Bleaching agents containing vanillin additive

By adding vanillin to an alkaline bleaching agent for keratin fibers, the agent reduces hair damage and maintains effective bleaching results, addressing the challenges of oxidative damage in existing bleaching technologies.

WO2025119816A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-06-12HENKEL KGAA
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2024/084253
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-12-05
Filing Date
2024-12-02
Publication Date
2025-06-12

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing bleaching agents for keratin fibers, such as human hair, cause significant damage due to oxidative reactions, leading to rough, brittle hair and potential breakage, despite achieving effective bleaching results.

Method used

Incorporating vanillin as a stabilizing additive into an alkaline bleaching agent, which combines hydrogen peroxide and a persalt, helps maintain an alkaline pH and reduces damage to keratin fibers during the bleaching process.

Benefits of technology

The use of vanillin in the bleaching agent effectively minimizes hair damage while maintaining the quality of the bleaching result, as evidenced by reduced cysteic acid content and comparable Delta E values indicating minimal color deviation.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of vanillin derivatives in bleaching agents in order to reduce the damage to keratin fibers caused by oxidative lightening of hair.
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Description

[0001] Bleaching agent with vanillin additive'

[0002] The present invention relates to bleaching agents that serve as agents for lightening keratin fibers, in particular human hair. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of the agents for the gentle bleaching or oxidative lightening of human hair, a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) comprising several separate components that together form a bleaching agent for the gentle oxidative lightening of keratin fibers, and a method for the oxidative lightening of keratin fibers using the bleaching agent mentioned and the kit comprising this bleaching agent.

[0003] Lightening one's hair color has always been a desire of many consumers, as blonde hair is considered attractive and fashionable. For this purpose, various bleaching agents with varying bleaching power are available on the market. The oxidizing agents contained in these products are capable of lightening the hair fiber through the oxidative destruction of the hair's natural pigment, melanin. For a moderate bleaching effect, the use of hydrogen peroxide – optionally with the addition of ammonia or other alkalizing agents – as the oxidizing agent alone is sufficient. To achieve a stronger bleaching effect, a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and at least one compound selected from percarbonates and persalts, in particular peroxodisulfate salts and / or peroxomonosulfate salts, is usually used.To enhance the bleaching effect, the products contain higher concentrations of hydrogen peroxide and percarbonates or persalts, especially persulfates. Dark, dark brown, or black hair can be lightened by 4 to 9 shades in a single step. The hydrogen peroxide and the percarbonates or persalts are stored separately until ready to use to prevent premature deactivation of the percarbonates or persalts. The hydrogen peroxide component, which comprises an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, has an acidic pH to stabilize the hydrogen peroxide.

[0004] However, for the melanin-degrading effect of hydrogen peroxide and the bleaching effect on the keratin fiber, it is advantageous if the application mixture of hydrogen peroxide solution and persalt has an alkaline pH value.

[0005] There are several ways to adjust the pH of the lightening application mixture to an alkaline level:

[0006] The bleaching agent contains at least one powdered alkalizing agent in a total amount sufficient to ensure the application mixture achieves the desired alkaline pH; or the hydrogen peroxide solution is additionally combined with an alkalizing agent preparation to form the application mixture. However, lightening also causes damage to the hair, as oxidative damage not only affects the hair's pigments but also its structural components. Depending on the severity of the damage, this can range from rough, brittle, and difficult-to-comb hair to reduced resilience and tensile strength, all the way to hair breakage. Therefore, the greater the amount of hydrogen peroxide and, if present, persalts or percarbonates used, the greater the damage to the keratin fibers.

[0007] Various approaches have been taken to minimize hair damage and counteract the damaging effects of oxidizing agents.

[0008] EP 1022014 A1 describes an acidic hair dye containing an alkylene carbonate and optionally acidified with organic dicarboxylic acids.

[0009] DE 102010063370 and DE 102005013488 disclose the use of solubilizers based on acylpyridinium derivatives to improve the lightening effect of bleaching agents, thereby reducing the required amount of the harmful substances.

[0010] DE 10008640 discloses a bleaching process under acidic conditions, which also reduces hair damage. However, this typically makes the oxidizing agent less reactive than under alkaline conditions, which can limit the efficiency of the bleaching process. WO 2017 / 085117 discloses bleaching agents that enable gentle hair lightening with the addition of certain amino acids with dicarboxylic acids. Although the described processes already achieve good results, there remains considerable room for improvement.

[0011] It was therefore the object of the present invention to provide agents for lightening or bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which cause as little damage to the keratin fibers as possible and which are easy to produce and handle.

[0012] Surprisingly, the above-mentioned problems are solved by adding vanillin to an alkaline bleaching agent. By adding vanillin to an oxidative bleaching agent for keratin fibers, it has been possible to reduce damage to the fibers during oxidative bleaching without sacrificing alkaline conditions and the associated quality of the bleaching result.

[0013] A first subject of the invention is therefore a bleaching agent for lightening keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising a) a composition (A) comprising at least one alkalizing agent and optionally at least one persalt; and / or b) a composition (B) having a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably 3 to 5, particularly preferably 3.2 to 4, containing hydrogen peroxide; and / or c) optionally a composition (C) comprising at least one persalt; wherein, upon mixing all components of the bleaching agent with one another, an alkaline pH is established which is preferably in the range of 8 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 11.5, particularly preferably 9 to 10.5, characterized in that the bleaching agent comprises at least one stabilizing additive having the following structural formula: where -R is selected from

[0014] -H, -OH, -NH2, -alkyl, -alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl, -CN, -NO2, -SO3H, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I; where the radical R is more preferably selected from -H, -OH or -CH3.

[0015] Alkyl radicals, as used in the above structural formula to describe the radical R, are groups of carbon and hydrogen atoms that have only single bonds between the carbon atoms. Alkyl radicals are saturated hydrocarbon groups and typically terminate in a hydrogen atom. They are formed by removing a hydrogen atom from an alkane molecule. Examples include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, etc. A methyl radical is particularly preferred, yielding acetovanillone.

[0016] Alkenyl radicals are groups of carbon and hydrogen atoms that contain at least one double bond (alkene bond) between two adjacent carbon atoms. This double bond imparts a certain degree of unsaturation to the alkenyl radicals. Examples include vinyl, allyl, butenyl, etc.

[0017] Alkynyl radicals are groups of carbon and hydrogen atoms that contain at least one triple bond (alkyne bond) between two adjacent carbon atoms. This triple bond gives alkynyl radicals a higher degree of unsaturation compared to alkenyl radicals. Examples include ethynyl, propynyl, butynyl, etc.

[0018] Alkyl radicals are preferably selected from the following: methyl radical: -CH3, ethyl radical: -C2H5, propyl radical: -C3H7, isopropyl radical: -C(CH3)3, butyl radical: -C4H9, isobutyl radical: -C(CH3)2CH2, pentyl radical: -C5H11, hexyl radical: -C6H13.

[0019] Alkenyl radicals are preferably selected from the following: vinyl radical: -CH=CH2, allyl radical: -CH2CH=CH2, butenyl radical: -CH2CH=CHCH3, pentenyl radical: -CH2CH=CHCH2CH3.

[0020] Alkynyl radicals are preferably selected from the following: ethynyl radical: -CnCH, propynyl radical: -CECCH3, butynyl radical: -CECCH2CH3.

[0021] In the context of the present invention, the stabilizing additive is referred to as a vanillin derivative.

