Transparent support for a precious or semi-precious stone

Abstract

The invention relates to a support (10) for a precious or semi-precious stone (50). The support (10) comprises a wall (12) arranged so as to surround the stone, a central portion (15), a peripheral surface (17) that defines a cavity (14) configured to partially accommodate the stone (50) therein, and one or more holding elements (22) for holding the stone (50) in the cavity (14). The support (10) is made of a transparent material while at least a portion of the support is flexible in order to allow the stone (50) to be inserted and held in the cavity (14). The invention also relates to an item of jewellery or a timepiece comprising a precious or semi-precious stone (50) held in such a support.

Description

Transparent support for precious or semi-precious stones Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to an essentially transparent support, in particular made of glass, for fixing a precious or semi-precious stone. The invention also relates to an article of jewelry or a timepiece comprising a precious or semi-precious piece fixedly held in such a support. State of the art

[0002] There are various techniques for holding a precious or semi-precious stone in a setting. The most common technique is setting, which involves creating a seat that fits the stone in a setting, particularly for a piece of jewelry or a timepiece. The stone is then mounted in the seat, and metal is folded over the stone to hold it in place. Invisible setting, also known as invisible or mysterious setting, is a specific setting technique that involves setting a stone in such a way that the stone's support remains invisible in the finished piece. Only a portion of the gemstone's presentation is visible to an observer.

[0003] This contrasts with other common settings such as a prong setting, where prongs extend from a base to hold a stone in place, with the prongs being visible above the presentation portion of the gemstone.

[0004] Conventionally, the effect of the invisible setting is created by machining a groove into the pavilion of the stone. A rail of an underlying metal framework can be installed in this groove to hold the stone in place without the framework protruding. This type of setting allows the gemstone to be highlighted particularly effectively, without any visible setting to distract the eye. Brief summary of the invention

[0005] An aim of the present invention is to provide a support for precious or semi-precious stone where only a presentation part of the precious stone is visible to an observer according to an alternative solution.

[0006] Another object of the invention is to provide an item of jewelry or a timepiece comprising a precious or semi-precious stone mounted in such a support.

[0007] These aims are achieved, at least in part, by a support for a precious or semi-precious stone, comprising a wall arranged to surround the stone, a central part and a peripheral surface together defining a cavity configured to receive, at least in part, said stone. The support further comprises one or more holding elements for holding the stone in the cavity. The support is made of a transparent material and comprises at least one flexible part in order to be able to insert and hold the stone in the cavity of the support.

[0008] According to one embodiment, said at least one flexible part is elastically deformable.

[0009] According to one embodiment, the transparent material is made of an amorphous inorganic material, transparent ceramic, glass-ceramic, sapphire or a synthetic material.

[0010] According to one embodiment, the central part of the cavity has a bottom. The peripheral surface is inclined relative to the bottom and surrounds it. The stone rests partly on the peripheral surface.

[0011] According to one embodiment, at least a portion of the bottom and / or the peripheral surface comprises a metallic layer in order to reflect light.

[0012] According to one embodiment, the metal layer extends 360° along the peripheral surface to surround the stone culet.

[0013] According to one embodiment, the support further comprises at least one channel arranged around a portion of the stone when the latter is fixed to the support. The channel contains a phosphorescent, fluorescent or colored material.

[0014] According to one embodiment, the phosphorescent, fluorescent or colored material is in liquid form so as to be able to move in the channel.

[0015] According to one embodiment, the flexible part of the support comprises or consists of several flexible blades.

[0016] According to one embodiment, each flexible blade comprises a hook intended to cooperate with a tool in order to be able to flex each blade to place the stone in the support.

[0017] According to one embodiment, the thickness of each blade is between 0.05mm and 0.2mm, preferably between 0.08mm and 0.15mm.

[0018] According to one embodiment, the width of each blade is between 0.1 mm and 0.15 mm.

[0019] According to one embodiment, the support further comprises threads forming an integral part of the transparent material and opening onto a lower side of the support.

[0020] According to one embodiment, the support is monolithic.

[0021] According to one embodiment, each blade is in the form of a coil, one end of which is connected to the central part. The coil extends in a radial direction and comprises two elbows which are inverted relative to each other.

[0022] According to one embodiment, the holding elements are in the form of claws arranged at one end of the respective blades. The support comprises at least three claws preferably arranged at 120° to each other, or four claws preferably arranged at 90° to each other.

