Local delivery systems containing cellulose nanofibers

Abstract

A topical delivery system is described. The topical delivery system includes at least one skin care active and nanocellulose in a cosmetic composition. Surprisingly, it has been found that the presence of nanocellulose in the cosmetic composition enhances or modulates the penetration of the skin care active. The present application further describes cosmetic compositions including a skin care active and nanocellulose, and uses thereof.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] (Information about priority applications) This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 62 / 836,926, filed April 22, 2019, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

[0002] FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present disclosure relates generally to cosmetic delivery systems and compositions comprising cellulose nanofibers for topical delivery of skin care actives to human skin for cosmetic or dermatological purposes. [Background technology]

[0003] The skin has two main layers: the epidermis and the dermis. The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin. The dermis is the lower layer of the skin containing collagen and elastin fibers that provides strength to the skin and where the cutaneous vasculature and nerves are found. The epidermis is composed of five layers. The outermost layer is the stratum corneum, followed by the stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, and finally the stratum basale as the deepest layer adjacent to the dermis.

[0004] It is believed that various skin care active substances in cosmetic compositions need to penetrate the stratum corneum.It is known to use penetration enhancer in topically applied compositions to deliver active substances.However, there is still a need for an improved topical delivery system for skin care active substances and compositions. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0005] [Figure 1] 1 is a graph showing a comparison of the permeation effect of caffeine in a formulation containing cellulose nanofibers and a formulation not containing cellulose nanofibers. [Figure 2]1 is a graph showing a comparison of the permeation effect of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G) in a formulation containing cellulose nanofibers and a formulation not containing cellulose nanofibers. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The present invention relates to topical delivery systems comprising at least one skin care active and nanocellulose in a cosmetic composition, particularly to provide a cosmetic benefit such as skin care, makeup, or a combination thereof, compositions comprising such actives, and uses thereof. The present invention further relates to methods for modulating the delivery, particularly the delivery and effectiveness, of the skin care actives in the compositions disclosed herein.

[0007] Specifically, the present invention relates to a topical delivery system comprising at least one skin care active and nanocellulose in a cosmetic composition, wherein the nanocellulose is present in an amount of about 0.001% to about 50% by total weight of the composition, and the skin care active is a negative logP active or a positive logP active. Actives with negative log P include one or more of niacinamide, kojic acid, 3-o-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, zincidone (zinc salt of L-pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid), glucosamine, allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin, glyoxylic acid diureide), ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, aspartic acid, threonine, glycine, L-ornithine, alanine, lysine, histidine, cysteine, valine, methionine, tyrosine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, tryptophan, hyaluronic acid, or sodium hyaluronate; actives with positive log P include one or more of caffeine, retinol, retinol derivatives, cholesterol, sterols, vitamin E and derivatives, benzophenone and chemical sunscreens, or salicylic acid. Additionally, the cosmetic composition in the topical delivery system can be one or more of a DNA repair enzyme, a sunscreen active, a moisturizer, a botanical extract, a peptide, an oil, a thickener, a surfactant, a vitamin, an antioxidant, a preservative, or a dermatologically acceptable carrier, and the nanocellulose present in the composition comprises at least one of cellulose nanofibers, cellulose nanocrystals, or bacterial nanocellulose, and is preferably phosphated cellulose nanofibers or crystalline nanocellulose.

[0008] The present invention further relates to a method for modulating or improving the topical delivery of a skin care active into the skin, the method comprising topically applying to the skin a composition comprising the skin care active and nanocellulose. Skin care actives include one or more of niacinamide, kojic acid, 3-o-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, zincidone (zinc salt of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid), glucosamine, allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin, glyoxylic acid diureide), ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, aspartic acid, threonine, glycine, L-ornithine, alanine, lysine, histidine, cysteine, valine, methionine, tyrosine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, tryptophan, hyaluronic acid, or sodium hyaluronate, or one or more of caffeine, retinol or retinol derivatives, cholesterol, sterols, vitamin E and derivatives, benzophenone and chemical sunscreens, or salicylic acid. The nanocellulose may include at least one of cellulose nanofibers, cellulose nanocrystals, or bacterial nanocellulose.

[0009] Also disclosed is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a skin care active, nanocellulose, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier, wherein the nanocellulose is present in an amount of about 0.001% to about 50% by total weight of the composition, the skin care active is a negative logP active or a positive logP active, and the composition is substantially free of parabens. The invention further relates to a method of treating the appearance of human skin by administering to the skin an effective amount of the composition, wherein the treatment provides at least one cosmetic benefit selected from treating / preventing wrinkles, sagging, dryness, aging, and / or photodamaged skin, enhancing or maintaining collagen levels in the skin, enhancing or maintaining decorin levels in the skin, improving skin texture, smoothness, or firmness, and soothing irritated, reddened, or sensitive skin. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] To facilitate understanding of the present invention, several terms are defined below. Terms defined herein have meanings commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art relevant to the present invention. Terms such as "a," "an," and "the" are not intended to refer to a singular entity only, but include general classifications for which specific examples may be used for illustration. While terms herein are used to describe particular embodiments of the present invention, their usage does not delimit the scope of the invention, except as outlined in the claims.

[0011] The term "active ingredient" or "active agent" or "cosmetic agent" refers to a cosmetic agent utilized to deliver a benefit to the skin. An "active ingredient" or "active agent" or "cosmetic agent" will cause a change or deliver a considered benefit to the skin of a subject, thus assisting in achieving a desired, expected, or intended result. The term "active ingredient" or "active agent" or "cosmetic agent" according to the present invention includes cosmetically acceptable excipients or carriers that may be present in the composition / formulation.

[0012] The terms "prevent" and "preventing" include prevention of the recurrence, spread, or onset of a skin or hair condition. It is not intended that the present invention be limited to complete prevention.

[0013] The term "subject" refers to any mammal, preferably a human.

[0014] The term "topical" refers to the administration of one or more agents (eg, cosmetics, vitamins, etc.) to the skin.

[0015] The terms "transdermal" or "topical" refer to delivery of an agent (e.g., a cosmetic, dermatological agent, vitamin, etc.) through the skin (e.g., such that at least a portion of the particle population reaches the underlying layers of the skin).

[0016] The term "hydrophilic" refers to the physical property of a molecule that can transiently associate with water, i.e., can bind to water through hydrogen bonds. The terms "hydrophobic" or "lipophilic" refer to the physical property of a molecule that repels water masses. The term "hydrophobic" is used interchangeably with lipophilic, i.e., "fat-loving." However, the two terms are not synonymous. Hydrophobic substances are usually lipophilic, although there are exceptions, such as silicones and fluorocarbons.

[0017] The term "solvent" refers to a liquid, solid, or gaseous solute that forms a solution.

[0018] The terms "inhibiting," "reducing," or "preventing," or any variation of these terms, as used in the claims and / or this specification, include any measurable decrease or complete inhibition that achieves a desired result.

[0019] The term "effective," as that term is used in the specification and / or claims, means sufficient to accomplish a desired, expected, or intended result.

[0020] The term nanofiber refers to fibers having a width of about 0.1 to 1000 nanometers.

[0021] The term nanofiber refers to a fiber having a length greater than 100 nanometers.

[0022] The term "logP" value is a constant defined as logP = log10 (partition coefficient). The LogP algorithm, when used in most common systems, calculates the partition between octan-1-ol and water.

[0023] The term "negative logP" refers to a compound that has a high affinity for the aqueous phase and is therefore hydrophilic.

[0024] The term "positive logP" refers to compounds that are hydrophobic or lipophilic and exhibit higher lipid phase concentrations.

[0025] As referred to herein, when logP is zero, such a compound partitions equally between the lipid and aqueous phases.

[0026] Except in the Examples and Comparative Examples, or where otherwise expressly indicated, all numbers in this specification expressing amounts or ratios of ingredients or reaction conditions, physical properties of ingredients and / or uses should be understood to be modified by the word "about." All amounts are expressed as weight percentages of the final cosmetic agent unless otherwise specified.

