Silicone-free inverse emulsion containing C3 or C4 alkanediol, glycerol, non-volatile vegetable oil, polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant, and volatile alkane

Abstract

The present patent application relates to a silicone-free composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) a continuous oily phase containing: i) at least one non-volatile vegetable oil; ii) at least one volatile alkane; b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase containing: c) at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant; d) at least one C3 or C4 alkanediol; e) at least glycerol. The invention also relates to a method for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratinous materials of a composition as defined above.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention is aimed at providing new compositions in the form of inverse emulsions for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, which are very particularly advantageous in terms of the quality of their technical performance and the sensory perception they impart to the user when applied to these keratinous materials, in particular the skin. [Background technology]

[0002] Cosmetic compositions, such as foundations, are often used not only to impart an aesthetic color to the skin, but also to make uneven skin appear more beautiful by making it possible to reduce the appearance of scars and pigmentation disorders, to reduce the appearance of imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and to conceal acne and acne scars; one of the main properties sought in this regard is coverage.

[0003] In the cosmetics field, water-in-oil emulsions, also called inverse emulsions, are particularly appreciated by consumers in the fields of foundations, sunscreens or moisturizing creams for their cosmetic properties, especially their comfort during application, which is reflected by the absence or significant reduction of tautness, dryness and / or stickiness and / or greasy effects, especially compared to "direct" oil-in-water emulsions.These same inverse emulsions also make it possible to incorporate large amounts of fillers and / or pigments and to obtain good uniformity during application, compared to direct emulsions.However, such compositions generally have the disadvantage of being difficult to stabilize.

[0004] Consumers are also increasingly looking for cosmetic products that are made entirely or partly from natural or naturally derived ingredients, either for reasons of improved skin tolerance or environmental protection.

[0005] The term "natural compound" is understood to mean a compound that is obtained from the earth or soil or directly from plants or animals, where appropriate via one or more physical methods such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0006] The term "naturally derived compound" is understood to mean a natural compound that has been subjected to one or more additional chemical or industrial processes, resulting in alterations that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound, and / or a compound that mainly contains natural components, with or without transformation. Non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial processes that result in modifications that do not affect the basic properties of natural compounds may include those approved by governing bodies such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or those defined in recognized handbooks in the field, such as (Non-Patent Document 1).

[0007] The use of non-volatile vegetable oils in the formulation of cosmetic compositions has been known for a long time: these oils have emollient and moisturizing properties, making it possible to impart excellent softness to the skin.

[0008] However, non-volatile vegetable oils can reduce emulsion stability due to their high polarity.In addition, these oils, especially when they are present in high content, can make the composition containing them excessively oily and sticky during and after application.In addition, they can cause greasiness, which can prove to be harmful to the desired cosmetic properties, especially in relation to skin care or makeup such as foundation.

[0009] The above-mentioned disadvantages may be particularly pronounced when the cosmetic composition is an inverse emulsion comprising an outer fatty layer.

[0010] In order to overcome these drawbacks, it has been proposed to combine these non-volatile vegetable oils with silicone oils, especially volatile silicone oils, to reduce their greasiness and stickiness, thus making the application of cosmetic compositions more convenient.However, this solution does not meet the expectations of consumers who are looking for cosmetics that are derived from "green chemistry", that is, cosmetics that are mainly composed of natural compounds or compounds of natural origin.

[0011] For obvious reasons, taking into account this expectation of users in the development of conventional emulsions poses difficulties, especially regarding incompatibilities between these "natural" compounds and traditionally maintained compounds, which are detrimental to emulsion stability.

[0012] Thus, as described in the patent (US Pat. No. 5,629,999), the use of polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactants, which constitute a suitable class of surfactants of natural origin, insofar as they result from an esterification reaction between polyglycerol and an acid of vegetable origin, can have a negative effect on the stability of the compositions containing them, in particular as reflected by coalescence problems.

[0013] To overcome this disadvantage, it has been proposed to introduce high levels of polyols into the aqueous phase of these emulsions to increase the stability of the compositions. Patent Documents 2 and 3 describe the use of polyols in emulsions containing polyglyceryl polyricinoleate.

[0014] However, this solution may cause a sticky feeling during application or after makeup application and is therefore not always satisfactory in terms of comfort during application, especially ease of application such as smoothness.

[0015] The patent (US Pat. No. 5,629,493) proposes an inverse emulsion comprising at least one naturally occurring volatile linear alkane, such as that described in Cognis' patent application (US Pat. No. 5,629,493), and at least one calcium carbonate.

[0016] Patent (US Pat. No. 6,399,499) also proposes an inverse emulsion comprising at least one volatile linear alkane such as that described in Cognis' patent application (US Pat. No. 6,399,499), at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate and at least one polyol, more particularly one selected from sorbitol in combination with glycerol.

