A reverse emulsion comprising at least one fatty alcohol, a nonionic sugar ester, and ethylcellulose, and a method for using the same.

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a method for producing a cellulose acetate copolymer comprising the steps of: 10 ~C 26 at least one first non-volatile oil, liquid at 25° C., chosen from fatty alcohols, ethers of formula ROR′ or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR′, in which the R and R′ groups, whether identical or not, are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based groups containing at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C 16 The composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising at least one second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that is liquid at 25° C. and is selected from the group consisting of aryl, aryl- ... The present invention relates to a transparent or translucent composition in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising ethylcellulose in an amount ranging from 11% to 14% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, octyldodecanol in an amount ranging from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least dicaprylyl ether as second oil, optionally in combination with dicaprylyl carbonate or pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, a first oil / second oil in a weight ratio ranging from 50 / 50 to 70 / 30, a mixture of sucrose laurate and sucrose palmitate in an amount ranging from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, water and glycerol in an amount ranging from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, optionally at least one water-soluble solvent selected from saturated C1-C5 monoalcohols, water, polyol, optionally water-soluble solvent and surfactant in a content ranging from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one liposoluble or water-soluble dye. The invention finally relates to the methods for making up and / or caring for human keratinous materials using them.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a composition in the form of a reverse (water in oil) emulsion comprising ethyl cellulose, a first non-volatile oil selected from fatty alcohols, a second specific hydrocarbon oil, and at least one nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant selected from sugar esters and / or sorbitan esters. The present invention also subjects a method for applying the aforementioned composition to human keratin materials, particularly for makeup and / or care of the lips. [Background technology]

[0002] For several years, makeup compositions containing ethylcellulose have been developed, providing the first alternative to the presence of large amounts of ethanol used as a solvent for ethylcellulose, which in the long term could cause skin or lip sensitization problems. This is, for example, a solvent in which ethylcellulose no longer needs ethanol, but which exhibits certain solubility parameters, particularly fatty alcohols, natural oils, C6-C6 30 One of the desired objectives of the European Patent (Patent Document 1) was to describe anhydrous compositions that are soluble in a solvent selected from triglycerides or glycol esters. These compositions exhibit good adhesion and limited migration.

[0003] Compositions existing in emulsion form are subsequently described, for example, in the international application (Patent Document 2), which in particular concerns oil-in-water emulsions comprising ethylcellulose, at least one liquid fatty alcohol, and at least one non-volatile silicone oil or fluorinated oil. The compositions thus obtained are easy to apply, contribute to freshness during application, and the resulting deposits are non-sticky, do not migrate much, are glossy, and maintain their original state.

[0004] However, for some time, the trend in cosmetic products has instead been towards the development of compositions that contain more natural products and thus fewer synthetic compounds such as silicones or fluorinated compounds. Simply replacing these oils with hydrocarbon-based compounds such as ester oils does not achieve the desired goals, for example, gloss and long-lasting gloss over time (loss of gloss). Specifically, silicone oils are known to be very effective for these purposes. Furthermore, the above international application shows, as an example, that even when replacing silicone or fluorinated oils with triglycerides, a homogeneous composition cannot be obtained. In addition, the resulting composition has been found to be difficult to apply and unable to evenly makeup the lips.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0005]

Patent Document 1

Patent Document 2

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0006] Therefore, there is still a search for compositions in the form of emulsions containing ethyl cellulose that can be applied as shiny deposits that maintain gloss over time, especially for lip makeup, while restricting the use of silicone or fluorinated oils and actually not even using them. Although it is very clear, such results need to be achieved without impairing the application properties of the composition or the application properties of the resulting deposits, such as migration.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0007] These objects and other objects are - at least 8% by mass of ethyl cellulose relative to the mass of the composition, and -Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 10 ~C 26 A first non-volatile oil, selected from fatty alcohols, which is liquid at 25°C, - *Ethers of formula ROR' or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR' (wherein the formulas, whether identical or not, the R and R' groups are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon groups containing at least 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C) 16 (representing the base), *Hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, castor oil esters, *Optionally, a hydroxylated ester oil containing 1 to 4 ester functional groups, which is saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, linear or branched, with at least one of the chains containing at least 10 carbon atoms. *and mixtures thereof, 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶) selected from 5 At least one second hydrocarbon oil which is liquid at Pa, - At least one first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant selected from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, or mixtures thereof, -Optionally, at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil or one fluorinated oil, or a mixture thereof, in an amount of 4% by mass or less, more specifically 2% by mass or less, and preferably 1% by mass or less, relative to the mass of the composition, This is achieved by the present invention, which focuses on compositions in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion containing [the specified element].

[0008] The present invention also relates to a method for applying makeup and / or care for the lips, comprising applying the above-described composition.

[0009] Another subject of the present invention is a transparent or translucent composition provided in the form of a reverse emulsion, comprising: - At least 9% by mass, preferably at least 10% by mass, of ethylcellulose relative to the mass of the composition. - 25% to 55% by mass of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C, relative to the total mass of the composition. 10 ~C 26 At least one first non-volatile oil, selected from fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, which is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. - At least one second hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, isocetyl isostearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, or ethyl ester of castor oil. - A mixture of sucrose laurate and sucrose palmitate in an amount of 1.5% to 7% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. A first oil / second oil with a mass ratio that varies from -50 / 50 to 90 / 10, preferably from 50 / 50 to 80 / 20. - At least one liquid, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C8 polyol containing 2-6 hydroxyl groups, preferably glycerol, - A water and liquid polyol in a content that varies from 10% to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0010] The present invention also concerns a method for applying makeup and / or care to human keratin materials, particularly skin and lips, more specifically the lips, the method comprising applying the above-mentioned composition.

[0011] The composition according to the present invention is provided more specifically in the form of a gel that may be relatively slightly fluid. It is easy to apply as a thick deposit, is not very sticky or sticky at all, and remains comfortable on the lips, providing a fresh sensation. The resulting deposit is glossy, retains its gloss over time, is moisturizing, and gives the lips a voluminous (plumping) effect. It also exhibits sufficient non-migratory properties. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0012] Gloss measurement protocol The sample is spread across a contrast card (Erichsen type 24 / 5) with black and white areas, using an automated spreader (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) calibrated to a thickness of 100 μm (Elcometer 3520 / 101, 50, 100, 150, 200 μm, reference number K0003520M101), in order to obtain a film of controlled thickness.

[0013] The composition is spread across both the black and white areas. The black area of ​​the contrast card allows monitoring of the uniformity of the spread, while the white area of ​​the card is used to measure the gloss of the film.

[0014] Gloss measurements are performed using a BykGardner Mini Gloss Meter 60°, which is calibrated to 60° before measurement. To prevent damage to the film, adhesive rings (Crowns DTM, 22mm diameter, reference number G022363M) are placed at both ends of the gloss meter.

[0015] Glossiness is measured immediately after application at 20°C and 50% relative humidity, at T0, T30 minutes, T1 hour, T1 hour 30 minutes, and T24 hours.