[0027] The present invention relates to a method for repairing skin using nanocellulose fibers, in some embodiments, the present invention relates to a composition for repairing skin using nanocellulose present in a cosmetic composition.

[0028] As skin ages or endures environmental or age-related damage, measurable changes occur in the skin. Such damage causes a general decrease in cellular and tissue vitality, a decrease in cell replication rate, a decrease in skin blood flow, a decrease in moisture content, structural and functional errors, changes in biochemical pathways, and a decrease in the skin's ability to remodel and repair itself. Surprisingly, it has been found that the presence of nanocellulose in a cosmetic or dermatological composition enhances the penetration of skin care actives with negative log P into the skin, thereby repairing and treating the appearance of the skin. Surprisingly, it has also been found that the presence of nanocellulose in a cosmetic composition limits and / or regulates the penetration of skin care actives with positive log P, thereby reducing the delivery of the actives into the skin.

[0029] Nanocellulose refers to nanostructured cellulose, including, but not limited to, cellulose nanofibers (CNF) (also known as microfibrillated cellulose (MFC)), cellulose nanocrystals (CNC or NCC), or bacterial nanocellulose (nanostructured cellulose produced by bacteria). Nanocellulose fibers typically have widths in the range of 1 nm to 1000 nm, preferably about 1 nm to about 100 nm, and lengths greater than 1 micrometer, and in some embodiments, greater than 500 nm.

[0030] One aspect of the present invention is a topical delivery system. In one embodiment, the topical delivery system comprises at least one skin care active and nanocellulose in a cosmetic composition. Any type of skin care active can be utilized. The skin care active can be hydrophobic, lipophilic (actives with a positive logP), or hydrophilic (actives with a negative logP). The skin care active can be a small molecule, lipid, peptide, DNA molecule, biomolecule, enzyme, or combinations thereof.

[0031] In one embodiment, the skin care active is a negative log P active, including, but not limited to, niacinamide, kojic acid, 3-o-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, zincidone (zinc salt of L-pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid), glucosamine, allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin, glyoxylic acid diureide), ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, aspartic acid, threonine, glycine, L-ornithine, alanine, lysine, histidine, cysteine, valine, methionine, tyrosine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, tryptophan, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, or combinations thereof. According to another embodiment, the skin care active may be a positive logP active, including but not limited to, retinol and retinol derivatives, caffeine, phenoxyethanol, cholesterol, sterols, vitamin E and derivatives, benzophenones, chemical sunscreens, salicylic acid, benzophenones, and chemical sunscreens, among others.

[0032] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include, but is not limited to, one or more of the following: a DNA repair enzyme, a sunscreen active, a moisturizer, a botanical extract, a peptide, an oil, a thickener, a surfactant, a vitamin, an antioxidant, a preservative, or a carrier, which, when present in the composition, is dermatologically or cosmetically acceptable.

[0033] The nanocellulose may comprise at least one of cellulose nanofibers, cellulose nanocrystals, or bacterial nanocellulose. In some embodiments, the nanocellulose comprises phosphated cellulose nanofibers. In some embodiments, the nanocellulose comprises crystalline nanocellulose.

[0034] In a preferred embodiment, the skin care active comprises a skin care active and the nanocellulose comprises phosphated cellulose nanofibers.

[0035] The composition comprises nanocellulose in the range of about 0.0001-50%, preferably about 0.0005-40%, more preferably about 0.001-35% by total weight of the composition.

[0036] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for modulating the delivery of skin care actives present in a cosmetic composition by utilizing the nanocellulose disclosed herein in the composition. The composition according to the present invention, comprising nanocellulose and at least one skin care active, wherein the skin care active is a negative p log active, provides enhanced active delivery, specifically about 2-10 fold enhanced effective delivery, compared to a composition without nanocellulose. For example, as disclosed in the experiments described herein, but not limited to, AA2G, when present in a composition according to the present invention, provides at least about 3-5 fold enhanced delivery of AA2G compared to a composition without nanocellulose.

[0037] In another embodiment, a composition according to the present invention comprising nanocellulose and at least one skin care active, wherein the skin care active is a positive P log active, modulating or limiting delivery of the active compared to a composition without nanocellulose. For example, but not limited to, the positive P log active is selected from the group including caffeine, benzophenone and chemical sunscreens, salicylic acid, retinol and derivatives, vitamin E and derivatives, cholesterol, phenoxyethanol, among others.

[0038] The delivery of retinol should be controlled, as increased delivery of retinol into the skin is believed to cause skin irritation. In one embodiment, when present in a composition according to the present invention, retinol limits or reduces the delivery of retinol into the skin. Retinol is used at about 1-4% (w / w) of the composition. In an embodiment, according to the present invention, a composition comprising nanocellulose and retinol controls the delivery of retinol into the skin, providing sustained release and reduced delivery into the skin, thereby avoiding skin irritation that may be caused by increased delivery of retinol.

[0039] In other embodiments, phenoxyethanol is used at about 0.1-2% (w / w) of the composition. In embodiments, in accordance with the present invention, compositions comprising nanocellulose and phenoxyethanol provide modulated delivery into the skin, resulting in reduced penetration into the skin.

[0040] In another embodiment, the chemical sunscreen (benzophenone) is used at about 1-6% (w / w) of the composition. In an embodiment, according to the present invention, a composition comprising nanocellulose and a chemical sunscreen (benzophenone) provides controlled delivery into the skin, resulting in reduced penetration into the skin.

[0041] In one embodiment, a method of regulating the delivery of a skin care active is disclosed, wherein when a skin care active with a positive log P is used in a composition (comprising nanocellulose), the method limits or regulates the delivery of the skin care active into the skin. Thus, in one embodiment, the compositions disclosed herein comprising nanocellulose can be utilized, when applied topically, to regulate, regulate, and thereby limit the delivery of an active that is a positive log P active, such as retinol, into the skin. For example, it should be noted that the delivery of retinol must generally be limited because high amounts of retinol can cause irritation to the layers of the skin.

[0042] The nanocellulose may comprise at least one of cellulose nanofibers, cellulose nanocrystals, or bacterial nanocellulose. In some embodiments, the nanocellulose comprises phosphated cellulose nanofibers. In some embodiments, the nanocellulose comprises crystalline nanocellulose.

[0043] In a preferred embodiment, the nanocellulose comprises phosphorylated cellulose nanofibers. The composition comprises nanocellulose in the range of about 0.0001 to 50%, preferably about 0.0005 to 40%, more preferably about 0.001 to 35% by weight of the total composition.

[0044] A preferred embodiment of the present invention is a topical delivery system for regulating and improving the delivery of actives into the skin. In one embodiment, the topical delivery system comprises at least one negative logP skin care active and phosphated nanocellulose in a cosmetic composition, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier or emollient.

[0045] Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is a topical delivery system for regulating, controlling, and limiting the delivery of an active into the skin. In one embodiment, the topical delivery system comprises at least one positive logP skin care active and phosphated nanocellulose in a cosmetic composition, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier or emollient.

[0046] In one embodiment, negative log P skin care actives comprise a charge / value in the range of −0.01 to about −100. In another embodiment, positive log P skin care actives comprise a log P value in the range of about 0.01 to about 100.

[0047] Table 1 below shows, but is not limited to, the log P values ​​of active agents utilized in accordance with the invention disclosed herein.

[0048] [Table 1]

[0049] The nanocellulose may comprise at least one of cellulose nanofibers, cellulose nanocrystals, or bacterial nanocellulose. In some embodiments, the nanocellulose comprises phosphated cellulose nanofibers. In some embodiments, the nanocellulose comprises crystalline nanocellulose.

[0050] In a preferred embodiment, the nanocellulose comprises phosphorylated cellulose nanofibers. The composition comprises nanocellulose in the range of about 0.0001 to 50%, preferably about 0.0005 to 40%, more preferably about 0.001 to 35% by weight of the total composition.

