Two-step semi-permanent makeup process using hydrophobic colorants

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for colouring an area of human keratin material such as the skin or the lips, in which the following steps are carried out in succession: a) microperforations are created mechanically in the superficial layer of the skin in the area to be coloured, b) a colouring composition, preferably a liquid colouring composition, comprising at least one hydrophobic colorant, is then applied over all or part of the area exhibiting the microperforations.

Description

TWO-STEP SEMI-PERMANENT MAKEUP PROCESS USING HYDROPHOBIC COLORANTS

[0001] The present invention relates to a process for semi-permanently making up an area of human keratin material such as the skin or the lips, consisting in carrying out a first step of microperforation of said area followed by a second step consisting in applying a composition comprising at least one hydrophobic colorant over all or part of the area thus treated.

[0002] Conventional making up, consisting of topically applying a cosmetic composition comprising in particular dyes or pigments, is painless, clean, simple and rapid, but is not durable and requires making up daily, or even several times during the day. It has long been sought to maintain the quality of the makeup, so as to ensure that it withstands for as long as possible the attacks that the skin, the lips, the area of the eyebrows, the scalp, in particular, are subjected to in the course of a day (meals, drinks, friction, sweat, rain, etc.). Of course, there are compositions on the market which have prolonged staying power, but this very rarely extends beyond one day.

[0003] There are also procedures, carried out in a beauty salon or parlour, requiring the simultaneous use of needles (dermography, tattooing) or a fine blade (microblading, microshading) and pigments. While these methods are highly durable, lasting up to several years, they nevertheless have the drawback of not being able to be self-applied. Specifically, these methods are not rectifiable if an error is made in application. In addition, a makeup duration that may extend up to several weeks, or even several months, may be considered excessive for the person thus made-up, in particular if they are considering using this type of makeup for the first time. Moreover, such methods may make consumers hesitant, in particular since it is known that they are relatively painful to apply and that they can cause bleeding. Thus, these drawbacks, combined with the fact that the actual result cannot always be observed immediately after the treatment (due to the time needed for healing) may constitute obstacles in the decision to choose permanent makeup.

[0004] One of the objectives of the present invention is to propose a solution that makes it possible to combine the advantages of conventional makeup compositions with those employed in a beauty salon or parlour, while limiting their respective drawbacks.

[0005] Thus, the present invention consists of a process for making up an area of human keratin material such as the skin and / or the lips, in which the following steps are carried out in succession:

[0006] a) microperforations are created mechanically in the superficial layer of the skin in the area to be coloured,

[0007] b) a colouring composition, preferably a fluid colouring composition, comprising at least one hydrophobic colorant, is then applied over all or part of the area exhibiting the microperforations.

[0008] The process according to the invention has the advantage of obtaining a makeup that remains visible for several days to several weeks and which can be self-applied.

[0009] The process according to the invention is consequently simple to carry out and rectifiable in the event of an error in the path. Specifically, the actual step of semi-permanent colouring is carried out once the perforations in the superficial layer of the skin have been obtained. In point of fact, the coloured makeup composition is applied in a wholly conventional manner and does not require more dexterity that that employed for conventionally making oneself up and obtaining the desired result. Furthermore, since this second step is carried out only on the area that it is actually desired to make up, the precision of the making up can thus be guaranteed, independently of that of the first step.

[0010] The process according to the invention, depending on the means employed for obtaining the microperforations in the superficial layer of the skin, is low-pain or even painless, and bleeding, where this occurs, is significantly less heavy. This represents one of the additional advantages compared to the usual methods of salons and parlours, which are usually relatively painful and often cause bleeding that in some cases is heavy.

[0011] However, other aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.FIRST STEP

[0012] As indicated above, the first step of the process according to the invention consists in creating microperforations in the superficial layer of the skin over the area it is desired to make up. It is specified that the process according to the invention is a cosmetic makeup process, not a surgical one.

[0013] This first step is carried out by means of a device equipped with needle(s) or of a needle-free injection device, producing either one or more high-pressure jets or one or more high-velocity jets. The device used for carrying out the first step may also be provided with abrasive particles at the surface of an applicator.

[0014] These devices are known in the art.

[0015] As regards apparatuses that function with one or more needles, these devices function by causing the needle(s) to oscillate at a high speed so as to cause them to penetrate into the superficial layer of the skin, over a determined thickness, and to bring them back out. These apparatuses that function with one or more needles are additionally generally provided with a mechanism allowing the perforation depth to be adjusted (thumbwheel or stop). Adjusted to a small depth, these apparatuses make it possible in particular to superficially perforate the superficial layer of the skin, while very significantly limiting pain and the occurrence of bleeding.

[0016] The needles are sometimes hollow in order to enable the inflow or retention of a liquid. This type of device could also function without the inflow or presence of liquid.

[0017] As a particular example of a device functioning with solid needles, mention may be made of devices using microneedle patches.

[0018] The microneedle usually has a height of 10 to 500 µm, and in particular has the shape of a pyramid. The (height of the pyramid) / (width of the base of the pyramid) ratio of the microneedle is advantageously at least 1, preferably at least 1.5.

