Oil-based cosmetics

The formulation of hydrogel particles with an oily composition and surfactant addresses mixing issues, achieving easy integration and a powdery finish in cosmetics.

JP7808947B2Active Publication Date: 2026-01-30KAO CORP
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2021172734
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2021-10-21
Publication Date
2026-01-30
Estimated Expiration
2041-10-21

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Conventional cosmetics face usability issues due to the difficulty in mixing agar hydrogel particles with oily components, leading to poor integration and a non-powdery finish.

Method used

A cosmetic formulation is developed by mixing hydrogel particles containing an aqueous gelling agent and powder with an oily composition that includes a specific surfactant, ensuring easy mixing and a powdery finish.

Benefits of technology

The components mix easily, providing excellent color development and a powdery finish in the cosmetic product.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Patent Text Reader

Abstract

To provide oil-based cosmetics that enable a component of hydrogel particles and a component of an oil-based composition to be easily mixed together and offer excellent usability.SOLUTION: Oil-based cosmetics comprise following components (A) and (B). Component (A): hydrogel particles comprising components (A1) and (A2): (A1) a water-based gelator and (A2) powder. Component (B): an oil-based composition comprising components (B1) and (B2): (B1) an oil component being liquid at 25°C and (B2) a surfactant 6-90 mass%, comprising a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 5-14.SELECTED DRAWING: None
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic preparation. [Background technology]

[0002] Conventionally, cosmetics containing hydrogel particles such as agar have been known. For example, Patent Document 1 describes that a composite composition comprising a small spherical aqueous composition containing agar dispersed in a gelled or solidified oily component containing 12-hydroxystearic acid has a novel appearance and an excellent feel when used, and is used as a makeup cosmetic. Furthermore, Patent Document 2 describes that a skin cosmetic product containing agar hydrogel particles and an oily gel made by mixing silicone oil and / or hydrocarbon oil with microparticles of chemically three-dimensionally cross-linked silicone provides a moderate massaging sensation when used. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0003] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2007-22950 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2012-62289 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0004] However, in conventional cosmetics, when the agar hydrogel particles are crushed, the hydrogel components and the oily components in the outer layer are difficult to mix, posing a usability issue. [Means for solving the problem]

[0005] The present inventors have discovered that by mixing hydrogel particles containing powder with an oily composition containing an oil component and a specific surfactant, the components of the hydrogel particles and the components of the oily composition are easily mixed, the product is easy to use, and the powder has excellent color development, resulting in an oily cosmetic product with a powdery finish.

[0006] The present invention comprises the following components (A) and (B): (A) Components (A1) and (A2): (A1) an aqueous gelling agent, (A2) Powder Hydrogel particles comprising: (B) Components (B1) and (B2): (B1) an oil component that is liquid at 25°C; (B2) 6 to 90% by mass of a surfactant containing a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 5 to 14 an oily composition comprising The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic containing [Effects of the Invention]

[0007] In the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention, the components of the hydrogel particles and the components of the oil-based composition are easily mixed, the powder has excellent color development, and a powdery finish can be obtained. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008] The component (A) used in the present invention is hydrogel particles containing (A1) an aqueous gelling agent and (A2) a powder. Here, the hydrogel particles are particles of a gel (hydrogel) obtained from an aqueous gelling agent using water as a solvent. Furthermore, the concept of hydrogel particles does not include capsules, which are made up of an outer shell and an inner core, with the inner and outer layers concentric. Capsules have a shell (external shell), but hydrogel particles do not. Therefore, compared to capsules, hydrogel particles break down more smoothly when applied to the skin, making them easier to spread and leaving no residue behind, demonstrating their superior effect.

[0009] Examples of the aqueous gelling agent (A1) used to form hydrogel particles include seaweed extracts such as agar, κ-carrageenan, ι-carrageenan, λ-carrageenan, furcellaran, alginates, and propylene glycol alginate; plant seed mucilages such as guar gum, locust bean gum, tamarind seed polysaccharides, tara gum, and cassia gum; plant fruit mucilages such as pectin and arabinogalactan; microbial waste mucilages such as xanthan gum, scleroglucan, pullulan, dextran, gellan gum, and curdlan; animal proteins such as gelatin, albumin, and casein; plant proteins such as soybean protein and wheat protein; cellulose and derivatives thereof such as carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, and microcrystalline cellulose; and starch and derivatives thereof such as starch, starch phosphate esters, and starch glycolate esters. Of these, from the viewpoint of forming fragile gel particles that are easily physically disintegrated, it is preferable that the hydrogel particles be formed from one or more types selected from the group consisting of carrageenan, agar, gellan gum, xanthan gum, gelatin, and pectin, and it is more preferable to use agar.