[0022] Particularly preferably, R is selected from -H, -OH, and a methyl radical: -CH3. In particular, the additive is vanillin, vanillic acid, or acetovanillone.

[0023] A product containing only one composition (A) or only one composition (B) is therefore also considered a bleaching agent within the meaning of the invention. It is essential that the bleaching agent comprises a vanillin derivative. The user can then combine these individual bleaching agents and use them to lighten the hair. In this case, the product can be available either individually or as part of a kit-of-parts. Furthermore, the invention also encompasses the use of a vanillin derivative for bleaching hair. According to one embodiment of the use, the bleaching agent does not contain any additives. Rather, the consumer adds the additive to the bleaching agent during use. In this case, the additive can be present as part of a kit-of-parts or entirely separate from the bleaching agent.

[0024] The bleaching agents according to the invention demonstrate good bleaching results while effectively protecting the keratin fibers. They are also simple to produce and easy to handle.

[0025] For the purposes of the invention, keratin-containing or keratinic fibers are understood to mean fur, wool, feathers, and especially human hair. Although the agents according to the invention are primarily suitable for the oxidative lightening of keratin-containing fibers, in principle, there is nothing to prevent their use in other areas as well.

[0026] A suitable parameter for quantifying fiber damage, especially hair damage, is the measurement of the cysteic acid content of the keratin fibers, which increases upon oxidation of the cystine groups contained in the keratin fibers.

[0027] According to the invention, the term “powder” or “powdery” is to be understood as meaning a free-flowing composition of individual particles which is solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar and in which the individual particles have particle sizes in the range from 0.1 pm to a maximum of 1.6 mm. The particle sizes can preferably be determined by means of laser diffraction measurement in accordance with ISO 13320-1 (2009). If necessary, the particles can be adapted in their grain size to the requirements of the bleaching agent by physical treatment, such as sieving, pressing, granulating or pelletizing, or by the addition of certain excipients, in order to enable, for example, better miscibility of the individual powder components or miscibility of the bleaching agent with a hydrogen peroxide preparation.

[0028] Powdered compositions preferred according to the invention have a bulk density in the range of 500 to 1000 g / l (grams / liter), preferably 550 to 900 g / l, particularly preferably 600 to 820 g / l. The bulk density is preferably determined according to EN ISO 60 (version 01 / 2000) or DIN ISO 697 (version 01 / 1984).

[0029] Unless otherwise stated, all temperature specifications refer to a pressure of 1013 mbar.

[0030] According to the invention, the terms “paste” or “paste-like” are to be understood as meaning a composition which, at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, has a viscosity in the range from 200,000 to 1,600,000 mPas, preferably 250,000 to 1,400,000 mPas, particularly preferably 300,000 to 1,000,000 mPas, extraordinarily preferably 400,000 to 750,000 mPas.

[0031] Paste viscosity is preferably determined using a Brookfield RVDV II+ instrument, spindle no. 96, 4 revolutions per minute, at 20°C.

[0032] According to the invention, the terms “cream” or “creamy” are understood to mean a composition consisting mainly of an oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion with ingredients dissolved or suspended therein.

[0033] According to the invention, the terms “gel” or “gel-like” are understood to mean a composition consisting mainly of an aqueous solution or oil-in-water emulsion treated with a gelling agent with ingredients dissolved or suspended therein.

[0034] Unless otherwise stated, all pH values ​​are measured at 20°C. Percentages are by weight unless otherwise stated.

[0035] In the context of this application, the term "bleaching" refers to the oxidative lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair.

[0036] Bleaching agents according to the invention do not contain oxidation dyes or their precursors. Direct-absorbing dyes may be present to mask undesirable shades, but not to produce a color of their own.

[0037] The bleaching agents according to the invention preferably do not contain any acylpyridinium derivatives. The bleaching agent according to the invention contains a composition (A), a composition (B), optionally a composition (C), and optionally a composition (D), wherein (A), (B), (C), and (D) are separated from one another; and wherein

[0038] (A) contains at least one alkalizing agent and optionally at least one persalt, preferably a percarbonate or a persulfate, particularly preferably a persulfate;

[0039] (B) contains hydrogen peroxide and has a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably from 3 to 5, particularly preferably from 3.2 to 4; and, if (C) is present, (C) contains at least one persalt, preferably a percarbonate or a persulfate, particularly preferably a persulfate; wherein at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) or optionally (C) or optionally (D) contains a vanillin derivative; and when the compositions (A), (B), (C) and (D) are mixed, an alkaline pH is established which is preferably in the range from 8 to 12, particularly preferably from 8.5 to 11.5, extremely preferably from 9.0 to 10.5, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0040] In one embodiment, (A) is a cream or gel with a high content of alkalizing agent, preferably ammonia or monoethanolamine; (B) is an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or emulsion having a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably 3 to 5, particularly preferably 3.2 to 4; (D) is an aqueous solution of vanillin derivative; (C) is not present.

[0041] In a second embodiment, (A) is a cream or gel with a high content of alkalizing agent, preferably ammonia or monoethanolamine, (B) is an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or emulsion with a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably from 3 to 5, particularly preferably from 3.2 to 4, (C) and (D) are not present, wherein either (A) or (B) contains vanillin derivative.

[0042] In a third embodiment, (A) is a cream or gel with a high content of alkalizing agent, preferably ammonia or monoethanolamine, (B) is an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or emulsion with a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably from 3 to 5, particularly preferably from 3.2 to 4, and (C) and (D) are not present, wherein (A) contains vanillin derivative, and (B) contains vanillin derivative.

[0043] In a fourth embodiment, (A) is a cream or gel with a high content of alkalizing agent, preferably ammonia or monoethanolamine; (B) an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or emulsion with a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably from 3 to 5, particularly preferably from 3.2 to 4; (C) a persalt-containing powder, preferably a persulfate- or percarbonate-containing powder, particularly preferably a persulfate-containing powder, optionally containing a filler, preferably silica, optionally containing an oil, and optionally containing a powdered alkalizing agent; and (D) an aqueous solution of vanillin derivative.In a fifth embodiment, (A) is a cream or gel with a high content of alkalizing agent, preferably ammonia or monoethanolamine; (B) is an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or emulsion with a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably from 3 to 5, particularly preferably from 3.2 to 4; (C) is a persalt-containing powder, preferably a persulfate- or percarbonate-containing powder, particularly preferably a persulfate-containing powder, optionally containing a filler, preferably silica, optionally containing an oil, and optionally containing a powdered alkalizing agent; and (D) is not present, wherein either (A) or (B) or (C) contains vanillin derivative.

[0044] In a sixth embodiment, (A) is a cream or gel with a high content of alkalizing agent, preferably ammonia or monoethanolamine; (B) is an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or emulsion with a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably from 3 to 5, particularly preferably from 3.2 to 4; (C) is a persalt-containing powder, preferably a persulfate- or percarbonate-containing powder, particularly preferably a persulfate-containing powder, optionally containing a filler, preferably silica, optionally containing an oil, and optionally containing a powdered alkalizing agent; and (D) is not present, wherein either (A) or (C) contains a component selected from vanillin derivatives and (B) contains the component selected from vanillin derivatives that is not contained in (A) or (C).