[0023] According to one embodiment, the support further comprises a ring forming a monolithic component with the blades and the holding elements. The holding elements are in the form of claws which are arranged on the ring to bear against the stone. The blades extend parallel to the wall from an upper side to a lower side of the support. The wall comprises a corresponding number of projections arranged to cooperate with the respective blades in order to be able to clip the ring onto the wall of the support.

[0024] According to one embodiment, the holding elements are in the form of claws which are integral with an upper edge of the wall. The thickness of at least a portion of the wall is less than a predetermined value in order to be able to flex this portion of the wall to move the claws away from the center of the support in order to be able to introduce the stone into the cavity.

[0025] According to one embodiment, the support further comprises two tabs, of arcuate shape, secured to the wall. These tabs extend in the extension of the circumference of the wall so that a free end of each tab is arranged opposite one another.

[0026] According to one embodiment, the support is adapted to receive and securely hold a precious or semi-precious stone having a round, oval, square, octagon, emerald, cushion, pear or marquise cut.

[0027] Another aspect of the invention relates to a precious or semi-precious stone mounted in the holder according to one of the above embodiments. The stone is visible through the wall of the holder.

[0028] Another aspect of the invention relates to an article of jewelry or a timepiece comprising the precious or semi-precious stone mounted in the support according to one of the aforementioned embodiments. Brief description of the figures

[0029] Examples of implementation of the invention are described in the description illustrated by the appended figures in which: - Figure 1 illustrates a perspective view of a gemstone fixed in a substantially transparent support according to a first embodiment; - Figure 2 illustrates a top view of the gemstone and support assembly of Figure 1; - Figure 3 illustrates a diametrical sectional view of the gemstone and support assembly of Figure 2; - figure 4 illustrates a perspective view from above of the support of figure 1; - figure 5 illustrates a perspective view from below of the support of figure 4; - figure 6 illustrates a diametrical sectional view of the support of figure 4; - Figure 7 illustrates a perspective view of a gemstone fixed in a transparent support and in two parts according to another embodiment; - Figure 8 illustrates an exploded view of the gemstone and support assembly of Figure 7; - Figure 9 illustrates a top view of the gemstone and support assembly of Figure 7; - Figure 10 illustrates a diametrical sectional view of the gemstone and support assembly of Figure 9; - figure 11 illustrates an enlarged view of one of the fixing points between the two parts of the support; - figure 12 illustrates a perspective view from above of the support of figure 7; - figure 13 illustrates a perspective view from below of the support of figure 7; - Figure 14 illustrates a perspective view of a gemstone fixed in a transparent support according to another embodiment; - Figure 15 illustrates a top view of the gemstone and support assembly of Figure 14; - Figure 16 illustrates a diametrical sectional view of the gemstone and support assembly of Figure 15; - figure 17 illustrates a perspective view from above of the support of figure 14, and - Figure 18 illustrates a perspective view from below of the support of Figure 14. Examples of embodiments of the invention

[0030] Monolithic and transparent 3D parts can be obtained by a technology based on direct laser printing in transparent materials, such as glass, quartz, sapphire, ruby ​​or any other transparent material, followed by selective wet etching. By exposing these transparent materials to precisely focused voxels of light, the highly selective etchant removes the densified material, leaving the unexposed region intact to create a fully transparent monolithic 3D part. FEMTOprint SA offers solutions based on this technology.

[0031] This can be used to create transparent mounts for precious stones, such as diamonds, emeralds or rubies, or for semi-precious stones, in various ways. This allows the stone to be fixed in the mount in such a way that the overall visual appearance of the stone mounted in the mount resembles an invisible setting of the stone, also known as a mystery setting.

[0032] The support according to the different embodiments illustrated by the figures can be completely transparent and is adapted to securely hold a stone 50 having a round brilliant type cut. The precious stone can thus be viewed in its entirety depending on the orientation of the support, in particular the pavilion which is at least partially hidden in conventional settings. The support comprises at least one elastically deformable part for holding the stone in the support. It will be understood that a person skilled in the art can easily modify the shape of the support so that it is adapted to receive and securely hold a stone having another type of cut, in particular a cut of the oval, square, octagon, emerald, cushion, pear or marquise type.