[0017] However, these compositions are not entirely satisfactory in terms of stability, in terms of sensory properties, for example, lack of a sticky effect, lack of good comfort, for example ease of application, lack of good slip, etc. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0018] [Patent Document 1] German Patent No. 4409569 [Patent Document 2] U.S. Patent No. 6,013,255 [Patent Document 3] International Publication No. 2008 / 055692 Pamphlet [Patent Document 4] French Patent No. 2933868 [Patent Document 5] International Publication No. 2007 / 068371 Pamphlet [Patent Document 6] French Patent No. 2936154 [Non-patent literature]

[0019] [Non-Patent Document 1] “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”,2005,Vol.120,9:10 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0020] There is a need to find new cosmetic compositions for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, and in particular the skin, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions comprising natural or naturally occurring compounds, which are stable, exhibit good sensory makeup properties and are comfortable to apply, without the above-mentioned disadvantages. [Means for solving the problem]

[0021] During its research and studies, the Applicant Company has unexpectedly discovered that this objective can be achieved by using a silicone-free composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, which, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) a continuous oily phase, i) at least one non-volatile vegetable oil; ii) at least one volatile alkane; a continuous oily phase containing; b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; c) at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant; d) at least one C3 or C4 alkanediol; e) at least glycerol Includes.

[0022] This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.

[0023] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the invention provides a silicone-free composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) a continuous oily phase, i) at least one non-volatile vegetable oil; ii) at least one volatile alkane; a continuous oily phase containing; b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; c) at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant; d) at least one C3 or C4 alkanediol; e) at least glycerol The present invention relates to a silicone-free composition comprising:

[0024] The present invention also relates to a method for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application of a composition as defined above to the keratinous materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0025] definition The term "keratinous materials" in connection with the present invention is understood to mean in particular the skin (body, face, cheeks, around the eyes), lips, eyelashes and eyebrows. More particularly, the term "keratinous materials" is understood to mean the skin.

[0026] The term "physiologically acceptable" is understood to mean being compatible with the skin and / or its external bodily growth, exhibiting a pleasant color, odor and feel, not causing unacceptable discomfort (burning or tightness) that might dissuade consumers from using the composition.

[0027] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "water-in-oil emulsion", also called inverse emulsion, is understood to denote any composition consisting of a continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets, such that it appears to the naked eye as a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

[0028] The term "silicone" is understood to mean any compound containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0029] The term "silicone-free composition" is understood to mean any composition that contains less than 1.0% by weight of silicone compounds, practically even less than 0.5% by weight, practically even less than 0.1% by weight of silicone compounds relative to the total weight of the composition, and practically does not contain any silicone compounds.

[0030] oily phase The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises an oily phase containing at least one non-volatile vegetable oil and at least one volatile alkane.

[0031] The term "oil" is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0032] The compositions of the invention may comprise an oily phase content varying from 5% to 95% by weight, in particular from 10% to 80% by weight, in particular from 15% to 70% by weight and more particularly from 20% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] a) Vegetable oil The oily phase of the compositions of the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile vegetable oil.

[0034] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and in particular for at least 10 -3 It is understood to mean oils having a vapor pressure of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0035] Vegetable oils can be extracted from plant products either by simple cold pressing (virgin oil) or by hot pressing and refining (refined oil).

[0036] The non-volatile vegetable oils of the present invention are oils extracted directly from plants without chemical modification.

[0037] Nonvolatile materials suitable for the present invention plantOils include aloe oil, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, candlenut oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, cucumber seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, shea oil, alfalfa oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, and St. Joe's Mention may be made of: oatswort oil, millet oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, barley oil, palm oil, passion flower oil, poppy oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, red chestnut squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, rye oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, watermelon oil and mixtures thereof.

[0038] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile vegetable oils suitable for the present invention may be chosen in particular from macadamia oil, olive oil and mixtures thereof.

[0039] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 50% by weight of non-volatile vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight of vegetable oil, and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight of non-volatile vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] b) Volatile alkanes The oily phase of the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile alkane.

[0041] The term "alkane" is understood to mean any compound containing a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0042] The term "volatile alkane" suitable for the present invention refers to an alkane that can evaporate in less than one hour on contact with the skin at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 101325 Pa), is liquid at ambient temperature, and in particular has an evaporation rate of 0.01 to 15 mg / cm at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).2 / min cosmetic alkanes.

[0043] Examples of volatile alkanes that can be used in the oily phase of the compositions of the present invention include C8-C6 alkanes of petroleum origin. 16 Mention may be made of branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®. More particularly, isododecane will be used.

[0044] Examples of volatile alkanes that can be used in the oily phase of the compositions of the present invention include volatile linear C6-C 19 Alkanes may be mentioned.

