Cosmetic compositions to improve the skin's barrier function

Abstract

Cosmetic compositions to improve the skin's barrier function The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one microorganism of the Bifidobacterium genus and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites, at least one yeast extract of the Saccharomyces genus, at least one monosaccharide, preferably mannose or rhamnose, at least one gluco-oligosaccharide (GOS), at least one fructo-oligosaccharide (FOS), at least one beta-glucan and / or derivatives thereof and / or salts thereof such as sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, at least glycyrrhizic acid and / or salts thereof such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and at least hyaluronic acid and / or salts thereof. It also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for skin care, preferably for improving the barrier function, as well as a cosmetic treatment method for skin care, in particular for improving the barrier function, comprising the application of said composition.

Description

[0001] TITLE: Cosmetic compositions to improve the skin’s barrier function

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one microorganism of the Bifidobacterium genus and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites, at least one yeast extract of the Saccharomyces genus, at least one monosaccharide, preferably mannose or rhamnose, at least one gluco-oligosaccharide (GOS), at least one fructo-oligosaccharide (FOS), at least one beta-glucan and / or derivatives thereof and / or salts thereof such as sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, at least glycyrrhizic acid and / or salts thereof such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and at least hyaluronic acid and / or salts thereof. It also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for skin care, preferably for improving the barrier function, as well as a cosmetic treatment method for skin care, in particular for improving the barrier function, comprising the application of said composition.

[0003] The skin is the body’s first barrier against the external environment. The human skin is composed of several compartments, three of which cover the entire body, namely a surface compartment, the epidermis, the dermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.

[0004] The natural human epidermis is primarily composed of three types of cells which are keratinocytes, which are largely predominant, melanocytes, and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes via the specific functions thereof to the key role played by the skin in the body, particularly the role of protecting the body from external attacks, known as the "barrier function".

[0005] The epidermis is conventionally divided into a base layer of keratinocytes forming the germinative layer of the epidermis, a layer called the spinous layer composed of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three layers called stratum granulosum and finally the corneal layer (or stratum corneum) composed of a set of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes.

[0006] The cohesion of the epidermis as a hydric barrier is ensured thanks to the tight junctions between keratinocytes. These tight junctions consist of transmembrane proteins such as occludin (OCL) and are located in the stratum granulosum.

[0007] Strengthening the quality of the epidermis by favoring intracellular junctions and cohesion of the stratum corneum helps maintain epidermal functions and contributes to good hydration.

[0008] Of course, active agents have already been reported for their ability to act on the skin’s barrier function, as reported in EP 1333803 B1. However, with regard to the prior art, there remains a need to strengthen, particularly naturally, the quality of the epidermis by favoring intracellular junctions and cohesion of the stratum corneum, which are basic components for maintaining epidermal functions and good hydration.

[0009] Surprisingly, the inventors have demonstrated that a particular combination of active agents increases the expression of epidermal cohesion markers (occludin) by human keratinocytes and makes it possible to strengthen the skin barrier and improve skin hydration, improve skin radiance and softness, and prevent the appearance of fine lines.

[0010] Thus, the present invention provides novel cosmetic compositions capable of strengthening the skin barrier, more particularly by increasing the expression of epidermal cohesion markers (by improving the expression of occludin).

[0011] Summary of the invention

[0012] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one microorganism of the Bifidobacterium genus and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites, at least one yeast extract of the Saccharomyces genus, at least one monosaccharide, preferably mannose or rhamnose, at least one gluco-oligosaccharide (GOS), at least one fructo-oligosaccharide (FOS), at least one beta-glucan and / or derivatives thereof and / or salts thereof such as sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, at least glycyrrhizic acid and / or salts thereof such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and at least hyaluronic acid and / or salts thereof.

[0013] It also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for skin care, preferably for improving the barrier function.

[0014] It also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for skin care, in particular for improving the barrier function, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0015] Definitions The term "composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium" means a composition comprising a medium compatible with the skin.

[0016] The term "skin" means all of the skin of the human body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the face, in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, eye contour.

[0017] The term "at least one" means one or more, for example 1 , 2, 3, etc.

[0018] Detailed description

[0019] Microorganism of the Bifidobacterium genus and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites

[0020] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one microorganism of the Bifidobacterium genus and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites.

[0021] The microorganisms of the Bifidobacterium genus used in the composition according to the invention are generally used in the form of a lysate.

