Composite false twist blended yarn and woven / knitted fabric

Abstract

To provide a composite false twisted combined filament yarn, which enables deeply dyed parts and lightly dyed parts to be distinguishable even after combining the yarns and exhibits excellent feeling with soft and smooth touch and appearance of a splashed pattern excellent in gradation effect that could not be obtained by a conventional false twisted combined filament yarn when used in a knitted or woven fabric and dyed, and a knitted or woven fabric.SOLUTION: A composite false twisted combined filament yarn consists of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, and entirely has false twisted crimps. Per 30 fiber-opening parts, the composite false twisted combined filament yarn and a knitted or woven fabric have one or more and 15 or less of fiber-opening parts with interlace distance of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, one or more and 15 or less of fiber-opening parts with interlace distance of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and one or more and 10 or less of fiber-opening parts with interlace distance of 50 mm or more.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 4

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composite false-twisted blended yarn and a woven or knitted fabric using the same. [Background technology]

[0002] Conventionally, composite false twist textured yarns have been widely used in the clothing field, and various proposals have been made to achieve a smooth texture and a natural heathered appearance.

[0003] For example, a composite textured yarn has been proposed in which a multifilament yarn with a false-twist crimp and a non-crimped multifilament yarn are used, and an air control valve that controls the injection of compressed air from an air tank is connected to the fluid treatment, and by computer control, entangled concentrated areas and non-entangled areas exist alternately in the longitudinal direction of the composite textured yarn, and the lengths of these areas are random (see Patent Document 1).

[0004] Furthermore, in order to provide knitted fabrics that have excellent anti-snagging properties without compromising soft texture or stretchability, low-torque, low-interlace processed yarns composed of two or more types of false-twisted crimped processed yarns have been proposed (see Patent Document 2). [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0005] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2005-307382 [Patent Document 2] Patent No. 5155162 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0006] However, in the composite false twist blended yarn proposed in Patent Document 1 above, in which entanglement concentrated parts and non-entangled parts exist alternately in the longitudinal direction, entanglement concentrated parts and short non-entangled parts exist alternately at approximately equal intervals, and the cycle of the darkly dyed parts and the lightly dyed parts relative to the yarn length after blending is short, so that the parts where entanglement is concentrated have a marbled appearance and it is not possible to obtain a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent high-level gradation effect.

[0007] Furthermore, the proposal in Patent Document 2 is an entangled yarn that is made up of two or more types of false-twisted crimped yarn and that has been subjected to interlacing processing, but the entanglement process (interlacing processing) is carried out using a normal interlacing nozzle, and entangled sections and short unentangled sections exist alternately at approximately equal intervals. As a result, the cycle between the darkly dyed and lightly dyed sections relative to the length of the yarn after blending is short, and therefore the areas where the entanglement is concentrated have a marbled appearance, and it was not possible to obtain a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent high-level gradation effect.

[0008] The present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned problems, and aims to provide a composite false-twisted blended yarn and woven / knitted fabrics which do not settle into darkly dyed and lightly dyed parts even after blending, and which, when used in woven / knitted fabrics for dyeing, have a soft, smooth feel and excellent texture, as well as a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent gradation effect that could not be obtained with conventional false-twisted blended yarns. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] As a result of further investigations, the present inventors have discovered that by processing two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns using a false twist entanglement method in which the entanglement spacing is controlled and the number of entanglements is reduced, and by using the resulting composite false twist blended yarn in woven or knitted fabrics, it is possible to impart a handle and surface feel that could not be obtained with conventional blended yarns, thereby arriving at the present invention. Furthermore, in the present invention, the inventors have discovered that by weaving and knitting a specific thick and thin cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn and a thick and thin polyester side-by-side (polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament yarn, controlling the thick and thin patterns of the cationic dyeable polyester and the entanglement spacing, and dyeing the fabric with a cationic dye using a blend entanglement method with a low number of entanglements, it is possible to obtain a blended yarn and a woven or knitted fabric that has a softer, smoother handle and a color that changes from dark to light over a long period, resulting in a more natural gradation effect that combines the colors of the polyester multifilament yarns with different dyeabilities.

[0010] The composite false twist mixed yarn of the present invention is a composite false twist mixed yarn composed of at least two kinds of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, which has false twist crimp overall, and among 30 spread portions, there are 1 to 15 spread portions with an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, and there are 1 to 15 spread portions with an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and there are 1 to 10 spread portions with an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more.

[0011] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the thermoplastic multifilament yarn of the composite false twist blended yarn comprises a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A and a cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn B, and contains 20% by mass or more and 80% by mass or less of the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A.

[0012] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composite false twist blended yarn comprises thermoplastic multifilament yarns, at least one of which has latent crimping properties.

[0013] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composite false twist blended yarn has at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns each having uneven thickness in the fiber axis direction, and the thick portions of the respective yarns are out of phase with each other, the yarn structure has a partially reversible yarn length difference, and the actual yarn length difference between the yarns is 3% or less.

[0014] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composite false twist blended yarn has an entanglement rate of 2 to 45 entanglements / m under a load of 0.1 g / dtex, and an entanglement rate of 0 to 30 entanglements / m under a load of 0.5 g / dtex.

[0015] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric in which the composite false twist blended yarn is used in part.

[0016] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is also a woven or knitted fabric comprising, at least in part, a composite false twist mixed yarn which is composed of at least two kinds of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, and which has false twist crimp overall, and among 30 spread portions, there is 1 to 15 spread portions having an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, there is 1 to 15 spread portions having an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and there is 1 to 10 spread portions having an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more.

[0017] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is a woven or knitted fabric in which the number of entanglements of the composite false twist blended yarn is 1 or more / m and 35 or less / m. [Effects of the Invention]

[0018] The composite false-twist blended yarn of the present invention is composed of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarn, has a false-twist crimp as a whole, and by controlling the entangled and open portions, it is woven into a woven or knitted fabric and, when dyed, has a soft, smooth feel and an excellent texture and a scraped appearance with an excellent gradation effect, which could not be obtained with conventional composite false-twist blended yarns. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0019] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 is a conceptual diagram illustrating one embodiment of a preferred method for producing a false-twisted blended yarn of the present invention. [Figure 2] FIG. 2 is a conceptual diagram illustrating one embodiment of a preferred method for producing the false-twisted blended yarn of the present invention. [Figure 3] FIG. 3 is a conceptual diagram illustrating one embodiment of a preferred method for producing the false-twisted blended yarn of the present invention. [Figure 4] FIG. 4 is a photograph, used as a drawing, of the surface of the circular knitted fabric obtained in Example 2. [Figure 5] FIG. 5 is a photograph, used as a drawing, of the surface of the circular knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Example 2. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0020] The false twist mixed yarn of the present invention is a composite false twist mixed yarn composed of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, which has false twist crimps overall, and when the entanglement spacing is measured for 30 spread portions in the false twist mixed yarn, the number of spread portions having an entanglement spacing of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 1 to 15, the number of spread portions having an entanglement spacing of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 1 to 15, and the number of spread portions having an entanglement spacing of 50 mm or more is 1 to 10, so that the yarns are appropriately mixed, and when woven or knitted into a woven or knitted fabric and dyed, a scraped appearance can be obtained.