[0016] Measurement protocol for the rheological properties of gels Various experiments were performed using a controlled stress rheometer (TA Instruments AR-G2). The measurement geometry used was a polished cone / plate with a diameter of 35 mm and an angle of 2°. A sinusoidal stress with an amplitude increasing at a frequency of 1 Hz was applied to the sample over a stress range of 0.1 to 1000 Pa. The resistance of the sample to the applied strain made it possible to obtain curves of viscosity G* and solid / liquid properties δ as a function of stress τ. The main data collected were plateau G* (viscosity) and phase angle δ (solid / liquid properties).

[0017] The composition is provided more specifically in the form of a gel, and its G* coefficient (viscoelastic coefficient) is 10 to 1000 Pa for a phase angle of 40 to 70°, more specifically 50 to 1000 Pa for a phase angle of 40 to 65°, preferably 40 to 60°, and actually even more specifically 80 to 1000 Pa. The viscoelastic properties (G* and δ) are measured using a controlled stress rheometer, and the values ​​are obtained at a viscoelastic plateau at 25°C.

[0018] Viscosity measurement protocol Viscosity is typically measured at 25°C using a Rheomat RM100 viscometer with a No. 4 spindle, after which the measurement is performed by rotating the spindle in the composition at a shear rate of 200 revolutions per minute (rpm) for 10 minutes.

[0019] Generally, the compositions according to the present invention exhibit a viscosity of 5 to 50 Pa.s, preferably 7 to 30 Pa.s.

[0020] Tack measurement protocol The composition is deposited into several stainless steel crucibles to a depth of 100 μm and flattened as quickly as possible. The crucibles are left to dry at ambient temperature for 1 hour.

[0021] The device used was a TA.XT2i texture analyzer. The clamp attached to the device gripped a 6mm diameter AU4G cylinder, and a smooth, beige tip made of synthetic skin of the same diameter and 2mm thickness was glued to its end.

[0022] The tip components are cleaned with ethanol between each measurement.

[0023] Multiple measurements are not taken at the same location within the sediment.

[0024] The parameters for the compression test with maintenance over time are as follows: approach speed (or pre-speed): 1 mm / sec, speed (starting from contact detection): 0.1 mm / sec, force (and corresponding pressure): 0.283 N (i.e., 0.01 MPa), maintenance time: 3 seconds, withdrawal speed (or post-speed): 0.1 mm / sec.

[0025] Tack is characterized by the amount of work done on delamination measured during discharge (tensile phase), which corresponds to the integral of the curve below the time axis. This work can be reliably expressed in joules per square meter.

[0026] As shown above, the compositions according to the present invention can be applied to human keratin materials, particularly skin or lips. Therefore, these are compositions that are suitable for application to physiologically acceptable media, i.e., skin and / or its surface body growth, exhibiting pleasant color, pleasant scent and pleasant feel, and containing media that do not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, pressure) that might cause consumers to refrain from using the composition.

[0027] Ethylcellulose As shown above, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one ethylcellulose.

[0028] Ethylcellulose is a cellulose ethyl ether containing a chain composed of β-anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit exhibits three substitutable hydroxyl groups, and all or some of these hydroxyl groups can react according to the following reaction: RONa + C2H5Cl → ROC2H5 + NaCl (where R represents a cellulose group). When all three hydroxyl groups are completely substituted, the degree of substitution of each anhydroglucose unit is 3, in other words, the content of alkoxy groups, particularly ethoxy groups, becomes 54.88%.

[0029] The ethylcellulose polymer used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably a polymer in which the degree of substitution of ethoxy groups is in the range of 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words, a polymer containing ethoxy groups in the range of 44% to 50%.

[0030] Preferably, the average molar mass of ethylcellulose is selected such that the viscosity of a 5% by mass solution in an 80 / 20 (toluene / ethanol) mixture at 25°C is 4 to 300 mPa.s, preferably in the range of 5 to 200 mPa.s, such as 5 to 150 mPa.s (Standard ASTM D 914).

[0031] The alkylcellulose used in the composition according to the present invention is more specifically in powder form.

[0032] This is, for example, sold by Dow Chemicals under the trademark name Ethocel Standard, particularly as Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those sold by Ashland Inc. under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose type K, type N, and type T, preferably type N (N7 or N100, etc.), are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0033] The ethylcellulose content corresponds more specifically to 8% to 17% by mass, preferably 8% to 15% by mass, and in practice to 9% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 10% to 12% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0034] aqueous phase The composition according to the present invention is in the form of an inverse (water in oil) emulsion, and therefore in the form of an emulsion containing a continuous oily phase, in which case the aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so that a macroscopically homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0035] water Therefore, the composition according to the present invention contains at least water.

[0036] More specifically, the water content is 40% by mass or less, more specifically 30% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the water content is 5% to 40% by mass, more preferably 5% to 30% by mass, and even more specifically 5% to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0037] Water-soluble solvent In addition to water, the composition according to the present invention can contain at least one water-soluble solvent.

[0038] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water exceeds 50% by mass at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa)).

[0039] The water-soluble solvent that can be used in the composition according to the present invention can be volatile in addition.

[0040] In particular, among the water-soluble solvents that can be used, more specifically saturated C1-C5 monoalcohols such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes, and mixtures thereof can be mentioned. Preferably, the water-soluble solvent is selected from monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0041] When the composition contains it / them, the content of the water-soluble solvent is more specifically 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0042] Liquid polyol The composition according to the present invention can optionally contain at least one polyol that is liquid at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa).

[0043] The term "polyol" refers to any organic molecule that contains at least two hydroxyl groups (or free hydroxyl groups).

[0044] More specifically, the liquid polyol is selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C2-C8, more specifically C3-C6 compounds containing at least two hydroxyl functional groups, preferably 2-6 hydroxyl groups.

[0045] Advantageously, the polyol can be selected from, for example, ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethylhexylglycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof, and more preferably glycerol.

[0047] Preferably, if the composition contains at least one liquid polyol as defined above, its content varies from 0.1% to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0048] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the amount of the aqueous phase corresponds to 5% to 40% by mass, particularly 10% to 30% by mass, preferably 20% to 30% by mass, relative to the mass of the composition. The term "aqueous phase" is explicitly stated to mean water, and optionally, a water-soluble solvent and a liquid polyol.

[0049] First oil As shown above, the composition according to the present invention includes a first non-volatile oil that is liquid at 25°C, and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 10~C 26 It contains fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols.

[0050] To have an advantage, C 10 ~C 26 The alcohols are preferably branched fatty alcohols if they contain at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0051] Preferably, the fatty alcohol contains 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0052] Specific examples of fatty alcohols that can be preferably used include, in particular, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] According to an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol.

[0054] More specifically, the content of the first oil varies from 20% to 60% by mass, more specifically from 20% to 40% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0055] Second oil The composition according to the present invention is suitable for use at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 The system further comprises at least one second hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at Pa.

[0056] The term "oil" refers to oil at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 Pa) refers to a compound that is a liquid and immiscible with water.

