UV shielding composition
The composition, featuring a combination of oils, solid UV filters, C1-3 monoalcohols, and polyamide polycondensates, addresses the challenge of achieving high SPF and fluidity in UV shielding compositions, resulting in a stable and effective UV shielding cosmetic.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/JP2024/080214
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-01-19
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-03
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-19
AI Technical Summary
Existing UV shielding compositions struggle to achieve a high sun protection factor (SPF) while maintaining good fluidity and stability.
A composition comprising at least one oil, one solid lipophilic UV filter, one C1-3 monoalcohol, and one polyamide polycondensate, with the C1-3 monoalcohol present at 10% or more by weight and the polyamide polycondensate weighted ratio to oil being 0.15 or less, enhancing SPF value and fluidity.
The composition achieves an enhanced SPF value, good fluidity, and stability, making it suitable for use as a UV shielding cosmetic composition.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION
[0003] UV SHIELDING COMPOSITION
[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0005] The present invention relates to a composition which is capable of effectively shielding UV rays.
[0006] BACKGROUND ART
[0007] Generally, UV filters are utilized to provide protection from UV (Ultra Violet) rays. Numerous anti-sun compositions intended for protecting the skin from UV-A and / or UV-B have been proposed to date.
[0008] These anti-sun compositions often take the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, of gels, or of non-aqueous products which contain, in various concentrations, one or more insoluble and / or fat-soluble and / or water-soluble, organic and / or inorganic UV filters that are capable of selectively absorbing the harmful UV radiation. These UV filters and their amounts are selected as a function of the desired sun protection factor (SPF).
[0009] The sun protection factor (SPF) mathematically expresses the ratio of the dose of UV radiation necessary to achieve the erythematogenic threshold with the UV screening agent to the dose of UV radiation necessary to achieve the erythematogenic threshold without the UV screening agent.
[0010] To date, some prior art documents relating to anti-sun compositions comprising a SPF booster such as hollow particles to enhance UV protecting effects have been published. However, there has been a need for a composition having a higher sun protection factor which can be represented by a higher UV absorbance of the composition.
[0011] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0012] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which can have an enhanced SPF value, and good fluidity.
[0013] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, comprising:
[0014] (a) at least one oil;
[0015] (b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter;
[0016] (c) at least one C1-3monoalcohol; and
[0017] (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate, wherein the amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
[0018] The (a) oil may be selected from ester oils and liquid lipophilic UV filters.
[0019] The ester oil may be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C12- 15 alkyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0020] The liquid lipophilic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and mixtures thereof.
[0021] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] The (b) solid lipophilic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, buyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
[0023] The amount of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filters) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] The (c) C1-3monoalcohol may be ethanol.
[0025] The amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 30% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0026] The (d) polyamide polycondensate may be ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
[0027] The amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1.5% to 7% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 6.5% by weight, and more preferably from 2.5% to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0028] The composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous.
[0029] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a UV shielding cosmetic composition, and more preferably a UV shielding skin cosmetic composition.
[0030] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substance, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin substance.
[0031] The present invention also relates to a use of (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate in a composition, comprising:
[0032] (a) at least one oil;
[0033] (b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter; and
[0034] (c) at least one C1-3monoalcohol, wherein the amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less, in order to improve the UV shielding ability of the composition.
[0035] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which can have an enhanced SPF value and good fluidity.
[0036] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising:
[0037] (a) at least one oil;
[0038] (b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter;
[0039] (c) at least one C1-3monoalcohol; and
[0040] (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate, wherein the amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
[0041] In the composition according to the present invention, the (d) polyamide polycondensate can act as an SPF booster. The SPF value of the composition according to the present invention can be higher than that of the composition which is the same as the composition according to the present invention except that the composition does not include the (d) polyamide polycondensate. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can have an enhanced SPF value.
[0042] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention is capable of effectively shielding UV rays.
[0043] However, too much amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) can act adversely.