[0051] The compositions of the present invention can be formulated as cosmetic products. In some embodiments, the compositions can be formulated to have a pH in the range of about 1 to 10. In some embodiments, the compositions can have a pH of less than about 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 6.0, 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, 6.4, 6.5, 6.6, 6.7, 6.8, 6.9, 7.0, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 7.4, 7.5, 7.6, 7.7, 7.8, 7.9, 8.0, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.4, 8.5, 8.6, 8.7, 8.8, 8.9, 9.0, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4, 9.5, 9.6, 9.7, 9.8, 9.9, 10.0, 10.1, 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5, 10.6, 10.7, 10.8, 10.9, 11.1, 11.2, 11.3, 11.4, 11.5, 11.6, 11.7, 11.8, 11.9, 12.1, 12.2, 12.3, 12.4, 12.5, 12 The compositions can be formulated to have a pH of from 6, 8.7, 8.8, 8.9, 9.0, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4, 9.5, 9.6, 9.7, 9.8, 9.9, 10.0, 10.1, 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5, 10.6, 10.7, 10.8, 10.9, 11.0, 11.1, 11.2, 11.3, 11.4, 11.5, 11.6, 11.7, 11.8, 11.9, up to about 12.0 or higher, or any range or integer derivable therein.

[0052] The composition can be formulated as a cosmetic product in a cosmetic carrier as an emulsion, cream, lotion, gel, serum, solution, base, spray, or foam, among others. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a liquid composition.

[0053] In one embodiment, the present invention contemplates a liquid, semi-solid, or solid composition comprising nanocellulose for use on the skin. According to certain embodiments, the composition further comprises an active ingredient, a cosmetic agent, or a cosmetically acceptable carrier or excipient or emollient.

[0054] Uses and Benefits The composition can be formulated as a cosmetic product in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for use on the skin in the form of, inter alia, an emulsion, cream, lotion, gel, serum, solution, spray, base, or foam. The various skin care actives, nanocellulose, and cosmetic composition ingredients discussed herein can also be used in this topical delivery system. Such a system may further include a treatment regimen, instructions on how to use the composition of the present invention with any other similar cosmetic or makeup composition, treatment regimen, or application.

[0055] Another aspect of the present invention is the use of a composition comprising nanocellulose for personal cosmetic applications, including cosmetic and dermatological applications on the human body (i.e., skin). In some embodiments, the composition may be utilized as a skin care agent or makeup agent. In some other embodiments, the composition may be utilized as a cosmetic agent to treat or prevent skin conditions. In some embodiments, the composition may be utilized as a cleanser, exfoliant, or skin repair agent. In some embodiments, the composition may be utilized as makeup or a combination of skin care and makeup products.

[0056] The present applicants have unexpectedly and surprisingly achieved benefits in improving and treating the appearance of skin by using the compositions disclosed herein. Specifically, the applicants have surprisingly discovered that when cellulose nanofibers are present in the composition, enhanced delivery of active agents with negative log P is achieved, and that the delivery of active agents with positive log P is regulated and limited by the cellulose nanofibers in the composition. The applicants have also discovered significant benefits, including improved venous dilation, under-eye bags, dark circles under the eyes, puffiness around the eyes, fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, wrinkles, loss of firmness, loss of color or tone uniformity, rough texture, age spots, and reduced moisture content in the skin around the eyes, as well as improved facial skin firmness.

[0057] The compositions of the present invention may be utilized with other delivery modalities, including microneedles, iontophoresis, and / or electroporation. For example, in one embodiment, microneedles are applied to the skin, followed by the composition. All combinations and permutations of use are contemplated as part of the present invention.

[0058] In some embodiments, the composition may be formulated for use more than once, more than twice, more than three times, or more than four times a day.In a preferred embodiment, the composition may be formulated for use twice a day.In a more preferred embodiment, the composition may be formulated for use in the morning and before going to bed at night.

[0059] Specifically, the compositions disclosed herein may be used to prevent or treat changes to the skin such as dilated veins, bags under the eyes, dark circles under the eyes and puffiness around the eyes, fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, wrinkles, loss of firmness, loss of uniformity of color or tone, rough texture, age spots, and loss of moisture content in the skin. In particular, the present invention relates to methods for repairing or reducing dilated veins, bags under the eyes, dark circles under the eyes, puffiness around the eyes, fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, wrinkles, loss of firmness, tightness, hardening, loss of uniformity of color or tone, rough texture, age spots, and loss of moisture content in the skin around the eyes.

[0060] In a further embodiment, the subject exhibits or is suspected of having symptoms related to the visual appearance, physical properties, or physiological function of the skin, such as visually undesirable skin appearances, including dilated veins, under-eye bags, dark circles under the eyes, and puffiness around the eyes. Environmental damage to the skin may result in fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, wrinkles, loss of firmness, loss of uniformity in color or tone, rough texture, age spots, and decreased moisture content. Topical application of the composition can treat or prevent such skin conditions. The effectiveness of the composition can be compared to skin that has not been treated or addressed with the composition of the present invention.

[0061] In certain non-limiting embodiments, the skin treatment can be localized to and / or around the area where the composition is applied to the skin (such as the eyes). The skin can be skin on the face, torso, back, neck, ears, pelvic region, arms, hands, legs (e.g., ankles, knees, thighs), feet, or buttocks. Non-limiting examples of skin conditions that can be treated or prevented with the compositions of the present invention include telangiectasia (i.e., spider veins), dark circles (e.g., under-eye bags), puffy eyes, pruritus, pigmentation, age spots, senile purpura, keratosis, melasma, age spots, wrinkles, fine lines, facial skin tightness, skin lightening, nodules, sun-damaged skin, acne, or hyperpigmentation. In certain embodiments, the compositions may be used to treat / prevent wrinkles, sagging, dry, aging, and / or photodamaged skin, which may be caused by UV exposure, aging, radiation, chronic sun exposure, environmental pollutants, air pollution, wind, cold, heat, chemicals, or disease pathologies; enhance, maintain, or improve skin collagen levels; enhance, maintain, or improve skin decorin, collagen, and elastin levels; improve skin texture, smoothness, or firmness; and soothe irritated, red, or sensitive skin. The skin to be treated may be aged, malnourished, or environmentally damaged. In certain embodiments, the compositions may be applied topically in an amount effective to increase the rate of stratum corneum turnover, collagen synthesis, and fat production in the skin, firmness, or elasticity of the skin. In other embodiments, the compositions may be applied topically in an amount effective to reduce or inhibit the formation of new capillaries in or near the skin, blood flow to the skin, fluid volume in or near the skin, or melanin production in the skin.

[0062] In some exemplary embodiments, the present invention relates to a composition comprising nanocellulose and an active agent or ingredient.

[0063] Also disclosed are systems or kits that can include the compositions of the invention.

[0064] In certain non-limiting embodiments, the composition is contained within a container. The container can be a bottle, a dispenser, a package, etc. The container can be configured to dispense a predetermined amount of the composition. The container can be configured to dispense the composition in liquid, spray, emulsion, or aerosol form. In certain embodiments, the system or kit can include indicia on its surface and / or instructions for use of the composition.

[0065] In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition can be used as part of a regimen for treating a skin condition. For example, the regimen can include applying the composition of the present invention in a first instance, as disclosed throughout this specification. This regimen can then include additional applications that are the same, similar, or different from the first instance. Additional applications can include, for example, a second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth, or more applications of the composition of the present invention, and / or the presence or absence of another method for treating a particular skin condition (e.g., other compositions, etc.). The regimen can also include applying the composition in the morning and / or at night before going to bed.

[0066] Active ingredient and form According to one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition may contain one or more of the following, but is not limited to, DNA repair enzymes, sunscreen actives, moisturizers, botanical extracts, peptides, oils, thickeners, surfactants, vitamins, antioxidants, preservatives, or carriers. If present, suggested ranges are about 0.0001-35%, preferably about 0.0005-20%, and more preferably about 0.001-15% of the total weight of the composition. The carrier(s) present in the composition are dermatologically or cosmetically acceptable.

