Novel three-phase cosmetic composition of natural origin

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a three-phase system, in particular in the form of a Winsor type III system, of which at least 75% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, the cosmetic composition comprising a lipophilic phase, a microemulsion and a hydrophilic phase.

Description

[0001] Description

[0002] New triphasic cosmetic composition of natural origin

[0003] DOMAIN

[0004] The invention relates to new cosmetic compositions of natural origin in the form of a thermodynamically stable triphasic system, their method of formulation, their preparation process and their application.

[0005] CONTEXT

[0006] Cosmetic compositions of natural origin, respectful of nature and the environment are in high demand among consumers. Cosmetic compositions free of silicone-based constituents are particularly sought after. Indeed, silicone oils and more specifically their cyclic monomers have an unwanted environmental and health impact because they are non-biodegradable and suspected of being dangerous to health. Consumers are moving towards cosmetic products derived from natural sources, particularly plant-based, non-petrochemical and renewable, or even biotechnological origin, which is more respectful of food resources.

[0007] In this regard, the international standard ISO 16128 was created, aiming to provide guidelines for the definitions applicable to natural and organic cosmetic ingredients at the international level. This standard specifies the principles and criteria for natural and organic cosmetics and makes it possible to establish the percentage of naturalness in a cosmetic product.

[0008] Cosmetic ingredients have different solubilities due to the hydrophilic or lipophilic nature of their constituents and come in various forms which can be liquid or solid.

[0009] Liquid cosmetic finished products are mainly presented either in the form of an aqueous solution, or in the form of an oil, or in the form of an emulsion.

[0010] Among the many formulations of cosmetic compositions, emulsions and biphasic systems comprising a hydrophilic phase and a lipophilic phase have the advantage of being able to combine compounds that are immiscible with each other in the same composition. Triphasic emulsion systems of the Winsor III type are also known from the prior art.

[0011] Winsor III triphasic systems are microemulsions in equilibrium with excess water and oil. The density of oil in cosmetics is always less than 1, so when the system is in a tube, the oil is at the top of the tube, then the microemulsion is in the center, and finally the aqueous phase is at the bottom of the tube, all in thermodynamic equilibrium. When a Winsor III microemulsion is shaken, the different phases mix again to create an unstable emulsion that takes several minutes or even hours to return to equilibrium.The advantages of this temporary state are a rehomogenization of the system, a very low interfacial tension which allows a uniform spreading on the substrate (skin, nail, hair) which in general is not the case of exclusive systems (that is to say which are based on the exclusion of phases in other words an insolubility of the ingredients of the system), the advantages of the Winsor III system in cosmetics are above all sensory but also allow to free oneself from the intrinsic solubilities of the ingredients which compose it:.

[0012] - the view because it presents 3 distinct phases,

[0013] - the feel because it has an ultra-low interfacial tension, implying great homogeneity and optimal spreading which often makes it possible to resolve the problems of the sticky effect of vegetable oils

[0014] - smell because microemulsions allow for high perfume concentrations between 1 and 30%.

[0015] There is a need for highly or entirely natural cosmetic composition.

[0016] There is a need for systems that allow the introduction and association of active ingredients regardless of their hydrophilic or hydrophobic affinity, in particular without the intervention of a solubilizing or compatibilizing agent.

[0017] There is a need for a composition allowing optimal application of the active ingredients in terms of practicality, efficacy and sensoriality, particularly visual or tactile.

[0018] There is a need for a method to formulate such systems.

[0019] There is a need to provide a process for preparing such compositions.

[0020] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a cosmetic composition of natural origin in the form of a triphasic system comprising a hydrophilic phase, a lipophilic phase and a microemulsion of said phases. Another aim of the invention is to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of a temporary emulsion, easily applicable either directly or by spray.

[0021] Another object of the invention is to provide a method of formulating such triphasic systems and a preparation process.

[0022] A first subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a triphasic system, in particular in the form of a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, in particular from 80 to 90%, preferably greater than 95%, said cosmetic composition consisting of or comprising: a hydrophilic phase consisting of or comprising o an aqueous phase representing from 15 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 30 to 40%, o free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, in liquid form chosen from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, a lipophilic phase consisting of or comprising o an oily phase representing from 10 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition,preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, o a natural oil or a mixture of natural oils, preferably based on vegetable oils or emollients, o free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of silicone and mineral oil relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, a microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase, comprising o one or more surfactants representing from 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 5 to 10%, chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol of fatty acid of natural origin and acyl lactylates, in particular with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol, optionally a colorant, optionally a perfume, at least one cosmetic active ingredient. According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition in the form of a triphasic system, in particular in the form of a Winsor 111 type system,as defined above, of which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin, in particular from 80 to 90%, preferably greater than 95%, said cosmetic composition consisting of or comprising a hydrophilic phase consisting of or comprising o an aqueous phase representing from 15 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 30 to 40%, o optionally a cosmetic mineral or organic salt in a proportion of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 8 to 16%, preferably said salt is derived from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties are previously established, o optionally ethanol in a proportion of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 8 to 16%, o free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition,in liquid form chosen from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, in particular free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, in liquid form comprising from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, a lipophilic phase consisting of or comprising o an oily phase representing from 10 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, o a natural oil or a mixture of natural oils, in particular chosen from:,

[0023] ■ a vegetable oil,

[0024] ■ medium-chain triglycerides containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils),

[0025] ■ monoglycerides or diglycerides from plant extracts

[0026] ■ an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin, in particular amyl oleate, isoamyl oleate, ethyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl laurate, diethylsebacate, ■ an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular chosen from terpenes, squalene and squalane, in particular comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, o free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of silicone and mineral oil relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, a microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase, comprising o one or more surfactants representing from 2 to 15% by mass of the mass total of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 5 to 10%, o chosen from alkylpolyglucosides,glycerol or polyglycerol esters or ethers of fatty acids of natural origin and acyl lactylates, in particular with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol, chosen from capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and their mixture, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, the mixture of polyglyceryl-4 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, the mixture of polyglyceryl-10 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and the mixture glyceryl caprylate and caprate, sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate,sodium lauroyl lactylate and the mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate, possibly a colorant, possibly a perfume, at least one cosmetic active ingredient.,

[0027] Organic acid, whose cosmetic properties are previously established, is an acid present in the cosmetic composition due to their formulation aiming at a cosmetic property. An organic acid such as lactic acid, with humectant or exfoliating properties, or sebacic acid, with sebum-regulating or antibacterial properties, can be cited as examples.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in the form of a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, in particular from 80 to 90%, preferably greater than 95%, said cosmetic composition consisting of or comprising a hydrophilic phase consisting of or comprising o an aqueous phase representing from 15 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 30 to 40%, o optionally a cosmetic mineral or organic salt in a proportion of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 8 to 16%, preferably said salt comes from the neutralization of an organic acid with previously established cosmetic properties o optionally ethanol in a proportion of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 8 to 16%,o free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, in liquid form chosen from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, in particular free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, in liquid form comprising from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, a lipophilic phase consisting of or comprising o an oily phase representing from 10 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, o a natural oil or a mixture of natural oils, chosen from:,

[0029] ■ a vegetable oil,

[0030] ■ medium-chain triglycerides containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils),

[0031] ■ monoglycerides or diglycerides from plant extracts

[0032] ■ an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin, in particular amyl oleate, isoamyl oleate, ethyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl laurate, diethylsebacate, o an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular chosen from terpenes, squalene and squalane, preferably comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms o free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of silicone and mineral oil relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, a microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase, comprising o one or more surfactants representing from 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the composition cosmetic, preferably 5 to 10%, chosen from capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and their mixture, polyglyceryl-4 laurate,polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, mixture of polyglyceryl-4 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, mixture of polyglyceryl-10 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and mixture of glyceryl caprylate and caprate, sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate, optionally a colorant, optionally a perfume, at least one cosmetic active ingredient.,

[0033] The composition according to the invention is a thermodynamically stable three-phase system in the form of three visually distinct liquid layers. The composition according to the invention consists of a hydrophilic liquid phase and a lipophilic liquid phase, immiscible with each other, in which is created using all the surfactants an intermediate liquid phase consisting of a microemulsion of said lipophilic and hydrophilic phases comprising one or more surfactants, i.e. a system called Winsor III.