[0021] When the number of spread parts with an entanglement interval of any one of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, or 50 mm or more is less than 1, a scraped appearance can be obtained, but the fiber mixing property decreases, and there is a concern that the process passability will deteriorate and quality will be poor when manufacturing woven or knitted fabrics. Furthermore, when the number of spread parts with an entanglement interval of any one of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, or 50 mm or more exceeds 15, stable process passability and quality can be obtained, but a marbled appearance will result and a scraped appearance will not be obtained. A more preferable number of spread parts is such that the number of spread parts with an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 1 to 10, the number of spread parts with an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 1 to 10, and the number of spread parts with an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more is 1 to 10. To measure the lengths of 30 spread portions in the false twist blended yarn, one end of a randomly sampled textured yarn is fixed to a clamp and hung vertically, and an initial load (0.002 g / dtex) is applied to the other 1 m end and left to stand for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, it is excluded from the measurement. The intertwined points are confirmed visually and marks are made at the centers of the intertwined points with a marker. The area sandwiched between adjacent intertwined points (marks) is defined as the spread portion, and the length between the intertwined points is defined as the intertwining spacing. The number of spread portions (pieces) and the length (mm) between the intertwined points are measured from the fixed end, and the intertwining spacing of the 30 spread portions is measured.

[0022] The false twist blended yarn of the present invention is composed of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns. The thermoplastic multifilament yarns are thermoplastic synthetic fibers, which are generally classified as fibers.

[0023] As the at least two or more types of thermoplastic multifilament yarn, it is preferable to combine composite textured yarns of thermoplastic multifilaments with different dyeabilities, and it is preferable to use a fiber yarn dyeable with a cationic dye, such as a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn, as one type. Examples of other polymers constituting the thermoplastic multifilament yarn include polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyesters such as polylactic acid, polyolefins such as polypropylene, polymers such as polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polylactic acid, polyurethane, and polyphenylene sulfide, and copolymers thereof.

[0024] In the above, "different dyeability" means that a color difference appears between fiber types when different types of fibers are dyed under dyeing conditions that allow at least one type of fiber to be dyed. Furthermore, a fiber yarn dyeable with a cationic dye refers to a fiber yarn that can be dyed with a cationic dye (hereinafter, "dyeable with a cationic dye" may also be referred to as "cationic dyeable"). Thermoplastic multifilament yarns other than fiber yarns dyeable with cationic dyes are referred to as other thermoplastic multifilament yarns or, for convenience, "yarns not dyeable with cationic dyes," and "not dyeable with cationic dyes" may also be referred to simply as "not dyeable with cationic dyes."

[0025] The material of these thermoplastic multifilament yarns may contain various additives in the polymer, such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, and barium oxide, colorants such as carbon black, dyes, and pigments, flame retardants, fluorescent whitening agents, antioxidants, or ultraviolet absorbers.

[0026] The cross-sectional shape of the fiber can be a perfect circle, as well as a flat cross-section, a polygonal cross-section such as a triangle, square, hexagon, or octagon, a bell-shaped cross-section with some irregularities, a Y-shaped cross-section, a star-shaped cross-section, and various other cross-sectional shapes.

[0027] Preferred examples of the polymer constituting the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn include those typically used as cationic dyeable polyesters. Specifically, cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate, such as copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with an isophthalic acid component having a sulfonate group, can be used. A commonly used isophthalic acid component having a sulfonate group may be used. Specific examples include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-sodium dimethyl sulfoisophthalate, 5-sodium diethyl sulfoisophthalate, 5-sodium diglycol sulfoisophthalate, 5-lithium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-lithium dimethyl sulfoisophthalate, 5-lithium diethyl sulfoisophthalate, and 5-lithium diglycol sulfoisophthalate. Mixtures of these may also be used, but 5-sodium dimethyl sulfoisophthalate and 5-sodium diglycol sulfoisophthalate are preferred due to their improved dyeability and ease of availability.

[0028] The composite false twisted blended yarn has a false twist crimp throughout, preferably a crimp structure of 60% to 100%. A composite false twisted blended yarn with a crimp structure of 60% or more provides particularly excellent crimp, allowing for good processability in the production of woven or knitted fabrics, resulting in excellent quality and a more desirable smooth feel. To measure the crimp structure of a composite false twisted blended yarn, a 30cm length of composite false twisted blended yarn is taken from the warp or weft direction of a dyed and finished woven or knitted fabric, and observed from the side in the longitudinal direction of the polyester composite false twisted blended yarn using a VHX-500 digital microscope (manufactured by Keyence Corporation) under a load of 1 / 30g of the total fineness (D). All multifilaments are measured, and the number of all multifilaments is defined as A, and the number of multifilaments with crimps is defined as B, to define the false twist crimp ratio ((B ÷ A) × 100(%)). When evaluating using a composite false twist blended yarn, it is treated in hot water at 98°C for 30 minutes without applying a load, and one 30cm sample is taken from the treated blended yarn and evaluated. The reason for the hot water treatment here is that when the composite false twist blended yarn contains fibers with latent crimping properties, the crimping becomes apparent during heat treatment in the process of being manufactured into woven or knitted fabrics after knitting, weaving, dyeing, and finishing, and the product has crimp, so it is appropriate to treat it as a multifilament yarn with crimping properties. Therefore, the hot water treatment is performed as a simulation to make the crimp apparent, and this can be evaluated as a multifilament yarn with crimping properties. In the present invention, the thermoplastic multifilament yarn preferably comprises a fiber yarn dyeable with a cationic dye and a fiber yarn that is not dyeable with a cationic dye. In particular, it preferably comprises a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A and a cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn B.

[0029] The proportion of the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A in the composite false twist blended yarn is preferably 10% by mass or more and 90% by mass or less, and more preferably 20% by mass or more and 80% by mass or less. The preferred proportions of other cationic dyeable fiber yarns are the same as those described above.

