Spiraea ulmaria extract and cosmetic uses thereof for combatting unpleasant odours by preserving microbiota diversity

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising a Spiraea Ulmaria extract that comprises molecules such as proanthocyanidols and ellagitannins, including tellimagrandins. The invention relates to particular uses of this active ingredient which preserves the diversity and balance of the skin microbiota, combats unpleasant odours, acts and controls the abundance of Staphylococcus Hominis and / or inhibits the C-S lyase activity of Staphylococcus Hominis in order to reduce the production of malodorous volatile thiol compounds and / or reduces the enzyme activity of the acetolactate synthase of Staphylococcus Epidermidis and / or reduces the generation of acetate and propionate by Cutibacterium Acnes and / or reinforces the barrier function, in order to limit skin sensitivity and sooth sensitive skin.

Description

Spiraea ulmaria extract and its cosmetic uses to combat bad odors while preserving the diversity of the microbiota Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and well-being and concerns the use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, which comprises molecules such as proanthocyanidols and el lagita nins, in particular tellimagrandins. The invention relates to particular uses of this active ingredient with a dual action, namely combating unpleasant odors and strengthening the barrier function, while preserving the diversity and balance of the skin microbiota. State of the art

[0002] On a daily basis, the human body excretes an average of 0.5 liters of sweat per day. Contrary to popular belief, perspiration is not only a normal phenomenon but also a vital one. It helps regulate body temperature. When secreted by the glands, sweat has no odor since the molecules that compose it are odorless. However, the enzymatic degradation of these molecules by bacteria in the skin microbiota leads to the production of malodorous volatile compounds. Several areas of the body are particularly affected by sweat secretion and the resulting unpleasant odors, such as the axillary, scalp, and foot regions. The use of deodorant has long been a daily routine in the axillary region. Once reduced to a basic anti-odor solution, deodorant is now positioned to combine hygiene and skin care.

[0003] Three main strategies are used to protect against unpleasant odors related to perspiration: preventing sweat secretion, eliminating bacteria from the skin microbiota, or masking unpleasant odors. The antiperspirant strategy is not very physiological since it prevents sweat from being released on the skin's surface. The antiseptic strategy uses broad-spectrum antimicrobial agents that do not respect the balance of the skin microbiota, particularly the axillary one. In addition, the antiseptic products used are skin irritants, allergens, and even suspected of being endocrine disruptors. In addition, the perfumes used to mask unpleasant odors Perspiration is an additional source of irritation, especially for underarm skin.

[0004] Daily use of deodorant impacts the skin, which is particularly prone to irritation and therefore has increased skin sensitivity. However, consumers have no alternative solutions to replace deodorant.

[0005] In addition, skin sensitivity induced by the thinness of the underarm skin is also accentuated by perspiration. Indeed, this skin area is attacked by the moisture accumulated in the crook of the arm due to the production of sweat, which promotes irritation of this delicate area, as do shaving, friction, the use of certain hygiene products (chemicals, perfumes, etc.) or heat. These irritations constitute an additional source of discomfort for the underarms and justify the need to develop dedicated care products.

[0006] For some skin areas, such as the scalp, there are no specific products such as deodorants. Consumers affected by the problem of unpleasant odors will tend to increase the frequency of use of hygiene products, which has the effect of unbalancing the microbiota balance of the skin and causing increased skin irritation.

[0007] In this context, there is a need for new cosmetic and well-being solutions that respect the condition of the skin of the axillary areas, scalp or feet, i.e. taking into account their respective thicknesses, their potential to react to aggressions and respect for their microbiotas and acting on the mechanisms of creation of bad odors. These solutions are intended to strengthen the skin barrier in order to relieve sensitive skin while preserving the skin microbiota, particularly that of the armpits, feet or scalp, i.e. by maintaining its diversity and balance.

[0008] Among a multitude of potential candidates, the inventor was particularly interested in meadowsweet to develop a new cosmetic active ingredient. Extracts of meadowsweet are already known to combat unpleasant odors; they act according to a broad-spectrum antimicrobial strategy and therefore destroy the entire microbial population indiscriminately, thus unbalancing the skin microbiota.

[0009] Conversely, the inventor, during his research work, developed a new hygiene and care active ingredient, from meadowsweet, which overcomes the drawbacks of the prior art, in particular the destruction of the microbiota, and thus makes it possible to preserve the diversity of the microbiota. Thus, this active ingredient advantageously makes it possible to combat unpleasant odors and to preserve / conserve the diversity of the microbiota. Preferably, this new active ingredient makes it possible to act on the abundance of S. hominis, to reduce the CS lyase activity of S. hominis, to act on the enzymatic activity of the aceto-lactate synthase of S. epidermidis, to act on the generation of acetate and propionate by C. acnes, and to strengthen the skin barrier in order to soothe sensitive skin while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota. This new active ingredient is, in addition, natural and respectful of the skin physiology of the axilla, palms and scalp. Summary of the invention

[0010] Thus, the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, said extract comprising proanthocyanidols and el lagita nins, in particular tellimagrandins. This active ingredient is thus intended to be used to combat unpleasant odors while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota.

[0011] Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention comprises at least tellimagrandin I and tellimagrandin II, thus constituting all or part of the tellimagrandins of the Spiraea ulmaria extract.

[0012] According to a preferred subject of the invention, the proanthocyanidols are chosen from the molecules of the group consisting of procyanidin B5, procyanidin C2 and its derivatives, dimeric procyanidin B2 3-gallate, tetrameric procyanidin, and their mixture.

[0013] In addition, the extract advantageously includes peptides and carbohydrates.

[0014] The presence of these molecules, unlike the extracts known from the prior art, makes it possible to combat unpleasant skin odors while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota. In particular, the presence of these molecules makes it possible to act, regulate, limit, reduce, control the abundance of S. hominis, as well as to limit, reduce, inhibit its thiol-producing enzymatic activity, while preserving, preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota. The presence of these molecules also makes it possible to act, regulate, limit, reduce, the enzymatic activity of the aceto-lactate synthase of S. epidermidis and / or to act, regulate, limit, reduce the generation of acetate and propionate by C. acnes, while preserving, preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota. Finally, the presence of these molecules also makes it possible to strengthen the skin barrier function by reducing the inflammation of damaged skin in order to relieve skin irritations, especially that of the armpits.

[0015] Preferably, the extract constituting the cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention is a hydroglycolic extract of Spiraea ulmaria (or also called Filipendula ulmaria).

