Surfactant-free cosmetic emulsion having a low aqueous phase content

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, essentially free of surfactant(s), comprising: – an aqueous phase in a content of less than or equal to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; – a fatty phase comprising at least one oil; – stabilizing particles at the interface of the aqueous and fatty phases having a volume median size (Dv50) measured under wet conditions of from 1 to 80 µm, in a content of 0.05% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

[0001] Cosmetic emulsion without surfactants with low aqueous phase content

[0002] Field of invention

[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition essentially free of surfactants in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase content of less than 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials using this composition.

[0004] Technical background

[0005] Cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions often contain an aqueous phase whose content by weight or volume is significantly higher than that of the fatty phase. This high water content often allows for better stabilization of emulsions and has advantages in sensory terms.

[0006] From an environmental point of view, it is desirable to limit the quantity of aqueous phase present in cosmetic emulsions, particularly from the point of view of the consumption of water resources and the transport of this water.

[0007] Most cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions include surfactants among their ingredients. These compounds allow for easy stabilization of emulsions and are widely used in the cosmetics industry. However, surfactants have the disadvantage of being potentially irritating or even allergenic compounds, while also presenting ecological disadvantages, particularly due to the water pollution they cause.

[0008] Moreover, when the fat phase content is high, it becomes difficult to identify suitable surfactants.

[0009] Pickering emulsions are emulsions stabilized by particles that are at the interface between the aqueous and fatty phases. Pickering emulsions may or may not contain surfactants. They have been described in several different applications, particularly in the food industry but also in the cosmetics field.

[0010] The following documents in particular are likely to disclose Pickering and / or surfactant-free emulsions, either in the cosmetic field or in other fields:

[0011] - EP 2897692,

[0012] - CN 114557949,

[0013] - US 8128947,

[0014] - KR 20200021849,

[0015] - WO 2022 / 207477,

[0016] - US 2022 / 000730,

[0017] - US 2023 / 149270,

[0018] - TH 10705,

[0019] - KR 102151804,

[0020] - US 6,162,447,

[0021] - US 11 ,033,484,

[0022] - US 2018 / 0141015,

[0023] - Formulation of Pickering Emulsions for the development of surfactant-free sunscreen creams, Chevalier et al., Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 43(4):432-445 (2021 ),

[0024] - Water-in-Oil Pickering Emulsions Stabilized by Synergistic Particle- Particle Interactions, Zembyla et al., Langmuir 35(40):13078-13089 (2019),

[0025] - Particles as surfactants - similarities and differences, B.P. Binks, Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science 7:21 -41 (2002),

[0026] - Pickering emulsions stabilized by native starch granules, C. Li et al., Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochem. Eng. Aspects 431 :142-149 (2013),

[0027] - Starch -based Pickering emulsions for topical drug delivery: A QbD approach, J.Marto et al., Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces 135:183-192 (2015),

[0028] - High internal phase Pickering emulsions, A. Bago Rodriguez & B.P. Binks, Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science 57:101556 (2022),

[0029] - Nano - and microparticle -stabilized Pickering emulsions designed for topical therapeutics and cosmetic applications, S. Peito et al., International Journal of Pharmaceutics 615:121455 (2022), - One -step High Internal Phase Pickering Emulsions stabilized by uncracked micronized orange pomace, D. Huc-Mathis et al., Innovative Food Science and Emerging Technologies 79:103029 (2022),

[0030] - Sustainable food-grade Pickering emulsions stabilized by plantbased particles, A. Sarkar & E. Dickinson, Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 49:69-81 (2020),

[0031] - A review of recent progress on high internal -phase Pickering emulsions in food science, Abdullah et al., Trends in Food Science & Technology, 106:91 -103 (2020).

[0032] There is currently a need for cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions, having a relatively low content of aqueous phase, exhibiting satisfactory stability properties and exhibiting favorable environmental characteristics.

[0033] Summary of the invention

[0034] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, essentially free of surfactant(s), comprising:

[0035] - an aqueous phase in a content less than or equal to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0036] - a fatty phase comprising at least one oil;

[0037] - stabilizing particles at the interface of the aqueous and fatty phases having a median size by volume (Dv50) measured in the wet process of 0.1 to 100 pm, in a content of 0.05 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0038] According to embodiments, the aqueous phase is in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of 0.5 to 45%, preferably of 5 to 35% and even more preferably of 10 to 25%.

[0039] According to embodiments, the aqueous phase further comprises one or more alcohols, advantageously chosen from:

[0040] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;

[0041] - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] According to embodiments, the stabilizing particles are:

[0043] - organic stabilizing particles selected from the group consisting of: microcrystalline cellulose, a micronized vegetable wax, preferably a micronized rice wax, starch, preferably rice or corn or tapioca or quinoa starch, optionally in the form of sodium starch octenylsuccinate salt, fruit by-products, preferably apple or orange by-products, and mixtures thereof and / or;

[0044] - inorganic stabilizing particles chosen from the group consisting of: diatomaceous earth, silica, mica, zinc oxide, kaolin, smectite, bentonite and mixtures thereof.

[0045] According to embodiments, the stabilizing particles are in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of 0.1 to 20%, more preferably of 0.5 to 10%, and even more preferably of 1 to 5%.

[0046] According to embodiments, the stabilizing particles have a median volume size Dv50 measured in the wet process of 2 to 75 pm and even more preferably of 2.5 to 50 pm.

[0047] According to embodiments, the fatty phase comprises one or more substances chosen from hydrocarbon oils, waxes, pasty fatty compounds, and mixtures thereof, and comprising one or more substances chosen from vegetable oils, alcohol oils, ester oils, volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils.

[0048] According to embodiments, the fatty phase has a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of 40 to 99%, preferably of 55 to 95% and even more preferably of 60 to 90%.

[0049] According to embodiments, the cosmetic composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in addition to the aqueous phase, from 60 to 90% by weight of fatty phase, from 0.1 to 15% by weight of stabilizing particles, and from 0 to 10% by weight of cosmetically acceptable additives; or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in addition to the aqueous phase, from 60 to 90% by weight of fatty phase, from 0.1 to 20% by weight of stabilizing particles, and from 0 to 10% by weight of cosmetically acceptable additives.

[0050] According to embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises cosmetically acceptable water-soluble additives selected from gelling agents, film-forming agents, colorants, pigments, fragrances, stabilizers, preservatives, polymers, rheology agents, electrolytes, pH adjusters, antioxidants and mixtures thereof. According to embodiments, the fatty phase comprises cosmetically acceptable fat-soluble additives selected from gelling agents, film-forming agents, colorants, pigments, fragrances, stabilizers, preservatives, polymers, rheology agents, electrolytes, pH adjusters, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.

[0051] According to embodiments, the organic or inorganic stabilizing particles comprise, preferably consist of:

[0052] - microcrystalline cellulose particles having a volume median size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 60 pm (micrometers), preferably of 2 to 50 pm; and / or

[0053] - orange co-product particles having a volume median size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 30 pm, preferably of 2 to 10 pm; and / or

[0054] - micronized rice wax particles having a volume median size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 50 pm, preferably of 5 to 40 pm; and / or

[0055] - silica particles having a volume median size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 30 pm, preferably of 2 to 10 pm; and / or

[0056] - zinc oxide particles having a volume median size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 20 pm, preferably of 2 to 10 pm; and / or

[0057] - bentonite particles having a median volume size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 20 pm, preferably 1 to 10 pm.