[0033] In some embodiments described in detail below, the holder includes a plurality of blades adapted to flex elastically to insert and hold the stone in the holder. Generally, the width of all the blades is proportional to the size of the stone and is preferably in a range of 10 to 15% of the diameter of the stone. For example, for a holder including four flexible blades and adapted for a 4.5mm stone, the width of each blade is approximately 0.125mm. Furthermore, the width of each blade is preferably at least twice their thickness.

[0034] Figures 1 to 6 illustrate a transparent support 10 for a round brilliant-cut precious or semi-precious stone 50, obtained according to the aforementioned technology, according to a first embodiment. The support 10 is monolithic and can be made of different types of transparent materials adapted on the one hand to offer elastic properties and, on the other hand, to allow the production of different complex and precise shapes according to the direct laser printing method described above.

[0035] The transparent material may be made of an amorphous inorganic material such as quartz, silica, or borosilicate glass, or soda lime. The material may also be a transparent ceramic, such as zirconia, glass-ceramic, sapphire, or a synthetic material.

[0036] This support comprises a wall or a peripheral edge 12 of generally cylindrical shape and a cavity 14 (figure 4) to receive the pavilion of the precious or semi-precious stone 50 as illustrated in particular by figures 1 to 3. The pavilion of the stone 50 is thus visible in particular through the peripheral edge 12 which is transparent. With reference to figure 4, the cavity 14 is defined by a central part 15 and a peripheral surface 17 surrounding the central part. The central part 15 of the cavity 14 comprises in this example a bottom 16 while the peripheral surface 17 is inclined relative to the bottom so that the pavilion of the stone 50 can rest partly on the peripheral surface 17 as illustrated in figure 3. The central part 15 can however be without a bottom according to a variant not illustrated. In this case, the support has a generally annular shape.The support 10 further comprises several elements for holding the stone 50 comprising, on the one hand, flexible blades 20 and, on the other hand, claws 22 to be able to insert and securely hold the precious or semi-precious stone 50 in the cavity 14.

[0037] In the example illustrated by figures 1 to 6, each blade 20 is in the form of a coil, one end of which is connected to the bottom 16 of the cavity 14 of the support 10 while the claws 22 are arranged at the other end of the respective coil 20. Each coil 20 may comprise two elbows inverted with respect to each other and extends in a radial direction from the bottom to the level of the peripheral edge 12.

[0038] The serpentine-shaped blades can be four in number and separated, for example, by 90° from each other in order to that the stone 50 can be held by two pairs of diametrically opposed claws 22. According to a variant not illustrated, the support may comprise only three serpentine blades arranged for example at 120° to each other, the stone being held in this case only by three claws located at the free end of the respective blades.

[0039] With regard to Figure 3, the distal segment 20a of each coil 20 comprising one of the claws 22 must be able to flex sufficiently to be able to insert or remove the stone without causing breakage of the blade while exercising good support for the stone in the cavity of the support 10. The dimensions of the coils must therefore be determined according to the modulus of elasticity of the material. For silica glass, the thickness of each blade is between 0.05mm and 0.2mm, preferably between 0.08mm and 0.15mm. The width of each blade is between 0.12mm and 0.2mm. It will be noted that each coil 20 comprises below the claw 22 a hook 20b intended to cooperate with a tool, for example a screwdriver, in order to facilitate the placement of the stone 50 in the support as well as the removal thereof by radially spreading the claw.

[0040] According to Figure 5, the support 10 further comprises threads 19 forming an integral part of the transparent material and opening onto a lower side 18 of the support. This makes it possible to fix the support 10 in particular to a piece of jewelry or to integrate it into a timepiece, for example in a tourbillon cage.

[0041] Although the transparent aspect of the support offers obvious advantages, particularly in terms of invisible setting, certain disadvantages may nevertheless appear, particularly on the brilliance of the precious stone since the transparent background of the support has little or no intrinsic diffuse reflection. In order to increase the brilliance of the stone, a coating, particularly chrome, gold or platinum, can be made, for example, by a vacuum PVD process on one or more portions of the support 10. For example, a coating may be applied to the bottom 16 and / or to the peripheral surface 17 of the support. By way of example, a coating 16a of annular shape may for example be deposited on this bottom.

[0042] Figures 7 to 13 illustrate a transparent support 10 for a round brilliant-cut precious or semi-precious stone 50, according to another embodiment. The support 10 comprises a first and a second transparent monolithic component 10a, 10b which can be assembled into each other to encapsulate the precious or semi-precious stone 50. The first component 10a comprises a transparent ring 26 arranged to come around a typically circular outer wall 12 of the second component 10b. The first component 10a further comprises flexible blades 20 extending from an upper edge 28 to a lower edge 29 of the ring 26 in a manner parallel to the outer wall 12 of the second element 10b.

