Cosmetic composition for improving the appearance of skin

The cosmetic composition using aluminum starch octenyl succinate and a polyacrylate emulsifier addresses the challenge of long-lasting skin imperfection concealment and matte finish, achieving enhanced oil control, moisturization, brightening, and pore blurring.

JP7802703B2Active Publication Date: 2026-01-20UNILEVER IP HLDG BV
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2022579024
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2020-06-23
Filing Date
2021-06-10
Publication Date
2026-01-20
Estimated Expiration
2041-06-10

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions fail to provide a long-lasting, matte, non-greasy appearance while effectively concealing skin imperfections such as wrinkles, fine lines, and uneven skin tone, and achieving a healthy glow.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising aluminum starch octenyl succinate and Starch Aluminum Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate, in a specific weight ratio, combined with a polyacrylate emulsifier and other ingredients, to create a self-emulsifying, shear-thinning emulsion that provides oil control, moisturizing, skin brightening, and pore blurring effects.

Benefits of technology

The composition effectively improves skin appearance by providing at least 12 hours of oil control, 8 hours of moisturization, 4-12 hours of skin brightening, and 4-12 hours of pore blurring, while maintaining a matte finish and enhancing skin texture.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

Cosmetic compositions are disclosed that include i) aluminum starch octenyl succinate and ii) an ingredient having the INCI name aluminum starch octenyl succinate (and) acrylates copolymer (and) magnesium carbonate.
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for improving the appearance of skin. [Background technology]

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving the appearance of the skin, preferably in an immediately noticeable manner. Furthermore, such improvement is preferably long-lasting. Alternatively, such improvement can be easily perceived by eye, although machines can be used for this purpose.

[0003] Wrinkles and fine lines can be perceived primarily as dark, non-reflective areas due to the way light strikes and remains there. In contrast, when light is reflected and diffused, the wrinkles are less noticeable. Methods have been developed to shine light onto the wrinkles and instantly remove the dark areas. Materials that produce optical blurring are used. This is called the "soft-focus effect" and was described by Dr. Emmert in "Quantification of the Soft-Focus Effect," Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 111, 57-61 (1996). Soft focus, or blurring, is a technique that can be used to hide or cover external or superficial imperfections in the skin. Incident light is distorted by scattering (lensing).

[0004] The skin sometimes produces more sebum, and this can happen at any age. Most of us desire a matte, non-greasy appearance for our skin, especially the skin on our face.

[0005] Aging brings about changes in the appearance of the skin, with some individuals concerned by the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, or an overall unevenness in skin tone.

[0006] Our skin is susceptible to deterioration due to environmental factors such as skin diseases, strong sunlight, and the normal aging process (chronoaging), which can be accelerated by exposure to sunlight (photoaging). In recent years, the demand for cosmetic compositions and methods for improving the appearance of skin has increased dramatically. Consumers are increasingly seeking cosmetic compositions to treat, delay, or cover the visible signs of chronoaging and photoaging skin, such as wrinkles, fine lines, sagging skin, hyperpigmentation, and age spots.

[0007] While it is desirable to conceal imperfections with a mattifying effect, it is also desirable to achieve a healthy glow. Cosmetics that are too opaque hide the skin beneath a paint-like coating, which some people call skin whitening or brightening.

[0008] Brazilian Patent Application No. 102017025745A2 (UNIV SAO PAULO, 2017) discloses a cosmetic base that provides a dry, pleasant feel without leaving an oily residue. The composition contains 3-10% tapioca starch and 3-10% corn starch. The two starches are said to act synergistically.

[0009] U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2020000721 ​​(Medreleaf) discloses an aqueous composition containing a rheology modifier, the rheology modifier including a water-swellable polymer and a co-emulsifier suitable for preparing an oil-containing cream formulation. In one example, the composition includes a rheology modifier including PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate, glycerin, a co-emulsifier such as sodium polyacrylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, and polysorbate 20, and an antibacterial agent. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0010] [Patent Document 1] Brazilian Patent Application No. 102017025745A2 (UNIV SAO PAULO, 2017) [Patent Document 2] U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2020000721 ​​(Medreleaf) [Non-patent literature]

[0011] [Non-Patent Document 1] "Quantification of the Soft-Focus Effect", Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 111, 57-61 (1996) Summary of the Invention

[0012] The inventors have determined that a combination of two cosmetic ingredients, when used in a particular weight ratio, provides various cosmetic benefits to the skin, including brightening and moisturizing.