[0022] A lysate commonly denotes a material obtained upon completion of the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by a phenomenon referred to as cell lysis thus inducing the release of the intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism in question.

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the term lysate is indifferently used to refer to the entirety of the lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism in question or only a fraction thereof.

[0024] Hence, the lysate used is totally or partially formed of intracellular biological constituents and of cell wall and membrane constituents.

[0025] More specifically, it contains the cellular cytoplasmic fraction containing enzymes such as lactic acid dehydrogenase, phosphatases, phosphoketolases, transaldolases and metabolites. By way of illustration, the cell wall constituents are in particular peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptide and teichoic acid and the cell membrane constituents are composed of glycerophospholipids.

[0026] This cellular lysis can be carried out using different technologies, such as for example osmotic shock, thermal shock, by ultrasound, or under mechanical stress such as centrifugation or pressure.

[0027] More particularly, this lysate can be obtained according to the technology described in US patent 4 464 362, and particularly according to the following protocol.

[0028] The Bifidobacterium type microorganism in question is cultured anaerobically in a suitable culture medium, for example according to the conditions described in documents US 4 464 362 and EP 43 128. When the stationary phase of development is reached, the culture medium can be inactivated by pasteurization, for example at a temperature of 60 to 65 °C for 30 min. The microorganisms are then collected by a conventional separation technique, for example membrane filtration, centrifugation, and resuspended in a sterile physiological NaCI solution.

[0029] The lysate can then be obtained by ultrasound disintegration of such a medium so as to release the cytoplasmic fractions, the cell wall fragments and certain metabolism- derived products. Then all the components in their natural distribution can be stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution.

[0030] A lysate having a concentration in the region of 0.1 to 50%, in particular 1 to 20% and especially approximately 5% by weight of active substance(s) relative to the total weight of the lysate is thus obtained.

[0031] An extract can be used in different forms, in the form of a solution or in a powder form.

[0032] The microorganism belonging to the Bifidobacterium genus is more particularly chosen from among the following species: Bifidobacterium longum Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum and mixtures thereof.

[0033] The Bifidobacterium longum species is particularly suitable for the invention.

[0034] For the purposes of the invention, the term metabolite refers to any substance derived from the metabolism of the microorganisms in question according to the invention and also effective in strengthening the skin barrier and / or improving skin hydration, improving skin radiance and softness, and / or preventing the appearance of fine lines.

[0035] For the purposes of the invention, the term fraction more particularly refers to a fragment of said microorganism effective in strengthening the skin barrier and / or improving skin hydration, improving skin radiance and softness, and / or preventing the appearance of fine lines, by analogy with said entire microorganism.

[0036] The product sold under the trade name Repair Complex CLR® by K. RICHTER GmbH and which is formed of an inactivated lysate of the Bifidobacterium longum species, falls within the scope of the invention.

[0037] Said at least one microorganism of the Bifidobacterium genus and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001 % to 25% (expressed as dry weight), preferably in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% and more preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the substrate or the composition. Saccharomyces genus yeast extract

[0038] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one Saccharomyces genus yeast extract.

[0039] The yeasts can be prepared by culture in a conventional yeast culture medium (yeast extract: 10g / I, peptic peptone: 7 g / l, glucose: 20 g / l, water: QS).

[0040] An aqueous yeast extract, i.e. a yeast extract which, subject to unavoidable losses according to good manufacturing practices, contains all the water-soluble constituents of yeasts after lysis of the yeasts and removal of the membrane debris thereof, will preferably be chosen. This aqueous yeast extract will be preferably re-dissolved.

[0041] Preferably, the aqueous Saccharomyces genus yeast extract according to the invention will be prepared by solubilizing in water (preferably distilled water) whole Saccharomyces genus yeasts, by subjecting the suspension thus obtained to protein hydrolysis, by separating the soluble and insoluble phases of the solution obtained following this hydrolysis and by subjecting the soluble phase, retrieved following the previous step, to sterilization.

[0042] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous yeast extract thus obtained can then optionally be dried and provided in powder form. The extract, preferably in powder form, can also be dissolved (it will then be referred to as yeast extract in solution), in particular a hydroalcoholic solution and preferably a hydroglycolic solution (for example a solution composed of a mixture of water and pentylene glycol). In this solution, the aqueous yeast extract will preferably be added at a concentration between 0.5 and 8%, preferably between 2 and 7%, even more preferably between 3 and 5%.