[0045] In a seventh embodiment, (A) is a cream or gel with a high content of alkalizing agent, preferably ammonia or monoethanolamine; (B) is an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or emulsion with a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably from 3 to 5, particularly preferably from 3.2 to 4; (C) is a persalt-containing powder, preferably a persulfate- or percarbonate-containing powder, particularly preferably a persulfate-containing powder, optionally containing a filler, preferably silica, optionally containing an oil, and optionally containing a powdered alkalizing agent; and (D) is not present, wherein (A) contains a component selected from vanillin derivatives and (C) contains the component selected from vanillin derivatives that is not contained in (A).

[0046] In an eighth embodiment, (A) is a powder or an anhydrous oil paste with a high content of alkalizing agent, preferably an alkali silicate, additionally containing at least one persalt, preferably a persulfate or a percarbonate, particularly preferably a persulfate; (B) is an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or emulsion having a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably of 3 to 5, particularly preferably of 3.2 to 4; (D) is an aqueous solution of vanillin derivative, and (C) is not present.

[0047] In a ninth embodiment, (A) is a powder or an anhydrous oil paste with high

[0048] Content of alkalizing agent, preferably an alkali silicate, additionally containing at least one persalt, preferably a persulfate or a percarbonate, particularly preferably a persulfate; (B) an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or emulsion having a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably 3 to 5, particularly preferably 3.2 to 4; and (C) and (D) are not present, wherein either (A) or (B) contains a vanillin derivative.

[0049] In a tenth embodiment, (A) is a powder or an anhydrous oil paste with a high content of alkalizing agent, preferably an alkali silicate, additionally containing at least one persalt, preferably a persulfate or a percarbonate, particularly preferably a persulfate; (B) is an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or emulsion having a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably 3 to 5, particularly preferably 3.2 to 4; and (C) and (D) are not present, wherein (A) contains vanillin derivative and (B) contains vanillin derivative not contained in (A).

[0050] A high content of alkalizing agent is understood to mean one in which a mixture of the compositions (A), (B), optionally (C) and optionally (D) leads to an alkaline pH, preferably in the range from 8 to 12, particularly preferably from 8.5 to 11.5, extremely preferably from 9.0 to 10.5.

[0051] The above embodiments serve only as exemplary embodiments, and the invention is not limited thereto.

[0052] Individual components and the compositions (A), (B), (C) and (D) are described in more detail below.

[0053] Vanillin derivative

[0054] Bleaching agents according to the invention contain vanillin derivative, which is distributed as desired between the compositions (A), (B), optionally (C) and optionally (D).

[0055] Bleaching agents preferred according to the invention contain between 0.001% by weight and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.005% by weight and 0.8% by weight, particularly preferably between 0.01% by weight and 0.5% by weight, extraordinarily preferably between 0.02% by weight and 0.4% by weight of vanillin derivative.

[0056] A further object of the present invention is also the use of vanillin derivative in an alkaline bleaching agent for reducing damage to keratin fibers, in particular human hair, during the oxidative lightening of these fibers, wherein the bleaching agent is preferably a bleaching agent according to the invention.

[0057] Preferably, the vanillin derivative is one or more of the following: vanillin or vanillic acid and / or acetovanillone. Vanillin is an organic compound. It is a phenolic aldehyde with the chemical formula C8H8O3. Vanillin occurs naturally in the vanilla bean, but it can also be produced synthetically.

[0058] Vanillic acid is a carboxylic acid derivative of vanillin. The chemical structure of vanillic acid is modified by the insertion of a carboxyl group into the vanillin molecule. The carboxyl group in vanillic acid imparts (slightly) acidic properties to this compound.

[0059] Acetovan illon, also known as 3-methoxy-4-hydroxyacetophenone, is a chemical compound. This substance is closely related to vanillin and is therefore a vanillin derivative.

[0060] Composition (A)

[0061] Bleaching agents according to the invention contain at least one alkalizing agent in composition (A). If composition (A) is in the form of a cream or lotion, the alkalizing agent is preferably selected from ammonia and amines, with the amine preferably being an alkanolamine, particularly preferably monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, and triethanolamine, most preferably monoethanolamine.

[0062] In bleaching agents preferred according to the invention, which contain ammonia or an amine, preferably ammonia or monoethanolamine, particularly preferably ammonia, as alkalizing agent in composition (A), composition (A) contains water and has a pH in the range of 8-12, preferably 9-11, particularly preferably 9.5-10.5, in each case measured at 20°C. Typically, ammonia (NH3) is used in the form of its aqueous solution. Aqueous ammonia solutions often contain ammonia (NH3) in concentrations of 10 to 32 wt.%. Preference is given to using an aqueous ammonia solution containing 25 wt.% ammonia (NH3).

[0063] Ammonia and / or monoethanolamine are preferably present in the alkalization compositions preferably used according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 - 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 7.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 - 5.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 1.5 - 4.5 wt.% - in each case based on the weight of the composition (A).

[0064] In addition to ammonia and alkanolamines, at least one further alkalizing agent may be present, which is selected from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, as well as mixtures of these substances.

[0065] Bleaching agents according to the invention, in which the composition (A) is present as a powder or anhydrous oil paste, preferably contain exclusively solid (at 20°C and 1013 mbar) alkalizing agents, preferably selected from those mentioned above.

[0066] In a preferred embodiment, bleaching agents according to the invention optionally contain in composition (A) at least one persalt as oxidizing agent.

[0067] According to the invention, percarbonates and persulfates are referred to as persalts. Percarbonates are understood, in particular, to be sodium carbonate-hydrogen peroxide complexes. Commercially available sodium percarbonate has the average composition 2 Na2O3 • 3 H2O2. Sodium percarbonate is a white, water-soluble powder that readily decomposes into sodium carbonate and "active" oxygen, which has a bleaching and oxidizing effect.

[0068] Persulfates are inorganic salts of peroxosulfuric acids.

[0069] Peroxosulfuric acids are understood to mean peroxodisulfuric acid and peroxomonosulfuric acid (Caro's acid). The persulfates are preferably selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxomonosulfate, and alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfate. Ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, and potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate are particularly preferred. In a preferred embodiment, the bleaching agent according to the invention contains at least two different peroxodisulfates. Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are combinations of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate.

[0070] Preferably, the at least one persalt is selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof in a total amount of 5-85 wt.%, preferably 10-75 wt.%, particularly preferably 15-65 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 20-55 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (A).

[0071] Bleaching agents according to the invention which contain exclusively solid alkalizing agents, preferably at least one alkali silicate, in the composition (A), preferably also contain an oxidizing agent selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 5-85 wt.%, preferably 10-75 wt.%, particularly preferably 15-65 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 20-55 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (A)

[0072] Preferred bleaching agents according to the invention which contain in composition (A) an oxidizing agent selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof, additionally contain in composition (A) at least one inorganic alkalizing agent which is solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, including at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5-3.5, in a total amount of 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, in each case based on the weight of composition (A). The alkalizing agent, which is solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, is preferably present in a total amount of 1-60 wt.%, preferably 5-55 wt.%, particularly preferably 10-50 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 15-45 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition (A).In addition to the at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5-3.5, in a total amount of 0.1 to 50 wt.%, preferably 5 to 40 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (A) as optional alkalizing agent, further inorganic alkalizing agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention and are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar are selected from alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, (alkali earth) metal phosphates and (alkali earth) metal hydrogen phosphates and mixtures of these substances.Particularly preferred inorganic alkalizing agents according to the invention, which are solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar, are, in addition to the at least one obligatory sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate, each with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably from 2.5 to 3.5, selected from magnesium hydroxide carbonates and mixtures of these alkalizing agents. Magnesium hydroxide carbonates preferred according to the invention are those with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2 ■ 2 H2O and those with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2. Magnesium hydroxide carbonate with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2 is particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0073] Bleaching agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention and which contain in the composition (A) an oxidizing agent which is selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof, contain in the composition (A), based on their total weight, 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, of sodium silicates with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably from 2.5 to 3.5, and 2 - 20% by weight, preferably 5 - 15% by weight, particularly preferably 8 - 25% by weight of magnesium hydroxide carbonate as inorganic alkalizing agents which are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar.