[0019] The microneedles used do not decompose / disintegrate in the keratin material in which the microperforations are created. Thus, they are preferentially constituted of inorganic materials, preferably metals or non-metals, and more preferentially of silicon.

[0020] The application of these microneedles may also take place several times, by vibrations or tapping.

[0021] As regards the apparatuses functioning with an abrasive applicator (head), these devices may oscillate while being moved on the surface of the area to be treated. This makes it possible to perforate the superficial layer of the skin (microdermabrasion) or at least to alter it sufficiently to enable the ingress of liquid more deeply.

[0022] As for the devices not employing needle(s), these repeatedly produce one or more liquid jets, either at high pressure or at high velocity. These liquid jets pass through an orifice of determined dimensions, with the aim of penetrating the superficial layer of the skin over a determined thickness. In the case of these devices, use may be made of a compressed gas, which is of course purified, such as in particular air or carbon dioxide, to produce the jet. Springs or pyrotechnic charges could also be used, for example.

[0023] The depth of penetration of the jet into the superficial layer of the skin is set in particular by the volume projected, the speed at which the projection is performed, the shape of the jet, the viscosity of the liquid injected, if present, and also by the distance of the device with respect to the area to be treated. These characteristics are easily determinable by a person skilled in the art depending on the apparatus used and the manufacturer's recommendations.

[0024] These devices are known from the art, and are actuated for example by means of a motor, a piezoelectric system, a spring, or an expulsion of compressed gas.

[0025] Preferably, the microperforations are created by means of a device equipped with hollow or solid, and preferably hollow, needle(s) or of a needle-free injection device, producing either one or more high-pressure jets or one or more high-velocity jets.

[0026] Preferably, the first step is carried out by means of needle(s) or jet(s) of liquid making it possible to obtain microperforations in the skin of a depth of greater than 10 µm, more particularly of greater than 50 µm. Advantageously, the depth of the microperforations is at most 500 µm, more particularly at most 250 µm, and more particularly still at most 150 µm.

[0027] The microperforations may be obtained by means of a single needle or a single jet of liquid that is moved during the first step over the area to be treated. They may be obtained by means of several needles arranged in a line or defining overall geometric shapes (for example triangle, square, parallelepiped, circle, etc.) optionally moved during operation. 3 to 9 needles may thus be associated together, depending on the desired result.

[0028] By way of example, the circumference of the needles may range from 50 to 500 µm and more particularly from 80 to 200 µm.

[0029] Reference may for example be made to the general descriptions of devices with needles in patent US10052469, microneedles in patent application WO01 / 91846, and needle-free devices in patents US6689095 and US5840062.

[0030] This first step is carried out by positioning the device over or near to the area to be treated, according to the manufacturer's recommendations, and actuating the device so as to produce the microperforations. The device is then moved along said area, according to the desired path.

[0031] This operation is advantageously carried out on the skin, of the face and / or of the body, irrespective of whether or not this is covered with keratin fibres such as bodily hair or head hair. Thus, the process according to the invention can be carried out in the area of the eyebrows, whether these are fully or partially epilated or not epilated, and the area of the scalp, whether or not this is covered with head hair.

[0032] The process according to the invention can also be carried out on the lips and / or the contour thereof, if appropriate also the skin in the vicinity of the contour of the lips.

[0033] The process according to the invention could also be carried out in the vicinity of the eyes, more particularly the under-eye area (of the type of shadows under the eyes) and the eyelids.

[0034] The first step of the process according to the invention is preferably carried out on keratin material that is not made up (in other words, on keratin material devoid of a topical makeup composition that is intended not to be rinsed off).

[0035] Preferably, the first step is carried out in the absence of colouring agent, dissolved or otherwise, or if such colouring agents are present, then the content thereof is such that the colour of the skin and / or the lips is substantially unmodified. Preferably, the first step is not carried out in the presence of colouring agent.

[0036] The term "substantially unmodified" is understood to mean that the measurement of the ΔE obtained according to the protocol below remains less than or equal to 2, more particularly less than or equal to 1.Protocol:

[0037] The measurements are carried out using a CM600d colorimeter from the company Konica Minolta in the CIELab 76 system (illuminant D65, SCI, 10° observer).

[0038] A surface of pig ear skin with homogeneous colour is determined, of which the L*0, a*0, b*0coordinates are measured.

[0039] An appropriate amount of first composition is applied to said area (homogeneous thickness of the deposit of around 50 µm), the composition is left to dry for 12 hours and the L*1, a*1, b*1coordinates of the treated area are measured.

[0040] The variation of the colouration is evaluated by calculation of the ΔE according to the following formula: ΔE = [(L*1-L*0)² + (a*1-a*0)² + (b*1-b*0)²]1 / 2.

[0041] Thus, and this represents an advantage of the process according to the invention, the creation of the microperforations could possibly "go beyond the edges" of the area to be treated, intentionally or otherwise. Specifically, since this first step does not colour the skin or does not substantially colour the skin, it is not necessary for the path to be perfectly created nor created solely over the area it is desired to make up in the remainder of the process.

