Stable hydratable composition
The hydratable composition with a specific precursor-to-vitamin size ratio ensures stable delivery of high vitamin concentrations, addressing phase separation issues and environmental concerns in personal care products.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/086077
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-28
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-12
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-03
AI Technical Summary
Conventional personal care compositions face challenges in delivering high concentrations of unstable water-soluble vitamins like Vitamin C without phase separation, while also reducing plastic use and ensuring easy hydration and satisfactory sensory properties.
A hydratable composition comprising 85-95% of a precursor containing fatty acids, surfactants, and bases, with 5-15% of water-soluble vitamins, where the vitamin particle size is 3:1 to 20:1 times larger than the precursor, allowing for stable hydration and uniform distribution.
The composition maintains vitamin potency and achieves a homogeneous end-use product with excellent sensory characteristics, facilitating easy hydration and reducing plastic waste.
Smart Images

Figure IMGF000018_0001 
Figure IMGF000018_0002
Abstract
Description
[0001] STABLE HYDRATABLE COMPOSITION
[0002] Field of the invention
[0003] The present invention is directed to a hydratable composition and methods of making and using the hydratable composition. The invention also relates to end-use compositions made from the hydratable composition of the invention.
[0004] Background of the Invention
[0005] Personal care compositions, such as lotions, serums, creams, shampoos, and cleansers are common and enjoyed by many consumers. These conventional compositions typically have a substantial amount of water, and they are often sold in plastic bottles, plastic pump containers, jars and tubes. The compositions are conventionally formulated to have a viscosity that is customary for consumer use and easy for evacuation from the packaging they are sold in.
[0006] It is often publicized that the world’s oceans will soon have more plastic than fish. Given environmental concerns and the desire for consumers and conscious companies to do more for the planet, there is a strong desire to use less plastic when selling products, including consumer products. In view of this, efforts have been made to sell product in concentrate form, and therefore, to ship product that comprises less water. The difficulty with hydrated products originating from concentrates include complaints such that product is not homogeneous after adding water and / or of undesirable viscosity. Yet given the desire to use less plastic, there is increasing consumer desire for environmentally friendly products and packaging, and there is increasing interest to develop a composition that is easy to hydrate and has satisfactory sensory properties.
[0007] Moreover, water-soluble vitamins such as Vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) have been used in personal care compositions and have known benefits, including skin benefits. For example, Vitamin C has been used in topical composition for anti-aging and to improve the appearance of wrinkles and age spots. Unfortunately, Vitamin C, for example, is a very unstable substance. Although it is readily soluble in water, rapid oxidation occurs in aqueous media. Solubility of ascorbic acid has been reported to be relatively poor in nonaqueous media, thereby preventing an anhydrous system from achieving any significant level of active concentration. Water-soluble vitamins, especially Vitamin C, can be especially difficult to formulate in high concentrations.
[0008] This invention, therefore, is directed to an easily hydratable composition that can unexpectedly deliver, after hydration, water-soluble vitamins, including high concentrations of the water-soluble vitamins while maintaining potency and other benefits without phase separation. Additionally, such hydratable composition unexpectedly does not aggregate, is convenient to evacuate from packaging and is easy to hydrate for an optional single use application, and is able to deliver skin benefits after being hydrated and topically applied.
[0009] Summary of the Invention
[0010] In a first aspect, a hydratable composition comprises (a) about 85-95% of a precursor, wherein the precursor comprises: a fatty acid; a surfactant; a base; and optionally, about 0.01-5% of an oxide, and (b) about 5-15% of a water-soluble vitamin, wherein a ratio of neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin to neat particle size of the precursor is about 3:1 to about 20:1 , preferably about 3:1 to about 15:1 , and more preferably about 3:1 to about 10:1.
[0011] In a second aspect, is the use of the hydratable composition as described herein for at least one skin care benefit.
[0012] In a third aspect, is the method of using the hydratable composition comprising: dispensing the hydratable composition; adding a solvent, wherein the solvent is water or a water-miscible solvent; agitating the hydratable composition and the solvent together until a uniform end-use composition is produced; and applying the end-use composition to skin, wherein the end-use composition is at least about 50%, or at least about 55%, or at least about 60%, or at least about 65%, or at least about 70%, or at least about 75%, or at least about 80%, or at least about 85%, or at least about 90%, or at least about 95%, preferably about 50% to 95% solvent, more preferably about 70% to 95% solvent, and even more preferably about 80% to 95% solvent. Preferably, the pH of the hydratable composition is less than 6, preferably about 5.9 to about 4.5 following a dilution of 1 part of the hydratable composition and 9 parts of solvent, preferably water.
[0013] In a fourth aspect, is an end-use composition prepared from the hydratable composition.
[0014] All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent from the description and examples which follow.
[0015] Detailed Description of the Invention
[0016] Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and / or use may optionally be understood as modified by the word “about”.