[0044] Therefore, in the composition according to the present invention, the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) is limited such that the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) is 0.15 or less, preferably from 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
[0045] On the other hand, the composition according to the present invention can have good fluidity such as low viscosity, as well as good texture such as freshness, due to the presence of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol in the composition in an amount of 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can also be stable such that no crystal of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter is observed over time.
[0047] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is useful as a cosmetic composition, preferably a UV shielding cosmetic composition, and more preferably a UV shielding skin cosmetic composition.
[0048] Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
[0049] [Composition]
[0050] The composition according to the present invention comprises
[0051] (a) at least one oil;
[0052] (b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter;
[0053] (c) at least one C1-3monoalcohol; and (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate, wherein the amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
[0054] (Oil)
[0055] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oil. A single type of oil may be used, but two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.
[0056] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oil(s) may be volatile or nonvolatile, preferably non-volatile.
[0057] The (a) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0058] The (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils.
[0059] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0060] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0061] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0062] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0063] Among the mono esters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0064] Esters of C4-C22dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0065] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2 -ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2 -ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0066] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30and preferably C12-C22fatty acids.
[0067] It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0068] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0069] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30and preferably C12-C22fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0070] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0071] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0072] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
[0073] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0074] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2- ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2- ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0075] The ester oil may be derived from an aromatic carboxylic acid such as a benzoic acid, and a monoalcohol such as a C12-C15alkanol. As examples of such ester oil, mention may be made of C12- 15 alkyl benzoate.
[0076] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0077] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0078] Preferably, silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0079] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organoftmctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0080] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0081] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0082] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
[0083] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- 1 , 1’ -bis(2,2,2 ’ ,2 ’ ,3 ,3 ’ -hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
[0084] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 1 (10-6m2 / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
[0085] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0086] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione®oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000; the oils of the Mirasil®series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm2 / s; the Viscasil®oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0087] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
[0088] Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0089] The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
[0090] Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0091] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil(e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0092] The amount of hydrocarbon oil(s), if present, in the composition according to the present invention may be more than 0.1% by weight, preferably more than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably more than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0093] The amount of hydrocarbon oil(s), if present, in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 20% by weight, and more preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0094] The amount of hydrocarbon oil(s), if present, in the composition according to the present invention may be more than 0.1% and less than 30% by weight, preferably more than 0.5% and less than 20% by weight, and more preferably more than 1% and less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] In one embodiment, the (a) oil may be selected from ester oils and liquid lipophilic UV filters.
[0096] As ester oils, those as described above may be used.
[0097] It is preferable that the ester oil be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C12- 15 alkyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] The amount of ester oil(s), if present, in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] The amount of ester oil(s), if present, in the composition according to the present invention may be 45% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0100] The amount of ester oil(s), if present, in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 45% by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0101] The term “liquid” here means being liquid at 25°C under 1 atm.
[0102] The term “UV” here means ultraviolet radiation and comprises the UV-B region (260-320 nm in wavelength) and the UV-A region (320-400 nm in wavelength).
[0103] The term “lipophilic” here means that a substance is soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).
[0104] As liquid lipophilic UV filters, mention may be made of salicylic compounds, cinnamate compounds, β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, and benzalmalonate compounds.
[0105] As the salicylic compounds, mention may be made of homosalate, marketed under the name “Eusolex HMS” by Rona / EM Industries, and ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS” by Symrise.
[0106] As the cinnamate compounds, mention may be made of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the name “PARSOL CX” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, isopropyl ethoxy cinnamate, isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, marketed under the name “NEO HELIOPAN E 1000” by Symrise, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, cinoxate, and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate, and DEA methoxy cinnamate and salts thereof.
[0107] As the β,β~diphenylacrylate compounds, mention may be made of octocrylene, marketed under the name “UVINULN539” by BASF, and etocrylene, marketed under the name “UVINULN35” by BASF.
[0108] As the benzalmalonate compounds, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes containing a benzahnalonate moiety, for example, Polysilicone-15, marketed under the name “Parsol SLX” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, and di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
[0109] It is preferable that the liquid lipophilic UV filter be selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and mixtures thereof.
