jacket

Abstract

To provide an upper garment in which the lower collar rolls neatly without being turned up and the overall shape has a firm appearance like a tailored garment. [Solution] In the upper garment of the present invention, when the lower collar (15) is unfolded around the return line (35) so that the lower collar (15) and the front body (11) are on the same plane, the return end (39) protrudes outward, and the lower end side of the collar edge (37) of the lower collar (15) approaches the return line (35) and reaches the return end (39).

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a suit jacket. [Background technology]

[0002] Traditionally, men's suit jackets, in particular, have used interlinings or padding between the outer and inner linings to maintain the overall shape and facilitate sewing. Interlinings are used on the inside of the outer fabric, primarily in the front of the jacket, and are broadly divided into flannel interlinings, which are sewn to the fabric, and fusible interlinings, which are glued to the fabric. Flannel interlinings are typically made from animal hair, while fusible interlinings are attached using heat from a press or iron. Fusible interlinings are typically simpler and less time-consuming, allowing for relatively inexpensive jacket production. While tailoring using flannel interlinings requires more time and money than fusible interlinings, they are more cost-effective and create a more three-dimensional overall look, and the lack of adhesive makes them softer and more comfortable to wear. The process of attaching interlinings to the outer fabric is called "interlining." Regardless of the interlining process, interlinings contribute to the jacket's shape retention, making them an essential step in tailoring, which demands a high-quality, well-made garment.

[0003] In recent years, "unconstructed jackets" have appeared, which can be worn relatively coolly even in the summer, as described in Patent Document 1. The unconstructed jacket described in Patent Document 1 is an invention that maintains a good shape and appearance without using any interlining or shoulder pads. "Unconstructed" is an abbreviation for "un-constructed."

[0004] However, the unconstructed jacket described in Patent Document 1 does not use interlining in the front body, so when worn continuously, the bottom edge of the lower collar, near where the turn-up ends, tends to roll up, which has an effect on the entire jacket, causing problems such as the front line (front hem) flipping up and the formation of so-called sash wrinkles on the shoulders. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0005] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2009-24267 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0006] To provide an upper garment in which the lower collar rolls neatly without the end of the collar turning up, and the overall shape has a firm appearance like a tailored garment. [Means for solving the problem]

[0007] In order to solve the above problems, the first aspect of the present invention is an upper garment characterized in that when the lower collar is unfolded around the turn-back line so that the lower collar and the front body are on the same plane, the end of the turn-back protrudes outward, and the lower end of the collar edge of the lower collar approaches the turn-back line and reaches the end of the turn-back as if it were approaching the turn-back line. [Effects of the Invention]

[0008] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide an upper garment in which the lower collar rolls neatly without the end of the collar turning up, and the overall shape has a solid appearance like a tailored garment. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0009] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 is a perspective view of an upper garment according to the present embodiment. [Figure 2] FIG. 2 is a partial front view of the upper garment according to the present embodiment. [Figure 3] This is a diagram showing the state in which the lower collar has been lifted from the state in Figure 2, and the lower collar and front body are positioned on the same plane. [Figure 4] FIG. 10 is a diagram showing a pattern for making the front body and lower collar of the top according to this embodiment. [Figure 5]FIG. 5 is an enlarged view of part A in FIG. [Figure 6] FIG. 10 is a diagram showing a pattern for making the front body and lower collar of a conventional jacket. [Figure 7] FIG. 7 is an enlarged view of part A in FIG. 6. [Figure 8] Figure 8(a) is an enlarged view corresponding to the portion of Figure 7 of the completed jacket sewn from the pattern of Figure 6, showing the state in which the lower collar has been lifted and positioned on the same plane as the front body, and Figure 8(b) shows the state in which the lower collar has been folded from the state in Figure 8(a) around the return line. [Figure 9] 9(a) is an enlarged view of part B in FIG. 4, and FIG. 9(b) is an enlarged view of part B in FIG. [Figure 10] FIG. 10 is a diagram showing a pattern for making the front body and lower collar of a conventional jacket. [Figure 11] FIG. 10 is a diagram showing a pattern for making the front body and lower collar of the top according to this embodiment. [Figure 12] 10 and 11 are superimposed to show the difference. [Figure 13] FIG. 10 is a diagram showing a pattern for making the back body of a conventional jacket. [Figure 14] FIG. 10 is a diagram showing a pattern for making the back body of the top according to the present embodiment. [Figure 15] This is a diagram showing the outer fabric of the front body and lower collar obtained from the pattern in Figure 4. [Figure 16] 16(a) is a diagram showing the facing portion obtained from the pattern of FIG. 4, and FIG. 16(b) is a diagram showing the lining of the front body obtained from the pattern of FIG. [Figure 17] FIG. 10 is a perspective view of an upper garment according to another embodiment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. In the following description of the embodiments, identical or similar parts are designated by identical or similar reference numerals. For example, to explain the embodiments of the present invention, the drawings show a pattern for each part constituting a garment, the parts obtained by cutting fabric according to the pattern, and the garment obtained by sewing the parts together. Corresponding parts in the pattern, the parts of the garment, and the finished garment are designated by identical or similar reference numerals. However, it should be noted that the drawings are schematic, and the relationship between thickness and planar dimensions, the size ratios of each component, and the like may differ from the actual figures. Therefore, specific thicknesses, dimensions, and the like should be determined in a more flexible manner, taking into account the spirit of the technical concept that can be understood from the following description. Furthermore, it goes without saying that the drawings may include parts with different dimensional relationships and ratios.

[0011] Furthermore, the embodiments described below are merely examples of methods for embodying the technical concept of the present invention, and the technical concept of the present invention does not limit the materials, shapes, structures, arrangements, etc. of component parts or the steps of methods to those described below. The technical concept of the present invention is not limited to the content described in the embodiments, and various modifications may be made within the technical scope defined by the claims. Furthermore, the definitions of directions such as up and down in the following description are merely for the convenience of explanation and do not limit the technical concept of the present invention. For example, if an object is rotated 90 degrees and observed, "up" and "down" are converted to "left" and "right" and read as such, and of course, if an object is rotated 180 degrees and observed, "up" and "down" and "left" and "right" are read in reverse.