[0034] The inventors have surprisingly noted the possibility of obtaining such Winsor III type three-phase systems, namely thermodynamically stable, based solely or mainly on a selection of ingredients of natural origin without the use of silicone-based compounds, mineral oil or liquid polyols, in particular polyethylene glycols, usually necessary, as described in application US2003 / 0161852.

[0035] The compositions of the invention have the advantage that one of its components can itself be a cosmetic active ingredient and that the cosmetic active ingredients can be introduced whatever their affinity in order to be distributed between the hydrophilic phase, the lipophilic phase or the central microemulsion, in general with a maximum of solubility which is achieved in Winsor III type systems.

[0036] Advantageously, the constituents of the composition such as oil or salt are not only structural elements of the microemulsion, but can also have a cosmetic effect such as emollient properties.

[0037] In addition, the properties of the different constituents in the microemulsion are different from those of the pure constituents in liquid form due to a different molecular environment. For example, in the structuring of a microemulsion, the oil will have a different sensoriality from an oil applied in pure form directly to the skin.

[0038] In a particular embodiment, said active ingredient is one of the constituents of the composition according to the invention.

[0039] The solutions of the invention present a more advantageous sensory profile than the pure oil used in the lipophilic phase as demonstrated in examples 9 to 13 for the descriptions: spreading, fat, stickiness, softness and absorption, according to the sensory tests carried out with the “EBItouch®” kit.

[0040] By "hydrophilic phase" is meant a liquid phase of the composition comprising water and water-soluble compounds.

[0041] By "aqueous phase" we mean a phase consisting of water.

[0042] The 15-50% range includes the following ranges: 15-20%; 20-25%; 25-30%; 30-35%; 35-40%; 40-45%; 45-50%.

[0043] The 5-20% range includes the following ranges: 5-10%; 10-15%; 15-20%.

[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic mineral or organic salt" means a salt consisting of a cation and an inorganic and / or organic anion, cosmetically acceptable resulting from the neutralization of an organic acid present in the cosmetic composition. For example, said neutralized organic acid is lactic acid, pidolic acid, organic acids of the fruit acid type, malic acid, maleic acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, and their salts.

[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means polyalcohols comprising glycols, or polyoses or glycerol, such as 1,2 glycols, 1,3 or 1,4 diols, in liquid form at atmospheric pressure and at room temperature (20-15°C) serving as a humectant miscible in water. The polyols consist of a linear or branched alkyl chain of 3 to 12 carbon atoms comprising at least two -OH groups. The polyols used as humectants which can be introduced into cosmetic products are known to those skilled in the art and listed in manuals for cosmetics. For example, ethylene glycol and diethylene glycol are excluded from the polyols which can be used in cosmetics due to their toxicity.

[0046] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition is free of polyethylene glycols or comprises less than 1% by mass of polyethylene glycols.

[0047] By "comprising less than 1% by mass" is meant comprising less than 1% by total mass of the composition, in particular comprising less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%.

[0048] By "lipophilic phase" is meant a liquid phase of the composition comprising oil or a mixture of oils miscible with each other and compounds miscible in said oil or said mixture of oils.

[0049] By "oil" we mean a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0050] By "oily phase" we mean a phase consisting of an oil or a mixture of oils miscible with each other.

[0051] By "natural oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure of natural origin, i.e. as it is in nature and untreated, which may be of biotechnological or vegetable origin, or a fatty substance comprising a part of natural origin.

[0052] By “vegetable oil” we mean an oil as defined above of vegetable origin.

[0053] By "emollient" we mean a substance which, while allowing gas exchange, limits the natural evaporation of interstitial water. Emollients, in particular emollients of natural origin, belong to classes of cosmetic compounds well known to those skilled in the art in the field of cosmetic formulation.

[0054] By "alkane or alkene of natural origin" is meant a liquid alkane or alkene at atmospheric temperature and pressure of natural origin, i.e. as is in nature, untreated and not derived from petrochemicals, which may be of biotechnological or plant origin, such as terpenes, squalene and squalane. By "silicone" is meant polydimethylsiloxanes and silicone oils such as dimethicone, dimethiconol, silicone crosslinked polymers, silicone copolymers and polysiloxanes or organically modified e.g. cetyl dimethicone etc.

[0055] By "mineral oil" we mean an oil as defined above of mineral origin, namely a liquid mixture resulting from the distillation of certain fossil fuels (coal, petroleum, coal, oil shale, etc.), composed mainly of alkane comprising 15 to 40 carbon atoms, to be distinguished from vegetable and animal oils. Mineral oils in cosmetics are, for example, isododecane and isohexadecane.

[0056] The 10-50% range includes the following ranges: 10-15%; 15-20%; 20-25%; 25-30%; 30-35%; 35-40%; 40-45%; 45-50%.

[0057] It is understood that the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase are immiscible with each other in said composition at atmospheric temperature and pressure.

[0058] The term "emulsion" means a phase in the form of a heterogeneous mixture comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase immiscible with each other at room temperature (15-30°C) and atmospheric pressure, in which one of the two phases, called the dispersed phase, is present in the form of droplets in the other phase, called the continuous phase. Macroscopic emulsions are not thermodynamically stable systems.

[0059] A microemulsion is a thermodynamically stable emulsion or dispersion of two immiscible liquid phases, stabilized by one or more surfactants, in a bicontinuous intermediate phase between the two phases. A microemulsion does not exhibit a particle size at the molecular level, but is more illustrated as a moving mass that mixes or disentangles the immiscible phases ultra-rapidly.

[0060] These emulsions stabilized by surfactants are described by PA Winsor (Chem. Rev. 1968, 68, 1, 1-40)

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the surfactant is chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol of fatty acid of natural origin and acyl lactylates, with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase comprises one or more surfactants chosen from: capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and their mixture, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, the mixture of polyglyceryl-4 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, the mixture of polyglyceryl-10 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and the mixture of caprylate and caprate. glyceryl, sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate,sodium lauroyl lactylate and the mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate.,

[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said composition comprises from 75% to 100%, in particular from 80 to 90%, preferably from 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition of natural origin.

[0064] It is understood that the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains ingredients of natural origin representing from 75 to 100% by mass of the total mass of said composition.

[0065] By "ingredient of natural origin" is meant an ingredient composed of at least one raw material of natural origin, i.e. as such in nature and untreated, or treated by physical and / or chemical processes authorized according to the reference of the international standard ISO 16 128 (part 1), indicating the guidelines relating to the technical definitions and criteria applicable to natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products.

[0066] The 75-100% range includes the following ranges: 75-80%; 80-85%; 85-90%; 90-95%; 95-100%.

[0067] The 95-100% range includes the following ranges: 95-96%; 96-97%; 97-98%; 98-99%; 99-100%.

[0068] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, of which 75% to 100%, in particular 80 to 90%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin according to international standard ISO 16 128. According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said composition has a naturalness index of 0.95 to 1.0.

[0069] The term "naturalness index" means an index determined according to ISO 16128 (part 2), which codifies the calculations and indices of ingredients and products for determining the naturalness of a cosmetic composition.

[0070] ISO 16128 provides an international definition of naturalness, setting guidelines for natural and organic cosmetics and their ingredients. This standard provides a calculation model for establishing the percentage of ingredients of natural origin, and therefore the naturalness index or percentage of naturalness, of a cosmetic composition based on the naturalness indices of the raw materials making up the said composition.

[0071] The calculation of the naturalness index of a cosmetic ingredient is generally established and communicated by the supplier of the raw material.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above in which said composition is in the form of a Winsor III type system.