[0067] In some embodiments, the composition is a liquid composition. The composition can be formulated as a cosmetic product in a cosmetic carrier as an emulsion, cream, lotion, gel, serum, solution, base, or foam.

[0068] According to one embodiment, a formulation containing a cosmetic agent may be applied to mammalian keratinous tissue, or to human skin, face, or hair. The formulation containing a cosmetic agent may be in a variety of forms. For example, some non-limiting examples of such forms include solutions, suspensions, lotions, creams, gels, emulsions, suspensions, toners, ointments, cleansers, exfoliants, liquid shampoos and hair conditioners, pastes, foams, powders, mousses, shaving creams, hydrogels, film-forming products, face and skin masks, and the like.

[0069] The formulation type of the cosmetic agent of the present invention may be any type including a solution system, a soluble system, an emulsion system, a gel system, a powder dispersion system, or a water-oil two-phase system.

[0070] The composition may be in the form of an aqueous solution, gel, cream, lotion, emulsion, serum, spray, suspension, or emulsion. The emulsion may be either water-in-oil or oil-in-water. The composition may also be anhydrous. The composition may be in liquid, semi-solid, or solid form.

[0071] When the composition is present as an aqueous solution or dispersion, the amount of water present may range from about 0.01 to 99% by weight of the total composition, and the amount of dissolved or dispersed solids may range from about 10 to 99.99%. When the composition of the present invention is in emulsion form, it may contain about 0.1 to 99% water and about 0.1 to 80% oil by weight of the total composition. When the composition of the present invention is in anhydrous form, it may contain about 0.1 to 99% oil.

[0072] In one embodiment, negative log P skin care actives comprise a charge / value in the range of -0.01 to about -100. In another embodiment, positive log P skin care actives comprise a log P value in the range of about 0.01 to about 100. In a preferred embodiment, negative log P skin care actives comprise a charge / value in the range of -0.01 to about -10, and positive log P skin care actives comprise a log P value in the range of about 0.01 to about 10. In embodiments, compositions can be formulated to have skin care actives with a log P of about -0.01, -0.05, -0.1, -0.7, -1, -2, -5, -10, -2-0.1, 0.5, 1, 2, 3, 5, 10, or more, or any range or integer derivable therein.

[0073] Conventional cosmetic adjuvants that may be suitable as additives include, for example, co-emulsifiers, lipids and waxes, stabilizers, thickeners, bioactive agents, film-forming agents, fragrances, dyes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, pigments, electrolytes (e.g., magnesium sulfate), and pH adjusters. The co-emulsifier is preferably a known W / O emulsifier, such as polyglycerol esters, sorbitan esters, or partially esterified glycerides, and even an O / W emulsifier. Typical examples of lipids are glycerides, and waxes that may be mentioned in combination with hydrophilized ones, such as beeswax, paraffin wax, or microcrystalline wax. Metal salts of fatty acids, such as magnesium stearate, aluminum, and / or zinc, may be used. Suitable thickeners include cross-linked polyacrylic acid and its derivatives, polysaccharides, more specifically xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar, alginate and tylose, carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, as well as fatty alcohols, monoglycerides and fatty acids, polyacrylates, polyvinyl alcohol, and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Conventional film-forming agents include hydrocolloids, such as chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, or quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, acrylic acid-based polymers, quaternary cellulose derivatives, and similar compounds. Suitable preservatives include formaldehyde solution, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, or sorbic acid. Pearlizing agents, such as ethylene glycol distearate, include coldistearate, but also include fatty acids and fatty acids. Suitable dyes and approved substances for cosmetic purposes can be used. Such dyes are typically used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture.

[0074] Thus, the compositions of the present invention may be in liquid, paste, or solid form, for example as water-in-oil creams, oil-in-water creams and lotions, aerosol foam creams, gels, oils, grease pencils, dusting powders, sprays, or hydroalcoholic lotions. The compositions may include any active ingredient or cosmetic agent together with a cosmetically acceptable excipient or carrier.

[0075] DNA repair enzymes The composition may also contain one or more DNA repair enzymes, which may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.00001 to about 35%, preferably from about 0.00005 to about 30%, and more preferably from about 0.0001 to about 25%, of the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The DNA repair enzymes disclosed in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,077,211, 5,190,762, 5,272,079, and 5,296,231 are suitable for use in the compositions and methods described herein. One example of such a DNA repair enzyme can be purchased from AGI / Dermatics under the trade name Roxisomes®, which has the INCI name Arabidopsis Thaliana extract. It may be present alone or in a mixture with lecithin and water. This DNA repair enzyme is known to be effective in repairing 8-oxo-diguanine base mutation lesions.

[0077] Another type of DNA repair enzyme that can be used is one known to be effective in repairing 6-methylguanine base mutation lesions, sold by AGI / Dermatics under the trade name Adasomes® and having the INCI name Lactobacillus ferment broth, which can be added to the compositions of the present invention either by itself or mixed with lecithin and water.

[0078] Another type of DNA repair enzyme that can be used is one known to be effective in repairing TT dimers. The enzyme is present in a mixture of biological or plant materials. Examples of such ingredients are sold by AGI / Dermatics under the trade names Ultrasomes® or Photosomes®. Ultrasomes® contains a mixture of micrococcal lysate (the end product of the controlled lysis of various species of micrococcus), lecithin, and water. Photosomes® contains a mixture of plankton extract (which is an extract of marine biomass containing one or more of the following organisms: thalassoplankton, green microalgae, diatoms, blue-green algae, and nitrogen-fixing seaweeds), water, and lecithin.

[0079] Another type of DNA repair enzyme may be a component of various inactivated bacterial lysates, such as bifidobacterial lysate or bifidobacterial fermentation lysate, which is a lysate from bifidobacteria that contains metabolic products and cytoplasmic fractions when bifidobacteria are cultured, inactivated, and then digested. This material has the INCI name bifidobacterial fermentation lysate.

[0080] formulation The composition may be in the form of an aqueous solution, gel, cream, lotion, emulsion, serum, spray, suspension, or emulsion. The emulsion may be either water-in-oil or oil-in-water. The composition may also be anhydrous. The composition may be in liquid, semi-solid, or solid form.

[0081] When the composition is present as an aqueous solution or dispersion, the amount of water present may range from about 0.01 to 99% and the amount of dissolved or dispersed solids may range from about 10 to 99.99% by total weight of the composition.

[0082] When the composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion, it may contain about 0.1 to 99% water and about 0.1 to 80% oil by total weight of the composition.

[0083] When the compositions of the present invention are in anhydrous form, they may contain from about 0.1 to 99% oil by total weight of the composition.

[0084] sunscreen The compositions of the present invention may include one or more sunscreen actives or sunscreen agents. Examples of suitable sunscreen actives include oil-soluble sunscreens, insoluble sunscreens, and water-soluble sunscreens. Non-limiting examples of suitable oil-soluble sunscreens are disclosed in The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association's The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th Ed., Gottschalck, T.E. and McEwen, Jr., Eds. (2004), p. 2267 and pp. 2292-93, and include benzophenone-3, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoyl-methane, diethylaminohydroxy-benzoylhexyl benzoate, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl methoxy-cinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, homosalate, polysilicone-15, and derivatives and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of suitable insoluble sunscreens include methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide cerium, zinc oxide, and derivatives and mixtures thereof.Non-limiting examples of suitable water-soluble sunscreens include phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA), terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid (Mexoryl™ Sx), benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid, cinnamidopropyl-trimonium chloride, methoxycinnamidopropylethyldimonium chloride ether, bisethylphenyltriaminotriazine stilbene disulfonate disodium, distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate disodium, phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate disodium, methoxycinnamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, methoxycinnamidopropyl laurdimonium tosylate, PEG-25 PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), polyquaternium-59, TEA-salicylate, and salts, derivatives, and mixtures thereof. All known sunscreen actives are considered within the scope of the present invention.

