Oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes

The oil-in-water cosmetic composition addresses adhesion, clumping, and curl retention issues by using specific fatty acids, potassium hydroxide, and nonionic surfactants, achieving glossy and lengthening effects with improved curl maintenance.

JP7783721B2Active Publication Date: 2025-12-10KAO CORP
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2021178114
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2021-10-29
Publication Date
2025-12-10
Estimated Expiration
2041-10-29

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Conventional eyelash cosmetics lack sufficient adhesion, clumping resistance, curl retention, and lengthening effect, and fail to impart a glossy feel, with inadequate curl maintenance immediately after application.

Method used

An oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising specific fatty acids, potassium hydroxide, nonionic surfactants, and dimer dilinoleic acid diester, formulated to enhance adhesion, prevent clumping, and maintain curl and lengthening effects.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves good adhesion, prevents clumping, provides a glossy appearance, and maintains curl retention, with improved lengthening effects.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

To provide an oil-in-water type cosmetic for eyelashes which has good adhesiveness to eyelashes, does not form lumps even when applied in layers, gives glossy feeling to eyelashes and has excellent curling power and long effect.SOLUTION: There is provided an oil-in-water type cosmetic for eyelashes which comprises the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D): (A) a fatty acid having 14 to 22 carbon atoms in which the ratio of a fatty acid having a number of carbon atoms of 18 is 50 mass% or more, (B) potassium hydroxide, (C) 0.5 to 9 mass% of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 5 to 14, (D) 0.1 to 5 mass% of a dimerdilinoleic acid ester, wherein the mass ratio (A) / (B) of the component (A) to the component (A) is 5.5 to 10.SELECTED DRAWING: None
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes. [Background technology]

[0002] In the field of eyelash cosmetics, studies have been conducted to impart a curling effect and a volume effect to the eyelashes, make the eyelashes look beautiful, and maintain the cosmetic effect. For example, Patent Document 1 describes that a keratin fiber coating composition containing a polyglycerin fatty acid ester and a fatty acid soap has good stability over time, good adhesion to keratin fibers, is easy to apply in layers, and has excellent effects of making hair appear longer, thicker, and thicker. Furthermore, Patent Document 2 describes that a cosmetic for eyelashes and eyebrows containing a wax that is solid at 25°C and a straight-chain fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms or an alkali salt thereof gives a sense of volume with a single application, and does not clump or cause drooping eyelashes even when applied in multiple layers. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0003] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-128522 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2017-1974440 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0004] However, conventional eyelash cosmetics have not been sufficient in terms of adhesion to eyelashes, clumping resistance when applied multiple times, curl retention, or lengthening effect, leaving room for further improvement. Furthermore, it has been difficult to impart a glossy feel to eyelashes. Furthermore, it has not been possible to adequately maintain the curl immediately after application. [Means for solving the problem]

[0005] The present inventors have found that an oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes that solves the above-mentioned problems can be obtained by using a specific fatty acid in combination with potassium hydroxide, a nonionic surfactant, and a dimer dilinoleic acid diester.

[0006] The present invention relates to a composition comprising the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D): (A) a fatty acid having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in which the proportion of a fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms is 50% by mass or more; (B) potassium hydroxide, (C) 0.5 to 9 mass% of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 5 to 14, (D) Dimeric linoleic acid diester 0.1 to 5% by mass wherein the mass ratio (A) / (B) of the component (A) to the component (B) is 5.5 to 10. The present invention also relates to a method for producing the oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes, which comprises mixing an oil phase containing components (A), (C), and (D) with an aqueous phase containing component (B). [Effects of the Invention]

[0007] The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention has good adhesion to eyelashes, does not clump even when applied in multiple layers, gives the eyelashes a glossy appearance, has an excellent lengthening effect, and can maintain the curl state (angle) immediately after application (curl retention). DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008] The fatty acid of component (A) used in the present invention is a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a straight or branched chain with 14 to 22 carbon atoms, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, and behenic acid. From the viewpoint of smoothness during application, a straight-chain saturated fatty acid is preferred. Furthermore, from the viewpoints of adhesion to the eyelashes, resistance to clumping due to repeated application, and curl retention, a fatty acid having 16 to 18 carbon atoms is preferred. The fatty acids of component (A) can be used alone or in combination of two or more. From the viewpoints of adhesion to eyelashes and curl retention, the proportion of fatty acids having 18 carbon atoms in component (A) is 50% by mass or more, preferably 55% by mass or more, more preferably 65% ​​by mass or more, and even more preferably 75% by mass or more.