[0016] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the active ingredient according to the invention is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75), b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0017] The presence and enrichment of tellimagrandins in the extract of Spiraea ulmaria thus makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic active ingredient presenting at least one of the following cosmetic efficacies while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota, namely: - fight against bad odors, and / or - control, limit the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis and / or inhibit, reduce, limit the CS lyase activity of S. hominis in order to decrease the production of malodorous volatile thiol compounds, and / or - act, regulate, limit, reduce, the enzymatic activity of the aceto-lactate synthase of S. epidermidis and act, regulate, limit, reduce the generation of acetate and propionate by C. acnes, in order to limit the transformation of molecules present in sweat into malodorous molecules and / or - preserve the barrier function in order to limit skin sensitivity in the axillary area.

[0018] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another aspect, to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, said extract comprising proanthocyanidols and ellagitanins, preferentially tellimagrandins, these having a specific antibacterial activity on Staphylococcus hominis and / or inhibiting, reducing CS lyase activity in order to reduce the production of volatile thiol compounds and / or preserving the barrier function, while respecting the diversity of the skin microbiota.

[0019] According to a preferred object, the active ingredient according to the invention does not affect the growth of Cutibacterium acnes or that of Staphylococcus epidermidis, microorganisms preferentially present in the scalp area, thus preserving the diversity of the microbiota.

[0020] According to a preferred object, the active ingredient according to the invention controls, limits the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis without modifying the diversity of the bacterial communities in the area where it is used.

[0021] According to another object, the invention also aims to strengthen the skin barrier function and reduce the markers of skin inflammation in order to relieve skin irritations of the armpits. The invention thus relates to the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention, for its use in combating skin irritation.

[0022] Finally, according to another subject, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% of an active ingredient according to any of the preceding embodiments, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0023] Other characteristics and advantages will emerge from the detailed description of the invention, the examples and the figures which follow. Brief description of the Figure

[0024] [Fig. 1] represents the chromatographic profile (LC / MS) of the extract according to the invention at 280nm.

[0025] [Fig.2] represents the differences in the intensities of Procyanidin B5 between the extract according to the invention (in solid lines), the product of example 2 (with dashes) and the product of example 3 (in dotted lines).

[0026] [Fig.3] represents the differences in the intensity of Tellimagrandin I between the extract according to the invention (in solid lines), the product of example 2 (with dashes) and the product of example 3 (in dotted lines). Detailed description of the invention

[0027] Definition

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "Spiraea ulmaria extract" means a mixture of at least two molecules obtained from a raw material, namely meadowsweet, i.e. the species Spiraea ulmaria also known as Filipendula ulmaria, regardless of the extraction method of said molecules. It may, for example, be an extract obtained by aqueous and / or hydroalcoholic and / or hydroglycolic extraction. Preferably, the extract is a hydroglycolic extract of Spiraea u I ma ri a.

[0029] For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydroglycolic extract of Spiraea ulmaria" means an extract from the plant species Spiraea ulmaria, also called Filipendula ulmaria or meadowsweet, obtained by a process comprising at least one extraction step in a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol of Spiraea ulmaria, preferably 25% water and 75% butylene glycol.

[0030] By "active ingredient" within the meaning of the invention, we mean an extract comprising at least one molecule, preferably a set of molecules having a cosmetic effect, in particular when applied topically, in particular the cosmetic effect is an anti-odor effect, a soothing, anti-irritant effect, controlling the diversity of the skin microbiota, or fighting against axillary skin dysbiosis.

[0031] For the purposes of the invention, “sensitive skin” means generally thin skin, characterized by an impaired barrier function and a high sensitivity threshold (or a reduced tolerance threshold) resulting in occasional inflammations (erythema).

[0032] By "fighting bad odors" within the meaning of the invention, we mean an action which aims to reduce the generation of malodorous molecules by bacterial species without the destruction of said bacterial species responsible for the production of these malodorous molecules.

[0033] For the purposes of the invention, the term “smelly molecules” means thiols, in particular those produced by S. hominis, propionic acid, in particular produced by C. acnes or S. epidermidis and diacetyl produced by S. epidermidis in particular.

[0034] By "conserving the diversity of the skin microbiota" within the meaning of the invention, we mean an action which aims to control the abundance of S. hominis, by not modifying the viability of the aerobic and anaerobic flora of the skin microbiota.

[0035] Staphylococcus hominis or S. hominis is a commensal skin bacterium whose presence is not linked to any pathology. It is also the best-known example of the bacteria in the skin microbiota, due to its ability to transform one of the odorless molecules contained in sweat into a foul-smelling volatile compound of the thiol family.

[0036] By "Cutibacterium acnes" or "C. acnes", formerly listed under the name "Propionibacterium acnes", we mean a commensal skin bacterium whose presence is not linked to any pathology.

[0037] By "Staphylococcus epidermidis" or "5. epidermidis" we mean a commensal skin bacterium whose presence is not linked to any pathology.

[0038] Cosmetic uses

[0039] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic active ingredient according to any of the embodiments described below, namely its cosmetic use to combat unpleasant odors while preserving the diversity of the microbiota. This active ingredient will thus specifically target the bacteria responsible for odors without destroying them. For this, the cosmetic use of the cosmetic active ingredient controls and reduces the relative abundance of S. hominis and / or reduces, inhibits the CS lyase activity of S. hominis while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota. Thus, the active ingredient does not destroy the entire skin microbiota.

[0040] According to another object, the cosmetic use of the cosmetic active ingredient also reduces the enzymatic activity of aceto-lactate synthase of S. epidermidis as well as the generation of acetate and propionate by C. acnes without modifying the growth of the bacteria Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis.

[0041] According to another object, the invention targets the biological pathways for reinforcing the barrier function, by reducing the expression of markers of skin irritation and by reinforcing the physical and immune barrier function and by limiting the TEWL (transepidermal water loss).

[0042] Thus, the invention makes it possible to meet consumer expectations not addressed by the prior art. To achieve this dual action, the extract constituting the active ingredient according to the invention is enriched with proanthocyanidols and ellagita ni ns, more particularly the extract comprises tellimagrandins, more preferably tellimagrandin I and tellimagrandin II.

[0043] The active ingredient according to the invention also makes it possible to regulate, control, or limit the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis while preserving the diversity and balance of the skin microbiota. Thus, according to a preferred object, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention to control, or limit the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis. For this purpose, the active ingredient according to the invention is not broad-spectrum antibacterial and / or antiseptic and does not destroy the entire bacterial flora. It regulates the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis by maintaining the diversity of the bacterial communities making up the axillary skin microbiota and / or does not modify the growth of Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. Consequently, the active ingredient according to The invention also contributes to the fight against skin odors, unlike the extracts of Spiraea ulmaria known from the prior art which destroy the bacterial flora indiscriminately. Advantageously, the invention therefore aims to fight against odors by preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota and regulating the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis. Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly reduces the relative abundance of S. hominis without modifying the diversity of the aerobic or anaerobic bacterial flora.