[0010] Furthermore, it is preferable to use a non-crosslinked hydrogel as the hydrogel particle rather than a crosslinked hydrogel. Particles using a crosslinked hydrogel may have a distribution of hardness within the particle, such as the surface being harder than the interior of the particle, but particles using a non-crosslinked hydrogel can make the gel hardness within the particle more uniform. Therefore, when applied to the skin, etc., it can be more smoothly disintegrated by fingers, etc. Here, "non-crosslinked hydrogel" refers to a hydrogel in which gelation does not occur through a reaction with ions, such as potassium ions or calcium ions, but through the thermoreversibility of the sol-gel, as occurs when the gelling agent is agar. The dissolution temperature of agar in water is generally 75°C or higher, with most agars ranging from 75 to 90°C. When agar is dissolved in water and then cooled, the gelation temperature is approximately 30 to 45°C.

[0011] In the hydrogel particles of component (A), the content of the aqueous gelling agent (A1) in the hydrogel particles is preferably 0.6 to 8 mass%, more preferably 0.7 to 6 mass%, and even more preferably 0.8 to 4.5 mass%, from the viewpoint of achieving both moldability and disintegrability.

[0012] The powder (A2) used in the hydrogel particles of component (A) may be any powder commonly used in cosmetics, such as extender pigments, color pigments, and luster pigments. Examples of extender pigments include inorganic pigments such as silicic acid, silicic acid anhydride, magnesium silicate, talc, sericite, boron nitride, mica, synthetic mica, glass flakes, synthetic phlogopite, kaolin, clay, bentonite, bismuth oxychloride, zirconium oxide, magnesium oxide, aluminum oxide, calcium sulfate, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, silica, and alumina, as well as composite powders of these pigments.

[0013] Examples of color pigments include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, Prussian blue, ultramarine, chromium oxide, and chromium hydroxide; metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate; inorganic pigments such as carbon black; synthetic organic pigments such as Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 218, Red No. 223, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228, Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 405, Red No. 505, Orange No. 201, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow 401, Blue No. 1, and Blue 404; and natural organic pigments such as β-carotene, caramel, and paprika pigment.

[0014] Luster pigments that can be used include those in which the surface of plate-like powders such as mica, synthetic phlogopite, glass, silica, alumina, etc. is coated with colorants such as titanium oxide, iron oxide, silicon oxide, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, tin oxide, chromium hydroxide, gold, silver, carmine, organic pigments, etc., and film rolls cut into any shape such as polyethylene terephthalate-polymethyl methacrylate laminated powder, polyethylene terephthalate-aluminum vapor-deposited powder, and polyethylene terephthalate-gold vapor-deposited laminated powder can be used.

[0015] Further, organic powders such as polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, nylon powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, silicone powder, silicone rubber powder, silk powder, urethane powder, cellulose powder, starch powder, and polyethylene fluoride; inorganic powders such as silica, magnesium carbonate, and calcium carbonate; acylated lysine powders such as lauroyl lysine; and metal soap powders, which are higher fatty acid metal salts, can be used.

[0016] There are no limitations on the size, shape, etc. of these powders, and they can be used as they are, or they can be subjected to a hydrophobic or hydrophilic treatment by a conventional method before use. The hydrophobic treatment is not limited to any particular treatment that is commonly performed on powders for cosmetics, and may be a dry treatment, a wet treatment, or the like, using a surface treatment agent such as a fluorine compound, a silicone compound, a metal soap, an amino acid compound, lecithin, an alkylsilane, an oil, or an organic titanate. Specific examples of surface treatment agents include fluorine-based compounds such as perfluoropolyether, perfluoroalkyl phosphate ester, perfluoroalkylalkoxysilane, and fluorine-modified silicone; silicone-based compounds such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, cyclic silicone, organopolysiloxane modified with one or both ends by a trialkoxy group, crosslinked silicone, silicone resin, fluorine-modified silicone resin, and acrylic-modified silicone; and metal stones such as aluminum stearate, aluminum myristate, zinc stearate, and magnesium stearate. soap; amino acid compounds such as proline, hydroxyproline, alanine, glycine, sarcosine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, lauroyl lysine, lysine and their derivatives, and acylated amino acids; lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin; alkyl silanes such as methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, and triethoxycaprylylsilane; oils such as polyisobutylene, waxes, oils and fats, and fatty acids; and organic titanates such as isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate.