[0013] According to a first aspect, i) aluminum starch octenyl succinate; ii) an ingredient having the INCI name Starch Aluminum Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate; A cosmetic composition comprising: The cosmetic composition is disclosed, wherein the weight ratio of the component having the INCI name of aluminum starch octenyl succinate (and) acrylates copolymer (and) magnesium carbonate to the aluminum starch octenyl succinate in the cosmetic composition is 1:0.5 to 1:5.

[0014] According to a second aspect, there is disclosed use of the cosmetic composition of the first aspect for improving at least one property of the skin, preferably oil control, moisturizing, skin brightening, or skin pore blurring.

[0015] According to a third aspect, there is disclosed a method for improving at least one property of skin, comprising treating the skin with the cosmetic product of the first aspect, preferably the at least one property being oil control, moisturizing, skin brightening, or skin pore blurring.

[0016] All other aspects of the present invention will become more readily apparent in light of the following detailed description and examples. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] definition "Skin" as used herein is intended to include the skin of the face, neck, scalp, underarms, chest, back, arms, hands, legs, scalp, feet, buttocks, and abdomen, preferably the skin of the hands, neck, face, and underarms.

[0018] External skin imperfections refer to and include pigmented spots (age spots, blemishes), pores, fine lines and wrinkles, and furrows (the terms "lines," "wrinkles," and furrows are used interchangeably herein). As used herein, "age spots" refers to any hyperpigmentation (including, for example, solar lentigines), age spots, and / or freckles.

[0019] The terms treating or treatment as used herein include within their scope the reduction, delay and / or prevention of the above skin conditions, as well as the overall enhancement of the quality of the skin and improvement of its appearance and texture.

[0020] As used herein, the term "cosmetic composition" is intended to include compositions for topical application to mammalian, particularly human, skin. Such compositions can generally be classified as leave-on or rinse-off, but are preferably leave-on. The compositions can be in the form of a liquid, lotion, cream, foam, scrub, gel, or toner, or can be applied with an implement or by a face mask or pad. Non-limiting examples include leave-on skin lotions, creams, foundations, sunless tanners, and sunscreen lotions.

[0021] Except in the examples or where expressly indicated otherwise, all numbers herein indicating quantities of ingredients or reaction conditions, physical properties and / or uses of ingredients may be understood to be modified, in some cases, by the word "about." All amounts are by weight of the final composition unless otherwise specified. As used herein, the term "solid" means that the material is not flowable at 25°C. It should be noted that when specifying any numerical range, a given upper limit may be associated with any lower limit. For the avoidance of doubt, the term "comprising" is intended to mean "including," but not necessarily "consisting of" or "composed of." In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. The disclosure of the invention found herein should be considered to cover all embodiments found in the claims as multiple dependents on each other, notwithstanding the fact that the claims may be multiple dependents or non-overlapping.

[0022] Where features are disclosed with respect to particular embodiments of the invention (e.g., compositions of the invention), such disclosure should be considered to apply mutatis mutandis to all other embodiments of the invention (e.g., methods of the invention).

[0023] The present invention provides i) aluminum starch octenyl succinate; ii) an ingredient having the INCI name Starch Aluminum Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate; A cosmetic composition comprising: The cosmetic composition has an INCI name of aluminum starch octenyl succinate (and) acrylates copolymer (and) magnesium carbonate, and a weight ratio of the aluminum starch octenyl succinate in the cosmetic composition of 1:0.5 to 1:5.

[0024] INCI standard for the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. The INCI system was established in the early 1970s by the Personal Care Products Council (formerly CTFA, the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association), and the list is maintained by the Personal Care Products Council. INCI names are used in the United States, the European Union, China, Japan, and many other countries to list ingredients on cosmetic product labels. With few exceptions, the INCI label names in all countries are the same.

[0025] For more information on INCI names, please visit: It can be found at http: / / webdictionary.personalcarecouncil.org / jsp / Home.jsp.

[0026] Preferably, the composition comprises 0.1 to 5% by weight of the ingredient having the INCI name Starch Aluminum Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate.

[0027] More preferably, the composition contains 0.5 to 15% by weight of the aluminum starch octenyl succinate, and the weight ratio of the component having the INCI name "aluminum starch octenyl succinate (and) acrylates copolymer (and) magnesium carbonate" to the aluminum starch octenyl succinate in the composition is 1:0.5 to 1:5.