[0058] According to embodiments, the cosmetic composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0059] According to embodiments, the cosmetic composition is in the form of a cosmetic cream, in particular for the care and / or conditioning of the skin.

[0060] According to embodiments, the cosmetic composition is in the form of a liquid foundation at 20°C, with one or more of the following optional characteristics:

[0061] - the aqueous phase content may be 35 to 45% by weight, more preferably 40 to 45% by weight;

[0062] - the stabilizing particles may be or may comprise bentonite particles, optionally in association with kaolin particles or starch particles, in particular sodium starch octenylsuccinate;

[0063] - the total content of stabilizing particles in the composition may be from 0.4 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight;

[0064] - the fatty phase may comprise a mixture of alkanes, and / or the aqueous phase may comprise a mixture of water and glycol, and / or the composition may comprise one or more rheology agents, and / or the composition may comprise one or more pigments, preferably inorganic, for example iron oxide, preferably in a content of 5 to 30%, more preferably in a content of 10 to 20% by weight.

[0065] The invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, comprising the application of a composition as defined above, to said keratin materials of a person.

[0066] The invention also relates to a method for making up the skin, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition in the form of a liquid foundation at 20°C as mentioned above to the skin, in particular to the skin of the face.

[0067] The present invention makes it possible to meet the need expressed above. More particularly, it provides cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions, having a relatively low content of aqueous phase, exhibiting satisfactory stability properties, and exhibiting favorable environmental characteristics.

[0068] In particular, the invention provides cosmetic compositions in the form of Pickering emulsions, essentially free of surfactants, and having an aqueous phase content of less than or equal to 45% by weight. These compositions are stable and have favorable sensory and textural properties. The particles used for stabilizing these emulsions are advantageously not classified as nanometric, which avoids any health risk associated with this type of material.

[0069] Detailed description

[0070] The invention is now described in more detail and in a non-limiting manner in the following description.

[0071] All percentages given are by weight unless otherwise stated.

[0072] Emulsions The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil Pickering emulsion.

[0073] Oil-in-water emulsions (O / W) are emulsions where a fatty phase is dispersed in the form of spheres or drops in a continuous aqueous phase.

[0074] Water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions are emulsions where an aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of spheres or drops in a continuous fatty phase.

[0075] The compositions according to the invention are Pickering emulsions, that is to say emulsions stabilized by stabilizing particles and essentially free of surfactants.

[0076] By composition "essentially free of surfactants" is meant that it contains less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight of surfactants.

[0077] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is completely free of surfactant.

[0078] By "surfactant" or surfactant, we mean an amphiphilic molecule, i.e. one having two parts of different polarities with a lipophilic part (soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase) and a hydrophilic part (soluble or dispersible in the aqueous phase). Surfactants are generally characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic balance or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), which is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O / W emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DAVIES method.

[0079] A surfactant can be cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic.

[0080] Among other things, we can cite:

[0081] - as non-ionic surfactants: poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl- ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl- ethers, alkyl- and polyalkyl- glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl- glucosides or polyglucosides, sucrose alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl- ethers, and mixtures thereof;

[0082] - as anionic surfactants: alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, metal salts of C10-C30 fatty acids, mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, alkyl ether citrates, alkoxylated glucose alkenylsuccinates and alkoxylated methylglucose alkenylsuccinates, fatty esters of phosphoric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] - as cationic surfactants: alkylimidazolidiniums, ammonium salts and their mixtures;

[0084] - as amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants: betaines, / V-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, glycine derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates, and their mixtures.

[0085] In some embodiments, by "substantially free of surfactants" is meant that the composition is essentially free of compounds listed in the four dashes above.

[0086] In some embodiments, by "substantially free of surfactants" is meant that the composition is essentially free of compounds having an HLB of 3 to 18.

[0087] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is essentially free of emulsifying polymers (i.e. it contains less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight of emulsifying polymers).

[0088] For the purposes of the invention, the term "emulsifying polymer" is intended to denote a polymer having amphiphilic properties, i.e. having at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part. Hydrophilic groups and hydrophobic groups are well known to those skilled in the art. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" is intended to denote a compound comprising at least two repeating units, in particular at least five repeating units. The emulsifying polymers may be, for example, amphiphilic acrylic acid derivatives comprising both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain (comprising from 7 to 30 carbon atoms), amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) unit comprising both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain.

[0089] The compositions according to the invention comprise stabilizing particles, an aqueous phase, a fatty phase, and cosmetically acceptable water-soluble and / or fat-soluble additives. The characteristics of the raw materials which can make up the compositions will be listed below.

[0090] In particular embodiments, the composition may be in the form of:

[0091] - an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising, in addition to the aqueous phase, from 60 to 90% by weight of fatty phase, from 0.1 to 15% by weight of stabilizing particles, and from 0 to 10% by weight of cosmetically acceptable additives;

[0092] - a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising, in addition to the aqueous phase, from 60 to 90% by weight of fatty phase, from 0.1 to 20% by weight of stabilizing particles, and from 0 to 10% by weight of cosmetically acceptable additives.

[0093] The compositions of the invention can be characterized by a pH of between 4 and 11, preferably between 4.5 and 10.5 and even more preferably between 5 and 10.

[0094] The compositions according to the invention comprise a dispersed phase in a continuous phase, the dispersed phase being in the form of drops. The compositions according to the invention, depending on the conditions and the raw materials used, may comprise macro-drops.

[0095] The drops may have a median size / volume median diameter between 1 and 500 pm, preferably between 2.5 and 400 pm and even more preferably between 5 and 350 pm.

[0096] When the drops are macro-drops, they may have a median volume size between 500 and 15,000 pm, preferably between 850 and 12,500 pm and even more preferably between 900 and 10,000 pm.

[0097] The median volume size of the drops can be determined by analyzing images acquired, for example, by optical microscopy.

[0098] The stability of the compositions according to the invention can be characterized by a percentage of backscattering (BS%) of the light, which can be measured using a stability analyzer, for example a Turbiscan LAB device. When the backscattering of the light is measured on a sample having a certain height, it generally presents significant variations at both ends at the bottom and at the top of the sample. Between the two, at a given moment, the backscattering of the light is almost constant, in the form of a plateau. Here, the percentage BS% corresponds to the value obtained on this plateau, for example at mid-height of the sample.

[0099] BS% tO refers to the percentage BS% immediately after emulsification (time tO). The BS% tO parameter allows us to assess both the size and concentration of the elements in the emulsion.

[0100] ABS refers to the relative variation of BS% between t0 and t14 (corresponding to 14 ème day after making the emulsion). The ABS parameter can be formulated according to the following equation:

[0101] (BS% tO - BS% tl4)

[0102] BS% tO

[0103] When the ABS parameter reaches high positive values, this indicates potential colloidal instability, i.e., coalescence, implying that the emulsion drops are larger and / or fewer in number compared to tO. When the ABS parameter reaches significant negative values, this indicates gravitational instability, i.e., creaming or sedimentation of the emulsion. An ABS value of 0 corresponds to a perfectly stable emulsion.