[0042] The first step may advantageously be carried out in the presence of a first liquid composition (hereinafter referred to as first composition) comprising at least one liquid solvent and / or at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil capable of dissolving at least one hydrophobic colorant present in the colouring composition of the second step. The solvents, oils and hydrophobic colorants will be detailed further below in the description. It should be noted that the solvent(s) and the volatile or nonvolatile oil(s) may be completely or partially the same as that / those of the colouring composition of the second step. Preferably, this first composition does not comprise any colouring agent.

[0043] Thus, in the case where the first step is carried out by means of an apparatus equipped with needle(s) or with an abrasive applicator, then the needle(s) or the applicator is / are impregnated with the first composition in a conventional manner and according to the apparatus used. By way of example, the needles may be immersed in the first composition just before use, and as many times as needed over the course of carrying out the first step of the process according to the invention. The first composition could also be conducted from a tank comprising it, to the end of the needle in contact with the keratin materials, by means of an internal channel, for the case of hollow needles.

[0044] It is also possible to apply the first composition prior to creating the microperforations. In such a case, the perforations are created while the first composition has not yet dried.

[0045] If the first step is carried out by means of a needle-free device, then the first composition may advantageously be used as the liquid constituting the jet(s).SECOND STEP

[0046] Once the microperforations have been made in the superficial layer of the skin in the area to be made up, a colouring composition, preferably a liquid colouring composition, comprising at least one hydrophobic colorant, is applied over all or part of said area.

[0047] Advantageously, the time elapsed between the first step and the second step ranges from a few seconds to 30 minutes. More particularly, the time is determined such that the perforations made in the preceding step have not closed back up.HYDROPHOBIC COLORANTS

[0048] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophobic colorant" is understood to mean a compound in particular intended to colour the composition and the resulting deposit, having a solubility in water, at a pH of 7 ± 0.5 at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 105 Pa), of less than 300 mg / l.

[0049] Among the colorants that may be used within the context of the present invention, mention may be made of Solvent Green 7 (CI 59040); Pigment Green 8 (CI 10006); Solvent Green 7 (CI 59040); Solvent Green 3 (CI 61565); Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260); Chlorophyllin copper complex (CI 75810); Pigment Red 68 (CI 15525); Pigment Red 51 (CI 15580); Pigment Red 49 (CI 15630); Pigment Red 64 (CI 15800); Pigment Red 49:2 (CI 15850); Pigment Red 48:4 (CI 15865); Pigment Red 63:1 (CI 15880); D&C Red 21 or 22 (CI 45380); D&C Red 36 (CI 12085); Acid Red 98 (CI 45405); D&C Red 27 or 28 (CI 45410); Acid Red 95 (CI 45425); Acid Red 95 (CI 45430); Acid Red 51 (CI 45430); Solvent Red 3 (CI 12010); Pigment Red 3 (CI 12120); Pigment Red 4 (CI 12085); Pigment Red 112 (CI 12370); Pigment Red 7 (CI 12420); Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490); Pigment Red 51 (CI 15580); Pigment Red 49 (CI 15630); Pigment Red 64:1 (CI 15800); Pigment Red 57 (CI 15850); Pigment Red 48 (CI 15865); Pigment Red 63 (CI 15880); Solvent Red 23 (CI 26100); Solvent Red 72 (CI 45370); Pigment Red 83 (CI 58000); VAT Red 1 (CI 73360); Pigment Red 122 (CI 73915); apo-8'-carotenoic acid (CI 40820); β-carotene (CI 40800); 8'-apo-β-caroten-8'-al (CI 40820); ethyl 8'-apo-β-caroten-8'-oate (CI 40825); canthaxanthin (CI 40850); Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370); D&C Orange No. 2 (CI 45396); Natural Orange 4 (CI 75120); Direct Orange 46 (CI 40215); Pigment Orange 1 (CI 11725); Solvent Orange 16 (CI 45396); VAT Orange 7 (CI 71105); Pigment Yellow 115 (CI 47005); crocetin (CI 75100); Pigment Yellow 3 (CI 11710); Pigment Yellow 6 (CI 11680); Solvent Yellow 16 (CI 12700); Pigment Yellow 16 (CI 20040); Pigment Yellow 13 (CI 21100); Pigment Yellow 83 (CI 21108); Solvent Yellow 29 (CI 21230); Solvent Yellow 33 (CI 47000); lycopene (CI 75125); rubixanthin (CI 75135); curcumin (CI 75300); VAT Blue 4 (CI 69800); VAT Blue 6 (CI 69825); VAT Blue 1 (CI 73000); phthalocyanine (CI 74100); Pigment Blue 15 (CI 74160); Pigment Brown 1 (CI 12480); Solvent Violet 23 (CI 50325); Pigment Violet 23 (CI 51319); Disperse Violet 27 (CI 60724); Solvent Violet 13 (CI 60725); Pigment Violet 36 (CI 73385); Pigment Violet 19 (CI 73900); and also mixtures thereof.

[0050] More particularly, the colouring composition used in the context of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic colorant at least partially dissolved in said composition.

[0051] Preferably, the hydrophobic colorant is not in a form deposited on a substrate. As examples of substrate on which the colorants may be adsorbed, mention may in particular be made of alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium, and equally natural or synthetic mica and titanium oxide-coated mica.