[0045] Examples of linear alkanes suitable for the present invention include the alkanes (mixtures of alkanes differing by at least one carbon) described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which themselves are obtained from copra oil or palm oil.

[0046] Examples of linear alkanes suitable for the present invention include n-hexane (C6), n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-hexane (C11), n-hexane (C12), n-hexane (C13), n-hexane (C14), n-hexane (C15), n-hexane (C16), n-hexane (C17), n-hexane (C18), n-hexane (C19), n 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ), n-tetradecane (C 14 ) and mixtures thereof.

[0047] In particular, n-dodecane (C ) sold by Sasol under the product numbers Parafol 12-97® and Parafol 14-97®, respectively. 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14) as well as mixtures thereof.

[0048] According to one embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane can be used, in particular the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in a mass ratio of 85 / 15 sold by Biosynthis under the product number Vegelight 1214 (Copyright).

[0049] According to yet another embodiment, a volatile linear C9-C with C9-12 alkanes, such as the product sold by Biosynthis under the INCI name Vegelight Silk (©) 12 A mixture of alkanes is used.

[0050] More particularly, n-undecane (C ), such as that obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and that sold under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate® by BASF, are preferred. 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) is used in combination.

[0051] Preferably, the volatile alkane is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight, in particular from 1% to 50% by weight, and more particularly from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] c) additional fixed oil According to a particular embodiment, the oily phase may comprise at least one additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (different from the non-volatile vegetable oils described above).

[0053] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functional groups.

[0054] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and in particular for at least 10-3 It is understood to mean oils having a vapor pressure of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0055] Among the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention are phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203); fatty esters such as diisopropyl sebacate (Stearineries Dubois, DUB DIS), isopropyl myristate (Stearineries Dubois, DUB DIS), isopropyl palmitate (Oleon, Radia 7732); triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids being C4-C6 36 , especially C 18 ~C 36 Mention may be made of oils such as glycerols, which may have chain lengths varying from 0 to 100, which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, and which may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel.

[0056] Mention may also be made of squalane, such as the product sold under the trade name Neossance Squalane® by Aprinova.

[0057] Mention may also be made of dialkyl ether oils having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, for example the product sold under the trade name Rofetan OE / MB® by Ecogreen Oleochemicals or the product sold under the trade name Cetiol OE / MB® by BASF.

[0058] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a mixture of squalane and dicaprylyl ether is used.

[0059] Preferably, the one or more additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are present in a concentration of less than or equal to 50% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment, the mass ratio of the total amount of vegetable oil to the total amount of volatile alkanes varies from 1 / 40 to 1 / 1, preferably from 1 / 20 to 1 / 5.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile vegetable oils and the total amount of additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oils to the total amount of volatile alkanes varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1, preferably from 1 / 4 to 1 / 1.

[0062] aqueous phase The aqueous phase comprises water and, optionally, water-soluble or water-miscible components, such as water-soluble solvents.

[0063] Water suitable for the present invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche-Posay water and / or thermal water.

[0064] The composition of the invention may comprise water in a content varying from 5% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 20% to 65% by weight, and even more preferably from 30% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] The composition according to the invention contains at least glycerol, which is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate Surfactant The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant.

[0067] In the context of the present invention, the term "surfactant" is understood to mean an amphiphilic compound, i.e., a compound exhibiting two moieties of different polarity. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase), and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value, which is the ratio of the hydrophilic and lipophilic moieties in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifying surfactants used in the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions, their HLB value is generally below 8, more particularly in the range of 3 to 8. The HLB value can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0068] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "polyglyceryl polyricinoleate" means an ester resulting from the esterification of one or more polyglycerols with at least one polyricinoleic acid.

[0069] Polyglycerols suitable for the present invention have the following general formula (I): [Chemical formula 1] [ka] (wherein n represents an integer of 1 to 11, particularly an integer of 1 to 7) The compound may be selected from the following compounds:

[0070] The polyricinoleic acids suitable herein have the following general formula (II): [Chemical formula 2] [ka] (wherein m represents an integer of 0 to 10, particularly an integer of 1 to 8, more particularly an integer of 1 to 5). The compound may be selected from the following compounds:

[0071] The polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactants suitable for the present invention can be full esters or partial esters.

[0072] Preferably, the polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactants suitable herein are partial esters.

[0073] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "partial ester" is understood to mean compounds in which not all the -OH groups of the polyglycerol units are esterified with polyricinoleic acid, in other words polyglyceryl polyricinoleate compounds which contain at least one free -OH group on the polyglycerol chain.