[0104] The compositions according to the invention advantageously have an ABS close to 0. Preferably, the ABS of the emulsions according to the invention is between -55 and +30, preferably between -10 and +15, even more preferably between -5 and +5.

[0105] Stabilizing particles

[0106] The compositions according to the invention contain particles stabilizing the emulsion of the invention. These stabilizing particles are placed at the interface of the aqueous and fatty phases during the emulsification process. They cover (preferably uniformly) the surface of the drops of the dispersed phase, and thus prevent or limit the phenomena of coalescence and the phase separation of the emulsion.

[0107] The position of the particles at the interface of the two phases can be verified by observing a sample of the emulsion under optical microscopy or confocal microscopy. The stabilizing particles are solid objects in the compositions, i.e. essentially insoluble in the aqueous phase and in the fatty phase.

[0108] By "essentially insoluble" is meant that said particles may comprise a fraction, called "soluble fraction", which dissolves in one of the phases at the time of emulsification, without this affecting the stabilizing function by the fraction of said particles which is not soluble.

[0109] Where the particles comprise a soluble fraction, the weight contents of the particles referred to herein are calculated in relation to the total weight of the particles (including the soluble fraction) as incorporated into the composition at the time of their preparation.

[0110] In some embodiments, the stabilizing particles comprise a soluble fraction that comprises pectin.

[0111] Stabilizing particles can be of organic or inorganic origin.

[0112] “Organic origin” means any particles whose chemical composition includes carbon atoms within the meaning of organic chemistry. This excludes, for example, simple carbon compounds such as carbon allotropes, carbon oxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, ionic cyanides, metal carbides, and silicon carbides. Organic particles may be of synthetic or natural origin, and preferably of natural origin. Organic particles of natural origin may be of plant or animal origin. Organic particles may be, for example, co-products, biopolymers, or waxes.

[0113] By-product means a by-product that is obtained during a manufacturing process of a final product from an initial product. Co-products may, for example, come from the food industry, forestry, milling, or biofuel production. Co-products may include mixtures of molecules and biomolecules derived from the initial product.

[0114] The stabilizing particles according to the invention may comprise or consist of plant or animal co-products. The plant co-products may be derived from all or part of the plant, this includes fruits, seeds, flowers, stems, bulbs, leaves, tubers, sprouts, roots or bark and mixtures thereof.

[0115] In particular, the stabilizing particles according to the invention may comprise or consist of a powder obtained by drying and micronization of fruit pulp, a co-product from the manufacture of juices and alcohols. A fruit co-product may comprise a soluble fraction containing in particular pectin and polyphenols, and an insoluble fraction comprising mainly cellulose.

[0116] In a preferred embodiment, the fruit used is a citrus fruit or an apple. Citrus fruits are the fruits of plants belonging to the Rutaceae family, in particular the genera Citrus, Fortunella, Microcitrus, Eremocitrus and Poncirus, or even hybrid plants obtained by crossing different varieties or species of species such as Citrofortunella. The citrus fruit consists of segments containing pulp on the one hand, and a peel, also called the pericarp on the other. The peel itself is made up of two concentric layers. The surface layer has a rough and resistant texture, often bright orange-yellow in color, rich in flavonoids, which is called the epicarp, or zest in cooking. The inner, white, spongy layer is the mesocarp.

[0117] Citrus fruits can be chosen, for example, from lemons, clementines, kumquats, bergamots, limes, sweet limes, mandarins, oranges, grapefruits, pomelos, tangerines, kaffir limes, yuzus, citrons and calamondins.

[0118] The fruit co-product may in particular be an orange co-product, for example a powder obtained by drying and micronization of orange pulp, or an apple co-product, for example a powder obtained by drying and micronization of apple pulp.

[0119] Animal co-products may be derived from the external skeleton of mollusks, gastropods, or arthropods. A mollusk or gastropod co-product may include polysaccharides, proteins, or minerals such as calcium carbonate. An arthropod co-product may include chitin and crosslinking agents. Animal co-products may also be derived from the eggs of oviparous animals. A co-product from eggs may include mineral salts of calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium, as well as proteins.

[0120] The term "biopolymers" means polymers composed of biomonomers derived from biomass. Biopolymers may include polysaccharides, and in particular starch or cellulose. The starch is preferably derived from rice or corn or tapioca or quinoa. The starch may be used in modified or unmodified form. A preferred example of a modified form is sodium starch octenylsuccinate salt. The cellulose is preferably microcrystalline cellulose.

[0121] The term "wax" means a hydrophobic substance which is solid at room temperature (25°C), exhibiting a reversible solid / liquid state change and a melting temperature above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0122] The melting temperature corresponds to the abscissa of the summit of the main melting peak, which is read on a thermogram (also called a "melting curve") representing the evolution of the heat absorbed by the fatty substance as a function of the temperature to which it is exposed, during a linear rise in temperature over time.

[0123] The thermogram is recorded, for example, by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example using a differential thermal analyzer model DSC 1 from Mettler-Toledo.

[0124] For example, we can use the measurement protocol below:

[0125] - a mass of 10 to 20 mg of wax sample is placed in a 40 μl crucible with a lid pierced with a hole of diameter 50 μm.

[0126] The temperature cycle undergone by the sample can be as follows:

[0127] - 5 minutes of stabilization at 25°C;

[0128] - an initial heating from 25 to a maximum temperature well above the melting temperature (for example 100°C) at a speed of 10°C / min, which aims to “erase” the thermal past of the sample linked to its industrial manufacturing method, by achieving total melting

[0129] - cooling from the maximum temperature down to -50°C at a rate of 5°C / min, in order to completely crystallize the sample at a controlled rate;

[0130] - a second heating from -50°C to the maximum temperature, at a speed of 10°C / min, which allows a fully crystallized sample to be melted under controlled conditions, allowing rigorous comparison between samples.

[0131] The temperature value obtained at the melting peak during the second heating corresponds to the melting temperature of the sample.

[0132] The melting temperature of the micronized wax stabilizing the emulsion is higher than the emulsification temperature of the phases according to the process for preparing the composition of the invention. Thus, the wax particles remain in the solid state at the time of the emulsification step of the aqueous and fatty phases and are placed at the interface of the two phases to stabilize the composition.

[0133] The wax may be chosen from C10-C100 heavy chain hydrocarbons, alkanes, cycloalkanes, polysiloxanes, esters of unsaturated or unsaturated C2-C100 alcohols or polyols with unsaturated or unsaturated C6-C100 fatty acids, the products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols comprising from 20 to 50 carbon atoms, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, ceramides, phospholipids or sphingolipids, waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, Chinese wax, lanolin, shellac; waxes of vegetable origin such as Myrica wax, carnauba wax, castor wax, Japanese wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, Japanese wax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax, carnauba wax or soy wax; mineral such as ozokerite or Montan wax;or synthetic waxes such as, for example, paraffin waxes, silicone waxes, in particular alkyl dimethicones, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with a fatty alcohol, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis or microcrystalline waxes, and mixtures thereof.;

[0134] Preferably, the waxes used as stabilizing particles of the invention are waxes with a high melting point (melting temperature), for example greater than or equal to 60°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C, even better greater than or equal to 75°C.

