Binder for use in powder cosmetic compositions

Abstract

The powder cosmetic composition comprises a particulate phase and a binder portion composition. The binder portion composition comprises a viscous emollient, a non-viscous emollient, a triglyceride ester fatty acid, and one or more specific waxes. The binder portion composition is particularly suitable for use in stabilizing pearlescent and metallic pigments. The composition is stable, has a creamy texture, and is suitable for long wear while providing true color, excellent color payoff, and skin conditioning.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present disclosure relates generally to powder makeup compositions for skin and hair. More specifically, the present disclosure relates to powder eye makeup compositions containing metallic, pearlescent, or other color effect pigments. [Background technology]

[0002] In cosmetics, pearlescent pigments create interference effects that depend on the lighting and viewing angle. For example, pearlescent pigments can impart deep luster and shine when applied to the skin surface. The appearance imparted by pearlescent pigments is considered aesthetically appealing, glamorous, and sensual. Typical pearlescent pigments are plate-like particles composed of mica coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide. The coating thickness varies, which creates a wide range of refractive indexes and various visual effects. Particle size also influences the feel of the cosmetic product when applied to the skin. Roughly speaking, pearlescent pigments in the 1-15 μm range impart a velvety feel and matte shimmer. As the pigment size increases slightly (5-25 μm), the feel becomes more silky and the visual effect becomes more satin-like. As the pigment size increases further (approximately 50 μm), a shimmering appearance occurs. This shimmering effect becomes increasingly pronounced as the pigment size increases to at least approximately 500 μm.

[0003] Cosmetic metallic pigments are typically very thin, pellet-shaped particles made from borosilicate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, and mica. Light is reflected from these pigments, but the amount of light perceived by the eye is highly dependent on the viewing angle. Metallic pigments provide sparkle and luster. The exact behavior depends on the size and shape of the metal particles.

[0004] Pressed powders are one type of delivery system for metallic and pearlescent pigments. Pressed powder compositions typically contain a particulate phase and a binder phase. The particulate phase can contain various dry powders and pigments. Generally, the binder phase can be dry or liquid, but the present invention utilizes a liquid binder system. Liquid binder systems containing natural oils, esters, and emollients provide lubrication, cushioning, and film-forming capabilities. Both natural oils and emollients are excellent pigment dispersants, providing excellent slip, spreadability, and improved wear. Some oils enhance skin adhesion, while others help provide a silky to powdery feel. Overall, liquid binder systems improve powder compressibility while reducing dustiness, increasing the shine of the final product, and providing a silky, smooth finish on the skin. Nevertheless, even with liquid binder systems, pressed powder compositions are often difficult to stabilize. This is especially true when the concentration of large particle pigments is too high. At a critical point, the particulate phase cannot completely absorb the liquid binder. This limitation on the concentration of large particle pigments limits the degree of optical effect that can be obtained.

[0005] In pressed powder applications, synthetic waxes have been tried as stabilizers. These include, but are not limited to, polyolefin waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, montan waxes, polyethylene waxes, ceresin, and mixtures thereof. However, synthetic waxes tend to be dusty and cannot provide the adhesive properties necessary to stabilize compositions containing relatively high concentrations of large metallic or pearlescent pigments. In addition, glittery products tend to have little staying power on the skin. To date, satisfactory results have not been achieved, and there remains a need for stabilizers that are effective in stabilizing metallic or pearlescent pigments in pressed powder compositions.

[0006] Object of the invention A primary object of the present invention is to provide a binder for use in powdered cosmetic compositions, particularly those containing metallic and pearlescent pigments. Summary of the Invention

[0007] Described herein is a binder portion composition for use in the binder phase of powder cosmetics, particularly pressed powder compositions. The binder portion composition comprises one or more viscous emollients, one or more non-viscous emollients, one or more triglyceride ester fatty acids, and one or more floral waxes. The binder portion composition is preferred for use in pressed cosmetic compositions containing metallic and pearlescent pigments. The portion composition can stabilize the metallic and pearlescent particles against shedding. Pressed powder compositions according to the present invention utilizing the binder portion composition have a creamy texture and are suitable for long wear (flexibility, water resistance, smear resistance, and flake resistance). The compositions provide true color, excellent color payoff, and skin conditioning.

[0008] definition "Comprising" and the like means that the list of elements may not be limited to those explicitly enumerated.

[0009] "Consists of" and the like means that the list of elements is limited to those explicitly listed.

[0010] Except in the Examples and Comparative Examples, or where otherwise expressly indicated, all numbers in this specification expressing amounts or proportions of materials or reaction conditions, physical properties of materials and / or uses, should be understood as modified by the word "about."