[0052] The hydrophobic colorants are therefore preferably not in the form of lakes or pearlescent agents.

[0053] In accordance with an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the colouring composition comprises at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferentially still from 1% to 5% by weight, of hydrophobic colorant(s), relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.

[0054] More preferentially, the colouring composition comprises at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferentially still from 1% to 5% by weight, of hydrophobic colorant(s) dissolved in the colouring composition, relative to the total weight of the colouring composition (measured at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure).COMPOSITIONS

[0055] The colouring composition used in the second step, where applicable the first composition if it is used during the first step, comprises at least one first liquid compound chosen from solvents and / or oils which will be detailed below.

[0056] The colouring composition according to the invention is preferably in a fluid form. The term "fluid" is understood to mean a composition that adopts the shape of its container at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. It should also be noted that a fluid composition is a composition having a viscosity that can be measured using a Rheomat RM100 viscometer sold by the company Lamy Rheology.

[0057] The colouring composition may be in the form of an anhydrous composition or a composition comprising at most 5% by weight of water, preferably at most 1% by weight, and more preferentially still at most 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the colouring composition. It may also be in an emulsified form, of water-in-oil or oil-in-water type, and more particularly in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0058] Preferably, the first composition is in the form of an anhydrous composition or a composition comprising at most 5% by weight of water, preferably at most 1% by weight, and more preferentially still at most 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.First liquid compoundSolvents

[0059] According to a first embodiment, the solvent(s) are compounds that are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 105 Pa), which make it possible to dissolve more than 300 mg / l of at least one or more of the hydrophobic colorants present in the colouring composition. In particular, they are chosen from dimethyl isosorbide; propylene carbonate; from hydroxylated solvents, more particularly chosen from monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as in particular ethanol, propanol, isopropanol; from C2-C8polyols that are liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising from 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups, and also the corresponding methyl and ethyl ethers, such as for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol; the corresponding methyl and ethyl ethers; and also mixtures thereof.

[0060] Preferably, the solvent is chosen from dimethyl isosorbide, propylene carbonate, ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, butylene glycol, 2,3-butanediol, and also mixtures thereof.Volatile or nonvolatile oils

[0061] According to a second variant of the invention, the colouring composition, and / or where applicable the first composition, comprises at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil, chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils; saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30liquid alcohols, ester hydrocarbon-based oils; ether hydrocarbon-based oils other than the abovementioned solvents; carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils; and also mixtures thereof.

[0062] The term "oil" denotes liquid compounds that are immiscible in water (solubility of less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferentially still less than 0.1% by weight) at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 105 Pa).

[0063] The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil the vapour pressure of which at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure (OECD 104 standard).

[0064] The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a non-zero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13 000 Pa, and more particularly ranging to 1300 Pa.

[0065] Preferably, the oil(s) are chosen from compounds which make it possible to dissolve more than 300 mg / l of at least one or more of the hydrophobic colorants present in the colouring composition.Non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils

[0066] According to a first embodiment, the oil is chosen from volatile or nonvolatile, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and preferably nonaromatic, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils. Preferably, these oils are chosen from saturated compounds.

[0067] More particularly, the non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils are oils comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (also called hydrocarbons).

[0068] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and in particular:

[0069] - branched C8-C16alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names,

[0070] - linear alkanes, for example linear C11-C15alkanes, alone or as mixtures, and

[0071] - mixtures thereof.

[0072] The linear or branched nonvolatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil(s) may be of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, such as for example:

[0073] - liquid paraffin,

[0074] - squalane, preferably of plant origin,

[0075] - isoeicosane,

[0076] - mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly of C15-C28, such as the mixtures the INCI names of which are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-C21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-C28 Alkane (INCI name), for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,

[0077] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, such as for example products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers,

[0078] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as for example the nonvolatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil & Fats,

[0079] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, such as for example the nonvolatile compounds of the Puresyn® range sold by the company ExxonMobil,

[0080] - and mixtures thereof.Liquid alcohols

[0081] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the liquid alcohols are more particularly C8-C30, preferably C10-C26, alcohols, preferably monoalcohols that are saturated or unsaturated and liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.Ester hydrocarbon-based oils

[0082] According to a third embodiment of the invention, the colouring composition, and / or where applicable the first composition, comprises at least one ester hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0083] The ester hydrocarbon-based oils comprise at least one ester group in their structure (-C(=O)OR, R being an at least monovalent hydrocarbon-based group).

[0084] As regards the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils of ester type, mention may be made of:

[0085] - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR’ in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or neopentyl glycol, the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10. Mention may in particular be made, as examples of such esters, of cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate or tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate;

[0086] - hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;

[0087] - aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15alkyl benzoates, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, or butyloctyl salicylate;

[0088] - linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;

[0089] - esters of C24-C28branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate);

[0090] - the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer; the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer fatty acid and of dimer diol, such as the product with the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate;

[0091] - mixtures thereof.