[0135] According to embodiments, the wax may be rice wax having a melting point at about 80°C.

[0136] Preferably, the waxes are micronized.

[0137] According to a variant of the invention, the stabilizing particles may be of inorganic origin.

[0138] By "inorganic origin" is meant particles that are not of organic origin, as defined above. This nevertheless includes for example simple carbon compounds such as carbon allotropes, carbon oxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, ionic cyanides, metal carbides and silicon carbides. The inorganic particles may be of synthetic origin or of natural origin, and preferably of natural origin. The inorganic stabilizing particles may comprise or consist of transition metal or poor metal oxides, for example iron oxides, aluminum oxides, titanium oxides or zinc oxides. Preferably, the metal oxide is zinc oxide.

[0139] The inorganic stabilizing particles may comprise or consist of particles derived from sedimentary siliceous rocks such as radiolarites, spiculites, spongolites and diatomites such as diatomaceous earth; or silicate minerals such as phyllosilicates including the mica group and their mixture and the clay group and their mixture. The clays may be natural or synthetic. Preferably, the clays are kaolinite, smectite, bentonite or laponite.

[0140] Generally speaking, the stabilizing particles may consist of a single type of stabilizing particles such as those described above, or consist of a mixture of at least two types of stabilizing particles of different nature or origin, for example a mixture of inorganic particles and particles of a fruit by-product, or a mixture of two types of metal oxides.

[0141] Stabilizing particles can have different shapes, including fibrillar, cubic, globular, platelet-like or even cubic.

[0142] According to the invention, the stabilizing particles may have a median volume size Dv50 measured in the wet process of 0.1 to 100 pm, preferably of 0.5 to 90 pm and more preferably of 1 to 80 pm, and of 1 to 60 pm, better still of 1.5 to 10 pm. This Dv50 may in particular be from 1 to 5 pm, or from 5 to 10 pm, or from 10 to 20 pm, or from 20 to 30 pm, or from 30 to 50 pm, or from 50 to 75 pm, or from 75 to 100 pm. The Dv50 corresponds to the particle size at 50 ème percentile (by volume) of the cumulative particle size distribution.

[0143] In this case, the Dv50 characterizes the particle size distribution of a population of particles of the same chemical nature or origin. In the case of a mixture of at least two types of stabilizing particles of different nature or origin, each type of population will be characterized by its own Dv50 value, rather than by a single Dv50 value for the total population of stabilizing particles.

[0144] The cumulative particle size distribution (by volume) can be obtained in particular by laser particle size measurement. For example, a Mastersizer 3000 particle size analyzer can be used. The term "wet method" means a measuring method in which the particles are suspended in a solvent, preferably water. Before measurement, the particles, at a content of 2% by weight suspended in water, are stirred for 3 minutes at 10,000 revolutions per minute (rpm).

[0145] Preferably, the stabilizing particles comprise, or consist of:

[0146] - a population of microcrystalline cellulose particles having a Dv50, measured wet, of 1 to 60 pm, preferably of 2 to 50 pm; and / or

[0147] - a population of orange co-product particles having a Dv50 measured in the wet process, from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 2 to 10 pm; and / or

[0148] - a population of micronized rice wax particles having a Dv50, measured wet, of 1 to 50 pm, preferably of 5 to 40 pm; and / or

[0149] - a population of silica particles having a Dv50, measured wet, of 1 to 30 pm, preferably of 2 to 10 pm; and / or

[0150] - a population of zinc oxide particles having a Dv50, measured wet, of 1 to 20 pm, preferably of 2 to 10 pm; and / or

[0151] - a population of bentonite particles having a Dv50, measured wet, of 1 to 20 pm, preferably of 1 to 10 pm.

[0152] Preferably, the stabilizing particles comprise, or consist of:

[0153] - a population of orange pulp particles with the INCI name CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS FRUIT POWDER;

[0154] - a population of bentonite particles with the INCI name BENTONITE;

[0155] - and their mixtures.

[0156] In other preferred embodiments, the stabilizing particles comprise, or consist of:

[0157] - a population of starch particles (in particular corn starch and / or rice starch and / or tapioca starch and / or sodium starch octenylsuccinate), preferably with a Dv50, measured wet, of 1 to 40 pm, more preferably of 1.5 to 20 pm; or

[0158] - a population of microcrystalline cellulose particles, preferably with a Dv50, measured wet, of 1 to 20 pm, more preferably of 2 to 10 pm; or - a population of micronized rice wax particles, preferably with a Dv50, measured wet, of 10 to 60 pm, more preferably of 20 to 50 pm; or

[0159] - a population of kaolin particles, preferably with a Dv50, measured wet, of 1 to 20 pm, more preferably of 2 to 10 pm; or

[0160] - a population of smectite particles, preferably with a Dv50, measured wet, of 1 to 20 pm, more preferably of 2 to 10 pm; or

[0161] - a population of bentonite particles, preferably with a Dv50, measured wet, of 1 to 15 pm, more preferably of 1.5 to 10 pm; or

[0162] - or their mixtures.

[0163] The total content of stabilizing particles by weight relative to the total weight of the composition is from 0.05 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight.

[0164] Preferably, the composition may comprise a total content of 0.05 to 1% by weight, 1 to 2.5% by weight, 2.5 to 5% by weight, 5 to 7.5% by weight, 7.5 to 10% by weight, 12.5 to 15% by weight, 15 to 17.5% by weight or 17.5 to 20% by weight, 20 to 25% by weight or 25 to 30% by weight of stabilizing particles.

[0165] Fat phase

[0166] The compositions according to the invention contain a fatty phase, continuous or dispersed in the composition of the invention. This fatty phase comprises at least one oil (liquid fatty substance at room temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure), and may further comprise solid or pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

[0167] The fatty phase is in a content greater than or equal to 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 40 to 99%, more preferably from 55 to 95% and even more preferably from 60 to 90%.

[0168] Preferably, the composition comprises from 40 to 45% by weight, 45 to 50% by weight, 50 to 55% by weight, 60 to 65% by weight, 65 to 70% by weight, 70 to 75% by weight, 75 to 80% by weight, 80 to 85% by weight or 85 to 90% by weight, 90 to 95% by weight or 90 to 99% by weight of fatty phase. Preferably, the fatty phase comprises one or more oils, or consists essentially of one or more oils.

[0169] Oils can be of mineral, synthetic or natural (bio-sourced) origin, preferably of natural origin. The oils are preferably miscible with each other.

[0170] The fatty phase may include hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0171] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen atoms, and free from heteroatoms such as N, Si, F and P. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil.

[0172] By “silicone oil” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0173] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty phase is free of silicone oil.

[0174] The hydrocarbon oils may advantageously comprise oils of vegetable origin, alcohol oils (having at least one alcohol function), ester oils (having at least one ester function), bio-sourced (vegetable) hydrocarbons; mineral or synthetic oils; synthetic C10-C40 ethers, higher C12-C22 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] Oils of plant origin, also called "vegetable oils", are obtained by extraction from a part of a plant (seeds, fruits, etc.) or from whole plants, for example by pressing, without chemical transformation after the extraction stage.

[0176] Vegetable oils are usually made up of a complex mixture of compounds and may include saturated, monounsaturated, or polyunsaturated fatty acids alone or condensed as triglycerides. They may include other constituents such as vitamins.