[0057] The term "hydrocarbon oil" has traditionally meant an oil essentially formed from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and actually composed of these atoms, without containing silicon or fluorine atoms. Thus, hydrocarbon oils are distinct from silicone oils and fluorinated oils. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oil according to the present invention contains only carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen atoms.

[0058] The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is not zero, but less than 2.66 Pa, more specifically less than 0.13 Pa. For example, vapor pressure can be measured according to the vapor pressure of the oil, according to the static method, or by the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry (Standard OECD 104).

[0059] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention comprises, as a second oil, at least one oil selected from the following: *Ethers of formula ROR' or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR' (wherein the formulas, whether identical or not, the R and R' groups represent saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon groups containing at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C) 16 More specifically, C8~C 16 (representing the base), *Hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, castor oil ethyl ester, *Optionally, a hydroxylated ester oil containing 1 to 4 ester functional groups, which is saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, linear or branched, and at least one of which contains at least 10 carbon atoms. *Liquid polyester obtained from the reaction of monounsaturated fatty acid dimers containing 16-22 carbon atoms, * and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Preferably, the second oil is selected from the following: - Dicaprylyl ether, -Dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, di(C 14~15 -alkyl) carbonate, -Liquid fractions of olive oil, jojoba oil, xymenia oil, pracasi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red pumpkin oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, shea butter liquid fraction and cocoa butter liquid fraction, and mixtures thereof. - Castor oil, - Ethyl ester of castor oil, -2-Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-Octyldecyl palmitate, Octyldodecylneopentanoate, 2-Octyldodecyl stearate, Butyl stearate, 2-Octyldodecyl ethyl phosphate, C 12 ~C 15 Alkyl benzoate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate), capric acid / caprylic triglyceride, C 18~36 Acid triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate), triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate), isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, -Polyesters with the following INCI names: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, dimer dilinoleyl dilinoleate, -and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Preferably, the second oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, non-hydroxylated vegetable oils such as olive oil, castor oil (hydroxylated vegetable oil), ethyl esters of castor oil, capric acid / caprylic acid triglycerides, isocetyl isostearate, pentaerythrityl esters, especially pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition contains at least dicaprylyl ether as a non-volatile oil, in the presence or absence of one or more oils selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, for example, non-hydroxylated vegetable oils such as olive oil, castor oil (hydroxylated vegetable oil), ethyl ester of castor oil, capric acid / caprylic acid triglyceride, isocetyl isostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably dicaprylyl carbonate, non-hydroxylated vegetable oils such as olive oil, ethyl ester of castor oil, capric acid / caprylic acid triglyceride, isocetyl isostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof, in the presence or absence of these oils.

[0063] The content of the second oil varies, more specifically, from 1% to 32% by mass, preferably from 10% to 30% by mass, and even more specifically from 15% to 30% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0064] Preferably, the content of the first and second oils is such that the mass ratio of the first oil to the second oil varies from 50 / 50 to 90 / 10, more specifically from 55 / 45 to 70 / 30.

[0065] More oil Volatile hydrocarbon oils The compositions according to the present invention may optionally include at least one volatile oil, more specifically, at least one volatile oil selected from non-polar volatile hydrocarbon oils, i.e., oils containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms (hydrocarbon oils).

[0066] The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapor pressure of 2.66 Pa or higher, particularly in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, especially up to 13,000 Pa, and preferably up to 1,300 Pa, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0067] The volatile oil is more specifically selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably nonpolar, linear or branched, and mixtures thereof, in particular, - Branching C8~C 16 Alkanes, for example, C8~C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and oils sold under the brand names, for example, Isopar or Permethyl. - Linear alkanes, e.g., C 11 ~C 16 ,and - those mixtures Selected from.

[0068] If the composition contains it / them, the content of volatile hydrocarbon oils is preferably 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, and advantageously 1% by mass or less, relative to the mass of the composition, and advantageously the composition does not contain volatile oils.

[0069] Nonpolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may optionally contain at least one nonpolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0070] For example, nonpolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from liquid paraffin, squalane, isoeicosane, non-volatile mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene, decene / butene copolymer, butene / isobutene copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, of a non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil based on the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain a non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0072] Silicone oils and fluorinated oils As shown above, the compositions according to the present invention optionally contain at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone and / or fluorinated oil. However, if such oils are present, their content will be 4% by mass or less, more specifically 2% by mass or less, and preferably 1% by mass or less, relative to the mass of the composition.

[0073] The term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil that contains at least one silicon atom.

[0074] The term "fluorinated oil" is understood to mean an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0075] Among non-volatile silicone oils, examples include dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, and mixtures thereof (INCI names).

[0076] In particular, among non-volatile fluorinated oils, specific examples include perfluorinated compounds such as perfluorodecalin or perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene (INCI names). Fluorosilicone oils can also be mentioned.

[0077] In particular, examples of volatile silicone oils include dimethicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, all having viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt.

[0078] Examples of volatile fluorinated oils include nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] surfactant Nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants As shown above, the compositions according to the present invention include at least one first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant selected from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Among sucrose esters, sucrose cocoate, at least one saturated or unsaturated C 12 ~C 24Examples of suitable sucrose esters include monoesters or polyesters containing groups, preferably monoesters, diesters, or triesters. Preferably, the sucrose ester does not contain alkoxylated (especially ethoxylated or propoxylated) groups. Among suitable sucrose esters, examples include sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose behenate, or sucrose trystearate, either alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the sucrose ester is selected from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, or mixtures thereof.

[0081] With respect to sorbitan esters, at least one saturated or unsaturated C 12 ~C 24 Examples of suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monoesters or polyesters containing a group, preferably monoesters, diesters, or triesters. Preferably, the sorbitan ester does not contain an alkoxylated (especially ethoxylated or propoxylated) group. Suitable sorbitan esters include, for example, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan triolelate, or sorbitan palmitate, and mixtures thereof, preferably sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan triolelate, or sorbitan palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Preferably, the composition contains, as a nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, or sucrose behenate, either alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the sucrose ester is selected from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, or mixtures thereof.

[0083] More specifically, the content of the first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant varies from 1% to 7% by mass, more specifically from 2% to 6% by mass, and preferably from 2% to 4% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0084] Further nonionic surfactants The compositions according to the present invention may optionally contain at least one further nonionic hydrocarbon or silicone, preferably hydrocarbon-based, surfactant.

[0085] Further nonionic surfactants can be selected from, in particular, (poly)oxyalkylened alkyl esters and polyalkyl esters, (poly)oxyalkylened alcohols, (poly)oxyalkylened ethers, (poly)oxyalkylened sorbitan alkyl esters and polyalkyl esters, (poly)oxyalkylened or non-(poly)oxyalkylened sorbitan ethers, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides (especially glucosides), (poly)oxyalkylened or non-(poly)oxyalkylened (poly)glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters, (poly)oxyalkylened or non-(poly)oxyalkylened (poly)glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof. These compounds are, more specifically, at least one C8-C 30 The alkyl radical is present, and the oxyalkylene units are C2-C3, preferably ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylene units, more specifically oxyethylene units, and also the number of (poly)glycerol units, also varies as a function of the desired HLB value.