[0092] Among the ester oils, plant oils are also suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0093] Examples of suitable plant oils that may be mentioned include castor oil, lesquerella oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, dog rose oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, wheat germ oil, maize oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, candlenut oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.

[0094] Preferably, the plant oil(s) are chosen from castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.Ether or carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils

[0095] In accordance with a fourth embodiment, the colouring composition, and / or where applicable the first composition, comprises at least one ether or carbonate hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0096] As regards the ether oils other than the solvents of this type described above, mention may be made of the oils of the formula ROR’ in which the R, R’ groups, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based group comprising less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably of C3-C16, preferably of C6-C16. For example, mention may be made of dicaprylyl ether.

[0097] As regards the carbonate oils, these correspond more particularly to the formula RO(CO)OR’ in which the R, R’ groups, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based group comprising less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably of C3-C16, preferably of C6-C16. For example, mention may be made of dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-C15dialkyl carbonate, and also mixtures thereof.

[0098] More particularly, the content of solvent(s) and / or of oil(s) mentioned above (first liquid compound(s)) is between 10% and 99.9% by weight, preferably between 15% and 99% by weight, more particularly between 30% and 90% by weight, and more preferentially still between 30% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.

[0099] If one or more first liquid compounds are used during the first step of the process according to the invention, then the content thereof can represent up to 100% by weight of the first composition.

[0100] Preferably, the colouring composition comprises, as solvent, at least dimethyl isosorbide, ethanol, propylene glycol, propylene carbonate, alone or as mixtures, and optionally at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil, chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils; saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30liquid alcohols; ester hydrocarbon-based oils; ether hydrocarbon-based oils other than the abovementioned solvents; carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils; and also mixtures thereof. Preferably, the colouring composition comprises, as solvent, at least dimethyl isosorbide, ethanol, propylene glycol, propylene carbonate, alone or as mixtures, and optionally at least one nonvolatile oil, chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30liquid alcohols, such as for example octyldodecanol; ester, especially linear ester, hydrocarbon-based oils, such as for example oleyl erucate; and also mixtures thereof.

[0101] In addition, if the first step of the process according to the invention is carried out in the presence of a first composition, then the latter comprises, as solvent, at least dimethyl isosorbide, ethanol, propylene glycol, propylene carbonate, alone or as mixtures, and optionally at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil, chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils; saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30liquid alcohols; ester hydrocarbon-based oils; ether hydrocarbon-based oils other than the abovementioned solvents; carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils; and also mixtures thereof. Preferably, the first composition comprises at least dimethyl isosorbide, ethanol, propylene glycol and / or propylene carbonate, and optionally at least one nonvolatile oil, chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30liquid alcohols, such as for example octyldodecanol; ester, especially linear ester, hydrocarbon-based oils, such as for example oleyl erucate; and also mixtures thereof. Very advantageously, the first composition comprises the volatile or nonvolatile oil(s) and / or solvent(s), present in the colouring composition, in full or in part.Lipophilic thickener

[0102] The colouring composition, and optionally the first composition, may also comprise at least one lipophilic thickener chosen from silicas which may or may not be hydrophobically treated; clays which may or may not be hydrophobically treated; dextrin esters; styrene / olefin block copolymers; alone or as a mixture.Silicas

[0103] Among the suitable silicas, mention may be made of fumed silicas, preferably hydrophobic fumed silicas, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0104] a) Fumed silica

[0105] Fumed silica which has been hydrophobically surface treated is suitable for use in the invention. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is possible in particular to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

[0106] The hydrophobic groups may be:

[0107] - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot;

[0108] - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.

[0109] b) Silica aerogels

[0110] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0111] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0112] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, better still from 1 to 1000 µm, preferably from 1 to 100 µm, in particular from 1 to 30 µm, more preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

[0113] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 µm, preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

[0114] The specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

[0115] The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 2000 particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0116] According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

[0117] The aerogels are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

[0118] The term "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean any silica of which the surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0119] As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles which have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7 470 725.

[0120] Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

[0121] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0122] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

[0123] Use will preferably be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.Clays

[0124] Also suitable as lipophilic thickener are natural or synthetic clays.

[0125] Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] Mention may thus be made of hectorites modified with a quaternary amine, more specifically with a C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium halide, such as a chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as for example that sold under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company Elementis; stearalkonium hectorites such as Bentone 27, disteardimonium hectorites, such as Bentone Gel ISD V, sold by the company Elementis.

[0127] Mention may also be made of quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 34 by the company Elementis, Claytone 40 by the company Southern Clay and Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; or quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by the company Southern Clay.

[0128] Preferably, the clays are chosen in particular from hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium halide, in particular chloride, such as the hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, or also bentone gels, in particular disteardimonium hectorite in isododecane in particular.Dextrin esters

[0129] The lipophilic thickener may also be chosen from dextrin esters, more particularly an ester of dextrin and of a preferably C8-C30fatty acid.

[0130] More particularly, the fatty acid ester of dextrin corresponds to formula (I):

[0131]

[0132] in which:

[0133] - the radicals R1, R2and R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 30, in particular from 8 to 22, or even 12-18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of said radicals R1, R2or R3is other than hydrogen,

[0134] - n is an integer between 3 and 150, in particular 10 and 100 and preferably 15-40.