[0073] Generally, emulsified mixtures of aqueous solutions and liquid oils can be classified into 4 categories (Bouton et al. Langmuir. 2010, Vol 26, Num 11, pp 7962-7970, 9 p): the Winsor I type system designates a two-phase system comprising a lower phase which is an oil-in-water (o / w) microemulsion in which the surfactant is present, and an upper oily phase comprising oil; the Winsor II type system designates a two-phase system comprising an upper phase which is a water-in-oil (w / o) microemulsion in which the surfactant is present, and a lower aqueous phase comprising excess water; The Winsor III type system is a three-phase system comprising an upper oil phase comprising excess oil, a lower aqueous phase comprising excess water, and an intermediate phase which is a microemulsion consisting of water, oil and surfactant.The microemulsion is in equilibrium with both the aqueous phase and the oily phase. This microemulsion is formed of intertwined sheets of aqueous phase and organic phase, without micelles or a predominant continuous phase. In other words, the microemulsion is said to be bicontinuous and the number of associations of surfactant molecules is made infinite so that both the aqueous phase and the oily phase have a continuous structure; the Winsor IV type system, finally, can be considered as a Winsor III without excess aqueous phase or oily phase: it is a single-phase system consisting of a microemulsion alone.

[0074] The Winsor III type system has the following advantages: low interfacial tension of the microemulsion, of the order of 10' 2 at 10' 5N / m maximum solubility of the system constituents achieved with the presence of a microemulsion in the Winsor III type system, transparent liquid phases.

[0075] Thus, the compositions according to the invention exhibit, when applying the cosmetic active ingredient, performance in terms of comfort, ease of application and penetration into the skin and in terms of sensoriality.

[0076] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic composition is capable of forming a single homogeneous phase in the form of an emulsion for at least a period of 30 seconds, in particular from 30 seconds to 2 hours, preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, after stirring under conditions allowing the emulsification of said composition and its homogeneous spreading on the skin, hair or nails of the consumer.

[0077] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic composition forms a single homogeneous phase in the form of an emulsion for at least a period of 30 seconds, in particular from 30 seconds to 2 hours, preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, after stirring under conditions allowing emulsification and its homogeneous spreading on the skin, hair or nails of the consumer.

[0078] The duration or period of "at least a period of 30 seconds" includes the ranges of periods: from 30 seconds to 24 hours, from 30 seconds to 12 hours, from 30 seconds to 6 hours, from 30 seconds to 2 hours, from 30 seconds to 1 hour, from 30 seconds to 45 minutes, from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, from 30 seconds to 5 minutes, from 30 seconds to 2 minutes. Advantageously, said period of at least 30 seconds, in particular from 30 seconds to 2 hours, preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, corresponds to the time of application of the composition in the form of said homogeneous phase by the user.

[0079] By "stirring under conditions permitting emulsification" is meant manual stirring by the user under conditions of room temperature (15-30°C) and atmospheric pressure, allowing the dispersion of the hydrophilic and lipid phases into an emulsion.

[0080] It is understood that said emulsion in the form of a homogeneous phase is temporary and is not "stable" in the kinetic and thermodynamic sense, since after less than 24 hours, said emulsion consisting of a homogeneous phase, is transformed by phenomena of coalescence and ripening to return to an initial state before stirring which is thermodynamically stable, in the form of a Winsor III type three-phase system.

[0081] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the aqueous phase represents from 30 to 40% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0082] The 30-40% range includes the following ranges: 30-32%; 32-34%; 34-36%; 36-38%; 38-40%.

[0083] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said hydrophilic phase further comprises o a cosmetic mineral or organic salt in an amount of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt is derived from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties are previously established, and o ethanol in an amount of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%.

[0084] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said hydrophilic phase further comprises o a cosmetic mineral or organic salt in an amount of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt is derived from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties are previously established, o and is free of ethanol. According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said hydrophilic phase further comprises o ethanol in an amount of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16% o and is free of a cosmetic mineral or organic salt.

[0085] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said hydrophilic phase is free of a cosmetic mineral or organic salt and is free of ethanol.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, comprising a cosmetic mineral or organic salt in an amount of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0087] The 1 to 20% range includes the following ranges: 1 to 5%; 5 to 10%; 10 to 15%; 15 to 20%.

[0088] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, comprising a cosmetic mineral or organic salt in amounts of 8 to 16% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0089] The 8-16% range includes the following ranges: 8-9%; 9-10%; 10-11%; 11-12%; 12-13%; 13-14%; 14-15%; 15-16%.

[0090] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic mineral or organic salt results from the neutralization of an organic acid present in cosmetic products, in particular lactic acid, pidolic acid, organic acids of fruit acid type, malic acid, maleic acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, or an amino acid, preferably said salt being chosen from sodium salts, in particular sodium hydroxide, potassium salts, trace elements such as copper, iron, zinc, magnesium and manganese salts.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic mineral salt is chosen from sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and other suitable mineral salts of sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, and combinations thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic salt is chosen from potassium lactate, potassium gluconate and trisodium ethylenediamin disuccinate.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic mineral or organic salt has the function of saturating the aqueous phase, in order to increase the hydrophobic character of said surfactant. Thus, said surfactant, having a more hydrophobic character, will have a greater affinity with the oily phase and will be repelled in the oil.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, comprising ethanol in amounts of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, comprising ethanol in an amount of 8 to 16% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, said composition being free of glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.

[0096] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the oily phase represents from 20 to 35% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said natural oil or mixture of natural oils is chosen from: o a vegetable oil, o medium-chain triglycerides comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils), o monoglycerides or diglycerides of plant extract o an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin, in particular amyl oleate, isoamyl oleate, ethyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl laurate, diethylsebacate, o an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular chosen from terpenes, squalene and squalane, in particular comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms. According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above,in which the vegetable oil is chosen from: caprylic and capric acid triglycerides, caprylic, capric (also known as "MCT oil"), myristic and stearic acid triglycerides (INCI name: Caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic Triglyceride), triethylhexanoin, argan oil (INCI name: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil), jojoba oil (INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), shea oil (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Oil), sweet almond oil (INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), coconut oil (INCI name: Cocos Nucifera Oil), hydrogenated coconut oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coconut Oil), rosehip oil (INCI name: Rosa Canina Seed Oil), castor oil (INCI name: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), Carrot oil macerate (INCI name: Daucus Carota Sativa Rool Extract),carrot seed oil (INCI name: Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil), apricot kernel oil (INCI name: Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil), avocado oil (INCI name: Persea Gratissima Oil), karanja seed oil (INCI name: Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil), daisy oil macerate, camellia oil, including Japanese camellia seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Japonica Seed Oil), Camellia Kissi seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Kissi Seed Oil), monoi oil, broccoli oil (INCI name: Brassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil), raspberry seed oil (INCI name: Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil), sea buckthorn oil (INCI name: Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil), seed oil prickly pear (INCI name: Opuntia Ficus-indica Seed Oil), blackcurrant seed oil (INCI name: Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil), blackberry oil, arnica macerate (INCI name: Arnica Montana Flower Extract), Calophyllum Inophyllum oil,St. John's wort oily macerate, wheat germ oil (INCI name: Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil), calendula oily macerate, black cumin oil (INCI name: Nigella Sativa Seed Oil), perilla seed oil (INCI name: Perilla Ocymoides Seed Oil), borage seed oil (INCI name: Borago Officinalis Seed Oil), neem oil (INCI name: Azadirachta Indica Seed Oil), evening primrose oil (INCI name: Oenothera Biennis Oil), meadowsweet oily macerate, pumpkin seed oil (INCI name: Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil), hazelnut oil (INCI name: Corylus avellana Seed Oil), sesame seed oil (INCI name: Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil), hemp seed oil (INCI name: Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil), Chia vegetable oil, Camelina oil (INCI name: Camelina Sativa Seed Oil), Inca Inchi oil (INCI name: Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil), linseed oil (INCI name: Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil),Macadamia nut oil (INCI name: Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil), grape seed oil (INCI name: Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil), safflower seed oil (INCI name: Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil), tricaprylin (or triacylglycerol), tiger nut oil (INCI name: Cyperus Esculentus Root Oil), mustard oil (INCI name: Brassica Juncea Seed Oil), plum oil (INCI name: Prunus Domestica Seed Oil), baobab oil (INCI name: Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil), meadowfoam seed oil (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil), rosehip oil (INCI name: Rosa Canina Fruit Oil), soybean oil (INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil), sunflower seed oil (INCI name: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil), tribehenin (INCI name: tribehenin), triisostearin (INCI name: triisostearin), rice bran oil (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil),Rice germ oil (INCI name: Oryza Sativa Germ Oil), hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), chuchinois seed oil (INCI name: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil), green tea seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil), Moringa seed oil (INCI name: Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil), canola oil (INCI name: Canola Oil), tea seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil), triheptanoin (INCI name: Triheptanoin), vanilla oil (INCI name: Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil), canola oil and phytosterol glycerides (INCI name: Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides), annatto oil (INCI name: Roucou (Bixa orellana) Oil), and mixtures thereof.,

