A polyphenol-based hair colouring composition
A polyphenol-based hair coloring composition addresses the issues of skin irritation and environmental impact by using a sequential two-component system with polyphenols, pH modulators, oxidants, and iron salts, resulting in long-lasting, shampoo-resistant hair color that is safe and sustainable.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/IB2024/059512
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-09-16
- Filing Date
- 2024-09-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-20
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dye compositions often cause skin irritation and allergic reactions due to the use of synthetic dye precursors like paraphenylediamine (PPD), and they are not eco-friendly or long-lasting.
A polyphenol-based multi-component hair coloring composition comprising a mixture of polyphenols, pH modulators, oxidants, and transition metal ions like iron salts, which are applied in a sequential two-component system to achieve long-lasting, shampoo-resistant color without lifting the hair cuticles.
The composition provides long-lasting, durable hair color that is resistant to shampoo washing, is safer for the hair and scalp as it does not contain PPD or ammonia, and is more sustainable and eco-friendly.
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Figure IB2024059512_20032025_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] A POLYPHENOL-BASED HAIR COLOURING COMPOSITION
[0002] TECHNICAL FIELD:
[0003] The present disclosure relates to a cosmetic application. More specifically, the present disclosure relates to a polyphenol-based multi-component system / composition comprising (a) a mixture of polyphenol / s, pH modulator / s, and oxidant / s, and (b) transition metal ion / s such as iron salt optionally including a reducing agent. Also, the present disclosure relates to a two-component system / composition comprising polyphenol in the presence of a select oxidising agent in a suitable alkaline medium and a transition metal ion such as iron salt optionally including a reducing agentthat colour the gray or blond or bleached hair strands. The colour can be tuned by using different polyphenols. Further, the present disclosure relates to a hair colour composition that provides long-lasting colour, resistance to shampoo washing, and more sustainable and eco-friendlier. Furthermore, the present disclosure relates to providing a simple, easy-to-apply, efficient, and cost-effective composition.
[0004] BACKGROUND:
[0005] The background description includes information that may help understand the current invention and is being presented to help understand the current knowledge in the relevant field. This review of the prior and relevant art, including any publication directly or implicitly referred to herein is not an admission that any of the data presented in the current application is previous knowledge or is fully pertinent or directly leads to the invention currently being claimed.
[0006] Hair colour is directly related to the social status and many people use hair colours, either to hide gray hairs or just to change the colour of their natural hair. Eumelanin and pheomelanin are two types of pigments that affect hair colour. Eumelanin, which is present on the hair, can give it a brown to black colour. Additionally, hair dyeing processes can be classified as (i) non-oxidative or oxidative based on nature of the coloring process, as well as (ii) temporary, semi-permanent, demi-permanent, or permanent, depending on how long the colour lasts after being applied to the hair strands. Oxidative hair dyes are popularly used due to their resistance to shampoo wash and greater efficiency. However, in reality, due to the presence of high concentration of aromatic amines, ammonia, and high alkalinity the permanent dyes can cause skin irritation, more severe dermatitis and in rare case even fatality. In order to overcome this issue, there is a need for hair dye compositions that are milder and are preferably based on natural products. There have been many attempts in the past to solve this challenging problem.
[0007] EP2225003B1 discloses a method that comprises of at least one primary dye intermediate, and a developer composition comprising an oxidizing agent chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, and mixtures thereof. It was pointed out that the colour base composition and developer composition are substantially free of an oxidation catalyst such as cupric and ferrous ions. This prior art discloses an art to permanently color the hair without lifting the hair colour. However, the major drawback of the art is utilization of paraphenylediamine (PPD) based hair dye which generally needs a patch test and usually causes skin irritation and / or allergic contact dermatitis. The present application does not involve any synthetic dye precursor like PPD and thus distinguishes itself from this prior art.
[0008] EP2315573B2 discloses a method, kits and compositions for coloring the hair involving a color base composition having at least one oxidation dye precursor, and a color base composition, wherein the color base composition has a pH ranging from 2 to 12. A developer composition made from a combination of an anhydrous oxidizer composition containing at least one oxidizing agent chosen from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates. Further, a shampoo composition was used as a carrier vehicle with at least one surfactant. The present application doesn’t utilize a lifting agent which removes the natural hair melanin. Further, the present invention primarily utilizes polyphenols based hair coloring system which is highly resistant to shampoo wash. On the other hand, this prior art doesn’t disclose the utilization of patch test or skin irritation test results as paraphenylediamine (PPD) usually causes skin irritation and / or allergic contact dermatitis.