[0074] By way of example, polyglyceryl polyricinoleates suitable for the present invention may be of the following general formula (III): [Chemical formula 3] [ka] wherein R and R' represent, indistinguishably, a group selected from a hydrogen atom or a polyricinoleate chain, provided that at least one of these R or R' groups is a polyricinoleate chain. The compound may be:

[0075] Preferably, at least one of the R or R' groups of the polyglycerol chain is a hydrogen atom.

[0076] According to one embodiment, polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactants suitable for the present invention may exhibit an HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) of 3-8.

[0077] Examples of polyricinolein acid polyglyceryl surfactants that are particularly suitable for the invention include polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, in particular that sold under the name Akoline PGPR® by Karlshamns, or that sold under the name DUB PGPR by Stearinerie Dubois Fils, or that sold under the name Dermofeel® by Dr. Straetmans, or that sold under the name Crester PR® by Croda, or that sold under the name Imwitor 600® by Sasol; polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate sold under the name Sunsoft No. 818R® by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd; that sold under the name Hexaglyn PR-15® by Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd, or that sold under the name S-Face CR-1001® by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Mention may be made of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate sold by Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd under the name Decaglyn PR-20®; polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleate sold by Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd under the name Decaglyn PR-20®.

[0078] According to one embodiment, mixtures of these compounds may be utilized.

[0079] More particularly, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant suitable for the present invention is polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate.

[0080] The composition of the invention preferably comprises from 2% to 10% by weight of polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant, in particular from 3% to 8% by weight, more particularly from 4% to 7% by weight of polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] C3 or C4 alkanediol The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C3 or C4 alkanediol.

[0082] The term "C3 or C4 alkanediol" is understood to mean any saturated, linear or branched alkane containing a hydrocarbon chain containing only hydrogen atoms, 3 or 4 carbon atoms and two hydroxyl groups in different positions.

[0083] They may be selected from 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (INCI name methylpropanediol), 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol (INCI name propanediol), 1,2-butanediol (or 1,2-butylene glycol), 1,4-butanediol (or tetramethylene glycol), 2,3-butanediol (or 2,3-butylene glycol) or 1,3-butanediol (INCI name butylene glycol).

[0084] More particularly, 1,3-propanediol (INCI name Propanediol) is used.

[0085] The composition of the present invention preferably comprises 0.1% to 10% by weight of C3 or C4 alkanediol, in particular 0.5% to 8% by weight, more particularly 1% to 5% by weight of C3 or C4 alkanediol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the mass ratio of the total amount of alkanediols to the total amount of glycerol varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1, preferably from 1 / 4 to 1 / 1.

[0087] sugar alcohols According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one sugar alcohol.

[0088] The term "sugar alcohol" refers to a sugar containing only a hydroxyl functional group. These sugar alcohols differ from ketoses and aldoses, which contain a ketone or aldehyde functional group. Sugar alcohols are described in detail in the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, John Wiley and Sons, "Sugar Alcohols" article, 2005.

[0089] Preferably, the sugar alcohols that can be used in the compositions according to the invention have the general formula: [Chemical formula 4] HO-CH2-(CHOH) n -CH2-OH (wherein n is an integer ranging from 2 to 5) Corresponds to.

[0090] Preferentially, the sugar alcohol is chosen from erythritol, sorbitol, threitol, ribitol, arabinitol, allitol, dulcitol, iditol, altritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, xylitol and mixtures of these compounds.

[0091] Particularly preferably, the sugar alcohol is sorbitol (INCI name: sorbitol or hydrogenated starch hydrolysate).

[0092] The composition according to the invention preferably contains from 1% to 15% by weight of sugar alcohol relative to the total weight of the composition, even more preferentially from 2% to 12% by weight and even better still from 4% to 10% by weight of sugar alcohol.

[0093] Saturated and linear C7-C 14 Monoesters of carboxylic acids and glycerol According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises saturated and linear C7-C 14 It additionally comprises at least one monoester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol.

