Non-sticky stable composition with texture transformation property
A cosmetic composition combining amphiphilic polymers, polysaccharides from microorganisms, and low HLB polyglyceryl fatty acid esters addresses the challenge of achieving texture transformation and non-stickiness, while ensuring stability and comfort.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/JP2024/080193
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-27
- Filing Date
- 2024-11-07
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions struggle to provide both texture transformation during application and a non-sticky or reduced sticky feeling after application, while maintaining stability over time and under temperature changes.
A composition comprising at least one amphiphilic polymer with hydrophilic and hydrophobic units, one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms, and one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, which works together to achieve texture transformation and reduce stickiness.
The composition effectively transforms texture during application, providing a refreshing feel, and ensures a non-sticky or reduced sticky sensation after application, while maintaining stability over time and under varying temperatures.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION
[0003] NON-STICKY STABLE COMPOSITION
[0004] WITH TEXTURE TRANSFORMATION PROPERTY
[0005] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0006] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, which is stable and can provide texture transformation as well as non-stickiness.
[0007] BACKGROUND ART
[0008] Imparting a comfortable texture to skin is one of the key features of cosmetic products, in particular skincare cosmetic products.
[0009] In particular, texture transformation (change in texture from, for example, a gel or cream to a liquid, which corresponds to the change in physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the structure of the composition which could allow liquid to flow out from the composition) which could provide a refreshing feel at the early stage of application, as well as a non-sticky feeling or a reduced sticky feeling after application, are still needed for consumer satisfaction on use.
[0010] It should be noted that a composition which is unstable and easily causes a collapse of the structure of the composition often provides a comfortable feel on use. This means that it is difficult to provide both a comfortable feel on use and good stability at the same time.
[0011] So far, several technologies regarding gel-like compositions or emulsion compositions which impart an improved texture and stability have been reported. For example, WO2022 / 124385 discloses a stable composition which can provide texture transformation.
[0012] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0013] However, sufficient investigations have not yet been made for stable compositions which can provide no or reduced sticky feeling after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.
[0014] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can provide no or reduced sticky feeling after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.
[0015] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:
[0016] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit;
[0017] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms; and
[0018] (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
[0019] The (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit may be made of C8-30alkyl (meth)aciylate and at least one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and esters thereof.
[0020] The (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit may be crosslinked.
[0021] The (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit may be selected from the group consisting of acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / ethylhexyl acrylate crosspolymer, C8-22 alkyl acrylates / methacrylic acid crosspolymer, potassium acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and a mixture thereof.
[0022] The amount of the (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] The (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms may be selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and a mixture thereof.
[0024] The amount of the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof may be selected from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0026] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof may be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl- 4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and a mixture thereof.
[0027] The amount of the (c) poly glyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15 % by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0028] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one lipophilic organic UV filer.
[0029] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one filler.
[0030] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one oil.
[0031] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) water. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.
[0032] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0033] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered a new approach to provide a stable composition which can provide no or reduced sticky feeling after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.
[0034] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition comprising:
[0035] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit;
[0036] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms; and
[0037] (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
[0038] The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide no or reduced sticky feeling after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.
[0039] The composition according to the present invention is stable just after the preparation of the composition and for a long time after the preparation of the composition, even under temperature changes from a cold to hot temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time, and can be stored for a long period of time even under temperature changes occurring from winter to summer.
[0040] The composition according to the present invention can provide no sticky feeling or a reduced sticky feeling, preferably after application.
[0041] The term “sticky” here means a property which provides a tacky feeling to the skin.
[0042] The composition according to the present invention can provide texture transformation during application, preferably at the early stage of application. The texture transformation here means a change in texture from, for example, a gel or cream to a liquid, which corresponds to the change in physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the structure of the composition which could allow liquid to flow out from the composition. The texture transformation can provide refreshing feeling.
[0043] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide an excellent feeling to the touch, in particular on feeling of the skin during and after application of the composition.
[0044] If the composition according to the present invention includes (d) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter and / or (f) at least one oil, the composition may cause oily or greasy feeling and shiny aspect, such as shiny skin, after application, because the (d) lipophilic organic UV filter has properties similar to those of the (f) oil. However, the composition according to the present invention can provide no or reduced oily or greasy feeling, and no or reduced shiny aspect, such as shiny skin, if the composition also includes (e) at least one filler.
[0045] Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention and the like will be explained in a more detailed manner.
[0046] [Composition]
[0047] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:
[0048] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit;
[0049] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms; and
[0050] (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
[0051] (Amphiphilic Polymer)
[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. A single type of such a polymer, or two or more different types of such polymers may be used in combination.
[0053] The (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit (hereafter, may be referred to as simply “associative polymer”) can be an associative polymer. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" refers to homopolymers or copolymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules.
[0054] The (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit can function as an emulsifier.