[0017] The hydrophilization treatment is not limited as long as it is a treatment that is applied to ordinary cosmetic powders. For example, plant-based polymers such as gum arabic, tragacanth, arabinogalactan, locust bean gum (carob gum), guar gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, quince seed (quince), starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat), algae colloid, tolanthus gum, and locust bean gum; microbial-based polymers such as xanthan gum, dextran, succinoglucan, and pullulan; animal-based polymers such as collagen, casein, albumin, deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) and its salts; and carboxymethyl dextran. Examples of suitable polymers include starch-based polymers such as starch and methylhydroxypropyl starch; cellulose-based polymers such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, nitrocellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, crystalline cellulose, and cellulose powder; alginic acid-based polymers such as sodium alginate and propylene glycol alginate; vinyl-based polymers such as polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and carboxyvinyl polymer; polyoxyethylene-based polymers such as polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol silane; polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene copolymer-based polymers; acrylic-based polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate, and polyacrylic acid amide; and inorganic silica-based compounds such as silica.

[0018] In order to obtain the desired color tone and improve the appearance of the hydrogel particles of component (A), it is preferable that the powder (A2) contains a colorant, and more preferably contains one or more selected from color pigments and luster pigments.

[0019] In the present invention, the hydrogel particles of component (A) contain powder (A2), which allows a powdery finish to be obtained after application to the skin and evaporation of water, and also improves the disintegration properties of the hydrogel particles. In the hydrogel particles of component (A), the (A2) powder can be used alone or in combination of two or more types. From the viewpoints of obtaining excellent color development, a powdery finish, and improving the disintegration properties of the hydrogel particles, the content of the (A2) powder in the hydrogel particles is preferably 2 to 45% by mass, more preferably 3 to 40% by mass, and even more preferably 4 to 35% by mass.

[0020] In addition to the components (A1) and (A2), the hydrogel particles may contain components commonly used in cosmetics, such as moisturizers, surfactants, UV protection agents, skin protectants, antiperspirants, fragrances, antibacterial agents, disinfectants, and texture improvers.

[0021] The hydrogel particles of component (A) can be produced, for example, by the following method. That is, the aqueous gelling agent (A1) is dispersed in water and thoroughly dissolved at its dissolution temperature. Then, the powder (A2) is mixed with the aqueous gelling agent at a temperature equal to or higher than the gelation temperature. Alternatively, the aqueous gelling agent (A1) and the powder (A2) may be dispersed and mixed in water, and then the aqueous gelling agent may be thoroughly dissolved at its dissolution temperature. After this addition and mixing, hydrogel particles can be obtained by a typical method such as dropping, spraying, or stirring. The dropping method is a method for producing hydrogel particles by discharging a mixed liquid from a hole, utilizing the property of the discharged mixed liquid forming droplets due to its surface tension or interfacial tension, and cooling and solidifying the droplets in a gas phase such as air or in a liquid phase. Note that, from the viewpoint of producing hydrogel particles with a uniform particle size, it is preferable to vibrate the mixed liquid being discharged from the hole. The spraying method uses a spray nozzle to spray the mixed liquid from the spray nozzle into a gas phase, forming droplets due to the surface tension, and the droplets are then cooled and solidified in the gas phase to produce hydrogel particles. The stirring method involves adding the mixed liquid to a liquid that is substantially immiscible with the mixed liquid and that has been adjusted to a temperature above the gelation temperature, atomizing the mixed liquid through shear forces caused by stirring, and utilizing the property of the mixed liquid forming droplets due to interfacial tension, by cooling and solidifying the droplets in a liquid that is substantially immiscible with the mixed liquid to produce hydrogel particles. Of these, the dropping method is preferred from the viewpoint of production stability.

[0022] The hydrogel particles thus obtained contain powder therein and can be blended into cosmetics either directly or after oil washing.