[0028] Aluminum starch octenyl succinate is a chemically modified starch, particularly starch that has undergone esterification. Such aluminum starch octenyl succinate is commercially available from suppliers such as Akzo Nobel or Nouryon under the names Dry Flo® Pure and Dry Flo® PC. Various other suppliers sell aluminum starch octenyl succinate under their own brand names. In cosmetics and personal care products, aluminum starch octenyl succinate is used in the formulation of lotions, powders, makeup, and underarm deodorants. Aluminum starch octenyl succinate is used as a thickener and binder, an anti-caking agent, and an oil absorbent.

[0029] An ingredient with the INCI name Starch Aluminum Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate is available, for example, from Nouryon as NATRASORB® HFB. The natural content is 81%, and suggested uses include humidity-resistant products, oil-control products, anhydrous products, antiperspirant sticks, sunscreens, and dry shampoos for a variety of benefits, including oil absorption, reduced syneresis, and fragrance retention.

[0030] The ingredient literature from Nouryon discloses that the ingredient is a crosslinked aluminum starch octenyl succinate that is surface treated with acrylates copolymer and magnesium carbonate.

[0031] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention have been determined to improve at least one characteristic of the skin, preferably oil control, moisturizing, skin brightening, or skin pore blurring.

[0032] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention preferably include a polyacrylate emulsifier or an emulsifier that includes a polyacrylate.

[0033] An emulsion is a system composed of two or more immiscible materials, where one material (the discontinuous or internal phase) is suspended or dispersed as individual droplets throughout another material (the continuous or external phase). The immiscible phase can be water, oil, or silicone.

[0034] When creating emulsions, surfactants called emulsifiers are used to slow the separation process of the immiscible phases. When used properly, emulsifiers produce a homogeneous mixture, dispersion, or emulsion of, for example, an oily or waxy substance with water.

[0035] The emulsifier is preferably shear thinning and non-thixotropic. Some rheology modifiers can cause a rapid decrease in viscosity when the formulation is subjected to high shear stress. This effect is known as shear thinning. Thixotropic liquids exhibit a time-dependent recovery of viscosity after shear stress is applied. When the shear stress is stopped, the viscosity recovers over time.

[0036] More preferably, the emulsifier is self-emulsifying and includes an inverting surfactant.More preferably, the shear-thinning, non-thixotropic, self-emulsifying rheology modifier is a polyacrylate polymer dispersed in a carrier oil that includes an inverting surfactant.

[0037] Preferably, the emulsifier is a material having the INCI name Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Ethylhexyl Cocoate (and) PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (and) Polysorbate 20. Such an emulsifier is commercially available as ViscOptima™ SE.

[0038] ViscOptima™ SE is a polyacrylate polymer dispersed in a carrier oil containing an inverting surfactant. When added to water, ViscOptima SE inverts to form an oil-in-water emulsion, causing the polyacrylate molecules to osmotically swell and subsequently thicken the aqueous phase. ViscOptima SE has shear-thinning rheology and is non-thixotropic. This results in a decrease in viscosity when force is applied to the formulation, such as during pumping or spraying, and an immediate recovery of viscosity when the force is no longer applied.

[0039] Preferably, or alternatively, the emulsifier is one or more of sodium polyacrylate (and) isotridecyl isononanoate (and) trideceth-6 (available as ViscOptima™ LV), sodium polyacrylate (and) liquid paraffin (and) trideceth-6 (available as ViscOptima™ PL), sodium polyacrylate (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) trideceth-6 (available as Rapithix A-60), sodium polyacrylate (and) dicaprylyl carbonate (and) polyglyceryl-3 caprate (available as Cosmedia ACE), acrylates / acrylamide copolymer and mineral oil and polysorbate 85 (November EC-1), or sodium polyacrylate available as Cosmedia SP.

[0040] Cosmetically acceptable carriers and other ingredients The cosmetic compositions of the present invention also include a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0041] In some embodiments, the carrier is an emulsion, preferably a water-in-oil emulsion. Such emulsions are also called invert emulsions. Alternatively, the composition comprises a carrier that is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0042] The oil phase of such emulsions preferably comprises an emollient, preferably a fat, oil, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, soap, silicone oil, synthetic ester, and / or hydrocarbon. Many organic sunscreens are also hydrophobic materials and may be used alone or in combination with one or more of the aforementioned emollients.