[0009] US20110203605 discloses a method to permanently color the hair by lifting the natural hair color. A color base composition with one primary dye intermediate from ortho-aminophenol, para-aminophenol, para-phenylenediamines and a developer composition containing one oxidizing agent from persulfate, percarbonate and perborate was chosen. This prior art utilizes a lifting composition which will permanently remove or lighten the hair colour by removing the natural melanin. Thus, a natural hair color formulation without any lifting agents was preferred. The present invention doesn’t use any agent to lift or lighten the hair. Thus, it distinguishes itself from the prior art. US8152859B2 / W02010063533Aldescribes a method of coloring keratinous fibers by sequentially treating hair with a pre-treatment composition and a color developer wherein: (i). the pre-treatment composition comprises: (a) 0.5-25% by weight of an iron salt at a pH below 2 including 0.5-5% by weight of a reducing agent (b) a buffer effective in the pH range 3-6 and (c) a penetration enhancer such as ethylene carbonate or propylene carbonate, or acetonitrile wherein the component (b) is mixed with (a) or (c) not more than 360 minutes prior to contacting the keratinous fibres and (ii). the color developer is selected from one or more of hydrolysable tannin or its break down products or derivatives or a mixture thereof obtained from a natural or synthetic source, where the sequence of contact is in any order. The present invention substantially defers from this cited art by having an oxidising agent, a different operating pH, no use of penetration enhancer and a simpler two step protocol for application.
[0010] WO 2012159918 Al discloses a sequential method comprising of two components mentioning composition A and B. The composition A consists of at least one metal ion such as iron, copper, zinc or aluminium in a shampoo base which includes surfactants, silicones, carbomer, mica, NaCl and other polymers. The composition B is a pulp or a concentrate juice of Vaccinium genus in the concentration of 0.5wt% to 10 wt%. The colouration is essentially due to the presence of anthocyanin molecules. The cited prior art is significantly different from the present invention. The present invention uses oxidising agent as well as reducing agent that are not used in the prior art.
[0011] Hidekazu et al. (Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological science and Application, 2012,2,158- 163) has shown that an enzymatic reaction using tyrosinase with catechin leads to a product named catechinone that is suitable for the colouration of white hair to reddish orange colourant which can be further tuned by adding other bio based materials. The scope in the prior art is limited to a specific molecule (catechin) and its enzyme treated product catechinone. The present invention, in contrast, uses oxidising agent that are not used in the prior art.
[0012] IN373744B discloses a pH dependent hair color formulation using tannin-ion complex formation with potassium carbonate is described. Sequentially applying the hair colour formulation affects the degree of dissociation of the ferrous ammonium sulfate and ionization of tannin which influences the activity in water base solution and gives a darker shade on hair. This prior art utilizes a natural plant derived polyphenols in the formulation. However, the presence of 5-25% wt. / v of ferrous ammonium sulfate in the hair color formulation typically affects the hair texture and leads to hair damage. The present invention does not use such high levels of ferrous salt and is thus safer to hair.
[0013] WO2023282376Aldiscloses a hair colouring composition containing trihydroxybenzene works without an amine, alkali, and an oxidizing agent. The developed hair colour composition includes a series of extract such as black sesame, black mulberry fruit, black truffle extract, black cumin seed extract, black cherry fruit extract and gallic acid. This prior art states that trihydroxybenzene remains on the hair due to strong adsorption to proteins and undergoes air oxidation to give a darker shade which is closer to black. The present invention, however, uses oxidising agent and reducing agent including iron salt that are not used in the prior art and is thus different from the prior art.
[0014] WO2010062138A2 discloses an oxidative dyeing of keratin fibres using a prominent hair dye composition consist of one or more natural materials which prominently includes green tea polysaccharide, cypress polysaccharide, herbaceous peony, lotus root, Eclipta prostrata, Bletilla striata, Sophora flavescens and Coptis chinensis as an effective ingredient. The author stated that hair dye composition capable of alleviating skin irritation and inflammation caused by hair dyeing. However, this prior art utilizes an oxidative dye precursor that is not used in the present invention.