[0177] Examples of vegetable oils are sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, rosehip oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, camelina oil, jojoba oil or liquid jojoba wax, borage oil, cottonseed oil, grapeseed oil, argan oil, black cumin oil, pumpkin seed oil, perilla oil, castor oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, babassu oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, rye oil, sesame oil, marula oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, plum oil, shea oil,meadowfoam oil and mixtures thereof.,

[0178] Among the "oil alcohols", or fatty alcohols, mention may be made in particular of C8-C30 alcohols, in particular C10-C26, more particularly C10-C24, and preferably C12-C22, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, more particularly monoalcohols. More particularly, C10-C26 fatty monoalcohols may be used, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0179] Examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention include linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or natural origin. Other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols.

[0180] As particular examples of fatty alcohols which may be used, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0181] Among the “ester oils”, we can notably cite:

[0182] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0183] - fatty acid esters, in particular having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0184] - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the total number of carbon atoms in Ri and R2 is at least 16, such as, for example, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate;

[0185] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;

[0186] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0187] - esters of fatty alcohols or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;

[0188] - triglycerides, resulting from the condensation of a glycerol with linear, cyclic or branched C2-C100 acids, monoacids or polyacids, saturated or not, such as for example triglycerides resulting from caprylic acid, capric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and their mixtures;

[0189] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated;

[0190] - and their mixtures.

[0191] Examples of hydrocarbons that can be used according to the invention include linear or branched hydrocarbons of biosourced, mineral or synthetic origin such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, squalane, isoeicosane, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] The alkanes used in the context of the invention are advantageously obtained from bio-sourced raw materials.

[0193] The alkanes of the invention can thus be obtained from vegetable oils using conventional chemical processes, such as those derived from synthetic biology obtained from sugar. Examples include processes for producing linear or branched alkanes from palm oil, palm kernel oil or coconut oil to produce, for example, mixtures of C11-13 or C15-C19 alkanes. A process is also known for manufacturing biosourced isododecane by enzymatic fermentation from a glucose-rich sugar syrup. These processes make it possible to obtain mixtures of linear and / or branched alkanes whose relative volatility gives them particularly interesting properties in the field of makeup products, and in particular foundations, which are applied to the skin.

[0194] As linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, we can cite in particular: C8-C16 iso-alkanes (or isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, hemisqualane, n-dodecane, n-tetradecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®; linear alkanes having respectively hydrocarbon chains in: C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Créations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate, C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15, C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97; and mixtures thereof.

[0195] Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, in particular linear C9-C13 alkanes; branched C8-C16 esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0196] Examples of silicone oils include linear or cyclic, phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0197] The silicone oil may in particular be chosen from I dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) whose viscosity ranges from 0.5 to 6 centistokes (cSt), alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones, phenylated silicone oils, non-phenylated silicone oils, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) comprising at least one C2-24 alkyl or alkoxy group, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, and mixtures thereof.

[0198] The oil may be present in a content equal to or greater than 60% by weight relative to the weight of the fatty phase, preferably greater than 80% by weight and even more preferably greater than 90% by weight (total quantity of oils, when several oils are present).

[0199] According to an advantageous variant, the oil constitutes 100% by weight of the fatty phase (total quantity of oils, when several oils are present).

[0200] The fatty phase may also contain a “fatty substance” that is solid at 25°C, such as a wax, a pasty fatty substance, and mixtures thereof. “Pasty fatty substance” means a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0201] The waxes incorporated into the fatty phase are distinguished from the wax particles stabilizing the composition of the invention in that they all have a melting temperature lower than the emulsification temperature of the emulsion according to the invention. These waxes are melted to be mixed with the other constituents of the fatty phase, in particular the oil(s). These waxes, dispersed homogeneously in the fatty phase of the composition, have the function of texturizing said fatty phase and the final composition, and do not stabilize the emulsion at the water / oil interface.

[0202] Waxes in the form of particles stabilizing the emulsion have a melting temperature higher than the emulsification temperature. They are thus maintained in a solid state throughout the preparation of the emulsion and during the emulsification step, are placed at the water / oil interface to stabilize the emulsion.

[0203] The waxes in the fatty phase can be chosen from the same types of waxes as those mentioned above in relation to the stabilizing wax particles.

[0204] Examples of pasty compounds include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives that are not liquid at room temperature, butters, esters of polyol(s) and of a fatty acid dimer diacid, or of one of its esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, and mixtures thereof.

[0205] Among the fatty acid triglycerides, mention may be made of triglycerides based on one or more fatty acids preferably chosen from caprylic acid, capric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures of these fatty acids.

[0206] Among the butters, one can use murumuru butter, mango butter or oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, Cupuaçu butter, and their mixtures.

[0207] Aqueous phase

[0208] The aqueous phase comprises water. It may comprise or consist of water and one or more water-soluble solvents. In some embodiments, it consists essentially of, or consists of, water.

[0209] The aqueous phase is in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of less than or equal to 45%, preferably 0.5 to 45%, more preferably 5 to 35% and even more preferably 10 to 25%.

[0210] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.5 to 5% by weight, from 5 to 10% by weight, from 10 to 15% by weight, from 15 to 20% by weight, from 20 to 25% by weight, from 25 to 30% by weight, from 30 to 35% by weight, 35 to 40% by weight or from 40 to 45% by weight of aqueous phase. Preferably, the aqueous phase is in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of from 0.5 to 45%, preferably from 5 to 35% and even more preferably from 10 to 25%.

[0211] The water-soluble solvents are preferably alcohols. The alcohols may be monoalcohols, diols, or polyols and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the monoalcohols may be linear, branched, or cyclic C1-C5 and may be, for example, ethanol or isopropanol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably ethanol. Preferably, the diols or glycols may be linear, branched, cyclic, or aromatic C2-C8 and may be, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyols may be linear, branched, cyclic, or aromatic C2-C32 and may be, for example, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] More preferably, the water-soluble solvents are monoalcohols.

[0213] The content of water-soluble solvents by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase may range from 0.1 to 75%, preferably from 1 to 50% and more preferably from 5 to 30%.

[0214] The content of water-soluble solvents by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase may be 0.01 to 5% by weight, 5 to 10% by weight, 10 to 15% by weight, 20 to 25% by weight, 25 to 30% by weight, 30 to 35% by weight, 40 to 45% by weight, 45 to 50% by weight, 50 to 55% by weight, 55 to 60% by weight, 60 to 65% by weight, 65 to 70% by weight or 70 to 75%.

[0215] Cosmetically acceptable additives

[0216] The aqueous phase and the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable additives.

[0217] The aqueous phase advantageously comprises one or more cosmetically acceptable water-soluble or hydrophilic additives. The fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more cosmetically acceptable liposoluble or lipophilic additives.

[0218] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable additives in the continuous phase or the dispersed phase of the emulsion.

[0219] Generally speaking, these additives aim to give the composition of the invention improved properties from a cosmetic point of view, for example to texture or thicken the formula to make it more pleasant to apply or to form a continuous and flexible film on the skin, to produce a visual effect (mattifying or colored) or to give it protective properties against UV rays (filters) or germs (preservatives).