[0043] Silicones can be divided into volatile and non-volatile types. Volatile silicone oils, if used, are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing 3 to 9, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms.

[0044] Preferably, the non-volatile silicone is a polyalkylsiloxane, a polyalkylarylsiloxane, or a polyether siloxane copolymer. Essentially non-volatile polyalkylsiloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethylsiloxane.

[0045] When the cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise an alganopolysiloxane crosspolymer, the polymer is preferably a dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer or dimethicone crosspolymer available from a variety of sources, including Dow Corning (9040, 9041, 9045, 9506, and 9509), General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16, and 18 [dimethicone / phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]), and Grant Industries (Gransil brand materials), as well as lauryl dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers (e.g., KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KSG-44) supplied by Shin Etsu.

[0046] If the composition includes a non-silicone emollient, the emollient is preferably stearyl alcohol, glyceryl ricinoleate, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecane-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, di-n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate , isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rapeseed oil, safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, peanut oil, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohol, petrolatum, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Among the ester emollients are alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples of these include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanoate, cetyl ricinoleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate; ether esters, such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols; polyhydric alcohol esters, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, and propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters. Examples of suitable polyhydric alcohol esters include polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol polyfatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid esters, and sorbitan fatty acid esters, with polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters being preferred. Particularly useful are pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, and neopentyl glycol esters of C1-30 alcohols. Exemplary esters include pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate; wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, and tribehenin wax; sterol esters (e.g., cholesterol fatty acid esters); sugar esters of fatty acids such as sucrose polybehenate and sucrose polycottonseed; or mixtures of two or more of the foregoing (a)-(f).

[0048] Suitable emollient hydrocarbons include petrolatum, mineral oil, C11-C13 isoparaffins, polyalphaolefins, isohexadecane, or mixtures thereof.

[0049] In particularly preferred embodiments, the hydrophobic material comprises 1-25% fatty acid or 0.1-80% soap by weight of the composition. Mixtures of fatty acids and soap, such as vanishing cream bases, are also suitable, as they impart a highly valued matte finish to the skin. C12-C20 fatty acids are particularly preferred for the present invention, with C14-C18 fatty acids being more preferred. The most preferred fatty acids are stearic acid, palmitic acid, or mixtures thereof. The fatty acid in the composition is more preferably present in an amount ranging from 5-20% (by weight) of the composition. The soap may include an alkali metal salt of the fatty acid, such as a sodium or potassium salt, with potassium stearate being most preferred. The soap is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1-10% (by weight), more preferably 0.5-3% (by weight) of the composition. Generally, vanishing cream bases in skin care compositions are prepared by taking the desired amount of total fat and mixing it with the desired amount of potassium hydroxide. The soap is typically formed in situ during mixing.

[0050] Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises 20 to 80% by weight of water, more preferably 40 and 75% water, which water forms part of the carrier.

[0051] In addition to the ingredients already described, the cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably contains 0.001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight, of a skin whitening agent. Preferably, the skin whitening agent is a vitamin B3 compound or a derivative thereof, such as niacin, nicotinic acid, or niacinamide. A more preferred skin whitening agent is niacinamide. Alternatively, the skin lightening agent may be aloe extract, ammonium lactate, anethole derivative, apple extract, arbutin, azelaic acid, kojic acid, bamboo extract, bearberry extract, bretilla root tuber, Bupleurum falcatum extract, burnet extract, butylhydroxyanisole, butylhydroxytoluene, citric acid ester, Cnidium rhizome, Angelica acutiloba, deoxyarbutin, 1,3-diphenylpropane derivative, 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives, 2-(4-acetoxyphenyl)-1,3-ditan, 2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-1,3-ditan, ellagic acid, escinol, estragole derivative, Fadeout (Pentapharm), Safflower, fennel extract, Ganoderma lucidum extract, strawberry, Gatuline Whitening (Gattlefosse), genistic acid and its derivatives, glabridin and its derivatives, glucopyranosyl-1-ascorbate, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, green tea extract, 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone, hydroquinone, 4-hydroxyanisole and its derivatives, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid derivatives, hydroxycaprylic acid, inositol ascorbate, lemon extract, linoleic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Melawhite (Pentapharm), Morus alba extract, mulberry root extract , 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, parsley extract, Phellinus linteus extract, pyrogallol derivatives, 2,4-resorcinol derivatives, 3,5-resorcinol derivatives, rose fruit extract, salicylic acid, matsutake mushroom extract, 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzyl derivatives, tranexamic acid, vitamins such as vitamin B6, vitamin B12, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin A, dicarboxylic acids, extracts from the plants madder and hinoki cypress, hydroxycarboxylic acids such as lactic acid and salts thereof, for example sodium lactate, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] More preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise one or more organic sunscreens. A wide variety of organic sunscreens are suitable for use in combination with the essential ingredients of the present invention. Suitable UV-A / UV-B sunscreens include 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoate, digalloyl trioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxypropyl))aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, Included are methyl anthranilate, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfonebenzoxazol-3-yl, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The most suitable organic sunscreen is 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, or mixtures thereof.