[0017] All amounts are by weight of any of the compositions or components thereof, unless otherwise specified. It should be noted that in specifying any ranges of values, any particular upper value can be associated with any particular lower value.
[0018] For the avoidance of doubt, the term "comprising" is meant not to be limiting to any stated elements but rather to encompass non-specified elements of major or minor functional importance. Therefore, the listed steps, elements or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words "including" or "having" are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to "comprising" as defined above.
[0019] The disclosure, as found herein, is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy.
[0020] Skin, as used herein, includes skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms (including underarms), axilla, buttocks, hands, legs and scalp. Skin benefit agent, as used herein, refers to an improvement in a facial or body characteristic after topical application, for example, even skin tone, moisturization, reduction in wrinkles, or the like.
[0021] Derivative(s), as used herein, refers to functional group substitutions on the compound.
[0022] As used herein, "neat particle size" is the approximate largest-measurable diameter of the particles in powder form and prior to being hydrated, and can be assessed by techniques known to those skilled in the art such as a Leitz optical microscope (e.g., ones of the Laborlux 12 Pol S model name) fitted with cross-polarizers under magnification settings of 5x to 50x, or with a sieve.
[0023] In a first aspect, a hydratable composition comprises (a) about 85-95% of a precursor, wherein the precursor comprises: a fatty acid; a surfactant; a base; and optionally, about 0.01-5% of an oxide, and (b) about 5-15% of a water-soluble vitamin, wherein a ratio of neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin to neat particle size of the precursor is about 3:1 to about 20:1 , preferably about 3:1 to about 15:1 , and more preferably about 3:1 to about 10:1. Preferably, the pH of the hydratable composition is less than 6, preferably about 5.9 to about 4.5 following a dilution of 1 part of the hydratable composition and 9 parts of solvent, preferably water.
[0024] Precursor
[0025] The hydratable composition, as described herein, comprises a precursor comprising: a fatty acid, a surfactant, a base, and optionally, about 0.01-5% of an oxide.
[0026] In an aspect, the precursor comprises a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid or both, preferably a C14 to C18 fatty acid, more preferably a C16 to C18 fatty acid such as stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, or any mixtures or combinations thereof. In one aspect, 50-99%, preferably 70-99%, more preferably 85- 99%, most preferably 95-99% by weight of the fatty acid is C16-C18 fatty acid such as stearic acid, palmitic acid, and / or any combinations thereof. In one aspect, the fatty acid is stearic acid, palmitic acid, or any mixtures or combinations thereof. In one aspect, the fatty acid is stearic acid. Other optional fatty acids may be included in the precursor such as 12-hydroxystearic (12-HSA), 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA), conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), petroselinic acid, or any combination or mixtures thereof. In one aspect, the precursor comprises stearic acid, and at least one optional fatty acid such as 12-hydroxystearic (12-HSA), 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA), conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), petroselinic acid. In one aspect, the precursor comprises a combination of stearic acid and palmitic acid, and at least one optional fatty acid such as 12-hydroxystearic (12-HSA), 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA), conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), and petroselinic acid.
[0027] In one aspect, the total amount of fatty acid(s) in the precursor is about 35% to about 50%, or about 38% to about 50%, or about 40% to about 50%, or about 43% to about 50%, or about 35% to about 48%, or about 38% to about 48% or about 40% to about 48%, or about 43% to about 48% based on the weight of precursor, including any amounts or ranges subsumed therein, preferably wherein the fatty acid(s) is stearic acid, palmitic acid, or a combination thereof, even more preferably stearic acid. In one aspect, the total amount of fatty acid(s) in the precursor is about 35% to about 50%, or about 38% to about 50%, or about 40% to about 50%, or about 43% to about 50%, or about 35% to about 48%, or about 38% to about 48% or about 40% to about 48%, or about 43% to about 48% based on the weight of precursor, including any amounts or ranges subsumed therein, wherein about 1% to about 10%, or about 1% to about 5%, or about 1% to about 3%, or about 3% to about 5%, or about 5% to about 10% of the total fatty acid is an optional fatty acid chosen from 12-hydroxystearic (12-HSA), 10- hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA), conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), petroselinic acid, or any combination thereof, preferably 12-HSA.
[0028] In an aspect, the precursor comprises one or more surfactants. In one aspect, the HLB value of the one or more surfactants is at least 9, preferably about 9 to about 17, more preferably about 9 to about 16, and even more preferably about 9 to about 15.5. The one or more surfactants may be chosen from arachidyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, steareth-21, sucrose stearate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, or any combinations or mixtures thereof. In one aspect, at least 50%, or at least 75%, or at least 90%, or about 100% of the surfactant is cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside or a combination thereof, preferably a combination of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside (e.g., Montanov™ 68). Additionally or alternatively, polyglycerol esters may be suitable surfactants such as polyglyceryl-8 caprylate, polyglycerol-8 caprate, polyglyceryl-8 myristate, polyglyceryl-8 palmitate, polyglyceryl-9 caprylate, polyglycerol- 9 caprate, polyglyceryl-9 laurate, polyglyceryl-9 myristate, and / or polyglyceryl-9 palmitate. In one aspect, the melting point of the surfactant is between about 30°C and 95°C, or about 45°C and 95°C, or about 55°C and 95°C.