[0043] The yeast extract, used in the present invention, will ultimately comprise at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, even more preferably at least 70% or at least 80% water relative to its total weight.

[0044] Advantageously, the yeast extract in solution, usable according to the present invention, will have the following features:

[0045] - It will have a pH between 5 and 8, preferably between 6 and 7.

[0046] - It will comprise between 20 and 60 g of sugars per liter of solution (g / l), preferably between 20 and 50 g / l and even more preferably between 25 and 35 g / l and / or,

[0047] - It will have a dry matter concentration between 10 and 60 g / l, preferably between 20 and 50 g / l and even more preferably between 37 and 47 g / l.

[0048] The population of whole yeasts used to prepare this aqueous yeast extract, i.e. before hydrolysis and / or sterilization, will preferably consist of 10E5 to 10E10 colony-forming units per milliliter (or cfu / ml) of aqueous yeast solution. The aqueous yeast extract will preferably have the following features:

[0049] - it will have a total nitrogen content (according to the Kjeldahl method) of 5 to 15%, preferably from 6 to 12%, even more preferably from 7 to 10% and / or,

[0050] - it will have a total free amino acid content (according to the Sorensen method) of 2 to 10%, preferably from 3 to 7%, even more preferably from 4 to 6%, and / or,

[0051] - it will have an assimilable amino nitrogen / total nitrogen ratio of 0.4 to 0.7%, preferably 0.4 to 0.6%, even more preferably 0.5 to 0.6%.

[0052] Protein hydrolysis will preferably be carried out by chemical or acid hydrolysis or by using natural yeast enzymes and it will preferably be carried out for at least 60%, preferably at least 80%, even more preferably at least 90% of the total proteins present in the yeast solution after yeast lysis.

[0053] The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases obtained following protein hydrolysis will be carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art according to the nature of the extract sought. This phase separation can for example be carried out by filtration, settling or centrifugation, filtration being the preferred means. Following this separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, the soluble phase is retrieved.

[0054] Sterilization can be carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art and in particular by sterilizing filtration. The latter will preferably be performed by using a membrane filter of which the pore size is chosen according to the size of the membrane elements to be removed. This technique is well known to those skilled in the art.

[0055] Following this sterilization step, the aqueous yeast extract obtained can be dried to provide it in powder form. This drying can also be carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by evaporation, freeze-drying or by spray-drying.

[0056] In the Saccharomyces genus, the following species may be mentioned: Saccharomyces bailii, Saccharomyces carlsbergensis, Saccharomyces uvarum, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Saccharomyces delbrueckii, Saccharomyces exiguus, Saccharomyces fermentati, Saccharomyces florentinus, Saccharomyces fragilis

[0057] Saccharomyces fructuum, Saccharomyces heterogenicus, Saccharomyces oleaginosus, Saccharomyces rosei, Saccharomyces steineri, Saccharomyces boulardii, Saccharomyces kefir, Saccharomyces kluyveri.

[0058] Preferably, a yeast of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae species is chosen. Preferably, this extract does not comprise live yeast.

[0059] An example of an extract according to the invention is sold by SILAB (B.P. 213, 19108 Brive Cedex France) under the name FIRMALIFT® GR. It is in the form of a slightly opalescent, yellow solution containing 32.0 g / l of sugars. The CAS number of this extract is 8013-01-2. Its EINECS / ELINCS number is 232-387-9. This extract is at a concentration of 4.2% in a hydroglycolic solution comprising 7.5% pentylene glycol and 88.3% water.

[0060] Preferably, said at least one yeast extract according to the invention will be used at a concentration of 0.0001 % to 5%, preferably from 0.0001% to 1% and even more preferably from 0.0004% to 0.5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Monosaccharide

[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one monosaccharide, preferably mannose or rhamnose,

[0063] The term "monosaccharide" means a mono-glycoside sugar comprising at least 5 carbon atoms of formula CX(H2O)X, where x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive, preferably x = 6. They can be D or L series, and of alpha or of beta anomer, as well as one of their salts or their solvates such as hydrates.

[0064] Generally, the monosaccharide can be used from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.002% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] In particular, within the scope of the present invention, said at least one monosaccharide of the composition is mannose.

[0066] Mannose is a monosaccharide composed of 6 carbons, and is a hexose. Its empirical formula is C6H12O6, the same as glucose, of which it is the C2 epimer (i.e. its spatial configuration is strictly the same, except for the carbon 2 substituent, where it is inverted relative to glucose).