[0012] The completed state of the top 1 according to this embodiment is shown in Fig. 1. The portion of the top 1 according to this embodiment, centered on the front body 11 and the lower collar 15, is shown in Fig. 2. As shown in Fig. 3, when the lower collar 15 of the top 1 according to this embodiment is unfolded around the return line 35 so that the lower collar 15 and the front body 11 are on the same plane, the return end 39 protrudes outward, and the lower end side of the collar edge 37 of the lower collar 15 reaches the return end 39 as if it were approaching the return line 35.

[0013] As shown in Fig. 1, the main components of the top 1 according to this embodiment, on the left side of the wearer's body when worn, are a front body 11 that forms most of the front of the left side of the top 1, a waistband 27 connected to the front body 11, a back body 13 connected to the front body 11 via the waistband 27, sleeves 17 connected to the front body 11, the waistband 27, and the back body 13, and a lower collar 15 that is continuous with the front body 11. The front body 11 is illustrated as having a chest pocket 20 in the wearer's chest area, a flap-type waist pocket 23 slightly above the wearer's waist, a tuck 21 above the waist pocket 23, and a first buttonhole 31 and a second buttonhole 32 from top to bottom where it joins with the front body 12 on the right side of the body. The seam line at the shoulder between the front body 11 and the back body 13 is a shoulder line 25. The boundary between the front body 11 and the lower collar 15 is a turn-back line 35, which is also the folding point of the lower collar 15. Opposite the turn-back line 35 of the lower collar 15 is a collar edge 37, which becomes the end of the lower collar 15. The point where the turn-back line 35 of the lower collar 15 intersects with the collar edge 37 is the turn-back end 39. On the front body 11, the edge below the turn-back end 39 is the front hem 29, also called the front line. The lower collar 15 is connected to the lower collar 16 of the right half of the body via the upper collar 19, and the seam line between the lower collar 15 and the upper collar 19 becomes the gorge line 33.

[0014] As shown in FIG. 1 , the main components of the top 1 according to this embodiment, on the right side of the wearer's body when worn, are a front body 12 that constitutes most of the front of the right side of the top 1, a waistband 28 connected to the front body 12, a back body 14 connected to the front body 12 via the waistband 28, sleeves 18 connected to the front body 12, the waistband 28, and the back body 14, and a lower collar 16 that is continuous with the front body 12. The front body 12 is illustrated as having a flap-type waist pocket 24 located slightly above the wearer's waist and a tuck 22 above the waist pocket 24. Although not shown, the front body 12 has a first button and a second button at the joining portion with the front body 11 on the left side of the body, at positions corresponding to the first buttonhole 31 and the second buttonhole 32. The seam line at the shoulder between the front body 12 and the back body 14 is a shoulder line 26. The boundary between the front body 12 and the lower collar 16 is a turn line 36, which is also the folding point of the lower collar 16. Opposite the turn line 36 of the lower collar 16 is a collar edge 38, which becomes the end of the lower collar 16. Although not shown in the figure, the point where the turn line 36 of the lower collar 16 intersects with the collar edge 38 is the end of the turn. On the front body 12, the edge below the end of the turn of the lower collar 16 is the front hem 30. The lower collar 16 is connected to the lower collar 15 of the left half via the upper collar 19, and the seam line between the lower collar 16 and the upper collar 19 becomes the gorge line 34. As shown in FIG. 1 , the front of the jacket 1 according to this embodiment is configured to be substantially symmetrical about the vertical centerline of the jacket 1, except that the left front body 11 and the right front body 12 each have different components. Specifically, the only differences between the left front body 11 and the right front body 12 are that only the front body 11 has a chest pocket, and that the front body 11 has two buttonholes, while the front body 12 has buttons at positions corresponding to the buttonholes on the front body 11. Furthermore, when the jacket 1 is buttoned, the right front body 12 is positioned closer to the wearer (this is commonly referred to as "right front"). That is, when the jacket 1 is buttoned, the left front body 11 of the jacket 1 is positioned further outward. Therefore, the following description of the jacket 1 according to this embodiment will focus on the left side, which has the front body 11 positioned further outward.

[0015] As shown in FIG. 2, the left front side of the jacket 1 according to this embodiment can be described as having a front body 11 and a lower collar 15 continuous with the front body 11 as its main components. The front body 11 is illustrated as having a chest pocket 20, a tuck 21, a first buttonhole 31, and a second buttonhole 32. In FIG. 1, a flap-type waist pocket 23 is located slightly above the wearer's waist and is described as a component located below the tuck 21. However, for simplicity's sake, this is omitted in FIG. 2, and the location of the waist pocket 23 in FIG. 1 is represented by a horizontal line connecting to the lower end of the tuck 21. In FIG. 2, the seam line with the waistband 27 in FIG. 1 is represented by seam line 43, and the waistband 27 in FIG. 1 is not shown. In FIG. 2, the seam line with the sleeve 17 in FIG. 1 is represented by seam line 41, and the sleeve 17 in FIG. 1 is not shown. In Figure 2, the boundary between the front body 11 and the lower collar 15 is a turn-back line 35, which is also the folding portion of the lower collar 15. Opposite the turn-back line 35 of the lower collar 15 is a collar edge 37. The point where the turn-back line 35 of the lower collar 15 intersects with the collar edge 37 is the turn-back end 39. The edge of the front body 11 below the turn-back end 39 is the front hem 29. In Figure 2, the upper collar 19 in Figure 1, which is connected to the lower collar 15, is not shown. In Figure 2, the first buttonhole 31 is positioned so that it partially overlaps the lower collar 15, but this is not necessarily the case. In the jacket 1 according to this embodiment, as shown in Figure 2, the lower end side of the collar edge 37 of the lower collar 15 asymptotically approaches the turn-back line 35 and reaches the turn-back end 39. The lower end of the collar edge 37 is curved, and the lower collar 15 has a tapered shape at the bottom.