[0085] moisturizer The composition may contain one or more humectants. When present, the humectant may range from about 0.1 to 75%, preferably from about 0.5 to 70%, more preferably from about 0.5 to 40% of the total weight of the composition. Examples of suitable humectants include, but are not limited to, glycols, sugars, and the like. Suitable glycols include polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols, such as PEG 4-10, which are polyethylene glycols in monomeric or polymeric form and have 4 to 10 repeating ethylene oxide units, and C 1~6 Alkylene glycols include, for example, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, etc. Suitable sugars are also suitable moisturizers, and some of these sugars are also polyhydric alcohols. Examples of such sugars include glucose, fructose, honey, hydrogenated honey, inositol, maltose, mannitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, xylose, etc. Urea is also suitable. Preferably, the moisturizer used in the composition of the present invention is C1~6 , preferably C 2~4 Alkylene glycols, most particularly butylene glycol, glycerin, propylene glycol, or hexylene glycol.

[0086] plant extract It may be desirable to incorporate one or more plant extracts into the composition. If present, suggested ranges are about 0.0001-20%, preferably about 0.0005-15%, more preferably about 0.001-10% of the total weight of the composition. Suitable plant extracts include extracts from plants (herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, seeds), such as flowers, fruits, and vegetables, for example, yeast fermented extract, Padina Pavonica extract, Thermus Thermophilis fermented extract, Camelina Sativa seed oil, Boswellia Serrata extract, olive extract, Acacia Dealbata extract, Silver Maple extract, and others. Saccharinum (sugar maple), Acidopholus, Acorus, Aesculus, Agaricus, Agave, Agrimonia, algae, aloe, citrus fruits, Brassica, cinnamon, orange, apple, blueberry, cranberry, peach, pear, lemon, lime, pea, seaweed, caffeine, green tea, chamomile, willowbark, mulberry, poppy, and those listed on pages 1646-1660 of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Eighth Edition, Volume 2. Further examples include, but are not limited to, Glycyrrhiza Glabra, Salix Nigra, Macrocycstis Pyrifera, Pyrus Malus, Saxifraga Sarmentosa, Vitis Vinifera, Morus Nigra, Scutellaria Baicalensis, Anthemis Nobilis, Clary Sage, Prunus Amygdalus, and Rosemary.Officianalis, Soapberry (Sapindus makurossi), Caesalpinia spinosa, Lemon (Citrus Medica Limonum), Ginseng (Panax Ginseng), Horsetail (Siegesbeckia Orientalis), Mango (Mangifera Indicia), Plum (Fructus Mume), Guava (Psidium Guajava), Ascophyllum nodosum, Centaurium erythrea, Glycine Soja (Glycine Soja) Extract, Sugar Beet (Beta Vulgaris), Soybean (Haberlea Rhodopensis), Japanese Knotweed (Polygonum Cuspidatum), Orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis), European Grape (Vitis Vinifera, Selaginella Tamariscina, Hops (Humulus Lupulus), Ponkan (Citrus Reticulata) peel, Pomegranate (Punica Granatum), Asparagopsis, Turmeric (Curcuma Longa), Menyanthes Trifoliata, Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus), Barley (Hordeum Vulgare), Cucumber (Cucumis Sativus), Hornwort (Evernia Prunastri), Evernia Furfuracea, Kola Acuminata, Glycyrrhetinic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] peptide It may be desirable to incorporate one or more peptides into the composition. The term "peptide" refers to a biomolecule having about 2 to 20 amino acids connected by peptide bonds. The preferred range of peptides present in the composition is about 0.001 to 20%, preferably about 0.005 to 15%, and more preferably about 0.01 to 10% of the total weight of the composition. Biologically active peptides are preferred, including those listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Eleventh Edition, 2006, page 2712. Such peptides include those with the CTFA names: acetyl hexapeptide-1, 7, or 8; acetyl pentapeptide-1, 2, 3, or 5; acetyl tripeptide-1; acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester; acetyl glutamyl heptapeptide-3; acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-6; acetyl monofluoropeptide-1; heptapeptide-1, 2, or 3; hexapeptide-1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, or 14; manganese tripeptide-1; myristoyl hexapeptide-5, 12, or 13; myristoyl nonapeptide-2; myristoyl pentaerythritol; Examples of suitable peptides include, but are not limited to, hexapeptide-4; myristoyl tetrapeptide-4 or 6; myristoyl tripeptide-4; nisin, nonapeptide-1 or 2; oligopeptide-1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10; palmitoyl hexapeptide-14; palmitoyl pentapeptide-4; palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 or 5; palmitoyl tripeptide-1 or 5; pentapeptide-1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6; tetrapeptide-1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7; tripeptide-1, 2, 3, 4, or 5; or palmitoyl oligopeptide. All peptides with cosmetic or dermatological applications are considered within the scope of the present invention.

[0088] In one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises acetyl hexapeptide-8, which has the trade name Argireline®.

[0089] oil The composition may also contain one or more oils in the form of natural oils, synthetic oils, or silicone oils. The term "oil" refers to ingredients that are pourable at room temperature, e.g., 25°C. The oil may be volatile or non-volatile. The term "volatile" means that the oil has a vapor pressure of greater than about 2 mm of mercury at 20°C. The term "non-volatile" means that the oil has a vapor pressure of less than about 2 mm of mercury at 20°C. If present, the suggested range is about 0.1-60%, preferably about 0.5-45%, of the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Examples of volatile oils include volatile linear, cyclic, or branched silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane (2 cst), hexamethyldisiloxane (0.65 cst, centistokes), octamethyltrisiloxane (1.0 cst), decamethyltetrasiloxane (1.5 cst), or dodecamethylpentasiloxane (2.0 cst), or branched volatile silicones such as methyltrimethicone (1.5 cst).Volatile paraffinic hydrocarbons such as isododecane, isohexadecane, C11-14 alkanes, and mixtures thereof are also suitable.

[0091] Examples of non-volatile oils include linear silicones commonly known as dimethicones, and phenyl-substituted silicones such as phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, perfluorodimethicone, and phenethyl dimethicone.

[0092] Non-volatile oils may also include esters or hydrocarbons. Esters include C1-10 alkyl esters of C1-20 carboxylic acids. One preferred type of ester is a straight-chain or branched-chain saturated or unsaturated C1-22 alkyl fatty acid (C6-22) ester. Examples include esters with low viscosity, for example, in the range of 10 to 100 cst at room temperature. Examples of such esters include, but are not limited to, jojoba esters. Other non-volatile oils include sterols, such as phytosterols, phytosphingosine, and similar plant sterols.

[0093] thickener Suitable thickening agents may be incorporated into the composition, and may be present in the range of about 0.0001 to 45%, preferably about 0.0005 to 40%, of the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Examples of thickeners include animal, vegetable, mineral, silicone, or synthetic waxes that may have melting points in the range of about 30-150°C, including waxes produced by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, such as polyethylene or synthetic waxes, or various vegetable waxes, such as bayberry, candelilla, ozokerite, acacia, beeswax, ceresin, cetyl esters, flower wax, citrus wax, carnauba wax, jojoba wax, Japan wax, polyethylene, microcrystalline wax, rice bran, lanolin wax, mink, montan, yama Examples of suitable waxes include, but are not limited to, peach, ourica, ozokerite, palm kernel wax, paraffin, avocado wax, apple wax, shellac wax, salvia wax, barley malt hull wax, grape wax, and polyalkylene glycol derivatives thereof, such as PEG 6-20 beeswax or PEG-12 carnauba wax; or fatty acids or fatty alcohols, including their esters, such as, but not limited to, hydroxystearic acid (e.g., 12-hydroxystearic acid), tristearin, tribehenin, and the like.

[0095] Suitable thickening agents may also be utilized in the compositions, such as silica, silicates, silica silylate, and their alkali metal or alkaline earth metal derivatives. These silicas and silicates are generally found in particulate form and may include silica, silica silylate, magnesium aluminum silicate, and the like.