[0110] The amount of liquid lipophilic UV filter(s), if present, in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0111] The amount of liquid lipophilic UV filter(s), if present, in the composition according to the present invention may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0112] The amount of liquid lipophilic UV filter(s), if present, in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 35% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0113] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0114] On the other hand, the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0115] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] (Solid Lipophilic UV Filter)
[0117] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter. A single type of solid lipophilic UV filter may be used, but two or more different types of solid lipophilic UV filter may be used in combination.
[0118] The term “UV” here means ultraviolet radiation and comprises the UV-B region (260-320 nm in wavelength) and the UV-A region (320-400 nm in wavelength).
[0119] The term “lipophilic” here means that a substance is soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).
[0120] The term “solid” here means being solid at 25°C under 1 atm.
[0121] The (b) solid organic UV filter used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, triazine compounds, dibenzoyhnethane compound, phenylbenzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds, para-aminobenzoic acid compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, imidazoline compounds, and dibenzoylmethane compounds, and merocyanine compounds. As the triazine compounds, mention may be made of ethylhexyl triazone, marketed under the name “UVINUL T-150” by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the name “UVASORB HEB” by SIGMA 2V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzahnalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzahnalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4’- aminobenzahnalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4’- aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the trademark « TINOSORB S » by Ciba Geigy.
[0122] As the dibenzoyhnethane compound, mention may be made of butyhnethoxydibenzoyhnethane or avobenzone sold under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products.
[0123] As the phenylbenzotriazole compounds, mention may be made of drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie.
[0124] As the triazine compounds, mention may be made of bis-(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by BASF, ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3 V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-arninobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6- tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6- (n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, the triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups as those described in EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3- {1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.
[0125] As the para-aminobenzoic acid compounds, mention may be made of para-aminobenzoates (PABA), for example, ethyl PABA (para-aminobenzoate), ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed under the name “ESCALOL 5972 from ISP, Glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, and salts thereof such as sold under the name “Uvinul P25” by BASF.
[0126] As the benzylidenecamphor compounds, mention may be made of 3 -benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “MEXORYL SD” from CHIMEX, methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “EUSOLEX 6300” by MERCK, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “MEXORYL SW” by CHIMEX, and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, marketed under the name “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex.
[0127] As the phenylbenzimidazole compounds, mention may be made of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed under the name “Eusolex 232” by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the name “Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer.
[0128] As the imidazoline compounds, mention may be made of ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
[0129] As the dibenzoylmethane compounds, mention may be made of butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffinann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane .
[0130] As the merocyanin compounds, mention may be made of octyl 5-N,N-diethylamino-2- phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate.
[0131] It is preferable that the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter be selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, buyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] The amount of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] On the other hand, the amount of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] The amount of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0135] ( C1-3Monoalcohol)
[0136] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one C1-3monoalcohol. A single type of C1-3monoalcohol may be used, but two or more different types of C1-3monoalcohols may be used in combination.
[0137] The (c) C1-3monoalcohol includes 1 to 3 carbon atoms. The (c) C1-3monoalcohol may be selected from monovalent aliphatic alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol, and isopropanol. It is preferable that the (c) C1-3monoalcohol be ethanol.
[0138] The amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0139] The composition according to the present invention can also have good fluidity such as low viscosity as well as good texture such as freshness, due to the presence of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol in an amount of 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0140] The amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0141] On the other hand, the amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] The composition according to the present invention can also be stable such that no crystal of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter is observed over time, in particular, if the amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) is 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0143] The amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 30% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] (Polyamide Polycondensate) The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate. A single type of polyamide polycondensate may be used, but two or more different types of polyamide polycondensates may be used in combination.
[0145] The term “polycondensate” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction, between monomers having different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functional groups.
[0146] The term “polymer” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound having at least 2 repeat units, preferably at least 3 repeat units, and better still 10 or more repeat units.
[0147] The (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensates can in particular be chosen from the polyamide polymers comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon repeat units provided with at least one nonpendent amide unit and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendent fatty chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized end fatty chain which comprise at least four carbon atoms and which are bonded to these hydrocarbon units.