[0094] Saturated and linear C7-C6 14 Among the monoesters of carboxylic acids and glycerol, - Glyceryl heptanoate (C7), such as products having the trade name Lexgard Natural GH70® (Inolex Inc.); - Glyceryl caprylate (C8), such as products with the trade name AEC Glyceryl Caprylate® (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); Capmul 708G (Copyright) (Abitec Corporation); Cremercoor GC 8® (IOI Oleo GmbH); Dermosoft GMCY® (Dr. Straetmans GmbH); DUB 8G® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); Imwitor 308® and Imwitor 988® (IOI Oleo GmbH); Lexgard GMCY MB® (Inolex Inc.); Oristar GCC (Orient Stars LLC); Sunsoft 707® and Sunsoft 700 P-2® (Taiyo Kagaku Company Ltd.); 104528 Symlite G8® (Symrise); - Caprylic (C8) / Capric (C) acid, such as products with the trade name AEC Caprylic / Capric Glyceryl (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); Cremercoor GC810 (IOI Oleo GmbH); Dub 810 G (Stearinerie Dubois Fils) 10 ) glyceryl; Capric acid (C), such as products with the trade name Capmul MCM C-10® (Abitec Corporation); Dermosoft GMC® (Dr. Straetmans GmbH); AEC Glyceryl Caprate® (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); Lexgard GMC® (Inolex Inc.); Sunsoft 760 (Taiyo Kagaku Company Ltd). 10 ) glyceryl; - Lauric acid (C), such as products with the trade name AEC Glyceryl Laurate® (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); Colonial Monolaurin® (Colonial Chemical Inc.); DUB LG® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); Jeechem MLD® (Jeen International Corporation); Lauricidin (Med-Chem Labs Inc.); Monomuls 90-L 12 (BASF Corporation); Oristar GL (Orient Stars LLC); Pelemol GMLA® (Phoenix Chemical Inc.); Protachem MLD® (Protameen Chemicals); Sunsoft 750® (Taiyo Kagaku Company Ltd); Ultrapure GML® (Ultra Chemical, Inc.) 12 ) glyceryl; - Myristic acid (C), such as products containing AEC Glyceryl Myristate® (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); Cithrol GMM (Croda Europe); DUB MG (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); Nikkol MGM (Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd); Oristar GMA (Orient Stars LLC); Sunsoft 8002 (Taiyo Kagaku Company Ltd); 14 ) glyceryl; and - A mixture of these may be mentioned.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, glyceryl caprylate is used.

[0096] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.05% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of saturated and linear C7-C 14 Monoesters of carboxylic acids with glycerol, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.2% to 1% by weight, of saturated and linear C7-C 14 It contains a monoester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol.

[0097] Monoalcohol According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally comprises at least one linear or branched monoalcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0098] The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more monoalcohols.

[0099] The monoalcohol can be represented, for example, by the formula RaOH, where Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0100] Monoalcohols may include ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a monoalcohol chosen from isopropanol, ethanol and mixtures thereof.

[0102] According to an advantageous embodiment, the amount of monoalcohol varies from 2% to 15% by weight, preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] powder colorant According to a particular form of the invention, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one powder colorant.

[0104] The powder colorant may be selected from pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.

[0105] The term "pigments" is understood to mean white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous medium and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments can be white or colored and of inorganic and / or organic material.

[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.

[0107] The term "inorganic pigment" is understood to mean any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter "Pigments, Inorganic" of Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Among the inorganic pigments used in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide or metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2 or ZnS may also be used.

[0108] The diameter of pigments useful in connection with the present invention may generally range from above 100 nm up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0109] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigment diameter is characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 μm, preferably between 200 nm and 5 μm, more preferably between 300 nm and 1 μm.

[0110] Particle size is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvern, which allows the size distribution of all particles to be determined over a wide range that can range from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory is most appropriate for size distributions ranging from sub-μm to multimicron; it allows the determination of "effective" particle sizes. This theory is described, inter alia, in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0111] D

[50] represents the maximum size representing 50% by volume of the particles.

[0112] According to a particular form of the invention, the inorganic pigments comprise a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter preferably being present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0113] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment may be coated in accordance with the present invention with at least one compound selected from silicone surface treatment agents, metal soaps, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, phospholipids and mixtures thereof.

[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, pigments can be coated in accordance with the present invention with one of the N-acylamino acids or their salts, which can contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl groups. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, pigments can be coated with, in particular, glutamic acid derivatives and / or their salts, more particularly stearoyl glutamates, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and the black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold by Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name Nai®.

[0115] According to a preferred embodiment, pigments can be coated with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate according to the present invention. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold by Kobo under the trade names BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI 77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI 77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate).

[0116] The pigments that can be used according to the present invention can also be organic pigments.

[0117] The term "organic pigment" is understood to mean any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter "Pigments, Organic" of Ullmann's Encyclopaedia. The organic pigment may be chosen in particular from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds of the metal complex type.

[0118] Organic pigments include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments classified in the Colour Index under the numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Colour Index under the numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments numbered in the Colour Index under the symbols CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments classified in the Colour Index under the numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, red pigments classified in the Colour Index under the symbols CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, The red pigments may be selected from those classified under the numbers 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives, as described in French Patent No. 2 679 771.

[0119] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, such as those described in EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may in particular consist of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder that fixes the organic pigment to the core.

[0120] The pigment may also be a lake, the term "lake" being understood to mean an insolubilized pigment adsorbed onto an insoluble particle, the resulting mass remaining insoluble during use.