[0023] The hydrogel particles of component (A) preferably have an average particle size (number average) of 0.2 mm or more, more preferably 0.5 mm or more, and even more preferably 1 mm or more, from the viewpoint of making the appearance of the hydrogel particles in the cosmetic more striking and making them easier to handle on the skin, and from the viewpoint of enabling stable production, preferably have an average particle size of 8 mm or less, and more preferably 5 mm or less. The average particle size of the hydrogel particles is measured by placing five randomly selected hydrogel particles on black paper and using a vernier caliper or the like. Measurements are made five times for each particle, and the average value is calculated. The particle sizes of a predetermined number of particles are then measured and the average value is calculated to obtain the number-average particle size.

[0024] Component (B) used in the present invention is an oily composition containing (B1) an oil component that is liquid at 25°C, and (B2) a surfactant that includes a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 5-14. With regard to the oil component (B1) that is liquid at 25°C, the term "liquid" means that it has fluidity, and includes paste-like properties. Such oil components may be any oils that are commonly used in cosmetics, such as hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, ether oils, silicone oils, and higher alcohols.

[0025] More specifically, examples of hydrocarbon oils include straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbon oils such as squalane, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, and petrolatum.

[0026] Ester oils include monoester oils, diester oils, triester oils and tetraester oils. Examples of monoester oils include monoesters of aliphatic or aromatic monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acids having 2 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific examples include cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, myristyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, decyl oleate, isodecyl benzoate, octyl methoxycinnamate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, and alkyl benzoates (C12 to C15).

[0027] Examples of diester oils include diesters of dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms and difatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols. Specific examples include propylene glycol dicaprylate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, glycol distearate, propylene glycol diisostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate monoisostearate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisostearyl malate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, diisobutyl adipate, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, and di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate.

[0028] Triester oils include tri-fatty acid esters of trivalent or higher polyhydric alcohols, and specific examples include glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, glyceryl tri-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane trioctanoate, tri(caprylic / capric)glyceryl, glyceryl trioleate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, olive oil, and jojoba oil.

[0029] Examples of tetraester oils include tetra-fatty acid esters of tetrahydric or higher polyhydric alcohols, and specific examples include pentaerythritol tetra(behenate / benzoate / ethylhexanoate), pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, and pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate.

[0030] The ether oils include dialkyl ethers, and specific examples thereof include dihexyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, and cetyl-1,3-dimethylbutyl ether.

[0031] Examples of silicone oils include crosslinked methylpolysiloxane, network methylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxanes such as methyltrimethicone, dimethylcyclopolysiloxane and diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, and higher alcohol-modified organopolysiloxanes. Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear dimethylpolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (1cs), dimethylpolysiloxane (1.5cs), and dimethylpolysiloxane (2cs); branched siloxanes such as methyltrimethicone, tris(trimethylsilyl)methylsilane, and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)silane; and cyclic dimethylsiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

[0032] Examples of higher alcohols include those having a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, and oleyl alcohol.

[0033] In the component (B) oil-based composition, the (B1) oil component that is liquid at 25°C can be used alone or in combination of two or more types. From the viewpoints of ease of mixing, powdery finish, and ease of application, the content of the oil-based composition is preferably 0.5 to 93 mass%, more preferably 1 to 92 mass%, and even more preferably 5 to 91 mass%.

[0034] The surfactant of component (B2) includes a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 5-14. Examples of nonionic surfactants include sorbitan fatty acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, propylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene propylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene phytostanol ether, polyoxyethylene phytosterose ether, polyoxyethylene cholestanol ether, polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether, alkyl glyceryl ether-modified silicones, polyether-modified silicones, polyoxyalkylene-alkyl co-modified silicones, and polyoxyalkylene-fluoroalkyl co-modified silicones.

[0035] Of these, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are preferred from the viewpoints of ease of mixing, powdery finish, and ease of application.

[0036] These nonionic surfactants have an HLB of 5 to 14, preferably 7 to 12, from the viewpoints of ease of mixing, powdery finish, and ease of application.

[0037] Here, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) indicates the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group portion in the total molecular weight of the surfactant, and for nonionic surfactants, it can be calculated using Griffin's formula. The HLB of a surfactant mixture consisting of two or more nonionic surfactants can be calculated as follows: The HLB of the surfactant mixture is the arithmetic average of the HLB values ​​of each nonionic surfactant based on their blending ratio.

[0038] Mixed HLB=Σ(HLBx×Wx) / ΣWx HLBx indicates the HLB value of nonionic surfactant X. Wx represents the weight (g) of the nonionic surfactant X having the value of HLBx.