[0044] According to another subject, the invention relates to the active ingredient according to the invention for its use in preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota and combating odors. Preferably by limiting the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis, and / or inhibiting the CS lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis and / or reducing the enzymatic activity of aceto-lactate synthase of S. epidermidis and / or the generation of acetate and propionate by C. acnes.

[0045] According to one subject of the invention, the active ingredient according to the invention is related to its use in combating skin irritation, or in reducing skin irritation.

[0046] Active ingredient according to the invention

[0047] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract obtained from Spiraea ulmaria, said extract comprising proanthocyanidols and el lagita ni ns, preferably tellimagrandins.

[0048] In the context of the invention, meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria L. or Filipendula ulmaria) is one of the most recognized plants for its medicinal virtues since it is attributed numerous properties. The flowering tops are particularly renowned for their analgesic, antipyretic and anti-inflammatory actions. However, no extract of Spiraea ulmaria enriched with ellagita nins is known to have specific antibacterial efficacy on Staphylococcus hominis, to inhibit or limit the CS lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis, to strengthen the barrier function and to reduce the markers of skin inflammation while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota of the auxiliary zone.

[0049] Meadowsweet is naturally rich in polyphenols and the inventor has remarkably exploited it in order to obtain an extract enriched in proanthocyanidols as well as in el lagita ni ns of interest, particularly in tellimagrandins.

[0050] The polyphenols composing the extract according to the invention are mainly el lagita nins, proanthocyanidols and gallotannins.

[0051] Thus, the extract advantageously comprises at least one phenolic constituent chosen from the phenolic constituents of the group consisting of casuarinine, rugosine A, rugosine D, rugosine derivatives, rugosine E, tellimagrandine I, tellimagrandine II, trigalloylhexoside derivative, digalloylhexoside, Procyanidin B5, Procyanidin C2, Procyanidin C2 derivative, Procyanidin dimer B2 3-gallate, Procyanidin tetramer, and their mixture.

[0052] Most preferably, the extract comprises at least tellimagrandin I and tellimagrandin II.

[0053] The extract includes proanthocyanidols, these are preferentially from the group consisting of procyanidin B5, procyanidin C2 and its derivatives, dimeric procyanidin B2 3-gallate, tetrameric procyanidin, and their mixture.

[0054] Finally, the inventor continued the analysis of the extract according to the invention and thus found that it advantageously comprises peptides and carbohydrates.

[0055] To improve and optimize the extraction of compounds of interest, namely proanthocyanidols and el lagita nins, especially tellimagrandins, the extract is obtained using a hydroglycolic extraction, by a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75). Thus, the extract of Spiraea ulmaria according to the invention is a hydroglycolic extract.

[0056] Finally, the extract is likely to be obtained by a process comprising at least the following steps: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75), b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0057] Also, a first form of the active ingredient according to the invention is obtained comprising at least the extract of Spiraea ulmaria as described previously.

[0058] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one other ingredient such as a preservative, an antioxidant, a stabilizer, an atomization support, a mineral filler, a polymer, a plasticizer, a surfactant and / or their combination.

[0059] The extract according to the invention present in the cosmetic active ingredient can then be presented in liquid form or in solid form or in film form.

[0060] When it is in liquid form, the active ingredient according to the invention may consist of the extract of Spiraea ulmaria accompanied by a stabilizer and / or preservation system.

[0061] The extract in liquid form is preferably presented in the form of a clear liquid solution, with a characteristic odor and an amber color.

[0062] When it is in liquid form, the dry matter content of the extract can be determined by weighing the residues resulting from drying the extract according to the invention at 105°C in an oven until a constant weight is obtained. Preferably, the extract according to the invention in liquid form has a dry matter content of between 10 and 25 g / L, preferably between 12 and 20 g / L.

[0063] The polyphenol content of the active ingredient according to the invention was characterized by the inventor. This quantification is carried out by colorimetric assay compared to a standard range of gallic acid. The polyphenol content of the active ingredient according to the invention is between 12.5 and 33.5% by weight of dry matter. An analysis of the polyphenols constituting the extract was carried out by liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry and UV detection. The identification of the main species was carried out by comparison of the exact masses of the ions detected in MS and of the fragments obtained in MS / MS with the standards of these molecules.

[0064] The inventor also sought to determine and quantify the content of sugars, ash, proteins and organic acids forming the active ingredient according to the invention.

[0065] Total sugars are determined using the DUBOIS method (Dubois M. et al., Analytical chemistry, 28, 3, 350-356, 1956). The carbohydrate composition and their respective molar masses were determined respectively by ion chromatography and Size Exclusion Chromatography (UPLC-SEC). The carbohydrates of the active ingredient according to the invention are 50% monosaccharides and 50% oligosaccharides and polysaccharides. Furthermore, the molar mass of the carbohydrates is between 180 and 3,780 Da.

[0066] Carbohydrates are preferentially composed of glucose, fructose, sucrose, xylose, and glucuronic acid.

[0067] Protein content is determined by the KJELDHAL method (reference: Official method of analysis of the AOC 1975, 12th ed. W Horwitz, ED, New York, pp. 15-60). The molar mass of the proteins present in the extract according to the invention was also determined by molecular filtration FPLC (Fast Protein Liquid Chromatography). It emerges that the majority of the peptides in the extract according to the invention advantageously have a molar mass of less than 2,000 Da.

[0068] The raw ash content is determined by weighing the residues from incineration at 550°C in an electric muffle furnace. The organic acid content is determined by ion chromatography, and the quantification of polyphenols is carried out by colorimetric assay.

[0069] In the case where it is in solid form, the active ingredient according to the invention could consist of the extract of Spiraea ulmaria as previously described and of a carrier chosen from maltodextrin, gum arabic or soy lecithin. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the extract represents at least 10% by weight of the active ingredient and the carrier at most 90% by weight of the active ingredient.

[0070] In the case of a solid form in which the active ingredient is associated with a carrier, the contents of polyphenols, sugars and proteins in relation to the dry matter in the active ingredient can be modified since the carriers (maltodextrin, gum arabic) are exclusively saccharides.

[0071] The active ingredient according to the invention can also be presented in the form of a film as described in patent FR3079145. In this case, the Spiraea ulmaria extract represents at least 0.1% by weight of the film.

[0072] When presented in film form, the active ingredient includes: - at least the extract of Spiraea ulmaria according to the invention. - at least one mineral filler, and - at least one polymer of natural origin, and - at least one plasticizer, and - at least one surfactant.

[0073] The naturally occurring polymer can be chosen from: pectin, tamarind gum, alginate, pullulan, psyllium, xanthan, guar, tara, carob, agar, gum arabic, gellan, dextran, carrageenan, cellulose, konjac and chitosan.