[0121] Inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0122] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053) or D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0123] As an example of a lake, mention may be made of the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0124] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise powdered colorants of the inorganic pigment type, in particular metal oxides, in particular coated or uncoated titanium dioxide or iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] The pearlescent agent may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide coated mica with iron oxide, in particular titanium oxide coated mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide or titanium oxide coated mica with organic pigments of the type mentioned above, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0126] Preferably, the colorant is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Cosmetic Composition The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0128] The physiologically acceptable medium is usually adapted to the nature of the substrate to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0129] The compositions according to the invention may additionally comprise additives customary in care and / or makeup products, such as: - active agents such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C or B3; - Sunscreen; - additional colorants; - fillers; - hydrophilic gelling agents; - lipophilic gelling agents; - air fresheners; - preservatives; and - A mixture of these.

[0130] It is a matter of routine for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of additives present in the composition according to the invention so that the cosmetic properties required for the composition are not affected by the additives.

[0131] Additional colorants The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one additional water-soluble or liposoluble colorant, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] For obvious reasons, this amount is subject to wide variation depending on the strength of the color effect desired and the intensity of the color imparted by the colorant under consideration, adjustment of which is clearly within the ability of one skilled in the art.

[0133] Additional colorants suitable for the present invention may be fat-soluble.

[0134] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "liposoluble colorant" is understood to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic, compound that is soluble in an oily phase or solvent that is miscible with fatty substances and that is capable of imparting color.

[0135] In particular, fat-soluble dyes suitable for the present invention may include synthetic or natural fat-soluble color dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto or curcumin.

[0136] Additional colorants suitable for the present invention may be water-soluble.

[0137] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" is understood to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic, compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or in a water-miscible solvent and is capable of imparting color.

[0138] In particular, water-soluble dyes suitable for the present invention may include synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus or elderberry), caramel or riboflavin.

[0139] Filler The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler making it possible to endow it with additional properties, in particular improved stability, wear resistance, coverage and / or mattness.

[0140] The term "fillers" should be understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape, provided in insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, inorganic or organic, make it possible to impart viscosity or rigidity to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0141] The filler may be an inorganic or organic material.

[0142] Preferably, they will be selected from natural or naturally occurring fillers.

[0143] The fillers used in the compositions according to the invention may be in lamellar, spherical, spherical or fibrous form, or in any other form intermediate between these defined forms.

[0144] The fillers according to the invention may be surface-coated or not, in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance that enhances the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0145] Examples of inorganic fillers that may be mentioned include talc, natural or synthetic mica, such as synthetic fluorphlogopite, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules or composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0146] More preferentially, inorganic fillers will be used selected from natural or synthetic mica, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0147] Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned include micronized natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powders, such as those sold by Daito in the Cellulobeads range®.

[0148] Preferably, the filler is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] Gelling agent Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more gelling agents that are hydrophilic, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water, and / or one or more gelling agents that are lipophilic, i.e., soluble or dispersible in oil, can be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention.

[0150] Preferably, the hydrophilic and / or lipophilic gelling agents will be selected from natural or naturally occurring gelling agents.

[0151] In particular, hydrophilic gelling agents may include polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenan, gellan, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] For example, lipophilic gelling agents may include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38® from Rheox), hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: disteardimonium hectorite) such as the product sold by Rheox under the name "Bentone 38 CE®".

[0153] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprises, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a continuous oily phase comprising at least (i) a mixture of undecane and tridecane; (ii) macadamia oil and / or olive oil; a continuous oily phase comprising: b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; c) with polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; d) with at least 1,3-propanediol; e) at least glycerol Includes.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment, said composition additionally comprises f) at least one sugar alcohol, more particularly sorbitol.

[0155] According to certain embodiments, the composition comprises g) saturated and linear C7-C 14 It additionally comprises at least one monoester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol, more particularly glyceryl caprylate.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment, the composition additionally comprises h) at least one pigment chosen from iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof, or chosen from iron oxide coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, titanium dioxide coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and mixtures thereof.

[0157] According to a particular embodiment, the composition additionally comprises i) at least one inorganic filler, more particularly an inorganic filler chosen from natural or synthetic mica, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0158] According to a particular embodiment, the composition additionally comprises j) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent that is natural or of natural origin and / or at least one lipophilic gelling agent that is natural or of natural origin, more preferentially chosen from denatured clays, and more particularly a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), such as the product sold under the name "Bentone 38 CE®" by Rheox or the product "Bentone 38VCG" from Elementis.

[0159] Applicable According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for caring for the skin, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the skin of the face.

[0160] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up keratinous materials, in particular of the body or of the face, in particular the skin of the face.

[0161] Thus, according to a sub-aspect of this embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a base composition for makeup.

[0162] The composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a foundation.

[0163] According to another sub-aspect of this embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up the skin and in particular the face: it may thus be an eye shadow or a face powder.