[0039] In the component (B) oily composition, the (B2) surfactant can be used alone or in combination of two or more types, and the content thereof in the oily composition is 6 to 90 mass %, preferably 7 to 88 mass %, and more preferably 8 to 85 mass %, from the viewpoint of facilitating mixing of the hydrogel particle components and the oily composition components.

[0040] The oily composition of component (B) may further contain (B3) an oily gelling agent. Oily gelling agents include those commonly used in cosmetics, such as solid waxes, metal soaps, organically modified clay minerals, nanosilica, dextrin fatty acid esters, and amino acid gelling agents.

[0041] Examples of solid waxes include waxes with a melting point of 61° C. or higher. Waxes with a melting point of 61° C. or higher exhibit solid properties at 25° C. In this invention, the melting point is measured according to Method 3 of the General Testing Methods in the Standards for Cosmetic Ingredients. Specifically, the sample is gradually heated to 90–92°C while stirring until melted. Heating is stopped, and the sample is allowed to cool to a temperature 8–10°C above the melting point. Next, a thermometer (a petrolatum melting point thermometer specified in Japanese Industrial Standards B7410) is cooled to 5°C, after which moisture is wiped off with filter paper. Half of the mercury bulb is inserted into the sample, immediately removed, and allowed to cool vertically. When the sample becomes cloudy, the thermometer is immersed in water at a temperature of 16°C or less for 5 minutes. The thermometer is then inserted into a test tube and secured with a cork so that the bottom of the thermometer is 15 mm from the bottom of the test tube. The test tube is then placed in a 500 mL beaker containing approximately 16°C water, with the bottom of the test tube secured 15 mm from the bottom of the beaker, and heated at a rate of 2°C per minute until the bath temperature reaches 30°C. Next, continue heating at a rate of 1°C per minute, and measure the temperature when a drop of the sample separates from the thermometer. This test is carried out three times, and if the difference in the measured values ​​is less than 1°C, the average is taken. If the difference is 1°C or more, measure five times and take the average, which is the melting point.

[0042] Such waxes are not limited as long as they are those commonly used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include mineral waxes such as ozokerite and ceresin; petroleum waxes such as paraffin and microcrystalline wax; synthetic hydrocarbons such as Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, and synthetic hydrocarbon wax; plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, and sunflower wax; animal waxes such as beeswax and whale wax; and synthetic waxes such as silicone wax and synthetic beeswax. Of these, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, and synthetic hydrocarbon wax are preferred from the viewpoints of improving shape retention, improving usability, and efficiently gelling the oil agent to impart an appropriate thickness to the coating film. Furthermore, from the viewpoints of improving storage stability, improving usability, and efficiently gelling the oil agent to impart an appropriate thickness to the coating film, the solid wax preferably has a melting point of 65°C or higher and 140°C or lower, and more preferably 70°C or higher and 105°C or lower.

[0043] Examples of metal soaps include fatty acid metal salts such as zinc stearate, aluminum stearate, calcium stearate, magnesium stearate, aluminum myristate, and zinc myristate. Of these, it is preferable to contain at least zinc stearate from the viewpoints of improving the feeling of use and efficiently gelling the oil agent to impart an appropriate thickness to the coating film.

[0044] The organically modified clay mineral may be any that is commonly used in cosmetics, and is not particularly limited. For example, a cationically modified clay mineral obtained by treating a layered clay mineral such as bentonite, laponite, hectorite, montmorillonite, or magnesium aluminum silicate with a quaternary ammonium salt-type cationic surfactant is preferred. Here, the quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant is represented by the following formula (1):

[0045] [ka]

[0046] (In the formula, R 1 represents an alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and R 2 represents a methyl group or an alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and R 3 and R 4 represents an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and X represents a halogen atom or a methyl sulfate residue. It is expressed as:

[0047] Specifically, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, myristyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, myristyldimethylethylammonium chloride, cetyldimethylethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylethylammonium chloride, behenyldimethylethylammonium chloride, myristyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, cetyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, stearyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, behenyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, Examples of the hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride include benzyl dimethyl myristyl ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethyl cetyl ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethyl behenyl ammonium chloride, benzyl methyl ethyl cetyl ammonium chloride, benzyl methyl ethyl stearyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dibehenyl dihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, and the above compounds in which the chloride is replaced with a bromide compound, as well as dipalmityl propyl ethyl ammonium methyl sulfate. Of these, from the viewpoint of efficiently gelling the oil and imparting an appropriate thickness to the coating film, benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride and dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride are preferred, and those containing at least dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride are preferred.