[0135] Preferably, the three radicals R1, R2and R3are other than hydrogen, thereby resulting in dextrin esters of formula (II) below:

[0136]

[0137] in which

[0138] the radicals R'1, R'2and R'3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 30, in particular 8 to 22, more particularly 12-18 carbon atoms,

[0139] - n is an integer between 3 and 150, in particular 10 and 100 and preferably 15-40.

[0140] In particular, the radicals -OCOR'1, -OCOR'2 and / or -OCOR'3 may be chosen from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoarachic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic and stearolic radicals, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, notably under the name Rheopearl from the company Chiba Flour Milling Co.Styrene / olefin block copolymers

[0142] Use may also be made, as thickener, of at least one optionally hydrogenated block copolymer obtained by polymerization of styrene and of at least one olefin comprising from 2, 3 or up to 5 carbon atoms and having one or two ethylenic unsaturations.

[0143] Advantageously, the copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

[0144] The block copolymer used in the present invention may be a diblock copolymer, a triblock copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

[0145] The copolymer may similarly be in a hydrogenated form to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after the polymerization of the monomers.

[0146] In particular, the copolymer used in the invention is an optionally hydrogenated copolymer with styrene blocks and ethylene / C3-C4 alkylene blocks, or an optionally hydrogenated copolymer with styrene blocks and isoprene blocks.

[0147] More particularly, said optionally hydrogenated block copolymer is obtained by polymerization of styrene and of at least one olefin chosen from ethylene, propylene, butadiene and isoprene; preferably by polymerization of styrene and of at least one olefin chosen from ethylene, propylene and butylene. The block polymer is preferably hydrogenated.

[0148] As preferably hydrogenated block copolymers, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene diblock copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers or styrene-isoprene copolymers. Also suitable are preferably hydrogenated triblock copolymers, more particularly chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers and styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers.

[0149] Such copolymers are described in the patent US5221534.

[0150] Polymers are notably sold under the name Kraton G1701E, and also those sold under the names Kraton G1650, Kraton 1652, Kraton G1657M, Kraton D1101, Kraton D1102, Kraton D1160, by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0151] When the colouring composition comprises any, the content of lipophilic thickener(s) more particularly represents from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.

[0152] As regards the first composition, if the latter comprises at least one thickener, then the content thereof is such that the viscosity of the first composition is compatible with the implementation of the first step. Preferably, the first composition does not comprise any lipophilic thickener.Fillers

[0153] The colouring composition, and / or where applicable the first composition, may optionally comprise one or more fillers conventionally used in compositions for making up the skin and / or the lips. It should be noted that the fillers are neither pigments nor pearlescent agents.

[0154] These fillers are colourless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0155] These fillers, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, give the composition containing them softness and give the makeup result a matt effect and uniformity. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to combat various attacking factors such as sebum or sweat.

[0156] As illustrations of these fillers, mention may be made of mica, silica, kaolin, powders of poly- -alanine and of polyethylene, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauroyllysine, starch, modified starch (in particular starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride, in particular in metal salt form, such as aluminium for example), boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), and of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Use may also be made of particles, which have the shape of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP2003-128788 and JP2000-191789.

[0157] In particular, if the colouring composition comprises such fillers, they may be present in a content ranging from 0.3% to less than 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0158] As regards the first composition, if the latter comprises at least one filler, then the content thereof is such that the viscosity of the first composition is compatible with the implementation of the first step. Preferably, the first composition does not comprise any filler.Additional colouring agents

[0159] The colouring composition according to the invention may optionally comprise, in addition to the hydrophobic colorant(s) described above, at least one additional, preferably solid, colouring agent.

[0160] More particularly, the additional colouring agent may be chosen from pearlescent agents or pigments.

[0161] It should be noted that the first composition does not comprise this type of compound.Pearlescent agents

[0162] The term "pearlescent agents" should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

[0163] The pearlescent agents may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic dye and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or of organic colouring agents.

[0164] Examples of pearlescent agents that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

[0165] The pearlescent agents may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and / or coppery colour or tint.

[0166] Among the pearlescent agents available on the market, mention may be made of the Timica, Flamenco, Cloisonne, Chromalite and Duochrome (mica-based) pearlescent agents sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron, Colorona and Microna pearlescent agents sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based pearlescent agents sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based pearlescent agents sold by the company Sun Chemical.

[0167] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the pearlescent agents are chosen from those with an average particle size (corresponding to the D50 (average diameter, measured by laser particle size analysis or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art)) of at least 70 µm, preferably of at least 100 µm.

[0168] As a guide, if the composition contains any, such pearlescent agents may be present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, in particular between 0.01% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Pigments

[0169] The colouring composition may optionally comprise at least one pigment.

[0170] The term "pigments" is understood to mean white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous and / or oily medium, and which are intended to colour and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and / or organic.

[0171] These pigments may be coated or uncoated mineral pigments.

[0172] Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, titanium oxides and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder.