[0015] Thus, there is a need to create an eco-friendly, PPD free, durable and shampoo wash proof hair color product which is expected to color the hair without lifting the hair. The present disclosure provides a hair color formulation which permanently colors the hair without lifting the hair cuticles.
[0016] OBJECTIVES:
[0017] An object of the present disclosure is to provide a synergistic hair coloring composition.
[0018] Another object of the present disclosure is to provide a polyphenol-based multi-component system / composition for hair colouring comprising (a) a mixture of polyphenol / s, pH modulator / s, and oxidant / s, and (b) transition metal ion / s optionally including a reducing agent. Yet another object of the present disclosure is to provide hair colouring composition with an ammonia free, and PPD free hair color formulation based on a plant derived phenolic compound and that does not lift hair cuticles making it safe for hair.
[0019] An additional object of the present disclosure is to provide a hair colouring composition that delivers colour to hair that is resistant to shampooing.
[0020] Further object of the present disclosure is to provide a hair colouring composition that delivers long -lasting hair color based also on natural plant derived components.
[0021] Furthermore, another object of the present disclosure is to provide a method of hair colouring with sequential treatment of hair with a two-component system.
[0022] SUMMARY:
[0023] The present disclosure provides a polyphenol-based multi-component composition for colouring of hair comprising: a) a mixture of
[0024] (i) polyphenol / s in the range of 0.5 wt% to 20 wt%; and
[0025] (ii) pH modulator / s in the range of 0.5 wt% to 20 wt%; and
[0026] (iii) oxidants in the range of 0.5 wt% to 10 wt%; and b) transition metal ion / s such as iron salts including reducing agents in the ranges 0.1 wt% to 20 wt% in a cosmetically acceptable base where Component A and Component B are used in a sequential manner.
[0027] The present disclosure provides a composition that can deliver different colours by appropriate selection of polyphenols and the shade can be varied by single or repetitive / multiple applications.
[0028] The present disclosure further provides a composition that gives a long-lasting colour to hair, being resistant to wash by shampoo.
[0029] Various features, aspects and advantages of the inventive subject matter will become more apparent from the following detailed description of preferred embodiments. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS:
[0030] The accompanying drawing are included to provide a further understanding of the present disclosure and are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification. The drawing illustrates exemplary embodiments of the present disclosure and, together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the present disclosure. The diagrams are for illustration only, which thus is not a limitation of the present disclosure:
[0031] Figure 1 shows pprogressively coloured natural gray hair with polyphenols-based formulation.
[0032] DETAILED DESCRIPTION:
[0033] Specific details are given in the following description to provide a thorough understanding of the embodiments. However, it may be understood by one of ordinary skill in the art that the embodiments may be practiced without being limited to these specific details.
[0034] It is to be understood that the present disclosure is not limited in its application to the details of construction and the arrangement of components set forth in the following description or illustrated in the drawings. The present disclosure is capable of other embodiments, of being practiced, or of being carried out in various ways. Also, it is to be understood that the phraseology and terminology used herein is for the purpose of description and should not be regarded as limiting.
[0035] Definition:
[0036] All technical and scientific words used herein, unless otherwise defined, have the same meaning as commonly known by one having ordinary ability in the relevant field. The words "a" and "an" designate one or more (i.e., at least one) of the article's grammatical objects. Unless otherwise stated, weight is used to determine all percentages and ratios. All percentages and ratios are calculated based on the total final composition unless otherwise indicated.
[0037] As used herein, whether in a transitional phase or the body of a claim, the terms “comprise(s)” and “comprising” are to be interpreted as having an open-ended meaning. That is, the terms are to be interpreted synonymously with the phrases “having at least” or “including at least”. When used in the context of a process, the term “comprising” means that the process includes at least the recited steps, but may include additional steps. When used in the context of a composition, the term “comprising” means that the composition includes at least the recited features or components but may also include additional features or components.
[0038] All composition described herein can be performed in suitable order unless otherwise indicated herein or otherwise clearly contradicted by context. The use of any and all examples, or exemplary language (e.g., “such as”,) provided with respect to certain embodiments herein is intended merely to better illuminate the disclosure and does not pose a limitation on the scope of the invention otherwise claimed. No language in the specification should be construed as indicating any non-claimed element essential to the practice of the disclosure.