[0030] If the ratio of fiber yarns dyeable with cationic dyes is less than this, the cationic dye-dyeable yarns will be hidden by the entangled mixed fibers, making it difficult to achieve a multicolor effect. Conversely, if the ratio of fiber yarns dyeable with cationic dyes is greater than this, the cationic dye-undyeable yarns will also be hidden by the entangled mixed fibers, making it difficult to achieve a multicolor effect. From the standpoint of processability, a high ratio of fiber yarns dyeable with cationic dyes is also undesirable because the thermoplastic multifilament yarn is prone to fluffing and the strength also decreases significantly as the ratio increases.

[0031] Similarly, when this method is applied to at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns with different dyeabilities, the ratio of one type of thermoplastic multifilament yarn is preferably 10% by mass or more, more preferably 20% by mass or more. The upper limit is preferably 90% by mass or less, more preferably 80% by mass or less. This prevents the one type of thermoplastic multifilament yarn and the other type of thermoplastic multifilament yarn from being too obscured by intermingling, thereby achieving a better gradation effect.

[0032] At least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns of the present invention preferably has latent crimping properties. In composite false twist blended yarns, the cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn usually has the form of a multifilament and may be a fiber composed of a single component, i.e., a single fiber, or a conjugate fiber composed of two or more components. In the case of a conjugate fiber composed of two or more components, a side-by-side conjugate fiber is preferred. By using a side-by-side conjugate fiber, woven or knitted fabrics with excellent stretchability and stretch-back properties can be obtained due to the coil crimp of the conjugate fiber accompanying the false twist crimp. The coil crimp is thought to occur due to the difference in internal strain between the two component polymers caused by drawing and heat after spinning, and crimp occurs when the conjugate fiber is exposed to heat in a relaxed state. A side-by-side conjugate fiber is preferably made of two polyester polymers with different viscosities.

[0033] The polymer constituting the side-by-side conjugated fiber is preferably a polyester polymer, and the polyester polymer can be selected from polyethylene terephthalate, polymethylene terephthalate, or polybutylene terephthalate. Note that the two types of polyester polymers referred to here do not only refer to polymers with different polymer structures, but also to polymers of the same type but with different viscosities, which are understood to be different types.

[0034] Among these, a conjugate fiber formed by a side-by-side type composite of polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate is preferred.

[0035] The at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns used in the present invention are preferably crimped yarns with thickness variations in the fiber axis direction. While there are several methods for imparting thickness variations, considering the need to impart crimps through false twisting, the use of thick-and-thin processing is superior. The thick portions of thick-and-thin yarns are low-oriented and therefore readily absorb dyes, resulting in darker dyeing. Conversely, the thin portions are highly oriented and therefore less readily absorb dyes, resulting in lighter colors. In other words, by imparting thickness variations to both the cationic dye-dyeable polyester fiber yarn and the cationic dye-undyeable polyester fiber yarn, a more multicolored and natural mottled texture can be achieved. While the mottled texture produced by thick-and-thin yarns depends on the processing conditions, it has relatively long, light-and-dark sections, making it easy to achieve a flowing mottled texture, which is advantageous for more pronounced expression of the effects of the present invention. Furthermore, it is preferable that the phases of the thick portions of each yarn are shifted. The phase shift of the thick parts means that the phase of the thick parts between each thread is irregular, and although there are extremely rare areas where they match, the phase of the thick parts is mostly different. As will be explained later, by adopting this structure, it is possible to expect a fluffier feel and further improvements to the flecks produced by twisting the yarn.

[0036] In the composite false twist blended yarn of the present invention, the substantial difference in yarn length between the yarns is preferably 3% or less. The yarn length difference here is a value measured by the method described below. For example, in the case of a combination of a cationic dyeable fiber yarn and a cationic non-dyeable fiber yarn, the substantial difference in yarn length refers to the difference in the total length in the fiber axis direction between the cationic dyeable fiber yarn and the cationic non-dyeable fiber yarn. In the case of a core-sheath structure, a larger yarn length difference is advantageous for achieving a fluffy feel. However, the composite false twist blended yarn of the present invention has a sufficient fluffy feel even when the yarn length difference is substantially 3% or less. Furthermore, when at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns have uneven thickness in the fiber axis direction, it is preferable that the resulting voids are avoided and that the thick portions of the yarns are out of phase with each other, while the thick portions of each filament are largely in phase with each other. This results in an even more excellent fluffy feel. The thick portion (thick portion) of each yarn is an incompletely stretched portion, which is less oriented than the stretched portion and has a high elongation. Conversely, the thin portion (thin portion) is a fully stretched portion, which is highly oriented and has a relatively low elongation. Therefore, the highly oriented thin portion acts like a core yarn, and the low oriented thick portion acts like a sheath yarn. This occurs in both the cationic dyeable fiber yarn and the cationic dye-undyable fiber yarn, resulting in a partial core-sheath structure between the yarns, which forms a random structure with a partially reversible yarn length difference that is reversed in each portion, resulting in a particularly excellent fluffy feel. Here, partially reversible yarn length difference means that in the portions where the thick portion and thin portion of each yarn are aligned, the yarn on the thick portion side is longer, resulting in a yarn length difference in this portion. Conversely, when the thick portion and thin portion are reversed, the yarn in the opposite direction is longer. In other words, this means that there is a difference in yarn length in each portion, and that the difference in yarn length is reversible, such that some portions become core yarns or sheath yarns. Similarly, when using a combination of thermoplastic multifilament yarns other than the above-mentioned cationic dye-dyeable fiber yarns, it is preferable to keep the difference in yarn length between the yarns contained in the composite false twist blended yarn of the present invention within an appropriate range. This is preferable in that it favorably suppresses the occurrence of a thick feeling, neps due to ironing, and heather defects due to yarn slippage.

[0037] The composite false-twist blended yarn of the present invention, even after blending, does not fade when dyed, with darkly dyed portions dyed relatively darkly and lightly dyed portions dyed relatively lightly. Furthermore, when used in woven or knitted fabrics, it provides a soft, smooth, and excellent texture. As a result, it is preferable to obtain a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent gradation effect. Furthermore, it is even more preferable to use two or more thermoplastic multifilament yarns with different dyeabilities, such as cationic dyeable fiber yarns and cationic non-dyeable fiber yarns, to make a composite false-twist blended yarn, knit, weave, and dye it, as this will provide an even more excellent gradation effect and a natural kasuri-style appearance.