[0220] These additives can be in powder form and are then distinguished from stabilizing particles in that, unlike the latter, they are dispersed homogeneously in one and / or the other phase (aqueous or fatty) of the composition and not at the water / oil interface.

[0221] Cosmetically acceptable additives include, for example:

[0222] - gelling agents;

[0223] - film-forming agents;

[0224] - colorants;

[0225] - charges;

[0226] - pigments;

[0227] - perfumes;

[0228] - preservatives;

[0229] - electrolytes;

[0230] - pH adjusters;

[0231] - antioxidant agents;

[0232] - cosmetic active agents;

[0233] - cationic or anionic salts;

[0234] - and their mixtures.

[0235] As gelling agents and film-forming agents, mention may be made of synthetic hydrocarbon or silicone polymers and copolymers, natural or naturally occurring compounds, native or chemically modified, possibly modified mineral gelling agents, and their mixtures.

[0236] Gelling agents and film-forming agents can be solubilized or dispersed in one of the phases of the composition according to their affinity.

[0237] It is understood that some of the additives that may be present in the composition (in particular fillers and pigments) may be in the form of solid particles. However, these particles are distinguished from the stabilizing particles described above in that they are not specifically arranged at the interface of the two phases of the emulsion.

[0238] In some embodiments, the composition is free of solid particles except for the stabilizing particles described above.

[0239] The additive(s) may be present in the composition in a total content of 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight. Possible contents (by weight) may be 0 to 0.1%; 0.1 to 0.2%; 0.2 to 0.5%; 0.5 to 1%, 1 to 2%; 2 to 5%, 5 to 10%; 10 to 15%; 15 to 20%.

[0240] Preparation process

[0241] The compositions can be obtained in particular by a process comprising:

[0242] - a step a) of dispersing the stabilizing particles in a first phase by any means known to those skilled in the art to form a dispersed phase;

[0243] - a step b) of adding the second phase to the previously formed dispersed phase;

[0244] - a step c) of emulsification by any means known to those skilled in the art.

[0245] Preferably, in step a), the first phase is the fatty phase or a part of the fatty phase.

[0246] Preferably, steps a), b) and c) are carried out with the same apparatus.

[0247] Preferably, the apparatus of steps a), b) and c) is a rotor-stator emulsifying homogenizer.

[0248] The dispersion step a) can be carried out for a period of 1 second to 1 minute, 1 to 5 minutes, 5 to 20 minutes, 20 to 45 minutes, 45 minutes to 2 hours or 2 hours to 4 hours. Preferably, the dispersion step a) is carried out for a period of 0.5 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 15 minutes and even more preferably 2 to 10 minutes.

[0249] The dispersion step a) may be carried out by a rotor-stator agitator or a deflocculating turbine at a stirring speed of 1 to 1000 rpm, 1000 to 2500 rpm, 2500 to 5000 rpm, 5000 to 7500 rpm, 7500 to 10,000 rpm, 10,000 to 15,000 rpm, 15,000 to 25,000 rpm or 25,000 to 50,000 rpm. Preferably, the dispersion step a) is carried out at a stirring speed of 250 to 25,000 rpm, preferably 500 to 20,000 rpm and even more preferably 750 to 17,500 rpm.

[0250] Steps b) and c) are preferably carried out concomitantly. During steps b) and c), there may be several successive stirring phases at different stirring speeds. These phases may have identical or different durations. There may be 1 to 3 stirring phases, 3 to 6 stirring phases, 6 to 9 stirring phases, 9 to 12 stirring phases or 12 to 15 stirring phases. Preferably, steps b) and c) comprise 1 to 9 stirring phases, and more preferably 1 to 6 stirring phases. The stirring times and speeds for these stirring phases correspond to the times and speeds as defined above.

[0251] Steps a), b) and c) may be carried out at the same or different temperatures. Preferably, the temperature of these steps is 10 to 100°C, preferably 20 to 90°C and even more preferably 30 to 80°C.

[0252] Additives, when present, are added at one or more of the steps in the process described above.

[0253] They can also be added to the continuous phase after step c), advantageously in a fraction of continuous phase in which they are previously solubilized or dispersed. This latter phase is then added to the emulsion of the invention with gentle stirring, which does not destabilize the emulsion (step d).

[0254] Cosmetic process

[0255] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in a process for caring for or making up keratin materials, and in particular the skin or hair.

[0256] The cosmetic composition can be presented in the form of a lotion or cream, or in solid form in a stick or poured into a pot.

[0257] The cosmetic composition may be in the form of a rinse-out or leave-in hair composition, in particular for washing, caring for and / or conditioning the hair.

[0258] In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be in the form of a liquid foundation at 20°C. This is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The aqueous phase content is preferably 35 to 45% by weight, more preferably 40 to 45% by weight. The stabilizing particles used are preferably bentonite particles, optionally in combination with kaolin particles or starch particles, in particular sodium starch octenylsuccinate. The total content of stabilizing particles in the composition is preferably 0.4 to 5%, more preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight. The fatty phase may comprise a mixture of alkanes. The aqueous phase may comprise a mixture of water and glycol. The composition may comprise one or more rheology agents.The composition may comprise one or more pigments, preferably inorganic, for example iron oxide (which may have a hydrophobic surface treatment), preferably in a content of 5 to 30%, more preferably in a content of 10 to 20% by weight.

[0259] EXAMPLES

[0260] Example 1 - raw materials

[0261] Various compositions have been prepared from the raw materials below.

[0262] The stabilizing particles used are listed in the table below:

[0263] Table 1

[0264] AM, AR, AT, AQ, M1, W, K, SM and B particles are preferred.

[0265] The size distribution of the stabilizer particles was measured with a Mastersizer 3000 particle size analyzer (Malvers, Instruments, UK). After dispersing the stabilizer particles in water for a similar stirring time and speed as the corresponding emulsions, the measurements were carried out wet in a Hydro 3000 liquid cell. The measurements were carried out at room temperature and in triplicate. The results were interpreted with a Fraunhofer approximation. Two different fatty phases were used:

[0266] - a C15-C19 alkane oil, non-polar and branched, Emogreen™ L15 supplied by SEPPIC (France), rated A.

[0267] - a triglyceride ester whose acids are caprylic acid and capric acid, Miglyol® 812 N supplied by IOI Oleochemicals (Germany), noted TG.

[0268] The aqueous phase used is the same in all compositions and consists of a mixture:

[0269] - deionized purified water treated by the ELGA PURELAB® Chorus device supplied by Velio Environment (France); - potassium sorbate at a content of 2.6 g / L, RonaCare® supplied by Merck (Germany).

[0270] Example 2 - preparation of emulsions and characterization

[0271] The protocol for emulsification is based on the protocol of the article Huc-Mathis et al., One-step High Internal Phase Pickering Emulsions stabilized by uncracked micronized orange pomace, IFSET, 2022 79:103029.

[0272] The duration of the process as well as the speed were adjusted according to the particles used.

[0273] The preparation of the emulsion is done at room temperature and includes two steps:

[0274] - a first step of dispersing the stabilizing particles in one of the phases, generally the fatty phase. This step is carried out using a single-gap rotor-stator type emulsifier homogenizer;

[0275] - a second step of adding the second phase in one go using the same equipment.