[0029] Other suitable surfactants include anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and any combination thereof.
[0030] Suitable anionic surfactants include taurate surfactants such as acylamides of taurine or N-methyltaurine. For example, acyl taurates suitable for use are represented by the general formulae:
[0031] R1C(O)N(R2)(CH2)ySO3M (I), and R1C(O)N(R2)CH2CH2SO3M (II), where R1is Ce to C3o, more particularly, Ce to C24 alkyl, y is 2 or 3, R2is hydrogen or methyl, and M is hydrogen or a solubilizing cation such as, for example, hydrogen, ammonium, alkali metal cation, a lower Ci to C4, alkanol ammonium cation and / or a basic amino acid cation. In one embodiment, R1is Cs to Cis alkyl. In another embodiment at least half of the R1groups are Cs-Cis alkyl. In still another embodiment at least half of the R1groups are C10 to C14 alkyl. R1may be saturated or unsaturated. In yet another embodiment R2is methyl. Illustrative acyl taurates that may be used in the surfactant system of the invention include, for example, taurates commonly known as sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, mixtures thereof or the like. In an embodiment, the taurate used is sodium methyl lauroyl taurate. Other suitable anionic surfactants include sodium laureth sulfate, sodium laureth ether sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium pareth sulfate, sodium pareth ether sulfate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, or sodium cocoyl glutamate.
[0032] Other suitable anionic surfactants include Cs-Cis acyl isethionates. These esters are prepared by a reaction between alkali metal isethionate with mixed aliphatic fatty acids having from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and an iodine value of less than 20. At least 75% of the mixed fatty acids have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and up to 25% have from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0033] The acyl isethionate may be an alkoxylated isethionate such as is described in llardi et al., U.S. Pat. No. 5,393,466, entitled "Fatty Acid Esters of Polyalkoxylated isethonic acid; issued Feb. 28, 1995; hereby incorporated by reference. This compound has the general formula:
[0034] R5C— (0)0— C(X)H— C(Y)H— (OCH2— CH2)m— SO3M wherein R5is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbons, m is an integer from 1 to 4, X and Y are each independently hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbons and M is a solubilizing cation as previously described. Examples of suitable isethionate surfactants include sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, and / or any combination thereof.
[0035] Suitable amphoteric surfactants include but are not limited to sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, potassium lauroamphoacetate, potassium cocoamphoacetate and / or any combination thereof.
[0036] Suitable zwitterionic surfactants include but are not limited to betaines such as lauryl betaine, betaine citrate, cocodimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocoalkyldimethyl betaine, laurylamidopropyl betaine, or any combination thereof. Still other zwitterionic surfactants suitable for use include a cocoamidopropyl sultaine, cocam idopropyl hydroxysultaine, and / or any combination thereof.
[0037] Suitable cationic surfactants include but are not limited to heterocyclic ammonium salts such as cetyl or stearyl pyridinium chloride, alkyl amidoethyl pyrrylinodium methyl sulfate, lapyrium chloride and / or any combination thereof.
[0038] In one aspect, the total amount of surfactant(s) in the precursor is about 30% to about 45%, or about 35% to about 45%, or about 38% to about 45%, based on the weight of precursor, including any amounts or ranges subsumed therein. In one aspect, the surfactant is substantially free of sulfates. As used herein, substantially free of sulfates means less than 5%, or less than 2.5%, or about 0.001 % to about 2.2%, or about 0.001 % to about 1.5%, or about 0.001% to about 1 %, or about 0.001 % to about 0.5%, by weight. In one aspect, the composition has 0% by weight sulfates.
[0039] In another aspect, the hydratable composition and / or end-use composition has less than 25 ppm, or less than 15 ppm, or less than 10 ppm, or less than 5 ppm, or less than 1 ppm, or 0.0 (i.e., no ppm dioxane), such as 1 ,4-dioxane. Traditional buffers or pH modifiers are suitable for inclusion in the precursor for partial neutralization of the fatty acids. These include inorganic bases, e.g., sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide as well as organic bases, e.g., triethanolamine and aminomethyl propanol. In one aspect, the precursor comprises one or more bases. In one aspect, one or more inorganic base, one or more organic base, or a combination or mixture thereof are used. In one aspect, the total amount of bases(s) in the precursor is about 5% to about 15%, or about 7% to about 15%, or about 9% to about 15%, or about 5% to about 12%, or about 7% to about 12%, or about 9% to about 12%, based on the weight of precursor, including any amounts or ranges subsumed therein. In one aspect, the pH of the precursor is about 4 to about 8, or about 5 to about 8, or about 5.5 to about 7.5. pH may be measured by use of a pH meter, such as the Orion Star A111 Benchtop pH meter made commercially available from Thermo Scientific. The pH of the precursor may be determined by combining about 1 part of the precursor with 9 parts of solvent, preferably water.