[0055] The hydrophilic unit of the (a) amphiphilic polymer may have at least one carboxylic acid which may be in the form of a salt. The hydrophilic unit may be derived from (meth)acrylic acid or salts thereof.
[0056] The hydrophobic unit of the (a) amphiphilic polymer may have a fatty chain including 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The hydrophobic unit may be derived from C8-30alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid. It is preferable that the fatty chain be present in a pendent group or a side chain of the (a) amphiphilic polymer.
[0057] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit be hydrophilic such that it is soluble or dispersible in water or in alcohols, in particular chosen from lower alcohols, glycols, polyols.
[0058] For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "hydrophilic" polymer means a (co)polymer that is capable of forming hydrogen bond(s) with water or alcohols, in particular chosen from lower alcohols, glycols, and polyols. In particular, it is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymers be capable of forming O-H and / or N-H and / or S-H bonds.
[0059] The (a) amphiphilic polymer can be obtained by polymerization of monomers essentially consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and salts or esters thereof. Thus, the (a) amphiphilic polymer may be referred to as a (meth)acrylic / acrylate polymer.
[0060] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymer, if not crosslinked, not be made or obtained by using any monomer other than acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and salts or esters thereof.
[0061] The salt of (meth)acrylic acid may be in the form of an inorganic salt such as an alkaline metal salt, an alkaline earth metal salt, or an ammonium salt.
[0062] The ester of (meth)acrylic acid may be selected from alkyl (meth)acrylates and hydroxylalkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0063] In one embodiment, the ester of (meth)acrylic acid may be selected from C1-4alkyl (meth)acrylates, C10-30alkyl (meth)acrylates, hydroxyl C1-4alkyl (meth)acrylates, and hydroxyl C10-30alkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0064] The C1-4alkyl ester of (meth)acrylic acid may be selected from the group consisting of methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, propyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] The hydroxyl C1-4alkyl ester of (meth)acrylic acid may be selected from the group consisting of hydroxymethyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxybutyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0066] The C10-30alkyl (meth)acrylates may be C12-26alkyl (meth)acrylates, and preferably C12-22alkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0067] Examples of (C10-C30) (meth)acrylates include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0068] Examples of hydroxyl (C10-C30) (meth)acrylates include hydroxylauryl acrylate, hydroxystearyl acrylate, hydroxydecyl acrylate, hydroxylisodecyl acrylate, and hydroxydodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, hydroxylauryl methacrylate, hydroxystearyl methacrylate, hydroxydecyl methacrylate, hydroxyisodecyl methacrylate, and hydroxydodecyl methacrylate.
[0069] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymer be made of C10-30alkyl (meth)acrylate and at least one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and esters thereof. As the esters of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, mention may be made of those explained above (except for C10-30alkyl (meth)acrylate).
[0070] For example, the (a) amphiphilic polymer may preferably be made or obtained by the polymerization of the following monomers (I) and (II).
[0071] H2C=C(R1)COOR2(I) H2C=C(R1)COOR3(II) wherein
[0072] R1is chosen from H and CH3, preferably H,
[0073] R2is chosen from C8-30alkyl, preferably C10-26alkyl, and more preferably C12-22alkyl, and R3is chosen from H and C1-4alkyl such as methyl.
[0074] It may be more preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymer be made or obtained by the polymerization of the following monomers (F) and (II).
[0075] H2C=CHCOOR2(F)
[0076] H2C=C(R1)COOR3(II) wherein
[0077] R1is chosen from H and CH3,
[0078] R2is chosen from C8-30alkyl, preferably C10-26alkyl, and more preferably C12-22alkyl, and R3is chosen from H and C1-4alkyl such as methyl.
[0079] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymer be crosslinked.
[0080] The (a) amphiphilic polymer may be chosen from polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:
[0081] (i) (meth)acrylic acid, preferably acrylic acid;
[0082] (ii) the monomer of the above formula (I) in which R1denotes H or CH3, preferably H, and R2denotes an alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
[0083] (iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, allyl ether of sucrose, allyl ether of pentaerythritol, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide. As the allyl ether, for example, a 2 -propenyl group may be mentioned.
[0084] Use will more particularly be made, among copolymers of this type, of those composed of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer or else of those composed of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above.
[0085] The (a) amphiphilic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / ethylhexyl acrylate crosspolymer, C8-22 alkyl acrylates / methacrylic acid crosspolymer, potassium acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and a mixture thereof.
[0086] Preference is very particularly given according to the present invention, among the said polymers above, to acrylate / C10-C30alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-C30Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen® TRI, Pemulen® TR2, Pemulen EZ4U, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer, Carbopol® 1382 and Carbopol® EDT 2020. The (a) amphiphilic polymer can function as a thickener, preferably a hydrophilic thickener.
[0087] The amount of the (a) amphiphilic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0088] On the other hand, the amount of the (a) amphiphilic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] The amount of the (a) amphiphilic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] (Polysaccharide Derived From Microorganisms)
[0091] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms. A single type of such a polysaccharide may be used, or two or more different types of such polysaccharides may be used in combination.