[0276] The device used is a rotor-stator type emulsifier homogenizer Ultra-Turrax (T 25, IKA, Labortechnik, Germany) equipped with an S 25 N rod.

[0277] All dispersions were made in the fatty phase, except for bentonite dispersed in the aqueous phase.

[0278] The first dispersion step was carried out for a duration of 3 minutes (min) and at a stirring speed of 10,000 rpm.

[0279] After adding the second phase, various mixing protocols were used:

[0280] - A : 4000 rpm (2 min) + 10000 rpm (3 min) + 12000 rpm (2 min) ;

[0281] - B : 3000 rpm (2 min) + 10000 rpm (3 min) + 12000 rpm (2 min) ;

[0282] - C : 4000 rpm (1 min) + 6000 rpm (1 min) + 10000 rpm (3 min) + 12000 rpm (2 min) ;

[0283] - D : 3000 rpm (2 min) + 8000 rpm (2 min) ;

[0284] - E : 10000 rpm (3 min) + 12000 rpm (2 min) ;

[0285] - F : 3000 rpm (1 min) + 10000 rpm (3 min) + 12000 rpm (2 min) ;

[0286] - G : 3000 rpm (0,5 min) + 10000 rpm (3 min) + 12000 rpm (2 min) ;

[0287] - H : 3000 rpm (1 min) + 5000 rpm (1 min) + 7000 rpm (1 min) +

[0288] 10000 rpm (1 min) ;

[0289] - I : 6000 rpm (1 min) + 10000 rpm (3 min) ;

[0290] - J : 3000 rpm (10 min) ; - K : 3000 rpm (5 min) + 6000 rpm (1 min) + 8000 rpm (1 min) + 10000 rpm (3 min) + 12000 rpm (2 min) ;

[0291] - M: 3000 rpm (5 mins) + 10000 rpm (5 mins) + 12000 rpm (2 mins).

[0292] The emulsions were stored for 14 days after preparation.

[0293] For each emulsion, a measurement of the backscattering profile was carried out using a Turbiscan LAB® (Formulaction, France). The samples were scanned just after emulsification (tO) and after 14 days of storage (t14), in order to calculate the ABS parameter. The microstructure of the emulsions was observed at x10, x20, x40 and x50 magnification under an Axio Imager A1 optical microscope (Carl Zeiss Microsopy, Germany). Below, the volume median diameter Dv50 of the drops at tO determined from these images is given.

[0294] The pH of the emulsions was measured with a Seven Easy pH meter (Mettler Toledo, Switzerland) equipped with an Inlad® Viscous electrode (Mettler Toledo, Switzerland).

[0295] The results are reported in the table below.

[0296] Table 2 Results :

[0297] All emulsions are oil-in-water type, except those obtained with micronized rice wax (W), which are water-in-oil type.

[0298] The ND designation designates macro-drops, visible to the naked eye, whose median size is not measured here.

[0299] The stability of emulsions is characterized as follows:

[0300] - ABS between -50 and -10, or between +15 and +30: the emulsion shows reversible creaming / sedimentation or limited coalescence of the dispersed phase after 14 days.

[0301] - ABS between -10 and -5 or between +5 and +15: the emulsion is stable, visually quite homogeneous with the presence of visible drops.

[0302] - ABS between -5 and +5: the emulsion is very stable, visually homogeneous.

[0303] Surprisingly, particles O, K, SM and B were found to have the best stability results after 14 days.

[0304] Example 3 - Cosmetic compositions according to the invention

[0305] The previously tested O and B particles are used to prepare compositions according to the invention. The fatty phase consists of a vegetable oil, and the aqueous phase comprises in particular a mixture of water and glycol.

[0306] Formula 1 using bentonite (B) as stabilizing particles:

[0307] Formula 1 below uses particles B from tests 7 and 8 of the previous example.

[0308] The aqueous phase in which the stabilizing particles (underlined) are dispersed contains the following elements (INCI name and % expressed by weight of the final composition:

[0309] AQUA (39.55%)

[0310] BENTONITE (2.10%)

[0311] PENTYLENE GLYCOL (1.23%)

[0312] POTASSIUM SORBATE (0.12%)

[0313] CITRIC ACID (0.08%)

[0314] SODIUM CITRATE (0.02%)

[0315] The fatty phase contains the following elements (INCI name and % expressed by weight of the final composition): LIMNANTHES ALBA (MEADOWFOAM) SEED OIL (56.90%)

[0316] The emulsion is prepared at 20°C. The compounds in the aqueous phase are mixed for 3 min at 10,000 rpm (rotor-stator). The fatty phase is added to the aqueous phase. Stirring is then carried out with the rotor-stator according to the following schedule: 15 s at 3,000 rpm, then 15 s at 5,000 rpm, then 4 min 30 at 10,000 rpm.

[0317] The composition obtained is an oil-in-water emulsion, stable for more than one month at room temperature.

[0318] Formula 2 using orange pulp powder (O) as stabilizing particles

[0319] Formula 2 uses the stabilizing particles O from tests 29 and 30 of the previous example.

[0320] The aqueous phase contains the following elements (INCI name and % expressed by weight of the final composition:

[0321] AQUA (30.94%)

[0322] PENTYLENE GLYCOL (0.96%)

[0323] POTASSIUM SORBATE (0.0%)

[0324] The fatty phase, in which the stabilizing particles (underlined) are dispersed, contains the following elements (INCI name and % expressed by weight of the final composition:

[0325] LIMNANTHES ALBA (MEADOWFOAM) SEED OIL (63.4%)

[0326] CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS FRUIT POWDER (4.6%)

[0327] The emulsion is prepared hot (70°C). The compounds of the fatty phase are mixed for 3 min at 10,000 rpm (rotor-stator). The compounds of the aqueous phase are added to the fatty phase. The whole is stirred with the rotor-stator according to the following scale: 15 s at 3,000 rpm, then 15 s at 5,000 rpm, then 4 min 30 at 10,000 rpm. The emulsion is allowed to cool.

[0328] A cream-type oil-in-water emulsion is obtained, the texture of which is thickened by the presence of a pectin-type fraction from the stabilizing particles, soluble in the aqueous phase, while the particles themselves are at the water-oil interface.

[0329] The following 3-5 liquid foundation formulas in the form of oil-in-water emulsions were prepared, using particles B, AQ and K from Example 1: Table 3

[0330] The preparation of formula 3 was carried out at room temperature with stirring using a Rayneri mixer (deflocculating mobile). Preparation of the fatty phase:

[0331] - The ingredients of phase A1 were homogenized for 5 min with an Ultra-Turrax device, then phase A2 was added while stirring for 3 min with the Ultra-Turrax device). The AQ particles were added to this phase under deflocculation and the mixture was stirred for 10 minutes.

[0332] - Phase A3, previously dispersed under a low-speed magnetic stirrer, was finally added to the previous phase with the Rayneri mixer and the mixture was left stirring at 200 rpm for at least 5 min.

[0333] Preparation of the aqueous phase:

[0334] - Phase B1 was solubilized under magnetic stirring and heated to 60°C until homogenized, then allowed to return to room temperature with the Rayneri mixer. The B particles were successively added to phase B1 under stirring until homogenized, then the ingredients of the pigment phase B3 were added under deflocculator for 5 minutes. The phase B thus prepared was mixed with the Ultra-Turrax apparatus for 3 minutes.