[0098] Additionally or alternatively, non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, babassu oil, brazil nut oil, buriti oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, ajwain oil, angelica root oil, anise oil, balsamic oil, basil oil, bergamot oil, black pepper oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, lemongrass oil, sage clary, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander, mint oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, cypress, cypriol, murraya leaf, davana oil, dill oil, elecampane, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil,fir, frankincense oil, galangal, pelargonium oil, ginger oil, goldenrod, grapefruit oil, henna oil, helichrysum, horseradish oil, hyssop, Idaho tansy, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, Indian verbena, marjoram, tea tree, lemon balm oil, mountain savory, mugwort oil, myrrh oil, myrtle, neroli, nutmeg, orange oil, oregano oil, iris oil, palo santo, parsley oil, patchouli oil, pennyroyal oil, mint oil pepper, petitgrain bigarade, pine oil, ravensara, red juniper, roman chamomile, rose oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras oil, savory oil, schizandra oil, spikenard, spruce, tangerine, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, tsuga oil,turmeric, valerian, vetiver oil, giant thuja, wintergreen, yarrow oil, bay laurel oil, ylang-ylang, zedoary oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, alfalfa oil, corn germ oil, passionflower oil, poppy seed oil, rye oil, sysymbrium oil, syzigium aromaticum oil.,

[0099] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the natural oil is chosen from:

[0100] - medium-chain triglycerides containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils),

[0101] - monoglycerides or diglycerides of plant extracts such as coco glyceride

[0102] - esters of natural origin such as amyl oleate, isoamyl oleate, ethyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl laurate, diethyl sebacate,

[0103] - an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular chosen from terpenes, squalene and squalane, preferably comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0104] Advantageously, triglycerides comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms, called MCT oils, are chosen from: caprylic triglyceride, capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride, lauric triglyceride and their mixture.

[0105] Advantageously, the monoglycerides or diglycerides of plant extracts are chosen from: 1,2 diacyl glycerol, 1-mono acyl glycerol; 2-monoacyl glycerol, 1,3-diacyl glycerol and their mixture.

[0106] Esters of natural origin are preferred for the invention, given their stability, ease of formulation, and good consumer acceptance. These may be, but are not limited to, isopropyl isostearate, ceteraryl ethylhexanoate, tridecyl trimellitate, triethylhexyl trimellitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, lauryl lactate, cetyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl behenate, isododecylethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, diisooctyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, hexyl laurate, coco-caprylate / caprate, cetearyl isononanoate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl neopentanoate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, oleyl lactate, oleyl oleate,pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl ethylhexanoate, caprylyl caprylate / caprate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, cetyl acetate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, decyl cocoate, diethylhexyl carbonate, diethylhexyl maleate, diisostearyl malate, ethylhexyl cocoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl stearate, amyl oléate, amyl laurate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl cocoate, isoamyl laurate, isoamyl oléate, isopropyl stearate, isostearyl avocadate, isostearyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl erucate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, oleyl erucate, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, propanediol dicaprylate, propanediol dicaprylate / caprate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / caprate, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate,triisocetyl trilinoleate, trioctyldodecyl citrate.,

[0107] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the alkane of natural origin is chosen from: alkanes of plant origin such as CETIOL® Ultimate from BASF (INCI name: Undecane (and) Tridecane), coconut alkanes, alkanes from EMOGREEEN™ products from SEPPIC (INCI name: C15-19 Alkane).

[0108] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the alkane of natural origin comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0109] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the surfactant(s) represents 5 to 10% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the alkylglucosides are chosen from:

[0111] - Arachidyl glucoside (I NCI name: Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside), for example MONTANOV™ 202 from Seppic,

[0112] - Ascorbyl glycoside

[0113] - 08-016 alkyl glucosides (INCI name: 010-16 Alkyl Glucoside), for example in SpecSufc™ products from SpecChem Industry, - C12-C18 alkyl glucosides (INCI name: C12-18 Alkyl Glucoside), for example present in Aecosoft® products from AE Chemie,

[0114] - C12-C20 alkyl glucosides (INCI name: C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside), for example in the product MONTANOVTM from Seppic,

[0115] - caprylyl glucoside (INCI name: Caprylyl Glucoside), for example present in the cosmetic ingredients AC8 (Alkyl polyglucoside) from SOHO ANECO Chemicals, Sucraph™ AG-8 from NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL, and TP APG0810H or TP APG0810L from Tinphy New Material,

[0116] - mixtures of caprylyl glucoside and Capryl glucoside (INCI name: Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside) for example present in the cosmetic ingredients of the CosVivet APG range from Brenntag Specialties (EMEA),

[0117] - cerearyl glucoside (INCI name: Cetearyl Glucoside),

[0118] - coco-glucoside (INCI name: Coco-Glucoside),

[0119] - decyl glucoside (INCI name: Decyl Glucoside), for example present in the cosmetic ingredients of the CosVivet APG range from Brenntag Specialties (EMEA),

[0120] - disodium coco-glucoside citrate (INCI name: Disocium Coco-Glucoside Citrate),

[0121] - gallyl glucoside (INCI name: Gallyl Glucoside),

[0122] - glyceryl glucoside (INCI name: Glyceryl Glucoside),

[0123] - lauryl gucoside (INCI name: Lauryl Glucoside),

[0124] - maltooligosyl glucoside (INCI name: Maltooligosyl Glucoside),

[0125] - myristyl glucoside (INCI name: Myristyl Glucoside),

[0126] - raspberryketone glucoside (INCI name: Raspberryketone glucoside), for example present in EcoLite™ RKG from Ecochem.

[0127] Advantageously, said alkylglucosides are preferably chosen from capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and their mixture.

[0128] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the fatty acid glycerol or polyglycerol esters are chosen from: polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl undecylenate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, and mixtures thereof;preferably polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, mixture of polyglyceryl-4 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, mixture of polyglyceryl-10 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and mixture of glyceryl caprylate and caprate.;

[0129] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the glycerol or polyglycerol fatty acid ether is dodecane diglycerol ether.

[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the acyl lactylates are chosen from: acyllactylates comprising from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular behenoyllactylates, stearoyl lactylates, isostearoyl lactylates, caproyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylates and their mixture, preferably sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, isostearoyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and the mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate.

[0131] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, further comprising an oil-soluble and / or water-soluble colorant, preferably chosen from a natural colorant.

[0132] By way of non-limiting example, the colorant is: betanin (INCI name: Beetroot Red), anthocyanins (INCI name: Anthocyanins), carrot extract (INCI name: Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract), sweet potato extract (INCI name: Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract). According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, further comprising a perfume, preferably chosen from a natural perfume such as essential oils or any other molecule obtained by biotechnology.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said at least one cosmetic active ingredient is chosen from:

[0134] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (e.g. retinyl palmitate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (such as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopheryl acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives);

[0135] - compounds showing a skin lightening or depigmenting action such as arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone;

[0136] - compounds showing a soothing action;

[0137] - anti-inflammatory or anti-allergic agents;

[0138] - compounds showing a moisturizing action such as plant extracts rich in polyphenols such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts;

[0139] - anti-aging and anti-wrinkle active ingredients;

[0140] - anti-dandruff agents;

[0141] - anti-acne agents;

[0142] - superfatting agents;

[0143] - compounds showing a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, amino acids; peptides; total protein hydrolysates; soy extracts, wheat extracts;

[0144] - plant extracts, such as plant extracts rich in tannins, isoflavones or terpenes; extracts of freshwater or marine algae; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids;

[0145] - compounds showing antimicrobial action or purifying action,

[0146] - compounds showing an energizing or stimulating property,

[0147] - antioxidants and anti-photo-aging active ingredients;

[0148] - natural polymers such as xanthan, starch, inulin, or any other polymer obtained by biotechnology which are likely to have intrinsic properties and / or allow a slowing down of the phase separation after re-emulsification of the microemulsion.