[0067] The mannose in question according to the invention complies with the following formula (I):

[0068] [Chem 1] Of course, all of the enantiomeric forms of mannose are considered according to the invention.

[0069] Mannose can also be in solvate form (including hydrates) and in the form of a mixture of D and L stereoisomers: DL-Mannose.

[0070] According to a preferred embodiment, the Mannose monosaccharide is D-mannose of the following formula (II):

[0071] [Chem 2]

[0072] D-mannose is naturally present in plants, particularly certain fruits including cranberries, or hardwood (beech, birch).

[0073] By way of illustration of D-Mannose suitable for the invention, mention can be made in particular of D-Mannose sold by Danisco Sweeteners® or Symrise®.

[0074] Generally, the mannose monosaccharide can be used from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.002% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] In an embodiment according to the invention, said at least one monosaccharide of the composition is rhamnose.

[0076] Rhamnose is an aldose type 6-deoxyhexose, it is composed of a chain of 5 carbon elements as well as an aldehyde function. It can be classified either as a methyl-pentose or as a 6-deoxyhexose.

[0077] The rhamnose considered according to the invention has the following formula (III):

[0078] [Chem 3] Of course, all of the enantiomeric forms of rhamnose are considered according to the invention.

[0079] Rhamnose can also be in solvate form (including hydrates) and in the form of a mixture of D and L stereoisomers: DL-rhamnose.

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment, the rhamnose monosaccharide is L- rhamnose, in particular a monohydrated crystalline form, such as for example L-rhamnose monohydrate in crystalline form sold by Danisco®.

[0081] In general, the rhamnose monosaccharide can be used from

[0082] 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.002% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In an embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises a combination of mannose and rhamnose.

[0084] Gluco-oligosaccharide (GOS)

[0085] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one glucooligosaccharide.

[0086] Gluco-oligosaccharides (GOS), or oligoglucans, are oligosaccharides composed of a chain of glucose units bonded at a1-6 and which can also contain a1-2, a1-3; a1-4 bonds. They are synthesized by a transglycosylation reaction catalyzed by enzymes of the glucan- sucrase family.

[0087] Preferably, the gluco-oligosaccharides are oligosaccharides composed of a chain of glucose units bonded at a1 -6 and c -2.

[0088] Advantageously, the number of glucose units is between 2 and 10, more preferably between 4 and 6, even more preferably the number of glucose units is 4.

[0089] Furthermore, the gluco-oligosaccharides can be synthesized by glucose molecule polymerization, a reaction catalyzed by a specific glycosyltransferase type enzyme, extracted and purified from a bacterial strain of Leuconostoc mesenteroides. This reaction requires the use of an acceptor: maltose (Glucose-Glucose) but also a glucose donor: sucrose (Glucose-Fructose).

[0090] In a preferred embodiment, the gluco-oligosaccharides (GOS) are of the following formula (IV):

[0091] [Chem 4]

[0092]

[0093] Among the GOS that can be used and are commercially available, mention can be made of Bioecolia® from Solabia.

[0094] Preferably, said at least one GOS according to the invention will be used at a concentration of 0.0001% to 5%, preferably from 0.0002% to 2% and even more preferably from 0.0005% to 1% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Fructo-oligosaccharide (FOS)

[0096] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fructo- oligosaccharide (FOS).

[0097] Fructo-oligosaccharides (or FOS) also known as oligofructoses or oligofructans are short fructose chains bonded together by p 1-2 bonds.

[0098] Fructo-oligosaccharides (or FOS) comply with the general formula (V): G(F)n or G is a glucose unit, F a fructose unit and n varies from 1 to 10. [Chem 5]

[0099] Fructo-oligosaccharides (FOS) are produced: - by partial enzymatic hydrolysis of inulin (e.g. Raftilose® by Orafti-Belgium), or

[0100] - by enzymatic synthesis from sucrose (e.g. Actilight® by Beghin Meiiji industries- France), or

[0101] - by extraction from Yacon or jicama (Polymnia sonchifolia, synonym: Smallanthus sonchifolia), in particular the extraction is carried out in the absence of solvent, by cold pressing of Yacon tubers.

[0102] The FOS used in the invention can be a FOS mixture. Mention can be made in particular of GF2 + GF3 + GF4 mixtures such as Quantom FOS95 by Quantum hi-Tech or Actilight® by Beghin Meiiji industries-France, the latter corresponding to a 37% GF2, 53% GF3 and 10% GF4 mixture.