[0040] In an aspect, the precursor may optionally comprise one or more oxides. The one or more oxides may be chosen from zinc oxide, titanium oxide, iron oxide or any combination or mixtures thereof. In one aspect, the total amount of oxide(s) in the precursor about 0.01 % to about 5%, or about 0.01 % to about 3%, or about 0.01% to about 1 %, or about 0.1 % to about 5%, or about 0.1 % to about 3%, or about 0.1% to about 1 %, or about 1 % to about 5%, or about 2% to about 5%, based on the weight of precursor, including any amounts or ranges subsumed therein.
[0041] In one aspect, the total amount of the precursor in the hydratable composition is about 85% to about 95%, or about 85% to about 92%, or about 85% to about 90%, or about 87% to about 95%, or about 87% to about 92% or about 87% to about 90%, or about 90% to about 95%, or about 90% to about 93%, including any amounts or ranges subsumed therein.
[0042] In one aspect, the neat particle size of the precursor is about 25 microns to about 300 microns, or about 25 microns to about 250 microns, or about 25 microns to about 200 microns, or about 25 microns to about 175 microns, or about 25 microns to about 150 microns, or about 25 microns to about 125 microns, or about 25 microns to about 100 microns, or about 25 microns to about 75 microns, or about 50 microns to about 150 microns, or about 75 microns to about 150 microns, or about 100 microns to about 150 microns, or about 125 microns to about 150 microns, or about 125 microns to about 175 microns.
[0043] Water-soluble vitamin
[0044] The hydratable composition, as described herein, comprises a water-soluble vitamin, such as vitamin B2, vitamin B3 (niacinamide), vitamin Bs (panthenol or pantothenic acid), vitamin Be, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), or any derivatives or combination thereof. In one aspect, the water-soluble vitamin is ascorbic acid or any derivative thereof, including ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside. In one aspect, the total amount of the water-soluble vitamin is about 5% to about 15%, or about 5% to about 12% or about 5% to about 10%, or about 7% to about 15%, or about 7% to about 12%, or about 7% to about 10%, including any amounts or ranges subsumed therein.
[0045] In one aspect, the neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin is about 100 microns to about 600 microns, or about 100 microns to about 500 microns, or about 100 microns to about 400 microns, or about 100 microns to about 300 microns, or about 150 microns to about 450 microns, or about 150 microns to about 300 microns, or about 200 microns to about 300 microns, or about 200 microns to about 275 microns, or about 200 microns to about 250 microns, or about 225 microns to about 300 microns, or about 225 microns to about 275 microns.
[0046] Hydratable composition
[0047] The hydratable composition, as defined herein, comprises the precursor and water- soluble vitamin. The hydratable composition is substantially free of water. As used herein, substantially free of water means less than 5%, or less than 2.5%, or about 0.001% to about 2.2%, or about 0.001% to about 1.5%, or about 0.001% to about 1%, or about 0.001% to about 0.5%, by weight of water. It has been surprisingly found that that a hydratable composition substantially free of water can achieve a significant level of active concentration of a water-soluble vitamin, especially Vitamin C.
[0048] The hydratable composition can be sieved or subjected to any of the conventional methods known to those skilled in the art capable of rendering the hydratable composition into a powder form to facilitate subsequent hydration processes. In one aspect, the hydratable composition is in a powdered form. For the hydratable composition, the ratio of the neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin to the neat particle size of the precursor is about 3:1 to about 20:1 , or about 3:1 to about 15:1 , or about 3: 1 to about 10:1 , or about 3: 1 to about 9: 1 , preferably such that the neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin is larger than the neat particle size of the precursor. In one aspect, the neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin is about 20 to about 3 times greater, or about 15 to about 3 time greater, or about 10 to about 3 times greater than the neat particle size of the precursor.
[0049] In one aspect, a percent difference between the neat particle size of the precursor and the neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin is about 25% to about 200%, or about 25% to about 175%, or about 25% to about 150%, or about 25% to about 100%, or about 25% to about 75%, or about 50% to about 175%, or about 50% to about 150%, or about 50% to about 100%, such that the neat particle size of the precursor is smaller than the neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin. It has been surprisingly found that that it was possible to include a high concentration of water-soluble vitamin while maintaining the potency of the water-soluble vitamin, and still be able to achieve an end-use composition that performs well and has satisfactory sensory properties for the consumer.