[0148] The term “functionalized chains” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional or reactive groups chosen in particular from amide, hydroxyl, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene, halogen, including fluorinated or perfluorinated groups, ester, siloxane and polysiloxane groups. In addition, the hydrogen atoms of one or more fatty chains can be replaced at least partially by fluorine atoms.
[0149] The term “hydrocarbon repeat units” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, carrying hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched or cyclic. These units each additionally comprise at least one amide group which is advantageously nonpendent and which occurs in the polymeric backbone.
[0150] Advantageously, the pendent chains are directly bonded to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the polymeric backbone.
[0151] The (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensate can comprise, between the hydrocarbon units, silicone units or oxyalkylene units.
[0152] In addition, the (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensate may advantageously comprise from 40% to 98% of fatty chains, with respect to the total number of the amide units and fatty chains and better still from 50% to 95%.
[0153] Preferably, the pendent fatty chains are bonded to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units of the polymer. In particular, the fatty chains of this polyamide represent from 40% to 98% of the total number of the amide units and fatty chains and better still from 50% to 95%.
[0154] Advantageously, the (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensate may exhibit a weight-average molecular weight of less than 100 000 (in particular ranging from 1000 to 100 000), especially of less than 50 000 (in particular ranging from 1000 to 50 000) and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 and better still from 2000 to 10 000. The (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensate is insoluble in water, in particular at 25°C. It especially does not comprise an ionic group.
[0155] Mention may be made, as preferred lipophilic polyamide polycondensates which can be used in the present invention, of polyamides branched by pendent fatty chains and / or end fatty chains having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 120 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, each end fatty chain being bonded to the polyamide backbone via at least one bonding group L. The bonding group L can be chosen from ester, ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thioether, thiourea and thiourethane groups. Preferably, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polyamide backbone.
[0156] These polymers are preferably polymers resulting from a polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid having at least 32 carbon atoms (having in particular from 32 to 44 carbon atoms) and an amine chosen from diamines having at least 2 carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms) and triamines having at least two carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms). The diacid is preferably a dimer resulting from a fatty acid comprising ethylenic unsaturation having at least 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid. The diamine is preferably ethylenediamine, hexylenediamine or hexamethylenediamine. The triamine is, for example, ethylenetriamine.
[0157] For the polymers comprising one or two end carboxylic acid groups, it is advantageous to esterify them with a monoalcohol having at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 36 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and even better still from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, for example 18 carbon atoms.
[0158] The (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensate may be chosen in particular from polymers of following formula (A): in which: n is an integer ranging from 1 to 30,
[0159] R'1independently represents, in each case, a fatty chain and is chosen from an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least one carbon atom and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0160] R'2independently represents, in each case, a hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 52 carbon atoms;
[0161] R'3independently represents, in each case, an organic group comprising at least one atom chosen from carbon, hydrogen or nitrogen atoms, provided that R'3comprises at least 3 carbon atoms; R'4independently represents, in each case: a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a direct bond to at least one group chosen from R'3and another R'4, so that, when the said group is another R'4, the nitrogen atom to which both R'3and R'4are bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R'4-N- R'3, provided that at least 50% of the R'4groups represent a hydrogen atom, and
[0162] L represents a bonding group, preferably chosen from ester, ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thioether, thiourea or thiourethane, optionally substituted by at least one R'1group as defined above. According to one embodiment, these polymers are chosen from the polymers of formula (A) in which the bonding group L represents an ester group -C(=O)-O-.
[0163] These polymers are more especially those described in the document U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657 of Union Camp.
[0164] Each of these polymers may satisfy, in particular, the following formula (B): in which: m denotes an integral number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of the ester and amide groups;
[0165] R13s in each case independently an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0166] R2independently represents, in each case, a C4to C42hydrocarbon group, provided that 50% of the Ra groups represent a C30to C42hydrocarbon group;
[0167] R3independently represents, in each case, an organic group provided with at least two carbon atoms, with hydrogen atoms and optionally with one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and
[0168] R4independently represents, in each case, a hydrogen atom, a C1to C10alkyl group or a direct bond to R3or to another R4, so that the nitrogen atom to which both R3and R4are bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R4-N-R3, with at least 50% of the R4groups representing a hydrogen atom.