[0009] The content of component (A) in the total composition is preferably 1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 1.5 to 9% by mass, and even more preferably 2 to 7.5% by mass, from the viewpoints of adhesion to the eyelashes, resistance to clumping even when applied in multiple layers, curl retention, and the lengthening effect that makes the eyelashes appear longer.

[0010] Component (B), potassium hydroxide, allows for adjustment of the pH range, and when it forms a fatty acid salt with component (A), it can maintain the curl state (angle) immediately after applying the cosmetic with a brush (high curl retention), improve adhesion to the eyelashes, eliminate clumps, and give the eyelashes a glossy, lengthening effect. In view of the above effects, the content of component (B) is preferably 0.05 to 3 mass % of the total composition, more preferably 0.1 to 2 mass %, and even more preferably 0.15 to 1.5 mass %.

[0011] In the present invention, the mass ratio (A) / (B) of component (A) to component (B) is 5.5 to 10, preferably 6 to 9, and more preferably 6.5 to 8.5, from the viewpoints of adhesion to eyelashes, resistance to clumping, and maintenance of the curl state (curl retention). In the present invention, components (A) and (B) are neutralized in the composition to form a salt.

[0012] The component (C) used in the present invention is a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 5 to 14, preferably an HLB of 6 to 13, and more preferably an HLB of 7 to 12. Component (C) improves adhesion when mascara is applied to the eyelashes, prevents clumping (mascara clumps) caused by repeated application, and provides curl-retaining power and a lengthening effect to the eyelashes after application. Here, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) indicates the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group portion in the total molecular weight of the surfactant, and for nonionic surfactants, it can be calculated using Griffin's formula. The HLB value of a mixed surfactant consisting of two or more nonionic surfactants is the arithmetic average of the HLB values ​​of the individual nonionic surfactants based on their blending ratio.

[0013] Mixed HLB=Σ(HLBx×Wx) / ΣWx HLBx indicates the HLB value of nonionic surfactant X. Wx represents the weight (g) of the nonionic surfactant X having the value of HLBx.

[0014] The nonionic surfactants of component (C) are those commonly used in cosmetics, such as glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene propylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene phytostanol ether, polyoxyethylene phytosterose ether, polyoxyethylene cholestanol ether, polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether, polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxanes, and polyoxyalkylene-alkyl co-modified organopolysiloxanes. Among these, monoglyceryl containing a fatty acid having 16 to 20 carbon atoms is preferred from the viewpoints of adhesion during application, resistance to clumping, maintenance of the curl state (curl retention), and lengthening effect.

[0015] Component (C) may be used alone or in combination with two or more types, and the content is 0.5 to 9 mass % of the total composition, preferably 0.8 to 5.0 mass %, and more preferably 1.5 to 3.5 mass %, from the viewpoints of adhesion during application, resistance to clumping, maintenance of the curl state (curl retention), lengthening effect, and maintenance of stability during long-term storage.

[0016] The dimer dilinoleic acid diester of component (D) can smooth the surface of the eyelashes and give them a glossy finish. The dimer dilinoleic acid diester of component (D) is preferably an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and dimer diol, which is used in ordinary cosmetics. The ester moiety of dimer dilinoleic acid preferably contains one or more moieties selected from behenyl, isostearyl, stearyl, cetyl, and phytosteryl, and more preferably contains two or more moieties selected from behenyl, isostearyl, stearyl, cetyl, and phytosteryl. More specific examples include dimer dilinoleyl bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, dimer dilinoleyl bis(phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dimer dilinoleate, (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dimer dilinoleate, di(isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, and dimer dilinoleyl diisostearate, of which (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dimer dilinoleate and di(isostearyl-phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate are preferred, and (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dimer dilinoleate is more preferred.