[0050] The bulk density of the hydratable composition is typically from 0.2 to 1.2 g / cm3, and preferably, from 0.3 to 0.9 g / cm3, and most preferably, from 0.35 to 0.7 g / cm3where bulk density is measured by art recognized techniques that use, for example, a gas pycnometer made commercially available by Microtrac MRB.
[0051] In one aspect, the pH of the hydratable composition is less than 6, preferably about 5.9 to about 4.5, or about 5.9 to about 4.8, or about 5.9 to about 5. pH may be measured by use of a pH meter, such as the Orion Star A111 Benchtop pH meter made commercially available from Thermo Scientific. The pH of the hydratable composition may be determined by combining about 1 part of the hydratable composition with 9 parts of solvent, preferably water.
[0052] Optional Ingredients
[0053] Optional ingredients that may be included in the hydratable composition include fragrances, emulsifiers, silicones, triglycerides, humectants, chelators (e.g., EDTA or disodium EDTA), sensory modifiers and skin benefit agents. Suitable skin benefit agents include but not be limited to opacifiers, colorants, emollients, occlusive agents, plant extracts, optical agents, skin lightening agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-acne agents, anti-microbial agents, sunscreens, photostabilizers, humectants, wrinkle reducing agents, desquamation promoters, exfoliating agents, mixtures thereof or the like. Each of these optional ingredients may range about 0.001% to 10%, or about 0.001% to 5%, or about 0.001% to 3%, or about 0.001% to 1%, or about 0.001% to 0.5%, or about 0.001 % to 0.1%, or about 0.01% to 5%, or about 0.01 % to 4%, or about 0.01% to 3%, or about 0.01% to 2%, or about 0.01% to 1 %, or about 0.01 % to 0.5%, or about 0.1 % to 5%, or about 0.1 % to 4%, or about 0.01% to 3%, or about 0.1 % to 2%, or about 0.01% to 1%, or about 0.1 % to 0.5%, by weight of the total weight of the hydratable composition.
[0054] Silicones are suitable for optional use and may be categorized into the volatile and nonvolatile variety. The term "volatile", as used herein, refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Optional nonvolatile silicones include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with Kinematic viscosities from about 5 x 10-6 to 0.1 m2 / s at 25°C. Emulsifying and non-emulsifying silicone elastomers are additional optional ingredients.
[0055] Conventional humectants, generally of the polyhydric alcohol-type materials, are suitable for optional use. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol (i.e. , glycerine or glycerin), propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, propylene glycol or a mixture thereof.
[0056] Triglycerides are suitable for optional use including sunflower seed oil, cotton oil, canola oil, grapeseed oil, soybean oil, castor oil, borage oil, olive oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and mixtures thereof. Mono- and di-glycerides may also be used, glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate.
[0057] Emulsifying / thickening agents are suitable for optional use including crosslinked acrylates (e.g., Carbopol® 980), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g. Carbopol® 1382), polyacrylamides (e.g., Sepigel TM 305), acryloyl methyl propane sulfonic acid / salt polymers and copolymers (e.g., Aristoflex® HMB and AVC), cellulosic derivatives and natural gums, starches (e.g., tapioca starch) and mixtures thereof can also be optionally added. Cellulosic derivatives include sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methocellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural gums include guar, xanthan, sclerotium, carrageenan, pectin and combinations of these gums.
[0058] In addition to the water-soluble vitamin(s) described above, additional vitamins and / or derivatives thereof are suitable for use including vitamin A, retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans), retinal, retinol, retinyl esters such as retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, and retinyl propionate, vitamin D, vitamin E, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate and tocopheryl linoleate, vitamin K, folic acid and biotin.
[0059] Minerals and skin nutrients are suitable for optional use including magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, e.g., salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, heptyloxy 4 salicylic acid, and 4-methoxy salicylic acid), resorcinol and substituted resorcinols (particularly, 4-methyl resorcinol, 4-ethyl resorcinol, 4-hexyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol, 4-propyl resorcinol, 4-isopropyl resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol, 4-pentyl resorcinol, 4-phenylethyl resorcinol, 4-cyclopentyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol, 4- heptyl resorcinol, 4-cycloheptyl resorcinol, 4-octyl resorcinol, 4-cyclooctyl resorcinol, 4- nonyl resorcinol, 4-decyl resorcinol, 4-undecyl resorcinol, 4-dodecyl resorcinol, isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol (thiamidol)); resveratrol, saccharide isomerate, ceramides (e.g., Ceramide 1 , Ceramide 3, Ceramide 3B and Ceramide 6) and pseudoceramides, allantoin, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, pyroglutamic acid (PCA) salt derivatives including zinc PCA and sodium PCA, octadecanoic acid, hyaluronic acid and its salt derivatives mixtures thereof and the like.