[0074] The plasticizer can be chosen from: glycerol, sorbitol, sucrose, erythritol, urea, propylene glycol and butylene glycol.

[0075] The mineral filler can be chosen from: calcium carbonate, green clay, kaolin, perlite, talc, magnesium silicate, mica, diatomaceous sericite, silica, calcium sulfate, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, iron oxide and zinc oxide.

[0076] Finally, the active ingredient may also include a pigment to color the film.

[0077] Process for preparing the extract according to the invention

[0078] The extraction process comprises at least one extraction step from Spiraea ulmaria, such as at least one hydroglycolic extraction, preferably at least one hydroglycolic extraction using a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75).

[0079] According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the active ingredient according to the invention is obtained by implementing the following steps: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75), b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0080] Solubilization is carried out with a mixture containing 25% water and 75% butylene glycol chosen to improve the extraction of the polyphenols of interest. The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation. The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out to recover the soluble phase containing the polyphenols of interest.

[0081] One or two successive steps of selective elimination by absorption are carried out on the extract obtained at this stage. This step can be carried out using an ion exchange resin, activated carbon or polyvinyl polypyrrolidone (PVPP).

[0082] The extract obtained at this stage is an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, and constitutes a form of the active ingredient according to the invention, then presented in liquid form.

[0083] The steps of the processes described above, taken individually, are common in the field of active ingredient extractions from natural raw materials and those skilled in the art are able to adjust the reaction parameters on the basis of their general knowledge.

[0084] Cosmetic compositions according to the invention

[0085] The active ingredient according to the invention is intended to be integrated into a cosmetic composition, in particular a composition comprising at least 0.1% by weight of said active ingredient and a physiologically acceptable medium, preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium.

[0086] These compositions may be in particular in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (Water / Oil / Water or Oil / Water / Oil) which may optionally be microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or in the form of solutions, suspensions, hydrodispersions, aqueous gels, powders, or in the form of a film. They may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of creams, emulsions, gels, masks or any other aspects known to those skilled in the art.

[0087] Preferably, these may be compositions comprising between 0.1 and 20% of the active ingredient according to the invention, in particular in liquid form, more preferably between 0.5 and 10%.

[0088] These compositions comprise, in addition to the active ingredient, a physiologically acceptable medium such as a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not cause feelings of discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.

[0089] The compositions according to the invention may also contain as an ingredient at least one compound chosen from: - oils, which may be chosen in particular from silicone oils, linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile, - waxes, such as ozokerite, polyethylene wax, beeswax or carnauba wax, - silicone elastomers, - surfactants, preferably emulsifying surfactants, whether non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, - co-surfactants, such as linear fatty alcohols, - thickeners and / or gelling agents, - humectants, such as polyols like glycerin, - colorants, preservatives, fillers, - tensors, sequestrants, perfumes, and their mixtures, without this list being exhaustive.

[0090] Examples of such ingredients are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) published by the Personal Care Product Council.

[0091] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or non-active, and their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not significantly, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0092] The invention is now illustrated by non-limiting examples of active ingredients and compositions according to the invention and by results. Examples

[0093] Example 1: Active ingredient according to the invention

[0094] The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained from Meadowsweet of the species Spiraea ulmaria. The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained by the following process: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture of water and butylene glycol (25:75), b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective removal of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0095] The active ingredient according to example 1 consists of an extract of Spiraea ulmaria having in particular the following characteristics: - Dry Matter Content = 15.9 g / L - Polyphenol content (by colorimetric assay) = 26% by weight of dry matter - Total Sugar Content (according to the Dubois method) = 52% by weight of dry matter - Protein content (according to the Kjeldhal method) = 6% by weight of dry matter - Mineral ash content = 13% by weight of dry matter - Organic acid content = 3% by weight of dry matter

[0096] Example 2: Active ingredient outside the invention

[0097] The product of Example 2 is obtained from an extract of the species Spiraea ulmaria by the following process: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture of water and butylene glycol (50:50), b. Selective removal of a portion of the polyphenols by adsorption, c. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, d. Filtration of the soluble phase, e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0098] The product of Example 2 consists of an extract of Spiraea ulmaria having in particular the following characteristics: - Dry Matter Content: 19.1 g / L - Polyphenol content: 4.76% by weight of dry matter.

[0099] The chromatographic profile of the product of Example 2 was compared with that of the active ingredient according to the invention. It is clear that the polyphenol composition of the two products is very different. In fact, the product of Example 2 does not contain Procyanidin B5 (see Fig. 2), nor Tellimagrandin I (see Fig. 3).

[0100] Example 3: Active ingredient outside the invention

[0101] The product of Example 3 is obtained from an extract of the species Spiraea ulmaria by the following process: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture of water and butylene glycol (10:90), b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

[0102] The chromatographic profile of the product of Example 3 was also compared with that of the active ingredient according to the invention. It is clear that the polyphenol composition of the two products is, again, very different. Indeed, the product of Example 3 includes in particular less Procyanidin B5 (see fig. 2), as well as Tellimagrandin I (see fig. 3).

[0103] Test IA - Evaluation of the efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis

[0104] The objective of this study is to evaluate the direct and specific antibacterial action on strains of Staphylococcus hominis and more particularly the growth inhibition capacity of these strains. This study made it possible to compare the active ingredient according to the invention and the product of Example 2.

[0105] The direct antibacterial action of the active ingredient according to the invention and of the product of Example 2 at 1% was evaluated by spectrophotometry by monitoring the bacterial growth of 5 isolates of Staphylococcus hominis taken from malodorous panelists and a reference strain of S. hominis (DSM 20328).

[0106] The protocol is as follows. The strains were cultivated in liquid medium and aerobically at 37°C. The strains were inoculated in the presence or absence of the active ingredient according to the invention or of the product of Example 2 at 1% and incubated with shaking for 20 hours in a spectrophotometer. Bacterial growth is monitored by continuous measurement of the optical density at 600nm.

[0107] The growth of S. hominis under the different conditions is compared according to the maximum ODs reached. The growth results (OD max) of the 6 strains of S. hominis in the presence and absence of the active ingredient according to the invention or the product of Example 2 at 1% are presented in Table 1 below.

[0108] [Table 1] 0109] The active ingredient according to the invention at 1% has a direct antibacterial action on S. hominis and controls its abundance by significantly reducing their growth by more than 60%, unlike the product of example 2 which only has a maximum growth inhibition of 10%.

[0110] This result proves that the active ingredient according to the invention has a specific antibacterial action on Staphylococcus hominis.