[0173] These pigments may also be organic pigments.

[0174] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0175] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0176] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder providing the fixing of the organic pigments to the core.

[0177] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" is understood to mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed or precipitated onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0178] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0179] Advantageously, the pigments may have been subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.

[0180] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen, for example, from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0182] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0183] Hydrophobically treated pigments are notably described in patent application EP 1 086 683.

[0184] Mention may be made, among the organic dyes, of cochineal carmine.

[0185] Mention may also be made of the products, and also the lakes thereof, known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0186] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

[0187] As a guide, if the colouring composition comprises any, the content of pigments may range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.Usual additives

[0188] The colouring composition, and / or where applicable the first composition, may also comprise any customary cosmetic ingredient, this being able to be chosen in particular from volatile or nonvolatile silicone oils; waxes; pasty compounds; silicone or non-silicone film-forming polymers; surfactants; moisturizers (also called humectants), other than the abovementioned polyols; antioxidants; fragrances; preservatives; neutralizers; sunscreens; sweeteners; vitamins; free-radical scavengers; sequestrants; and mixtures thereof.

[0189] The contents of these ingredients are easily determinable by a person skilled in the art, and are such that the properties of the compositions allow their use in accordance with the process according to the invention.

[0190] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0191] The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.

[0192] In addition, the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0193] The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples presented below.

[0194] The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name.EXAMPLESExample 1

[0195] Colouring composition:A solution comprising 3% by weight of Red 36 in dimethyl isosorbide is prepared.

[0196] Device:A Dermograph apparatus from the company Biotic Phocea is used; position 3; needle Safety cartridge 7 round dermaderm; Frequency: 100 hits / min. The operation is carried out on pig ear skin.Comparative process and results:

[0197] 1)Application of the colouring composition:The colouring solution is applied to two samples of pig ear skin using a conventional lip gloss-type applicator with a fully flocked end piece, in a deposit with homogeneous thickness, and is left to dry for two hours at ambient temperature.

[0198] 2)Rinsing:The skin thus treated is rinsed according to the two protocols below:

[0199] a) Rinsing with water: the pig skin thus treated is passed under running tap water for 5 seconds while rubbing it. The skin is then dried with a paper tissue without rubbing.

[0200] b) Rinsing with a surfactant composition (Crème Mains Ecologique, flax flower fragrance; Idegreen): a few grams of compositions are applied to the skin and the skin is rubbed for 5 seconds, then the whole is rinsed under running tap water (for between 5 and 10 seconds) and dried by applying a paper tissue without rubbing.

[0201] 3)Results:It is observed that barely visible colouring remains on the skin.Process according to the invention and results:

[0202] 1)Step 1:5 horizontal and vertical passes are carried out using the device detailed above, on two samples of pig ear skin, so as to form a grid pattern on the area to be made up during the second step. The skin thus treated retains the same colouration.

[0203] 2)Step 2:Immediately after the first step, a homogeneous deposit of the colouring composition is applied over the area of each sample of pig ear skin treated previously, using a conventional lip gloss-type applicator with a fully flocked end piece. The composition is left to dry for one hour at ambient temperature.

[0204] 3)Rinsing:One sample is then rinsed according to protocol a) and the other according to protocol b), detailed above.

[0205] 4)Results:An intense persistent orange-red colouring is observed in the form of the grid pattern obtained in the first step of the process, despite a drying time of just one hour.Example 2

[0206] Composition:A solution comprising 3% by weight of Red 36 in propylene glycol is prepared.

[0207] Device:A Dermograph apparatus from the company Biotic Phocea is used; position 3; needle Safety cartridge 7 round dermaderm; Frequency: 100 hits / min.Process:

[0208] 1)Step 1:a coat of propylene glycol is applied with a brush to two samples of pig ear skin, and then, prior to drying, 5 horizontal and vertical passes are carried out using the device detailed above, so as to form a grid pattern on the area to be made up during the second step. The skin thus treated retains the same colouration.

[0209] 2)Step 2:Immediately after the first step, a homogeneous deposit of the colouring solution is applied over the area of each sample of pig ear skin treated previously, using a conventional lip gloss-type applicator with a fully flocked end piece. The composition is left to dry for one hour at ambient temperature.

[0210] 3)Rinsing:One sample is then rinsed according to protocol a) and the other according to protocol b), detailed above.

[0211] 4)Results:A persistent orange-red colouring that is even more intense than that for Example 1 is observed in the form of the grid pattern obtained in the first step of the process, despite a drying time of just one hour.