[0011] As used herein, the terms "stable" and "stability" refer to a composition that does not substantially change in chemical state, physical uniformity, and / or color over a period of at least six months when the temperature of the composition varies from about 1°C to about 40°C.

[0012] As used herein, the term "powder" includes fine and coarse powders, flakes, crystalline flakes, platelets, spherical particles, precipitates, and other solid particulate materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a particulate phase and a binder phase.

[0014] Particulate phase The particulate phase comprises a variety of cosmetically acceptable powder components and pigments, particularly one or more pearlescent and / or metallic pigments. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the particulate phase comprises one or more pearlescent and / or metallic pigments. These pigments typically have a diameter (or other characteristic size) ranging from about 0.1 μm to about 500 μm.

[0015] Binder Phase The binder phase comprises a binder part composition consisting of one or more viscous emollients, one or more non-viscous emollients, one or more triglyceride ester fatty acids, and one or more floral waxes. The binder phase may also comprise any cosmetically acceptable liquid ingredient that does not interfere with the function of the binder part composition.

[0016] Viscous and non-viscous emollients The dynamic viscosity of a liquid is a measure of the liquid's resistance to deformation at a given shear rate. At a macroscopic level, dynamic viscosity is experienced as resistance to flow. The binder portion composition of the present invention includes one or more viscous emollients and one or more non-viscous emollients. Non-viscous emollients are liquids that exhibit little or no resistance to flow. We define non-viscous emollients as those having a dynamic viscosity of less than about 100 mPa·s, more preferably less than about 50 mPa·s. For example, octyldodecyl lactate (INCI name) is a highly polar liquid ester characterized by a dynamic viscosity of about 43 mPa·s. Octyldodecyl lactate has proven useful in embodiments of the present invention and is available as Cosmol-13 from the Nisshin Oil Group. In contrast, viscous emollients useful in the present invention have a dynamic viscosity of about 500 mPa·s to 1000 mPa·s. For example, tridecyl trimellitate (INCI name) is a liquid emollient ester with a dynamic viscosity of about 860 mPa·s. Tridecyl trimellitate is available as Liponate™ TD™ from Vantage Specialty Ingredients (NJ).

[0017] Triglyceride esters fatty acids The binder portion composition comprises one or more C18-C36 triglyceride ester fatty acids. Triglyceride ester fatty acids are esters derived from glycerol and three fatty acids. In the compositions of the present invention, the triglyceride ester fatty acids function to soften the wax and reduce crystallinity. In some embodiments of the present invention, tribehenin (a triglyceride of behenic (C22) acid) is preferred. Tribehenin is available, for example, from Croda as Syncrowax™ HRC in the form of an amorphous paste having a melting point of about 60°C to 65°C.

[0018] flower wax Flower waxes are solid aromatic plant waxes obtained during the production of floral concretes and absolutes. Flower waxes are composed of natural waxes and aromatic compounds present in the plants from which they are derived. Flower waxes include, but are not limited to, lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), blackcurrant, blue lotus, goldenrod (Acacia dealbata), chamomile, clary sage, everlasting (Helichrysum angustifolium), geranium, jasmine, mimosa, nutmeg, orange, rose, tuberose, violet, and mixtures thereof. Preferred flower waxes contain a mixture of C4 to C50 hydrocarbons with a characteristic melting point range of approximately 30°C to 60°C (86°F to 140°F). Waxes with longer chain lengths tend to be too hard for the present invention.

[0019] Optional Ingredients The pressed powder cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally contain various cosmetically acceptable ingredients for known beauty or skin care benefits, provided that the ingredients are compatible with the pressed powder product form. Optional ingredients may be present in the particulate phase, the binder phase, or both. In practice, any non-particulate ingredients (i.e., liquids, pastes) must be added to the liquid binder phase. If present, the total of all optional ingredients ranges from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the total pressed powder cosmetic composition. Preferred embodiments of the present invention are talc-free and silicone-free.

[0020] Optional ingredients include, but are not limited to, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, vitamins, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatory agents, analgesics, anesthetics, anti-acne agents, antibacterial agents, antibacterial agents, anti-yeast agents, anti-fungal agents, antiviral agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-dermatitis agents, anti-pruritics, anti-emetic agents, anti-keratolytic agents, anti-allergic agents, disinfectants, anti-dry skin agents, anti-psoriasis agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-asthma agents, sunscreens, antihistamines, depigmenting agents, wound healing agents, corticosteroids, tanning agents, moisturizers, lubricants, masking agents, medications, moisturizers, pH adjusters, chelating agents, emulsifiers, surfactants, thickeners, and hormones. [Example]

[0021] A control standard for comparison In the following examples, test samples were prepared according to the pressed powder eyeshadow formula shown in Table 1.