[0111] Test IB - Study of the capacity of the extract according to the invention to inhibit the CS lyase of Staphylococcus hominis

[0112] The inventor compared the ability of the extract according to the invention and the product of Example 3 to inhibit, reduce the CS lyase of Staphylococcus hominis. This bacterial enzyme is decisive in the conversion of non-volatile precursors into volatile odorous molecules of the thiol type. For this, the enzymatic activity of the CS lyase of S. hominis was specifically measured by fluorescence from native protein extracts from isolates of S. hominis.

[0113] The protocol is as follows. S. hominis isolates are cultured on nutrient agar plates to form bacterial lawns, after incubation at 37°C. Then, the bacterial lawns are harvested and washed with PBS. Then, the collected cells are vigorously crushed. After centrifugation, the native protein extracts are recovered and sterile filtered.

[0114] Protein assay is performed as follows. The protein content of S. hominis protein extracts is determined by bicinchonic acid assay using a kit. This assay involves a bicinchonic acid solution and a copper sulfate solution. The proteins reduce Cu 2+ ions to Cu+, which forms a colored complex with bicinchonic acid. The resulting color is read at 562 nm and compared to a curve established with a standard.

[0115] The CS lyase activity assay is performed as follows. The CS-Lyase activity of S. hominis protein extracts is determined using a spectrophotometer, using benzylcysteine ​​as a substrate. Thiols released by benzylcysteine ​​during 30 minutes under the action of CS-Lyase complex with monobromobimane inducing an increase in fluorescence at 460 nm after excitation at 405 nm. The specific activity of CS-Lyase is calculated by dividing this increase in fluorescence (AF) by the amount of protein in mg of the protein extract, it is expressed: AF s-1 mg-1.

[0116] The effects of the active ingredient according to the invention and of the product of example 3 are determined by comparing the specific activity of the bacterial extract obtained in the presence of the active ingredient according to the invention or of the product of example 3, with that obtained without the active ingredient (control).

[0117] The results are presented in Table 2, below.

[0118] [Table 2] 0119] The active ingredient according to the invention reduces the activity of Staphylococcus hominis CS lyase by 53% while the product according to Example 3 reduces it by only 16%. Thus confirming the effectiveness of the active ingredient according to the invention on S. hominis to reduce the enzymatic activity of CS lyase.

[0120] Furthermore, a metabolomic analysis was carried out on the active ingredient according to the invention as well as on the product according to example 3. It then highlighted that the el lagita nins and the proanthocyanidols have a higher concentration in the active ingredient according to the invention than in the product according to example 3. In particular, the molecules identified in the extract according to the invention and absent in the product according to example 3 are the following: Tellimagrandin I, Tellimagrandin II, Procyanidin B5, Procyanidin C2, Procyanidin C2 derivative, Procyanidin dimer B2 3-gallate, and Procyanidin tetramer.

[0121] Thus, metabolomic analysis demonstrates that it is the proanthocyanidols and the tellimagrandin-type el lagita nins which are responsible for the effectiveness of the extract according to the invention in reducing the CS lyase of S. hominis.

[0122] IC Test - Study of the capacity of the active ingredient according to the invention to reduce the formation of diacetyl by Staphylococcus epidermidis

[0123] The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of the active ingredient according to the invention to reduce the production of odorous molecules (diacetyl) responsible for bad scalp odors generated by Staphylococcus epidermidis, present in the scalp microbiota.

[0124] Among the odorous molecules of the scalp, several studies mention diacetyl, a fermentation by-product of sweat lactate by Staphylococcus epidermidis, one of the major bacteria present on the skin and scalp. Lactate is metabolized into pyruvate by the membrane-bound lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) of the bacterium and pyruvate is transformed into aceto-lactate by a key enzyme: aceto-lactate synthase (ALS). Aceto-lactate is then converted into diacetyl by redox reactions involving the consumption of NADH as a co-factor. It has been shown that by inhibiting aceto-lactate synthase (ALS) with 5-methyl furfural (5-MF), S. epidermidis produced less diacetyl. This enzyme is therefore a preferred target for reducing diacetyl production by S. epidermidis.

[0125] The protocol is as follows. S. epidermidis is cultured on nutrient agar plates to form bacterial lawns, after incubation at 37°C. The bacterial lawns are harvested and washed with culture medium. The collected cells are sized and then placed in contact with glass beads to be ground. After centrifugation, the native protein extracts are recovered, sterile filtered and stored at -80°C.

[0126] The amount of diacetyl produced by S. epidermidis from lactate is assessed by measuring the enzymatic activity of ALS, the enzyme responsible for converting pyruvate to aceto-lactate. The rate of the reaction is determined by measuring by spectrophotometry (OD340nm) the decrease in NADH during the conversion of pyruvate to diacetyl.

[0127] The protein extracts of S. epidermidis are incubated with pyruvate as substrate, placed in the presence or absence of the active ingredient according to the invention at concentrations of 0.10%, 0.25%, 0.50%, 0.75% or 1.00% (V / V).

[0128] The enzymatic activity of ALS is calculated after 15 minutes of reaction, by measuring the decrease in OD340nm (ADO) relative to the amount of protein (mg) in the protein extract. It is expressed in ADO min-1 mg-1.

[0129] The effect of the active ingredient according to the invention is determined by comparing the enzymatic activity of the bacterial extract obtained in the presence of the active ingredient with that obtained without the active ingredient.

[0130] The results are presented in Table 3, below.

[0131] [Table 3] 0132] Under the conditions of this study, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly and dose-dependently reduces the enzymatic activity of aceto-lactate synthase of S. epidermidis. Tested at 1.00%, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly reduces the activity of this enzyme by 52%.

[0133] The active ingredient according to the invention thus regulates the generating activity of diacetyl, one of the odorous molecules responsible for bad odors associated with the scalp, caused by S. epidermidis.

[0134] Test 1D - Study of the capacity of the active ingredient according to the invention to reduce the biotransformation of lactate into acetate and propionate by Cutibacterium acnes

[0135] The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of the active ingredient according to the invention to reduce the production of odorous molecules responsible for bad odors of the scalp and which are generated by the microbiota, in particular Cutibacterium acnes, from sweat.

[0136] Among the odorous molecules in the scalp are propionic acid and acetic acid, two volatile fatty acids.

[0137] These greasy odors come from the biotransformation of non-odorous glycerol and lactate present in sweat, by the bacterial genus Cutibacterium (formerly Propionibacterium) and in particular C. acnes, one of the predominant bacteria on the scalp.

[0138] The biotransformation of lactate by C. acnes under anaerobic conditions is stoichiometric and produces 2 molecules of propionate for 1 molecule of acetate.

[0139] Acetate and propionate production were measured by spectrophotometry and gas chromatography, respectively, from bacterial suspensions of C. acnes incubated with lactate.

[0140] The protocol is as follows. The Cutibacterium acnes strain is inoculated onto nutrient agar plates and incubated anaerobically at 37°C. Then, the C. acnes cultures are recovered, inoculated into liquid medium, and incubated anaerobically at 37°C.