[0103] Preferably, said at least one FOS according to the invention will be used at a concentration of 0.00001 % to 1 %, preferably from 0.00002% to 0.5% and even more preferably from 0.00003% to 0.1% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] Advantageously, the [GOS / FOS] mass ratio is at least 2, preferably is between 2 and 4, more preferably between 3 and 4.

[0105] In particular, said at least one gluco-oligosaccharide (GOS), and said at least one fructooligosaccharide (FOS) can be used in the form of a mixture sold under the name Ecoskin® by Solabia.

[0106] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can further comprise at least one probiotic microorganism.

[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "probiotic micro-organism" means a live microorganism, which when consumed in adequate quantity, has a positive effect on its host’s health, "Joint FAO / WHO Expert Consultation on Evaluation of Health and Nutritional Properties of Probiotic in Food Including Powder Milk with Live Lactic Acid Bacteria, October 6, 2001", and which can in particular improve gut microbiome balance.

[0108] In the case of skin, said probiotic microorganism is a probiotic microorganism, which, when applied to the skin in adequate amounts, has a positive effect on the cosmetic qualities of the skin and mucosa.

[0109] More particularly, they are probiotic microorganisms from the lactic bacteria group, such as Lactobacilli in particular. By way of illustration of these lactic bacteria, mention can be made more particularly of Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Specific examples of probiotic microorganisms are Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus delbruckii subsp. Lactis, Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus rhamnosus (Lactobacillus GG), Lactobacillus sake, Lactococcus lactis, Streptococcus thermophilus, Lactobacillus acidophilus, L. delbrueckii, L. helveticus, L. salivarius, L. curvatus, L. plantarum, L. sakei, L. brevis, L. buchneri, L. fermentum, L. reuteri, Lactobacillus bulgaricus, Lactobacillus long urn, Lactobacillus lactis, bifidobacterium longum and mixtures thereof.

[0111] Advantageously, the probiotic microorganism is present in the composition according to the invention at a concentration between 0.00001 % and 1 % by weight, preferably between 0.00001 % and 0.1 % by weight, even more preferably between 0.00001 % and 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The microorganism(s) can be included in a composition according to the invention in a live, semi-active or inactivated, dead form.

[0113] It / they can also be included in the form of cell component fractions or in the form of metabolites. The micro-organism(s), metabolite(s) or fraction(s) can also be introduced in the form of a freeze-dried powder, culture supernatant and / or if applicable in a concentrated form.

[0114] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, these microorganisms are in inactivated form, in particular by heat or by high pressure.

[0115] The terms "in inactivated form", "in non-viable form" and "in dead form" are synonymous here.

[0116] Bacteria "in semi-active form" are bacteria that have partially or completely lost their proliferation properties.

[0117] In the case where the microorganisms are formulated in a composition in a live form, the quantity of live bacteria can vary from 103to 1015cfu / g, in particular from 105to 1015cfu / g and more particularly from 107to 1012cfu / g of bacteria per gram of composition.

[0118] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one probiotic microorganism selected from bacteria of the Lactobacillus genus, in particular Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus and mixtures thereof, in a content between 0.00001 % and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.00001 % and 0.1% by weight, even more preferably between 0.00001% and 0.01 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] In particular, said at least one gluco-oligosaccharide (GOS), and said at least one fructooligosaccharide (FOS), and said at least one probiotic microorganism can be used in the form of a mixture comprising 70% by weight of gluco-oligosaccharide (GOS), 19% by weight of Polymnia sonchifolia tuber juice (of which at least 20% by weight of FOS), 1% by weight of Lactobacillus acidophilus and Lactobacillus casei, 10% by weight of maltodextrin.

[0120] Beta-glucan and / or derivatives thereof and / or salts thereof

[0121] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one beta-glucan and / or derivatives thereof and / or salts thereof such as sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan.

[0122] The term "beta-glucan derivatives" for the purposes of the present invention means a beta-glucan having undergone chemical modifications, preferably by carboxymethylation.

[0123] The term "salt" means a salt formed by an inorganic or organic base.

[0124] As examples of base salts, mention can be made of hydroxides of alkali metal such as sodium, potassium and lithium; hydroxides of alkaline earth metal such as calcium and magnesium; hydroxides of other metals, such as aluminum and zinc. Preferably, a base salt is a sodium or magnesium salt. These compounds are well-known to those skilled in the art and are described in applications EP0819762 and US6986903.