[0169] In the specific case of the formula (B), the optionally functionalized end fatty chains within the meaning of the present invention are end chains bonded to the final nitrogen atom of the polyamide backbone.
[0170] In particular, the ester groups of the formula (B), which form part of the end and / or pendent faty chains within the meaning of the present invention, represent from 15 to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups and beter still from 20 to 35%.
[0171] Furthermore, m advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5 and better still of greater than 2.
[0172] Preferably, R1is a C12to C22and preferably C16to C22alkyl group. Advantageously, R2can be a C10to C42hydrocarbon (alkylene) group. Preferably, at least 50% and beter still at least 75% of the R2groups are groups having from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other R2groups are hydrogenated C4to C19and even C4to C12groups.
[0173] Preferably, R3represents a C2to C36hydrocarbon group or a polyoxyalkylene group and R4represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R3represents a C2to C12hydrocarbon group. The hydrocarbon groups can be saturated or unsaturated and linear, cyclic or branched groups. Furthermore, the alkyl and alkylene groups can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched groups.
[0174] Generally, the polymers of formula (B) are provided in the form of blends of polymers, it being possible for these blends to additionally comprise a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (B) where n has the value 0, that is to say a diester.
[0175] According to a particularly preferred form of the present invention, use will be made of a blend of copolymers of a C36diacid condensed with ethylenediamine; the end ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid endings by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their mixtures (also known as cetearyl alcohol) (INCI name: Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer). Its weight-average molecular weight is preferably 6000. These blends are sold in particular by Arizona Chemical under the trade names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 VG respectively in the form of an 80% (as active material) gel in a mineral oil and of a 100% (as active material) gel. They have a softening point from 88° C. to 94° C.
[0176] Mention may also be made, as the polyamide polycondensates corresponding to the general formula (A), of polymers comprising at least one end fatty chain bonded to the polymeric backbone via at least one tertiary amide bonding group (also known as amide terminated polyamide or ATPA). Reference may be made, for further information on these polymers, to the document U.S. Pat. No. 6,503,522.
[0177] According to a particularly preferred form of the present invention, use will more particularly be made of a copolymer of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, ethylene-diamine and di(Ci4- C18)alkylamine(s) (INCI name: Ethylenediamine / Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-C18Alkyl Amide). This copolymer is sold in particular under the trade name Sylvaclear A200V by Arizona Chemical.
[0178] According to another embodiment, the polyamide of formula (A) can also be a poly(ester-amide) comprising ester ends (ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) or ETPEA), such as, for example, those whose preparation is described in the document U.S. Pat. No. 6,552,160.
[0179] According to a particularly preferred form of the present invention, use will more particularly be made of a copolymer of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, ethylenediamine, neopentyl glycol and stearyl alcohol (INCI name: Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine / Neopentyl Glycol / Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer). This copolymer is sold in particular under the trade name Sylvaclear C75 V by Arizona Chemical.
[0180] Mention may also be made, as polyamide polycondensates which can be used in the present invention, of those comprising at least one end fatty chain bonded to the polymeric backbone via at least one ether or polyether bonding group (it is then said to be an ether terminated poly(ether)amide). Such polymers are described, for example, in the document U.S. Pat. No. 6,399,713.
[0181] The (d) polyamide polycondensates in accordance with the present invention may advantageously have a softening point of greater than 65°C which can range up to 190°C. Preferably, it exhibits a softening point ranging from 70 to 130°C, and better still from 80 to 105°C. The polyamide is in particular a nonwaxy polymer. Mention may also be made, as the (d) polyamide polycondensates which can be used in the present invention, of polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and of a diamine (including the compounds having more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amine groups), the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent whole units being condensed via an amide bond. These polyamide resins are in particular those sold under the Versamid® trademark by General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or under the Onamid® trademark, in particular Onamid S or C, by Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp. These resins have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000. Reference may be made, for further information on these polyamides, to the documents U.S. Pat. No. 3,645,705 and U.S. Pat. No. 3,148,125. More especially, Versamid® 930 or 744 is used.