[0074] According to the invention, particularly preferred bleaching agents contain in composition (A) in the absence of a composition (C), if the latter is present, in each case based on their total weight, 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight of sodium silicates with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably from 2.5 to 3.5, and 2 - 20% by weight, preferably 5 - 15% by weight, particularly preferably 10 - 13% by weight of magnesium hydroxide carbonate with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2 as inorganic alkalizing agents which are solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar.

[0075] If the bleaching agent according to the invention or preferred according to the invention contains in composition (A) one or more inorganic carbonates, either as alkalizing agents or as oxidizing agents in the form of sodium carbonate-hydrogen peroxide complexes, their content is preferably selected such that in the application mixture with composition (B), optionally composition (C) and optionally composition (D) the molar C03 2 -Total concentration is at least 0.015 mol / 100 grams of application mixture.

[0076] If the bleaching agent according to the invention or preferred according to the invention contains one or more inorganic carbonates in the composition (A)), either as alkalizing agents or as oxidizing agents in the form of sodium carbonate-hydrogen peroxide complexes, their content is particularly preferably selected such that in the application mixture with the composition (B) and optionally the composition (D) the molar CO3 2 -Total concentration is calculated to be at least four times higher than the total concentration of proton donors.

[0077] If the bleaching agent according to the invention or preferred according to the invention contains in composition (A) one or more inorganic carbonates, either as alkalizing agents or as oxidizing agents in the form of sodium carbonate-hydrogen peroxide complexes, their content is most preferably selected such that in the application mixture with composition (B), optionally composition (C) and optionally composition (D) the molar C03 2 -Total concentration is at least 0.015 mol / 100 grams of application mixture and is calculated to be at least four times higher than the total concentration of proton donors.

[0078] The bleaching agents according to the invention preferably have a water content of 0 to 8 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 3 wt.%, of water in the composition (A), based on the weight of the composition (A), if it contains alkali silicates as alkalizing agent, and not ammonia or an amine.

[0079] This information refers to the free water content. It does not take into account the content of molecularly bound water or water of crystallization that individual powder components may contain. The water content can be determined, for example, using Karl Fischer titration based on ISO 4317 (version 2011-12).

[0080] To dedust composition (A), if it contains alkali silicates as alkalizing agents and not ammonia or an amine, at least one dedusting agent can be added, which is selected in particular from at least one oil, in particular selected from paraffin oil, silicone oil, or ester oil, as well as mixtures of these oils. The at least one oil is preferably present in a total amount of 0.1-15 wt.%, preferably 0.5-10 wt.%, particularly preferably 1-8 wt.%, extremely preferably 2-6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the bleaching agent (A).

[0081] Preferred oils according to the invention are selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably from paraffin oils, Cis-Cso-isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, furthermore selected from Cs-Ci6-isoparaffins, in particular from isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane and isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, and also 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane.

[0082] Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C8-22 alkanols. Benzoic acid C12-C15 alkyl esters are particularly preferred. Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated, or branched and unsaturated. Preferred alcohol oils are 2-hexyldecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol.

[0083] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the triglycerides (= triple esters of glycerol) of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-30 fatty acids. Particularly preferred are natural oils, e.g., amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, pecan nut oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, rosehip oil, wheat germ oil, and the liquid components of coconut oil, and the like. Synthetic triglyceride oils, especially capric / caprylic triglycerides, are also preferred.

[0084] Further cosmetic oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched O2-C10-alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di-(2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

[0085] Further cosmetic oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 - 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 - 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These preferably include 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyloctanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, Oleyl oleate, oleyl rucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl rucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene g lyco Id ipa imitation.

[0086] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C 2-22 alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether. Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C 2-22 alkanols, such as glycerin, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol, which may be esterified if desired, e.g., PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-9 butyl ether, PPG-10 butanediol, PPG-15 stearyl ether, and glycereth-7 diisononanoate.

[0087] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the O8-O22 fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic O2-O7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid, e.g. C12-C15 alkyl lactate.

[0088] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with O3-22-alkanols, O3-22-alkanediols or O3-22-alkanetriols, e.g. dicaprylyl carbonate, or the esters according to DE 19756454 A1, in particular glycerol carbonate.

[0089] Further cosmetic oils which are suitable according to the invention are selected from the silicone oils, which include, for example, dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0090] According to the invention, it may be extremely preferable to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils.

[0091] Preferred bleaching agents according to the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic oil is selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably from paraffin oils, C18-C16 isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, C8-C16 isoparaffins, and 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane; the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C8-C22 alkanols; fatty alcohols with 6-30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated; triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-C10 fatty acids, in particular natural oils; the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C22-C10 alkanols;the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2 - 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2 - 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated; the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C8-22 alkanols; the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C8-22 alkanols; the C8-C8-22 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids; the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C3-22 alkanols, C3-22 alkanediols or C3-22 alkanetriols; the esters of dimers of unsaturated Ci2-O22 fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monohydric linear, branched or cyclic O2-Ci8 alkanols or with polyhydric linear or branched O2-O6 alkanols;silicone oils and mixtures of the aforementioned substances and preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 15 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 1 - 8 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2 - 6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the bleaching agent;

[0092] Bleaching agents preferred according to the invention optionally contain at least one polymer selected from acrylic acid homo- and copolymers, methacrylic acid homo- and copolymers, itaconic acid homo- and copolymers, polysaccharides which may be chemically and / or physically modified, and mixtures of these polymers, wherein particularly preferably one or more of the said polymers are contained in a total amount of 0.1 - 6 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 1 - 3.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2 - 3 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the bleaching agent.

[0093] In a preferred embodiment, composition (A) may optionally further comprise 2-[2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonio)propoxy]ethylcellulose ether chloride. The 2-[2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonio)propoxy]ethylcellulose ether chloride is preferably present in a total amount of 0.01-1.00 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.10-0.60 wt.%, further particularly preferably 0.20-0.48 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 0.30-0.47 wt.%, based in each case on the weight of the bleaching powder.

[0094] In a preferred embodiment, composition (A) further contains at least one amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, or at least one of the salts of these amino acids. Arginine is extremely preferred. Mixtures of arginine and lysine may be particularly preferred according to the invention. Among the salts of arginine, lysine, or histidine that are particularly suitable according to the invention are the ammonium salts, alkali metal salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, in particular the lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium salts, as well as the hydrohalides, in particular the hydrochlorides, and mixtures of these salts. A particularly preferred amino acid salt according to the invention is lysine hydrochloride. The amino acids suitable according to the invention, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, and their salts, may also contain water of crystallization.

[0095] Compositions (A) preferred according to the invention can contain at least one amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or at least one salt of these amino acids in a total amount, converted to the mass of free amino acid, of 0.1 - 7 wt.%, preferably 0.2 - 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 2.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1 - 2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (A).