[0125] These compounds are polysaccharides composed entirely of D-glucose bound by beta bonds.

[0126] They are produced from baker’s yeast and are water-soluble.

[0127] The beta-glucan complies with formula (VI) below:

[0128] [Chem 6]

[0129] Sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan is the sodium salt of the carboxymethyl ether of beta-glucan.

[0130] By way of illustration of beta-glucan and / or derivatives thereof and / or salts thereof suitable for the invention, mention can be made in particular of the sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan CM-Glucan Granulate® by Mibelle AG Biochemistry® or the magnesium carboxymethyl beta-glucan CM Glucan Forte® by Mibelle AG Biochemistry®. Preferably, the beta-glucan and / or derivatives thereof and / or salts thereof such as sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan according to the invention will be used at a concentration of 0.0001% to 1%, preferably from 0.0002% to 0.5% and even more preferably from 0.0003% to 0.3% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] Glycyrrhizic acid and / or salts thereof

[0132] The composition according to the invention comprises at least glycyrrhizic acid and / or salts thereof such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate.

[0133] The term "salt" means a salt formed by an inorganic or organic base. Mention can be made, as salts, of the ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid and dipotassium glycyrrhizate. Preferably, the glycyrrhizic acid salt according to the invention is dipotassium glycyrrhizate.

[0134] Glycyrrhizic acid or (3p,20p)-20-carboxy-11-oxo-30-norolean-12-en-3-yl 2-O-p-D- glucopyranuronosyl-alpha-D-glucopyranosiduronic acid is a heteroside, the aglycone (an acidic terpene) part of which is bound to a dimer sugar acid of glucuronic acid.

[0135] It complies with formula (VII) below:

[0136] [Chem 7]

[0137] Dipotassium glycyrrhizate complies with formula (VIII) below:

[0138] [Chem 8] Preferably, the glycyrrhizic acid and / or salts thereof such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate according to the invention will be used at a concentration of 0.0001% to 2%, preferably from 0.0002% to 1.5% and even more preferably from 0.0003% to 1% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] Hyaluronic acid and / or salts thereof

[0140] The composition according to the invention also comprises hyaluronic acid and / or salts thereof.

[0141] Hyaluronic acid belongs to the glycosaminoglycan (GAG) family.

[0142] GAGs are linear chains composed of the repetition of a basic diholoside always containing a hexosamine (glucosamine or galactosamine) and another sugar (glucuronic acid, iduronic acid or galactose). Glucosamine is either N-sulfated or N-acetylated. On the other hand, galactosamine is always N-acetylated. Furthermore, there may be O-bound sulfates on hexosamine, uronic acid and galactose.

[0143] Hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan (HA) is the main GAG of the dermis, the latter containing half of the body’s HA.

[0144] It is a polysaccharide of disaccharides themselves composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine, bound together by alternating beta-1 ,4 and beta-1 ,3 glycoside bonds. It plays an important role in skin hydration and elasticity.

[0145] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.35% by weight of hyaluronic acid or one of the salts thereof, or mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] As hyaluronic acid salts, mention can be made in particular of potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate.

[0147] Preferably, sodium hyaluronate will be used according to the invention.

[0148] In the composition of the invention, sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 1 ,100,000 Daltons sold by SOLIANCE under the trade name CRISTALHYAL® can particularly be used.

[0149] The hyaluronic acid or one of the salts thereof, or mixtures thereof, can be present in the composition according to the invention in a quantity of at least 0.0001% by weight (of dry matter), preferably at least 0.0002% by weight (of dry matter), relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the hyaluronic acid or one of the salts thereof, or mixtures thereof, can be present in the composition according to the invention in a quantity ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 2% by weight (of dry matter) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.0002% to 1.5% by weight (of dry matter), more preferably ranging from 0.0003% to 1 % by weight (of dry matter) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. More particularly, said physiologically acceptable medium can comprise water and / or one or more water-soluble organic solvents which can be chosen from linear or branched C1-C6 monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tertio-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propyleneglycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol (or 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), and polyethylene glycols; polyol ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether; and mixtures thereof.

[0151] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] Advantageously, the composition comprises one or more water-soluble organic solvents in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably, from 5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] Dosage forms

[0154] A cosmetic composition according to the invention is in particular applied topically.

[0155] Compositions intended for external topical administration can be aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions, of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency, of the cream type, aqueous or anhydrous gels, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of the ionic and / or nonionic type.