[0048] Preferred examples of cationically modified clay minerals obtained by treating layered clay minerals with quaternary ammonium salt-type cationic surfactants include dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite, dimethyl distearyl ammonium bentonite, and benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium hectorite, with dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite being more preferred. Commercially available products include Benton 38, Benton 38VCG, and Benton 27 (all manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.).

[0049] The organically modified clay mineral can also be used as a dispersion diluted with a solvent, because it improves workability and has an excellent effect of thickening oil. Specifically, it is preferable to use a premix gel in which the organically modified clay mineral is dispersed in a solvent in advance. The solvent is not limited as long as it can be thickened by the organically modified clay mineral, but from the viewpoint of the thickening effect of oil, octyldodecanol, mineral oil, etc. are preferred. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of efficiently dispersing the organically modified clay mineral and exhibiting the thickening effect, it is preferable to contain polar additives such as propylene carbonate, ethanol, water, various surfactants, etc. The content of the organically modified clay mineral in the premix gel is preferably 5 to 25% by mass, more preferably 8 to 20% by mass, and even more preferably 10 to 18% by mass, from the viewpoints of improving workability, thickening the oil, and suppressing oil separation from the thickened oily gel itself. As the premix gel, commercially available products such as Benton Gel EUGV, Benton Gel MIOV, Benton Gel VS-5 PCV, and Benton Gel PTM (all manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.), each containing 10% by mass of cation-modified clay minerals, Benton Gel VS-5 PCV, each containing 18% by mass of cation-modified clay minerals, and Benton Gel PTM, each containing 15% by mass of cation-modified clay minerals, can be used.

[0050] Nanosilica refers to silica particles with an average primary particle size of 100 nm or less. From the viewpoint of efficiently gelling the oil and imparting an appropriate thickness to the coating film, the average particle size is preferably from 5 to 100 nm, more preferably from 10 to 80 nm, and even more preferably from 10 to 40 nm. In addition, nano-silica is used to improve the feel of use and to efficiently gel oils to give the coating a suitable thickness. The specific surface area measured by the BET method is 5m 2 / g or more, and 2 / g or more is more preferable, and 450m 2 / g or less is preferable, and 420m 2 / g or less is more preferable. In order to improve the affinity with various oils, the surface of the nanosilica is preferably hydrophobized. Examples of hydrophobization treatments include silicone treatment, metal soap treatment, alkyl treatment, fluorine treatment, amino acid treatment, and resin polymer treatment, with silicone treatment and alkyl treatment being particularly preferred. Commercially available nanosilica products include, for example, Aerosil OX50, RX50, RY50, RY51, RM50, 50, NAX50, NY50, NA50H, NA50Y, 90G, NA90G, REA90, 130, R972, R972CF, R972V, RY200S, 150, R202, 200, 200CF, and 2 00V, R974, R9200, RX200, R8200, RY200, RY200L, RA200H, RA200HS, REA200, R805, R711, R7200, 400, R976, R976S, RX300, R812, R812S, RY300, and 380 (all manufactured by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.).

[0051] The dextrin fatty acid ester is not limited as long as it is one that is commonly used in cosmetics, and is preferably an ester of dextrin with a fatty acid having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably an ester of dextrin with a fatty acid having 14 to 20 carbon atoms. In addition, the average degree of polymerization of the dextrin is preferably 3 to 150. Specific examples include dextrin palmitate, dextrin stearate, dextrin palmitate-stearate, dextrin oleate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isostearate, dextrin myristate, and dextrin palmitate-2-ethylhexanoate. Of these, from the viewpoints of improving the feel in use and efficiently gelling the oil to impart an appropriate thickness to the coating film, dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, and dextrin palmitate / 2-ethylhexanoate are preferred, and those containing at least dextrin palmitate are more preferred. Examples of commercially available products include dextrin palmitate (Leopearl KL2, Leopearl TL2) and dextrin myristate (Leopearl MKL2) manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.