[0092] The (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms means polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germ or bacteria.
[0093] The (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is not polysaccharide derived from plants. It may be preferable that the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms be not based on cellulose.
[0094] As examples of the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms, mention may be made of cardollan, xanthan gum, Jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] It may be preferable that the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms be selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and a mixture thereof.
[0096] It may be more preferable that the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms be sclerotium gum, which is sold under the name of, for example, Actigum CS 11 QD by the company Cargill.
[0097] The amount of the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] The amount of the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] The amount of the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0100] (Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Ester) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof. A single type of such a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, or two or more different types of such polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.
[0101] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
[0102] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof may have an HLB value of 2.0 or more, preferably 2.5 or more, and more preferably 3.0 or more.
[0103] Thus, polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof may have an HLB value of from 2.0 to 7.0, preferably from 2.5 to 6.5, and more preferably from 3.0 to 6.0.
[0104] The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. HLB values can be calculated with the formula HLB=20*(1-S / A), where S is the saponification number of the ester and A is the neutralization number of the fatty acid.
[0105] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof may be selected from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0106] Poly glyceryl polyricinoleates:
[0107] According to an embodiment of the present invention, the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof may be selected from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates.
[0108] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "polyglyceryl polyricinoleate" denotes an ester resulting from the esterification of one or more polyglycerols with at least one polyricinoleic acid. A polyglycerol which is suitable for the present invention may be chosen from the compounds of general formula (I) below: in which n represents an integer between 1 and 11, preferably between 1 and 7, more preferably between 1 and 5, even more preferably between 1 and 2.
[0109] A polyricinoleic acid which is suitable for the present invention may be chosen from the compounds of general formula (II) below: in which m represents an integer between 0 and 10, in particular between 1 and 8, and more particularly between 1 and 5.
[0110] A polyglyceryl polyricinoleate which is suitable for the present invention is a partial ester.
[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "partial ester" is intended to denote a compound in which not all the -OH groups of the poly glycerol units have been esterified with polyricinoleic acid, in other words a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate compound comprising at least one free -OH group on the polyglycerol chain.
[0112] By way of example, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate which is suitable for the present invention may be a compound of general formula (III) below: in which
[0113] R and R' represent, independently, radicals chosen from a hydrogen atom or a polyricinoleate chain, with the proviso that at least one of these R or R' radicals is a hydrogen atom, and that at least one of these R or R' radicals is a polyricinoleate chain, and n represents an integer between 0 and 11, and in particular between 0 and 7, preferably between 0 and 5, even more particularly between 1 and 4.
[0114] By way of example of poly glyceryl polyricinoleates which are most particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may especially be made of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, especially sold by Karlshamns under the name Akoline PGPR, by Stearinerie Dubois Fils under the name DUB PGPR, by Dr. Straetmans under the name Dermofeel PR, by Croda under the name Cr ester PR, by Sasol under the name Imwitor 600 or else by Croda under the name ARLACEL 1690; polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleates sold by Taiyo Kagaku Co. LTD under the name SunSoft 818R and by Nikko Chemicals Co. LTD under the name Hexaglyn PR- 15 or by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co. LTD under the name S-Face CR-1001.
[0115] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the polyglyceryl polyricinoleate may be chosen from polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the polyglyceryl polyricinoleate be polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, which is sold under the name of, for example, SY-Glyster CRS-75 MB by the company Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo.
[0116] Poly glyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids:
[0117] According to an embodiment of the present invention, the (c) poly glyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof may be selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids, i.e., polyglyceryl fatty acid esters comprising at least two, preferably three, different fatty acid moieties. At least one of the fatty acid moieties may be a monovalent carboxylic acid and / or at least one of the fatty acid moieties may be a divalent carboxylic acid.
[0118] The polyglyceryl fatty acid esters comprising at least two different fatty acid moieties may be an ester of polyglycerol derived from 2 to 5 glycerins and of (i) polyhydroxystearic acid such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) and (ii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, divalent carboxylic acid containing 4 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0119] The polyglyceryl fatty acid esters comprising at least three different fatty acid moieties may be an ester of polyglycerol derived from 2 to 5 glycerins and of (i) polyhydroxy stearic acid such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), (ii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, divalent carboxylic acid containing 4 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and (iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent fatty acid containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0120] The polyglyceryl fatty acid esters comprising at least three different fatty acid moieties may be obtained by esterification of a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 units of polyglycerol (preferably 4 units); (ii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, divalent carboxylic acids containing 4 to 18 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid); and (iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent fatty acid containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms (preferably isostearic acid).
[0121] As a preferred example of the poly glyceryl fatty acid esters comprising at least three different fatty acid moieties, mention may be made of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate of the following formula; wherein
[0122] PHS denotes polyhydroxystearic acid, and IS denotes isostearic acid.