[0039] The numerical values given for various physical parameters, dimensions and quantities are only approximate values and it is envisaged that the values higher than the numerical value assigned to the physical parameters, dimensions and quantities fall within the scope of the disclosure unless there is a statement in the specification to the contrary.
[0040] All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include solvents or byproducts that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified. The term “weight percent” may be denoted as “wt. %” herein.
[0041] Aspects of the present disclosure are further understood in light of the following examples, which should not be considered as limiting the scope of the present disclosure.
[0042] An aspect of the present disclosure provides a polyphenol-based multi-component system / composition for hair colouring comprising:
[0043] (A) mixture of (i) polyphenol / s, (ii) pH modulator / s, and (iii) oxidant / s; and co-acting with
[0044] (B) transition metal ion / s such as iron salt including a reducing agent in a cosmetically acceptable base where Component A and Component B are used in a sequential manner. The four types of ingredients viz. of (i) polyphenol / s, (ii) pH modulator / s, (iii) oxidant / s and (iv) transition metal ion / s can be grouped in any manner into 2 components and used either via single or multiple applications. An embodiment of the present disclosure provides the body of the text of the current application, the composition applied first on hair is referred to as Component A (Liquid Phase A). Typically, but not necessarily, it is the mixture polyphenol, pH modulator and oxidant. The composition applied subsequently on hair is referred to as Component B (Liquid Phase B). Typically, but not necessarily, it is the component having metal ion. One time application of each of the components in the recommended sequential manner constitutes a single application and repetitive single application is referred to as multiple application or progressive hair colouring.
[0045] In an embodiment of the present disclosure provides the polyphenol / s include but are not limited to one or more polyphenol consisting of gallic acid, quarcetin, 1-tyrosine, catechin, catechol, kaempferol, myricetin, caffeic acid, curcumin, ferulic acid, resveratol, gallocatechin, apigenin, pyrogallol, acetosyringone, vanillic acid and syringic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0046] Another embodiment of the present disclosure provides the pH modulating agent / s include but are not limited to, potassium hydroxide, potassium carbonate, sodium silicate, Manganese sulphate, calcium phosphate, magnesium sulphate, calcium oxide and sodium hydroxide or mixtures thereof.
[0047] Yet another embodiment of the present disclosure provides an oxidizing agent / s include but are not limited to hydrogen peroxide, potassium dichromate, sodium hypochlorite, calcium hypochlorite, nitric acid, oxygen, ozone, potassium perchlorate, potassium chlorate, potassium permanganate, potassium persulfate, potassium peroxymonosulfate and sodium persulfate or mixtures thereof.
[0048] In yet Another embodiment of the present disclosure provides the transition metal ion / s which also acts as a reducing agent include / s but are not limited to ferrous ammonium sulfate, ferrous fumarate, ferrous gluconate, ferrous succinate, ferrous chloride, ferric sulfate, ferric nitrate, ferric chloride, ferrous ammonium chloride, ferrous sulfate, ferric ammonium citrate and copper sulfate or mixtures thereof.
[0049] Further embodiment of the present disclosure provides the pH of the composition ranges from 5 to 12. Furthermore, embodiment of the present disclosure provides the composition is deliver different colours to hair based on selection of the combination of polyphenols while the shades is modified by single or multiple applications.
[0050] In an embodiment of the present disclosure provides the colour delivered onto hair while being long-lasting without getting washed out by shampoo wash.
[0051] In an embodiment of the present disclosure provides the cosmetically acceptable base contains cosmetically approved ingredients such as surfactants, conditioners, moisturizers, thickeners, opacifiers, pearlisers, antioxidants, hair benefit agents, different plant extracts, vitamins, minerals, chelating agents, water-hardness modifying agents, preservatives, fragrance, and colours / pigment or combination thereof.
[0052] In an embodiment of the present disclosure provides the four types of ingredients viz. of (i) polyphenol / s, (ii) pH modulator / s, (iii) oxidant / s and (iv) transition metal ion / s can be grouped in any manner into 2 components and used either via single or multiple applications.