[0016] As shown in Fig. 3, in the top 1 according to this embodiment, when the lower collar 15 is unfolded around the return line 35 so that the lower collar 15 and the front body 11 are on the same plane, the return end 39 protrudes outward, and the lower end side of the collar edge 37 of the lower collar 15 approaches the return line 35 and reaches the return end 39. Fig. 3 is a view from the same perspective as Fig. 2, and shows the lower collar 15, which is bent diagonally downward around the return line 35 in Fig. 2, unfolded diagonally upward around the return line 35, and moved so that the lower collar 15 and the front body 11 are on the same plane. In Figure 3, as in Figure 2, the lower end of collar edge 37 of lower collar 15 approaches turn line 35 and reaches turn end 39, and turn end 39 protrudes slightly outward, that is, toward the right half of jacket 1. In Figure 3, turn end 39 is located closer to the right half of jacket 1 than lower collar 15.

[0017] FIG. 4 illustrates an example of a pattern for making the front bodice 11 and undercollar 15 of the jacket 1 according to this embodiment. The front bodice 11 and undercollar 15 can be made by sewing together three components: a front fabric, a facing, and a lining, each made of the same fabric as the front fabric. In FIG. 4, the seam allowance line 100k is represented by a dashed line, and the solid lines just inside the seam allowance line 100k indicate the finished line. For convenience, the seam allowance lines in the drawings herein are set outside the finished line at approximately the same width, but they do not necessarily have to be the same width if considerations such as sewing are taken into account. To make the front bodice 11 and undercollar 15 using the pattern shown in FIG. 4, for example, the front surface of the front fabric is placed toward you as you face FIG. 4, the grain of the front fabric is aligned with the grain line of the pattern (not shown), and the fabric is cut along the seam allowance line 100k in FIG. 4, resulting in the front fabric shown in FIG. 15. In the outer fabric, the front body 11 and the lower collar 15 are integrally formed from the same fabric.

[0018] The facing refers to the same portion as the outer fabric seen on the back of the body. For example, by referring to the pattern in Figure 4, the back side of a fabric similar to the outer fabric can be placed toward the front as viewed in Figure 4, resulting in the fabric shown in Figure 16(a). The facing includes the portion that appears as the "front" of the lower collar 15 of the top 1 when the lower collar 15 is folded toward the front body 11 around the return line 35, as shown in Figures 1 and 2. Therefore, the range of the facing is arbitrary, as long as it can form the lower collar 15 and further configure the back side of the front body 11 to any desired extent, and is also within the scope of aesthetic design. Figure 16(a) shows merely an example of the facings used to make the front body 11 and lower collar 15 of the top 1 of this embodiment.

[0019] The lining for making the front bodice 11 and undercollar 15 of the top 1 of this embodiment can be obtained, for example, by referring to the pattern in FIG. 4 and turning the back side of the lining toward the front as viewed in FIG. 4, as shown in FIG. 16(b). The extent of the lining can be determined as long as it is balanced with the facing and can be any desired extent on the back side of the front bodice 11. This is also within the scope of aesthetic design, and is arbitrary. The lining shown in FIG. 16(b) is merely an example. By sewing together the outer fabric shown in FIG. 15 and the facing and lining shown in FIG. 16, the front bodice 11 and undercollar 15 are produced according to the finished line in FIG. 4, resulting in the front bodice 11 and undercollar 15 shown in FIGS. 1 to 3. These are then sewn together with other components to complete the top 1 shown in FIG. 1. No interlining or padding is used in the production of the front bodice 11 and undercollar 15. By making the outer fabric, facing, and lining shown in Figures 15 and 16, it can be seen that the front body 11 and lower collar 15 are not made up of separate components connected together, but are formed as a single unit.

[0020] FIG. 4 shows patterns for making the front body 11 and the lower collar 15, with the numerals corresponding to the symbols shown in FIGS. 1 to 3. That is, the pattern for the front body 11 shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 is the front body 11k shown in FIG. 4. Similarly, the patterns for the lower collar 15 shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 are the lower collars 15k shown in FIG. 4. In this specification, names corresponding to the names of the parts of the pattern in the finished sewn state are actively used. Also, in FIGS. 4 to 7 and 9 to 14, which are diagrams of the patterns, all symbols have a "k" suffix to indicate the parts of the pattern. Therefore, in this specification, the notation combining "the name of each part in the finished state" and "a symbol ending in 'k'" indicates the corresponding part in the pattern for making each part in the finished state.

[0021] As shown in FIG. 4, the pattern for making the front body 11 and the lower collar 15 is composed of a front body 11k and a lower collar 15k. The front body 11k is illustrated as a component having a chest pocket 20k, a tuck 21k, a first buttonhole 31k, and a second buttonhole 32k. In FIG. 1, the front body 11k is illustrated as a component having a waist pocket 23 located slightly above the wearer's waist and below the tuck 21. While this is omitted in FIG. 4 for simplicity, the location where the waist pocket 23 in FIG. 1 will be located is represented by a slit 45k connected to the lower end of the tuck 21k. In FIG. 4, the seam lines 43ak and 43bk indicate the positions where the seam lines with the waistband 27 in FIG. 1 should be. Also, in FIG. 4, the seam line with the sleeve 17 in FIG. 1 should be indicated by a seam line 41k. In Figures 4 and 5, the boundary between the front body 11k and the lower collar 15k is a turn-back line 35k, which is also the folding point of the lower collar 15k. Opposite the turn-back line 35k of the lower collar 15k is a collar edge 37k. The point where the turn-back line 35k of the lower collar 15k intersects with the collar edge 37k is the turn-back end 39k. The edge below the turn-back end 39k is the front hem 29k. The line of the lower collar 15k that should be the connecting part with the upper collar 19 in Figure 1 is the gorge line 33k. In Figures 4 and 5, the first buttonhole 31k is positioned so that it partially overlaps the lower collar 15k, but this is not necessarily the case. As shown in Figure 4, the lower end of collar edge 37k of lower collar 15k approaches turn line 35k and reaches turn end 39k. The lower end of collar edge 37k is curved, giving lower collar 15k a narrowed shape. Turn end 39k protrudes slightly outward, toward the right half of jacket 1 in Figure 1. Turn end 39k is located closer to the right half of jacket 1 in Figure 1 than lower collar 15k.

[0022] As shown in Fig. 4, shoulder line 25fk of front body 11k corresponds to shoulder line 25bk shown in Fig. 14, which illustrates an example of a pattern for back body 13 of top 1 in Fig. 1, and when front body 11 obtained from the pattern in Fig. 4 and back body 13 obtained from the pattern in Fig. 14 are sewn together, shoulder line 25 as shown in Fig. 1 appears in the shoulder portion of top 1. The angle that shoulder line 25fk shown in Fig. 4 makes with the grain line will be described later in comparison with the prior art.