[0123] Such a compound is prepared according to application US-A-2005 / 0031580, and sold under the name Isolan GPS® by the company Goldschmidt (Degussa).
[0124] It is preferable that the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and a mixture thereof.
[0125] The amount of the (c) poly glyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1 % by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0126] The amount of the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0127] The amount of the (c) poly glyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0128] (Lipophilic Organic UV Filter)
[0129] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter. A single type of lipophilic organic UV filter may be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic organic UV filter may be used in combination.
[0130] The term “lipophilic organic UV filter” means an organic molecule that is capable of screening out UV radiation, preferably between 290 and 400 nm, and which can be dissolved in or dispersed in a fatty phase, including a fatty substance such as an oil, in order to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous phase. The term “organic molecule” means any molecule comprising in its structure one or more carbon atoms. Thus, the (d) lipophilic organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region.
[0131] The (d) lipophilic organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms “solid” and “liquid” mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm. The (d) lipophilic organic UV filter may be chosen especially from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those mentioned in patent US 5 624 663; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137, and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described especially in patent application WO 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP 0 967200, DE 19746 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980, and EP 133 981; merocyanin derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04 / 006 878, WO 05 / 058 269, WO 06 / 032 741, FR 2 957249, and FR 2 957 250; and mixtures thereof.
[0132] As examples of the (d) lipophilic organic UV filter, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI names:
[0133] Dibenzoylmethane derivative:
[0134] Butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane or avobenzone sold under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,
[0135] Para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives:
[0136] Ethyl PABA,
[0137] Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
[0138] Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name Escalol 507 by ISP,
[0139] Salicylic derivatives:
[0140] Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Symrise,
[0141] Cinnamic derivatives:
[0142] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold especially under the trade name Parsol MCX by DSM
[0143] Nutritional Products,
[0144] Isopropyl methoxycinnamate,
[0145] Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise,
[0146] Cinoxate,
[0147] Diisopropyl methylcinnamate,
[0148] O-Diphenylacrylate derivatives:
[0149] Octocrylene sold especially under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF, Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF,
[0150] Benzophenone derivatives:
[0151] Benzophenone- 1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF,
[0152] Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF,
[0153] Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF,
[0154] Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay,
[0155] Benzophenone- 8 sold under the trade name Spectra- Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid,
[0156] Benzophenone- 12,
[0157] N-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul A+ or in the form of a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name Uvinul A+B by BASF,
[0158] Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:
[0159] 3 -Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD by Chimex,
[0160] 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor sold under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck, Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW by Chimex,
[0161] Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
[0162] Drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie,
[0163] Triazine derivatives:
[0164] Bis-(Ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by BASF,
[0165] Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF,
[0166] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3 V,
[0167] 2.4.6-Tris(dineopentyl 4 ’ -aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
[0168] 2.4.6-Tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
[0169] 2,4-Bis(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,
[0170] - the triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups as those described in EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-
[0171] [(3 - { 1 ,3 ,3 ,3 -tetramethyl- 1 -[(trimethylsilyloxy] disiloxanyl } propyl)amino] -s-triazine,
[0172] Anthranilic derivatives:
[0173] Menthyl Anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Symrise,
[0174] Imidazoline derivatives:
[0175] Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate,
[0176] Benzalmalonate derivatives:
[0177] Dineopentyl 4’ -methoxybenzalmalonate,
[0178] Polyorganosil oxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SEX by DSM,
[0179] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:
[0180] 1 , 1 -dicarboxy(2,2’ -dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,
[0181] Lipophilic merocyanin derivatives:
[0182] - Octyl 5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate and mixtures thereof.
[0183] Preferably, the (d) lipophilic organic UV filter may be chosen from:
[0184] Butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane,
[0185] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,
[0186] Ethylhexyl salicylate,
[0187] Homosalate,
[0188] Butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane,
[0189] Octocrylene,
[0190] Benzophenone-3, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,
[0191] 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor,
[0192] Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine,
[0193] Ethylhexyl triazone,
[0194] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
[0195] 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’ -aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3 - { 1 ,3 ,3,3 -tetramethyl- 1 - [(trimethylsilyloxy] - disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,
[0196] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
[0197] Polysilicone- 15,
[0198] 1 , 1 -dicarboxy(2,2’ -dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, and mixtures thereof.
[0199] More preferably, the (d) lipophilic organic UV filter may be chosen from:
[0200] Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,
[0201] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,
[0202] Octocrylene,
[0203] Ethylhexyl salicylate, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,
[0204] Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine,
[0205] 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]- disiloxanyl } propyl)amino] -s-triazine,
[0206] Ethylhexyl triazone,
[0207] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
[0208] Drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0209] In an embodiment, it may be preferable for the composition according to the present invention to include, as the (d) lipophilic organic UV filter, at least one selected from the group consisting of drometrizole trisiloxane, bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxybenzoylmethane, and a mixture thereof.