[0086] If they are present, it is advantageous that the content of additional nonionic surfactants be less than the content of the first surfactant. Their content is determined very clearly in order to maintain the water-in-oil emulsion.

[0087] More specifically, if the composition contains it / them, the content of further nonionic surfactants corresponds to 0.01% to 1% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0088] More specifically, the content of the additional nonionic surfactant corresponds to 1% to 50% by mass, more preferably 1% to 25% by mass, relative to the mass of the first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant.

[0089] Preferably, the composition does not contain any further nonionic surfactants.

[0090] Further anionic surfactants The compositions according to the present invention may optionally include at least one further anionic surfactant, more specifically a hydrocarbon surfactant.

[0091] Anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides or C 10 ~C 30 They can be selected from metal salts of fatty acids.

[0092] More specifically, these compounds are in the form of salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, or primary or secondary amines, particularly C2-C4 amines or alkanolamines.

[0093] These compounds generally contain 10 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 10 to 20 carbon atoms, in their longest hydrocarbon chains, and are saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, or cyclic. They may further contain up to 20 oxyalkylene units, preferably up to 15 units (particularly oxyethylene units).

[0094] If the composition contains it / them, the content of further anionic surfactants is such that the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0095] More specifically, if the composition contains it / them, the content of further anionic surfactants is 1% by mass or less, more specifically 0.4% by mass or less, and even more specifically 0.3% by mass or less, relative to the mass of the composition. For example, the content of further anionic surfactants may be 0.01% to 1% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0096] More specifically, the content of the anionic surfactant corresponds to 1% to 50% by mass, more preferably 1% to 25% by mass, relative to the mass of the first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant.

[0097] Preferably, the composition does not contain further anionic surfactants.

[0098] Coloring agents According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one colorant that is synthetic, natural, or of natural origin.

[0099] The colorants can be selected from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, and lipid-soluble dyes.

[0100] pigment The term "pigment" is understood to mean white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in the medium in which they exist and are intended to color and / or opaque the resulting composition and / or deposit.

[0101] Inorganic pigments and pearlescent agents According to certain embodiments, the pigment used in accordance with the present invention is selected from inorganic pigments.

[0102] The term "inorganic pigment" is understood to mean any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter "Pigments, Inorganic" of Ullmann's Encyclopaedia. Among the inorganic pigments used in this invention, examples include zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, or even zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, or metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.

[0103] The size of the pigment is generally greater than 100 nm, up to 10 μm, preferably in the range of 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably in the range of 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0104] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the diameter of the pigment is characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm, sometimes up to 10 μm, preferably in the range of 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably in the range of 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0105] The size is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available Malvern MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range, from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data is processed based on Mie scattering theory, which is best suited to size distributions in the submicronic to multimicronic range, thereby allowing for the determination of the "effective" particle diameter. This theory is particularly described in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0106] D

[50] represents the maximum size that corresponds to 50% of the particle's volume.

[0107] In the context of the present invention, the inorganic pigment is more specifically iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. More specifically, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate can be cited as examples, for example, sold by Miyoshi Kasei under the reference name NAI®.

[0108] Pearlescent pigments can also be used as inorganic pigments in this invention.

[0109] The term "pearlescent pigment" should be understood to mean any colored particles of any shape, whether iridescent or not, that are produced or synthesized within the shells of certain mollusks and exhibit a color effect through light interference.

[0110] The pearlescent agent can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica coated with iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated mica coated with chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica coated with organic dyes, and further pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. These may be mica particles in which at least two consecutive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants are superimposed on the surface of the mica particles.

[0111] Examples of pearlescent agents include natural mica coated with titanium dioxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or bismuth oxychloride.

[0112] More specifically, pearlescent agents can exhibit or produce a glint of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper.

[0113] Among the pigments that can be used in accordance with the present invention, we can also mention pigments that have optical effects different from simple conventional coloring effects, such as monochromatic pigments, i.e., pigments that have a unified and stable effect like those produced by conventional colorants. Within the scope of the present invention, the term "stabilized" means that there is no influence of color fluctuations due to the viewing angle or further due to temperature changes.

[0114] For example, this material can be selected from particles having a metallic luster, goniochromatic colorants, diffraction pigments, thermochromic agents, optical glossants, and even fibers, particularly interference fibers. Naturally, these various materials can be combined to exhibit two types of effects simultaneously, and in fact, even novel effects according to the invention.

[0115] According to another specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0116] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. As long as it is treated with a hydrophobic compound, it exhibits excellent affinity for the oily phase and can transport the oily phase.

[0117] The coating may also contain at least one further non-lipophilic compound.

[0118] Within the scope of the present invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the present invention generally means the whole or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface treatment agent that is absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the aforementioned pigment.

[0119] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques with chemical, electrical, mechanochemical, or mechanical properties well known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products can also be used.

[0120] Surface treatment agents can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto pigments by evaporation of the solvent, chemical reactions, and the formation of covalent bonds.

[0121] According to one alternative, the surface treatment consists of a pigment coating.

[0122] The coating can amount to 0.1% to 20% by mass, particularly 0.5% to 5% by mass, of the total mass of the coated pigment.

[0123] Before incorporating the particles into other components of a makeup or care composition, the coating can be produced, for example, by simply mixing the particles and the aforementioned surface treatment agent while stirring, optionally with heating, thereby adsorbing the liquid surface treatment agent onto the surface of solid particles.

[0124] The coating can be produced, for example, by a chemical reaction between a surface treatment agent and the surface of solid pigment particles, and by the formation of covalent bonds between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in U.S. Patent No. 4,578,266.

[0125] Chemical surface treatment can consist of diluting a surface treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing a pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surface treatment agent deposits on the surface of the pigment.

[0126] If the pigment includes an oil-lipid or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0127] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, pigments can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surface treatment agents, fluorinated surface treatment agents, fluorosilicone surface treatment agents, metal soaps, N-acyl amino acids or their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyltriisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural plant or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty acid esters, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in accordance with the present invention.

[0128] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0129] The aforementioned hydrophilic compounds, which enable surface treatment of pigments to optimize pigment dispersion in the aqueous phase, are more specifically selected from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates, or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0130] Examples of biological polymers include polymers based on carbohydrate-type monomers.

[0131] More specifically, examples include biosaccharide gums, chitosan and its derivatives, such as butoxychitosan, carboxymethylchitosan, carboxybutylchitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc., chitin and its derivatives, such as carboxymethylchitin or chitin glycolate, cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose acetate, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium hyaluronate, soluble proteoglycans, galactoarabinan, glycosaminoglycans, glycogen, sclerotium gum, dextran, phosphate-crosslinked starch (distarch phosphate), starch and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Organic pigments According to certain embodiments, the colorants are synthetic, natural, or naturally derived organic pigments.