[0052] Any amino acid gelling agent may be used without limitation as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics. Specifically, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethyl hexanoyl glutamide are preferred. Commercially available products of these include dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (GP-1) and dibutyl ethyl hexanoyl glutamide (EB-21) manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

[0053] The amino acid gelling agent can also be used as a premix gel in which it is diluted and dissolved in a solvent, because it is easy to work with and has excellent oil gelling properties. Specifically, it is preferable to use a premix gel in which an amino acid gelling agent is dissolved in a solvent in advance. The solvent is not limited as long as it can be gelled by the amino acid gelling agent, but from the viewpoint of oil gelation, octyldodecanol, isostearic acid, etc. are preferred. The content of the amino acid gelling agent in the premix gel is preferably 10 to 45% by mass, more preferably 15 to 40% by mass, and even more preferably 20 to 36% by mass, from the viewpoints of improving workability, preventing oil gelation, and suppressing oil separation from the premix gel itself. As the premix gel, commercially available products such as AJK-OD2046 containing 20% ​​by mass of an amino acid gelling agent and AJK-IS3613 containing 36% by mass (both manufactured by Kokyu Alcohol Co., Ltd.) can be used.

[0054] As the oily gelling agent of component (B3), from the viewpoints of feel in use and transparency of appearance, dextrin fatty acid esters and amino acid-based gelling agents are preferred, dextrin fatty acids are more preferred, and dextrin palmitate is even more preferred.

[0055] In the component (B) oily composition, the (B3) oily gelling agent can be used alone or in combination of two or more. From the viewpoint of moldability, the content thereof in the oily composition is preferably 1 to 30% by mass, more preferably 3 to 20% by mass, and even more preferably 5 to 15% by mass.

[0056] In addition to the components (B1), (B2), and (B3), the oil-based composition of component (B) may contain components commonly used in cosmetics, such as surfactants other than (B2), such as nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants, oil components other than those mentioned above, lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, polymeric compounds, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, dyes, fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusters, blood circulation promoters, anti-inflammatory agents, cooling agents, disinfectants, skin activators, moisturizers, thickeners, and the like, within the scope of the invention. The oily composition of component (B) can be produced by mixing the ingredients. From the viewpoint of aesthetics, the oily composition of component (B) is preferably transparent to translucent to the extent that the hydrogel particles of component (A) can be visually discerned. For example, when the base is placed in a quartz cell (type: AB10-UV-0.5, Cat. No.: 621016105, 0.5 mm path length cell (manufactured by GL Sciences)) and the transmittance is measured at a measurement wavelength of 550 nm using a UV-1800 ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), the transmittance is preferably 40% or more, and more preferably 50% or more. There is no particular upper limit to the transmittance of the applied base material measured by the above method, and it is 100% or less.

[0057] The oily cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by mixing the hydrogel particles of component (A) with the oily composition of component (B). From the viewpoint of aesthetics, the mass ratio of (B):(A) is preferably 90:10 to 10:90, and more preferably 40:60 to 20:80. These mass ratios can be adjusted as appropriate depending on the desired appearance and feel during use. For example, from the perspective of obtaining a glossier, oilier finish with a smaller amount of hydrogel particles, it is preferable that the mass ratio of components (B) and (A) is (B):(A) = 90:10 to 50:50. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of obtaining a more moisturized, powdery finish with a larger amount of hydrogel particles, the mass ratio of components (B) and (A) is preferably (B):(A)=50:50 to 10:90.

[0058] The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic containing the oily composition of component (B) as a continuous phase, and is used on the skin, lips, eyelashes, nails, and hair, preferably on the skin and lips. Examples of the cosmetic include lipstick, lip balm, lip gloss, lip liner, and other lip cosmetics; mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow, blush, foundation, and concealer, and other makeup cosmetics; cream, emulsion, serum, massage aid, deodorant, sunscreen, hair growth agent, hair color, hair wax, and hair foam. Lip cosmetics and makeup cosmetics are particularly suitable. [Example]

[0059] Production Examples 1 to 13 (Production of Hydrogel Particles) Hydrogel particles were produced with the composition shown in Table 1, and their moldability and disintegration properties were evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 1.

[0060] (Manufacturing method) Water was heated to 90-95°C, and the aqueous gelling agent (A1) and hydrophilic surfactant (oxyethylene sorbitan monooleate) were added and stirred until uniformly dissolved. After that, the powder (A2) was added and mixed uniformly. The resulting liquid composition was added dropwise in a molten state to room temperature silicone oil using a 1mm diameter syringe to produce small spheres (hydrogel particles) of approximately 2mm.