[0022] [Table 1] 1. Nylon-12 microspheres (Kobo Products, Inc.). 2.100% polymethyl methacrylate spherical powder. 3.100% Magnesium Myristate. 4.40.0-50.0% mica substrate, 50.0-60.0% iron oxide coating (EMD Performance Materials), 10-60 μm. 5. Calcium sodium borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (CI 77891) / tin oxide (BASF), 27-128μm. 6. Caprylyl Glycol / Phenoxyethanol / Hexylene Glycol (Hampford Research). 7. Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride / Polyhydroxystearic Acid / Isostearic Acid / Lecithin / Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (Applechem, Inc.).

[0023] Typical conventional binder phases are shown in Table 2.

[0024] [Table 2]

[0025] However, when this binder phase was incorporated into the eyeshadow of Table 1, the binder was not absorbed by the powdered ingredients and, upon pressing in the pan, liquid leaked out of the corners of the pan. The resulting cake was too hard, had chipped corners, and exhibited glazing and poor color development. Clearly, a different type of binder was needed.

[0026] The four essential components that make up the binder part composition according to the present invention are shown in Table 3. Table 3 shows the relative percentages of one binder part composition that gives excellent results and performs well in terms of pressability, stability, drop test, overall appearance, texture, and color development. An eye shadow according to the formula shown in Table 1 with the binder phase shown in Table 3 serves as a benchmark (control) for comparing variations in binder part composition. The binder phase includes two optional liquid components:

[0027] [Table 3] 1. Behenic acid, 1,2,3-propanetriyl ester (Croda, Inc.) 2. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate / Tribehenin / Ceramide 2 / PEG-10 Phytosterol / Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 (Sederma)

[0028] Example In the following examples, only the binder phase is shown; the complete formulation can be seen from Table 1. The only difference between individual test samples is the concentration of the ingredients that make up the binder portion composition shown in Table 3. The concentration of each ingredient is shown as a percentage of the binder phase. One-quarter of that amount is its concentration as a percentage of the total formulation shown in Table 1. Drop test data was collected by dropping a pan of pressed powder from a height of 9 to 15 inches onto a designated surface until it broke.

[0029] Example 1 Pressed powders were prepared with the binder phases shown in Table 4 by varying the level of tridecyl trimellitate and appropriate amounts of octyldodecyl lactate while keeping everything else constant. All test powders were pressed using the same equipment.

[0030] [Table 4]

[0031] Example 2 Pressed powders were prepared using the binder phases shown in Table 5 by varying the level of tridecyl trimellitate and keeping the other ingredients (except for Dermaxyl, which is of limited use) at uniform amounts.

[0032] [Table 5]

[0033] Observations from Examples 1 and 2: Higher levels of tridecyl trimellitate result in increased color development and a creamier, more powdery texture. This occurs whether the percentage of octyldodecyl lactate is held constant or varied proportionally with the tridecyl trimellitate. We conclude that in some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the binder phase comprises one or more viscous emollients that together comprise about 70% to about 85% of the total weight of the binder phase (or about 17.5% to about 21.25% of the weight of the entire powder cosmetic composition).

[0034] Example 3 Pressed powders were prepared with the binder phases shown in Table 6 by varying the level of octyldodecyl lactate and appropriate amounts of tridecyl trimellitate while keeping everything else constant.

[0035] [Table 6]

[0036] [Table 7]

[0037] Observations from Example 3: When octyldodecyl lactate is in the range of about 5% to 14% by weight of the binder phase, the results are comparable to the standard. Outside this range, the results were unacceptable. We conclude that in some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the binder phase contains one or more non-viscous emollients that total about 5% to about 14% of the total weight of the binder phase (or about 1.25% to about 3.50% of the weight of the entire powder cosmetic composition).

[0038] Example 4 Pressed powders were prepared with the binder phases shown in Table 7 by varying the level of triglyceride ester fatty acid (Syncrowax HR-C), appropriate amounts of tridecyl trimellitate, and keeping everything else constant.

[0039] [Table 8]

[0040] [Table 9]

[0041] Observations from Example 4: We conclude that in some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the binder phase comprises one or more triglyceride ester fatty acids that total from about 2.0% to about 2.5% of the total weight of the binder phase (or from about 0.50% to about 0.63% of the total weight of the powder cosmetic composition). If the concentration of triglyceride ester fatty acids is outside this range, the resulting pressed powder composition will be of insufficient quality compared to the standard.