[0133] The term "organic pigment" is understood to mean any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter "Pigments, Organic" of Ullmann's Encyclopaedia. Organic pigments can be selected from, in particular, nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, or quinophthalone compounds.

[0134] Organic pigments include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments classified in the Colour Index by the symbols CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Colour Index by the symbols CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments classified in the Colour Index by the symbols CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments classified in the Colour Index by the symbols CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, and CI Red pigments classified by the symbols 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 can be selected, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2679771.

[0135] The pigment may also be in the form of a composite pigment as described in European Patent Application Publication No. 1184426. These composite pigments may, in particular, consist of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the inorganic core.

[0136] Pigments can also be lakes. The term "lake" refers to an insoluble dye adsorbed onto insoluble particles, and the resulting aggregate is understood to remain insoluble during use.

[0137] The inorganic substrates on which the dye is adsorbed include, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0138] Among organic dyes, cochineal carmine can be mentioned. Products known by the following names can be cited: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), or D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0139] An example of a rake is the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0140] It should be noted that organic pigments can also be used for coating. In this case, refer to the corresponding description given for inorganic pigments.

[0141] water soluble dye According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the colorant is a water-soluble dye.

[0142] Within the scope of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" is understood to mean any natural or synthetic compound, generally an organic compound, that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and capable of coloring.

[0143] Suitable water-soluble dyes for the present invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, or FDC Blue 1.

[0144] Among natural water-soluble dyes, anthocyanins, belonging to the orthodiphenol class, can be cited. More specifically, these compounds are derived from fruits such as grapes, blackberries, and plums, or vegetables such as red cabbage, red radish, or purple sweet potato. Therefore, they are essentially responsible for the lilac, red, blue, and purple colors of flowers, fruits, leaves, seeds, and roots.

[0145] Other examples include betanin (beetroot), copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, caramel, riboflavin, flavonoids and tannins extracted from natural or fermented plants, juglon, lawsone, fermented soybean, algal, fungal or microorganism extracts, unsubstituted 3-position flavilium salts as described in European Patent No. 1172091, or extracts of Gesneria fulgens, Blechnum procerum, or Saxifraga.

[0146] fat soluble dye According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the coloring agent is a lipid-soluble dye.

[0147] Within the scope of the present invention, the term "lipid-soluble dye" is understood to mean any natural or synthetic compound, generally an organic compound, that is soluble in an oily phase or a solvent miscible with an oily phase and can provide color.

[0148] Suitable lipid-soluble dyes for the present invention include, in particular, lipid-soluble dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, or Sudan Brown.

[0149] In particular, examples of natural lipid-soluble dyes include carotenes such as β-carotene, α-carotene, or lycopene, xanthophylls such as quinoline yellow, astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, or zeaxanthin, annatto, curcumin, quinizalin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-bis(p-toluidino)anthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinizarin Green SS), and chlorophyll.

[0150] If the composition contains it / they, the colorant content is advantageously 0.05% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 5% by mass, relative to the mass of the composition.

[0151] solid fat compounds wax The compositions according to the present invention may optionally contain at least one polar or nonpolar hydrocarbon wax, or optionally one silicone wax.

[0152] In the context of the present invention, the waxes considered are generally lipophilic compounds that are solid at ambient temperature (25°C), undergo a reversible solid / liquid phase change, and have a melting point of 30°C or higher, more specifically above 45°C. Advantageously, the melting point is 90°C or lower, more specifically 80°C or lower, preferably 70°C or lower.

[0153] The melting point of solid fatty substances can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the DSC Q100 sold by TA Instruments with TA Universal Analysis software.

[0154] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of approximately 5 mg of solid fatty substance is placed in a crucible containing a sealed aluminum capsule. The sample undergoes a first temperature increase from 20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min up to 80°C, then is left at an isothermal temperature of 100°C for 20 minutes, then is cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C / min, and finally undergoes a second temperature increase from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C / min. The melting point of a solid fatty substance is the peak value at the highest endothermic temperature observed in the melting curve, and it represents the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0155] Polar hydrocarbon waxes More specifically, polar waxes are selected from hydrocarbon ester waxes, hydrocarbon alcohol waxes, silicone waxes, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0156] The term "hydrocarbon wax" is understood to mean a wax that is essentially formed from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally from oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and is actually composed of these atoms, but does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms. This may include alcohol groups, ester groups, ether groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, and / or amide groups.

[0157] The term "ester wax" is understood, according to the present invention, to mean a wax containing at least one ester functional group. Ester waxes can be further hydroxylated.

[0158] According to the present invention, the term "alcohol wax" is understood to mean a wax containing at least one alcohol functional group, i.e., at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. Further alcohol waxes, in particular, do not contain ester functional groups.

[0159] The term "silicone wax" is understood to mean a wax containing at least one silicon atom, particularly a wax containing a Si-O group.

[0160] Ester wax In particular, the following waxes can be used as ester waxes: i) A wax of formula R1COOR2, where R1 and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic fatty acid chains having a number of carbon atoms ranging from 10 to 50, which may contain heteroatoms, particularly oxygen, and whose melting point ranges from 30°C to 120°C, preferably from 30°C to 100°C. In particular, as an ester wax, C 20 ~C 40 Alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (alkyl groups containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms), either alone or in mixtures, or C 20 ~C 40 Alkyl stearates can be used. These waxes are particularly sold by Koster Keunen under the names Kester Wax K 82 P (registered trademark), Hydroxypolyester K 82 P (registered trademark), Kester Wax K 80 P (registered trademark), or Kester Wax K82H. 14 ~C 18A mixture of carboxylic acid esters and alcohols can also be used, such as Koster Keunen's product Cetyl Ester Wax 814, Croda's SP Crodamol MS MBAL or Crodamol MS PA, or Laserson's Miraceti. Glycols and butylene glycol montanes (octacosanoates), such as Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montane), sold by Clariant, can also be used. ii) Di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate, sold by Heterene under the name Hest 2T-4S (registered trademark). iii) General formula R 3 -(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 ) is a diester wax of dicarboxylic acid, in which R 3 and R 5 They are the same or different, preferably the same, C4~C 30 R represents an alkyl group (an alkyl group contains 4 to 30 carbon atoms). 4 This may contain one or more unsaturated C4-C atoms, and may be linear or branched. 30 Represents an aliphatic group (alkyl groups contain 4 to 30 carbon atoms). Preferably C4-C 30 Aliphatic groups are linear and unsaturated. iv) Especially linear or branched C8-C 32Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, preferably vegetable oils, that have fatty chains, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, or hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as waxes sold by Sophim under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 (registered trademark) and 22L73 (registered trademark). Such waxes are described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2792190A. An example of a wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol is the one sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57. v) Particularly refined animal or plant-derived waxes, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, espartograss wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, wood wax, smach wax, montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, laurel wax or sunflower wax. vi) Examples of animal or plant-derived, natural or synthetic, polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon waxes include those in which the number of oxyalkylene (C2-C4) units may vary from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol units may vary from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylene-modified beeswax such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax, polyoxyethylene-modified carnauba wax such as PEG-12 carnauba wax, polyoxyethylene-modified or polyoxypropylene-modified and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin wax such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin, PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride, polyglycerol-modified beeswax, especially polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, acacia decurrens / jojoba / sunflower seed wax / polyglyceryl-3 ester mixture, polyglycerol-modified plant wax, such as mimosa, jojoba, or sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof (acacia decurrens / jojoba / sunflower seed wax, polyglyceryl-3 ester). vii) Saturated, optionally hydroxylated C 16 ~C 30 A wax equivalent to a partial or total ester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol, preferably a total ester. The term "total ester" is understood to mean that all hydroxyl functional groups of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), or tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), either alone or in mixtures. Among suitable compounds are triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil such as Thixcin R or Thixcin E, sold by Elementis Specialties, for example. viii) and mixtures thereof.