[0096] Silicone elastomers can also be used as thickeners. Examples of such elastomers include those formed by addition reaction curing, in the presence of a platinum metal catalyst, by reacting a SiH-containing diorganosiloxane with an organopolysiloxane having terminal olefinic unsaturation or an α-ω diene hydrocarbon. These elastomers can also be formed by other reaction methods, such as condensation curing an organopolysiloxane composition through a dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane or an α-ω diene in the presence of an organotin compound, or by condensation curing an organopolysiloxane composition using a condensation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organosiloxane in the presence of an organotin compound or a titanate ester, or by peroxide curing an organopolysiloxane composition that is thermally cured in the presence of an organic peroxide catalyst.

[0097] One potentially suitable elastomer can be prepared by addition reaction curing of an organopolysiloxane or α-ω diene having at least two lower alkenyl groups in each molecule, an organopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule, and a platinum-type catalyst. The lower alkenyl groups, such as vinyl, can be present at any position in the molecule, although terminal olefinic unsaturation at one or both ends of the molecule is preferred. The molecular structure of this component can be linear, branched, cyclic, or network. These organopolysiloxanes include methylvinylsiloxane, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymer, decadiene, octadiene, heptadiene, hexadiene, pentadiene, or tetradiene, or tridiene.

[0098] Curing proceeds by the addition reaction of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in the dimethylmethylhydrogensiloxane with the siloxane or alpha-omega diene under catalysis using the catalysts described herein. To form a highly crosslinked structure, the methylhydrogensiloxane must contain at least two silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule to optimize its function as a crosslinker.

[0099] Catalysts used in the addition reaction of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms and alkenyl groups include, specifically, chloroplatinic acid (possibly dissolved in an alcohol or ketone and the solution optionally aged), chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on a carrier.

[0100] The example of silicone elastomer suitable for use in the composition of the present invention can be in powder form, or can be dispersed or solubilized in a solvent such as volatile or non-volatile silicone or a silicone compatible vehicle such as paraffinic hydrocarbon or ester.Examples of silicone elastomer powder include vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymers such as Shin-Etsu KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105, fluoroalkyl group-containing hybrid silicone powder such as Shin-Etsu KSP-200, which is a fluorosilicone elastomer, and phenyl group-containing hybrid silicone powder such as Shin-Etsu KSP-300, which is a phenyl-substituted silicone elastomer, and Dow Corning DC9506. Examples of silicone elastomer powders dispersed in silicone-compatible vehicles include dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by various suppliers, including those under the trade names 9040 or 9041 from Dow Corning Corporation, SFE839 from GE Silicones, or KSG-15, 16, and 18 from Shin-Etsu Silicones. KSG-15 has the CTFA name Cyclopentasiloxane / Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. KSG-18 has the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone / Dimethicone / Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Silicone elastomers can also be purchased from Grant Industries under the trade name Gransil. Also suitable are silicone elastomers with long chain alkyl substitution, such as lauryl dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by Shin Etsu under the trade names KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KSG-44.Crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the present invention, and processes for making them, are further described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,970,252 to Sakuta et al., issued Nov. 13, 1990; U.S. Pat. No. 5,760,116 to Kilgour et al., issued Jun. 2, 1998; U.S. Pat. No. 5,654,362 to Schulz, Jr. et al., issued Aug. 5, 1997; and Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 61-18708, assigned to Pola Kasei Kogyo KK.

[0101] Polysaccharides may be suitable aqueous phase thickeners, including naturally occurring materials such as agar, agarose, Alcaligenes polysaccharides, algin, alginic acid, acacia gum, amylopectin, chitin, dextran, cassia gum, cellulose gum, gelatin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid, hydroxyethyl cellulose, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, pectin, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pectin, trehalose, and gelatin.

[0102] Also suitable are different types of synthetic polymer thickeners. One type includes acrylic polymer thickeners composed of monomers A and B, where A is selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof, and B is selected from the group consisting of C1-22 alkyl acrylates, C1-22 alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof. Acrylic polymer solutions include those sold by Seppic, Inc. under the trade name Sepigel® or Aristoflex®.

[0103] Also suitable are acrylic polymer thickeners that are copolymers of A, B, and C monomers, where A and B are as defined above and C is represented by the general formula:

[0104] [ka] wherein Z is —(CH) m m is 1 to 10, n is 2 to 3, o is 2 to 200, and R is C 10~30 It is a straight-chain or branched alkyl. An example of the secondary thickener mentioned above is a copolymer in which A and B are defined as above, C is CO, and n, o, and R are as defined above. An example of such a secondary thickener is the acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer sold by Rohm & Haas under the trade name Acrysol ICS-1.

[0105] Also suitable are acrylate-based anionic amphiphilic polymers containing at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unit containing a fatty chain, wherein the hydrophilic unit contains an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more specifically a vinyl carboxylic acid such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or a mixture thereof, and the allyl ether unit containing a fatty chain is represented by the formula: CH2=CR'CH2OB n R where R' represents H or CH3, B represents an ethyleneoxy radical, n is 0 or an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R represents a hydrocarbon radical selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, and cycloalkyl radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and even more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. In this case, it is more preferred that R' represents H, n is equal to 10, and R represents a stearyl (C18) radical. Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type have been described and prepared in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,677,152 and 4,702,844. Among these anionic amphiphilic polymers are polymers formed from 20-60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5-60% by weight of lower alkyl methacrylate, 2-50% by weight of the above-mentioned fatty chain-containing allyl ethers, and 0-1% by weight of a crosslinker which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene bisacrylamide. One commercially available example of such a polymer is a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and polyethylene glycol (having 10 EO units) ether of stearyl alcohol or steareth-10, in particular those sold by Allied Colloids under the names SALCARE SC80 and SALCARE SC90, which are aqueous emulsions containing 30% crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0106] Also suitable are acrylate copolymers such as Polyacrylate-3, which is a copolymer of methacrylic acid, methyl methacrylate, methylstyrene isopropyl isocyanate, and PEG-40 behenate monomers; Polyacrylate-10, which is a copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium acrylate, acrylamide, and vinylpyrrolidone monomers; or Polyacrylate-11, which is a copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethylacryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium acrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate, lauryl acrylate, butyl acrylate, and acrylamide monomers.

[0107] Also suitable are crosslinked acrylate-based polymers in which one or more of the acryl groups may have a substituted long-chain alkyl (6-40, 10-30, etc.) group, such as acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, which are copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylate with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their simple esters, crosslinked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol. Such polymers are commonly sold under the trade names Carbopol or Pemulen and have the CTFA name Carbomer.

[0108] One particularly suitable type of aqueous phase thickener is an acrylate-based polymer thickener sold by Clariant under the Aristoflex trademark, such as Aristoflex AVC, an ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer; Aristoflex AVL, the same polymer found in AVC dispersed in a mixture containing caprylic / capric triglyceride, trilaureth-4, and polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate; or Aristoflex HMB, an ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

[0109] Also suitable as thickening agents are various polyethylene glycol (PEG) derivatives with degrees of polymerization ranging from 1,000 to 200,000. Such components are designated by "PEG" followed by the degree of polymerization in thousands, e.g., PEG-45M, which refers to a PEG having 45,000 repeating ethylene oxide units. Examples of suitable PEG derivatives include PEG 2M, 5M, 7M, 9M, 14M, 20M, 23M, 25M, 45M, 65M, 90M, 115M, 160M, and 180M.

[0110] Also suitable are polyglycerols, which are repeating glycerol moieties with the number of repeating moieties ranging from 15 to 200, preferably from about 20 to 100. Examples of suitable polyglycerols include those with CTFA names such as polyglycerol-20, polyglycerol-40, etc.

[0111] surfactants The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more surfactants. This is particularly desirable when the composition is in the form of an aqueous gel or emulsion. When present, the surfactant may range from about 0.001 to 50%, preferably from about 0.005 to 40%, and more preferably from about 0.01 to 35% by weight of the total composition. Suitable surfactants may be silicone or organic, nonionic, anionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic. Such surfactants include, but are not limited to, those described herein and are well known in the art.