[0149] - sunscreens; - active ingredients that protect the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction;

[0150] - active ingredients increasing the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans;

[0151] - active ingredients that act favorably on chemical cellular communication such as cytokines or physical ones such as integrins;

[0152] - active ingredients creating a sensation of “heating” on the skin such as activators of skin microcirculation (such as nicotinic acid derivatives) or products creating a sensation of “coolness” on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives);

[0153] - active ingredients that improve skin microcirculation, for example venotonics;

[0154] - draining active ingredients;

[0155] - decongestant active ingredients such as ginko biloba extracts,

[0156] - tanning or browning agents for the skin,

[0157] - agents known for their action of facilitating and / or accelerating the tanning and / or browning of human skin, and / or for their action of coloring human skin, for example caratenoids (and more particularly beta carotene and gamma carotene), tyrosine and / or its derivatives,

[0158] - agents intended for the treatment of hair and / or body hair, for example agents protecting melanocytes of the hair follicle, intended to protect said melanocytes against cytotoxic agents responsible for the senescence and / or apoptosis of said melanocytes, or for example agents promoting the regrowth of hair and / or body hair or for example anti-hair loss agents,

[0159] - agents that fight against glycation,

[0160] - agents stimulating the synthesis of collagen or elastin or preventing their degradation,

[0161] - agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans or proteoglycans or preventing their degradation, anti-radical or anti-pollution agents, detoxifying agents, desquamating agents, soothing and / or anti-irritant agents, astringent agents,

[0162] - and their mixtures.

[0163] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in the form of a single homogeneous phase consisting of an emulsion which is stable for at least a period of 30 seconds after stirring under conditions allowing the emulsification of said composition of the invention as defined above.

[0164] Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a single homogeneous phase consisting of an emulsion stable for at least a period of 30 seconds, of which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, said cosmetic composition consisting of or comprising: an aqueous phase o representing from 15 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 30 to 40% o optionally a cosmetic mineral or organic salt in a proportion of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 8 to 16%, preferably said salt results from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties are previously established, o optionally ethanol in a proportion of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 8 to 16%,o free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, in liquid form chosen from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, in particular free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, in liquid form comprising from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and polyethylene glycols, an oily phase o representing from 10 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 20 to 35%, o an oil or a mixture of natural oils, in particular chosen from:,

[0165] ■ a vegetable oil,

[0166] ■ medium-chain triglycerides containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils),

[0167] ■ monoglycerides or diglycerides from plant extracts

[0168] ■ a naturally occurring emollient ester, preferably a naturally occurring fatty acid ester,

[0169] ■ an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular terpenes, squalane and squalene, in particular comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, o free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of silicone and mineral oil relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, one or more surfactants o representing from 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 5 to 10%, chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycetol or polyglycerol of fatty acid of natural origin and acyl lactylates, preferably with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol, in particular chosen from capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and their mixture, laurate of polyglyceryl-4, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate,the mixture of polyglyceryl-4 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, the mixture of polyglyceryl-10 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and the mixture of glyceryl caprylate and caprate, sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and the mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate, optionally a colorant, optionally a perfume, at least one cosmetic active ingredient, said emulsion being of the oil-in-water type or of the water-in-oil type.,

[0170] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said composition comprises from 75% to 100%, in particular from 80 to 90%, preferably from 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin according to standard ISO 16128.

[0171] Another subject of the present invention relates to a method for formulating a cosmetic composition in the form of a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75%, in particular 80 to 90%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, comprising the following steps: a) A step of preparing an equimass mixture of an aqueous phase (50% w / w) and an oily phase (50% w / w) comprising neither surfactant, nor salt, nor ethanol, b) a step of forming an emulsion of the mixture by adding a surfactant, in particular 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the composition, until a white emulsion of the mixture is obtained, c) a step of adding a second surfactant, called cosurfactant, and / or ethanol and / or salt until demixing of said white emulsion and obtaining of a Winsor I, II type composition,or III at terrestrial ambient temperature and preferably between 15 and 30 degrees Celsius d) a visual step of determining the type of Winsor I, II or III composition obtained e1) when a Winsor I type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of the oil phase, a step of repeating steps b, c and d with a surfactant of hydrophilic character until a Winsor III type composition is obtained e2) when a Winsor II type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of water, a step of repeating steps b, c and d with a surfactant of lipophilic character until a Winsor III type composition is obtained, e3) when a Winsor III type composition is obtained, optionally a step of adjusting the volumes of the different phases,f) a step of determining the contents of the constituents of said Winsor III type composition by mass relative to the total mass of the composition in order to obtain the formulation of a cosmetic composition in the form of a thermodynamically stable three-phase system.,

[0172] In step a), the use of an equimass ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase makes it possible not to influence the surfactant system towards one or the other of said phases.

[0173] In step b), the addition of the surfactant makes it possible to obtain said white emulsion which is made up of micelles (which interact with visible light (by absorption) and which makes the system opalescent or opaque).

[0174] In step c), the addition of a second surfactant, salts or ethanol makes it possible to break said rigid micellar associations in order to fluidify the water / oil / surfactant interface to form said microemulsion.

[0175] Advantageously in step c) said second surfactant may be identical to the surfactant used in step b).

[0176] The inventors have surprisingly found the possibility of obtaining the formulation of a Winsor III type three-phase liquid composition with ingredients solely or predominantly of natural origin, without first drawing up the phase diagram of the constituents, and starting from an equimass mixture of the aqueous phase and the oily phase. Indeed, conventionally, to determine the limits of narrow concentration zones of the species in which such a three-phase system is present, it is necessary to establish the phase diagram or complex calculations from the characteristics and physicochemical properties of all the ingredients constituting the system.

[0177] Moreover, unexpectedly, the inventors observed that once the composition is fixed by the thermodynamics of the stable three-phase system, the introduction of the active principle will generally have a weak influence on the stability of the system and in a remediable way since in the latter its solubility is in principle maximum.

[0178] This method according to the invention for formulating a cosmetic composition allows a significant and advantageous saving of time and resources.

[0179] It is known to those skilled in the art that surfactants are amphiphilic but can be conventionally characterized by the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB). Each surfactant is rated on a scale from 0 to 20 according to their solubility in water.

[0180] For the purposes of the invention, the term “surfactant of lipophilic character” means a surfactant having an HLB index of 0 to 9.

[0181] For the purposes of the invention, the term “surfactant of hydrophilic character” means a surfactant having an HLB index of 11 to 20.

[0182] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, for formulating a cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above in the form of a triphasic system.

[0183] Another subject of the present invention relates to a method for formulating a cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above, in the form of a triphasic system, in particular in the form of a Winsor III type system, comprising the following steps: a) A step of preparing an equimass mixture of an aqueous phase (50% w / w) and an oily phase (50% w / w) comprising neither surfactant, nor salt, nor ethanol, b) a step of forming an emulsion of the mixture by adding a surfactant, in particular from 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the composition, until a white emulsion of the mixture is obtained, c) a step of adding a second surfactant, called cosurfactant, and / or ethanol and / or salt until demixing of said white emulsion and obtaining a composition of Winsor I, II, or III type, d) a step of determining the type of Winsor I, II or III composition obtained e1) when a Winsor I type composition is obtained,indicating an excess of the oil phase, a step of repeating steps b, c and d with a surfactant of hydrophilic character until a Winsor III type composition is obtained e2) when a Winsor II type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of water, a step of repeating steps b, c and d with a surfactant of lipophilic character until a Winsor III type composition is obtained, e3) when a Winsor III type composition is obtained, optionally a step of adjusting the volumes of the different phases, f) a step of determining the contents of the constituents of said Winsor III type composition by mass relative to the total mass of the composition in order to obtain the formulation of a cosmetic composition in the form of a thermodynamically stable three-phase system.,

[0184] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, in which in step a) the aqueous phase is free from or comprises less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form chosen from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, in particular free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form, comprising from 3 to 12 carbon atoms and polyethylene glycols.