[0141] The C. acnes suspensions are centrifuged. The bacterial pellets are resuspended in a medium containing sodium L-lactate. The bacterial suspensions are incubated anaerobically at 37°C, in the presence or absence of the active ingredient according to the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.25 to 2.5% (V / V).

[0142] Finally, the growth of bacterial suspensions is assessed by measuring the optical density at the wavelength of 600 nm (OD600 nm). They are then centrifuged. Volatile fatty acid assays are carried out in the supernatants.

[0143] Acetate is measured according to the recommendations of the K-ACETRM kit supplier (Libios). Acetate concentration is measured spectrophotometrically at 340 nm.

[0144] Propionate is measured by gas chromatography. Samples are injected liquid-in-water onto a GC-FID (Gas Chromatography-Flame Ionization Detector) system. Propionate is quantified using a calibration curve of the corresponding standard.

[0145] The results are presented in Tables 4 and 5, respectively, below.

[0146] [Table 4] 0147] [Table 5] 0148] Under the conditions of this study, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly and dose-dependently reduces the generation of acetate and propionate by Cutibacterium acnes.

[0149] Tested at 2%, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly reduces the production of acetate by 45% and propionate by 51%.

[0150] The active ingredient according to the invention thus regulates one of the pathways that generate bad odors on the scalp.

[0151] Test 1E - Study of the effectiveness of the active ingredient according to the invention on the skin microbiota

[0152] The objective of this double study is to quantitatively evaluate the impact of the active ingredient according to the invention on the bacterial viability of the axillary microbiota and on the bacterial growth of two main microorganisms present on the scalp.

[0153] In the first study, the impact of the placebo formula and the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 1% was evaluated by quantitatively comparing the microbial load of each axillary microbiota sample on both the aerobic flora and the anaerobic flora.

[0154] The protocol is as follows. A skin microbiota sample was taken from the armpits of 10 panelists in order to obtain representative samples of the axillary flora.

[0155] The 10 axillary microbiota samples were inoculated onto agar plates pretreated with water, the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention at 1% or the placebo formula. These cultures were carried out on non-selective agar plates under both aerobic and anaerobic conditions in order to study the total flora of the axillary microbiota. At the end of the culture times, the bacterial colonies were counted in order to enumerate the total flora of the axillary microbiota for each of the samples and in each of the conditions. The results are given in colony-forming units and expressed as log10 CFU / mL.

[0156] The results are presented in Table 6, below.

[0157] [Table 6] 0158] The active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 1% does not significantly affect the viability of the aerobic and anaerobic flora of the axillary microbiota, confirming the specificity of action of the active ingredient according to the invention on S. hominis.

[0159] In the second study, the inventor measured the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the growth of C. acnes and S. epidermidis, two main microorganisms present on the scalp.

[0160] The active ingredient according to the invention was added to the respective culture media of C. acnes and S. epidermidis at increasing doses ranging from 0.25% to 2.5%. Bacterial growth was evaluated by measuring the Optical Density at 600nm.

[0161] The results are presented in Tables 7 and 8 below respectively.

[0162] [Table 7] 0163] Under the test conditions, the active ingredient according to the invention does not affect the growth of C. acnes.

[0164] [Table 8] 0165] Under the test conditions, the active ingredient according to the invention does not significantly affect the growth of S. epidermidis.

[0166] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention regulates at least two pathways generating bad odors at the scalp level without affecting the growth of the two bacteria involved in these mechanisms at the scalp level.

[0167] The active ingredient according to the invention preserves the diversity and balance of the skin microbiota.

[0168] Test 2A - In vitro evaluation of the efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on the barrier function

[0169] The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of the extract according to the invention to strengthen the barrier function. An intact skin barrier results from the particular structure of the stratum corneum obtained thanks to the processes of proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes and the cohesion of the upper layers of the epidermis ensured by tight junctions.

[0170] The integrity of the epidermal barrier function was therefore analyzed by measuring transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) and by quantifying, by immunohistofluorescence, the synthesis of loricrin, an epidermal differentiation protein, and claudin-1, the main constituent of tight junctions. This study was carried out on reconstructed epidermis attacked by a solution of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS).

[0171] The protocol is as follows. Keratinocytes are seeded onto inserts and then incubated at 37°C. For several days, the culture medium is changed regularly. After 15 days, the reconstructed epidermis are treated with an SLS solution, then incubated in the presence of the extract according to the invention at 0.10% or 0.25% (V / V). The supernatants are collected and assayed by ELISA method.

[0172] After incubation with the extract according to the invention, transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) is measured. Then, the reconstructed epidermis are fixed, dehydrated and embedded in paraffin, then sections are made using a microtome. The synthesis of loricrin and claudin-1 is measured by immunohistofluorescence.

[0173] The results on transepithelial electrical resistance, loricrin synthesis, and claudin-1 synthesis are presented in Tables 9, 10, and 11, respectively, below.

[0174] [Table 9] impaired barrier function, characterized by low transepithelial electrical resistance. Tested at 0.25% on damaged reconstructed epidermis, the extract according to the invention significantly increases transepithelial electrical resistance by 28%.

[0176] [Table 10]

[0177] [Table 11]

[0178] Reconstructed epidermis attacked with an SLS solution exhibit an altered barrier function, characterized by a significant decrease in the synthesis of loricrin and claudin-1. Tested at 0.25% on attacked reconstructed epidermis, the extract according to the invention restores the synthesis of loricrin by 66% and claudin-1 by 47%.

[0179] The extract according to the invention thus improves the skin barrier function of damaged epidermis and helps to relieve skin irritations in the armpits.

[0180] Test 2B - In vitro evaluation of the effectiveness of the active ingredient according to the invention on the barrier function following skin aggression

[0181] The objective of this study is to evaluate the effect of the extract according to the invention on the attacked barrier function, by monitoring the inflammatory markers: - interleukin-1a (IL-1a), and - interleukin-8 (IL-8).

[0182] A first study was carried out on reconstructed epidermis attacked by a solution of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). The synthesis of inflammatory cytokines IL-1a was measured by ELISA in the culture supernatants.

[0183] The protocol is as follows. Keratinocytes are seeded onto inserts and then incubated at 37°C. For several days, the culture medium is changed regularly. After 15 days, the reconstructed epidermis are treated with an SLS solution, then incubated in the presence of the extract according to the invention at 0.10% or 0.25% (V / V). The supernatants are collected and assayed by ELISA method.

[0184] The results on IL-1a synthesis are presented in Table 12, below.