[0182] Use may also be made of the polyamides sold by Arizona Chemical under the Uni-Rez references (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and of the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 by Henkel. Reference may be made, for further information on these polyamides, to the document U.S. Pat. No. 5,500,209.
[0183] It is also possible to use polyamide resins resulting from vegetables, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,998,570.
[0184] It is in particular preferable that the (d) polyamide polycondensate be ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
[0185] The amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.0% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0186] On the other hand, the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 7.0% by weight or less, preferably 6.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 6.0% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0187] The amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 7.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 6.5% by weight, and more preferably from 1.0% to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0188] (Water)
[0189] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be anhydrous.
[0190] The term “anhydrous” here means that the composition according to the present invention may contain only a small amount of water, preferably no water. Thus, the amount of water may be 2% by weight or less, preferably 1.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains no water.
[0191] (Other Aspects)
[0192] According to the present invention, the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less. It has been discovered that too much amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) can act adversely in terms of boosting the SPF value of the composition according to the present invention. Therefore, in the composition according to the present invention, the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) is limited such that the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) is 0.15 or less, preferably from 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less. By limiting the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s), the composition according to the present invention can have a sufficiently enhanced SPF value. On the other hand, the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 or more, preferably 0.02 or more, and more preferably 0.03 or more.
[0193] Thus, the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01 to 0.15, preferably from 0.02 to 0.14, and more preferably from 0.03 to 0.13.
[0194] (Other Ingredients) The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned components, components typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants or emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners other than the ingredient (d), organic volatile or non-volatile solvents, silicones and silicone derivatives other than the ingredient (a), natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, waxes, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0195] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional additive(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0196] [Preparation]
[0197] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients (a) to (d), as essential ingredients, as well as optional ingredient(s), as explained above.
[0198] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The composition according to the present invention can be uniform.
[0199] The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a transparent or translucent liquid, gel or solid. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a transparent liquid, gel or solid, because the crystallization of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter can be reduced or avoided.
[0200] The transparency may be measured by measuring the transmittance with an absorption spectrometer in the visible region (for example, transparency was measured with a V-550 (JASCO) with a 2 mm width cell as an average of visible light transmittance (between 400 and 800 nm)). The measurement is taken on the undiluted composition. The blank is determined with distilled water.
[0201] The composition of the present invention may preferably have a transparency greater than 50%, preferably greater than 60%, more preferably greater than 70%, even more preferably greater than 80%, and most preferably greater than 90%.
[0202] [Process]
[0203] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a cosmetic process for a keratin substance comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance. The keratin substance here means a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include skin, mucous membranes, lips, nails and the like.
[0204] Since the composition according to the present invention includes (b) solid lipophilic UV filter, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used for protecting a keratin substance from UV rays. For example, the composition according to the present invention may be used as an anti-sun product such as a sunscreen.
[0205] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a UV shielding cosmetic composition, and more preferably a UV shielding skin cosmetic composition.
[0206] [Use]
[0207] According to the present invention, the (d) polyamide polycondensate can function as an SPF booster, i.e., an agent to increase the capability of shielding UV rays.
[0208] Another aspect of the present invention may relate to a use of (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate in a composition, comprising:
[0209] (a) at least one oil;
[0210] (b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter; and
[0211] (c) at least one C1-3monoalcohol, wherein the amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less, in order to improve the UV shielding ability of the composition.
[0212] The improvement in the UV shielding ability of the above composition can be determined by the enhancement of the SPF value of the composition.
[0213] The above composition can exhibit good fluidity as well as good texture.
[0214] The good fluidity here means that the viscosity of the composition is sufficiently low such as less than 10 mPa.s at 25°C under atmospheric pressure.
[0215] The good texture here includes comfortable feeling to touch, such as freshness.
[0216] The above composition can also exhibit good stability. The good stability here means that no crystal of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter is observed over time such as at least one week.