[0210] The amount of the (d) lipophilic organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0211] On the other hand, the amount of the (d) lipophilic organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0212] The amount of the (d) lipophilic organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0213] (Filler)
[0214] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one filler. A single type of filler may be used, but two or more different types of fillers may be used in combination. The term "filler" should be understood as meaning a colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic particle which is insoluble in a possible liquid component in the composition according to the present invention, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
[0215] The (e) filler(s) can be inorganic or organic, and can be of spherical or oblong shape, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like). Nonlimiting mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, silica silylate, kaolin, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate and hydroxyapatite, powders formed of polyamide (Nylon®), of poly-β-alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of polyurethane, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauryllysine, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride) / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), particles formed of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
[0216] It is preferable that the (e) filler be selected from the group consisting of silica, starch and a mixture thereof.
[0217] The amount of the (e) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0218] The amount of the (e) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0219] The amount of the (e) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0220] (Oil)
[0221] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.
[0222] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (nonsolid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0223] The (f) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0224] The (f) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols. As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0225] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0226] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0227] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26aliphatic mono alcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0228] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived is branched.
[0229] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0230] Esters of C4-C22dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0231] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0232] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30and preferably C12-C22fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0233] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially allcyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0234] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously, and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30and preferably C12-C22fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0235] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0236] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates.
[0237] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0238] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2- ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0239] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate) .
[0240] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0241] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0242] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0243] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0244] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0245] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
[0246] These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethyl cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of the formula: with D" :
[0247] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 ’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0248] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 * 10"6m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
[0249] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0250] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2 / s; and the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0251] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
[0252] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0253] The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula: in which
[0254] R1to R10, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1- C30hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.
[0255] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.
[0256] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R1to R10are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=1 in the above formula) is preferable.
[0257] The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C5-C19 alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0258] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0259] The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C20alkyl and C12-C20alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0260] As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0261] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0262] Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20alcohols.
[0263] The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
[0264] As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0265] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0266] It is also preferable that the (f) oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600 g / mol.
[0267] Preferably, the (f) oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g / mol, chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C12-C30) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0268] In one embodiment, the (f) oil may be chosen from polar oils, preferably from ester oils, and more preferably ethylhexyl palmitate, artificial triglycerides (e.g., caprylic / capric triglyceride) and a mixture thereof.
[0269] In another embodiment, the oil may be chosen from polar oils and non-polar oils, preferably from ester oils and hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, coco-caprylate / caprate, Cl 5-19 alkane, and a mixture thereof. The amount of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0270] On the other hand, the amount of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0271] The amount of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0272] (Water)
[0273] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) water.
[0274] The amount of (g) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0275] On the other hand, the amount of (g) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0276] The amount of (g) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 35% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0277] (pH)
[0278] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 8.0 or less, preferably 7.5 or less, and more preferably 7.0 or less, which is measured at 25°C.
[0279] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 5.0 or more, preferably 5.5 or more, and more preferably 6.0 or more, which is measured at 25°C.
[0280] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of from 5.0 to 8.0, preferably from 5.5 to 7.5, and more preferably from 6.0 to 7.0, which is measured at 25°C.
[0281] Alkaline Agent:
[0282] The composition according to the present invention, may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
[0283] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the alkaline agent be non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of alkaline metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; and alkaline metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0284] As examples of the inorganic alkaline metal hydroxides, mention may be made of sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. As examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides, mention may be made of calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkaline agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable.
[0285] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.
[0286] As examples of the monoamines, mention may be made of alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl (C1-C4) groups. Particularly, alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2 -methyl- 1,3 -propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3- dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0287] The diamines may be described by the structure (B) below: wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rcand Rdindependently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3 -propanediamine and derivatives thereof.
[0288] The amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0289] On the other hand, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0290] Thus, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0291] Acid:
[0292] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
[0293] The acid may be used to adjust the pH of the composition according to the present invention.
[0294] As the acid, mention may be made of any inorganic or organic acids which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HC1). HC1 may be preferable.
[0295] The amount of the acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0296] On the other hand, the amount of the acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0297] Thus, the amount of the acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0298] [Additional Optional Ingredients]
[0299] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of additional optional ingredient(s), known previously elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, for example, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants; organic powders different from the ingredient (e); thickeners different from the ingredient (a); sequestering agents such as EDTA and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; preserving agents; vitamins or provitamins, for instance, panthenol; fragrances; plant extracts; and so on.
[0300] The composition according to the present invention may include one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, sugar, and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ether, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers.
[0301] The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0302] The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0303] The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from l% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0304] It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises no phospholipids.
[0305] (Preparation and Properties)
[0306] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above. The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means may include a homogenizer, for example a turbine mixer.
[0307] (Form)
[0308] The composition according to the present invention may be in various forms.
[0309] If the composition according to the present invention includes (g) water, the composition according to the present invention may be, for example, a fluid such as an aqueous solution or dispersion. The aspect of the composition according to the present invention in this case may be a gel, because the (a) amphiphilic polymer and / or the (b) polysaccharide may function as a thickener.