[0185] [Table 12]

[0186] Chemical aggression using an SLS solution on reconstructed epidermis induces a significant increase in the secretion of inflammatory cytokines IL-1a, reflecting the aggression of the barrier function. Tested at 0.25% on reconstructed epidermis attacked with an SLS solution, the extract according to the invention significantly limits the synthesis of interleukin-1a by 32%.

[0187] A second study was carried out on keratinocytes attacked by a solution of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). The synthesis of inflammatory cytokines IL-8 was measured by ELISA in the culture supernatants.

[0188] The protocol is as follows. The keratinocytes are incubated at 37°C. Then, they are treated with an SLS solution, before being incubated in the presence of the extract according to the invention or the product of Example 2 at 0.10% or 0.25% (V / V). The supernatants are recovered and assayed by ELISA method.

[0189] The results on IL-8 synthesis are presented in Table 13, below.

[0190] [Table 13]

[0191] Chemical aggression using SLS solution on keratinocytes, induced a significant increase in the secretion of inflammatory cytokines I L-8, reflecting the aggression of the barrier function. Tested at 0.25% on keratinocytes attacked with an SLS solution, the extract according to the invention significantly limits the synthesis of interleukin-8 by 97% while the product of example 2 only limits the synthesis to 60%.

[0192] Thus, the extract according to the invention has a soothing role on attacked keratinocytes and on attacked epidermis and helps to relieve skin irritations of the armpits.

[0193] Test 2C - In vitro evaluation of the efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on the immune barrier function

[0194] The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacities of the active ingredient according to the invention to boost the expression of |3-defensins 2 and 3 (HBD2 and HBD3), Toll like Receptor 2 (TLR2), ribonuclease 7 (RNase 7), and cathelicidins (CAMP) thus making it possible to strengthen the epidermal immune barrier function.

[0195] One of the main functions of the skin is to form an effective barrier against the pathogenic microbes it continually encounters. Keratinocytes are the first sentinels of this immune barrier. They possess receptors, including TLR2, that allow them to detect and distinguish between resident microorganisms of the commensal flora and transient pathogenic microorganisms. To neutralize and eliminate them, keratinocytes synthesize antimicrobial peptides such as HBD2, HBD3, CAMP, and RNase 7. These peptides are widely expressed by keratinocytes and are characterized by a broad-spectrum antimicrobial action.

[0196] The expression of the different markers studied was evaluated by quantitative PCR on human keratinocytes.

[0197] The protocol is as follows. Keratinocytes are seeded and incubated at 37°C. Then they are treated with the active ingredient according to the invention at 0.1% and 0.25% (V / V) or with the product according to example 2 before being incubated at 37°C. Then, the cells are recovered and the total RNA extracted. The RNAs were reverse-transcribed and the complementary DNAs obtained were analyzed by the quantitative PCR technique. The expression of the mRNAs of the antimicrobial peptides (HBD2, HDB3, TLR2, RNase7, CAMP) was studied in parallel with reference mRNAs for normalization.

[0198] Fluorescence (SYBR Green) is measured continuously using a thermal cycler.

[0199] The results obtained are presented in Tables 14 and 15 below.

[0200] [Table 14] 0201] [Table 15] 0202] Unlike the product of Example 2, the active ingredient of the invention boosts the expression of p-defensins 2 and 3 (HBD2 and HBD3), Toll like Receptor 2 (TLR2), ribonuclease 7 (RNase 7), and cathelicidins (CAMP).

[0203] The active ingredient according to the invention thus makes it possible to strengthen the immune barrier function of the epidermis.

[0204] Test 3 - In vivo evaluation of the efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on skin sensitivity

[0205] The objective of this study was: - to study the impact of the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% on the barrier function of volunteers. - to evaluate in vivo the capacity of the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% to reduce the manifestations of axillary sensitivity in Caucasian volunteers declaring having sensitive armpits

[0206] This study was conducted on 18 female, Caucasian subjects, aged 19 to 62 years (mean age 43 years). The study of the barrier function was carried out by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using a Téwamètre® before and after 7 and 28 days of daily application of the cosmetic formula containing the extract according to the invention at 1%.

[0207] The results corresponding to the effect of the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% in gel on the quality of the skin barrier measured at the armpits are presented in tables 16 and 17, below.

[0208] [Table 16] 0209] From 7 days of daily application, the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% in gel significantly improves the quality of the skin barrier of Caucasian volunteers in the armpits by reducing water loss by 24.0%. This reduction was observed in 87% of the volunteers.

[0210] [Table 17] 0211] This effect intensifies after 28 days of treatment with a decrease in water loss of 35.7%. These effects are observed in all subjects.

[0212] The results corresponding to the effect of the extract according to the invention in reducing the manifestations of axillary sensitivity are presented in Table 18 and Table 19 below.

[0213] [Table 18]

[0214] [Table 19] 0215] During 28 days of daily application and in comparison with a period of 28 days without application, the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% in gel significantly reduces the frequency of appearance of unpleasant sensations in the armpits: daily by 48.2% (effect observed in 89% of subjects) and after shaving or hair removal by 62.9% (for 80% of volunteers). Thus, the extract according to the invention limits the manifestations of axillary sensitivity.

[0216] The inventor thus noted that the use of the extract according to the invention makes it possible to limit insensible water losses in subjects with increased sensitivity in the armpits: on average, the TEWL of sensitive subjects after use of the extract for 28 days decreases to 10.4 g / h / m 2 thus approaching the TEWL of subjects not presenting sensitive skin problems in this area which is on average 7.6 g / h / m 2 The extract according to the invention strengthens the skin barrier.

[0217] Therefore, during 28 days of daily use by Caucasian volunteers with sensitivity in the armpits, and in comparison with a period without treatment, the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% in gel reduces the frequency of appearance of unpleasant sensations perceived on a daily basis or after hair removal or shaving.

[0218] Test 4 - In vivo evaluation of the short-term efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on Staphylococcus hominis

[0219] The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of the extract according to the invention, formulated at 1% in gel form, to act against perspiration odors by controlling the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis, without destroying the axillary cutaneous microbial flora, after a single application (immediate effect) in the context of practicing a sporting activity.

[0220] This study was conducted on 12 subjects (7 women and 5 men), Caucasian, aged 30 to 69 years (mean age 52 years) and presenting a light to very strong sweat odor after a sports session.

[0221] The immediate effect of the extract according to the invention was evaluated after a single application on the morning of the sporting activity.

[0222] Several parameters were analyzed: - the odors retained on the T-shirts worn by the subjects were evaluated by a panel of experts qualified in sensory measurement of odors - volatile thiol compounds collected from the T-shirts worn by the subjects were analyzed by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-MSMS) - the relative abundance of Staphylococcus hominis and Corynebacterium avidum was studied on microbiota samples from the subjects - the diversity of bacterial communities in the axillary zone was monitored.

[0223] The results on the abundance of the species S. hominis are presented in Table 20, below.