[0053] A safe and effective amount of organic sunscreen can be used in the compositions useful in the present invention. The compositions preferably contain from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, of an organic sunscreen.

[0054] Other materials that may be included in the cosmetically acceptable carrier include solvents, humectants, thickeners, and powders. Each of these types of materials may be used alone or in mixtures, examples of which are as follows:

[0055] Solvents include ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Humectants include polyhydric alcohols. Typical polyhydric alcohols include polyalkylene glycols, more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and their derivatives, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol, and mixtures thereof. The amount of humectant can range, for example, from 0.5 to 50%, more preferably from 1 to 15% (by weight) of the composition. Glycerol (also known as glycerin) is most preferred. The amount of glycerin can range, for example, from 0.5% to 50%, more preferably from 1 to 35%, and optimally from 2 to 15% (by weight) of the composition.

[0057] Various thickening agents may be included in the composition. Exemplary, but not limiting, are stearic acid, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (Aristoflex AVC), hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, polyacrylates (e.g., carbomers, including Carbopol® 980, Carbopol® 1342, Pemulen® TR-2, and Ultrez® thickeners), polysaccharides (including xanthan gum, guar gum, pectin, carrageenan, and sclerotium gum), celluloses (including carboxymethylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, and methylhydroxymethylcellulose), minerals (including talc, silica, alumina, mica, and clays, the latter being typified by bentonite, hectorite, and attapulgite), magnesium aluminum silicate, and mixtures thereof. The amount of thickener can range, for example, from 0.05 to 10%, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% (by weight) of the composition.

[0058] Powders include chalk, talc, fuller's earth, kaolin, starch, gum, colloidal silica sodium polyacrylate, tetraalkyl and / or trialkylarylammonium smectite, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed silica, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, and ethylene glycol monostearate.

[0059] The cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably contains a non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener that swells upon exposure to a polar liquid. Preferably, the composition contains 0.5 to 10 wt. % of the hydrophilic inorganic thickener. This amount depends on the weight percent of the microspheres and several other factors, such as the nature of the cosmetic composition, i.e., cream, lotion, or gel. The term "non-silica" means that the inorganic thickener is not thickening silica or other silica-based thickeners. More preferably, the composition of the present invention contains 0.5 to 5 wt. %, most preferably 0.5 to 3 wt. %, of the non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener. Preferably, the inorganic thickener is at least one of magnesium aluminum silicate, layered silicate, smectite, hectorite, bentonite, montmorillonite, or phyllosilicate. More preferably, the inorganic thickener is smectite or magnesium aluminum silicate.

[0060] Several grades of magnesium aluminum silicate are commercially available, such as thickeners in the VEEGUM® line of products, e.g., Normal Fast Ultra, VEEGUM® K, VEEGUM® HV, VEEGUM® PURE, VEEGUM® CH, VEEGUM® HS, VEEGUM® D, VEEGUM® Ultra, and thickeners in the VANATURAL® line of products, e.g., VANATURAL® MC. The VANATURAL® line of products is a bentonite clay type.

[0061] Although not required, magnesium aluminum silicate or smectite may be used in the form of a combination or blend of the thickener with a natural organic gum or natural organic thickener. One example is VANATURAL® XGB (bentonite and xanthan gum). Other examples include VAN GEL SX (smectite clay and xanthan gum) and VEEGUM CER (smectite clay and cellulose gum). Other such blends may include polyacrylate, carbomer, cellulose, sodium, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, xanthan gum, sodium carrageenan, sodium alginate, hydroxypropyl guar, gum arabic (acacia), or gum tragacanth.