[0060] Botanical extracts are suitable for optional use including green tea, yarrow, chamomile, licorice, aloe vera, citrus unshui, willow bark, alfalfa, algae, witch hazel, sage, thyme and rosemary, as well as oils such as those derived from sea buckthorn, moringa, argan, avocado, calendula, algal and marula. Soy extracts may be used and especially when it is desirable to include retinol. Another optional additive suitable for use includes hemp oil, cannabigerol, or cannabidiol. Anti-microbial agents are suitable for optional use including but not limited to zinc pyrithione (or ZPT), terpinol, thymol, and piroctone olamine.
[0061] In one aspect, preservatives may be suitable for use including, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, benzyl alcohol, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate (IPBC), phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerine, 1,2-octanediol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, propanediol, alkyl esters of para hydroxybenzoic acid, hydroxyacetophenone, DMDM hydantoin derivatives, climbazole, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. In one aspect, the hydratable composition is substantially free of preservatives. As used herein, substantially free of preservatives means less than about 5%, or less than about 3%, or less than about 2%, or less than about 1%, or less than about 0.5%, or less than about 0.25%, or less than about 0.1%, or 0% of a preservative.
[0062] End-Use Composition
[0063] The hydratable composition is instantly hydratable by being reconstituted by combining the hydratable composition with a solvent to form an end-use composition.
[0064] Reconstitution or reconstituted, as used herein, refers to the process of transforming a solid (e.g., the hydratable composition) into a liquid format by adding a solvent, followed by agitating. The standard used herein for reconstitution time when referring to the phrase “instant hydration” or “instantly hydratable” is at least 2 seconds, or at least 5 seconds, or at least 10 seconds, or about 5 seconds to 3 minutes, or about 10 seconds to 2 minutes. A liquid format, as used herein, is a pumpable, spreadable, and / or flowable, preferably, water continuous composition. As used herein, “agitation” or “agitating” refers to mixing, blending, shearing, shaking, or the like in order to combine the hydratable composition and the solvent into a liquid format.
[0065] In one aspect, the hydratable composition is instantly hydratable in a solvent and is characterized by a rapid build in structure immediately following agitation. End-use composition, as used herein, is a composition for topical application and includes a cream, lotion, balm, serum, gel, deodorant, antiperspirant, nail treatment, and make-up. The end-use composition may be water continuous. Preferably, the end-use composition of this invention is a leave-on composition. The term "leave-on", as described herein, refers to a composition that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and left thereon.
[0066] In one aspect, the solvent is water, a water-miscible solvent or mixture thereof to make the desired end use composition. In one aspect, the solvent is water. Other suitable optional solvents include rosewater (e.g., Rosa Damascena flower water), tea (e.g., Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water), Aloe Barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice, witch hazel (e.g., Hamamelis Virginiana extract), lavender water (e.g., Lavendula Angustifolia flower water), grape water (e.g., Vitis Vinifera fruit water and Vitis Vinifera juice) or mixtures thereof. When the other suitable optional solvents are combined with water and / or water-miscible solvent(s), such other suitable optional solvent are about 1% to about 10%, or about 1% to 5% by weight of the total amount of solvent. In one aspect, the solvent temperature ranges from about 3°C to about 60°C, or about 5°C to about 55°C, or about 7°C to about 50°C.
[0067] Viscosity of the end-use composition of this invention is typically from about 1 ,000 to about 300,000 cps, preferably, about 2,000 to 250,000 cps, and more preferably, from about 5,000 to 200,000 cps, and most preferably, from about 5,000 to 150,000 cps, and even more preferably, from about 5,000 to 100,000 cps or 5,000 cps to 60,000 cps, taken under conditions of 23°C and a shear rate of 1s-1with a strain controlled parallel plate rheometer made commercially available from suppliers like T.A. Instruments under the Discovery name. Alternatively, viscosity can also be measured using a Brookfield Viscometer (speed at 20 rpm, spindle 5, Helipath off, for one (1) minute at 25°C).
[0068] Many types of packaging can be used to store and deliver either the hydratable composition or the end-use composition. For the hydratable composition, bottles made of various materials (e.g., plastic, aluminum, paper, wood, glass), refill cartridges, and lidded jars are preferred. For the end-use composition, the selection of packaging may be dependent upon the end-use and the viscosity of the composition itself. As an example, leave-on lotions and creams for skin typically employ plastic containers with an opening at a dispense end covered by an appropriate closure. Conventional closures include flip-top hinged lids and screw-caps. In general, bottles, tubes, squeeze containers or lidded jars are preferred. Upon reconstitution of the hydratable composition into the end-use composition, any of the aforementioned optional ingredients may be added during manufacturing or by the consumer, depending on factors such as accessibility of ingredients. Each of these optional ingredients may range from 0.05 to 25%, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight of the end-use composition. In one aspect, the end-use composition is substantially free of preservatives.