[0043] This external wall 12 comprises projections 13 arranged in correspondence with one end 21 of the respective blade 20. This end 21 is shaped to be able to clip onto the projection 13 by playing on the flexibility of the blade as illustrated in particular by figures 10 and 11. The holding elements are in the form of claws 22 arranged at the other end of the respective blades 20 to come to bear against the stone 50. According to a non-illustrated variant, each claw of the support can be integral with a portion of the upper edge 28 of the ring 26 located between two flexible blades instead of being located at one end of each blade. In another non-illustrated embodiment, the claws are replaced by a holding element located on the entirety of the upper edge 28 and inclined to be in support on the periphery of the crown of the stone 50.

[0044] The second component 10b comprises a cavity 14 defined by a central portion 15 and a peripheral surface 17 surrounding the central portion as illustrated in FIG. 12. Like the first embodiment, a coating may be applied to the base 16 and / or to the peripheral surface 17 of the support in order to increase the shine of the stone. For example, a coating 17a of annular shape may for example be deposited on the peripheral surface 17.

[0045] According to the illustrated support, the flexible blades are four in number and are arranged for example at 90° to each other to cooperate each with one of four projections 13 arranged in correspondence with each other on the external wall 12 of the second element 10b. According to a non-illustrated variant, the ring may comprise only three blades arranged for example at 120° to each other to cooperate each with one of three projections 13 arranged in correspondence with each other on the external wall 12 of the second element 10b.

[0046] With regard to Figure 13, the second component 10b further comprises threads 19 forming an integral part of the transparent material and opening onto a lower side 18 of the component 10b. These threads allow the support to be fixed in particular to a piece of jewelry or in a timepiece.

[0047] Figures 14 to 18 illustrate a transparent support 10 for a round brilliant-cut precious or semi-precious stone, according to another embodiment. The wall 12 of the support 10 does not extend completely over 360° but over only a part of the circumference. Claws 22, preferably four, are integral with an upper edge 12a of the wall 12. The thickness of the wall 12 is determined so that at least a portion of it can flex to be able to move the claws 22 away from the center of the support. This allows the claws to be released from the cavity so that the stone can be inserted therein. According to one example, the entire wall 12 is flexible. It preferably has a thickness of less than 0.2 mm, typically around 0.15 mm.

[0048] The support 10 further comprises two tabs 23, of arcuate shape, secured to a lateral edge of the wall 12. These two tabs 23 are arranged so as to extend in the extension of the circumference of the wall 12 at or close to the interface between the culet and the crown of the stone 50, when the stone is mounted in the support, in a plane orthogonal to the central axis A as illustrated in figure 17.

[0049] A free end of each tab 23 is arranged opposite one another and are less than 1 mm apart, preferably less than 0.5 mm. The two tabs 23 are rigid so as to be able to flex the wall 12 in this plane when the tabs are moved apart from one another by means of a tool. This makes it possible to release the claws 22 from the cavity 14 so that the stone can be inserted therein. This cavity comprises a bottom 16 and several peripheral parts spaced apart from one another and arranged to partially support the culet of the stone.

[0050] Like the other two embodiments, the support further comprises threads 19 forming an integral part of the transparent material and opening onto a lower side 18 of the support for fixing the latter as illustrated in figure 18.

[0051] Although the claws 22 are held against a peripheral portion of the crown of the stone 50 according to any of the embodiments which have just been described, the transparent appearance of these claws has the advantage of allowing a visual view of the entire crown of the stone. The support thus makes it possible to fix the stone so that this fixing is similar to an invisible or mysterious setting.

[0052] Advantageously, the support 10 according to any one of the aforementioned embodiments may further comprise at least one channel made in the support and containing a phosphorescent material which may for example be in liquid form in order to be able to move in the channel. This channel can be arranged so as to illuminate the precious stone 50 at night. For example, this channel can be annular in shape and extend over 360° under the peripheral surface 17 of the example illustrated in particular by FIG. 12. Other variations on the shape and arrangement of the channel, for example in the thickness of the bottom 16 of the support, can be envisaged by those skilled in the art without difficulty.