[0038] Therefore, in the present invention, it is preferable to use false twisted blended yarn in at least a part of the woven or knitted fabric. It is particularly preferable to use false twisted blended yarn in all of the warp and / or weft yarns constituting the woven fabric, or in all of the knitting yarns constituting the knitted fabric, in order to achieve an excellent gradation effect. It is also preferable to use it in combination with other fibers to achieve the desired design. When used in combination with other fibers, the composite false twisted blended yarn preferably comprises 60% by mass or more.

[0039] The weave of the woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited. In the case of woven fabrics, the weave may be any of plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, or variations thereof, depending on the intended use. In the case of knitted fabrics, the weave may be any of plain weave, interlock weave, smooth weave for circular knit fabrics, half weave, satin weave, jacquard weave, or variations thereof, depending on the intended use.

[0040] Woven and knitted fabrics made from the false-twisted blended yarn of the present invention can be subjected to processes such as weight reduction to adjust the texture, physical processes such as nap raising and calendaring, and functional processes such as water-repellent, water-absorbent, and antistatic.

[0041] The number of entanglements in the composite false twist mixed yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 1 or more / m to 35 or less, more preferably 5 or more / m to 15 or less. The number of entanglements here is the number of entanglements measured by the method described below in "Number of entanglements in separated yarns."

[0042] Furthermore, in the composite false twist mixed yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, when the entanglement spacing is measured for 30 spread portions in the false twist mixed yarn, it is preferable that the number of spread portions having an entanglement spacing of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 1 to 15, the number of spread portions having an entanglement spacing of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 1 to 15, and the number of spread portions having 50 mm or more is 1 to 10, and it is more preferable that the number of spread portions having an entanglement spacing of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 1 to 10, the number of spread portions having 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 1 to 10, and the number of spread portions having 50 mm or more is 1 to 10. Note that the number of spread portions and entanglement spacing referred to here are values ​​measured by the methods described below in "Number of spread portions and entanglement spacing of resolved yarns."

[0043] Next, the method for producing the composite false twisted blended yarn of the present invention will be described.

[0044] The present invention relates to a composite false-twisted blended yarn comprising at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns. The method for producing the composite false-twisted blended yarn comprises separately drawing two or more highly oriented undrawn thermoplastic synthetic multifilament yarns, which serve as raw yarns, in a heating device at a temperature not exceeding the glass transition temperature of each highly oriented undrawn yarn plus 50°C, followed by a false-twisting process and an entanglement process at a draw ratio of 1.1 or more in a single false-twisting process. As in the previous examples, the method will be described using a polyethylene terephthalate fiber yarn dyeable with cationic dyes and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber yarn that is undyable (non-dyeable) to cationic dyes but dyeable with disperse dyes. The highly oriented undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn dyeable with cationic dyes and the highly oriented undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn that is undyable to cationic dyes are separately drawn in a heating device at a temperature not exceeding the glass transition temperature of each highly oriented undrawn yarn plus 50°C. The highly oriented undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn referred to here has a spinning speed of 2000 to 4500 m / min and a birefringence index Δn in the range of 0.015 to 0.080. In the present invention, these yarns are drawn separately, allowing for the selection of a draw ratio appropriate for each yarn quality, enabling a wide variety of combinations. However, if the yarns are drawn parallel to one another and then drawn, the processing conditions must be adjusted to match the high-speed yarn. Differences in spinning speeds can result in differences in yarn length, which can lead to concerns about the occurrence of neps due to loosening or ironing. Furthermore, drawing at a temperature equal to or lower than the glass transition point (GTS) + 50°C is preferred, as this results in particularly pronounced figuredness. The drawing temperatures may also be different for each yarn. The drawn yarns are doubled in the false twist section, but the doubled yarns may be drawn parallel to one another using rollers before the false twist section.

[0045] The draw ratio in the draw-twisting process is preferably 1.1 times or more, and more preferably 1.1 times or more and 1.9 times or less.

[0046] The draw ratio when performing thick and thin false twisting is preferably 1.1 times or more, and more preferably 1.1 times or more and 1.3 times or less. A draw ratio of 1.1 times or more is preferable because the processing is stable regardless of the yarn speed and yarn breakage is suppressed. A draw ratio of 1.3 times or less is preferable because the thick part is maintained in a good state by drawing and a particularly excellent figured grain is obtained.

[0047] The false twisting device may be of the pin type, triaxial circumferential friction type, or belt nip type, but the triaxial circumferential friction type or belt nip type is preferred because it allows high-speed processing. In addition, it is necessary to impart entanglement to converge the two yarns.

[0048] Regarding the composite false-twisted blended yarn of the present invention, entanglement during false-twist blending significantly affects the texture of woven or knitted fabrics. Commonly known entanglement blending methods in the false-twist blending process include the Taslan blending method using a turbulent nozzle and the interlace blending method using an interlace nozzle. In the Taslan blending method using a turbulent nozzle, turbulence is generated within the nozzle, causing excessive supply of slack yarns, which individually impart a turning force to the slack yarns, causing them to entangle with neighboring yarns and form fine loops. Therefore, even when Taslan blending is performed using at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns in the fiber axis direction, the entire yarns become entangled, forming fine loops, and the desired kasuri-like appearance cannot be achieved. Furthermore, in the interlace blending method using an interlace nozzle, a jet is applied from a single direction transverse to the running yarn, causing the running yarn to exhibit chord-like vibration behavior as it passes through the interlace nozzle. As the yarn crosses the jet, it opens up and the single yarns behave randomly, resulting in entanglement at both ends. Because the string vibrations at a constant cycle, the lengths of the spread and entangled portions do not change significantly, but rather become shorter. Since the entangled portions are formed when single yarns become entangled and converge, even if interlaced fibers are mixed using at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns in the fiber axis direction, the entangled portions are formed at short lengths, making it impossible to obtain the desired kasuri appearance.

[0049] In other words, conventional blending methods cannot achieve a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent gradation effect. The nozzle used for the composite false twist blended yarn of the present invention has a different blending principle from the nozzle used in the blending method described above. Jets are applied from two different directions to two types of running yarns and sent out to the nozzle outlet, and a guide is attached to the nozzle outlet to suddenly change the direction of the yarn. As the yarns escape from the propulsion fluid, the fluid passes through the sides of the slackened yarns and entangles the single yarns, resulting in mild entanglement. Unlike a turbulent nozzle, which applies a high-pressure jet to the nozzle space, which only has a gap through which the yarns can escape, a low-pressure jet used in an interlace nozzle is applied, thereby achieving mild entanglement.