[0161] Alcohol wax Examples of alcohol waxes include alcohols that are preferably linear, preferably saturated, contain 16 to 60 carbon atoms, and have a melting point of 25°C to 90°C. Examples of alcohol waxes include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0162] Non-polar hydrocarbon waxes The composition may optionally include at least one further wax selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes.

[0163] Within the scope of the present invention, the term "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax" is understood to mean a wax whose structure contains only carbon atoms or hydrogen atoms. In other words, such waxes do not contain other atoms, in particular heteroatoms such as nitrogen, oxygen, or silicon.

[0164] In particular, examples of nonpolar waxes suitable for the present invention include microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, polymethylene wax, polyethylene wax, wax obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, or microwax, especially hydrocarbon waxes such as polyethylene.

[0165] Silicone wax Examples of silicone waxes include mixtures containing compounds of the C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) type, such as Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax, a product sold by Dow Corning. Other examples include mixtures containing compounds of the C30-45 alkylmethicone (INCI name), such as Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Siliconized beeswax can also be used.

[0166] Preferably, the composition does not contain silicone wax. Preferably, the composition does not contain non-polar hydrocarbon wax.

[0167] Preferably, if the composition contains wax, the wax is a polar hydrocarbon wax, particularly a plant-derived wax, a wax obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oil, saturated, optionally hydroxylated C 16 ~C 30 The wax is selected from waxes equivalent to the total ester of a carboxylic acid with glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] The composition according to the present invention may contain a wax that is preferably polar and preferably hydrocarbon-based in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by mass, more specifically 0.1% to 3% by mass, relative to the mass of the composition.

[0169] paste-like compound Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may also contain at least one fatty compound that is paste-like at ambient temperature.

[0170] Within the scope of the present invention, the term “paste-like fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point in the range of 20 to 55°C, preferably 25 to 45°C, and / or a viscosity at 40°C in the range of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poise), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, as measured using a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 apparatus equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz.

[0171] Those skilled in the art can, based on general knowledge, select from MS-r3 and MS-r4 spindles for measuring viscosity so that they can perform the measurement of the paste-like compound to be tested.

[0172] Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally polymeric in nature, and can be selected from silicone compounds, and they may also be provided in the form of mixtures of hydrocarbon compounds and / or silicone compounds.

[0173] In the case of a mixture of different paste-like fatty substances, it is preferable to use a paste-like hydrocarbon compound (mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen atoms, more specifically in the form of an ester group) in the dominant proportion.

[0174] Among the paste-like compounds that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention, examples include lanolin and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolin, oxypropylene lanolin, or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55°C. Esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, particularly esters having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (with a melting point of about 20 to 35°C and / or a viscosity at 40°C in the range of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s), such as triisostearyl or cetyl citrate, arachidyl propionate, polyvinyl laurate, cholesterol esters, plant-derived triglycerides, such as partially or completely hydrogenated vegetable oils, plant-derived butters, viscous polyesters such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0175] Esters of oligomeric glycerols, particularly esters of diglycerols, specifically adipic acid-glycerol condensates obtained by reacting some of the hydroxyl groups of glycerol with a mixture of fatty acids such as capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, particularly those sold by Sasol under the trademark name Softisan 649; or, if necessary, esters of dimer diols and dimer dio acids in which their free alcohol or acidic functional groups are esterified with an acid or alcohol group, particularly dimer dilinoleate esters, such as products sold under the trademark name Plandool (bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G) or phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S)), may also be suitable as paste-like compounds.

[0176] Other examples include paste-like silicone fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) having an alkyl or alkoxy type pendant chain with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and a melting point of 20 to 55°C, including stearyl dimethicone, in particular, those sold by Dow Corning under the trademark names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] The composition according to the present invention may contain a paste-like compound, preferably polar and preferably hydrocarbon-based, in an amount of 0.1% to 5% by mass, more specifically 0.1% to 2% by mass, relative to the mass of the composition.

[0178] Conventional additional cosmetic ingredients Furthermore, the compositions according to the present invention may also contain any conventional cosmetic ingredients that can be selected from fillers, lipophilic thickeners, such as hydrophobically modified or unmodified silica, hydrophobically modified or unmodified clay, dextrin esters, antioxidants, lipophilic or hydrophilic film-forming polymers other than ethylcellulose, fragrances, preservatives, neutralizing agents, buffering agents, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, free radical scavengers, chelating agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select any additional components and / or amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the present invention are not adversely affected, or substantially adversely affected.

[0180] transparent composition Another subject of the present invention is a transparent or translucent composition provided in the form of a reverse emulsion, comprising: - At least 9% by mass, preferably at least 10% by mass, of ethylcellulose relative to the mass of the composition. - 25% to 55% by mass of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C, relative to the total mass of the composition. 10 ~C 26 At least one first non-volatile oil, selected from fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, which is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. - At least one second hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, isocetyl isostearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, or ethyl ester of castor oil. - A mixture of sucrose laurate and sucrose palmitate in an amount of 1.5% to 7% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. - At least one liquid saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C2-C8 polyol, preferably glycerol, containing 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The mass ratio of the first oil / second oil varies from -50 / 50 to 90 / 10, more specifically from 50 / 50 to 80 / 20, more specifically from 50 / 50 to 70 / 30, and in reality from 55 / 45 to 70 / 30. - Water and liquid polyols in an amount that varies from 10% to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0181] The term "transparent or translucent composition" is defined in Formulaction's Turbiscan Lab This is understood to mean a formulation in which the light transmittance measured at 25°C is greater than 30%, preferably 40% or more, and more specifically 60% or more.

[0182] The transparent or translucent compositions are provided more specifically in the form of gels, with a G* coefficient (viscoelastic modulus) of 10 to 1000 Pa for phase angles of 40° to 70°, 50 to 1000 Pa for phase angles of 40° to 65°, and more specifically 50 to 1000 Pa for phase angles of 40° to 60°, and actually even further 80 to 1000 Pa. The viscoelastic properties (G* and δ) are measured using a controlled stress rheometer (TA Instruments AR-G2), and the values ​​are obtained at a viscoelastic plateau at 25°C according to the protocol described in detail above.