[0164] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0165] stability According to the present invention, the term "stable emulsion" is understood to mean a homogeneous and uniform (water-in-oil) emulsion whose appearance does not change on a macroscopic and microscopic scale for one month at 45° C. The emulsion does not undergo phase separation (separation of aqueous and fatty phases) and does not release oil.

[0166] The stability of the compositions of the invention can be assessed using one of the following protocols.

[0167] The stability of compositions according to the invention can be assessed, for example, by monitoring the change in globule size of the aqueous phase over time.

[0168] If the average size of the globules of the composition increases over time, this leads to the phenomenon of inhomogeneity and means that the composition is subject to coalescence problems, which reflects the instability of the composition.

[0169] This monitoring of the change in size of the globules can be carried out by particle size measurement.

[0170] As examples of protocols suitable for the present invention, the following may be mentioned:

[0171] Particle size measurements are carried out on 25 ml samples of the compositions to be analysed on the day of their manufacture and after storage at 45° C. for 14, 30 and 60 days.

[0172] These measurements can be carried out using a MasterSizer 2000® particle size analyzer from Malvern Instruments, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution by light diffraction. From the particle size analyzer it is then possible to obtain the value of the volume mean diameter, denoted D[4,3] and expressed in μm.

[0173] Emulsion stability can also be assessed by visual evaluation. For example, the stability of a composition can be assessed by observing the degree of sedimentation that occurs in a sample of the composition after storage at 45° C. for one month.

[0174] Alternatively, the stability of a composition can be assessed by observing samples of the composition at 10x magnification after 14, 30 and 60 days of storage at ambient temperature (i.e., 25°C).

[0175] Its microscopic appearance must remain close to the initial appearance. In particular, no deterioration of the emulsion (coarser emulsion background, aggregation reflected by the presence of many large droplets, alteration of the preparation edge, presence of crystals) must be observed.

[0176] Alternatively, the stability of the composition can be assessed according to any protocol known to those of skill in the art.

[0177] Throughout this specification, including the claims, the word "comprises" should be understood as synonymous with "comprises at least one," unless otherwise specified.

[0178] The expressions "to" and "in the range of" should be understood to mean that the limits are inclusive unless otherwise specified.

[0179] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following examples and figures, in which, unless otherwise specified, the amounts given are expressed as % by weight. [Example]

[0180] Examples 1 and 2 (invention) and Counterexamples 1, 2, 3, and 4 (outside the scope of the invention) Compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention and counter-examples 1, 2, 3 and 4 outside the scope of the invention were prepared.

[0181] [Table 1]

[0182] [Table 2]

[0183] Protocol for preparation of the composition The compositions of the invention are prepared by preparing a pigment-free white base to which the pigment preparation is added in a second step.

[0184] a) Preparation of the white base Oily phase A1 was introduced into the main beaker, which was placed on a magnetic heating plate (magnetic bar stirring at 200 rev / min, 60° C.).

[0185] Hectorite was then introduced with stirring for 15 minutes until a homogeneous mixture was obtained (A2).

[0186] The mixture is then cooled to ambient temperature and maintained under stirring, then phases A3 and A4 are added under stirring for 5 minutes. Finally, phase A5 is introduced under continued stirring.

[0187] Aqueous Phase B was prepared by adding water heated to 95°C to a pre-weighed mixture of the other starting materials for this phase.

[0188] The emulsion was formed at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase was poured into the fat phase while gradually increasing the stirring speed to 4500 revolutions / minute, and blending was carried out using a Mortiz type homogenizer.

[0189] Stirring was maintained for 10 minutes, after which the alcohol (phase C) was introduced and the mixture was left stirring for 5 minutes.

[0190] b) White-based coloring The white base was introduced into a beaker, then phase D was added slowly with stirring, and the stirring was maintained under vortex for 20 minutes. Blending was carried out using a Rayneri-type homogenizer.

[0191] Protocol and test results a) Protocol for the evaluation of sensory properties Each composition was stored for 24 hours at 25° C. After cleansing the model's face, 0.1 ml of the composition to be tested was applied to one cheek and massaged in a circular motion, spreading with the fingers to set the foundation in place.

[0192] The evaluation criteria are play time (time to apply the composition to the skin), followed by stickiness, greasiness and dryness of the skin 5 minutes after application.

[0193] b) Protocol for the assessment of stability: The stability of each composition was assessed after 1 month at 45°C by observing its macroscopic appearance and its microscopic properties using a Leica DM2500 microscope.

[0194] The results of the tests are shown in Tables 2 and 3 below.