[0050] To obtain such a composite false-twisted mixed yarn having a slight degree of entanglement, it is preferable to use the nozzle described above (hereinafter referred to as a "special interlace nozzle"), such as KF-JET manufactured by Heberlein.

[0051] The strength of the special interlace nozzle jet when blending at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns is preferably 0.1 MPa or more and 0.3 MPa or less. If the pressure is less than 0.1 MPa, the desired blending of the at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns will not be achieved, resulting in reduced blending, which may lead to separation of the two yarns or yarn breakage in subsequent processes, resulting in a lower quality woven or knitted fabric. If the pressure exceeds 0.3 MPa, sufficient blending will be achieved, but the at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns will be strongly entangled, resulting in a finer grained texture in the resulting woven or knitted fabric. A more preferred range is 0.15 MPa or more and 0.25 MPa or less.

[0052] Furthermore, when blending at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, the feed rate between each yarn and the special interlace nozzle is preferably 0.5% or more and 4.0% or less. If it is less than 0.5%, the desired blending of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns will not be achieved, resulting in a decrease in blending ability, which may lead to separation of the two yarns or yarn breakage in subsequent processes, resulting in a decrease in the quality of the resulting woven or knitted fabric. If it exceeds 4.0%, the feed rate will be too high relative to the nozzle jet, causing the at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns to slacken before and after the nozzle, resulting in flapping, leading to yarn breakage and friction with the guides before and after the nozzle, leading to nozzle and guide contamination. A more preferable range is 0.8% or more and 3.0% or less.

[0053] The twist direction of the false twisted composite blended yarn may be either S direction or Z direction, but the SZ direction is preferred in order to improve the grain quality of the woven or knitted fabric.

[0054] The composite false twisted blended yarn having the above-mentioned slight entanglement is a preferred embodiment because it exhibits the effects of the present invention more remarkably. Because the entanglement is slight, when a certain load is applied, some parts of the entanglement come undone.

[0055] The number of entanglements in the composite false twist mixed yarn of the present invention is preferably 2 to 45 entanglements / m under a load of 0.1 g / dtex, and 0 to 30 entanglements / m under a load of 0.5 g / dtex, more preferably 10 to 30 entanglements / m under a load of 0.1 g / dtex, and 0 to 20 entanglements / m under a load of 0.5 g / dtex. [Example]

[0056] [Fineness of highly oriented undrawn yarn and composite false twist blended yarn] The yarn is wound 80 times on a measuring machine (circumference 1.125 m) to form a ring, and the weight is measured to four decimal places on a balance. This process is repeated 10 times, and the average of the 10 weights is taken as P, and the yarn fineness is calculated using the following formula. Yarn fineness (dtex) = P × 100 × 1.11

[0057] [Tensile strength and elongation of composite false twist blended yarn] Measurements were made in accordance with JIS L1013 Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn Test Method (2010).

[0058] The gripping distance was 200 mm, the pulling speed was 200 mm / min, and a load-elongation curve was obtained using a tensile tester (Shimadzu Corporation). The load value at break was divided by the initial fineness to obtain the strength, and the elongation at break was divided by the initial sample length to obtain the elongation.

[0059] [Hot water shrinkage rate] The yarn is wound 10 times on a measuring machine (circumference 1.125 m) to form a ring, and a load of 1 / 30 g per 1 d (1.11 dtex) is applied to find the length X. The yarn is then immersed in boiling water in a free state for 30 minutes, then allowed to dry naturally, and a load of 1 / 30 g per 1 d (1.11 dtex) is again applied to find the length Y, which is then calculated using the following formula. When measuring the fineness of a thermoplastic multifilament yarn, the two yarns are wound separately before being mixed, and the measurement is carried out using the wound yarn. Hot water shrinkage rate (%) = [(XY) / X] x 100

[0060] [Difference in length of original yarns in composite false twist blended yarns (heat treatment)] Randomly sampled composite false-twisted blended yarns were wound 10 times on a measuring machine (circumference 1.125 m) to form a ring, and then treated in 98°C hot water for 30 minutes without applying a load. 20 blended yarns were sampled at regular intervals (5 cm based on the original yarn) from the treated blended yarn. The sampled blended yarns were disassembled and separated into single yarns of cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A and cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn B. The disassembled yarns were placed on a glass plate, a small amount of glycerin was added, and an initial load was applied to the other end to stretch the yarn so that it did not bend, and the yarn length was measured. The average length of 20 single yarns of cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A was L5, and the average length of 20 single yarns of cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn B was L6. The yarn length difference was calculated using the following formula. When using a thermoplastic multifilament yarn other than those mentioned above, the yarn length difference shall be calculated by taking the yarn length of the yarn dyed as the base color (the color most frequently used on the front side) as L5 and the yarn length of the other yarn as L6. Thread length difference (%)=[(L5-L6) / L6]×100 Initial load: 0.002g / dtex

[0061] [Number of entanglements in composite false twist blended yarn] One end of randomly sampled composite false twist blended yarn is fixed to a clamp 1.7 m above the floor and hung vertically, and an initial load is applied to the other 1.5 m end and left to stand for 2 minutes. The initial load is removed, and a load of 0.1 g / dtex or 0.5 g / dtex is attached and left to stand for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, it is excluded from the measurement. Visually check for intertwining points and mark the center of the intertwining points with a marker. The number of intertwining points within 1 m from the fixed end is counted and this is taken as the number of intertwining points. Initial load: 0.002g / dtex

[0062] [Number of open fibers and entanglement intervals for composite false twist blended yarn] One end of a randomly collected composite false twist blended yarn is fixed to a clamp 1.2 m above the floor and hung vertically, and an initial load is applied to the other 1 m end and left to stand for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, it is excluded from the measurement. The intertwining points are confirmed visually and the centers of the intertwining points are marked with a marker. The number (pieces) of spread parts and the length (mm) between the intertwining points are measured from the fixed end, and the intertwining spacing of 30 spread parts is measured. This process is repeated 10 times, and the average number of intertwining spacings for the 10 times is calculated. Initial load: 0.002g / dtex

[0063] [Number of intertwining decomposition threads] One end of the untwisted composite false twisted yarn taken randomly from the woven / knitted fabric is fixed to a clamp 1.7 m above the floor and hung vertically, and an initial load is applied to the other 1.5 m end and left to stand for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, it is excluded from the measurement. The intertwining points are confirmed visually and the center of the intertwining points is marked with a marker. The number of intertwining points within 1 m from the fixed end is counted and this is taken as the number of intertwining points. The load applied during untwisting / knitting is 0.3 g / detx. Initial load: 0.002g / dtex If the required sample volume cannot be collected, repeat the measurement until the total length reaches 1 m.