[0023] The chest pocket 20k shown in Fig. 4 shows the formation position of the chest pocket 20 shown in Figs. 1 to 3. The tuck 21k shown in Fig. 4 is represented by three vertical lines and one horizontal line extending in a substantially vertical direction converging at a single point at the top end, and indicates that this is the position where the tuck 21 shown in Figs. 1 to 3 will be formed by folding the vertical lines in a valley fold with the center line of the vertical lines as the valley side and sewing the remaining two vertical lines together. The grain line of the ground in the pattern in Fig. 4 is parallel to the center line of the three vertical lines of the tuck 21k.

[0024] For comparison, FIGS. 6 and 7 show examples of patterns for making the front bodice and undercollar of a conventional jacket. As shown in FIGS. 6 and 7, the patterns for making the front bodice and undercollar of a conventional jacket consist of a front bodice 61k and undercollar 65k. The front bodice 61k is illustrated as a component having a breast pocket 70k, a tuck 71k, a first buttonhole 81k, and a second buttonhole 82k. A slit 95k connected to the bottom end of the tuck 71k defines the location of various pockets, such as flaps. In FIG. 6, seam lines 93ak and 93bk indicate the positions of the seams between the waistband and the conventional jacket. Also in FIG. 6, seam line 91k indicates the positions of the seams between the sleeves and the conventional jacket. In Figures 6 and 7, the boundary between the front body 61k and the lower collar 65k is a turn-back line 85k, which also serves as the folding portion of the lower collar 65k. Opposite the turn-back line 85k of the lower collar 65k is a collar edge 87k. The point where the turn-back line 85k of the lower collar 65k intersects with the collar edge 87k is a turn-back end 89k. The edge below the turn-back end 89k is the front hem 79k. The line of the lower collar 65k that should connect to the upper collar of a conventional jacket is a gorge line 83k. As shown in Figures 6 and 7, when the lower collar 65k and the front body 61k are arranged on the same plane, the turn-back end 89k is recessed inward, rather than protruding outward like the turn-back end 39k shown in Figure 4. Also, as shown in Figures 6 and 7, the collar end 87k does not reach the return end 89k so as to asymptotically approach the return line 85k.

[0025] As shown in Figure 6, shoulder line 75fk ​​of front body 61k corresponds to shoulder line 75bk shown on back body 63k of a conventional jacket shown in Figure 13, which is also a pattern drawing, and when the front body obtained from the pattern in Figure 6 and the back body obtained from the pattern in Figure 13 are sewn together, the shoulder line of the conventional jacket is formed.

[0026] Chest pocket 70k shown in Fig. 6, like chest pocket 20k in Fig. 4, shows the position where a chest pocket in a conventional jacket is formed. Tuck 71k shown in Fig. 6 is represented by three vertical lines and one horizontal line extending in a substantially vertical direction that converge at a single point at the top, like tuck 21k in Fig. 4, but this shows that the tuck in a conventional jacket is formed by folding the fabric in a valley fold with the center line of the vertical lines as the valley side, and then sewing the remaining two vertical lines together. The grain line of the ground in the pattern in Fig. 6 is parallel to the center line of the three vertical lines of tuck 71k.

[0027] Like the front body 11 and under collar 15 of the top 1 according to this embodiment, the front body 61 and under collar 65 of the conventional jacket shown in FIG. 8 can be produced by sewing together three components: a front fabric, a facing made of the same fabric as the front fabric, and a lining. As shown in FIG. 8, the front body 61 and under collar 65 of the conventional jacket are bounded by a turn-back line 85, which also serves as the folded portion of the lower collar 65. Opposite the turn-back line 85 of the lower collar 65 is a collar edge 87. The intersection of the turn-back line 85 and the collar edge 87 of the lower collar 65 is the turn-back end 89. The edge of the front body 61 below the turn-back end 89 is the front hem 79. In FIG. 8, the first buttonhole 81 is positioned so that it partially overlaps the lower collar 65, and the second buttonhole 82 is positioned below the first buttonhole 81. In the prior art top, unlike the front body 11 and lower collar 15 of the present embodiment shown in Figure 2, the collar end 87 does not reach the end 89 of the turn-up as if it were asymptotically approaching the turn-up line 85, as shown in Figure 8(b).

[0028] In the prior art jacket, as shown in Figure 8(a), when the lower collar 65 is unfolded around the turn-back line 85 so that the lower collar 65 and the front body 61 are on the same plane, the turn-back end 89 is recessed inward, rather than projecting outward like the turn-back end 39 shown in Figure 3. Also, as shown in Figure 8(a), the collar end 87 does not reach the turn-back end 89, as if it were asymptotically approaching the turn-back line 85. Note that Figure 8(a) is a view from the same perspective as Figure 8(b), and shows the lower collar 65, which is bent diagonally downward around the turn-back line 85 in Figure 8(b), unfolded diagonally upward around the turn-back line 85, and moved so that the lower collar 65 and the front body 61 are on the same plane. In Figure 8(a), the lower collar 65 is located above the turn-back end 89.

[0029] In a conventional jacket, as shown in Figure 8(b), when the lower collar 65 is folded diagonally downward around the turn-back line 85, the weight of the lower collar 65 is heavily placed on the turn-back end 89, causing a force in the direction A shown in Figure 8(b) to be applied to the area around the turn-back end 89. In Figure 8(a), where the lower collar 65 and the front body 61 are on the same plane, the lower collar 65 is located above the turn-back end 89, and when the lower collar 65 is folded as shown in Figure 8(b), a large load is placed on the turn-back end 89. In a conventional jacket that does not use interlining, the load on the turn-back end 89 causes the area around the turn-back end 89 to turn up, and the distortion affects the entire jacket, leading to the front hem flying up and creases in the shoulder area. The turning up around the end of the turn-up 89 causes the outer and inner lining of the jacket to sag and pull, and as the jacket is worn continuously, this irreversibly affects the entire jacket.