[0335] Preparation of the emulsion:

[0336] - The fatty phase was emulsified in the aqueous phase at room temperature for 15 minutes by gradually increasing the stirring to 1500 rpm. Stirring was then reduced to around 500-600 rpm and stirring continued for about 10 min.

[0337] The preparation process for Formula 4 was as follows:

[0338] Preparation of the fatty phase:

[0339] - The ingredients of phase A1 were homogenized at room temperature (5 min with the Ultra-Turrax device) then phase A2 was added (3 min with the Ultra-Turrax device) then phase A3 previously dispersed under low speed magnetic stirrer was added with the Rayneri mixer. Stirring was continued at 200 rpm for at least 5 min

[0340] Preparation of the aqueous phase:

[0341] - The ingredients of phase B1 were solubilized under magnetic stirring. They were heated to 60°C until homogenized, then allowed to return to room temperature with the Rayneri mixer. The B particles were added under stirring until homogenized, then the K particles under deflocculation for 10 minutes. Finally, the pigment phase B3 was added under deflocculation for 5 minutes. The aqueous phase thus prepared was homogenized with the Ultra-Turrax apparatus for 3 minutes.

[0342] Preparation of the emulsion:

[0343] - The fatty phase was emulsified in the aqueous phase at room temperature for 15 minutes, gradually increasing the stirring to 1100 rpm, then decreasing the stirring to around 500-600 rpm for 10 minutes.

[0344] The process for preparing formula 5 was as follows:

[0345] Preparation of the fatty phase:

[0346] - The ingredients of phase A1 were homogenized with the Ultra-Turrax device then phase A2 was added (3 min with the Ultra-Turrax device). Phase A3 (previously dispersed under magnetic stirrer) was added to the previous phase with the Rayneri mixer and the whole left under stirring at 200 rpm for at least 5 min.

[0347] Preparation of the aqueous phase:

[0348] - Phase B1 was solubilized under magnetic stirring and heated to 60°C until homogenized. At this phase, gelling agent B2 was added under a deflocculator at 60°C until gel formation. The gel was allowed to return to room temperature. Using the Rayneri mixer, particles B were added to this gelled phase until homogenized, then the ingredients of pigment phase B3 under a deflocculator for 5 minutes. The aqueous phase was homogenized with the Ultra-Turrax device for 3 minutes.

[0349] Preparation of the emulsion:

[0350] - The fatty phase was emulsified in the aqueous phase at room temperature for 15 minutes, gradually increasing the stirring to 1500 rpm. Stirring was then reduced to around 500-600 rpm and left to stir for about 10 min.

[0351] Foundation compositions according to formulas 3, 4 and 5 above are oil-in-water emulsions which are stable and have a texture particularly suitable for application to the skin for makeup.

[0352] The use of particles according to the invention makes it possible to exclude from these formulas the presence of surfactants to stabilize the two fatty and aqueous phases.

Claims

Claims 1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, essentially free of surfactant(s), comprising: an aqueous phase in a content less than or equal to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - a fatty phase comprising at least one oil; stabilizing particles at the interface of the aqueous and fatty phases having a median size by volume (Dv50) measured in the wet process of 1 to 80 pm, in a content of 0.05 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the aqueous phase is in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of 0.5 to 45%, preferably of 5 to 35% and even more preferably of 10 to 25%.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, in which the aqueous phase comprises one or more alcohols, advantageously chosen from: - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the stabilizing particles are: organic stabilizing particles chosen from the group consisting of: microcrystalline cellulose, a micronized vegetable wax, preferably a micronized rice wax, starch, preferably rice or corn or tapioca or quinoa starch, optionally in the form of sodium starch octenylsuccinate salt, fruit by-products, preferably apple or orange by-products, and mixtures thereof and / or; - inorganic stabilizing particles chosen from the group consisting of: diatomaceous earth, silica, mica, zinc oxide, kaolin, smectite, bentonite and mixtures thereof.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the stabilizing particles are in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of 0.1 to 20%, more preferably of 0.5 to 10%, and even more preferably of 1 to 5%.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the stabilizing particles have a median volume size Dv50 measured in the wet process of 2 to 75 pm and even more preferably of 2.5 to 50 pm.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the fatty phase comprises one or more substances chosen from hydrocarbon oils, waxes, pasty fatty compounds, and mixtures thereof, and comprising one or more substances chosen from vegetable oils, alcohol oils, ester oils, volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the fatty phase has a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of 40 to 99%, preferably of 55 to 95% and even more preferably of 60 to 90%.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in addition to the aqueous phase, from 60 to 90% by weight of fatty phase, from 0.1 to 15% by weight of particles stabilizers, and from 0 to 10% by weight of cosmetically acceptable additives; or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in addition to the aqueous phase, from 60 to 90% by weight of fatty phase, from 0.1 to 20% by weight of stabilizing particles, and from 0 to 10% by weight of cosmetically acceptable additives.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in which the aqueous phase comprises cosmetically acceptable water-soluble additives selected from gelling agents, film-forming agents, colorants, pigments, perfumes, stabilizers, preservatives, polymers, rheology agents, electrolytes, pH adjusters, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, in which the fatty phase comprises cosmetically acceptable fat-soluble additives selected from gelling agents, film-forming agents, colorants, pigments, perfumes, stabilizers, preservatives, polymers, rheology agents, electrolytes, pH adjusters, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, in which the organic or inorganic stabilizing particles comprise, preferably consist of: - microcrystalline cellulose particles having a volume median size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 60 pm, preferably of 2 to 50 pm; and / or orange co-product particles having a volume median size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 30 pm, preferably of 2 to 10 pm; and / or - micronized rice wax particles having a volume median size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 50 pm, preferably of 5 to 40 pm; and / or - silica particles having a volume median size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 30 pm, preferably of 2 to 10 pm; and / or - zinc oxide particles having a volume median size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 20 pm, preferably of 2 to 10 pm; and / or - bentonite particles having a median volume size (Dv50), measured wet, of 1 to 20 pm, preferably 1 to 10 pm.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in the form of a cosmetic cream, in particular for the care and / or conditioning of the skin.

15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in the form of a liquid foundation at 20°C.

16. Cosmetic composition according to claim 15, in which the aqueous phase content is 35 to 45% by weight, more preferably 40 to 45% by weight.

17. Cosmetic composition according to claim 15 or 16, in which the stabilizing particles are or comprise bentonite particles, optionally in association with kaolin particles or starch particles, in particular sodium starch octenylsuccinate.

18. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 15 to 17, in which the total content of stabilizing particles in the composition is from 0.4 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

19. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 15 to 18, in which the fatty phase comprises a mixture of alkanes, and / or the aqueous phase comprises a mixture of water and glycol, and / or the composition comprises one or more rheology agents, and / or the composition comprises one or more pigments, preferably inorganic, for example iron oxide, preferably in a content of 5 to 30%, more preferably in a content of 10 to 20% by weight.

20. Method for coating keratin materials, comprising the application of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19, to said keratin materials of a person.

21. Process for making up the skin, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition as defined in one of claims 15 to 19 to the skin, in particular to the skin of the face.

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