm was 0 / m. The peak cycle of the thick and fine portions of the obtained cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A having thick and fine patterns was The peak period of the thick and thin portions of polyester multifilament yarn B having thick and thin variations was 4.6 cm, the coefficient of variation of thickness unevenness CV was 0.59%, the tensile strength was 1.33 cN / dtex, the elongation was 30.8%, the total fineness was 126.4 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage was 2.8%. The peak period of the thick and thin portions of polyester multifilament yarn B having thick and thin variations was 6.4 cm, the coefficient of variation of thickness unevenness CV was 0.65%, the tensile strength was 2.96 cN / dtex, the elongation was 48.5%, the total fineness was 63.1 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage was 4.5%. Using the obtained blended yarn as the warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 94 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 64 / 2.54 cm, and the fabric was processed under the same conditions as in Example 2 and evaluated for heathered texture using the same method as in Example 1. The obtained plain weave fabric had a marbled texture with a weak gradation effect, and the desired texture could not be obtained.

[0074] [Table 1]

[0075] [Table 2] [Explanation of symbols]

[0076] 1: Spectrogram peak period 21: Cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 22: Guide 23: First feed roller 24: Heat Pin 25: Second feed roller 26: Heater 27: Third feed roller 28: Polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 29: Guide 210: Fourth feed roller 211: Heat Pin 212: Fifth feed roller 213: Heater 214: Sixth feed roller 215: Entangling nozzle 216: Seventh feed roller 217: Heathered blended yarn 218: Winding roller

Claims

1. A heathered mixed yarn which is a mixed yarn composed of a cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A and a polyester multifilament yarn B, wherein the degree of entanglement CF value per meter is 3 or more and 20 or less, the peak period of the thick portion and the thin portion of the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A is 25 cm or more and 50 cm or less, and among 30 spread portions in the mixed yarn, the lengths of the spread portions are 1 mm or more and less than 100 mm, 100 mm or more and less than 200 mm, and 100 mm or more and less than 500 mm.

2. The mottled blended yarn according to claim 1, wherein the coefficient of variation CV of thickness unevenness of the cationic dyeable polyester thick-thin multifilament yarn A is 1.0% or more and 2.0% or less.

3. A heathered blended yarn as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester multifilament yarn B has thick details, the peak period of the thick and fine parts of the thickness variation is 3 cm or more and 20 cm or less, and the coefficient of variation CV of the thickness variation is 0.4% or more and 1.0% or less.

4. A woven or knitted fabric comprising a part thereof made of the mottled blended yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

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