[0030] On the other hand, in the top 1 according to the present embodiment, even when the lower collar 15 is shifted from the unfolded state shown in Fig. 3 to the folded state shown in Fig. 2, there is less force acting to turn up the area near the end of the turn-up collar, as compared to the tops of the prior art. One reason for this is thought to be that in Fig. 3, where the lower collar 15 and the front body 11 are on the same plane, the lower collar 15 is not located above the end of the turn-up collar 39, and even when the lower collar 15 is folded as shown in Fig. 2, there is not much strain on the end of the turn-up collar 39. Therefore, in the top 1 according to the present embodiment, even without the use of interlining, the area near the end of the turn-up collar 15 does not turn up, the front hem does not lift up, and sash wrinkles do not occur in the shoulder area, maintaining the overall shape of the top 1 with a neat appearance like that of a tailored garment.

[0031] Furthermore, in a conventional jacket that does not use interlining, if the outer fabric, facing, and lining, made of the same fabric as the outer fabric, are cut according to the pattern without any difference in size, when the lower collar 65 is folded around the turn-back line 85 as shown in Figure 8(b), the outer fabric will be loose and the lining will be pulled tight. In this state, a resilience force will likely occur that will return the lower collar 65 to its unfolded state shown in Figure 8(a). This is because the lower collar 65 near the end of the turn-back 89 is quite wide. Therefore, in order to restore the lower collar 65 folded around the turn-back line 85 as shown in Figure 8(b) to its normal shape in the conventional jacket, some kind of pressure must be applied to the lower collar 65 while it is folded as shown in Figure 8(b). However, even if a folded state such as that shown in Figure 8(b) can be obtained, there is no difference in size between the outer fabric and the facing and lining, which are made of the same fabric as the outer fabric. Therefore, in the folded state shown in Figure 8(b), the situation where the outer side of the two-layer fabric is loose and the lining side is pulled tight is not fundamentally resolved, and this can cause the finished garment as a whole to be easily distorted.

[0032] On the other hand, in the top 1 of this embodiment, even if the outer fabric, facing, and lining, which are made of the same fabric as the outer fabric, are cut according to the pattern without any difference in size between them, the width of the lower collar 15 near the turn-back end 39 is very small compared to tops of conventional technology, and the repulsive force that tries to return the lower collar 15 from the folded state shown in Figure 2 to the unfolded state shown in Figure 3 is very small. Therefore, there is no need to apply any pressure to the lower collar 15 in the folded state shown in Figure 2, and the rolled shape of the lower collar 15 is naturally tailored to look beautiful. The neat roll of the lower collar 15 in the top 1 of this embodiment contributes to maintaining the overall shape of the top 1 in a neat, tailored appearance.

[0033] Furthermore, in top 1 according to this embodiment, the lower end of collar edge 37 of lower collar 15 approaches turn line 35 and reaches turn end 39, which gives the rolled shape of lower collar 15 a natural and beautiful appearance, an advantage not found in tops of conventional technology. The neat roll of lower collar 15 in top 1 according to this embodiment contributes to maintaining the overall shape of top 1 in a neat, tailored appearance.

[0034] Furthermore, in the top 1 according to the present embodiment, as shown in Fig. 1, the shoulder line 25 is positioned closer to the front body 11 than in the prior art, which has the effect of further suppressing the occurrence of sash wrinkles in the shoulder portion and contributes to maintaining a neat, tailored appearance for the overall shape of the top 1. The shoulder line 25 shown in Fig. 1 is formed by sewing together the front body 11 and the back body 13 obtained from the patterns for the front body 11k having the shoulder line 25fk shown in Fig. 4 and the back body 13k having the shoulder line 25bk shown in Fig. 14. The front body 11 and back body 13 obtained from the patterns of Figures 4 and 14 are sewn together so that point N of shoulder line 25fk on the front body 11k side shown in Figure 4 (the seam point at the base of the neck on the front body) is aligned with point M of shoulder line 25bk on the back body 13k side shown in Figure 14 (the point on the back body that corresponds to point N on the front body when sewing), and point T of shoulder line 25fk (the point at the shoulder tip on the front body) is aligned with point S of shoulder line 25bk (the point on the back body that corresponds to point T on the front body when sewing). The shoulder line 25bk shown in FIG. 14 is 1 to 2 cm longer than the shoulder line 25fk shown in FIG. 4. When sewing the front body 11 and the back body 13 obtained from the patterns of FIGS. 4 and 14, the shoulder line on the back body 13 side is set in place, resulting in a three-dimensional shape in which the shoulder line 25 shown in FIG. 1 is slightly curved toward the front body at the sleeve 17 side, i.e., the portions near points T and S. As shown in FIG. 9(a), the angle θ1 of the shoulder line 25fk relative to the grain line D1 of the front body 11k is preferably 30 to 50 degrees. From the viewpoint of the effect of suppressing the occurrence of sash wrinkles in the shoulder area, the angle θ1 is more preferably 35 to 45 degrees. The angle θ1 of the shoulder line 25fk shown in FIG. 9(a) is an angle that is substantially maintained when the front body 11 and the back body 13 obtained from the patterns of FIGS. 4 and 14 are sewn together to form the shoulder line 25 shown in FIG. 1. On the other hand, in the case of a conventional top, as shown in Figure 9(b), the angle θ2 of the shoulder line 75fk ​​with respect to the grain line D2 of the front body 61k of the conventional top is usually around 60 degrees. If the angle of the shoulder line with respect to the grain line of the front body is around 60 degrees or more, sash wrinkles are likely to occur in the shoulder area.

[0035] The upper garment 1 according to the present embodiment has the advantage of requiring fewer component parts than conventional upper garments that use interlining or padding. Furthermore, compared to conventional upper garments that use interlining or padding, the upper garment 1 according to the present embodiment does not require consideration of the thickness of interlining or padding, so the amount of outer and inner lining materials required can be reduced. Furthermore, the lower number of component parts in the upper garment 1 according to the present embodiment can reduce the number of work processes by approximately 25%. For example, what previously required approximately 200 steps can be produced in approximately 150 steps with the upper garment 1 according to the present embodiment.

[0036] Patterns are extremely important in the production of clothing such as suit jackets. The jacket of this embodiment does not use any interlining or padding, so conventional patterns that use interlining or the like cannot be used as is. The following is an example of a method for modifying patterns for the front, lower collar, and back of a jacket of the prior art, which uses interlining and padding, into patterns for the front, lower collar, and back of a jacket of this embodiment.