[0195] [Table 3]

[0196] The results of the test showed that Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention, which comprise glycerol and a C3 or C4 alkanediol (propanediol or butylene glycol) and a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant, both exhibited good playtime and left skin feeling smooth (non-greasy, non-drying) and non-sticky after application. Counterexample 1, which has the same composition but does not contain a C3 or C4 alkanediol; Counterexample 2: Identical composition but without glycerol This indicates that it is different from

[0197] [Table 4]

[0198] The results of the test showed that Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention, which comprise glycerin, a C3 or C4 alkanediol (propanediol or butylene glycol), and a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant, Counterexample 1, which has the same composition but does not contain a C3 or C4 alkanediol; Counterexample 3, which has the same composition but contains a C5 alkanediol (pentylene glycol), - Counterexample 4 of the same composition in which the polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate surfactant is replaced by polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate Unlike the above, it is stable.

Claims

1. 1. A silicone-free composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising: a) a continuous oily phase, i) Aloe oil, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, candlenut oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, cucumber seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, shea oil, alfalfa oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, mi at least one fixed vegetable oil selected from lettuce oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, barley oil, palm oil, passion flower oil, poppy oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, red chestnut squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, rye oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, watermelon oil and mixtures thereof; ii) at least one volatile alkane selected from branched alkanes and volatile linear C 6 -C 19 alkanes; a continuous oily phase containing; b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; and c) at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant; d) at least one C ３ or C ４ with an alkanediol; e) at least glycerol 1. A silicone-free composition comprising:

2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising an oily phase in a content varying from 5% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the non-volatile vegetable oil is selected from macadamia oil, olive oil, and mixtures thereof.

4. 10. The composition of claim 1, comprising in the range of 0.5% to 50% by weight of non-volatile vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The volatile alkane is a petroleum-derived C ８ ~C １６ The composition of claim 1 , wherein the isoalkane is selected from isoalkanes.

6. The volatile alkane is n-hexane (C ６ ), n-heptane (C ７ ), n-octane (C ８ ), n-nonane (C ９ ), n-decane (C １０ ), n-undecane (C １１ ), n-dodecane (C １２ ), n-tridecane (C １３ ), n-tetradecane (C １４ 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydroxybenzoate is selected from the group consisting of hydroxybenzoates, ...

7. The volatile alkane is a volatile linear C alkane having the INCI name: C9-12 alkane ９ ~C １２ The composition of claim 6 which is a mixture of alkanes.

8. The volatile alkane is n-undecane (C １１ ) and n-tridecane (C １３ 7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the composition is a mixture of

9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the volatile alkane is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the oily phase further comprises at least one additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

11. 11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is present in a concentration of 50% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile vegetable oils to the total amount of volatile alkanes varies from 1 / 40 to 1 / 1.

13. 11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile vegetable oil and non-volatile hydrocarbon oil to the total amount of volatile alkane varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1.

14. 2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising water in a content varying from 5% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition of claim 1, wherein the glycerol is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant is polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate.

17. 10. The composition of claim 1, comprising from 2% to 10% by weight of a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant, based on the total weight of the composition.

18. Said C ３ or C ４ The composition of claim 1, wherein the alkanediol is selected from 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, or 1,3-butanediol.

19. Said C ３ or C ４ The composition of claim 1, wherein the alkanediol is 1,3-propanediol.

20. Said C ３ or C ４ The composition of claim 1, wherein the alkanediol is present in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of alkanediols to the total amount of glycerol varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1.

22. The composition of claim 1 additionally comprising at least one sugar alcohol.

23. 23. The composition of claim 22, wherein the sugar alcohol is selected from erythritol, sorbitol, threitol, ribitol, arabinitol, allitol, dulcitol, iditol, altritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, and mixtures thereof.

24. 23. The composition according to claim 22, comprising 1% to 15% by weight of sugar alcohol relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. Saturated and linear C ７ ~C １４ 10. The composition of claim 1, additionally comprising at least one monoester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol.

26. Saturated and linear C ７ ~C １４ The monoester of carboxylic acid and glycerol is - heptanoic acid (C ７ ) glyceryl; - Caprylic acid (C ８ ) glyceryl; - Caprylic acid (C ８ ) / Capric acid (C １０ ) glyceryl; - Capric acid (C １０ ) glyceryl; - Lauric acid (C １２ ) glyceryl; - Myristic acid (C １４ ) glyceryl; - their mixtures 26. The composition of claim 25, wherein the composition is selected from:

27. 0.05% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of saturated and linear C ７ ~C １４ 26. The composition of claim 25, comprising a monoester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol.

28. 10. The composition of claim 1, additionally comprising at least one linear or branched monoalcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

29. 29. The composition according to claim 28, wherein the amount of monoalcohol varies from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

30. The composition of claim 1, additionally comprising at least one powder colorant.

31. The composition of claim 1 additionally comprising at least one filler.

32. The composition of claim 1 , additionally comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and / or at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

33. 33. The composition of claim 32, comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from denatured clays.

34. A method for coating keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 33.

Images