[0062] Other preferred forms of smectite include sodium magnesium silicate, organically modified smectites (organically modified montmorillonite clays) including tetraalkyl and / or trialkylammonium smectites, such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite, and stearalkonium hectorite, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] As used herein, "silicone elastomer" refers to a deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises a silicone elastomer.

[0064] The silicone elastomer is preferably crosslinked. The silicone elastomer can be obtained from a curable organopolysiloxane. Examples in this regard include addition-curable organopolysiloxane compositions that cure under platinum metal catalysis by the addition reaction of a SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane with an organopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded vinyl groups; condensation-curable organopolysiloxane compositions that cure in the presence of an organotin compound by the dehydrogenation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane with a SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane; and condensation-curable organopolysiloxane compositions that cure in the presence of an organotin compound by the condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane with a hydrolyzable organosilane. These include condensation-curable organopolysiloxane compositions that cure in the presence of an organotin compound or a titanate ester by a condensation reaction (examples of which are dehydration, alcohol-free, oxime-free, amine-free, amide-free, carboxyl-free, and ketone-free reactions); peroxide-curable organopolysiloxane compositions that cure by heat in the presence of an organic peroxide catalyst; and organopolysiloxane compositions that are cured by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, or electron beams. The silicone elastomer is preferably obtained by an addition-reaction-curable organopolysiloxane composition that cures under the action of a platinum metal catalyst by the addition reaction of an SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane with an organopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded vinyl groups.

[0065] The silicone elastomer may be either an emulsifying or non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer or a combination thereof, but preferably the silicone elastomer is non-emulsifying. As used herein, the term "non-emulsifying" defines a crosslinked silicone elastomer that does not contain polyoxyalkylene units. As used herein, the term "emulsifying" refers to a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer that contains at least one polyoxyalkylene (e.g., polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) unit.

[0066] Preferred silicone elastomers are organopolysiloxanes available under the INCI names Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, and Polysilicone-11. More preferably, the silicone elastomer is Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

[0067] Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 10% by weight of silicone elastomer, more preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, and even more preferably 1 to 5% by weight.

[0068] The compositions of the present invention may contain 1 to 25% by weight of fatty acid or 0.1 to 80% by weight of soap (by weight) of the composition. For example, a mixture of fatty acid and soap is also suitable, forming a vanishing cream base that imparts a matte feel to the skin. 12~20 Fatty acids are particularly preferred, C 14~18 Fatty acids are more preferred. The most preferred fatty acids are stearic acid, myristic acid, or mixtures thereof. When present, the composition contains 5 to 20% by weight of a fatty acid or soap. The soap in the hydrophobic material may include an alkali metal salt of the fatty acid, such as a sodium or potassium salt, with potassium stearate being the most preferred. Vanishing cream bases in cosmetic compositions are generally prepared by taking the desired amount of total fat and mixing it with the desired amount of potassium hydroxide. The soap is usually formed in situ during mixing.

[0069] Preferably, the composition contains a white pigment. The white pigment is typically a particle of a high refractive index material. For example, the white pigment may have a refractive index greater than 1.3, more preferably greater than 1.8, and most preferably between 2.0 and 2.7. Examples of such white pigments include bismuth oxychloride barium sulfate, mica, silica, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof. More preferred white pigments are particles containing titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, mica, iron oxide, or a combination thereof. Even more preferred white pigments are particles containing zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium dioxide, or a combination thereof, because these materials have particularly high refractive indices. Even more preferably, the white pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a mixture thereof, with titanium dioxide being the most preferred white pigment.

[0070] The average diameter of the white pigment is typically 15 nm to 2 μm, more preferably 35 nm to 800 nm, even more preferably 50 nm to 500 nm, and even more preferably 100 to 300 nm. The diameter of the white pigment refers to the diameter of the particles in an unagglomerated state. When a clearly defined sphere does not occur, the diameter refers to the maximum measurable distance on the particle. The average diameter can be measured, for example, by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) or transmission electron microscopy (TEM) by averaging the values ​​of at least 100 particles.

[0071] Preferably, the composition comprises 0.001 to 10% by weight of white pigment, more preferably 0.01 to 6% by weight, more preferably still 0.1 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0.2 to 2% by weight of white pigment.