[0069] In one aspect, is the method of using the hydratable composition comprising: dispensing the hydratable composition; adding a solvent, wherein the solvent is water or a water- miscible solvent; agitating the hydratable composition and the solvent together until a uniform end-use composition is produced; and applying the end-use composition to skin, wherein the end-use composition is at least about 50%, or at least about 55%, or at least about 60%, or at least about 65%, or at least about 70%, or at least about 75%, or at least about 80%, or at least about 85%, or at least about 90%, or at least about 95%, preferably about 50% to 95% solvent, more preferably about 70% to 95% solvent, and even more preferably about 80% to 95% solvent.
[0070] In one aspect, is the method of using the hydratable composition comprising: dispensing the hydratable composition as described herein; adding a solvent, wherein the solvent is water or a water-miscible solvent, wherein the weight ratio of solvent to the hydratable composition is about 95:5, or about 90:10, or about 85: 15, or about 70:30, or about 60:40, or about 50:50, or about 95:5 to about 50:50, or about 95:5 to about 70:30, or about 95:5 to about 85:15; agitating the hydratable composition and the solvent, together until a uniform end-use composition is produced; and applying the end-use composition to skin.
[0071] In one aspect, a method of reconstituting the hydratable composition to result in an enduse cosmetic composition wherein skin benefit agents, fragrance and preservatives may be added to either the hydratable composition or the end-use composition. The method comprises the steps of dispensing a desired amount of the hydratable composition in, for example, the palm of one’s hand, adding a solvent directly to the hydratable composition or applying the hydratable composition onto a wet surface, agitating the precursor and water together (e.g., pressure of palms pressed against each other) with moderate force until transforming into a liquid format. It is possible to reverse the first and second steps above by, for example, first adding solvent to one’s palm and then dispensing a desired amount of the hydratable composition. In one aspect, a method of sustainably transporting the hydratable composition in the absence of the solvent, that can be further processed at another location, such as a consumer’s home or a factory, in an environmentally friendly and potentially plastic-free manner (e.g., using paperboard to package the cosmetic composition precursor). The method comprises the steps of producing the hydratable composition as described herein; packing the hydratable composition in presence of no or substantially free of solvent; transporting the hydratable composition to one’s home or a manufacturing site by any conventional means known to one skilled in the art; hydrating the hydratable composition with a solvent at home or the manufacturing site under appropriate agitation; and adding in optional ingredients, in no particular order, to create the enduse composition. This method allows for a more compact and economical shipping and delivery process wherein the solvent is not involved in the transportation procedure.
[0072] The following Examples are provided to further illustrate an understanding of the invention. The Examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims. One of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that variations of the present invention that differ from the examples given may be practiced without deviating from the teachings of the present invention.
[0073] Examples
[0074] All samples were made by mixing the mentioned ingredients under conditions of moderate sheer, at about 22°C to about 85°C, and at atmospheric pressure. Example 1: Hydratable Composition
[0075] Table A: Precursor composition
[0076] To determine the pH of each precursor, about 1 part of the precursor was added to about 9 parts water.
[0077] Table B: Hydratable Composition: Precursor composition + water-soluble vitamin (i.e. , Vitamin C or Vc)
[0078] Each of the hydratable composition (“HC”s) samples described above include 90 wt% of one of precursors as described in Table A, and 10 wt% of a water-soluble vitamin (i.e., Vitamin C). To determine the pH of each hydratable composition, about 1 part of the hydratable composition was added to about 9 parts water. As shown above, hydratable composition such that the ratio of the neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin to the neat particle size of the precursor is about 3:1 or about 9:1 , the achieved satisfactory rehydration performance even when including, for example, vitamin C. Rehydration performance is measured creating an end-use composition with about 90% water (or about 9 parts water to 1 part hydratable composition), and agitating the end-use composition. A satisfactory rehydration performance (or “pass”) means that there was no separation after at least about 24 hours, preferably at least about 2 days, more preferably at least about 7 days. By contrast, for the rehydration performance to “fail”, this means that there was separation after less than 5 minutes.
[0079] It was surprisingly found that these hydratable compositions with about 10% of Vitamin C, and within the claimed ratio, unexpectedly had satisfactory rehydration performance and the Vitamin C remained stable in the composition. Moreover, trained panelists applying the lotion (i.e. , end use composition) concluded the lotion had excellent skin sensory characteristic consistent with lotion that were purchased ready for use.
Claims
CLAIMS1. A hydratable composition comprising:(a) about 85-95% of a precursor, wherein the precursor comprises: a fatty acid; a surfactant; a base; and optionally, about 0.01-5% of an oxide, and(b) about 5-15% of a water-soluble vitamin, wherein a ratio of neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin to neat particle size of the precursor is about 3: 1 to about 20: 1 , preferably about 3: 1 to about 15:1, and more preferably about 3:1 to about 10:1.