[0310] If the composition according to the present invention includes (f) oil and / or (d) lipophilic organic UV filter which may be similar to the (f) oil, and (g) water, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion.
[0311] The composition according to the present invention in the form of an O / W emulsion can comprise dispersed fatty phases such as oil phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases can be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase may be thickened, because the (a) amphiphilic polymer and / or the (b) polysaccharide may function as a thickener. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O / W gel emulsion.
[0312] The O / W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore, the composition according to the present invention with the O / W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant feeling during use because of the feeling of immediate freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
[0313] Further, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a multiple emulsion, such as an O / W / O emulsion or a W / O / W emulsion.
[0314] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention with an O / W architecture or structure may contain a multiple emulsion, such as an O / W / O / W emulsion.
[0315] The aspect of the composition according to the present invention in the form of an emulsion may be a paste or a cream.
[0316] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention have a viscosity of 10,000 mPa's or more, more preferably 15,000 mPa-s or more, and even more preferably 20,000 mPa-s or more. The viscosity can be measured with a B-type viscometer (for example, Rotor: No. 4, Rotation speed: 6 rpm, Measurement time: 1 minute) at 25°C.
[0317] It is also preferable that the composition according to the present invention have a viscosity at 25 °C of 200,000 mPa-s or less, more preferably 150,000 mPa's or less, and even more preferably 100,000 mPa-s or less. It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention have a viscosity at 25°C of from 10,000 mPa-s to 200,000 mPa-s, more preferably from 15,000 mPa-s to 150,000 mPa-s, and even more preferably from 20,000 mPa-s to 100,000 mPa-s.
[0318] [Process and Use]
[0319] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin substance such as skin.
[0320] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratin substance such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by being applied to the keratin substance.
[0321] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, preferably skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.
[0322] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care products, for body and / or facial skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or the hair and / or the nails and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows.
[0323] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as it is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form a cosmetic product.
[0324] The care product may be a lotion, a cream, and the like.
[0325] The composition according to the present invention may be used as a sunscreen if the composition includes (d) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter.
[0326] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit, in a composition comprising:
[0327] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms; and
[0328] (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less, in order to cause texture transformation of the composition when being applied onto a keratin substance such as skin, preferably at the early stage of the application, and / or stabilize the composition.
[0329] The present invention may also relate to a use of (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms, in a composition comprising:
[0330] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit; and
[0331] (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less, in order to cause texture transformation of the composition when being applied onto a keratin substance such as skin, preferably at the early stage of the application, and / or stabilize the composition.
[0332] The present invention may also relate to a use of (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less, in a composition comprising:
[0333] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit; and
[0334] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms, in order to cause texture transformation of the composition when being applied onto a keratin substance such as skin, preferably at the early stage of the application.
[0335] It is preferable that the amount of the (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the poly glyceryl moiety with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less, in the composition according to the present invention be 0.5% by weight or les, more preferably 0.4% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight or less, in order for the composition to provide less sticky feeling to the touch.
[0336] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention include (d) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter.
[0337] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention include (e) at least one filler.
[0338] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention include (f) at least one oil.
[0339] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention include (g) water.
[0340] The present invention may also relate to a use of (e) at least one filler, in a composition comprising:
[0341] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit;
[0342] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms
[0343] (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less; and
[0344] (d) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter, in order to reduce the sticky feeling to the touch, oily / greasy feeling to the touch, and / or shiny aspect, of the composition when being applied onto a keratin substance such as skin.
[0345] The explanations regarding the ingredients (a) to (g) in the composition according to the present invention can apply to those in the above use according to the present invention.
[0346] EXAMPLES
[0347] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be constmed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0348] [Example 1A-2A and Comparative Examples 1A-4A] The following compositions, in the form of an O / W emulsion, according to Examples 1A-2A and Comparative Examples 1 A-4A shown in Table 1 A, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table lAas follows:
[0349] (1) mixing the ingredients in the rows of A in Table 1 A at 75-80°C to form a uniform mixture (Phase A);
[0350] (2) adding the ingredient(s) in the rows of B in Table 1 Ato the uniform mixture (Phase A), followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A and B);
[0351] (3) adding 80 wt% of the ingredients in the rows of C in Table 1 Ato the uniform mixture (Phases A and B), followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases
[0352] A, B and 80%C);
[0353] (4) cooling the uniform mixture (Phases A, B and 80%C) to a room temperature;
[0354] (5) adding the ingredients, if present, in the rows of D in Table 1 Ato the uniform mixture (Phases A, B and 80%C), followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80%C and D);
[0355] (6) adding the ingredient in the row of E in Table 1 A to the uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80%C and D), followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A,
[0356] B, 80%C, D and E) with a pH of 6.5;
[0357] (7) mixing 20 wt% of the ingredients in the rows of C in Table 1 A and the ingredient(s), if present, in the row of F in Table 1 A, followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases 20%C and F); and
[0358] (8) adding the uniform mixture (Phases 20%C and F) to the uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80%C, D, and E) gradually with a propeller mixer to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B, C, D, E, and F) as a composition according to any one of Examples 1A-2A and Comparative Examples 1A-4A.