[0053] The channel may contain another type of material, for example a fluorescent or colored material. Alternatively, a material, including one of the aforementioned materials, may be incorporated into the channel in a solid and fixed form.

[0054] It will be understood that various modifications and / or improvements obvious to a person skilled in the art may be made to the support without departing from the scope of the present invention defined by the appended claims. For example, although the peripheral edge of the support is circular in shape according to any of the embodiments described, this edge may have another shape, in particular substantially square or rectangular in order to receive a square or emerald-cut stone. The shape of the peripheral surface of the cavity is in this case adapted accordingly. Reference list Support 10 Wall 12 (Upper edge 12a) Projection 13 Cavity 14 Central part 15 Background 16 16a ring coating Peripheral area 17 Lower side 18 Tapping 19 Blades 20 Distal segment 20a Crochet 20b End 21 Claws 22 Tab 23 Metal layer 24 Ring 26 Top edge 28 Bottom edge 29 Precious stone 50

Claims

Claims 1. Support (10) for precious (50) or semi-precious stone, the support (10) comprising a wall (12) arranged to surround the stone, a central part (15) and a peripheral surface (17) defining a cavity (14) configured to receive therein, at least in part, the stone and one or more holding elements (22) for holding said stone in the cavity (14), characterized in that the support (10) is made of a transparent material and in that at least a part of the support (12) is flexible in order to be able to insert and hold the stone (50) in the cavity (14).

2. Support (10) according to claim 1, characterized in that said at least one part of the support is elastically deformable.

3. Support (10) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said transparent material is made of an amorphous inorganic material, transparent ceramic, glass-ceramic, sapphire or a synthetic material.

4. Support (10) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the central part (15) of the cavity (14) comprises a bottom, the peripheral surface (17) being inclined relative to the bottom (16) and surrounding the latter, the stone (50) resting partly on the peripheral surface (17).

5. Support (10) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that a part of the bottom (16) and / or of the peripheral surface (17) comprises a metallic layer (16a, 17a) in order to reflect the light.

6. Support (10) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the metal layer (16a, 17a) extends over 360° along the peripheral surface (17).

7. Support (10) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said support further comprises at least one channel arranged around a part of the stone (50) when the latter is fixed to the support, the channel containing a phosphorescent, fluorescent or colored material.

8. Support (10) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said phosphorescent, fluorescent or colored material is in liquid form so as to be able to move in said channel.

9. Support (10) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said support further comprises threads (19) forming an integral part of the transparent material and opening onto a lower side (18) of the support.

10. Support (10) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said support is monolithic.

11. Support (10) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one part of the support (12) comprises several flexible blades (20).

12. Support (10) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that each flexible blade (20) comprises a hook (20b) intended to cooperate with a tool to flex each blade for placing the stone (50) in the cavity (14) of the support.

13. Support (10) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that each blade (20) is in the form of a coil, one end of which is connected to the central part, the coil extending in a radial direction and comprising two elbows inverted with respect to each other.

14. Support (10) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the holding elements are in the form of claws (22) arranged at one end of the respective blades (20), the support comprising at least three claws (22) arranged at 120° to each other, preferably four claws arranged at 90° to each other.

15. Support (10) according to claim 11, characterized in that said support further comprises a ring (26) forming with the blades (20) and the holding elements (22) a monolithic component, said holding elements being in the form of claws (22) arranged on the ring (26) to come to bear against the stone (50), said blades extending parallel to the wall (12) from an upper side to a lower side of the support, the lateral side (12) comprising a corresponding number of projections (13) arranged to cooperate with the respective blades (20) in order to be able to clip the ring (26) onto the lateral side (12) of the support.

16. Support (10) according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the holding elements are in the form of claws (22) which are integral with an upper edge (12a) of the wall (12), and in that the thickness of at least one part of the wall (12) is less than a predetermined value in order to be able to elastically flex said part to move the claws (22).

17. Support (10) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it further comprises two tabs (23) of arcuate shape integral with the wall (12) and extending in the extension of the circumference of said wall (12), a free end of each tab (23) being arranged opposite one another.

18. Support according to one of the preceding claims adapted to receive and fix a precious or semi-precious stone having a round, oval, square, octagon, emerald, cushion, pear or marquise brilliant cut.

19. Precious (50) or semi-precious stone mounted in the support (10) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the stone is visible through the wall (12) of the support (10).

20. Jewelry item or timepiece comprising the precious or semi-precious stone (50) according to the preceding claim.

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