[0053] In an embodiment of the present disclosure provides, a polyphenol-based hair color formulation consisting of (i) a polyphenol such as gallic acid, (ii) an oxidizing agent such as potassium persulfate, (iii) a pH modulator such as potassium carbonate and (iv) a ferrous ammonium sulfate system which transforms gray hair to colored hair either in a single application or upon progressive application. This formulation is stable, resistant to shampoo wash, cost effective and eco-friendly. Further, the formulation is highly pH dependent and, in particular, requiring specific pH modulators like potassium carbonate or sodium silicate to effectively transform the color of gray or blond or bleached hair fiber to coloured hair. We further found that this formulation works best when used in a sequential approach as described.
[0054] In an embodiment of the present disclosure provides, as a specific example, treating the hair with a solution of polyphenol such as gallic acid with potassium carbonate and potassium persulfate at pH range of 5-12 followed by treatment with ferrous ammonium sulfate resulting in coloration of gray or blond or bleached hair. We found that in the prescribed multi-component system, sequential treatment of the hair swatch for 5-90 minutes for each component resulted in colour development. Another embodiment of the present disclosure provides that repetition of the sequential colouring process resulting in a progressive transformation of gray hair to colored hair. Thus, even if a single application of the composition does not give excellent colour, it can be repeated to get very dark colour to hair. Figure 1 shows the progressive coloring of untreated natural gray hair dipped in the two-component system for a period of 5-90 min for Component A followed by another 5-90 min for Component B, via multiple application of the composition.
[0055] Further areas of applicability of the present invention will become apparent from the detailed description provided hereinafter. It should be understood that the detailed description and specific examples, while indicating the preferred embodiment of the invention, are intended for purposes of illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.
[0056] EXAMPLES:
[0057] The following are non - limiting examples of the composition described herein. The examples were prepared by the method described below. Other modifications of the present invention within the skill of those in the techniques and art of formulation can be undertaken without departing from the spirit and scope of this invention.
[0058] All parts, and percentages mentioned herein are by weight or by weight % unless otherwise specified. Some components may come from suppliers as dilute solutions. Unless specified otherwise, the amount stated reflects the weight percent of the active material.
[0059] Example la: Preparation of Component A of Hair Coloring Composition in the Liquid Format
[0060] Unless mentioned otherwise, the general compositions for Component A (Liquid Phase A) used for the illustrative examples, are given in Table 1. Table 1: Compositions for Component A (weight%) Method of Preparation of Composition Al: To water (89g), gallic acid (5g) was added followed by potassium carbonate (5g) and the mixture was stirred at room temperature till a homogeneous solution was formed. Potassium persulfate (1g) was then added to the solution and further mixed at room temperature until dissolution of the components. The solution turns dark in colour and is ready for use.
[0061] Method of Preparation of Composition A2: Prepared following the same procedure as for Al except for change of quantities as per quantities mentioned in Table 1.
[0062] Example lb: Preparation of Component B of Hair Coloring Composition in The Liquid Format
[0063] Unless mentioned otherwise, the general compositions for Component B used for the illustrative examples, are given in Table 2.
[0064] Method of preparation of Composition Bl: Ferrous ammonium sulfate (1g) was dissolved in water (99g) and was ready for use.
[0065] Method of preparation of Composition B2: Prepared by following the same procedure like Bl except as per quantities mentioned in Table 2.
[0066] Example 2: General Method of Colouring of Hair and Evaluation of Degree of Colour
[0067] All experiments followed a general procedure involving two (2) steps where the compositions varied as per the specifics of Step #1 and Step #2 given in the different tables and the time of exposure also varied as per the specific experimental plan described in the tables. The soaking / treatment period can vary between 5-90 minutes; however, the methods described in this section refer to the condition of actual experiments.
[0068] Method 2A:
[0069] Step #1: A gray hair swatch (3 to 8 g) was soaked in (or treated with) the given compositions (Component A) as specified for the study (refer relevant Tables). After a soaking / treatment period of 30 minutes, the soaked hair swatch was carefully transferred for the next step. Step #2: The soaked / treated hair from Step #1, was again soaked / treated with compositions (Component B) as specified for the study (refer relevant Tables). After a soaking / treatment period of 30 minutes, the soaked / treated hair swatch was washed in a commercial shampoo. After treatment with shampoo, the hair swatch was thoroughly washed with water. The washed hair was dried using a hair drier and was ready for evaluation.