[0072] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may further contain other ingredients common in the art to enhance physical properties and performance. Suitable ingredients include, but are not limited to, binders, colorants and pigments, pH adjusters, preservatives, optical agents, fragrances, viscosity adjusters, biological additives, buffers, conditioning agents, skin benefit agents including natural extracts, essential oils and anti-inflammatory agents, cooling agents, antiperspirants, anti-aging agents, anti-acne agents, antibacterial agents, and antioxidants.

[0073] The composition can be formulated in any known form. Furthermore, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be a leave-on or wash-off composition, and more preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a leave-on cosmetic. More preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cream, a gel cream, or a lotion.

[0074] The skin care compositions of the present invention are suitable for topical application to human skin and include leave-on and wash-off products. The term "leave-on" as used in reference to the compositions herein refers to a composition that is applied or rubbed into the skin and left on the skin. The term "wash-off" as used in reference to the compositions herein refers to a skin cleanser that is applied or rubbed into the skin and washed off substantially immediately after application.

[0075] Packaging for the compositions of the present invention can be in a bottle or tube, as well as any other form typically found in cosmetics, creams, cleansing products, and lotion-type products. The compositions can be applied topically, preferably at 1 to 4 milligrams of composition per square centimeter of skin.

[0076] Uses and Methods According to a second aspect, there is disclosed use of the cosmetic composition of the first aspect for improving at least one property of the skin. Preferably, the at least one property is oil control, moisturizing, skin brightening, or skin pore blurring. More preferably, at least two of the aforementioned properties are improved. More preferably, three of the aforementioned properties are improved. Even more preferably, all four properties are improved.

[0077] Oil Control Preferably, the composition provides facial oil control for at least 12 hours after a single application. Sebum is a skin oil produced by sebocytes (cells in the sebaceous glands of the skin) and then secreted onto the skin surface. A common undesirable skin condition is "oily skin," which results from an excessive amount of sebum on the skin. Oily skin is associated with an undesirable shiny appearance and an unpleasant feel, affecting people of all ages. The degree of oil control is typically measured on a person's forehead with a device called a Sebumeter.

[0078] Moisturizing In a further embodiment, the use of the composition of the first embodiment is disclosed for moisturizing the face for at least 8 hours after a single application.Preferably, a Corneometer (corneal moisture measurement device) is used for this analysis.The Corneometer CM82OPC (Courage & Khazaha, Kohl, Germany) is a device widely used in the cosmetics industry.It allows safe high-frequency alternating current voltage electrical measurement of skin capacitance through electrodes attached to the skin surface.The measured parameters are known to vary with skin moisture.However, these parameters can also vary with many other factors, such as skin temperature, sweat gland activity, and the composition of any applied products.The Corneometer can only provide a directional change in the moisture content of the upper stratum corneum under favorable conditions, but quantitative interpretation here can also be misleading.

[0079] Skin Brightening In another embodiment, the use of the composition of the first embodiment is disclosed for providing facial skin brightening for at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours after single application.Preferably, the degree of brightening is measured using a spectrophotometer and expressed using L* value.More preferably, it is measured on the forehead of the subject.

[0080] Pore ​​reduction In a further embodiment, the use of the composition of the first embodiment is disclosed for reducing the visible pores of facial skin for at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours after a single application.Preferably, the reduction of pores is measured as blurring of pores on the front, left and right sides of the subject's face.The light setting is preferably CP, PP, S1 and S2 lighting mode using Visia® analysis.

[0081] method According to another aspect, a method of improving at least one property of skin is disclosed, comprising treating the skin with the cosmetic composition of the first aspect.

[0082] Preferably, the at least one property is oil control, moisturizing, skin brightening, or skin pore blurring. Preferably, at least three properties are improved.

[0083] In this method, the composition preferably provides facial oil control for at least 12 hours after a single application.

[0084] In this method, the composition preferably provides facial moisturization for at least 8 hours after a single application.

[0085] In this method, the composition preferably provides facial skin brightening for at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours after a single application.

[0086] In this method, the composition preferably reduces the visibility of pores on facial skin for at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours after a single application.

[0087] All other preferred features described based on the use of the composition are applicable to this aspect of the invention mutatis mutandis.

[0088] The following examples are provided to facilitate understanding of the invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.

[0089] [Example] [Example 1] For this experiment, a cosmetic face cream was formulated, the composition of which is listed in Table 1.