[0217] It is preferable that the above composition can exhibit good fluidity as well as at least one of good stability and good texture, and more preferably all of good fluidity, good stability, and good texture.
[0218] The above explanations regarding the ingredients (a) to (d), as well as the optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can apply to those for the above use according to the present invention.
[0219] EXAMPLES
[0220] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0221] Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1
[0222] The following compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1, shown in Table 1 , were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials. The symbols (a) to (d) in Table 1 correspond to those in the claims.
[0223] Table 1
[0224] [Evaluations]
[0225] (SPF) Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 was shaken 10 times in a capped container to be homogeneous. Each of the homogenous compositions was transferred onto a plate (Helio plate HD 6, PMMA, roughness: 6 pm) with an adjustable pipette in an amount of 0.8 mg / cm2of the plate and then uniformly spread by the fingers. The coated plate was air dried for 15 minutes at room temperature. The obtained sample plate was placed into a Labsphere Ultraviolet Transmittance Analyzer (Model UV-2000 from Solar Light Company, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania). Irradiation of UV rays took place at 12 points on the sample plate. The in vitro SPF value was calculated from the observed absorbance pattern.
[0226] The results are shown in the line of “SPF” in Table 1.
[0227] (Fluidity)
[0228] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 was measured by using a Viscometer CP 10 (Gilson.com) at 25 ± 2°C. The results were categorized in accordance with the following criteria:
[0229] Good: less than 10 mPa.s
[0230] Poor: 10 mPa.s or more
[0231] The results are shown in the line of “Fluidity” in Table 1.
[0232] (Texture)
[0233] Each panelist applied the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 onto the skin to evaluate the texture for each composition, and graded them in accordance with the following criteria.
[0234] Good: Fresh
[0235] Fair: Somewhat fresh
[0236] Poor: Not fresh
[0237] The results are shown in the line of “Texture” in Table 1.
[0238] (Stability)
[0239] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 was filled into a glass bottle and was held under temperature conditions of 4°C for 1 week. An optical microscope image under polarized filter condition of each composition was observed, and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0240] Good: No crystal was observed
[0241] Poor: Crystal was observed.
[0242] The results are shown in the line of “Stability” in Table 1.
[0243] (Summary)
[0244] The compositions according to Examples 1-3, which include ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer, corresponding to the ingredient (d) in Claim 1, can have an enhanced SPF value. It is clear from Examples 1-3 that the higher the above weight ratio is, the higher the SPF value is.
[0245] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which includes no ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer, has a lower SPF value.
[0246] Examples 4-5 and Comparative Examples 2-3
[0247] The following compositions according to Examples 4-5 and Comparative Examples 2-3, shown in Table 2, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 2 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials. The symbols (a) to (d) in Table 2 corresponds to those in the claims.
[0248] Table 2
[0249] [Evaluations]
[0250] (SPF)
[0251] Each of the compositions according to Examples 4-5 and Comparative Examples 2-3 was shaken 10 times in a capped container to be homogeneous. Each of the homogenous compositions was transferred onto a plate (Helio plate HD 6, PMMA, roughness: 6 pm) with an adjustable pipette in an amount of 0.8 mg / cm2of the plate and then uniformly spread by the fingers. The coated plate was air dried for 15 minutes at room temperature. The obtained sample plate was placed into a Labsphere Ultraviolet Transmittance Analyzer (Model UV-2000 from Solar Light Company, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania). Irradiation of UV rays took place at 12 points on the sample plate. The in vitro SPF value was calculated from the observed absorbance pattern.
[0252] The results are shown in the line of “SPF” in Table 2.
[0253] (Fluidity) The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 4-5 and Comparative Examples 2-3 was measured by using a Viscometer CP10 (Gilson.com) at 25 ±2°C. The results were categorized in accordance with the following criteria:
[0254] Good: less than 10 mPa.s
[0255] Poor: 10 mPa.s or more
[0256] The results are shown in the line of “Fluidity” in Table 2.
[0257] (Texture)
[0258] Each panelist applied the compositions according to Examples 4-5 and Comparative Examples 2- 3 onto the skin to evaluate the texture for each composition, and graded them in accordance with the following criteria.