[0359] The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 A are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials. The (a) to (g) in Table 1 A correspond to those in the claims.
[0360]
[0361] [Evaluations]
[0362] (Viscosity)
[0363] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1A-2A and Comparative Examples 1 A-4A was measured at a room temperature (25°C) with a B-type viscometer under the conditions of rotor: No. 4, rotation speed: 6 rpm, and measurement time: 1 minute.
[0364] The results are shown in Table 1 A.
[0365] (Texture Transformation)
[0366] Five professional panelists evaluated “texture transformation” during the application of the compositions according to Examples 1 A-2A and Comparative Examples 1A-4A. Each panelist took each composition and applied it circularly onto their faces. They evaluated the timing when texture transformation (from cream to liquid) occurred, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:
[0367] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (texture transformation is clearly felt at the early stage of application) Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (texture transformation is felt at the early stage of application)
[0368] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (texture transformation is hardly felt at the early stage of application)
[0369] Very Poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (texture transformation is not felt at all at the early stage of application)
[0370] The results are shown in Table 1 A.
[0371] (Non-Sticky Feeling)
[0372] Five professional panelists evaluated the “non-sticky feeling” after application of the compositions according to Examples 1 A-2A and Comparative Examples 1 A-4A. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their faces to evaluate the non-sticky feeling after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:
[0373] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (stickiness is not felt at all after application)
[0374] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (stickiness is hardly felt after application)
[0375] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (stickiness is felt after application)
[0376] Very Poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (stickiness is clearly felt after application)
[0377] The results are shown in Table 1 A.
[0378] (Stability)
[0379] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1A-2A and Comparative Examples 1A-4A was filled into a glass bottle and was held under temperature changing conditions at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months. Each sample was then investigated for the degree of change (aspect, color, and odor), and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:
[0380] Very Good: Almost the same conditions as at production. Good: Little changes in aspect, color, and odor were observed. Poor: Changes in aspect, color, and odor were clearly observed. Very Poor: Changes in aspect, color, and odor were remarkably noticed.
[0381] The results are shown in Table 1 A.
[0382] (Summary)
[0383] As is clear from Table 1 A, the composition according to the present invention (Examples 1A-2A) was able to provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation during application; non-sticky feeling; and stability under temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of the ingredients (a) to (c). Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide, in particular, an excellent feeling to the touch and stability for a long time period even under temperature changes.
[0384] The composition according to Example 2A is more preferable than the composition according to Example 1 A, due to the presence of the ingredient (e) filler, in terms of non-sticky feeling after application.
[0385] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 A which did not include the ingredient (a) (amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit) showed inferior texture transformation, as well as instability. In addition, the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 A could not be measured due to a phase separation.
[0386] The composition according to Comparative Example 2A which did not include the ingredient (b) (polysaccharide derived from microorganisms) showed inferior texture transformation, as well as instability.
[0387] The composition according to Comparative Example 3 A which did not include the ingredient (c) (a low HLB polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof) showed inferior texture transformation.
[0388] The composition according to Comparative Example 4 A which did not include the ingredient (c) but included a high HLB polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof showed inferior texture transformation.
[0389] [Example 1B-3B and Comparative Examples 1B-4B]
[0390] The following compositions, in the form of an O / W emulsion, according to Examples 1B-3B and Comparative Examples 1B-4B shown in Table 1B, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1B as follows:
[0391] (1) mixing the ingredients in the rows of A in Table 1B at 75-80°C to form a uniform mixture (Phase A);
[0392] (2) adding the ingredient(s) in the rows of B in Table 1B to the uniform mixture (Phase A), followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A and B);
[0393] (3) adding 80 wt% of the ingredients in the rows of C in Table 1B to the uniform mixture (Phases A and B), followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B and 80%C);
[0394] (4) cooling the uniform mixture (Phases A, B and 80%C) to a room temperature;
[0395] (5) adding the ingredients, if present, in the rows of D in Table 1B to the uniform mixture (Phases A, B and 80%C), followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80%C and D);
[0396] (6) adding the ingredient in the row of E in Table 1B to the uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80%C and D), followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80%C, D and E) with a pH of 6.5;
[0397] (7) mixing 20 wt% of the ingredients in the rows of C in Table 1B and the ingredient(s), if present, in the row of F in Table 1B, followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases 20%C and F); and
[0398] (8) adding the uniform mixture (Phases 20%C and F) to the uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80%C, D, and E) gradually with a propeller mixer to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B, C, D, E, and F) as a composition according to any one of Examples 1B-3B and Comparative Examples 1B-4B.
[0399] The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1B are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials. The (a) to (g) in Table 1B correspond to those in the claims.