[0185] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, in which in step a) the oily phase consists of a compound or a mixture of compounds chosen from:

[0186] - a vegetable oil,

[0187] - medium-chain triglycerides containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils),

[0188] - monoglycerides or diglycerides from plant extracts,

[0189] - an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin, - an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular terpenes, squalene, preferably comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0190] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, in which the surfactant(s) are chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol of fatty acid of natural origin and acyl lactylates, in particular with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol.

[0191] Preferably selected from capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and mixture thereof, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, mixture of polyglyceryl-4 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, mixture of polyglyceryl-10 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and mixture of glyceryl caprylate and caprate, sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, caproyl sodium lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and the mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate,

[0192] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, in which said salt is chosen from: sodium salts, in particular sodium hydroxide, potassium salts, trace elements such as copper, iron, zinc, magnesium and manganese salts, preferably chosen from: sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and other suitable mineral salts of sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, and combinations thereof.

[0193] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, in which the total amount of salt added is from 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 8 to 16%.

[0194] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, in which the total amount of ethanol added is from 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the composition, preferably from 8 to 16%. Optionally, the addition of ethanol is not necessary if the natural balance of the aqueous phase / oil phase / surfactant system allows it.

[0195] Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a triphasic system, in particular a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, prepared according to the formulation determined according to the method as defined above for formulating a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0196] Another subject of the present invention relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above, of which at least 75%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin, comprising a step of mixing the constituents of the formulation determined according to the method according to the invention to formulate a cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0197] Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a triphasic system, in particular a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, capable of being obtained by the process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention, as defined above.

[0198] EXAMPLES AND FIGURES

[0199] Figures

[0200] Figure 1 represents an illustrative diagram of the method for formulating a cosmetic composition in the form of a Winsor III type system.

[0201] Figure 2 represents the comparative analysis diagram of the sensory profiles of pure olive oil and a cosmetic composition based on olive oil formulated in Winsor III, according to the sensory tests on skin carried out with the “EBItouch®” kit for the descriptors: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0202] Figure 3 represents the comparative analysis diagram of the sensory profiles of the cosmetic ingredient Oxismooth® CP and a cosmetic composition formulated in Winsor Ill based on Oxismooth® CP, according to the sensory tests on skin with the “EBItouch®” kit for the descriptors: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0203] Figure 4 represents the comparative analysis diagram of the sensory profiles of the cosmetic ingredient Vegelight™ Silk and a cosmetic composition formulated in Winsor III based on Vegelight™ Silk, according to the sensory tests on skin with the “EBItouch®” kit for the descriptors: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0204] Figure 5 represents the comparative analysis diagram of the sensory profiles of isopropyl myristate (IPM) and a cosmetic composition formulated in Winsor III based on isopropyl myristate, according to the sensory tests on skin with the “EBItouch®” kit for the descriptors: spreadability, greasiness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0205] Examples

[0206] Example 1: Determining how to formulate a Winsor III type composition

[0207] Description of the general preparation method using the example in Figure 1.

[0208] Step a)

[0209] In a tube, the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the hydrophilic ingredients, ensuring that the hydrophilic ingredients are soluble when added together in water. A hydrophilic dye is added to it.

[0210] In a second tube, the oil phase is prepared by mixing the lipophilic ingredients, ensuring that the lipophilic ingredients are soluble when added together into the oil phase.

[0211] In each of the two tubes, the two phases, oily and aqueous, are homogeneous and translucent (see photo (1)). The aqueous phase is colored in the example in figure 1 in order to differentiate the different phases.

[0212] The two phases are introduced into a tube (photo (2)).

[0213] In order not to influence the surfactant system towards the aqueous phase or the oily phase, the phases are introduced with a 50 / 50 ratio by weight.

[0214] Step b)

[0215] The mixture is emulsified by adding the surfactant until the emulsion stabilizes, i.e. until the system no longer creates foam and becomes visually opaque (photo (3)). Step c)

[0216] In order to break up the micellar aggregates and make the water / oil / surfactant interface more fluid, a second surfactant, called co-surfactant, or a salt or ethanol is added and allows the microemulsion to be formed. The system becomes translucent, the viscosity drops sharply, and the separation of the phases appears with transparency of the media (photos (4)).

[0217] Step d)

[0218] A Winsor III type system is formed at equilibrium (photo (5)).

[0219] Example 2: Formulation of a Winsor III type 1 composition for the skin.

[0220] In a tube, an aqueous phase consisting of water and an oily phase consisting of isoamyl caprylate / caprate (Oxismooth® CP) were introduced in a 50 / 50 equimass ratio. The two phases were emulsified and surfactant, polyglyceryl 4 laurate, was added gram by gram until a single opaque white phase was formed, without foaming. Ethanol and magnesium sulfate salt were added gradually until phase separation and formation of a stable microemulsion were observed. Once the system was stabilized in a Winsor III type system, the list of the different ingredients allows the formulation of composition 1 to be established.

[0221] The list of ingredients is shown in Table 1.

[0222] Table 1 below lists the ingredients of prepared Winsor Type III Composition 1 intended for cosmetic application to the skin.

[0223] Table 1: Winsor III type composition 1 for skin Example 3: Preparation of a Winsor III type composition 1 for skin

[0224] Since a Winsor-type microemulsion is thermodynamically stable, the order in which the ingredients are incorporated is of little importance once the formulation has been determined. Generally, the salt is dissolved in water, then the ethanol is added, then the surfactant, and finally the oil.

[0225] Composition 1 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system were obtained. The naturalness index according to ISO 16 128 of Composition 1 of Winsor III type for skin reported in Table 1 is 1.0.

[0226] In fact, composition 1 was prepared only with cosmetic ingredients having an index of 1.0 according to standard ISO 16 128. Example 4: Composition 2 of Winsor III type for the skin

[0227] Table 2 below lists the ingredients of Winsor Type III Composition 2 intended for cosmetic application to the skin.

[0228] The calculated naturalness index of composition 2 is 0.995 according to ISO 16128.

[0229] Table 2: Winsor III Type 2 Composition for Skin

[0230] Composition 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system were obtained.

[0231] Example 5: Winsor III type composition 3 for skin

[0232] Table 3 below lists the ingredients of Winsor Type III Composition 3 intended for cosmetic application to the skin. Table 3: Winsor III Type 3 Composition for Skin

[0233] The calculated naturalness index of composition 3 is 0.986 according to ISO 16128. The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system were obtained. Example 6: Preparation of a Winsor III type composition 4 for hair

[0234] Table 4 below lists the ingredients of Winsor Type III Composition 4 intended for cosmetic application to hair.

[0235] The calculated naturalness index of composition 4 is 0.983 according to ISO 16128. The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system were obtained. Example 7: Preparation of a Winsor III type composition 5 for hair

[0236] Table 5 below lists the ingredients of Winsor Type III Composition 5 intended for cosmetic application to hair.

[0237] Table 5: Winsor III Type 5 Composition for Hair

[0238] The calculated naturalness index of composition 5 is 0.989 according to ISO 16128.

[0239] The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system were obtained. Example 8: Preparation of a Winsor III type composition 6 for hair

[0240] Table 6 below lists the ingredients of Winsor Type III Composition 6 intended for cosmetic application to hair. Table 6: Winsor III Type 6 Hair Colour

[0241] The calculated naturalness index of composition 6 is 0.993 according to ISO 16128.

[0242] The composition is prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system are obtained.

[0243] Example 9: Sensory Tests

[0244] Materials and methods

[0245] The sensory profile is determined by a sample of trained subjects and with the “EBItouch®” kit, marketed by the School of Industrial Biology (49 avenue des Genottes,

[0246] CS90009, 95895 Cergy-Pontoise, France). 18 people constitute the sample of trained subjects.

[0247] The "EBItouch®" kit has "terminals", which are reference products, for each sensory evaluation criterion, otherwise known as a "descriptor". For each of these descriptors, the kit has a "0" terminal, corresponding to the minimum sensation of the descriptor, and a "10" terminal corresponding to the maximum sensation of the descriptor.

[0248] Each subject applies the products to be evaluated (at least 2) on the anterior surface of his forearm, spreading approximately 0.02 grams of each product on a disc with a diameter of approximately 5 cm. All descriptors are evaluated simultaneously, during the following six stages: appearance of the product, taking of the product, application of the product, immediately after application of the product, one minute after application, two minutes after application.