[0096] Composition (B)

[0097] The composition (B) in the bleaching agent according to the invention contains 50-96% by weight, preferably 70-93%, particularly preferably 80-90% water and 0.5-20% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, in each case based on the weight of the composition (B), and furthermore at least one pH adjuster in an amount such that the composition (B) has a pH in the range from 2.5 to 5.5, in particular from 3 to 5, measured at 20°C.

[0098] Composition (B) in the bleaching agent according to the invention essentially contains water and hydrogen peroxide. The concentration of hydrogen peroxide is determined partly by legal requirements and partly by the desired effect. It is 0.5-20 wt.%, preferably 3-12 wt.%, particularly preferably 6-9 wt.% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2), in each case based on the weight of composition (B).

[0099] To stabilize the hydrogen peroxide, composition (B) in the bleaching agent according to the invention preferably has an acidic pH, in particular a pH in the range of 2.5 to 5.5, in particular 3 to 5, measured at 20°C. Complexing agents, preservatives, and / or buffer substances are preferably also included to stabilize the hydrogen peroxide.

[0100] Particularly preferred bleaching agents according to the invention further contain, in composition (B), at least one oil and / or at least one fatty component with a melting point in the range of 23-110°C, preferably in a total amount of 0.1-60 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5-40 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2-24 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of composition (B). The oils suitable for the bleaching agents preferred according to the invention in composition (B) are the same oils disclosed above as suitable dust removal agents.

[0101] Fat components preferably used in composition (B) according to the invention with a melting point in the range of 23 - 110 °C are selected from linear saturated 1-alkanols having 12 - 30 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 3.0 to 6.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of composition (B).

[0102] Preferably, the at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol having 12 - 30 carbon atoms is selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol as well as from mixtures of these 1-alkanols, particularly preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol mixtures.

[0103] Bleaching agents preferred according to the invention further contain in the composition (B), in each case based on their weight, at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.1-8 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 2-6 wt.%, wherein at least one 1-alkanol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol mixtures is present.

[0104] Further compositions (B) preferred according to the invention contain at least one fatty component having a melting point in the range of 23 - 110 °C, which is selected from esters of a saturated, monohydric C18-C16 alkanol and a saturated C5-C58 monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C20-C40 alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C12 - C50 carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C14 - C36 carboxylic acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

[0105] Further bleaching agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one surfactant or at least one emulsifier in composition (B), preferably in a total amount of 0.5-10 wt. %, preferably 1-5 wt. %, each based on the weight of composition (B). Surfactants and emulsifiers within the meaning of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds consisting of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic molecular moiety. The hydrophobic radical is preferably a hydrocarbon chain with 8-28 carbon atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. This C8-C28 alkyl chain is particularly preferably linear. Basic properties of surfactants and emulsifiers are oriented absorption at interfaces, aggregation into micelles, and the formation of lyotropic phases.

[0106] According to the invention, anionic, nonionic, and cationic surfactants are particularly suitable. However, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants are also very suitable.

[0107] Suitable anionic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention include all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono-, dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates as well as alkyl and / or alkenyl phosphates.Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids, each containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and up to 12 glycol ether groups, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups, in the molecule. Examples of such surfactants are the compounds with the INCI names Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate.

[0108] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate, or sulfate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate; N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate; and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.Amphoteric surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C5-C24 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO5H group and are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-C18 acylsarcosine. Non-ionic surfactants contain, for example, as a hydrophilic group. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group.Such compounds are, for example, addition products of 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols, with fatty acids and with alkylphenols, each with 8 to 20 C atoms in the alkyl group, ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides, such as, for example, glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide, and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates (Tween 20, Tween 21, Tween 60, Tween 61, Tween 81), addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, and alkyl polyglycosides. Particularly suitable non-ionic surfactants are C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues as well as ethylene oxide addition products with saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohols, each containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol.

[0109] Further bleaching agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant in composition (B) is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids each having 10 to 18 C atoms, preferably 12 to 14 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups, in the molecule.Further bleaching agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that composition (B) contains at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from ethylene oxide addition products onto saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohols, each containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol, and at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids, each containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups, in the molecule, wherein the weight ratio of the total of all anionic surfactants to the total of all non-ionic surfactants is particularly preferably in the range of 5 - 50, preferably 10 - 30.

[0110] Suitable cationic surfactants in composition (B) of the bleaching agents preferred according to the invention are, in principle, all cationic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by at least one water-solubilizing, cationic group, such as a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one water-solubilizing, cationizable group, such as an amine group, and furthermore at least one (lipophilic) alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms or at least one (lipophilic) imidazole group or at least one (lipophilic) imidazole alkyl group.

[0111] Bleaching agents particularly preferred according to the invention contain in composition (B) at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from quaternary ammonium compounds having at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical, esterquats and amidoamines each having at least one C8-C24 acyl radical, and mixtures thereof. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds having at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides, and ammonium alkyl sulfates, such as methosulfates or ethosulfates, such as C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, C8-C24 dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and C8-C24 trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87 and Quaternium-91.The alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0112] Esterquats are cationic surfactants that contain at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element, as well as at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical or C8-C24 acyl radical. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, and Armocare®. N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium methosulfate, and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate are preferred examples of such esterquats.

[0113] Alkylamidoamines are typically produced by amidation of natural or synthetic C8-C24 fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with di-(C1-C3)alkylaminoamines. A particularly suitable compound from this group of substances according to the invention is stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0114] Bleaching agents particularly preferred according to the invention contain in composition (B) at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.01 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3 - 2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of composition (B).

[0115] Composition (C)

[0116] Bleaching agents according to the invention optionally contain a composition (C) containing at least one persalt, which is defined as indicated above.

[0117] Bleaching agents according to the invention preferably only contain a composition (C) if the composition (A) does not contain an oxidizing agent selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0118] The ingredients of composition (C) are selected from the ingredients that may be present in a composition (A) containing an oxidizing agent selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Particularly preferred bleaching agents according to the invention, which contain a composition (C), contain ammonia or an amine, preferably ammonia or monoethanolamine, particularly preferably ammonia, as an alkalizing agent in composition (A). Composition (D)

[0120] Bleaching agents according to the invention optionally contain a composition (D) containing a vanillin derivative and optionally water. Preferably, a composition (D) is only present if none of the compositions (A), (B), or (C) contains a vanillin derivative.

[0121] In order to cover undesirable color tones arising during bleaching, the bleaching agent according to the invention optionally contains, preferably in composition (A) or (C), at least one direct-acting dye. These are dyes that are absorbed directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. To matt undesirable residual color impressions caused by melanin degradation products, particularly in the reddish or bluish range, certain direct-acting dyes of complementary colors are particularly preferably included. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols. Direct dyes can be anionic, cationic, or non-ionic. The direct dyes are each preferably present in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the weight of composition (A) or (C).

[0122] Preferred anionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Bromophenol Blue and Tetrabromophenol Blue. Preferred cationic direct dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, for example Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B) and direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.The cationic direct dyes marketed under the trademark Arianor are also preferred cationic direct dyes according to the invention. Particularly suitable nonionic direct dyes are nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Preferred nonionic direct dyes are those known under the international designations "Arianor" and "Arianor" respectively.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)- amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitro- phenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1 -methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5- chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2- nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthochi- non, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoe- säure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.According to the invention, a combination of Tetrabromophenol Blue and Acid Red 92 is particularly preferably included.