[0070] Step #3: The degree of coloration of the washed and dried hair swatch was determined instrumentally by measuring the L value of the hair swatch using spectrophotometer. The L value is a color space defined by International Commission of Illumination, where L is the lightness value (L) on a measure of 0-100, 0 representing black and 100 representing white. That is, smaller the L value, darker is the colour.
[0071] Method 2B:
[0072] Step #1: The procedure was same as that described in Method 2A, except that the soaking / treatment time was for 60 min.
[0073] Step #2: The procedure was same as that described in Method 2A, except that the soaking / treatment time was for 60 min.
[0074] Step #3: The procedure was same as that described in Method 2A.
[0075] Example 3: Influence of Components of the Steps on Hair Colouring
[0076] The composition of the steps (Components / liquid phases) has a crucial role in hair coloring. Thus, a series of experiments were conducted and the L value using spectrophotometer was recorded. It is to be noted that by default the potassium carbonate is added along with gallic acid because the addition of potassium carbonate helps in complete dissolution of gallic acid by increasing the pH of the solution. Table 3 mentions the order of addition and the corresponding L value of hair swatches for the same experiments.
[0077] The experiments were conducted using various compositions of the Components for the Steps. The hair swatches were coloured following the method described under Example 2 / Method 2A.
[0078] As can be seen, the extent of darkening of the hair swatches varied with the compositions of the components (the Steps). Based on the above results, it may be concluded that while all combinations resulted in darkening (black colour), the degree of colouring varied based on 5 composition and sequence of the steps. It may be noted that
[0079] • Hair colouring with Ferrous ammonium sulphate (FeAS) as Component B (Step#2) gave excellent colouring to hair (see Expt. No. 2)
[0080] It is to be recognized that even a composition giving lower hair darkening / colouring (higher L value) is still useful as it is good as a progressive hair colouring composition.
[0081] 10
[0082] Example 4: Effect of pH Modulating Agents on Hair Colouring
[0083] During the course of the invention, it was noted that the results were strongly influenced by specific pH and specific pH modulators. Studies were conducted by colouring hair swatches following the method described under Example 2 / Method 2A; the compositions and the 15 results are documented in Table 4,
[0084] Component A: It was prepared following the Method of Preparation of Composition Al. Component B: It was prepared following the Methods of Preparation of Composition B 1 and B2.
[0085] Hair Colouration and Evaluation: It was carried out following the Example 2 / Method 2A.
[0086] Table 4 showed that while most pH modulators showed some degree of colouration, specific
[0087] 5 modulators exhibited exceptional hair colouring. For example, the addition of K2CO3 or sodium silicate significantly changed the colour of hair swatch from lighter shade to a very dark shade. The effective pH range is seen to be between 5 and 12. It is to be recognized that even a composition giving lower hair darkening / colouring (higher L value) is very useful as it is good as a progressive hair colouring composition.
[0088] Example 5: Influence of Concentration of Gallic Acid On Hair Colouring
[0089] Polyphenols as colour precursors have a crucial role in developing colour on hair. The nature
[0090] 5 of polyphenols and their concentrations play an important role in colour delivery and Example 5 illustrates the same using Gallic acid as the polyphenol component. The compositions and its influence on colour delivery are shown in Table 5.
[0091] Component A: It was prepared following the Method of Preparation of Composition Al.
[0092] Component B: It was prepared following the Method of Preparation of Composition B 1.
[0093] 10 Hair Colouration and Evaluation: Example 2 / Method 2A were followed.
[0094] It is to be noted that the concentration of potassium carbonate changes together with gallic acid concentration for better dissolution of polyphenolic compound.
[0095] Table 5 shows that the increasing concentration of Gallic acid improved delivery of colour (lower L value) and then at further increased concentration the colouration started reducing 15 (higher L value). Based on the examples studied Gallic acid was able to impart colour to hair when it was present in the concentration of lwt% to 15 wt% and as the concentrations of other ingredients are not optimized it may be anticipated that a range of 0.5 wt% to 20 wt% of polyphenol / s will deliver colour to hair.