[0249] The subjects' assessments undergo statistical processing to establish, for each descriptor, an average, corresponding to the "score" of the descriptor, a standard deviation, and the value of the "p" parameter.

[0250] The different descriptors analyzed in these tests are as follows:

[0251] Soapy effect (The product is placed between the thumb and index finger, and they are rubbed together, as if snapping the fingers. In the presence of this soapy effect, there is no mechanical resistance between them, the product facilitates the movement between the thumb and index finger. In the absence of this soapy effect, there is mechanical resistance between them, the product hinders the movement between the thumb and index finger.

[0252] Spread (If the product has spread, then between the 5 ème and the io èmerotation of the hand, there is no resistance to movement between the index finger and the skin. If the product does not present a spread, then between the 5 ème and the io ème rotation of the hand, there is resistance to movement between the index finger and the skin.)

[0253] Fat (By pinching the skin between the thumb and index finger, we assess the thickness of the product between the fingers (0 = the skin has no product.))

[0254] Stickiness (Assessed by repeatedly pressing and releasing the finger from the back of the hand. If this stickiness is present, then adhesion is felt between these two surfaces. If this stickiness is absent, then no adhesion is felt between these two surfaces). Softness (When passing the product over the back of the hand, a dry but slippery sensation is felt if the product is soft. No dry and slippery sensation is felt if the product is not soft).

[0255] - Absorption (In the case of a product that is absorbent, when passing the product over the skin, we see that the product disappears and that no product residue remains. In the case of a product that is not absorbent, when passing the product over the skin, a product residue is felt between the finger and the back of the hand).

[0256] Example 10: Olive oil

[0257] The sensory profile of an olive oil and the sensory profile of a solution according to the invention of Winsor III type based on olive oil were carried out according to the tests described above with the “EBItouch®” kit.

[0258] The diagram in Figure 2 represents the sensory profile of olive oil and that of a solution according to the invention of the Winsor III type based on olive oil, allowing a comparison between the two profiles for the following descriptions: spreadability, fat, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0259] Both solutions did not show any soapy effect.

[0260] In terms of absorption on the skin, spreading and softness, sensory tests indicate a beneficial feeling and a superior effect of the solution of the invention compared to simple olive oil. In particular, the product of the invention has an absorbent effect more than twice that of olive oil.

[0261] The olive oil solution has a greasy and sticky sensory effect superior to that of the solution of the invention.

[0262] The solution of the invention in the form of Winsor III based on olive oil loses in particular the sticky effect felt with pure olive oil.

[0263] For information, when it comes to cosmetic products, the consumer does not expect a soapy effect. He is looking for easy spreading, therefore high spreadability, a product that is not very greasy or not greasy, not very sticky or not sticky, good absorption (no residue) and good softness. The composition of the invention in the form of a Winsor III type triphasic solution meets the desired criteria cited above with more advantageous or new sensory properties compared to those of the pure oil used in the composition.

[0264] Example 11: Sensory profile of a Winsor III solution based on Oxismooth® CP

[0265] A composition according to the invention of Winsor III type based on Oxismooth® CP for the skin was prepared.

[0266] Table 7 below lists the ingredients of Winsor Type III Composition 7 based on Oxismooth® CP, intended for cosmetic application to the skin.

[0267] Table 7: Winsor III Type 7 Composition for Skin Based on Oxismooth® CP

[0268] The sensory tests described above with the “EBItouch®” kit were carried out on the cosmetic ingredient Oxismooth® CP and composition 7 according to the Winsor III type invention based on Oxismooth® CP.

[0269] Figure 3 represents on the same 5-entry diagram the sensory profile of the cosmetic ingredient Oxismooth® CP and that of the cosmetic composition 7 formulated in Winsor III based on Oxismooth® CP, allowing a comparison between the two profiles for the following descriptions: spreadability, fat, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0270] Both solutions did not show any stickiness. Although composition 7 contains 44% Oxismooth® CP, in terms of absorption felt on the skin, it has a similar sensory effect to the pure Oxismooth® CP product.

[0271] For spreading, composition 7 shows an effect of a decrease of 1 index point while for the greasy effect a decrease of half of the index is obtained compared to the Oxismooth® CP product.

[0272] Composition 7 has an improved softness effect compared to the Oxismooth® CP product.

[0273] The composition of the invention in the form of a Winsor III type triphasic solution meets the desired criteria cited above with more advantageous or new sensory properties compared to those of the pure oil used in the composition.

[0274] Example 12: Sensory profile of a Winsor III solution based on Vegelight™ Silk.

[0275] A Winsor III type Vegelight™ Silk based composition 8 according to the invention for hair was prepared. Table 8 below lists the ingredients of Winsor III type Vegelight™ Silk based composition 8 for cosmetic application to hair.

[0276] Table 8: Composition 8 of Winsor type III for hair based on Vegelight™ Silk The sensory tests described above with the “EBItouch®” kit were carried out on the cosmetic ingredient Oxismooth® CP and the composition 8 according to the invention of Winsor type III based on Oxismooth® CP.

[0277] Figure 4 represents on the same 5-input diagram the sensory profile of the cosmetic ingredient Vegelight™ Silk and that of the cosmetic composition 8 formulated in Winsor III based on Vegelight™ Silk, allowing a comparison between the two profiles for the following descriptions: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0278] Both solutions did not show any sticky effect.

[0279] Composition 8 allows the oily appearance of the Vegelight™ Silk cosmetic ingredient.

[0280] In terms of spreadability, absorption and softness, composition 8 is 2 to 3 index points higher than the pure Vegelight™ Silk ingredient.

[0281] Example 13: Sensory profile of a Winsor III solution based on isopropyl myristate (IPM)

[0282] A composition 9 according to the invention of Winsor III type based on isopropyl myristate (IPM) for nails was prepared.

[0283] Table 9 below lists the ingredients of Winsor Type III Composition 9 based on isopropyl myristate (IPM), intended for cosmetic application to nails.

[0284] Table 9: Winsor Type III Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) Nail Composition 9

[0285] The sensory tests described above with the “EBItouch®” kit were carried out on isopropyl myristate (IPM) and composition 9 according to the invention of Winsor III type based on isopropyl myristate (IPM). Figure 5 represents on the same 5-entry diagram the sensory profile of isopropyl myristate (IPM) and that of cosmetic composition 9 formulated in Winsor III based on isopropyl myristate (IPM), allowing a comparison between the two profiles for the following descriptions: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0286] Both solutions did not show any sticky effect.

[0287] Composition 9 exhibits superior spreading, absorption, and smoothness compared to pure isopropyl myristate (IPM) and half the greasy effect.

[0288] In conclusion, advantageously the solutions of the invention of examples 10 to 13 in the form of Winsor III:

[0289] - loses the sticky sensory aspect,

[0290] - decreases or loses the greasy effect,

[0291] - while improving the absorption and softness effect compared to the base oil used,

[0292] - with a high spreading index of 8 to 9.

[0293] Example 14: Winsor III Type 10 Composition for Hair

[0294] Table 10 below lists the ingredients of Winsor III Type 10 composition for hair cosmetic application, along with examples of suppliers, function in the composition, the Naturalness Index of each ingredient (NOI) and the Naturalness Index of the ingredient in the composition (CNO) according to ISO 16 128.

[0295] Table 10: Winsor III Type 10 Composition for Hair

[0296] The naturalness index according to ISO 16 128 of Winsor III type 10 composition for hair reported in table 1 is 90.80%.

[0297] The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system were obtained.

[0298] Example 15: Winsor III type composition for hair

[0299] Table 11 below lists the ingredients of the Winsor III type composition for cosmetic application to hair, along with non-limiting examples of suppliers, and the function in the composition. The ingredients of the composition may be from suppliers other than those specifically mentioned.

[0300] Table 11: Winsor III Type 11 Hair Colour

[0301] The naturalness index according to ISO 16 128 of composition 11 of Winsor III type for hair reported in table 11 is 97.54%.

[0302] The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system were obtained. Example 16

[0303] Table 12 below lists the ingredients of Winsor Type III Composition 12 intended for cosmetic application to skin with low ethanol content (i.e. less than 7.5% ethanol content).