[0090] [Table 1]

[0091] test: The creams were tested against a control cream on volunteers aged 18 to 45 years with a 50:50 ratio of oily to normal / dry skin (as measured by a Sebumeter) and prominent facial pores. Volunteers were acclimated to a temperature of 22°C ± 5°C and a relative humidity of 30% ± 10% for 10-15 minutes.

[0092] The required amount of test product was dispensed onto the fingertips. The test product was applied to different areas of the face (determined by randomization). The test product was spread evenly with four fingers using a circular motion for approximately one minute. This ensured that the test product was evenly applied.

[0093] Dermatological and instrumental evaluations were performed at baseline, 4 hours, 8 hours, and 12 hours after a single application of the test article(s), as detailed below. Oil control - Sebumeter - right and left side of forehead Moisturizing - Corneometer - Cheeks (left and right) Lightness (L*) - Spectrophotometer - Right and left side of forehead Pore ​​Blur - Visia - Light Settings: Front, left and right sides of face under CP, PP, S1 and S2 lighting modes The data were statistically analyzed and are shown in Table 2.

[0094] [Table 2]

[0095] The data in Table 2 show that:

[0096] Sebum was found to be significantly less at 4, 8, and 12 hours compared to baseline, suggesting that the test article was effective in controlling sebum for 12 hours. The untreated sample showed a significant increase in sebum at 4, 8, and 12 hours compared to baseline. Sebum was found to be significantly less at all time points compared to the untreated control, suggesting that the test article was effective in controlling sebum for 12 hours after its application.

[0097] Moisture retention was found to be significantly higher at 4 hours compared to baseline. Skin hydration persists for 8 hours compared to baseline.

[0098] In untreated samples compared to baseline, significant decreases were observed at 4, 8, and 12 hours compared to baseline.

[0099] Moisture retention was found to be significantly greater at all time points compared to the untreated control, suggesting that the test article was effective in maintaining moisture over 12 hours compared to the untreated control.

[0100] In composition 1, L* was found to be significantly higher at 4 hours, 8 hours, and 12 hours compared to the baseline. In the untreated sample, L* was found to be significantly lower at 4 hours compared to the baseline. L* was found to be significantly higher at all time points compared to the untreated control, suggesting that the test product was superior to the untreated control. The test product was effective in brightening the skin after a single application.

[0101] For pore blurring, the mean values ​​were found to be significantly lower at 4, 8, and 12 hours compared to the baseline, suggesting that the test article was effective in reducing the visibility of pores. As for the untreated sample, no change in pore visibility was observed at any time point in the study compared to the baseline. Pore visibility was found to be significantly less at all time points compared to the untreated control, suggesting that the test article was effective in blurring pores for 12 hours after its application.

Claims

1. i) aluminum starch octenyl succinate; ii) a component having the INCI name Starch Aluminum Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate; A cosmetic composition comprising: the weight ratio of the component having the INCI name of aluminum starch octenyl succinate (and) acrylates copolymer (and) magnesium carbonate to the aluminum starch octenyl succinate in the cosmetic composition is 1:0.5 to 1:5; wherein said cosmetic composition comprises 0.1 to 5% by weight of said ingredient having the INCI name Starch Aluminum Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate.

2. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.5 to 15% by weight of the starch aluminum octenyl succinate.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises a polyacrylate emulsifier or an emulsifier comprising a polyacrylate.

4. The cosmetic composition of claim 3 , wherein the emulsifier is shear thinning and non-thixotropic.

5. The cosmetic composition of claim 4 , wherein the emulsifier is self-emulsifying and comprises an inverting surfactant.

6. The cosmetic composition described in claim 3, wherein the emulsifier is a polyacrylate polymer dispersed in a carrier oil containing an inverting surfactant.

7. 7. The cosmetic composition of claim 6, wherein said emulsifier is a material having the INCI name Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Ethylhexyl Cocoate (and) PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (and) Polysorbate 20.

8. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for improving at least one property of the skin.

9. 9. The use of claim 8, wherein the at least one property is oil control, moisturizing, skin brightening, or skin pore blurring.

10. 10. The use according to claim 9, wherein at least three properties are improved.

11. 11. The use according to claim 9 or 10, wherein the cosmetic composition provides facial oil control for at least 12 hours after a single application.

12. 11. The use according to claim 9 or 10, wherein the cosmetic composition provides facial moisturization for at least 8 hours after a single application.

13. A non-therapeutic method of improving at least one property of the skin, comprising treating the skin with a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7.

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