[0156] These compositions are prepared using routine methods.

[0157] A topical composition according to the invention can advantageously be formulated in any dosage form suitable for skin care in particular in the form of cleansing, protective, treatment or care creams for the face, or for the body, masks to apply on the skin or hair, make-up removal milks, protective or care body milks, lotions, gels or foams for skin care, such as cleansing lotions, bath compositions.

[0158] Alternatively, a topical composition according to the invention can advantageously be formulated in any dosage form suitable for hair care, in particular in the form of a hair lotion, a shampoo, in particular anti-dandruff, a conditioner, a detangler, a cream or a hair gel, a treatment lotion, an anti-hair loss lotion or gel, an antiparasitic shampoo, or a treatment shampoo, especially antiseborrheic, a scalp care product, in particular anti-irritant, anti-age, restructuring.

[0159] Adjuvants

[0160] In a known manner, the dosage forms intended for topical administration can also contain routine adjuvants in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and / or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents different from those cited above, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, fatty substances such as oils, emulsifiers, odor absorbers and dyes. The quantities of these various adjuvants are conventionally the quantities used in the field in question, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase.

[0161] As hydrophilic gelling agents usable in the composition according to the invention, mention can be made of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the trade names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) and Pemulen (INCI name: Acrylates / C 10-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) by Goodrich, or such as crosslinked sodium polyacrylate sold under the trade name Cosmedia SP by Cognis (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate); polyacrylamides; homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid such as the product sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (INCI name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltaurate); cross-linked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of an emulsion, such as those sold under the trade name SEPIGEL 305 (C.T.F.A. name: Polyacrylamide C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (C.T.F.A. name: Acrylamide I Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane I Polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC; acrylate / acrylonitrile copolymers such as HYPAN SS201 sold by Kingston; synthetic neutral polymers such as poly-N- vinylpyrrolidone; polysaccharides such as guar gum, xanthan gum and cellulose derivatives. The quantity of these polymers can range for example from 0.05 to 5% and more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] As lipophilic gelling agents, mention can be made of modified clays such as bentones, fatty acid metal salts such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or ethylcellulose and polyethylene.

[0163] When the composition according to the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 0.5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetic field. The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier can be present, in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.2 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] When the composition according to the invention is an oily gel or solution, the fatty phase can represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.

[0165] As usable oils, mention can be made for example of:

[0166] - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides or, for example the sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names "Miglyol 810", "812" and "818" by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

[0167] - esters and synthetic esters, in particular fatty acids, such as oils having formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a fatty acid including from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxy stearate, diisostearyl-malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

[0168] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 102-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile linear or cyclic silicone chain polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of a silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl- siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and

[0169] - mixtures thereof.

[0170] The term "hydrocarbon oil" in the list of oils cited above means any oil comprising mostly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0171] As emulsifiers, mention can be made of amphoteric, cationic, anionic or nonionic surfactants, used alone or in a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier.

[0172] For O / W emulsions, mention can be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylene (more specifically polyoxyethylene) fatty acid and glycerol esters; oxyalkylene fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters in particular oxyalkylene, phosphoric acid and fatty alcohol esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0173] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one ingredient selected from silicone fats such as oils, gums and silicone waxes; non-silicone fats such as oils, pastes and waxes of plant, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin; fatty acids having from 8 to 32 carbon atoms; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of formula R1COOR2 and R1OR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a fatty acid including from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms; water; C2-C6 monoalcohols; glycols selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; ketones; thickeners, emulsifiers, surfactants, gelling agents, perfumes, fillers, dyes, moisturizers, vitamins, polymers.

[0174] The quantities of these different ingredients are conventionally the quantities used in the field in question, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

[0175] Applications

[0176] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be facial or body care products.

[0177] The compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions intended for skin care.

[0178] These compositions are thus intended to be applied onto the skin. Thus, according to one of these aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, for skin care, preferably for improving the barrier function.

[0179] According to another of these aspects, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for skin care, preferably for improving the barrier function, comprising applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0180] In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a strengthening of the skin barrier, more particularly by increasing the expression of epidermal cohesion markers (by increasing the expression of occludin). The composition according to the invention can thus be used to improve skin hydration, improve skin radiance and softness, and / or prevent the appearance of fine lines.

[0181] The invention is now illustrated by the following examples.