2. The hydratable composition of claim 1, wherein the precursor comprises:(a) about 35-50% of the fatty acid, preferably 50-99%, more preferably 70-99%, even more preferably 85-99%, and most preferably 95-99% by weight of a C16-C 18 fatty acid;(b) about 30-45% of the surfactant;(c) about 5-15% of the base; and(d) optionally, about 0.01-5% of the oxide, wherein the oxide is selected from a zinc oxide, titanium oxide, iron oxide or any combination or mixtures thereof.
3. The hydratable composition of claim 1, wherein the precursor comprises:(a) about 35-50%, or about 35-48% of stearic acid, palmitic acid and / or any combinations thereof, and about 1-10%, or about 5-10% of an optional fatty acid selected from 12-HSA, 10-HSA, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), petroselinic acid or any combination of mixtures thereof;(b) about 30-45% of the surfactant;(c) about 5-15% of the base; and(d) optionally, about 0.01-5% of the oxide, wherein the oxide is selected from a zinc oxide, titanium oxide, iron oxide or any combination or mixtures thereof.
4. The hydratable composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant is arachidyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 20, steareth-21 , sucrose stearate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or combinations or mixturesthereof, preferably cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside and / or a combination thereof.
5. The hydratable composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the base is sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or any combination or mixtures thereof.
6. The hydratable composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the neat particle size of the precursor is about 25 microns to about 300 microns, or about 25 microns to about 250 microns, or about 25 microns to about 200 microns, or about 25 microns to about 175 microns, or about 25 microns to about 150 microns, or about 25 microns to about 125 microns, or about 25 microns to about 100 microns, or about 50 microns to about 150 microns, or about 75 microns to about 150 microns.
7. The hydratable composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the water- soluble vitamin is niacinamide, pantothenic acid, ascorbic acid, and / or any derivatives thereof.
8. The hydratable composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the neat particle size of the water-soluble vitamin is about 100 microns to about 600 microns, or about 100 microns to about 500 microns, or about 100 microns to about 400 microns, or about 100 microns to about 300 microns.
9. The hydratable composition of any of the preceding claims further comprising about 0.001% to about 3%, or about 0.01% to about 2.5%, of at least one additional vitamin or optional ingredient.
10. The hydratable composition of claim 9, wherein the additional vitamin is vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin K, or any precursors, derivatives, combinations and / or mixtures thereof.
11. The hydratable composition of claim 9, wherein the optional ingredient is a resorcinol, preferably a substituted resorcinol, more preferably 4-methyl resorcinol, 4-ethyl resorcinol, 4-hexyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol, 4- propyl resorcinol, 4-isopropyl resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol, 4-pentyl resorcinol, 4-phenylethyl resorcinol, 4-cyclopentyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol, 4-heptyl resorcinol, 4-cycloheptyl resorcinol, 4-octyl resorcinol, 4-cyclooctyl resorcinol, 4-nonyl resorcinol, 4-decyl resorcinol, 4-undecyl resorcinol, 4- dodecyl resorcinol, isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol and / or combinations or mixtures thereof, preferably 4-ethylresorcinol, 4-hexylresorcinol, isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol, and / or any combinations or mixtures thereof.
12. The hydratable composition of claim 9, wherein the optional ingredient is a humectant, preferably glycerol.
13. The hydratable composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition can be hydrated with water or a water-miscible solvent.
14. Use of the hydratable composition of any of the preceding claims for at least one skin care benefit.
15. A method of using the hydratable composition of any of the preceding claims, comprising:(a) dispensing the hydratable composition;(b) adding a solvent, wherein the solvent is water or a water-miscible solvent;(c) agitating the hydratable composition and the solvent together until a uniform end-use composition is produced; and(d) applying the end-use composition to skin, wherein the end-use composition is at least about 50%, or at least about 55%, or at least about 60%, or at least about 65%, or at least about 70%, or at least about 75%, or at least about 80%, or at least about 85%, or at least about 90%, or at least about 95%, preferably about 50% to 95% solvent, more preferably about 70% to 95% solvent, and even more preferably about 80% to 95% solvent, and wherein the pH of the hydratable composition is less than 6, preferably about 5.9 to about 4.5 following a dilution of 1 part of the hydratable composition and 9 parts of the solvent.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Fatty acid esters of polyalkoxylated isethionic acid
US5393466A
Clear two-phase cosmetic composition
EP0729741A1
Two Component Systems For Delivering Stabilized Ascorbic Acid
US20140147525A1
Hydratable cosmetic composition
US20230129607A1
Dual dispenser for aesthetically acceptable delivery of anhydrous skin treatment compositions
WO2003099295A1