[0123] Bleaching agents and agents for coloring keratin-containing fibers according to the invention can additionally contain, in composition (A) or optionally composition (C), color pigments for coloring the bleaching agent, which do not serve to color the keratin-containing fibers. The color pigments are preferably selected from commercially available color pigments and are present in a total amount of 0.1-1 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.7 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3-0.5 wt.%, based on the weight of composition (A) or optionally composition (C).

[0124] Application mixture

[0125] According to the invention, the bleaching agent is preferably composed such that the mixture of composition (A) with (B) and optionally (C) and optionally (D) has a pH of 8 to 12, preferably from 8.5 to 11.5, particularly preferably from 9 to 10.5, extraordinarily preferably a pH of 9.5 to 10.2, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0126] The bleaching agent according to the invention is usually in the form of a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) before use.

[0127] A further subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) for lightening keratin fibers, which contains at least two separately packaged components and which is characterized in that i) the first component (I) consists of the composition (A), ii) the second component (II) consists of the composition (B), optionally iii) a further component (III) consists of the composition (C), and optionally iv) a further component (IV) consists of the composition (D), wherein in the absence of a component (III) the components (I) and (II) are preferably present in a weight-related ratio (I):(II) of 0.2-1, particularly preferably 0.3-0.8, further preferably 0.4-0.7, extraordinarily preferably 0.5-0.6, and in the presence of a component (III) the components (I), (II) and (III) are present in a weight-related ratio (I):(II):(III) of (2 - 3) : (2 - 3) : (0.7 - 1 .3),particularly preferably (2.3 - 2.7): (2.3 - 2.7): (0.8 - 1.2), extraordinarily preferably 2:2:1. In multi-component packaging units (kit of parts) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, a component (IV) is present, wherein the weight-related ratio (II): (IV) is 20 - 2, preferably 15 - 5, particularly preferably 12 - 8. A multi-component packaging unit comprises several individual components which are packaged separately from one another, as well as a common packaging for these components, for example a folding box. In this box, the components are each provided separately in different containers. In the context of the present invention, a container is understood to mean a wrapping which is in the form of an optionally resealable bottle, a tube, a can, a sachet,a sachet or similar wrapping. According to the invention, there are no limits to the wrapping material. However, wrappings made of glass or plastic are preferred.

[0128] In addition, the packaging unit may include application aids such as combs, brushes or paintbrushes, personal protective clothing, in particular disposable gloves, and instructions for use.

[0129] A further object of the present invention is the use of a bleaching agent according to the invention for the oxidative lightening of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.

[0130] The present invention further provides a process for the oxidative lightening of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that the compositions (A) and (B) and optionally (C) and optionally (D) are mixed with one another and immediately thereafter applied to the keratin-containing fibers, left on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes and then the fibers are rinsed with water and optionally washed out with a surfactant-containing cleaning agent, wherein in the absence of the composition (C), the composition (A) and the composition (B) are preferably mixed with one another in a weight-related ratio (A):(B) of 0.2-1, particularly preferably 0.3-0.8, further preferably 0.4-0.7, extraordinarily preferably 0.5-0.6, and in the presence of the composition (C), the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are mixed in a weight-related ratio (A):(B):(C) of (2 - 3) : (2 - 3) : (0.7 - 1 .3),particularly preferably (2.3 - 2.7): (2.3 - 2.7): (0.8 - 1.2), extraordinarily preferably 2:2:1. In processes particularly preferred according to the invention, composition (D) is contained in the bleaching agent, the weight ratio (B): (D) being 20 - 2, preferably 15 - 5, particularly preferably 12 - 8.

[0131] The present invention further relates to agents for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. These agents are essentially composed of the same components as the bleaching agents according to the invention, but additionally contain, in one of components (A) or (B) or optionally (C) or optionally (D), preferably in (A) or (C), particularly preferably in (A), at least one hair color-modifying oxidation dye precursor or at least one direct dye.

[0132] A further subject of the present invention is therefore a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which the compositions (A), (B), (C) and optionally (D) of an agent according to the invention or preferred according to the invention for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, are mixed with one another, immediately thereafter applied to the keratin-containing fibers, left on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes and then the fibers are rinsed with water and optionally washed out with a surfactant-containing cleaning agent, wherein the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are preferably mixed with one another in a weight-related ratio (A): (B): (C) of (2-3): (2-3): (0.7-1.3), particularly preferably (2.3-2.7): (2.3-2.7): (0.8-1.2), extraordinarily preferably 2:2:1.

[0133] According to the invention, the colorant is preferably composed such that the mixture of compositions (A), (B), (C) and optionally (D), i.e. the ready-to-use colorant, has an alkaline pH, preferably a pH of 8 to 112, particularly preferably a pH of 8.5 to 11.5, extraordinarily preferably a pH of 9.0 to 10.5, in each case measured at 20 °C.

[0134] Ready-to-use agents for coloring keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, preferably have a viscosity in the range of 15,000 to 100,000 mPas, particularly preferably 20,000 to 85,000 mPas, each measured at 20°C using a Brookfield type DV-II+ viscometer, spindle 5, at a speed of 4 revolutions per minute. A viscosity in this range allows the ready-to-use agent to be easily applied and, at the same time, to have such flow properties that it guarantees a sufficiently long contact time for the agent at the site of action on the keratin fibers.

[0135] In order to facilitate the miscibility of the compositions (A), (B), (C) and optionally (D) and to improve the application properties of the resulting application mixture, the composition (A) preferably contains, in each case based on its weight, at least one surfactant in a total amount of 0.5 - 10 wt.%, preferably 2 - 8 wt.%.

[0136] The suitable surfactants are selected from the same anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers disclosed above as surfactants and emulsifiers suitable for composition (B).

[0137] Agents particularly preferably used according to the invention for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, further contain in composition (A) at least one oil and / or at least one fatty component with a melting point in the range of 23-110°C, preferably in a total amount of 0.1-60 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5-40 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2-24 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of composition (A). The suitable oils are the same oils disclosed above as suitable dedusting agents.

[0138] Fat components preferably used in composition (A) according to the invention with a melting point in the range of 23-110°C are selected from linear saturated 1-alkanols having 12-30 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount of 0.1-20 wt.%, particularly preferably 3-15 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 5-10 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of composition (A). Preferably, the at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms is selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, as well as from mixtures of these 1-alkanols, particularly preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol mixtures.

[0139] Agents preferably used according to the invention for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, further comprise in the composition (A), in each case based on their weight, at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol having 12 - 30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.1 - 20 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 3 - 15 wt.%, extremely preferably 5 - 10 wt.%, wherein at least one 1-alkanol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol mixtures is present.

[0140] Further agents preferably used according to the invention for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contain in the composition (A) at least one fatty component with a melting point in the range of 23 - 110 °C, which is selected from esters of a saturated, monohydric Cie-Ceo alkanol and a saturated Ca-Cse monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C2o-C4o alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C12 - C50 carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C14 - C36 carboxylic acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

[0141] Furthermore, the agents according to the invention or preferred according to the invention for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contain at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or a direct dye in the composition (A) or (C).

[0142] The at least one oxidation dye precursor preferably consists of one or more developer components and optionally one or more coupler components.

