Cosmetics

A cosmetic formulation with alpha-hydroxy acid, polyether-modified silicone, and amino acid salt maintains hardness and viscosity over time, addressing the stability issues in cosmetics with alpha-hydroxy acids.

JP7784820B2Active Publication Date: 2025-12-12SHISEIDO CO LTD
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2021075185
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2021-04-27
Publication Date
2025-12-12
Estimated Expiration
2041-04-27

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Cosmetics containing alpha hydroxy acids face challenges in maintaining viscosity and hardness over time due to pH and salt concentration changes, which affect the performance and feel of gel and cream bases.

Method used

A cosmetic formulation combining specific amounts of alpha-hydroxy acid, polyether-modified silicone, and amino acid salt, along with optional silicone elastomer and powder, ensures stability and maintains hardness over time.

Benefits of technology

The formulation provides a cosmetic that is easy to use and maintains hardness, offering improved usability and emulsion stability without viscosity loss.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

To provide cosmetics that have good usability and do not show a decreasing hardness over time.SOLUTION: Cosmetics contain (A) α-hydroxy acid, (B) a polyether-modified silicone having a viscosity of 10,000 mm2 / s or more at 25°C, and (C) an amino acid salt. The content of the (A) α-hydroxy acid is 1.5-10 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetics.SELECTED DRAWING: None
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation. [Background technology]

[0002] Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are known to promote epidermal turnover (metabolism) and shrink pores, but when effective amounts of these AHAs are added to cosmetics, the pH of the base decreases and the salt concentration increases. As a result, it is difficult to create formulations that require viscosity, as the (electrostatic repulsion) thickeners used in general gel and cream bases tend to lose viscosity over time. As a result, salt and acid resistance is required, which can limit the applications and formulations.

[0003] To date, cosmetics containing specific polyether-modified silicones as emulsifiers that have excellent emulsion stability and a good feel when used are known (see Patent Document 1). However, no cosmetics containing α-hydroxy acids are known that are favorable in terms of viscosity (hardness) over time and the associated feel when used. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0004] [Patent Document 1] International Publication No. 2019 / 230578 Summary of the Invention

[0005] The present inventors have surprisingly found that by formulating a cosmetic containing specific amounts of an α-hydroxy acid, a specific polyether-modified silicone, and an amino acid salt, it is possible to realize a cosmetic that is easy to use and does not lose hardness over time. The present invention is based on these findings.

[0006] According to the present invention, the following inventions are provided. (1) (A) α-hydroxy acid, (B) Viscosity at 25°C is 10,000 mm 2 / s or more polyether-modified silicone, and (C) Amino acid salt A cosmetic comprising the above, wherein the blending amount of the (A) α-hydroxy acid is 1.5 to 10 mass % relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. (2) The cosmetic preparation according to (1), wherein the (A) α-hydroxy acid is one or more selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid. (3) The cosmetic according to (1) or (2), wherein the amino acid salt (C) is one or more selected from the group consisting of sodium L-glutamate and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salts. (4) The cosmetic preparation according to any one of (1) to (3), further comprising (D) a silicone elastomer. (5) The cosmetic according to (4), wherein the blending amount of (D) silicone elastomer is 0.3 to 5% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. (6) The cosmetic preparation according to any one of (1) to (5), further comprising (E) powder. (7) The cosmetic preparation according to (6), wherein the (E) powder is titanium oxide or amodimethicone-treated silica. (8) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (7), which is a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. (9) A cosmetic preparation according to any one of (1) to (8), which is a cream.

[0007] The use of the cosmetic material of the present invention is advantageous in that it is possible to provide a cosmetic material that is easy to use and whose hardness does not decrease over time.