[0096] It is to be recognized that even a composition giving lower hair darkening / colouring (higher L value) is very useful as it still is good as a progressive hair colouring composition. Example 6: Effect Of Different Polyphenols On Their Hair Colouring Efficacy
[0097] Further to understand the effect of polyphenols other than Gallic acid in coloring gray hair, other polyphenols of interest as mentioned in Table 6 were used to study their effectiveness in hair colouring. The weight percentage of polyphenols used, and that of the other components are mentioned in the same Table 6, along with the extent of hair colouring as represented by the L values. In addition to the study of the influence of single polyphenols, combinations of select polyphenols was also evaluated. The compositions and the corresponding L values are also captured in Table 6.
[0098] Component A: It was prepared following the Method of Preparation of Composition Al.
[0099] Component B: It was prepared following the Method of Preparation of Composition B2. Hair Colouration and Evaluation: Example 2 / Method 2A was followed.
[0100] Table 6 shows that, while all polyphenols imparted colour to hair, none of the polyphenols and their combinations tested were as effective as Gallic acid in their delivery of colour (lower L value; refer Expt 25). It may be noted that Expts. 27, 34, 35 and 37 were also very effective. Of course, these experiments were not optimised with respect to the other ingredients and better hair colouring is expected upon additional optimization studies. Nonetheless, it is to be recognized that these polyphenols are still useful as they can be good as a progressive hair colouring composition.
[0101] Further, these experiments showed that other colours, other than black, are obtained by the use of different polyphenols. This is certainly very significant in terms of consumer relevance and hence commercial usefulness.
[0102] Example 7: Effect of Different Oxidizing Agents, Varying Concentration of Potassium Persulphate on Hair Colouring
[0103] The primary role of an oxidizing agent in this study is to oxidize the polyphenol component. The dyeing efficacy of the hair dye formulation with potassium persulfate as the oxidizing agent and the effect of other oxidizing agents in coloring the hair is mentioned in Table 7.
[0104] Component A: It was prepared following the Method of Preparation of Composition Al.
[0105] Component B: It was prepared following the Method of Preparation of Composition B 1 and Composition B2 as relevant.
[0106] Hair Colouration and Evaluation: It was undertaken as per Example 2 / Method 2A.
[0107] Table 7 showed that all the oxidizing agents were effective in delivering colours to hair, though the extent of coloration varied with the different oxidizing agents. Based on the examples studied Potassium persulfate was able to impart deepest colour to hair. In the examples studied, it was present in the concentration of lwt% to 8 wt%. As the concentrations of other ingredients were not optimized it might be anticipated that a range of 0.5 wt% to 10 wt% of oxidizing agent in the composition would impart colour to hair.
[0108] It is to be recognized that these compositions can be good either as a single step coloring composition or as a progressive hair coloring composition.
[0109] Example 8: Effect of Metal Ions and Varying Concentration of Ferrous Ammonium Sulphateon Hair Colouring
[0110] The metal ion component in the composition has a strong influence on coloring of gray hair. The dyeing efficacy of the hair dye formulations with ferrous ammonium sulfate agent as well as different ions are shown in Table 8. The components were prepared as follows.
[0111] Component A: It was prepared following the Method of Preparation of Composition Al.
[0112] Component B: It was prepared following the Method of Preparation of Composition B 1 and Composition B2 as per the composition mentioned in the Table 8. Hair Colouration and Evaluation: Example 2 / Method 2A was followed.
[0113] It may be mentioned here that effectiveness of pure metals like iron (Fe) and zinc (Zn) were also evaluated by replacing metal salts with the metals and at 1% concentration. However, they showed no significant hair colouring; L values were 47.18 for iron and 40.12 for zinc.
[0114] Table 8 and result of Expt 36 (Table 7) show that among the salts tested, ferrous ammonium 5 sulphate was most effective in hair colouration. Based on the examples in Table 8 Ferrous ammonium sulfate was able to impart deepest colour to hair. In the examples studied, it was present in the concentration of 0.1wt% to 10 wt% and the colour was deeper / darker as the concentration increased. It may be noted that upto 10 wt% Ferrous ammonium sulfate was studied and with further increase in concentration, it could have been even better. As the concentrations of the ingredients were not optimised it might be anticipated that a range of 0.1 wt% to 20 wt% of oxidizing agent in the composition would impart colour to hair.
[0115] It may be noted that all the other salts were also effective and were thus suitable for progressive hair colouring purposes.