[0064] [Number of opened fibers and intertwining intervals] One end of the untwisted composite false twist blended yarn randomly collected from the woven / knitted fabric is fixed to a clamp 1.2 m above the floor and hung vertically, and an initial load is applied to the other 1 m end and left to stand for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, it is excluded from the measurement. The intertwining points are confirmed visually and the centers of the intertwining points are marked with a marker. The number of spread parts (pieces) and the length (mm) between the intertwining points are measured from the fixed end, and the intertwining spacing of 30 spread parts is measured. This process is repeated 10 times, and the average number of intertwining spacings for 10 times is calculated. The applied load during untwisting is 0.3 g / detx. Initial load: 0.002g / dtex If the specified amount of samples cannot be collected, the measurement is repeated until a total of 30 spreads are found.

[0065] [Degree of grain] The degree of the figured feel of the fabric was visually evaluated by 10 skilled experts using the following three-level rating system: Excellent and Good were considered acceptable. ◎: Has a kasuri-style grained texture and a strong gradation effect. 〇: Has a kasuri-style grained texture and a gradation effect. ×: Has a marbling-like grain and a weak gradation effect.

[0066] [Texture]: The softness was evaluated by 10 experts using the following four-level rating system, with ⊚ and ◯ representing pass. ◎: A texture that feels particularly soft when touched with the hand. ○: Feels soft when touched with the hand. △: A texture that feels slightly soft when touched with the hand. ×: The texture does not feel soft when touched with the hand.

[0067] [Example 1] A 90 dtex, 36-filament, cationic dyeable, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.018) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) (raw yarn A) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min and a 90 dtex, 48-filament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.036) (made of cationic non-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate) (raw yarn B) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min were false-twisted according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 under the conditions shown in Table 1. Each yarn (the yarn derived from yarn A is referred to as yarn A, and the yarn derived from yarn B is referred to as yarn B) was then entangled and mixed using a special interlace nozzle (KF-JET from Heberlein) to obtain a composite false-twisted mixed yarn.

[0068] Figure 1 is a conceptual diagram showing one example of a preferred method for producing a composite false-twisted mixed yarn of the present invention. First, cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 1, which will become yarn A, passes through guide 2, is fed by first feed roller 3, passes through first heater 4, and is draw-false-twisted and heat-set between first false twisting device 5 and third feed roller 6. Polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 11, which will become yarn B, is similarly processed, passes through guide 12, is fed by second feed roller 13, passes through first heater 4, and is draw-false-twisted and heat-set between third feed roller 6 and first false twisting device 5. The two processed yarns are false-twisted, fed to entanglement nozzle 7, and entangled and mixed, and then fed by fourth feed roller 8 as composite false-twisted mixed yarn 9, which is then taken up on take-up roller 10.

[0069] The number of entanglements in the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn under a load of 0.1 g / dtex was 42 / m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g / dtex was 25 / m. Of the 30 spread portions, 15 had an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 10 had an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 5 had an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more. The tensile strength was 2.13 cN / dtex, the elongation was 23.8%, the total fineness was 112.6 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 5.8%, and the yarn length difference was 2.3%. The crimp structure of the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn was 100%, and the yarn had false twist crimps overall.

[0070] Using the obtained composite false twist blended yarn as the warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 82 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 yarns / 2.54 cm. The obtained fabric was then subjected to a liquid flow relaxation treatment according to a conventional method, followed by drying and intermediate setting. The intermediate setting was performed at a temperature of 170°C. Thereafter, the obtained fabric was dyed using cationic dye Cation Blue GRLH 200% at a temperature of 100°C for 30 minutes, and subjected to a finish setting according to a conventional method. The finish setting was performed at a temperature of 160°C. The number of entanglements of the resolved yarns in the obtained fabric was 31 / m, and of 30 spread portions, the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm was 15, the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm was 10, and the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more was 5. The flecked feel was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1, and the result was that the obtained plain weave fabric had a kasuri-style flecked feel, with a surface texture that had a strong gradation effect, and the desired flecked feel was obtained.

[0071] [Example 2] A 90 dtex, 72-filament, cationic dyeable, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.017) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) (raw yarn A) was produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min, and a 90 dtex, 48-filament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.042) (cationic non-dyeable, side-by-side (polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn) (raw yarn B) was produced at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min. The yarns were false-twisted to impart a thick-thin pattern according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 2 and the conditions shown in Table 1. Each yarn (the yarn derived from yarn A is referred to as yarn A, and the yarn derived from yarn B is referred to as yarn B) was then entangled and mixed using a special interlace nozzle (KF-JET from Heberlein) to obtain a composite false-twisted mixed yarn.

[0072] 2 is a conceptual diagram showing an example of a preferred method for producing a composite false-twist blended yarn of the present invention. First, cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 1 (raw yarn A), which becomes yarn A, passes through guide 2 and is fed by first feed roller 3. It is drawn via first hot pin 101 between third feed roller 102 to form thick and thin patterns, passes through first heater 4, and is draw-false-twisted and heat-set via first false twisting device 5 between fifth feed roller 103. Polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 11 (raw yarn B), which becomes yarn B, is similarly processed, passes through guide 12 and is fed by second feed roller 13. It is drawn via second hot pin 105 between fourth feed roller 106 to form thick and thin patterns, passes through first heater 4, and is draw-false-twisted and heat-set via first false twisting device 5 between fifth feed roller 103. The two processed yarns are subjected to a false twisting process, then fed to an entanglement nozzle 7, where they are subjected to an entanglement / mixing process, and then sent out as a composite false twisted mixed yarn 9 by a sixth feed roller 104 and taken up by a take-up roller 10.

[0073] The number of entanglements in the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn under a load of 0.1 g / dtex was 27 / m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g / dtex was 13 / m. Of the 30 spread regions, 12 had an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 10 had an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 8 had an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more. The tensile strength was 2.01 cN / dtex, the elongation was 25.6%, the total fineness was 110.3 dtex, the hot water shrinkage rate was 4.8%, and the yarn length difference was 2.5%. The crimp structure of the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn was 100%, and it had false twist crimps overall.

[0074] The resulting composite false twist blended yarn was used at a blending ratio of 100% to produce a plain knit circular knit fabric using a 28G circular knitting machine with 42 wales / 2.54 cm and 73 courses / 2.54 cm.