[0112] Vitamins and Antioxidants The compositions of the present invention may contain vitamins and / or coenzymes, as well as antioxidants. The compositions may contain vitamins and / or coenzymes in an amount ranging from about 0.001 to 10%, preferably 0.01 to 8%, and more preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight of the total composition. Suitable vitamins include ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as ascorbyl palmitate, tetrahexydecyl ascorbic acid, and B vitamins such as thiamine, riboflavin, and pyridoxine, as well as coenzymes such as thiamine pyrophosphate, flavin adenine dinucleotide, folic acid, pyridoxal phosphate, and tetrahydrofolic acid. Vitamin A and its derivatives are also suitable. Examples include vitamin A in the form of retinyl palmitate, retinol, retinoic acid, and beta-carotene. Vitamin E and its derivatives, such as vitamin E acetate, nicotinate, or other esters, are also suitable. Vitamins D and K are also suitable.

[0113] Suitable antioxidants are ingredients that help prevent or delay spoilage. Examples of antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include potassium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium erythrobate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, propyl gallate, cysteine ​​hydrochloride, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, and the like.

[0114] preservatives The composition may contain 0.001 to 8%, preferably 0.01 to 6%, more preferably 0.05 to 5% of preservatives by weight of the total composition: benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, benzyl hemiformal, benzylparaben, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, propylparaben, diazolidinyl urea, calcium benzoate, calcium propionate, caprylyl glycol, biguanide derivatives, phenoxyethanol, captan, chlorhexidine diacetate. Various preservatives are suitable, including chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride, chloroacetamide, chlorobutanol, p-chloro-m-cresol, chlorophene, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, m-cresol, o-cresol, DEDM hydantoin, DEDM hydantoin dilaurate, dehydroacetic acid, diazolidinyl urea, dibromopropamidine diisethionate, DMDM ​​hydantoin, etc. In one preferred embodiment, the composition is paraben-free.

[0115] particulate material The compositions of the present invention may contain particulate materials in the form of pigments, inert particles, or mixtures thereof. Such particulate materials may be present in the range of about 0.01 to 75%, preferably about 0.5 to 70%, and more preferably about 0.1 to 65% by weight of the total composition. When the composition may contain a mixture of pigments and powders, suitable ranges include about 0.01 to 75% pigment and 0.1 to 75% powder by weight based on the weight of the total composition.

[0116] A. Powder The particulate matter may be a colored or colorless (eg, white) non-colored powder. Suitable non-coloring powders include bismuth oxychloride, titanated mica, fumed silica, spherical silica, polymethyl methacrylate, micronized Teflon, boron nitride, acrylate copolymer, aluminum silicate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, bentonite, calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc rosinate, alumina, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, silica silylate, silk powder, sericite, soybean flour, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder, or mixtures thereof. The powders may be surface treated with lecithin, amino acids, mineral oil, silicones, or a variety of other agents, either alone or in combination, to coat the powder surface and render the particles more lipophilic in nature.

[0117] B. Pigments The particulate material may include various organic and / or inorganic pigments. Organic pigments include various aromatic types, including azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthroquinone, and xanthine dyes, commonly designated D&C and FD&C blue, brown, green, orange, red, and yellow. Organic pigments generally consist of insoluble metal salts of certified color additives known as Lakes. Inorganic pigments include iron oxide, ultramarine, chromium, chromium hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof. Iron oxides of red, blue, yellow, brown, black, and mixtures thereof are preferred.

[0118] Carrier The composition includes a dermatologically or cosmetically acceptable carrier for the skin care active. As used herein, "dermatologically / cosmetically acceptable" means that the described composition or components are suitable for use in contact with human keratinous tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic reaction, etc. The composition may comprise from about 50% to about 99.99%, alternatively from about 60% to about 99.9%, alternatively from about 70% to about 98%, alternatively from about 80% to about 95% of the composition by total weight.

[0119] Carriers can be of a wide variety of types, non-limiting examples of which include solutions, dispersions, emulsions, and combinations thereof. "Emulsions" generally contain an aqueous phase and an oil phase. The oil may be derived from animals, plants, or petroleum, may be natural or synthetic, and may include silicone oils. Emulsion carriers include, but are not limited to, oil-in-water, water-in-oil, and water-in-oil-in-water emulsions. In one embodiment, the carrier comprises an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a silicone-in-water emulsion, and / or a water-in-silicone emulsion. The emulsion may contain from about 0.01% to about 10%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 5%, of a nonionic, anionic, or cationic emulsifier, and combinations thereof. Suitable emulsifiers are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 3,755,560, U.S. Pat. No. 4,421,769, and McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition, pages 317-324 (1986).

[0120] The present invention will now be further described in connection with the following examples, which are given for purposes of illustration only.

[0121] Examples and Experiments The delivery efficacy of active substances with different hydrophilicities in formulations with and without nanocellulose was investigated. Specifically, the delivery efficacy of caffeine and ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G) from formulations containing nanocellulose was analyzed.

[0122] Test formulations were prepared with and without nanocellulose and various skin care actives and are shown in Table 2.

[0123] [Table 2]

[0124] The formulation was prepared by mixing the Phase I ingredients until all solids were dissolved (e.g., about 10-15 minutes). The Phase 2 ingredients were added to the Phase 1 ingredients and mixed until lump-free (e.g., about 10 minutes). The Phase 3 ingredients were premixed until lump-free, slowly added to the initial mixture, and mixed until uniform (e.g., about 30 minutes). The Phase 4 ingredients were premixed until uniform, slowly added to the initial mixture, and mixed until uniform (e.g., about 15-20 minutes). The Phase 5 ingredients were premixed and then added to the mixture and mixed until uniform (e.g., about 15-20 minutes). The Phase 6 ingredients were added to the mixture under a Silverson mixer, the pH was adjusted to about 5.5-6.5 to increase the stability of the AA2G, and mixed until lump-free (e.g., about 15-20 minutes).

[0125] Permeation studies were then performed using the base formulation without nanocellulose as a control. The permeation effects of caffeine (an active with a positive p log) and AA2G (an active with a negative p log) were then compared.

[0126] Permeation studies using MatTek Skin. In a 6-well plate, MatTek300 skin (a skin model constructed from live cells obtained from MatTek) was placed in a well with 2.00 mL of incubation medium (also provided by MatTek). The medium was removed, and 2.0 mL of a 1:1 mixture of phosphate-buffered saline and propanediol (PBS / PPD) was added. The PBS / PPD mixture was then removed. This washing process was repeated twice. 2.0 mL of the PBS / PPD mixture was then added as a recovery phase. 400 μL of sample was loaded onto each skin. The skin was then incubated at 37° C. for 72 hours. Finally, the PBS / PPD recovery phase was filtered through a 0.45 μm PTFE syringe filter and placed into a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) vial.

[0127] UPLC research Samples collected from the permeation studies were analyzed using a Waters ACQUITY H ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC). The UPLC parameters are shown in Table 3 below.

[0128] [Table 3]

[0129] Example 1. Caffeine penetration mosquito Caffeine is a skin care active that can be dissolved in both water and hydrophobic solvents. The permeation effect of caffeine from the two formulations is shown in Figure 1. There was no significant difference in the permeation effect of caffeine between the formulation containing cellulose nanofibers and the formulation without cellulose nanofibers.

[0130] Example 2. Penetration of AA2G AA2G is a skin care active with a negative log P. AA2G can penetrate the skin barrier with relatively lower efficacy than caffeine. The permeation efficacy of AA2G in the two formulations is shown in Figure 2. The permeation efficacy of AA2G in the formulation containing cellulose nanofibers is 5 times higher than that of the control formulation without cellulose nanofibers.

[0131] The permeation effect of AA2G was significantly enhanced by adding cellulose nanofibers to the formulation, whereas the permeation effect of caffeine was not affected by the presence of cellulose nanofibers.