[0017] Commercially available products of component (D) include "Plandool-S, -H" dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), "LUSPLAN PIDA" dimer dilinoleate di(isostearyl / phytosteryl), "LUSPLAN DDDA" dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate dilinoleyl (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl), "Plandool-G" dimer dilinoleyl diisostearate dilinoleyl, and "PLANDOOL-GR" dimer dilinoleyl bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, all manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0018] One or more types of component (D) can be used, and the content is 0.1 to 5% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.3 to 1.5% by mass, of the total composition from the viewpoints of imparting gloss to eyelashes, preventing clumping, maintaining the curl (curl retention), and lengthening effect.

[0019] In the present invention, the mass ratio ((A) + (C)) / (D) of the total amount of components (A) and (C) to component (D) is preferably 3 to 45, more preferably 5 to 40, and even more preferably 10 to 30, from the viewpoints of adhesion to eyelashes upon application and resistance to clumping.

[0020] The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention may further contain (E) naphthalenesulfonic acid or a salt thereof, thereby further improving curl retention. Examples of the salt of naphthalenesulfonic acid include sodium salt, potassium salt, lithium salt, aluminum salt, ammonium salt, and organic ammonium salt. As component (E), sodium naphthalenesulfonate is preferred from the viewpoint of long-term solubility in the continuous phase.

[0021] Component (E) can be used alone or in combination of two or more types, and from the viewpoint of maintaining the curl state (curl retention) under high humidity conditions, the content is preferably 0.1 to 1.5 mass % of the total composition, more preferably 0.2 to 1.3 mass %, and even more preferably 0.3 to 0.8 mass %.

[0022] The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention may further contain (F) ethyl alcohol, which can further improve adhesion to eyelashes. The content of ethyl alcohol in component (F) is preferably 0.1 to 5 mass% of the total composition, more preferably 0.3 to 3 mass%, and even more preferably 0.5 to 2.5 mass%, from the viewpoints of smooth adhesion to the eyelashes, lack of clumping, curl retention, and maintaining the physical properties of the emulsion cosmetic over a long period of time.

[0023] The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention may further contain a wax that is solid at 25°C. A wax that is solid at 25°C refers to a wax that has a melting point of 40°C or higher and is water-insoluble. Among these, waxes with a melting point of 60°C or higher and 110°C or lower are preferred, and one or more waxes selected from animal waxes, vegetable waxes, mineral waxes, and synthetic waxes can be used. More specific examples include rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, sunflower seed wax, beeswax, ceresin, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, silicone wax, and hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0024] The waxes that are solid at 25°C can be used alone or in combination of two or more. From the viewpoints of maintaining the curl (curl retention) and making the eyelashes appear longer, the content is preferably 5 to 40% by mass, more preferably 10 to 35% by mass, and even more preferably 15 to 30% by mass of the total composition.

[0025] In the present invention, the water content is preferably 30 to 70% by mass, more preferably 40 to 60% by mass, and even more preferably 45 to 55% by mass of the total composition, from the viewpoints of adhesion to the eyelashes upon application, drying speed after application, and maintenance of the curl state (curl retention).

[0026] The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention may further contain ingredients used in ordinary cosmetics, such as oily ingredients other than those mentioned above, surfactants other than those mentioned above, powders, fibers, water-soluble solvents, film-forming agents, inorganic salts, ultraviolet absorbers, ultraviolet scattering agents, moisturizers, pigments, fragrances, antioxidants, and sequestering agents.