[0116] Example 9: Progressive Hair Colouring:
[0117] Another prospective of the present innovation is the repeated application of the polyphenols- based hair color formulation to understand the progressive improvement in hair colour. A combination of Composition Al and Composition B2 were used for the study. For colouration and evaluation, Example 2 / Method 2B was followed.
[0118] The L values upon repeated application are indicated in Table 9 and visual effect is shown in the Figure 1 (image of progressive hair colouring of the gray hair by Gallic acid based hair colour formulation with potassium persulfate and ferrous ammonium sulphate).
[0119] Upon repeated application, the L value of the hair swatches showed a decrease in L value starting from 28.21 for single application to 16.5 at fifth application. No major difference is observed for the fourth and fifth application.
[0120] Example 10: Wash-fastness Of Hair Colour to Shampoo Treatment:
[0121] For this study Composition Al and Composition Bl were used. Hair colouring and evaluation was performed by following the Example 2 / Method 2A. To ensure maximum colouration, the hair swatch was coloured five times using the aforementioned formulation and subjected to wash fastness study. Table 10 shows the wash-fastness of hair colour and the corresponding L value for the shampoo treated hair. A SLES based commercial shampoo was used and the weight of the shampoo used was l / 5thof the weight of the swatch. The shampoo was gently rubbed on the wet hair swatch and washed with tap water and dried using hair dryer. To compare the effectiveness of the hair dyeing process, the L value of the dyed hair swatch before and after shampoo wash was determined.
[0122] ADVANTAGES 1. Natural dye precursor
[0123] 2. Simple composition
[0124] 3. Easy-to-apply
[0125] 4. Efficient, and cost-effective composition.
[0126] 5. Eco-friendlier and more sustainable. 6. Provides long -lasting colour, and resistance to shampoo washing.
Claims
We Claim:
1. A polyphenol -based multi-component composition for colouring of hair comprising: a) a mixture of(i) polyphenol / s in the range of 0.5 wt% to 20 wt%; and(ii) pH modulator / s in the range of 0.5 wt% to 20 wt%; and(iii) oxidants in the range of 0.5 wt% to 10 wt%; and b) transition metal ion / s such as iron salts including reducing agents in the ranges 0. 1 wt% to 20 wt% in a cosmetically acceptable base where Component A and Component B are used in a sequential manner.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the polyphenol / s are selected from gallic acid, quercetin, 1-tyrosine, catechin, catechol, kaempferol, myricetin, caffeic acid, curcumin, ferulic acid, resveratol, gallocatechin, apigenin, pyrogallol, acetosyringone, vanillic acid, and syringic acid or combination thereof.
3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the pH modulator / s are selected from potassium hydroxide, potassium carbonate, sodium silicate, manganese sulphate, calcium phosphate, magnesium sulphate, calcium oxide, and sodium hydroxide or combination thereof.
4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the oxidant / s are selected from hydrogen peroxide, potassium dichromate, sodium hypochlorite, calcium hypochlorite, nitric acid, oxygen, ozone, potassium perchlorate, potassium chlorate, potassium permanganate, potassium persulfate, potassium peroxymonosulfate and sodium persulfate or combination thereof.
5. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the transition metal ion / s are selected from ferrous ammonium sulfate, ferrous ammonium chloride, ferrous sulfate, ferrous fumarate, ferrous gluconate, ferrous succinate, ferrous chloride, ferric sulfate, ferric nitrate, ferric chloride, ferric ammonium citrate and copper sulfate or combination thereof.
6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 5 to 12.
7. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition is deliver different colours to hair based on selection of the combination of polyphenols while the shades is modified by single or multiple applications.
8. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the colour delivered onto hair while being long-lasting without getting washed out by shampoo wash.
9. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the cosmetically acceptable base contains cosmetically approved ingredients such as surfactants, conditioners, moisturisers, thickeners, opacifiers, pearlisers, antioxidants, hair benefit agents, different plant extracts, vitamins, minerals, chelating agents, water-hardness modifying agents, preservatives, fragrance, and colours / pigment or combination thereof.
10. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the four types of ingredients viz. of(i) polyphenol / s, (ii) pH modulator / s, (iii) oxidant / s and (iv) transition metal ion / s can be grouped in any manner into 2 components and used either via single or multiple applications.
Citation Information
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