[0259] Good: Fresh
[0260] Fair: Somewhat fresh
[0261] Poor: Not fresh
[0262] The results are shown in the line of “Texture” in Table 2.
[0263] (Stability)
[0264] Each of the compositions according to Examples 4-5 and Comparative Examples 2-3 was filled into a glass bottle and was held under a temperature of 4°C for 1 week. An optical microscope image under polarized filter condition of each composition was observed, and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0265] Good: No crystal was observed
[0266] Poor: Crystal was observed.
[0267] The results are shown in the line of “Stability” in Table 2.
[0268] (Summary)
[0269] The compositions according to Examples 4-5, which include ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer, corresponding to the ingredient (d) in Claim 1, in an amount such that the weight ratio of the amount of ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer / the amount of oils is 0.15 or less, can have a sufficiently enhanced SPF value.
[0270] On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 2-3, which include ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer, corresponding to the ingredient (d) in Claim 1, in an amount such that the weight ratio of the amount of ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer / the amount of oils is more than 0.15, can have a reduced SPF value, as compared to that obtained by the composition according to Example 5.
[0271] The above results mean that the amount of the ingredient (d) in the composition according to the present invention should be limited in order to obtain a sufficiently enhanced SPF value. Examples 6-9 and Comparative Examples 4-5
[0272] The following compositions according to Examples 6-9 and Comparative Examples 4-5, shown in Table 3 , were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 3. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 3 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials. The symbols (a) to (d) in Table 3 corresponds to those in the claims.
[0273] Table 3
[0274] [Evaluations]
[0275] (Fluidity)
[0276] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 6-9 and Comparative Examples 4-5 was measured by using a Viscometer CP 10 (Gilson.com) at 25 +2°C. The results were categorized in accordance with the following criteria:
[0277] Good: less than 10 mPa.s
[0278] Poor: 10 mPa.s or more
[0279] The results are shown in the line of “Fluidity” in Table 3.
[0280] (Stability)
[0281] Each of the compositions according to Examples 6-9 and Comparative Examples 4-5 was filled into a glass bottle and was held under a temperature of 4°C for 1 week. An optical microscope image under polarized filter condition of each composition was observed, and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0282] Good: No crystal was observed
[0283] Poor: Crystal was observed. The results are shown in the line of “Stability” in Table 3.
[0284] (Summary) The compositions according to Examples 6-9, which include ethanol, corresponding to the ingredient (c) in Claim 1 , in an amount of 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, can have good fluidity.
[0285] On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 4-5, which include ethanol, corresponding to the ingredient (c) in Claim 1, in an amount of less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, could not have good fluidity.
[0286] The above results mean that the amount of the ingredient (c) in the composition according to the present invention should be 10% by weight or more in order to obtain good fluidity.
Claims
CLAIMS1. A composition, comprising:(a) at least one oil;(b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter;(c) at least one C1-3monoalcohol; and(d) at least one polyamide polycondensate, wherein the amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
2. The composition according to Claim 1 , wherein the (a) oil is selected from ester oils and liquid lipophilic UV filters.
3. The composition according to Claim 2, wherein the ester oil is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C12- 15 alkyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof.
4. The composition according to Claim 2 or 3, wherein the liquid lipophilic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and mixtures thereof.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition ranges from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, buyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter(s) in the composition ranges from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) C1-3monoalcohol is ethanol.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition ranges from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 30% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (d) polyamide polycondensate is ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) in the composition ranges from 1.5% to 7.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 6.5% by weight, and more preferably from 2.5% to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 , wherein the composition is anhydrous.
13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a UV shielding cosmetic composition, and more preferably a UV shielding skin cosmetic composition.
14. A cosmetic process for a keratin substance, comprising applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 onto the keratin substance.
15. A use of (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate in a composition, comprising:(a) at least one oil;(b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter; and(c) at least one C1-3monoalcohol, wherein the amount of the (c) C1-3monoalcohol(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio of the amount of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) / the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less, in order to improve the UV shielding ability of the composition.
Citation Information
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