[0224] [Table 20]

[0225] The relative abundance of the bacterial species S. hominis, involved in the generation of malodorous compounds, is significantly reduced after a single application of the extract according to the invention. This result demonstrates an immediate action on one of the main bacterial species responsible for bad odors.

[0226] The inventor also found that the extract according to the invention allowed a reduction in the generation of odorous volatile thiol compounds. These results are presented in Table 21.

[0227] [Table 21]

[0228] In the context of a single application of the gel, in the morning before the sports session, the extract according to the invention formulated at 1% in gel significantly reduces the quantity of smelly volatile thiol compounds.

[0229] The results on the abundance of the species C. avidum as well as on the diversity of the bacterial flora (Shannon Index) are presented in Table 22 below.

[0230] [Table 22]

[0231] Unlike the relative abundance of the bacterial species S. hominis, the relative abundance of C. avidum is not modified by the application of the active ingredient according to the invention. This result is confirmed by the Shannon index representing the diversity of the bacterial flora which is also unchanged.

[0232] The use of the extract according to the invention in a single application acts both on the abundance of S. hominis and on its thiol-producing enzymatic activity, while preserving the diversity of bacterial communities in the axillary area, thus preserving the balance of this area and helping to preserve the skin microbiota.

[0233] Test 5 - In vivo evaluation of the long-term efficacy of the active ingredient according to the invention on S. hominis

[0234] The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of the extract according to the invention, formulated at 1% in gel form, to act against perspiration odors following prolonged use (long-term effect) in the context of practicing a sporting activity. The study is conducted in a similar manner to that described in the previous trial.

[0235] In this trial, volunteers applied the gel repeatedly for 7 days. The long-term effect of the extract according to the invention was evaluated 24 hours after the last application of the gel.

[0236] The inventor found that the extract according to the invention also tends to reduce the generation of odorous volatile thiol compounds in the “long term”. These results are presented in Table 23, below.

[0237] [Table 23] applied the gel containing the extract according to the invention on the morning of the sporting activity, the extract according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the quantity of volatile thiol compounds generated by 42.4%.

[0239] The results on the diversity of bacterial flora are presented in Table 24 below.

[0240] [Table 24]

[0241] These results demonstrate that the use of the extract according to the invention in repeated application does not modify the diversity of the bacterial communities of the axillary zone, thus preserving the balance of the microbiota of this zone.

[0242] The use of the extract according to the invention in repeated application acts on the enzymatic activity producing thiols, while preserving the diversity of the bacterial communities of the axillary zone.

[0243] Finally, examples of composition according to the invention are described below.

[0244] Example of composition according to the invention 4

[0245] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a deodorant spray or a hair lotion is presented in Table 25 below.

[0246] [Table 25] 0247] The composition of Example 4 can be obtained in particular by the following process: a. Homogenize A with gentle stirring. b. Adjust the pH with B to 4.8 - 5.2. c. Homogenize C with gentle stirring. d. Add C with moderate stirring and maintain stirring until homogeneous.

[0248] The composition then comes in the form of a deodorant solution or a translucent, pale yellow hair lotion.

[0249] Example of composition according to the invention 5

[0250] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a deodorant gel is presented in Table 26 below.

[0251] [Table 26]

[0252] The composition of Example 5 can be obtained in particular by the following process: a. Add B to A with gentle stirring and continue stirring until homogeneous. b. Add C and stir until a very smooth gel is obtained. c. Add D and E successively with gentle stirring.

[0253] The composition then appears in the form of a slightly translucent, pale yellow soft gel.

[0254] Example of composition according to the invention 6

[0255] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a roll-on deodorant is presented in Table 27 below.

[0256] [Table 27] 0257] The composition of Example 6 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Add A2 then A3 to Al with stirring and heat to 80°C. b. Heat B to 80°C with stirring. c. Emulsify B in A with shear stirring for 10 minutes. d. Add C with sustained stirring. e. At room temperature, with gentle stirring, add D, E and F.

[0258] The composition then appears in the form of a very fluid beige-colored emulsion.

[0259] Example of composition according to the invention 7

[0260] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a deodorant stick is presented in Table 28 below.

[0261] [Table 28] 0262] The composition of Example 7 can be obtained in particular by the following process: a. Heat A to 80°C with gentle stirring. b. Sprinkle B with gentle stirring. Stir until homogeneous. c. At 65°C, add C, previously homogenized, and stir until homogeneous. d. Pour immediately into sticks.

[0263] The composition then comes in the form of a smooth, shiny stick of light beige color.

[0264] Example of composition according to the invention 8

[0265] An example of a formulation comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a shampoo is presented in Table 29 below.

[0266] [Table 29]

[0267] The composition of Example 8 can be obtained in particular by the following process: a. Mix A until dissolved. b. Add the constituents of B one by one and stir until homogeneous. c. Homogenize C and transfer to AB while stirring. d. Adjust the pH to 5 with D. e. Add and E and stir until dissolved. f. Add F and stir until homogeneous.

[0268] The composition then appears in the form of a light yellow transparent gel.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of Spiraea ulmaria, said extract comprising proanthocyanidols and el lagita nins, for combating unpleasant skin odors while preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota.

2. Cosmetic use according to the preceding claim for preserving the diversity of the skin microbiota and limiting the abundance of Staphylococcus hominis and / or inhibiting the CS lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis.

3. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, for reducing the enzymatic activity of the aceto-lactate synthase of Staphylococcus epidermidis without affecting the growth of S. epidermidis.

4. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, for reducing the generation of acetate and propionate by Cutibacterium acnes from lactate without affecting the growth of C. acnes.

5. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims for strengthening the barrier function.

6. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ellagita nins comprise tellimagrandins.

7. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract comprises at least tellimagrandin I and tellimagrandin II.

8. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proanthocyanidols are chosen from the molecules of the group consisting of procyanidin B5, procyanidin C2 and its derivatives, dimeric procyanidin B2 3-gallate, tetrameric procyanidin, and their mixture.

9. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is a hydroglycolic extract of Spiraea ulmaria.

10. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract comprises peptides and carbohydrates.

11. Cosmetic active ingredient comprising a hydroglycolic extract of Spiraea ulmaria, said extract comprising proanthocyanidols and ellagitannins.

12. Cosmetic active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ellagitannins comprise tellimagrandins.

13. Cosmetic active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a. Solubilization of Spiraea ulmaria in a mixture consisting of water and butylene glycol (25:75), b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, c. Filtration of the soluble phase, d. Selective elimination of polyphenols by absorption, and e. Sterilizing filtration.

14. Cosmetic active ingredient according to one of claims 11 to 13, for its use in combating skin irritation.

15. Cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% of an active ingredient according to one of claims 11 to 13, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

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