[0075] Next, the obtained circular knitted fabric was subjected to a liquid flow relaxation treatment according to a conventional method, followed by drying and intermediate setting. The intermediate setting conditions were a temperature of 170°C. Thereafter, the obtained circular knitted fabric was dyed using cationic dye Cation Blue GRLH 200% at a temperature of 100°C for 30 minutes and dried according to a conventional method. The number of entanglements of the resolved yarns of the obtained knitted fabric was 18 / m. Of 30 spread portions, the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm was 12, the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm was 11, and the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more was 9. The obtained circular knitted fabric had a kasuri-style heathered feel, and a surface texture with a gradation effect, thereby achieving the desired heathered feel. FIG. 4 is a photograph substituting for a drawing showing the surface of the above circular knitted fabric. As shown in Figure 4, three colors are obtained: two colors due to the shades of dye in the cationic dyed thread A and one undyed color in the thread B. Furthermore, by appropriately controlling the entanglement spacing between threads A and B, a unique kasuri-style mottled pattern is obtained, and the three colors appear to transition in a gradation.

[0076] [Example 3] A 56-dtex, 36-filament, cationic dyeable, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.016) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) (raw yarn A) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min, and a 90-dtex, 48-filament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.042) (cationic non-dyeable, side-by-side (polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn) (raw yarn B) produced at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min were false-twisted according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 3 under the conditions shown in Table 1. Each yarn (the yarn derived from yarn A is referred to as yarn A, and the yarn derived from yarn B is referred to as yarn B) was then entangled and mixed using a special interlace nozzle (KF-JET from Heberlein) to obtain a composite false-twisted mixed yarn.

[0077] 3 is a conceptual diagram showing an example of a preferred method for producing a composite false-twisted mixed yarn of the present invention. First, cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 1 (raw yarn A), which becomes yarn A, passes through guide 2, is fed by first feed roller 3, passes through first heater 4, and is draw-false-twisted and heat-set between the first false twisting device 5 and third feed roller 201. The first false twisting device 5 undergoes an S-false-twist treatment. The polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 11 (raw yarn B), which becomes yarn B, is similarly processed, passes through guide 12, is fed by second feed roller 13, passes through second heater 203, is draw-false-twisted and heat-set between the second false twisting device 204 and fourth feed roller 205, and is then Z-false-twisted. The two processed yarns are fed to an entanglement nozzle 7, where they are entangled and mixed, and then fed by fifth feed roller 202 as a composite false-twisted mixed yarn 9, which is then taken up by take-up roller 10.

[0078] The number of entanglements in the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn under a load of 0.1 g / dtex was 14 / m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g / dtex was 6 / m. Of the 30 spread portions, 10 had an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 10 had an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 10 had an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more. The tensile strength was 2.11 cN / dtex, the elongation was 22.6%, the total fineness was 89.4 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 5.2%, and the yarn length difference was 2.8%. The crimp structure of the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn was 100%, and the yarn had false twist crimps overall.

[0079] The resulting composite false twist blended yarn was used at a blending ratio of 100% to produce a plain knit circular knit fabric using a 28G circular knitting machine with 48 wales / 2.54 cm and 75 courses / 2.54 cm.

[0080] Next, the obtained circular knitted fabric was subjected to a liquid flow relaxation treatment according to a conventional method, followed by drying and intermediate setting. The intermediate setting conditions were a temperature of 170°C. Thereafter, the obtained circular knitted fabric was dyed using cationic dye Cation Blue GRLH 200% at a temperature of 100°C for 30 minutes, and dried according to a conventional method. The number of entanglements of the resolved yarns of the obtained knitted fabric was 10 / m, and of 30 spread portions, there were 11 spread portions with an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 9 spread portions with an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 10 spread portions with an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more. The obtained circular knitted fabric had a kasuri-style heathered feel and a surface texture with a gradation effect, and the desired heathered feel was obtained.

[0081] [Comparative Example 1] A 90 dtex, 36-filament, cationic dyeable, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.018) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) (raw yarn A) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min, and a 90 dtex, 48-filament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.036) (made of cationic non-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate) (raw yarn B) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min, were false-twisted according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 under the conditions shown in Table 1, and each yarn (the yarn derived from yarn A is referred to as yarn A, and the yarn derived from yarn B is referred to as yarn B) was entangled and mixed using an interlace nozzle to obtain a composite false-twisted mixed yarn.

[0082] The interlace nozzle is a nozzle that blows a jet of air from one direction transverse to the running direction of the yarn, thereby interlacing the yarn. article A conventional interlaced nozzle was used, in which the nozzle crosses the jet.

[0083] The number of entanglements in the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn under a load of 0.1 g / dtex was 105 / m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g / dtex was 103 / m. Of the 30 spread regions, 30 had an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 0 had an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 0 had an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more. The tensile strength was 2.16 cN / dtex, the elongation was 23.4%, the total fineness was 113.2 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 5.6%, and the yarn length difference was 2.3%. The crimp structure of the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn was 100%, and it had false twist crimps overall.

[0084] Using the obtained mixed yarn for the warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 82 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 yarns / 2.54 cm, and subjected to the processing step under the same conditions as in Example 1, and the heathered feel was evaluated by the same method as in Example 1. The number of entanglements of the resolved yarns of the obtained woven fabric was 104 yarns / m, and among 30 spread portions, the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm was 30, the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm was 0, and the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more was 0. The obtained plain woven fabric had a marbled heathered feel, and the surface texture had a weak gradation effect, so the desired heathered feel was not obtained.

[0085] Comparative Example 2 A 90 dtex, 72 filament, cationic dyeable polyester multifilament, highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.017) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) (raw yarn A) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min, and a 90 dtex, 48 filament, polyester multifilament, highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.042) (cationic non-dyeable polyester side-by-side (polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament, highly oriented, undrawn yarn) (raw yarn B) produced at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min were false-twisted to impart thick-thin variations according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 2 and under the conditions shown in Table 1, and each yarn (the yarn derived from yarn A is referred to as yarn A, and the yarn derived from yarn B is referred to as yarn B) was subjected to an entangled blending process using the same interlace nozzle as used in Comparative Example 1, to obtain a composite false-twisted blended yarn.

[0086] The number of entanglements in the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn under a load of 0.1 g / dtex was 101 / m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g / dtex was 100 / m. Of the 30 spread portions, 30 had an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 0 had an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 0 had an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more. The tensile strength was 2.04 cN / dtex, the elongation was 25.9%, the total fineness was 110.6 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 4.7%, and the yarn length difference was 2.3%. The crimp structure of the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn was 100%, and it had false twist crimps overall.