[0304] The naturalness index according to ISO 16 128 of the Winsor III type 12 composition for skin reported in Table 12 is 99.2%. The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system were obtained.

[0305] Example 17 Table 13 below lists the ingredients of Winsor III Type 13 composition for low ethanol (i.e., less than 5% ethanol) skin cosmetic application, along with non-limiting examples of suppliers. Ingredients in the composition may be from suppliers other than those specifically listed.

[0306] Table 13: Winsor III type 13 composition for skin The naturalness index according to ISO 16 128 of Winsor III type 12 composition for skin reported in table 13 is 100.0%.

[0307] The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system were obtained.

[0308] Example 18

[0309] Table 14 below lists the ingredients of Winsor Type III Composition 14 for low ethanol skin cosmetic application (i.e., 3% ethanol or less), along with non-limiting examples of suppliers. Ingredients in the composition may be from suppliers other than those specifically mentioned. Table 14: Winsor III Type 14 Composition for Skin

[0310] The naturalness index according to ISO 16 128 of Winsor III type 14 composition for skin reported in table 14 is 100.0%.

[0311] The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under gentle stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system were obtained.

[0312] Example 19: Skin tolerance tests of a Winsor III type composition

[0313] Composition 12 of Example 16 was used as a cosmetic product to carry out skin tolerance tests.

[0314] Objective of the study

[0315] The study carried out made it possible to determine the local skin tolerance of the product in a group of healthy subjects with increased sensitivity and a positive allergen screening of the skin in order to establish possible irritant and / or sensitizing properties of the product.

[0316] Methodology

[0317] The study was carried out in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetics.

[0318] The study was conducted in accordance with the recommendations of Cosmetics Europe - The Personal Care Association.

[0319] • Guidelines for testing products for the assessment of compatibility with human skin, 1997,

[0320] • Guidelines for the evaluation of the efficacy of cosmetic products 2008.

[0321] Patch tests were carried out under the careful supervision of a specialist doctor - dermatologist.

[0322] The allergenic and irritant characteristics were assessed on a group of healthy subjects with sensitive skin, without allergies to any of the ingredients in the formulation. Subjects were required to follow all the rules included in the procedures with particular attention during the study. Patch tests were assessed after 48 and 72 hours. The examination was performed with the semi-open patch test using Finn Chamber patches.

[0323] Test subjects The selection of subjects was carried out by a dermatologist in accordance with the 1964 Declaration of Helsinki (with subsequent amendments), Polish laws, and Cosmetics Europe guidelines with the application of inclusion and exclusion criteria.

[0324] All subjects were aware of the study procedure and signed their informed consent to participate in the study. The application of the patch tests was preceded by a health survey including information on current and past illnesses, the investigation of coexisting skin problems (including allergy problems), and a dermatological examination assessing, among other things, skin type and the presence of any pathological changes in the skin. The skin on which the patch tests were applied was healthy and free of skin lesions. Subjects were informed not to expose their skin to UV rays and not to take antihistamines or other pharmaceutical drugs (systemic and local) that could interfere with the applied product and influence the study results.

[0325] Evaluation parameter

[0326] The assessment scale considered in this study is presented in Table 15 below.

[0327] Table 15: Skin irritation assessment scale

[0328] Example 20: Results and conclusions of the tolerance tests Table 16 reports the results on 20 subjects tested, of skin tolerance at 48h and 72h after application of composition 12 of Winsor III type. The results obtained by considering the evaluation scale of table 15, were reported according to the characteristics of the subjects tested (Sex: Male / Female, Age, type of sensitive / Normal skin).

[0329] Table 16: Results of skin tolerance of 20 subjects to Winsor type composition 12

[0330] III for skin.

[0331] In 20 subjects, the results of the skin tests were negative, meaning that the product does not cause irritation or allergic reactions in these subjects. In conclusion, after conducting the patch tests on the selected population, it was determined that the product (Winsor Type III Skin Composition 12) does not cause any irritant effects.

[0332] The study results apply only to people who are not allergic to any ingredient in the product.

[0333] The product meets the requirements of the skin tolerance test and can be considered non-irritant.

[0334] The product meets the requirements for cosmetic products with declared properties regarding safety for human health. These clinical results show that triphasic compositions are non-irritating to the skin, despite the presence of ethanol and salts.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a triphasic system, in particular in the form of a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, in particular from 80 to 90%, preferably greater than 95%, said cosmetic composition consisting of or comprising: a hydrophilic phase consisting of or comprising o an aqueous phase representing from 15 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 30 to 40%, o free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, in liquid form chosen from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, a lipophilic phase consisting of or comprising o an oily phase representing from 10 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 20 at 35% by weight,o a natural oil or a mixture of natural oils, preferably based on vegetable oils or emollients, o free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of silicone and mineral oil relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, a microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase, comprising o one or more surfactants representing from 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 5 to 10%, chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol of fatty acid of natural origin and acyl lactylates, in particular with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol, optionally a colorant, optionally a perfume, at least one cosmetic active ingredient., 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase comprises one or more surfactants chosen from capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and their mixture, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, the mixture of polyglyceryl-4 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, the mixture of polyglyceryl-10 caprylate and caprate, polyricinoleate polyglyceryl-3, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and mixture of glyceryl caprylate and caprate, sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, in which said composition has a naturalness index of 0.95 to 1.0 according to standard ISO 16 128.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, in which said composition is in the form of a Winsor III type system.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said cosmetic composition is capable of forming a single homogeneous phase in the form of an emulsion for at least a period of 30 seconds, in particular from 30 seconds to 2 hours, preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, after stirring under conditions allowing the emulsification of said composition and its homogeneous spreading on the skin, hair or nails of the consumer.

6. Composition according to claim 1 to 5, in which said hydrophilic phase further comprises: o a cosmetic mineral or organic salt in an amount of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt is derived from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties are previously established, and o ethanol in an amount of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%.

7. Composition according to claim 1 to 5, in which said hydrophilic phase further comprises o a cosmetic mineral or organic salt in an amount of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt is derived from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties are previously established, o and is free from ethanol.

8. Composition according to claim 1 to 5, wherein said hydrophilic phase further comprises o ethanol in an amount of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16% o and is free from a cosmetic mineral or organic salt.

9. Composition according to claim 1 to 5, wherein said hydrophilic phase is free of a cosmetic mineral or organic salt and is free of ethanol.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, in which said natural oil or mixture of natural oils is chosen from: ■ a vegetable oil, ■ medium-chain triglycerides containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils), ■ monoglycerides or diglycerides from plant extracts ■ an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin, in particular amyl oleate, isoamyl oleate, ethyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, ■ an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular chosen from terpenes, squalene and squalane, in particular comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. 11 . Method for formulating a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, in the form of a Winsor III type triphasic system, of which at least 75%, in particular 80 to 90%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin, comprising the following steps: a) A step of preparing an equimass mixture of an aqueous phase (50% w / w) and an oily phase (50% w / w) comprising neither surfactant, nor salt, nor ethanol, b) a step of forming an emulsion of the mixture by adding a surfactant, in particular 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the composition, until a white emulsion of the mixture is obtained, c) a step of adding a second surfactant, called cosurfactant, and / or ethanol and / or salt until demixing of said white emulsion and obtaining a composition of Winsor type I, II, or III at terrestrial ambient temperature and preferably between 15 and 30 degrees Celsius d) a visual step of determining the type of Winsor I, II or III composition obtained e1) when a Winsor I type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of the oil phase, a step of repeating steps b, c and d with a surfactant of hydrophilic character until a Winsor III type composition is obtained e2) when a Winsor II type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of water, a step of repeating steps b, c and d with a surfactant of lipophilic character until a Winsor III type composition is obtained, e3) when a Winsor III type composition is obtained, possibly a step of adjusting the volumes of the different phases,f) a step of determining the contents of the constituents of said Winsor III type composition by mass relative to the total mass of the composition in order to obtain the formulation of a cosmetic composition in the form of a thermodynamically stable three-phase system., 12. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, of which at least 75%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin, comprising a step of mixing the constituents of the formulation determined according to the method according to claim 11 to formulate a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10.

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