[0183] According to a more specific embodiment of the present invention, the transparent or translucent composition may optionally contain at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil or one fluorinated oil, or a mixture thereof, in an amount of 2% by mass or less, advantageously 1% by mass or less, preferably 0.5% by mass or less, and more preferably 0.2% by mass or less, based on the mass of the composition. Preferably, it / they are not included.

[0184] According to a more specific alternative embodiment of the present invention, the transparent or translucent composition contains at least 11% and up to 17% by mass of ethyl cellulose based on the total mass of the composition.

[0185] Preferably, the transparent or translucent compositions according to the present invention do not contain pigments. Preferably, they also do not contain fillers, such as treated or untreated silica, clay, starch, or talc, which are typically present in an insoluble and dispersed form in the medium of the composition. If the composition contains them, their content is such that the transmittance remains within the above range.

[0186] Preferably, the transparent or translucent composition does not contain any further anionic surfactants as described above. If it does contain them, their content does not exceed 0.4% by mass, more specifically 0.2% by mass, and preferably 0.1% by mass, relative to the mass of the composition.

[0187] According to one embodiment, the transparent or translucent composition does not contain any further nonionic surfactants as described above. If it does contain them, the amount thereof does not exceed 3% by mass, and more specifically, does not exceed 1% by mass, relative to the mass of the composition. More specifically, if the composition contains them, the amount of further nonionic surfactants corresponds to 0.01% to 1% by mass, and more specifically, 0.01% to 0.5% by mass, relative to the mass of the composition.

[0188] The compositions according to the present invention may optionally contain at least one water-soluble solvent selected from saturated C1-C5 monoalcohols, particularly ethanol or isopropanol.

[0189] Preferably, the content of water, polyol, and optionally water-soluble solvent and surfactant is 15% to 25% by mass, more specifically 17% to 22% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0190] It should be noted that the polyol content is such that the refractive index of the mixture of the aqueous phase and the surfactant can be brought closer to the refractive index of the lipophilic phase (the difference is 0.05).

[0191] Note that refractive index can be measured at ambient temperature, particularly using an Abbey-type refractometer.

[0192] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the aforementioned transparent or translucent composition is - 11% to 14% by mass of ethyl cellulose relative to the total mass of the composition, -30% to 50% by mass of octyldodecanol as the first oil, relative to the total mass of the composition, -Optionally combined with dicaprylyl carbonate or pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, with at least dicaprylyl ether as a second oil, A first oil / second oil with a mass ratio that varies from -50 / 50 to 70 / 30, - A mixture of sucrose laurate and sucrose palmitate in an amount of 2% to 7% by mass, preferably 2.5% to 6% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. - 10% to 20% by mass of water and glycerol relative to the total mass of the composition, Optionally, at least one water-soluble solvent selected from saturated C1-C5 monoalcohols, The composition contains water, a polyol, and optionally a water-soluble solvent and a surfactant in an amount of 15% to 25% by mass, more specifically 17% to 22% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. At least one lipid-soluble or water-soluble dye, Includes.

[0193] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the transparent or translucent composition exhibits a sucrose laurate / sucrose palmitate mass ratio that varies from 80 / 20 to 20 / 80, preferably 40 / 60 to 60 / 40, and more preferably 50 / 50.

[0194] Preparation of composition The emulsion is obtained by using means conventional to those skilled in the art for preparing water-in-oil emulsions.

[0195] In this way, an aqueous phase is prepared in one part of the emulsion and an oily phase in the other. The two phases thus obtained are brought into contact with sufficient stirring to obtain a homogeneous composition, preferably with the aqueous phase introduced into the oily phase.

[0196] Typically, ethylcellulose is brought into contact with a first oil, and then, preferably, after a homogeneous mixture is obtained, other compounds in the oily phase, including any solid compounds of the type of wax or paste-like compound, are added.

[0197] Depending on their properties, colorants may be present in the aqueous or lipophilic phase, or they may be added after the emulsion has been formed; in practice, these two possibilities can be combined.

[0198] The temperature at which the oily phase is prepared typically varies between 25 and 110°C, preferably between 70 and 90°C, depending on the properties of the components that make it up.

[0199] The aqueous phase is generally prepared at a temperature of 40-90°C.

[0200] Similarly, the mixing of the two phases takes place more specifically at temperatures below 100°C, for example, below 90°C. For example, emulsions are formed at temperatures between 40°C and 90°C.

[0201] Once the emulsion is obtained, it is cooled as in the conventional method, or preferably while stirring, to a temperature suitable for filling into a suitable container.

[0202] How to apply Another subject of the present invention is a method for applying makeup to and / or caring for the lips, the method comprising applying the above composition.

[0203] The compositions according to the present invention can be drawn up and applied by any suitable means, for example, by an applicator including at least partially assembled applicator heads, or further by fingers.

[0204] Throughout this specification, including the claims, the phrase “comprising a” should be understood to be synonymous with “comprising at least one” unless otherwise specified.

[0205] The expressions "between... and..." and "within the range of..." should be understood to mean that a limit point is included, unless otherwise specified.

[0206] In addition, the total amount of the components in the composition represents 100% by mass of the composition.

[0207] The present invention will be described in more detail by the embodiments presented below.

[0208] Unless otherwise specified, the quantities shown are expressed as mass percentages.

[0209] The following examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the present invention. [Examples]

[0210] Example 1 Prepare the following compositions.

[0211] [Table 1]

[0212] Preparation process Octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, and ethylcellulose are mixed in a Rayneri mixer at 85°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0213] Simultaneously, an aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, surfactant, dye, and preservative in a Reynell mixer while stirring at 85°C.

[0214] Then, the aqueous phase is added to the initial mixture while stirring at 85°C using a Reynell mixer.

[0215] Allow the mixture to cool to ambient temperature and then transfer it to a suitable container.

[0216] evaluation Transparent (Turbiscan Lab (Measurement of light transmittance by Formulaction) A colored, uniform, and stable composition is obtained.

[0217] This is easily applied as a uniform deposit that is not very sticky, does not flow out of the makeup area, and only moves slightly.

[0218] The presence of deposits, their thickness, and comfort contribute to a feeling of moisture retention.

[0219] As shown in the table below, the sediments are glossy and maintain this condition over time (assessment according to the protocol described in the description).

[0220] [Table 2]

[0221] Example 2 Prepare the following compositions.

[0222] [Table 3]

[0223] Preparation process Octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, and ethylcellulose are mixed in a Reynelli mixer at 85°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0224] Meanwhile, an aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, surfactant, dye, glycerol, and preservative in a Rayleigh mixer while stirring at 85°C.

[0225] Thereafter, the aqueous phase is added to the first mixture while stirring at 85°C in a Rayleigh mixer.

[0226] The mixture is cooled to ambient temperature and packed into a suitable container.

[0227] Evaluation Transparent (Turbiscan Lab , measurement of light transmittance by Formulaction), a colored, homogeneous, and stable composition is obtained.

[0228] This is not very sticky, does not flow out from the makeup area, and is easily applied as a uniform deposit that only moves slightly.