[0143] Particularly preferably, at least one oxidation dye precursor is present in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.001 to 8 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (A) or (C).

[0144] It may be preferred according to the invention to select as developer component at least one compound from the group formed by p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-propan-2-ol, N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1 ,4-diazacyclo-heptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-(diethyl- aminomethylphenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically tolerated salts.

[0145] Preferably, at least one developer component is present in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.001 to 8 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (A).

[0146] Coupler components do not produce significant coloration on their own during oxidative coloration, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, according to the invention, it is preferred that at least one coupler component be used in addition when using at least one developer component.

[0147] Coupler components preferred according to the invention are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-

[0148] 2-methylphenol, N-Cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-ami- no-phenoxyethanol, 2,6-Dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-Trifluoroacetylamino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-Amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-2- methylphenol, 3-(Diethylamino)phenol, N-Cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1 ,3-Dihydroxy-5-(methyl- amino)benzol, 3-Ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2,4-Dichlor-3-aminophenol, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)- ethanol, 1 ,3-Bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol, 1 ,3-Bis-(2,4-diaminophenyl)propan, 2, 6-Bis-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2- Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2- methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)- ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenyl- amin, 1-Amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin,Resorcinmonomethylether, 2-Methyl- resorcin, 5-Methylresorcin, 2,5-Dimethylresorcin, 2-Chlorresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, Pyrogallol,

[0149] 1 ,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol, 2,6-Dihydroxypyridin, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin, 2-Amino-5-chlor-3-hydro- xypyridin, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 2,6- Dihydroxy-4-methylpyridin, 2,6-Diaminopyridin, 2,3-Diamino-6-methoxypyridin, 3,5-Diamino-2,6- dimethoxypyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 3,4-Diaminopyridin, 2-(2-Methoxyethyl)amino-

[0150] 3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-(4'-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 1-naph-thol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline, 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-Diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine or mixtures of these compounds or their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0151] Preferably, at least one coupler component is present in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.001 to 8 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of composition (A) or (C).

[0152] Developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately equimolar amounts. Although equimolar use has proven advantageous, a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not detrimental, so that developer components and coupler components can be present in a molar ratio of 0.2-2, especially 0.5-1.

[0153] The direct dyes are preferably those already described above. The exposure time is preferably 5 to 60 minutes, in particular 5 to 50 minutes, particularly preferably 10 to 45 minutes. While the agent is on the fiber, it can be advantageous to support the lightening or color-changing process by applying heat. A exposure phase at room temperature is also according to the invention. In particular, the temperature during the exposure time is between 20°C and 40°C, in particular between 25°C and 38°C. The agents produce good treatment results even at physiologically acceptable temperatures below 45°C. After the color-changing process is complete, all components present on the keratin fibers are rinsed from the hair with water or a surfactant-containing cleanser.Commercially available shampoo can be used as a cleaning agent, in particular, whereby the cleaning agent can be omitted and the rinsing process can be carried out with tap water if the color-changing agent has a higher surfactant content. The present invention further relates to the use of vanillin derivatives.

[0154] In particular, the use of an additive in a bleaching agent is described, wherein the additive has the following structure:

[0155] where -R is selected from -H, -OH, -NH2, -alkyl, -alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl, -COCH3, -CHO, -COOH, -COOR, -CN, -NO2, -SO3H, -F, -CI, -Br, -I.

[0156] According to a preferred embodiment, the use of the additive in a bleaching agent, wherein the radical R is selected from -H, -OH or -CHs, is described.

[0157] According to a further preferred embodiment, the use of the additive in a bleaching agent for reducing damage to keratin fibers is described.

[0158] According to one embodiment of the use, the bleaching agent does not contain any additives. Rather, the consumer adds the additive to the bleaching agent upon use.

[0159] Preference is given to using the additive in an agent for changing the color of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, which contains at least one oxidizing agent selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, and mixtures thereof, and furthermore at least one complexing agent selected from the following acids and / or their alkali metal salts: ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA); N-hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminotrimethylenephosphonic acid;

[0160] Diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid; lauroylethylenediaminetriacetic acid; nitrilotriacetic acid;

[0161] Iminodisuccinic acid; N-2-hydroxyethyliminodiacetic acid; ethylene glycol bis-(beta-aminoethyl ether)-N,N-tetraacetic acid; aminotrimethylenephosphonic acid, pentasodium aminotrimethylenephosphonate, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.1 - 1.4 wt.%, preferably 0.2 - 1.4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 1.4 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the bleaching agent, for reducing the damage to keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which is caused by the treatment of these fibers with an oxidative agent for changing the color of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.

[0162] What has been said about the bleaching agents or agents for changing the color of keratin-containing fibers according to the invention and preferred according to the invention also applies mutatis mutandis to the multi-component packaging units (kits of parts) according to the invention and preferred according to the invention.

[0163] This applies to the bleaching agents or agents for changing the color of keratin-containing fibers according to the invention and preferred according to the invention. The above also applies, mutatis mutandis, to the methods for lightening and / or changing the color of keratin fibers according to the invention and preferred according to the invention.

[0164] What has been said about the bleaching agents or agents for changing the color of keratin-containing fibers according to the invention and preferred according to the invention also applies mutatis mutandis to the use according to the invention.

[0165] EXAMPLES

[0166] Table 1 : Composition (A)

[0167] Table 2: Composition (B)

[0168] Compositions (A) and (B) were mixed together in a weight ratio (A):(B) of 5:10 and the respective additive was added. 2. Application

[0169] Kerling Natural Strands (4-0) hair strands were cleaned and dried. The freshly prepared mixture of the bleaching agent compositions was applied to the dry strands (4 g of application mixture per gram of hair). After a contact time of 45 minutes at 32°C, the strands were rinsed with warm tap water for two minutes and then air-dried. This bleaching process was repeated once, so that the strands were bleached twice in succession.

[0170] 3. Measurements of cysteic acid content and lightening value

[0171] To measure the hair damage caused by bleaching, the cysteic acid value of each treated hair strand was determined using quantitative NIR spectroscopy.

[0172] The spectra were recorded using an MPA™ FT-NIR spectrometer from Bruker Optik GmbH. The near-infrared range covered the wavenumber range of 12500 cm -1 up to 4000 cm- 1 and is characteristic for overtone and combination vibrations of e.g. CH, OH and NH groups.

[0173] The measurements were carried out using the integrating sphere module at six different sample positions in diffuse reflection. For the analysis of the measured NIR spectra, the wavenumber range of 7300 cm -1 up to 4020 cnr 1 chosen.

[0174] The NIR spectra of cystine show in the wavenumber range of 6200 cm -1 up to 5500 cm -1characteristic absorption bands. If the hair changes due to more severe damage (ie the cysteic acid content in the hair increases), this affects the bands in the NIR spectrum that are characteristic of cysteic acid at 5020 cm -1 up to 4020 cm -1 The quantitative analysis of the NIR spectra was carried out using computer-aided methods.

[0175] Spectral analysis can be used to determine the proportion of free cysteic acid compared to untreated hair. The higher the value, the more damaged the hair is by bleaching.

[0176] Two strands of hair were bleached, with a total of 6 values ​​recorded for each treatment type and the mean value calculated.

[0177] All bleached hair strands were further measured using an X-Right "exact" colorimeter, and the measured colors were described based on their coordinates in the CIELAB L*, a*, b* color space. The L* value describes the brightness, the a* value the green or red components, and the b* value the blue or yellow components of the colors.