[0400]
[0401]
[0402] [Evaluations]
[0403] (Viscosity)
[0404] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1B-3B and Comparative Examples 1B-4B was measured at a room temperature (25°C) with a B-type viscometer under the conditions of rotor: No. 4, rotation speed: 6 rpm, and measurement time: 1 minute.
[0405] The results are shown in Table 1B.
[0406] (Texture Transformation)
[0407] Five professional panelists evaluated “texture transformation” during the application of the compositions according to Examples 1B-3B and Comparative Examples 1B-4B. Each panelist took each composition and applied it circularly onto their faces. They evaluated the timing when texture transformation (from cream to liquid) occurred, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:
[0408] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (texture transformation is clearly felt at the early stage of application)
[0409] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (texture transformation is felt at the early stage of application)
[0410] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (texture transformation is hardly felt at the early stage of application)
[0411] Very Poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (texture transformation is not felt at all at the early stage of application)
[0412] The results are shown in Table 1B.
[0413] (Non-Sticky Feeling)
[0414] Five professional panelists evaluated the “non-sticky feeling” after application of the compositions according to Examples 1B-3B and Comparative Examples 1B-4B. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their faces to evaluate the non-sticky feeling after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:
[0415] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (stickiness is not felt at all after application)
[0416] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (stickiness is hardly felt after application)
[0417] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (stickiness is felt after application)
[0418] Very Poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (stickiness is clearly felt after application)
[0419] The results are shown in Table 1B.
[0420] (Non-Oily / Greasy Feeling)
[0421] Five professional panelists evaluated the “non-oily / greasy feeling” after application of the compositions according to Examples 1B-3B and Comparative Examples 1B-4B. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their faces to evaluate the non-sticky feeling after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:
[0422] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (oiliness / greasiness is not felt at all after application) Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (oiliness / greasiness is hardly felt after application) Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (oiliness / greasiness is felt after application)
[0423] Very Poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (oiliness / greasiness is clearly felt after application)
[0424] The results are shown in Table 1B.
[0425] (No-Shiny Skin Aspect)
[0426] Five professional panelists evaluated the “non-shiny skin aspect” after application of the compositions according to Examples 1B-3B and Comparative Examples 1B-4B. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their faces to evaluate the non-shiny skin aspect after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:
[0427] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (shininess is not felt at all after application)
[0428] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (shininess is hardly felt after application)
[0429] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (shininess is felt after application)
[0430] Very Poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (shininess is clearly felt after application)
[0431] (Stability)
[0432] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1B-3B and Comparative Examples 1B-4B was filled into a glass bottle and was held under temperature changing conditions at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months. Each sample was then investigated for the degree of change (aspect, color, and odor), and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:
[0433] Very Good: Almost the same conditions as at production.
[0434] Good: Little changes in aspect, color, and odor were observed.
[0435] Poor: Changes in aspect, color, and odor were clearly observed.
[0436] Very Poor: Changes in aspect, color, and odor were remarkably noticed.
[0437] The results are shown in Table 1B.
[0438] (Summary)
[0439] As is clear from Table 1B, the composition in the form of an O / W emulsion according to the present invention (Examples 1B to 3B) was able to provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation during application; non-sticky feeling, non-oily / greasy feeling, and non-shiny aspect, after application; and stability under temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of the ingredients (a), (b), (c) and (e) under the presence of the ingredient (d). Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide, in particular, an excellent feeling to the touch and stability for a long time period even under temperature changes.
[0440] The composition according to Example 1B is more preferable than the composition according to Example 3B, due to the presence of a plurality of the ingredients (c), in terms of non-sticky feeling and non-shiny aspect, after application.
[0441] On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Example 1B which did not include the ingredient (a) (amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit) showed inferior texture transformation, as well as instability. In addition, the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 1B could not be measured due to a phase separation.
[0442] The composition according to Comparative Example 2B which did not include the ingredient (b) (polysaccharide derived from microorganisms) showed inferior texture transformation, as well as instability.
[0443] The composition according to Comparative Example 3B which did not include the ingredient (c) (a low HLB polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof) showed inferior texture transformation.
[0444] The composition according to Comparative Example 4B which did not include the ingredient (e) (filler) showed inferior stickiness, oiliness / greasiness, and shiny aspect.
Claims
CLAIMS1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:(a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit;(b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms; and(c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
2. The composition according to Claim 1 , wherein the (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit is made of C8-30alkyl (meth)acrylate and at least one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and esters thereof.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit is crosslinked.
4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit is selected from the group consisting of acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / ethylhexyl acrylate crosspolymer, C8-22 alkyl acrylates / methacrylic acid crosspolymer, potassium acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and a mixture thereof.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and a mixture thereof.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.8, The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) poly glyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof is selected from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof isselected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and a mixture thereof.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety thereof in the composition is from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 , wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one filler.
13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one oil.
14. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition further comprises (g) water.
15. A cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 to the keratin substance.
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