[0037] Figures 10-12 illustrate a method for making patterns for the front bodice and undercollar of the jacket according to this embodiment. For simplicity, all seam lines have been omitted from Figures 10-12. Furthermore, because Figures 10-12 are intended solely to explain the making of patterns for the front bodice and undercollar, the chest pocket, tucks, and two buttonholes shown in Figures 4 and 6 have also been omitted. In Figure 10, the front bodice 61k and undercollar 65k of the prior art are shown, with the slit 95k in the front bodice 61k positioned for various pockets, such as flaps. In Figure 10, the seams between the waistband and the undercollar of the prior art jacket are indicated by seam lines 93ak and 93bk. Furthermore, in Figure 10, the seams between the sleeves of the prior art jacket are indicated by seam line 91k. In Figure 10, the boundary between the front body 61k and the lower collar 65k is a turn-back line 85k, which is also the folding portion of the lower collar 65k. Opposite the turn-back line 85k of the lower collar 65k is a collar edge 87k. The point where the turn-back line 85k of the lower collar 65k intersects with the collar edge 87k is the turn-back end 89k. The edge below the turn-back end 89k is the front hem 79k. The part of the lower collar 65k that connects to the upper collar of a jacket of the prior art is a gorge line 83k. The front body 61k and lower collar 65k of the prior art in Fig. 10 are divided by cutting horizontally, for example, at two locations near the bust line and above the bust line, and the three divided parts are fixed by shifting them slightly from their original positions so that they overlap each other, so as to shorten the vertical lengths of the front body 61k and lower collar 65k. Next, a horizontal slit is made from slightly below the turn-back end 89k of the front body 61k of the prior art in Fig. 10 to the middle of the front body 61k where the tuck will be formed, and cutting is then performed perpendicular to the grain line of the front body 61k to near the bottom end of the front hem 79, resulting in a part in which the front hem 79k appears to be separated from the entire front body 61k. The divided front hem 79k part is slid from its original position to overlap slightly toward the seam line 93bk of the front body 61k, and then fixed, thereby slightly shortening the left and right direction of the lower part of the front body 61k. Furthermore, the vicinity of the shoulder line 75fk ​​of the front body 61k of the prior art in Figure 10 is cut so that the angle of the shoulder line 75fk ​​with respect to the grain line of the front body 61k is in the range of 30 to 50 degrees.In this way, by modifying the front body 61k and lower collar 65k of the conventional technology in Figure 10 by cutting and dividing them or by shifting them from their original positions and fixing them, it is possible to produce the front body 62k and lower collar 66k as illustrated in Figure 11.

[0038] When the front body 62k and lower collar 66k shown in Figure 11 are superimposed on the front body 61k and lower collar 65k of the prior art shown in Figure 10 so that the four parts of the seam line 93ak, seam line 93bk, slit 95k, and turn-down end point 89k are in the same position, the result is as shown in the difference diagram in Figure 12. In Figure 12, the front body 62k and lower collar 66k are represented by solid lines, and the front body 61k and lower collar 65k are represented by dotted lines except for the seam line 93ak, seam line 93bk, slit 95k, and turn-down end point 89k, which are in the same position. As shown in Figure 12, the shoulder line 76fk of the front body 62k is significantly lower than the position of the shoulder line 75fk ​​of the front body 61k, and the angle it forms with the grain line of the fabric is small. Furthermore, the position of the gorge line 84k of the lower collar 66k is slightly lower than the position of the gorge line 83k of the lower collar 65k. Furthermore, the seam line 92k is shorter than the seam line 91k. In addition, the front hem 80k is shorter horizontally than the front hem 79k. Because the front body 62k and the lower collar 66k do not use any interlining or padding, their outer shapes are smaller than those of the front body 61k and the lower collar 65k, which are assumed to use interlining or padding, as shown in FIG. 12. The front body 62k and the lower collar 66k obtained in this way, as shown in FIG. 11, differ in shape from the lower collar 15k, the turn-down end 39k, and the front hem 29k shown in FIG. 4, and therefore cannot be said to be patterns for the front body and the lower collar of the jacket according to this embodiment. Using the front body 62k and lower collar 66k shown in Figure 11 as a reference, the shapes of the lower collar 66k, turn-down end 89k, and front hem 80k in Figure 11 can be further transformed into the shapes of the lower collar 15k, turn-down end 39k, and front hem 29k shown in Figure 4, thereby producing the outer shapes of the patterns for the front body and lower collar of the jacket in this embodiment.

[0039] A method for making a pattern for the back bodice of the jacket according to this embodiment will be described using Figures 13 and 14. For the back bodice 63k of the conventional jacket shown in Figure 13, the shoulder line 75bk, the seam line 97k with the sleeve portion, the seam line 94k with the waistband, and the seam line 96k with the right-side back bodice are shown as finished lines, and the dash-dotted line located outside of these lines is the seam allowance line 102k. By shifting the position of the shoulder line 75bk in Figure 13 upward by moving point S without moving point M, a shoulder line 25bk as shown in Figure 14 can be formed, and the back bodice 63k can be transformed into the back bodice 13k according to this embodiment. The dotted line 75bk in Figure 14 indicates the position of the shoulder line 75bk of the back bodice 63k of the conventional design shown in Figure 13. However, the shoulder line 25bk is positioned closer to the front bodice than the shoulder line 75bk when the prepared back bodice is sewn together with the front bodice. The angle of the shoulder line 25bk corresponds to the shoulder line 25fk of the front body 11k according to this embodiment, and since the angle of the shoulder line 25fk with respect to the grain line of the ground is smaller than that of the conventional one, the angle of the shoulder line 25bk with respect to the grain line of the ground of the back body 13k is larger. Note that, for the back body 13k according to this embodiment shown in Figure 14, the shoulder line 25bk, the seam line 42k with the sleeve portion, the seam line 44k with the waistband, and the seam line 46k with the back body of the right half are shown as finished lines, and the dashed lines located outside of these are seam allowance lines 103k.