[0061] (Evaluation method) (1)Moldability: The liquid composition was dropped into silicone oil and the state of the composition was visually observed by five expert panelists, who evaluated it according to the following criteria. The results are shown as the total score of the five panelists. 4: It has become a beautiful sphere and has gelled. 3: It has become a fairly neat sphere and has gelled. 1: Not spherical, but gelled. 0: No gelation and fluidity.

[0062] (2) Disintegration: Five expert panelists placed one particle of each hydrogel on the back of their hand and crushed it with their fingers. The degree of disintegration was evaluated according to the following criteria. The results are shown as the total score of the five panelists. 4: It crumbles easily on the back of the hand and leaves no residue. 3: It crumbles easily on the back of the hand, but some residue remains. 2: It crumbles easily on the back of the hand, but leaves behind residue. 1: Does not crumble on the back of the hand. 0: Small pellets of the aqueous composition were not formed and the test could not be carried out.

[0063] [Table 1]

[0064] *1: Agar CS-16A, manufactured by Ina Food Industry Co., Ltd. *2: Leodor TW-O120V, manufactured by Kao Corporation *3: COLORONA SIENNA, manufactured by Merck

[0065] Examples 1 to 9, Comparative Examples 1 to 4 An oil-based cosmetic was produced by preparing an oil-based composition having the composition shown in Table 2 and mixing it with the hydrogel particles of Production Example 2. The obtained oil-based cosmetic was evaluated for ease of blending, color development, and powdery finish. The results are also shown in Table 2.

[0066] (Manufacturing method) Components (B2) and (B3) were added to component (B1) as needed, and the mixture was heated to approximately 110°C until uniformly dissolved. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature to prepare an oil-based composition. This was mixed with component (A) hydrogel particles (Production Example 2) at room temperature in the proportions shown in Table 2, and the mixture was uniformly dispersed with a stirring rod to produce an oil-based cosmetic.

[0067] (Evaluation method) (3) Ease of mixing: Five expert panelists placed a mixture of each oily composition and hydrogel particles in the proportions shown in Table 2 on the back of their hand and crushed it with their fingers to evaluate the ease of mixing according to the following criteria. The results are shown as the total score of the five panelists. 4: Very easy to mix. 3: Somewhat easy to mix. 2: It doesn't mix well. 1: Do not mix.

[0068] (4) Color development: Five expert panelists evaluated the color development of each oil-based cosmetic when it was applied to the lips, according to the following criteria. The results are shown as the total score of the five panelists. 4: Very vivid color. 3: The color is somewhat vivid. 2: The color is not very vivid. 1: No color development.

[0069] (5) Powdery finish: Five expert panelists evaluated the finish of each oil-based cosmetic product when it was applied to the eyelids, based on the following criteria. The results are shown as the total score of the five panelists. 4: Very powdery finish. 3: A slightly powdery finish. 2: Not a very powdery finish. 1: Does not have a powdery finish.

[0070] [Table 2]

[0071] *1: Cosmol 42V, manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group *2: Cosmol 41V, manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group *3: Leodor TW-S320V, manufactured by Kao Corporation *4: Leodor TW-O120V, manufactured by Kao Corporation *5: Salakos 913, manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group *6: Leopard KL2, manufactured by Chiba Flour Mills

Claims

1. The following components (A) and (B): (A) Components (A1) and (A2): (A1) an aqueous gelling agent, (A2) Powder Hydrogel particles having an average particle size of 0.2 to 5 mm, (B) Components (B1) and (B2): (B1) an oil component containing an ester oil that is liquid at 25°C; (B2) A surfactant containing one or more nonionic surfactants having an HLB of 7 to 12 selected from polyglycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters. (B) 6 to 90% by mass of the oily composition. an oily composition comprising An oily cosmetic comprising: An oil-based cosmetic, wherein the mass ratio of component (B) to component (A) is (B):(A) 40:60 to 20:

80.

2. 2. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein in component (A), (A1) the aqueous gelling agent is agar.

3. 3. The oily cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein component (A) contains 0.6 to 8% by mass of agar.

4. The oily cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein component (A) contains 2 to 45 mass% of (A2) powder.

5. The oily cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein in component (A), the powder (A2) contains a colorant.

6. The oily cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the oily composition of component (B) further contains (B3) an oily gelling agent.

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