[0027] The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention can be produced by uniformly mixing and stirring the components. Specifically, it is preferably produced by mixing an oil phase containing components (A), (C), and (D) with an aqueous phase containing component (B). By adding the fatty acid of component (A) to the oil phase and the potassium hydroxide of component (B) to the aqueous phase, and then mixing the oil and aqueous phases to form a fatty acid salt, it is possible to obtain an oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes that is less likely to clump and has excellent curl retention.

[0028] The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention can be used as a mascara, a mascara base, a mascara top coat, etc., and is particularly suitable as a mascara.

[0029] The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention can be applied using an applicator commonly used for mascara and the like, such as a brush made of fibers twisted with wire, a comb-shaped or coil-shaped applicator, or a resin-molded brush molded into a brush shape using resin. [Example]

[0030] Examples 1 to 12, Comparative Examples 1 to 12 Oil-in-water eyelash cosmetics were prepared with the compositions shown in Tables 1 to 3, and evaluated for adhesion to eyelashes upon application, lack of clumping with repeated application, glossiness of eyelashes, curl retention and lengthening effect 6 hours after application. The results are also shown in Tables 1 to 3.

[0031] (Manufacturing method) The oil phase ingredients including components (A), (C) and (D) were mixed and heated to 90°C to dissolve and homogenize, thereby obtaining an oil phase. Next, the aqueous phase components including component (B) were heated and dissolved at 90°C, and the pre-dissolved oil phase was added to this, followed by emulsification using a homomixer. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature with stirring, and the remaining components were added at 40°C, followed by further stirring. The mixture was then filled into a specified airtight container to obtain the desired oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes.

[0032] (Evaluation method) Twenty female panelists applied each oil-in-water eyelash cosmetic to their eyelashes and conducted a sensory evaluation of the adhesion to the eyelashes upon application, lack of clumping when applied multiple times, the glossiness of the eyelashes, curl retention and lengthening effect six hours after application. The results are shown as the number of people who answered "good." For multiple applications, clumps of mascara formed on the eyelashes when the initial application was spread up to five times were evaluated as clumps. The curl retention was evaluated based on how well the angle at which the application was maintained, and the lengthening effect was evaluated based on whether the application made the eyelashes feel longer than before.

[0033] [Table 1]

[0034] [Table 2]

[0035] [Table 3]

[0036] *1: TOWAX-1F6 (K) (manufactured by Toa Kasei Co., Ltd.) *2: Golden Brand (Miki Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) *3: Paraffin wax 155(G) (manufactured by Nippon Seiro Co., Ltd.) *4: Kalcol 6850 (Kao Corporation) *5: PLANDOOL-H (manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemicals) *6: PLANDOOL-GR (manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemicals) *7: NIKKOL MGS-BSEV (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals) *8: NIKKOL BC-5.5 (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals) *9: SPAN120 (manufactured by Croda) *10: Leodor TW-S120V (Kao Corporation) *11: HEC Daicel SE600 (manufactured by Daicel) *12:PE-BLACK 10F1 (Mikuni Color Co., Ltd.) *13: Yodosol GH41F (manufactured by Nouryon Japan)

Claims

1. The following components (A), (B), (C), and (D): (A) 1 to 10% by mass of fatty acids having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in which the proportion of fatty acids having 18 carbon atoms is 50% by mass or more; (B) potassium hydroxide, (C) 0.5 to 9 mass% of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 5 to 14, (D) Dimer dilinoleic acid diester 0.1 to 5% by mass wherein the mass ratio (A) / (B) of the component (A) to the component (B) is 5.5 to 10.

2. 2. The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes according to claim 1, wherein the component (C) is a fatty acid monoglyceryl having 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

3. 3. The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes according to claim 1, wherein component (D) comprises one or more selected from the group consisting of phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate and dimer dilinoleyl bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate.

4. The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising (E) naphthalenesulfonic acid or a salt thereof.

5. The oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising (F) ethyl alcohol.

6. 6. A method for producing the oil-in-water cosmetic for eyelashes according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized by mixing an oil phase containing components (A), (C), and (D) with an aqueous phase containing component (B).

Citation Information

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