[0132] Example 3. Penetration of 1% (ww) phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol is an active substance with a positive log P. Experiments have shown that the penetration effect of 1% phenoxyethanol (weight / weight of the total composition according to the present invention) is not increased. When the composition according to the present invention is used, the penetration of phenoxyethanol into the skin is not increased compared to a composition without nanocellulose.

[0133] Example 4. Penetration of 4% (ww) Benzophenone in Sunscreen Formulations Benzophenone is an active substance with a positive log P. The penetration of benzophenone must be controlled, especially when used in sunscreen formulations. Experiments have shown that the penetration effect of 4% benzophenone (weight / total weight of the composition according to the present invention) is directionally reduced. When the composition according to the present invention is used, the penetration of benzophenone into the skin is directionally reduced compared to a composition without nanocellulose.

[0134] Example 5. Penetration of 0.3% retinol Retinol is also an active substance with a positive log P. The penetration of retinol must be controlled to adjust the release kinetics, since an increased amount of retinol in the skin can cause skin irritation. Experiments have shown that the penetration effect of 0.3% retinol (weight / weight of the total composition according to the present invention) is adjusted to achieve a slower release rate, thereby achieving slower penetration into the skin and avoiding skin irritation. Therefore, when the composition according to the present invention is used, the penetration of retinol into the skin is reduced compared to a composition without nanocellulose.

[0135] In summary, compositions containing nanocellulose modulated, reduced, and limited the permeation effects of actives with high log P, such as caffeine and UP302, as shown in the results herein, while significantly enhancing the permeation effects of actives with negative log P. Furthermore, this is consistent with previous studies, including experiments with AA2G.

[0136] The dimensions and values ​​disclosed herein should not be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values ​​recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean "approximately 40 mm."

[0137] When a range of values ​​is recited, it is understood that each intervening integer value and each fraction thereof between the recited upper and lower limits of that range is also specifically disclosed, along with each subrange between such values. The upper and lower limits of any range may independently be included or excluded within the range, and each range including either or both limits is also encompassed within the invention. When a recited value has inherent limits, such as when a component can be present in a concentration of 0-100%, or when the pH of an aqueous solution can range from 1-14, the inherent limits are specifically disclosed. When values ​​are explicitly recited, it is understood that values ​​that are approximately the same number or amount as the recited value are also within the scope of the invention, as are ranges based thereon. When a combination is disclosed, each subcombination of the elements of that combination is also specifically disclosed and is within the scope of the invention. In contrast, when different elements or groups of elements are disclosed, these combinations are also disclosed. When any element of the invention is disclosed as having multiple alternatives, embodiments of the invention in which each alternative is excluded, either alone or in any combination with the other alternatives, are also disclosed herein. More than one element of the invention may have such an exclusion, and all combinations of elements with such exclusions are disclosed herein.

[0138] All documents cited herein, including any cross-references or related patents or applications, are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art to any invention disclosed or claimed herein, or that it alone, or in any combination with any other reference(s), teaches, suggests, or discloses any such invention. Furthermore, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.

[0139] While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to include within the scope of this invention in the appended claims all such changes and modifications. The present invention includes, for example, the following aspects. [Section 1] 1. A topical delivery system comprising at least one skin care active and nanocellulose in a cosmetic composition, wherein the nanocellulose is present in an amount of about 0.001% to about 50% by total weight of the composition. [Section 2] Item 10. The delivery system of item 1, wherein the skin care active comprises a negative logP active or a positive logP active. [Section 3] 3. The delivery system of claim 2, wherein the negative log P actives include one or more of niacinamide, kojic acid, 3-o-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, zincidone (zinc salt of L-pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid), glucosamine, allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin, glyoxylic acid diureide), ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, aspartic acid, threonine, glycine, L-ornithine, alanine, lysine, histidine, cysteine, valine, methionine, tyrosine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, tryptophan, hyaluronic acid, or sodium hyaluronate; and the positive log P actives include one or more of caffeine, retinol, retinol derivatives, cholesterol, sterols, vitamin E and derivatives, benzophenones and chemical sunscreens, or salicylic acid. [Section 4] Item 1. The delivery system of item 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises one or more of a DNA repair enzyme, a sunscreen active, a moisturizer, a botanical extract, a peptide, an oil, a thickener, a surfactant, a vitamin, an antioxidant, a preservative, or a dermatologically acceptable carrier. [Section 5] Item 1, wherein the nanocellulose comprises at least one of cellulose nanofibers, cellulose nanocrystals, or bacterial nanocellulose. [Section 6] Item 1, wherein the nanocellulose comprises phosphated cellulose nanofibers. [Section 7] Item 1, wherein the nanocellulose comprises crystalline nanocellulose. [Section 8] 1. A method for modulating or improving the topical delivery of a skin care active into the skin, the method comprising topically applying to the skin a composition comprising the skin care active and nanocellulose. [Section 9] 9. The method of claim 8, wherein the skin care active comprises one or more of niacinamide, kojic acid, 3-o-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, zincidone (zinc salt of L-pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid), glucosamine, allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin, glyoxylic acid diureide), ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, aspartic acid, threonine, glycine, L-ornithine, alanine, lysine, histidine, cysteine, valine, methionine, tyrosine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, tryptophan, hyaluronic acid, or sodium hyaluronate. [Section 10] 9. The method of claim 8, wherein the skin care actives include one or more of caffeine, retinol or retinol derivatives, cholesterol, sterols, vitamin E and derivatives, benzophenones and chemical sunscreens, or salicylic acid. [Section 11] Item 9. The method of item 8, wherein the nanocellulose comprises at least one of cellulose nanofibers, cellulose nanocrystals, or bacterial nanocellulose. [Section 12] 1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one skin care active, nanocellulose, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier, wherein the nanocellulose is present in an amount of from about 0.001% to about 50% by total weight of the composition. [Section 13] Item 13. The composition of item 12, wherein the skin care active is a negative logP active or a positive logP active. [Section 14] Item 14. The composition of item 13, wherein the negative logP active agent comprises one or more of niacinamide, kojic acid, 3-o-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, zincidone (zinc salt of L-pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid), glucosamine, allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin, glyoxylic acid diureide), ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, aspartic acid, threonine, glycine, L-ornithine, alanine, lysine, histidine, cysteine, valine, methionine, tyrosine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, tryptophan, hyaluronic acid, or sodium hyaluronate. [Section 15] Item 13. The composition of claim 12, wherein the nanocellulose comprises at least one of cellulose nanofibers, cellulose nanocrystals, or bacterial nanocellulose. [Section 16] Item 13. The composition according to item 12, wherein the nanocellulose comprises phosphated cellulose nanofibers. [Section 17] 13. A method for treating the appearance of human skin, comprising administering to said skin an effective amount of the composition of claim 12. [Section 18] 18. The method of claim 17, wherein the treatment provides at least one cosmetic effect selected from the group consisting of treating / preventing wrinkles, sagging, dry, aging, and / or photodamaged skin, enhancing or maintaining collagen levels in the skin, enhancing or maintaining decorin levels in the skin, improving skin texture, smoothness, or firmness, and soothing irritated, red, or sensitive skin.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising at least one skin care active and nanocellulose, wherein the nanocellulose is present in an amount of 0.001% to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, the nanocellulose comprising phosphated cellulose nanofibers, and the skin care active comprising ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G).

2. 1. A composition for modulating or improving topical delivery of a skin care active into the skin, comprising the skin care active and nanocellulose, wherein the nanocellulose is present in an amount of 0.001% to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, the nanocellulose comprising phosphated cellulose nanofibers, and the skin care active comprising ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), and wherein the composition is to be applied topically to the skin.

3. 1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one skin care active, nanocellulose, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier, wherein the nanocellulose is present in an amount of 0.001% to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, the nanocellulose comprising phosphorylated cellulose nanofibers, and the skin care active comprising ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G).

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