[0182] Examples [Table 1]

[0183] Raw materials (RMs) / INCI names / Suppliers / Active substance concentration in RM

[0184] N.B.: the raw materials tested in the in vitro tests were tested by weight of raw material and not of active substance.

[0185] A composition according to the invention is exemplified in Table 2 below:

[0186] [Table 2]

[0187] Synergistic effect of the active agents of a composition according to the invention on epidermal cohesion marker expression

[0188] Different combinations of active agents are prepared as shown in Table 3 below.

[0189] [Table 3]

[0190] The results obtained illustrated in particular by Tables 4 and 5 below demonstrate that the combination of the active agents of the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain improved expression, in particular the synergistic effect of the active agents together vs the use of only some of these.

[0191] [Table 4]

[0192] [Table 5]

[0193] (1): Statistical significance threshold ns: > 0.05, Non-significant *: 0.01 to 0.05, Significant

[0194] **: 0.001 to 0.01 , Very significant

[0195] ***: < 0.001 , Extremely significant

[0196] Clinical protocol

[0197] - 26 women aged from 26 to 64 years (mean 50 years), with a TEWL (transepidermal water loss) greater than or equal to 6 g.-2.h-1on the anterior face of the forearms. - Application: a standardized application (2mg / cm2) of a composition according to the invention, the composition of which is detailed in Table 2, on a defined area of the forearm.

[0198] - Evaluation method: measurement of TEWL with a Tewameter® TM300 at TOH and T1H on treated and untreated skin.

[0199] The device is used to measure the degree of water evaporation (representing the TEWL) on the skin surface. This TEWL is a parameter used to evaluate barrier function quality.

[0200] A reduction in TEWL demonstrates the "occlusive" power of the product and its ability to retain water, which means a result of improved barrier function on the skin.

[0201] The results are presented in Table 6.

[0202] [Table 6]

[0203] Conclusion:

[0204] A statistically significant decrease in the TEWL value is observed 1h after a single application of the composition according to the invention: -27.3% compared to the initial measurements and the values obtained on the control site.

[0205] In conclusion, the single application of the composition according to the invention on the skin under the experimental conditions adopted, resulted in a statistically significant decrease in transepidermal water loss in 1 hour, showing a protective effect against water loss.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one microorganism of the Bifidobacterium genus and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites, at least one yeast extract of the Saccharomyces genus, at least one monosaccharide, preferably mannose or rhamnose, at least one gluco-oligosaccharide (GOS), at least one fructo-oligosaccharide (FOS), at least one beta-glucan and / or derivatives thereof and / or salts thereof such as sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, at least glycyrrhizic acid and / or salts thereof such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and at least hyaluronic acid and / or salts thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1 , wherein at least one microorganism of the Bifidobacterium genus and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites is used in the form of a lysate.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said at least one microorganism of the Bifidobacterium genus and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites is selected from Bifidobacterium longum Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one microorganism of the Bifidobacterium genus and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites is present at a concentration between 0.001% to 20% by dry weight, preferably between 0.001% and 15% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one yeast extract is present at a concentration between 0.0001% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one monosaccharide, preferably mannose or rhamnose, is present at a concentration from 0.0001 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.002% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one gluco-oligosaccharide (GOS) is present in the composition according to the invention at a concentration between 0.0001 % and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.0002% and 2% by weight, even more preferably between 0.0005% and 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one fructo-oligosaccharide (FOS) is present in the composition according to the invention at a concentration between 0.0001 % and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.00002% and 0.5%, even more preferably between 0.00003% and 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the [GOS / FOS] mass ratio is at least 2, preferably is between 2 and 4, more preferably between 3 and 4.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one beta-glucan and / or derivatives thereof and / or salts thereof such as sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan according to the invention will be used at a concentration of 0.0001% to 1%, preferably from 0.0002% to 0.5% and even more preferably from 0.0003% to 0.3% relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one glycyrrhizic acid and / or salts thereof such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate according to the invention will be used at a concentration of 0.0001 % to 2%, preferably from 0.0002% to 1.5% and even more preferably from 0.0003% to 1% relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims for skin care, preferably for improving the barrier function.

13. Use according to claim 12, for hydrating skin, improving skin radiance and softness, and / or preventing the appearance of fine lines.

14. Cosmetic treatment method for skin care, in particular for improving the barrier function, more particularly for moisturizing the skin, improving skin radiance and softness, and / or preventing the appearance of fine lines, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

Images