[0040] As shown in Figures 10 to 14, if a pattern for the front, lower collar, and back of the top of the present embodiment can be created by modifying a conventional pattern, the components of the front, lower collar, and back of the top of the present embodiment can be cut from the pattern and finished in detail, and the components of the front, lower collar, and back of the right half of the body can be similarly finished, and both sleeves, both waistbands, and the top collar connecting the two halves can also be provided, thereby making the top of the present embodiment. Of course, the top of the present embodiment can also be made by creating a new pattern such as that shown in Figure 4, rather than using a pattern modified from a conventional pattern. By creating a pattern that fits the top of the present embodiment, the overall shape will have a solid appearance like a tailored suit, without any overall sagging or tightness.

[0041] 15 and 16 show three components for making the front body 11 and the lower collar 15, and the numerical portions of each symbol correspond in part to the symbols shown in FIGS. 1 to 3. In this specification, the names of the components are those that correspond to the names of the components in the finished sewn state. In addition, in FIGS. 15 and 16, the symbols for the outer fabric, facings, and linings are suffixed with "f," "m," and "b," respectively, to indicate the components. Therefore, in this specification, the notation combining "the name of each part in the finished state" and "a code ending in 'f'" indicates each corresponding part on the outer fabric of the component parts that make up each part in the finished state, the notation combining "the name of each part in the finished state" and "a code ending in 'm'" indicates each corresponding part on the inside back of the component parts that make up each part in the finished state, and the notation combining "the name of each part in the finished state" and "a code ending in 'b'" indicates each corresponding part on the lining of the component parts that make up each part in the finished state.

[0042] In front body 11f and lower collar 15f made of the outer fabric shown in Figure 15, chest pocket 20f indicates the formation position of chest pocket 20 shown in Figures 1 to 3, and chest pocket 20 is made from the same fabric as the outer fabric of front body 11 shown in Figures 1 to 3. Tuck 21f shown in Figure 15 is represented by three vertical lines and one horizontal line extending in a substantially vertical direction that converge at the top, but tuck 21 as shown in Figures 1 to 3 is formed by folding the vertical lines in a valley fold with the center line of the vertical lines as the valley side and sewing the remaining two vertical lines together. There is a slit 45f at the bottom end of tuck 21f in Figure 15, and the formation of tuck 21f causes the upper part of slit 45f to shrink horizontally, making seam lines 43af and 43bf continuous, resulting in seam line 43 as shown in Figures 2 and 3.

[0043] The facing centered on the under collar 15m shown in Figure 16(a) is made from the same fabric as the outer fabric shown in Figure 15, and the outer fabric of Figure 15 and the facing of Figure 16(a) are sewn together with the front sides facing inward (the outer fabric faces are facing inward). At this time, the under collar 15m shown in Figure 16(a) and the under collar 15f shown in Figure 15 are aligned and sewn together, i.e., the gorge line 33m and the gorge line 33f, the collar end 37m and the collar end 37f, the return line 35m and the return line 35f, and the return end 39m and the return end 39f are aligned with each other. The seam line 53m in Fig. 16(a) is sewn together with the seam line 53b in the lining shown in Fig. 16(b), and the seam line 54m in Fig. 16(a) is sewn together with the seam line 54b in the lining shown in Fig. 16(b), thereby sewing and fixing the facing in Fig. 16(a) and the lining in Fig. 16(b). The front hem 29b of the lining shown in Fig. 16(b) corresponds to the front hem 29f of the outer fabric shown in Fig. 15, the seam line 43b of the lining shown in Fig. 16(b) corresponds to the seam lines 43af and 43bf of the outer fabric shown in Fig. 15, and the seam line 41b of the lining shown in Fig. 16(b) corresponds to the seam line 41f of the outer fabric shown in Fig. 15, thereby sewing the lining shown in Fig. 16(b) and the outer fabric shown in Fig. 15 together. The order of sewing does not affect the present invention. By appropriately sewing together the outer fabric shown in Fig. 15, the facing shown in Fig. 16(a), and the lining shown in Fig. 16(b), the front body 11 and lower collar 15 shown in Fig. 1 etc. are completed. In particular, with regard to the facing shown in Fig. 16(a) and the lining shown in Fig. 16(b), Fig. 16 is merely an example, and the facing may be made to extend to the bottom of the front hem, for example. Furthermore, the lining may be "fully lined" covering the entire inside of the jacket except for the facing, or it may be "unlined" covering only the shoulders and upper back. The facing and lining may have practical or decorative features such as inner pockets.

[0044] The outer fabric, facing, and lining that make up the front body 11 and lower collar 15 shown in FIG. 1 and elsewhere may be made so that the finished lines of each part overlap perfectly during sewing, or they may be made slightly offset by a difference between the outer fabric and facing, or between the outer fabric and lining, so that one finished line runs outward or inward relative to the other finished line. Alternatively, the fabrics may be cut so that the finished lines of each part overlap perfectly, but they may be sewn together with a slight offset from each other during sewing. In the present invention, the outer fabric, facing, and lining do not need to be offset from each other to achieve a solid, tailored-like overall appearance. Furthermore, cutting the fabric, ironing it out, and sewing it to achieve a more three-dimensional shape may be freely performed on the top of this embodiment.

[0045] The back body 13 is made based on Figure 14, which shows the pattern for the back body 13. The back body 13 is made up of an outer fabric and a lining fabric cut based on Figure 14. Conventional techniques can be used to sew the back body 13, which is the left half, and the back body 14, which is the right half, shown in Figure 1. A pattern for the back body 14, which is the right half, shown in Figure 1, is prepared and used in a way that is balanced with Figure 14, which shows the pattern for the back body 13.