[0008] The present invention provides (A) α-hydroxy acid, (B) Viscosity at 25°C is 10,000 mm 2 / s or more polyether-modified silicone, and (C) Amino acid salt The cosmetic is provided, which contains the above-mentioned (A) α-hydroxy acid in an amount of 1.5 to 10 mass % relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0009] <(A) α-hydroxy acid> The α-hydroxy acids used in the cosmetic preparation of the present invention have traditionally been used as buffers or neutralizing agents in cosmetics and cleansers, and are also incorporated into various cosmetic preparations for the purposes of softening keratin, activating cells, etc. The α-hydroxy acids incorporated into the cosmetic preparation of the present invention are not particularly limited, but examples include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, glyceric acid, pyruvic acid, mandelic acid, etc., and may be incorporated alone or in combination of two or more. Of these, one or more selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid are preferred, and a combination of glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid is more preferred.

[0010] The amount of α-hydroxy acid used in the cosmetic of the present invention is 1.5 to 10% by mass, preferably 3 to 5% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0011] When the α-hydroxy acid used in the cosmetic of the present invention includes glycolic acid, the blending amount of glycolic acid is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 to 8 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and more preferably 2 to 5 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0012] When the α-hydroxy acid used in the cosmetic of the present invention contains lactic acid, the amount of lactic acid blended is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.5 to 3 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and more preferably 1 to 2 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0013] When the α-hydroxy acid used in the cosmetic of the present invention includes citric acid, the amount of citric acid blended is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 to 4 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and more preferably 1.2 to 3 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0014] <(B) Polyether-modified silicone> The polyether-modified silicone contained in the cosmetic of the present invention has a viscosity of 10,000 mm at 25°C. 2 / s or more, preferably 15,000 mm 2 / s or more, preferably 20,000 mm 2 / s or more. The viscosity of polyether-modified silicone at 25°C is 10,000mm 2 By setting the molecular weight at least 1 / s, good emulsion stability can be ensured. Among these, those which do not have alkyl chains on the side chains but have polyoxyalkylene groups on the side chains of a linear or branched silicone skeleton are preferred.

[0015] A specific example of polyether-modified silicone is PEG / PPG-19 / 19 dimethicone (trade name "BY11-030", HLB=3, viscosity 30,000mm). 2 / s; manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd.)

[0016] The HLB value of the polyether-modified silicone contained in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 8.0 or less, and more preferably 4 or less.

[0017] The amount of polyether-modified silicone contained in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.1 to 10 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and more preferably 0.5 to 2 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0018] <(C) Amino Acid Salt> The amino acid salt contained in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but specific examples thereof include aspartate, glutamate, cysteine ​​salt, histidine salt, lysine salt, ornithine salt, tryptophan salt, pyrrolidone carboxylate, arginine-glutamate, ornithine-glutamate, lysine-glutamate, lysine-aspartate, and ornithine-aspartate, and more specific examples thereof include sodium aspartate, potassium aspartate, and aspartic acid. Examples of the amino acid salt include magnesium glutamate, calcium aspartate, sodium glutamate, potassium glutamate, magnesium glutamate, calcium glutamate, glutamic acid hydrochloride, cysteine ​​hydrochloride, histidine hydrochloride, lysine hydrochloride, ornithine hydrochloride, ornithine acetate, tryptophan hydrochloride, pyrrolidone carboxylate, arginine-glutamate, ornithine-glutamate, lysine-glutamate, lysine-aspartate, ornithine-aspartate, etc. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amino acid salt contained in the cosmetic of the present invention is one or more selected from the group consisting of L-glutamate (e.g., sodium L-glutamate) and pyrrolidone carboxylate (e.g., sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate), more preferably sodium L-glutamate or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate.

[0019] The amount of amino acid salt contained in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.5 to 2 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and more preferably 0.8 to 1.5 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0020] <Silicone elastomer> The cosmetic of the present invention preferably further comprises a silicone elastomer. The silicone elastomer is not particularly limited, but preferably includes one or more selected from the group consisting of dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone / phenylvinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone / bis-vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, alkyl (C30-45) cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, and cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, and particularly preferably includes dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, or dimethicone / phenylvinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

[0021] The silicone elastomer is preferably blended in the form of a swollen product swollen with a liquid oil at room temperature (25°C). This further improves the dispersibility and stability of the silicone elastomer. Examples of liquid oils used for swelling include liquid silicone oil, liquid hydrocarbon oil, liquid ester oil, and liquid higher fatty acid. In particular, liquid oils with low viscosity at room temperature, for example, 100 mPa·s or less, are preferred. The preferred viscosity range is 1 to 100 mPa·s. The mixing ratio of silicone elastomer to liquid oil is preferably 5:95 to 40:60 by mass.