[0229] The deposit is present, thick, comfortable, and contributes to a moisturizing feeling. As shown in the following table, the deposit has luster and its state is maintained over time (evaluation according to the protocol shown in the description).

[0230]

Table 4

[0231] Example 3 Prepare the following composition.

[0232]

Table 5

[0233] Preparation process

[0234] Ethyl cellulose is mixed with a portion of the oil (octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate) in a Reynelli mixer while stirring at 85°C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0235] The pigment is ground using a three-roll mill with the remaining oil, and then added to the previous mixture.

[0236] Simultaneously, an aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, surfactant, glycerol, propanediol, and preservative in a Reynell mixer while stirring at 85°C.

[0237] Then, the aqueous phase is added to the initial mixture while stirring at 85°C using a Reynell mixer.

[0238] The combined product is cooled to ambient temperature and then packed into a suitable container.

[0239] evaluation A uniform and stable composition can be obtained.

[0240] This is easily applied as a uniform deposit that is not very sticky, does not flow out of the makeup area, and only moves slightly.

[0241] The presence of deposits, their thickness, and comfort contribute to a feeling of moisture retention.

[0242] The sediments are glossy, and this condition is maintained over time.

[0243] Example 4 Prepare the following compositions.

[0244] [Table 6]

[0245] Preparation process Octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether and ethyl cellulose are mixed in a Rayner mixer while stirring at 85 °C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0246] At the same time, an aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, surfactant, dye, glycerol and preservative in a Rayner mixer while stirring at 85 °C.

[0247] Then, the aqueous phase is added to the first mixture while stirring at 85 °C in a Rayner mixer.

[0248] The mixture is cooled to ambient temperature and packed into a suitable container.

[0249] Evaluation A translucent (Turbiscan Lab , measurement of light transmittance by Formulaction), uniform and stable composition is obtained.

[0250] This is not very sticky, does not flow out of the makeup area, and is easily applied as a uniform deposit that only moves slightly.

[0251] The deposit is present, thick, comfortable, and contributes to a moisturizing feeling.

[0252] The deposit has a gloss and its state is maintained over time.

[0253] Example 5 Prepare the following composition.

[0254]

Table 7

[0255] Preparation process Octyldodecanol, olive oil and ethyl cellulose are mixed in a Rayner mixer while stirring at 85 °C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0256] Simultaneously, an aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, surfactant, dye, glycerol, and preservative in a Reynell mixer while stirring at 85°C.

[0257] Then, the aqueous phase is added to the initial mixture while stirring at 85°C using a Reynell mixer.

[0258] Allow the mixture to cool to ambient temperature and then transfer it to a suitable container.

[0259] evaluation A composition that is not transparent, is not uniform, and is not stable is obtained.

[0260] This is easily applied as a uniform deposit that is not very sticky, does not flow out of the makeup area, and only moves slightly.

[0261] The presence of deposits, their thickness, and comfort contribute to a feeling of moisture retention.

[0262] The sediments are glossy, and this condition is maintained over time.

[0263] Comparative Example 6 Prepare the following compositions.

[0264] [Table 8]

[0265] Preparation process Octyldodecanol, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, and ethylcellulose are mixed in a Reynell mixer at 85°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0266] Simultaneously, an aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, surfactant, dye, and preservative in a Reynelli mixer while stirring at 85°C.

[0267] Then, the aqueous phase is added to the initial mixture while stirring at 85°C using a Reynell mixer.

[0268] Allow the mixture to cool to ambient temperature and then transfer it to a suitable container.

[0269] evaluation The resulting mixture is a homogeneous water-in-oil composition.

[0270] This is far less easy to apply than the compositions according to the present invention (e.g., according to Example 1): it is more viscous and resistant during application (the composition is said to be "braking"). In addition, the resulting deposit is viscous, shiny, and greasy.

Claims

1. A composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, - At least 8% by mass of ethyl cellulose relative to the mass of the composition, - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C １０ ~C ２６ A first non-volatile oil, selected from fatty alcohols, which is liquid at 25°C, - * Ether of formula ROR' or carbonate of formula RO(CO)OR' (wherein the formula, whether identical or not, the R and R' groups are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon systems C ３ ~C １６ (Represents the base) * Hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, castor oil esters, and * A mixture of these, comprising at least one second hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at 25°C, - At least one first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant selected from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, or mixtures thereof, Includes, - The water content is 5% to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. A composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ethylcellulose content is 8% to 17% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the first non-volatile oil is selected from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the content of the first non-volatile oil varies from 20% by mass to 60% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

5. The second hydrocarbon oil is - Dicaprylyl ether, - Dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, di(C) １４～１５ -Alkyl) carbonate, -Liquid fractions of olive oil, jojoba oil, xymenia oil, pracasi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red pumpkin oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, shea butter liquid fraction and cocoa butter liquid fraction, and mixtures thereof. - Castor oil, - Ethyl ester of castor oil, and - A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is selected from a mixture thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the second hydrocarbon oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, non-hydroxylated vegetable oil, castor oil, ethyl ester of castor oil, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the content of the second hydrocarbon oil varies from 1% by mass to 32% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant is selected alone or in mixture from sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, or sucrose behenate.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the content of the first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant varies from 1% by mass to 7% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition contains at least one anionic surfactant in an amount of 0.3% by mass or less relative to the mass of the composition.

11. A saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C molecule containing 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. ２ ~C ８ The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising at least one liquid polyol selected from compounds.

12. C １ to C ５ monoalcohol, C ３ and C ４ ketone and C ２ to C ４ The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it can contain at least one water-soluble solvent selected from aldehydes, and mixtures thereof.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it contains at least one volatile oil.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the amount of the aqueous phase corresponds to 5% to 40% by mass relative to the mass of the composition, the aqueous phase means water, and if the composition contains a water-soluble solvent and / or a liquid polyol, the aqueous phase further contains a water-soluble solvent and / or a liquid polyol.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized by comprising at least one colorant selected from pigments, pearlescent agents, water-soluble dyes, lipid-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

16. - 11% to 14% by mass of ethyl cellulose relative to the total mass of the composition, - With respect to the total mass of the composition, 30% to 50% by mass of octyldodecanol as the first non-volatile oil, - As the second hydrocarbon oil, dicaprylyl ether and - A mixture of sucrose laurate and sucrose palmitate in an amount of 2% to 7% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, - 10% to 20% by mass of water and glycerol relative to the total mass of the composition, - comprising at least one lipid-soluble or water-soluble dye, The mass ratio of the first non-volatile oil to the second hydrocarbon oil varies from 50 / 50 to 70 / 30. The content of water, polyol, and surfactant is 15% to 25% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, or, if the composition further contains a water-soluble solvent, the content of water, polyol, surfactant, and water-soluble solvent is 15% to 25% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. A transparent or translucent composition provided in the form of a reverse emulsion.

17. A method for applying makeup and / or care to human keratin material, comprising applying the composition described in any one of claims 1 to 16.

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