[0042] Example 5 Pressed powders were prepared with the binder phase shown in Table 8 by varying the level of lavender wax and appropriate amounts of tridecyl trimellitate, keeping everything else constant.

[0043] [Table 10]

[0044] [Table 11]

[0045] Observations from Example 5: Test samples with 10% or more lavender wax experienced chipping when pressed. Test samples containing 2% or less lavender wax were unacceptable compared to the standard. Test samples containing 3% to 9% lavender wax performed similarly to the standard. We conclude that in some embodiments of the present invention, a preferred amount of lavender wax ranges from about 3% to about 9% of the binder phase (or from about 0.75% to about 2.25% by weight of the total powder cosmetic composition). Most preferred is from about 4% to about 5% based on the total weight of the binder phase (or from about 1% to about 1.25% by weight of the total powder cosmetic composition).

[0046] Example 6 We wondered whether floral waxes other than lavender, which have melting points of approximately 35°C, would be useful in the binder portion composition. Pressed powders were prepared using the binder phases shown in Table 9 by replacing the lavender wax in the reference binder phase (Table 3) with various other floral waxes (Tests 1-6) with melting points ranging from approximately 30°C to 60°C (86°F to 140°F). Ozokerite, a non-floral wax, was included for comparison (Test 7). Ozokerite is a hydrocarbon wax derived from mineral or petroleum sources. We used a microcrystalline wax that melts over a range of 70°C to 97°C.

[0047] [Table 12]

[0048] Observations from Example 6: Tests 1-6 performed comparable to the benchmark using lavender wax. Test 7 performed unacceptably. The cake was too hard and glazing occurred. Corners chipped upon pressing. We conclude that in some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the binder phase comprises one or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon flower waxes having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 60°C.

[0049] Example 7 In this example, the reference binder part composition (Table 3) was stripped of all waxy components and replaced with the appropriate amount of tridecyl trimellitate.

[0050] [Table 13] 1. C12-15 alkyl benzoate / tribehenin / ceramide 2 / PEG-10 phytosterol / palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 (Sederma)

[0051] Observations from Example 7: Incorporating the binder phase of Table 10 into the base formula (Table 1) resulted in an unacceptable, dusty, crumbly cake.

[0052] Example 8 Table 11 shows the results when tridecyl trimellitate (viscosity 859.4 mPa·s) was replaced with emollients of various viscosities.

[0053] [Table 14] 1. Fatty acids, C8-10, C12-18 alkyl esters (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric acid palm) (BASF) 2. Diglyceryl triisostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate) (Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.) 3. Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), alpha, alpha', alpha', 1,2,3-propanetriyl tris[omega-hydroxy-, 2-hydroxypropanoate] (INCI name: glycereth-5 lactate) (ALZO, International) 4. (Surfatech Corp)

[0054] Observations from Example 8: When tridecyl trimellitate (viscosity = 859.4 mPa·s) is replaced with an emollient with a dynamic viscosity orders of magnitude higher or lower, the resulting binder portion composition does not perform as well. In contrast, the performance of Cosmol™ 43V (448 mPa·s) was comparable to the control in some aspects, and the performance of Dermol™ L45 (900 mPa·s) was even better. We conclude that in some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the viscous emollient component of the binder portion composition should have a dynamic viscosity of about 500 mPa·s to 1000 mPa·s.

[0055] Example 9 The present invention relates to compositions for application to skin surfaces. We have discussed the benefits of our binder portion composition in the context of pressed powder eyeshadow. However, binder portion compositions according to the present invention may find use in a variety of other cosmetic products. For example, a blush composition utilizing a reference binder portion composition was formed by pressing at 300 psi. The aesthetics were acceptable, with the blush achieving four drops in a drop test. A face powder composition utilizing a reference binder portion composition was formed by pressing at 400 psi. The aesthetics were acceptable, with the face powder withstanding two drops in a drop test. Overall, the binder formulation can be pressed in different pan sizes, adjusting the pressure to ensure the pressed formulation passes the drop test without compromising the product's aesthetics. In contrast to pressed powder forms, loose powder compositions were created by adjusting the amount of pearl particles and reducing the binder phase to 25% to approximately 7% of the total loose powder composition. The aesthetics were acceptable. From our observations, we conclude that the binder phase according to the present invention is useful in powder cosmetics at concentrations ranging from about 7% to about 25% of the total powder cosmetic composition.

[0056] Example 10 In the fine particle phase, the concentration of a relatively large pearlescent pigment (Glassmira OM24) was increased and a moderate amount of a relatively small pearlescent pigment (Syncrystal Almond) was used, all else being kept constant.