[0022] As the liquid oil-swollen silicone elastomer, commercially available products can also be used, and examples of commercially available products include the following: Examples of swollen dimethicone crosspolymers include 9040 silicone elastomer blend, 9041 silicone elastomer blend, 9045 silicone elastomer blend, and EL-8040ID silicone organic blend (all manufactured by Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd.).

[0023] The amount of silicone elastomer contained in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.3 to 5 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and more preferably 0.5 to 2 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0024] <(E) powder> The cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains a powder. Examples of the powder include talc, mica, kaolin, mica, sericite, muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, lepidolite, biotite, lepidolite, vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, (spherical) silica, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorapatite, hydroxyapatite, and the like. Inorganic powders such as sintered stone, ceramic powder, metal soaps (zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, aluminum stearate, etc.), and boron nitride; spherical organic powders such as polyamide spherical resin powder (nylon spherical powder), spherical polyethylene, cross-linked poly(methyl meth)acrylate spherical resin powder, spherical polyester, cross-linked polystyrene spherical resin powder, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer spherical resin powder, benzoguanamine spherical resin powder, polytetrafluoroethylene spherical powder, and spherical cellulose; titanium oxide. inorganic white pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide; inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (red iron oxide) and iron titanate; inorganic brown pigments such as gamma-iron oxide; inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ochre; inorganic black pigments such as black iron oxide, carbon black, and low-order titanium oxide; inorganic purple pigments such as mango violet and cobalt violet; inorganic green pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, and cobalt titanate; inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine and iron blue; titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, Examples of suitable pigments include pearl pigments such as titanium oxide-coated talc, colored titanium oxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, borosilicate (Ca / Al), and fish scale foil; metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder and copper powder; colorants such as red, yellow, orange, yellow, green, and blue, or colorants (organic pigments) obtained by lake-forming these with zirconium, barium, aluminum, or the like; and natural pigments such as chlorophyll and β-caroline. Of these, titanium oxide or amodimethicone-treated silica is particularly preferred.

[0025] The powder that may be contained in the cosmetic of the present invention may be surface-treated or not, and its shape is not particularly limited, but silica surface-treated with amodimethicone, etc. is preferred. The average particle size of the powder is not particularly limited, but powders of about 1 to 100 μm are usually preferably used.

[0026] <Other ingredients> In addition to the above-mentioned components, the cosmetic of the present invention may contain other components commonly used in cosmetics, such as ultraviolet protection agents, various aqueous solvents, thickeners, sequestering agents, sugars, amino acids, organic amines, pH adjusters, stabilizers, skin nutrients, antioxidants, antioxidant aids, fragrances, etc., as needed, within the scope of not impairing the effects of the present invention.

[0027] The cosmetic of the present invention is preferably a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, more preferably a gel or cream, and particularly preferably a cream. [Example]

[0028] The present invention will be described in detail based on the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Contents are expressed in mass % unless otherwise specified.

[0029] Test Example 1 The cosmetics of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 below (see Tables 1 and 2) were evaluated for "pore contraction effect," as well as for usability, including "lightness and freshness of spread," "smooth and smooth feeling on skin after application," and "pore blurring." Furthermore, the hardness (measured with an 11.3mm diameter or 8mm diameter) and emulsion particle size of these cosmetics were measured, and the hardness stability was subsequently evaluated (after 4 weeks). The evaluation methods and evaluation criteria for each evaluation are as follows. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 3 and 4 below.