Claims

Process for making up an area of human keratin material such as the skin or the lips, in which the following steps are carried out in succession:a) microperforations are created mechanically in the superficial layer of the skin in the area to be coloured,b) a colouring composition, preferably a liquid colouring composition, comprising at least one hydrophobic colorant, is then applied over all or part of the area exhibiting the microperforations.Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the microperforations are created by means of a device equipped with hollow or solid needle(s), of a needle-free injection device, producing either one or more high-pressure jets or one or more high-velocity jets, or of a device provided with abrasive particles at the surface of an applicator.Process according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the needles or the jets make it possible to obtain perforations in the skin of a depth of greater than 10 µm, advantageously of at most 500 µm, more particularly of at most 250 µm, and more particularly still of at most 150 µm.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first step is carried out in the absence of colouring agent, dissolved or otherwise, or if such colouring agents are present, then the content thereof is such that the keratin material treated, in particular the skin and / or the lips, is not substantially modified.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first step is carried out on keratin material that is not made up.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the time elapsed between the first step and the second step ranges from a few seconds to 30 minutes.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring composition comprises at least one hydrophobic colorant having a solubility in water, at a pH of 7 ± 0.5 at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, of less than 300 mg / l.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring composition comprises at least one hydrophobic colorant chosen from Solvent Green 7 (CI 59040); Pigment Green 8 (CI 10006); Solvent Green 7 (CI 59040); Solvent Green 3 (CI 61565); Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260); Chlorophyllin copper complex (CI 75810); Pigment Red 68 (CI 15525); Pigment Red 51 (CI 15580); Pigment Red 49 (CI 15630); Pigment Red 64 (CI 15800); Pigment Red 49:2 (CI 15850); Pigment Red 48:4 (CI 15865); Pigment Red 63:1 (CI 15880); D&C Red 21 or 22 (CI 45380); D&C Red 36 (CI 12085); Acid Red 98 (CI 45405); D&C Red 27 or 28 (CI 45410); Acid Red 95 (CI 45425); Acid Red 95 (CI 45430); Acid Red 51 (CI 45430); Solvent Red 3 (CI 12010); Pigment Red 3 (CI 12120); Pigment Red 4 (CI 12085); Pigment Red 112 (CI 12370); Pigment Red 7 (CI 12420); Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490); Pigment Red 51 (CI 15580); Pigment Red 49 (CI 15630); Pigment Red 64:1 (CI 15800); Pigment Red 57 (CI 15850); Pigment Red 48 (CI 15865); Pigment Red 63 (CI 15880); Solvent Red 23 (CI 26100); Solvent Red 72 (CI 45370); Pigment Red 83 (CI 58000); VAT Red 1 (CI 73360); Pigment Red 122 (CI 73915); apo-8'-carotenoic acid (CI 40820); β-carotene (CI 40800); 8'-apo-β-caroten-8'-al (CI 40820); ethyl 8'-apo-β-caroten-8'-oate (CI 40825); canthaxanthin (CI 40850); Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370); D&C Orange No. 2 (CI 45396); Natural Orange 4 (CI 75120); Direct Orange 46 (CI 40215); Pigment Orange 1 (CI 11725); Solvent Orange 16 (CI 45396); VAT orange 7 (CI 71105); Pigment Yellow 115 (CI 47005); crocetin (CI 75100); Pigment Yellow 3 (CI 11710); Pigment Yellow 6 (CI 11680); Solvent Yellow 16 (CI 12700); Pigment Yellow 16 (CI 20040); Pigment Yellow 13 (CI 21100); Pigment Yellow 83 (CI 21108); Solvent Yellow 29 (CI 21230); Solvent Yellow 33 (CI 47000); lycopene (CI 75125); rubixanthin (CI 75135); curcumin (CI 75300); VAT Blue 4 (CI 69800); VAT Blue 6 (CI 69825); VAT Blue 1 (CI 73000); phthalocyanine (CI 74100); Pigment Blue 15 (CI 74160); Pigment Brown 1 (CI 12480); Solvent Violet 23 (CI 50325); Pigment Violet 23 (CI 51319); Disperse Violet 27 (CI 60724); Solvent Violet 13 (CI 60725); Pigment Violet 36 (CI 73385); Pigment Violet 19 (CI 73900); and also mixtures thereof.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring composition comprises at least one hydrophobic colorant at least partially dissolved in said colouring composition.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring composition comprises at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferentially still from 1% to 5% by weight, of hydrophobic colorant(s), relative to the total weight of said colouring composition.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferentially still from 1% to 5% by weight, of hydrophobic colorant(s) dissolved in the composition, relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring composition comprises at least one liquid solvent chosen from dimethyl isosorbide; propylene carbonate; from hydroxylated solvents, more particularly chosen from monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as in particular ethanol, propanol, isopropanol; from C2-C8polyols that are liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising from 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups, and also the corresponding methyl and ethyl ethers; the liquid solvent is preferably chosen from dimethyl isosorbide, propylene carbonate, ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, butylene glycol, 2,3-butanediol, and also mixtures thereof.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring composition comprises at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil, chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils; saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30liquid alcohols; ester hydrocarbon-based oils; ether hydrocarbon-based oils other than the abovementioned solvents; carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils; and also mixtures thereof.Process according to either one of Claims 12 and 13, characterized in that the content of solvent(s) and / or of oil(s) mentioned above is between 10% and 99.9% by weight, preferably between 15% and 99% by weight, more particularly between 30% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring composition is in an anhydrous form or a form comprising less than 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first step is carried out in the presence of a first liquid composition comprising at least one liquid solvent and / or at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil capable of dissolving at least one hydrophobic colorant present in the colouring composition.Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first composition does not comprise any colouring agent.

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