[0178] The deviation of the hair color shade after bleaching in the presence of the combinations E1, V1-V7 from the hair color shade after bleaching without the addition of acids and alkylene carbonates was calculated using the distance AE in the L*, a*, b* color space. The distance AE is defined as AE=[(L* - Lo) 2 + (a* - ao) 2 + (b* - bo) 2 ] 05 , where L*, a*, and b* are the coordinates of the color tone after bleaching in the presence of a combination of E1, V1-V7, and Lo, ao, and bo are the coordinates of the color tone before bleaching. Color differences of AE < 2 are not noticeable to the untrained eye.

[0179] Table 3a: Comparative examples

[0180] Table 3b: Inventive examples with vanillin

[0181] Table 3c: Examples according to the invention with vanillic acid

[0182]

[0183] Table 3d: Inventive examples with acetovanillon

[0184] C1 contains no protective additives. The other comparative compositions, C2 and C3, use known hair protection additives from the state of the art.

[0185] The inventive examples E1, E2, and E3 according to Table 2b contain vanillin as composition (D), which is added to the application mixture. The procedure was similar for the vanillin derivatives of examples E4, E5, E6, and E7. However, it should be emphasized that the invention also encompasses those compositions in which vanillin, vanillic acid, or acetovanillone is already added to one of the compositions (A) and / or (B), in that this does not need to be provided as an additional component of a kit of parts.

[0186] The experimental data clearly demonstrate the protective effect of vanillin on hair. The composition according to the invention is clearly superior to the comparative compositions. This applies not only to comparative composition C1, which does not contain any stabilizing additive, but surprisingly also to comparative compositions C2 and C3, which contain additives from the prior art.

[0187] A range of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, especially 0.01 to 5 wt.%, is preferred. Although very high vanillin additions, such as those represented by E3, can achieve a more extensive protective function, such high concentrations result in slight discoloration, which limits the quality of the bleaching result. Therefore, compositions E1 and E2 are considered particularly preferred, as they provide excellent hair protection without causing discoloration. However, due to its significantly superior stabilizing effect, E3 remains preferred over compositions C1, C2, and C3.

[0188] As Table 2c shows, surprisingly good results are also achieved with vanillin derivatives, especially vanillic acid or acetovanillone, according to Examples E4, E5, E6, and E7. All tests conducted show significant improvements in hair stability in terms of a reduction in cystine bridge cleavage compared to the compositions without additives and even compared to those compositions containing the commercially available additives Olaplex and Fibreplex from the prior art.

[0189] In addition to the hair-protecting effect, it was also found that the additives according to the invention achieve a good bleaching effect, as demonstrated by the Delta E values. The hair-protecting effect thus occurs without significantly impairing the bleaching result.

[0190] 4. Measurements of temperature development

[0191] Furthermore, temperature measurements were carried out according to the following instructions:

[0192] Measurement of the temperature profile over the application time in a beaker by adding a Cu solution at room temperature to a 250 ml beaker. 20 g of composition A : 20 g of composition B (1 : 1 ratio) were mixed homogeneously. Subsequently, for each of the examples C1, C2, C3, E4-N, E5 and E7, the corresponding additive was added and mixed homogeneously. Depending on the test series, 1 g of a Cu solution with 500 ppm Cu was then added (optional). 2+ added to the mixture and mixed until homogeneous. The temperature development in the beaker was then immediately measured.

[0193] The following experimental results were obtained, showing the temperature development as a function of time:

[0194] Table 4a: Comparative examples

[0195] Table 4b: Examples according to the invention with vanillin (0.025 wt.% E4-N):

[0196] Table 4c: Examples according to the invention with vanillic acid (0.025 wt%)

[0197] Table 4d: Examples according to the invention with acetovanillone (0.025 wt%):

[0198] Especially in the presence of Cu 2+ Ions can result in significant heat generation.

[0199] Cu 2+ Ions can reach the hair and scalp in different ways.

[0200] Some hair care products contain copper compounds. These products can apply copper ions directly to the hair.

[0201] Furthermore, in some regions, tap water can contain copper ions, especially if the water pipes are made of copper or the water comes into contact with copper pipes. Hair can absorb these ions from the water. Swimming pool water can contain copper ions, especially if copper-containing algaecides are used. Hair can absorb these ions when it comes into contact with the water.

[0202] Air pollution and environmental pollution can also contain copper ions. Hair can absorb these ions from the air when exposed to them.

[0203] Excessive heat development is undesirable when treating human hair. Excessive heat development can pose a safety risk to the user and even lead to termination of the treatment. Therefore, compositions with reduced heat development are preferred.

[0204] In addition to their hair-protecting effect, it was surprisingly found that vanillin and vanillic acid significantly reduced the temperature development compared to the control tests. Thus, the temperature reduction acts as an additional technical or bonus effect alongside the hair-protecting and bleaching effects.

Claims

Patent claims 1 . Bleaching agent for the oxidative lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising a) a composition (A) containing at least one alkalizing agent and optionally at least one persalt; and / or b) a composition (B) having a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably 3 to 5, particularly preferably 3.2 to 4, containing hydrogen peroxide, characterized in that the bleaching agent comprises at least one additive having the following structural formula: where -R is selected from: -H, -OH, -NH 2 , -alkyl, -alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl, -CN, -NO 2 , -SO3H, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I.

2. Bleaching agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the radical -R is selected from one of the following -H, -OH or -CH3.

3. Bleaching agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the additive is present either in composition (A) or composition (B) or in composition (C) or in an additional composition (D).

4. Bleaching agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the additive is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 3 wt.%, more preferably 0.01 to 2 wt.%, based on the weight of the bleaching agent.

5. Multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for lightening keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing a bleaching agent according to a of the preceding claims in at least two separate packaging segments, characterized in that Composition (A) is packaged in the first segment (I), composition (B) is packaged in the second segment (II), optionally composition (C) is packaged in a third segment (III), and optionally composition (D) is packaged in a fourth segment (IV).

6. A method for the oxidative lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that all components of a bleaching agent according to one of the preceding claims are mixed together, immediately thereafter applied to the keratin fibers, left on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes, then the fibers are rinsed with water and optionally washed out with a surfactant-containing cleaning agent.

7. Use of an additive, wherein the additive has the following structure: where -R is selected from -H, -OH, -NH 2 , -alkyl, -alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl, -CN, -NO 2, -SO3H, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I; wherein the radical R is more preferably selected from -H, -OH or -CH3 and the use comprises the addition of the additive to a bleaching agent, preferably for the oxidative lightening of keratin-containing fibers, in particular for reducing damage to keratin fibers by oxidative hair lightening.

8. Use of a bleaching agent comprising: a) a composition (A) comprising at least one alkalizing agent and optionally at least one persalt; and / or b) a composition (B) having a pH of 2.5 to 5.5, preferably 3 to 5, particularly preferably 3.2 to 4, containing hydrogen peroxide, characterized in that the use of the bleaching agent comprises the addition of at least one additive having the following structural formula: where -R is selected from -H, -OH, -NH 2 , -alkyl, -alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl, -CN, -NO 2, -SO3H, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I; wherein the radical R is more preferably selected from -H, -OH or -CH3.

9. Use of a bleaching agent according to the preceding claim for the oxidative lightening of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.

10. Use of a bleaching agent according to one of the two preceding claims for reducing damage to keratin fibers caused by oxidative hair lightening.

Citation Information

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