[0030] (1) Pore shrinkage and improvement effect Each sample was applied to the face of 10 expert panelists, and a sensory evaluation was conducted on the effect of improving pores after 4 weeks of application. <Evaluation criteria> A: 7 to 10 people answered that it was effective in improving firmness and wrinkles. B: 4 to 6 people answered that it was effective in improving firmness and wrinkles. C: Three or fewer people answered that it was effective in improving firmness and wrinkles.

[0031] (2) Evaluation of ease of application and freshness Each sample was applied to the face of 10 expert panelists, and a sensory evaluation of usability was conducted. <Evaluation criteria> A: 7 to 10 people answered that it spreads easily and feels refreshing to use. B: 4 to 6 people answered that it spreads easily and feels refreshing to use. C: Three or fewer people answered that it spreads easily and feels refreshing to use.

[0032] (3) Evaluation of the smooth and silky feeling of the skin after use Each sample was applied to the face of 10 expert panelists, and a sensory evaluation of usability was conducted. <Evaluation criteria> A: All 10 people answered that it left their skin feeling smooth and silky after use. B: 7 to 9 people answered that the skin felt smooth and silky after use. C: 4 to 6 people answered that the skin felt smooth and silky after use. D: Three or fewer people answered that the skin felt smooth and silky after use.

[0033] (4) Evaluation of pore blurring Each sample was applied to the face of 10 expert panelists, and a sensory evaluation of usability was conducted. <Evaluation criteria> A: All 10 people answered that it blurred their pores. B: 7 to 9 people answered that it blurred their pores. C: 4 to 6 people answered that it blurred their pores. D: Three or fewer people answered that it blurred their pores.

[0034] (5) Hardness (initial) The hardness of each cosmetic material was measured in an atmosphere of 25°C using a rheometer (COMPAC-100II manufactured by Sun Scientific Co., Ltd.; measurement with 11.3φ or 8φ, 10.0 mm needle penetration).

[0035] (6) Emulsion particle size Immediately after emulsification (initial stage), each cosmetic was observed under a microscope (Hirox Digital Microscope RH-2000. Lens used: MXB-5000REZ: High-Range: x1000), and the average particle size of the emulsified particles was measured five times. Here, the particle size is the particle size observed under a transmission electron microscope, and the average particle size is a value expressed as a circle-equivalent diameter, and is shown as the range of the five measurement results.

[0036] (7) Hardness stability The stability of each cosmetic was evaluated based on the following evaluation criteria. <Evaluation criteria> A: The condition of the cosmetic after 4 weeks is the same as when the cosmetic was prepared (initial state). B: After 4 weeks, the state of the cosmetic has decreased in hardness from when the cosmetic was prepared (initial state) or the emulsion particles are large, but is within the acceptable range for a cosmetic. C: After 4 weeks, the state of the cosmetic was such that the hardness had decreased from the time of preparation (initial state) of the cosmetic, or the emulsion particles had become larger, which was outside the acceptable range for a cosmetic.

[0037] [Table 1]

[0038] [Table 2]

[0039] [Table 3]

[0040] [Table 4]

Claims

1. (A) an α-hydroxy acid, (B) Viscosity at 25°C is 10,000 mm 2 / s or more polyether-modified silicone, and (C) Amino acid salt a cosmetic comprising the above-mentioned (A) α-hydroxy acid in an amount of 1.5 to 10% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic; the amino acid salt (C) is at least one selected from the group consisting of sodium L-glutamate and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salts, (D) further comprising a silicone elastomer; the blending amount of the (B) polyether-modified silicone is 0.1 to 10% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic; A cosmetic in which the blending amount of the amino acid salt (C) is 0.5 to 2% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

2. 2. The cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein the α-hydroxy acid (A) is at least one selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid.

3. 3. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the blending amount of the silicone elastomer (D) is 0.3 to 5% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

4. The cosmetic preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising (E) a powder.

5. 5. The cosmetic preparation according to claim 4, wherein the powder (E) is titanium oxide or amodimethicone-treated silica.

6. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.

7. The cosmetic preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is a cream.

Citation Information

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