[0057] [Table 15] 1. Nylon-12 microspheres (Kobo Products, Inc.). 2.100% polymethyl methacrylate spherical powder. 3.100% Magnesium Myristate. 4. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (free flowing powder) 20-25μm coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxide. 5. Al, Ca, Na silicate, iron(III) oxide, silica (pearlescent pigment 20-500 μm). 6. Caprylyl Glycol / Phenoxyethanol / Hexylene Glycol (Hampford Research). 7. Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride / Polyhydroxystearic Acid / Isostearic Acid / Lecithin / Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (Applechem, Inc.).

[0058] Observations from Example 10: In Test 4 (conventional binder phase), the mass could not be pressed into a cake. The liquid spilled over all sides of the pan, indicating that the powder, even at the lowest concentration tested, was unable to absorb the conventional binder due to the presence of the large pearl particles. In contrast, with the binder portion composition according to the present invention, a cake could be pressed even when the concentration of large pearl particles was as high as 25.2% by weight of the total powder cosmetic composition.

[0059] We have described a powdered cosmetic composition comprising a particulate phase and a binder phase. The binder phase comprises a binder portion composition. The binder portion composition is particularly suitable for use in stabilizing pearlescent and metallic pigments. The composition is stable, has a creamy texture, and is suitable for long wear while providing true color, excellent color payoff, and skin conditioning. While specific embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended in the appended claims to cover all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of the present invention. The present invention includes the following aspects. [Section 1] 1. A powdered cosmetic composition comprising a particulate phase and a binder phase, the particulate phase comprises up to 25% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition of one or more cosmetically acceptable pearlescent and / or metallic pigments; the binder phase 17.5% to 21.25% by weight of the powdery cosmetic composition of one or more viscous emollients having a dynamic viscosity of 500 mPa·s to 1000 mPa·s; 1.25% to 3.5% by weight of the powdery cosmetic composition of one or more non-viscous emollients having a dynamic viscosity of less than 100 mPa·s; 0.50% to 0.63% by weight of the powdery cosmetic composition of one or more C18-C36 triglyceride ester fatty acids; A powdery cosmetic composition comprising a binder portion composition consisting of one or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon flower waxes having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 60°C, in an amount of 0.75% to 2.25% by weight of the powdery cosmetic composition. [Section 2] Item 1. The powdery cosmetic composition according to item 1, wherein the particulate phase comprises one or more types of particulate material characterized by a size of 0.1 μm to 500 μm. [Section 3] Item 3. The powdery cosmetic composition according to Item 2, wherein the cosmetic composition is a pressed powder cosmetic. [Section 4] Item 1. The powdery cosmetic composition according to Item 1, wherein the one or more viscous emollients are tridecyl trimellitate. [Section 5] Item 1. The powdery cosmetic composition according to item 1, wherein the one or more non-viscous emollients are octyldodecyl lactate. [Section 6] Item 2. The powdery cosmetic composition according to Item 1, wherein the one or more C18-C36 triglyceride ester fatty acids are tribehenin. [Section 7] Item 1. The powdery cosmetic composition according to Item 1, wherein the one or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon flower waxes are lavender wax. [Section 8] Item 1. The powdery cosmetic composition according to item 1, further comprising 0.1% to 20% by weight of the powdery cosmetic composition of one or more cosmetically acceptable ingredients.

Claims

1. 1. A powdered cosmetic composition comprising a particulate phase and a binder phase, the particulate phase comprises up to 25% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition of one or more cosmetically acceptable pearlescent and / or metallic pigments; the binder phase 17.5% to 21.25% by weight of the powdery cosmetic composition of tridecyl trimellitate having a dynamic viscosity of 500 mPa·s to 1000 mPa·s; 1.25% to 3.5% by weight of the powdery cosmetic composition of octyldodecyl lactate having a dynamic viscosity of less than 100 mPa s; 0.50% to 0.63% by weight of the powdery cosmetic composition of tribehenin, A powdery cosmetic composition comprising: a binder portion composition consisting of one or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon flower waxes having a melting point in the range of 30°C to 60°C, in an amount of 0.75% to 2.25% by weight of the powdery cosmetic composition.

2. 10. The powdered cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said particulate phase comprises one or more types of particulate material characterized by a size between 0.1 μm and 500 μm.

3. 3. The powdery cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the cosmetic composition is a pressed powder cosmetic.

4. 2. The powdered cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said one or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon flower waxes is lavender wax.

5. 10. The powder cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising from 0.1% to 20%, by weight of said powder cosmetic composition, of one or more cosmetically acceptable ingredients.

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