[0046] The sleeves 17 sewn to the front body 11, back body 13, and waistband 27 shown in FIG. 1 and elsewhere may be shaped as in conventional techniques, or may be shaped to follow the natural curve of the wearer's arms. The sleeves 17 do not require batting, which serves as interfacing at the sleeve cap (the base of the sleeve, referring to the curve of the sleeve attachment line between the two body panels). Both the cap and valley sleeves (lower sleeves), which comprise the sleeves, can be constructed solely from the outer fabric and lining. Because the sleeves 17 do not use batting, the thickness of the batting does not need to be considered when creating patterns, as opposed to sleeves that are designed to use batting. While the sleeve linings of conventional jackets are cut in the direction of the grain of the fabric or approximately in the direction of the grain of the fabric, the linings of the sleeves 17, both the cap and valley sleeves, are preferably cut at a half bias (22-23 degrees) to a positive bias (45 degrees) relative to the grain of the lining. The lining of the sleeve 17 is more preferably cut in a positive bias (45 degrees) direction. Cutting the lining of the sleeve 17 in a half bias (22-23 degrees) to positive bias (45 degrees) direction with respect to the grain of the lining has the advantage that the lining of the sleeve 17 can easily stretch along with the movement of the wearer's arm, reducing stress on the wearer when raising and lowering their arm. From the viewpoint of maintaining the shape and beautiful appearance of the sleeve 17, it is preferable that the outer fabric of the sleeve 17, both the peak sleeve and the valley sleeve, be cut in the direction of the grain of the outer fabric or approximately in the direction of the grain of the outer fabric. In other words, the lining of the sleeve 17 is at a half bias (22-23 degrees) to positive bias (45 degrees) with respect to the grain of the outer fabric of the sleeve 17. The sleeves 17 are cut in a half bias (22-23 degrees) to positive bias (45 degrees) direction relative to the grain of the lining of the fabric, making it easier for the wearer to move their arms, which also makes it less likely for the overall shape of the top of this embodiment to sag or become tight, and contributes to maintaining a neat appearance like that of a tailored garment.

[0047] The waistband 27 and upper collar 19 sewn to the front body 11 and back body 13 shown in FIG. 1 etc. may be the same as those produced by conventional techniques.

[0048] The above has been described with respect to the left half of the top, but if the right half is made and sewn in the same way, the top according to this embodiment will be completed.

[0049] (Other embodiments) As described above, the present invention has been described by way of an embodiment, but the descriptions and drawings that form part of this disclosure should not be understood to limit the present invention. Various alternative embodiments, examples, and operating techniques will become apparent to those skilled in the art from this disclosure. The respective technical ideas described in this embodiment can also be combined with each other.

[0050] In the present invention, it is advisable to apply the usual yasashi (slit) on the under-collar, but the presence or absence of yasashi, the degree of yasashi, and the method are optional. In addition, the type of fabric for the outer and lining fabrics and the type of sewing thread used in the upper garment of the present invention are not important.

[0051] Furthermore, various designs can be adopted for the jacket of the present invention. For example, while the jacket of the present invention has a waistband, a waistband may not be necessary depending on the overall design. The tucks on the front body may not necessarily be provided depending on the overall design, and if waist pockets are not provided, the tucks may extend to the bottom of the front hem. While a chest pocket is shown in Figure 1 and other figures for the jacket of the present invention, the presence or absence and shape of the chest pocket are optional. The shapes of the upper and lower collars and waist pockets, as well as the number, shape, and position of buttons and buttonholes, can be freely determined depending on the overall design. For example, as shown in Figure 17, a design with a semi-peaked lapel collar, manica camicia sleeve caps, and welt waist pockets without flaps can be adopted.

[0052] Furthermore, although the contents of the present invention have been explained using a jacket with a "right front" as an example, as shown in Figure 1, the present invention can of course also be applied to a jacket with a "left front." Men's suit jackets are usually right-front, and women's suit jackets are usually left-front.

[0053] As such, the present invention naturally includes various embodiments not described herein. The technical scope of the present invention is defined only by the invention-specifying matters according to the scope of the claims that are appropriate from the above description. [Explanation of symbols]

[0054] (Finished jacket) 1...Top, 11,12...Front, 13,14...Back, 15,16...Lower collar, 17,18...Sleeve, 19...Upper collar, 20...Chest pocket, 21,22...Tuck, 23,24...Waist pocket, 25,26...Shoulder line, 27,28...Waistline, 29,30...Front hem, 31,32...Buttonhole, 33,34...Gorge line, 35,36...Fold line, 37,38...Collar edge, 39...Fold end, 41,43...Stitch line (pattern) 11k...front body, 13k...back body, 15k...lower collar, 20k...chest pocket, 21k...tuck, 25fk, 25bk...shoulder line, 29k...front hem, 31k, 32k...buttonhole, 33k...gorge line, 35k...turn line, 37k...collar edge, 39k...turn end, 41k, 42k, 43ak, 43bk, 44k, 46k...seam line, 45k...notch 61k,62k...front body, 63k...back body, 65k,66k...lower collar, 70k...chest pocket, 71k...tuck, 75fk,75bk,76fk...shoulder line, 79k,80k...front hem, 81k,82k...buttonhole, 83k,84k...gorge line, 85k,86k...turn line, 87k,88k...collar edge, 89k...turn end, 91k,92k,93ak,93bk,94k,96k,97k...seam line, 95k...notch 100k, 101k, 102k, 103k...seam allowance lines (Component parts made from a pattern) 11f...front body, 15f...lower collar, 20f...chest pocket, 21f...tuck, 25ff...shoulder line, 29f...front hem, 31f, 32f...buttonhole, 33f...gorge line, 35f...turn line, 37f...collar edge, 39f...turn end, 41f, 43af, 43bf...seam line, 45f...notch 51m...front body, 15m...lower collar, 25fm...shoulder line, 31m, 32m...buttonhole, 33m...gorge line, 35m...turn line, 37m...collar edge, 39m...turn end, 53m, 54m...seam line 52b...front body, 25fb...shoulder line, 29b...front hem, 41b, 43b, 53b, 54b...seam line 100f, 100m, 100b...seam allowance line

Claims

1. A jacket that does not use interlining or padding, When the lower collar is unfolded around the return line so that the lower collar and the front body are on the same plane, This jacket is characterized in that the end of the turn-back protrudes outward, the lower end side of the collar edge of the lower collar reaches the end of the turn-back as it approaches the turn-back line, and the lower collar is not positioned on a straight line in the direction of the grain of the front body that passes through the end of the turn-back.

2. 2. The jacket according to claim 1, wherein the shoulder line of the front body is at an angle of 30 degrees to 50 degrees with respect to the grain of the front body.

3. 3. The jacket according to claim 1, wherein the grain of the lining of the sleeve is half bias to positive bias with respect to the grain of the outer fabric of the sleeve.

Images