[0087] The obtained composite false twist blended yarn was used at a blending ratio of 100% to produce a plain knitted fabric with 42 wales / 2.54 cm and 73 courses / 2.54 cm using a 28G circular knitting machine. The fabric was processed under the same conditions as in Example 2 and evaluated for heathered feel using the same method as in Example 1. The number of entanglements in the resolved yarns of the obtained knitted fabric was 100 / m, and of 30 spread portions, 30 had an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 0 had an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 0 had an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more. The obtained circular knitted fabric had a marbled heathered feel and a surface texture with a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered feel was not obtained. Figure 5 is a photograph substituting a drawing showing the surface of the circular knitted fabric. As shown in Figure 5, three colors were obtained: two colors due to the shades of dye in the cationic dyed yarn A and one undyed color in the yarn B. However, because the entanglement interval between yarns A and B was not properly controlled, the transition between shades was short, resulting in a marbled, mottled texture, and the unique, kasuri-style mottled texture that was the target of the present invention was not obtained.

[0088] Comparative Example 3 A 56-dtex, 36-filament, cationic dyeable, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.016) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) (raw yarn A) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min, and a 90-dtex, 48-filament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.042) (cationic non-dyeable, polyester side-by-side (polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester yarn) (raw yarn B) produced at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min were false-twisted according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 3 under the conditions shown in Table 1, and each yarn (the yarn derived from yarn A is referred to as yarn A, and the yarn derived from yarn B is referred to as yarn B) was blended using a Taslan nozzle to obtain a composite false-twisted blended yarn.

[0089] The obtained composite false-twisted blended yarn was entangled throughout the yarn using a Taslan nozzle, forming fine loops, making it impossible to measure the number of entanglements, the number of spread portions, and the entanglement spacing. The tensile strength was 2.02 cN / dtex, the elongation was 22.1%, the total fineness was 89.8 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 5.3%, and the yarn length difference was 2.2%. The crimp structure of the obtained composite false-twisted blended yarn was 100%, and it had false-twist crimps overall.

[0090] The obtained composite false twist blended yarn was used at a blending ratio of 100% to produce a plain knit circular knitted fabric with 48 wales / 2.54 cm and 75 courses / 2.54 cm using a 28G circular knitting machine, and the fabric was processed under the same conditions as in Example 2, and the heathered feel was evaluated using the same method as in Example 1. The obtained knitted fabric yarn was entangled as a whole using a Taslan nozzle, forming fine loops, and it was not possible to measure the number of entanglements, the number of spread portions, and the entanglement spacing. The obtained circular knitted fabric had a marbled heathered feel and a surface texture with a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered feel was not obtained.

[0091] Comparative Example 4 A 90 dtex, 36-filament, cationic dyeable, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.018) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) (raw yarn A) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min and a 90 dtex, 48-filament, highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.036) (made of cationic non-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate) (raw yarn B) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min were false-twisted according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 under the conditions shown in Table 1. Each yarn (the yarn derived from yarn A is referred to as yarn A, and the yarn derived from yarn B is referred to as yarn B) was then entangled and mixed using a special interlace nozzle (KF-JET from Heberlein) to obtain an SZ composite false-twisted mixed yarn.

[0092] The number of entanglements in the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn under a load of 0.1 g / dtex was 53 / m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g / dtex was 35 / m. Of the 30 spread portions, 21 had an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 9 had an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 0 had an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more. The tensile strength was 2.15 cN / dtex, the elongation was 23.3%, the total fineness was 112.0 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 5.5%, and the yarn length difference was 2.6%. The crimp structure of the obtained composite false twist mixed yarn was 100%, and it had false twist crimps overall.

[0093] Using the obtained composite false twist blended yarn for the warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 82 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 yarns / 2.54 cm, and subjected to the processing step under the same conditions as in Example 1, and the heathered feel was evaluated by the same method as in Example 1. The number of entanglements of the resolved yarns of the obtained woven fabric was 42 / m, and of 30 spread portions, the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm was 21, the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm was 9, and the number of spread portions having an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more was 0. The obtained plain woven fabric had a marbled heathered feel, and the surface texture had a weak gradation effect, so the desired heathered feel was not obtained.

[0094] [Table 1]

[0095] [Table 2] [Explanation of symbols]

[0096] 1: Cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 2: Guide 3: First feed roller 4: First heater 5: First false twisting tool 6: Third feed roller 7: Entangling nozzle 8: Fourth feed roller 9: Composite false twist blended yarn 10: Winding roller 11: Polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 12: Guide 13: Second feed roller 101: First heat pin 102: Third feed roller 103: Fifth feed roller 104: Sixth feed roller 105: Second heat pin 106: Fourth feed roller 201: Third feed roller 202: Fifth feed roller 203: Second heater 204: Second false twisting tool 205: Fourth feed roller

Claims

1. A composite false twist mixed yarn which is composed of at least two kinds of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, and which has a false twist crimp as a whole, and in which, among 30 spread portions, there is 1 to 15 spread portions having an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, there is 1 to 15 spread portions having an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and there is 1 to 10 spread portions having an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more.

2. 2. The composite false twist blended yarn according to claim 1, wherein the thermoplastic multifilament yarn comprises a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A and a cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn B, and the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A accounts for 20% by mass or more and 80% by mass or less.

3. 3. The composite false twist blended yarn according to claim 1, wherein at least one of said thermoplastic multifilament yarns is a thermoplastic multifilament yarn having latent crimping properties.

4. The composite false twist blended yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns each have uneven thickness in the fiber axis direction, the thick portions of the respective yarns are out of phase with each other, the yarn structure has a partially reversible yarn length difference, and the substantial yarn length difference between the yarns is 3% or less.

5. 5. The composite false twist blended yarn according to claim 1, wherein the number of entanglements under a load of 0.1 g / dtex is 2 or more and 45 or less / m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g / dtex is 0 or more and 30 or less / m.

6. A woven or knitted fabric, at least part of which uses the composite false twist blended yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

7. A woven or knitted fabric comprising, at least in a part thereof, a composite false twist mixed yarn which is composed of at least two kinds of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, which has false twist crimp as a whole, and which has 1 to 15 spread portions having an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, among 30 spread portions, 1 to 15 spread portions having an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 1 to 10 spread portions having an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more.

8. 8. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 6, wherein the number of entanglements in the composite false twist blended yarn is 1 or more / m and 35 or less / m.

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